Mining gratallops llicorella clos mogador & clos manyetes

f a s are part o at. His wine end in Prior olutely in- a living leg become abs e Barbier is lities have a Clos Ren tunning qua n drinking ue whose s origin. Whe re rare cliq eir point of ry land whe able from th nking the ve distinguish s, you're dri ariety and s Manyete eme over v gador or Clo reigns supr exture Mo re, terroir x fruit, rich t es grow. He se, comple in- the vin ines of inten e) driven m These are w corella (slat over man. ened by lli 008’s have nnins, fresh ages, the 2 d velvety ta rilliant vint ines; a an g a run of b Barbier’s w . Continuin ove about nt erality r what we l d refineme d they offe ity, purity an arrived an and intens nd scores ness, depth ng notes a ny resolute As the tasti if you sto f Priorat). By the way, e context o ecial wines. ou (in th are very sp you, then y icate, these o rich for below ind s that are to ge, these makes wine dor. With a ink Priorat Clos Moga that is th me mature liciousness to drink so nce and de or need ind of elega Bordeaux velop the k test mature wines de th the grea of the Mo- sociated wi t examples normally as larly elegan evolu- s are particu r step in the lo. The 08’ nals anothe Baro robably sig that below yle which p ut more of gador st ry Estate. B extraordina tion of this Most will already be aware that René Barbier, is one yet another level of class. How much this has specifi - of the “Gratallops pioneers” behind the rebirth of cally to do with Rene Jr’s involvement we cannot be Priorat and that his Clos Mogador and Clos sure, but this highly intelligent and passionate young Manyetes are two of Spain’s greatest wines. These man has clearly brought additional energy and cre - are powerful yet stylishly elegant reds, offering ativity to his family’s Domaine. amazing consistency and class year after year. Both the reds being offered below are true to form: bril - Mining Llicorella liant examples of the complex, full bodied style of There is little dirt in Priorat. What drew Barbier to Priorat and Gratallops in particular. Clos Manyetes is the region was the abundance of old vines and the Barbier’s is the equal of Mogador in quality yet pro - remarkable terroir. The soil, except on the fringes of vides a wonderful contrast as it is made almost ex - the region, is pure slate or schist, known locally as clusively from old vine Cariñena (Carignan). Both llicorella, with virtually no topsoil. Despite the dry, wines are considerably more refined than just about rocky soils, there is no shortage of subterranean all other Priorat’s that we know of. Today, Rene’s water; so even though the vines’ roots must descend son, René Barbier Jr, is working very closely with his many metres, they can always find sufficient mois - father and we have seen an immediate impact. ture to keep them alive. They are, in essence, mining llicorella, which feeds mineral rich liquid into their "Gratallops wines are amongst the most stunning thirsty root systems. in all of Spain. The 'Gratallops pioneers' proved beyond doubt that garnacha and cariñena are perfectly capable of producing highly complex, quality wine - as long as yields are low. The re - sult is that Gratallops wines are amongst the most stunning in all of Spain: their concentration and character are outstanding as is their price." John Radford, The New Spain To visit Clos Mogador is to take your life into your In short, there has been a deal of evolution with the own hands. Rene Barbier always insists in taking you white (Nelin) and the reds seem to have obtained out for a drive through the vineyards in his old land yet another level of class. How much this has specifi - rover. But this is no gentle cruise through rolling cally to do with Rene Jr’s involvement we cannot be grassy hills as one might have in many European sure, but this highly intelligent and passionate young wine regions. Rather, this is an often terrifying roller - man has clearly brought additional energy and cre - coaster over perilously steep hills, with rocky, shift - ativity to his family’s Domaine. ing, crumbling soils slipping and sliding alarmingly under the wheels of the car while you traverse what Most will already be aware that René Barbier, is one seems like goat tracks, barely cut into the side of the of the “Gratallops pioneers” behind the rebirth of slopes and seemingly too thin to accommodate a Priorat and that his Clos Mogador and Clos car. All the while you are staring out the window at Manyetes are two of Spain’s greatest wines. These sheer drops of up to 700 metres down into the val - are powerful yet stylishly elegant reds, offering leys and crevasses below. The scenery is remarkable amazing consistency and class year after year. Both - waves of black, slate rich hills with terraced vine - the reds being offered below are true to form: bril - yards etched across their faces – although it’s hard liant examples of the complex, full bodied style of to truly appreciate with your life flashing before your Priorat and Gratallops in particular. Clos Manyetes is eyes. Barbier’s is the equal of Mogador in quality yet pro - vides a wonderful contrast as it is made almost ex - When Barbier first came to Priorat there were only clusively from old vine Cariñena (Carignan). Both 600ha (hectares) of vines. Now there are nearly wines are considerably more refined than just about three times as many, but it is still some way short of all other Priorat’s that we know of. Today, Rene’s the 5,000ha that thrived here before the region suc - son, René Barbier Jr, is working very closely with his cumbed to phylloxera in the late 1800s. Barbier’s father and we have seen an immediate impact. In vines are made to suffer in the extremely poor slate short, there has been a deal of evolution with the soil and rough climate. white (Nelin) and the reds seem to have obtained There is no irrigation, so the roots are left to search for water, only found at a depth of 25 metres, no chemicals or synthetic fertilisers are used and wild herbs and plants grow between the vines. The result of the remarkably small yields (average yield is a miniscule 9 hectolitres per hectare) is an enormous concentration of flavour and minerality. Production is extremely limited because of the terrain and the economics of making wine from small plots of very low yielding vines, partially accounting for the high prices. There is good news however: the strength of the AU dollar has resulted in significantly lower (roughly 20%) pricing for this year’s release. Barbier has 18ha of vines, but only 18,000 vines, and the average produc - tion is a tiny 600 dozen. Although the two reds below will comfort - ably age and develop for at least 10 – 20 years - vintages from the ‘90s are still drinking beautifully - the 08s will drink wonderfully young as they are so perfectly balanced.

2008 clos Manyetes Old Vine Priorat The dedication and care that goes into the production of Mogador is also lavished on Manyetes (hence Barbier sells it for a similar price). While the wine comes from a separate vineyard, it is made side by side with its sib - ling at Barbier’s Clos Mogador winery. Perhaps the biggest differences are the age of the vines and the blend of grapes: Manyetes is a more tradi - tional blend of native varieties- mostly Cariñena (Carignan), typically 70%, though as much as 90% in 2008 and the balance is Garnacha, all from 80+ year old vines. Some would argue this classic Mediterranean blend is a more authentic expression of Priorat. It is certainly more traditional. Domi - nated as it is by local varieties from ancient vines, the 2008 Manyetes of - fers immense complexity, power, spiciness, minerality and depth of flavour. 2008 Clos Mogador Priorat The old vine Carignan brings its expressive and distinctive inky, savoury The fifth wine in a strong run of vintages (2004, 2005, 2006, fruit and fresh tannins, the Garnacha providing a long, gently perfumed 2007) that have all rivalled the quality of the legendary 2001 finish. Absolutely delicious, this is a stunning, highly authentic Priorat of release. Stuart (being the lucky fellow that he is), has tasted the highest order. the wine from barrel and the bottled juice in Sydney a few “The 2008 Manyetes is predominantly Carignan (90%). It displays a strong weeks ago, notes that the 2008 is a particularly refined Mo - mineral component accompanied by savory red and black fruits, Asian gador, perhaps the most elegant and pure he has tasted. spices, and lavender. Plush on the palate with layered flavors, it contains That’s not to say it doesn’t come with all the power and enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years and will offer a drinking window depth associated with this great vineyard. These vineyards extending from 2013 to 2023.” 92 points, Jay Miller, Robert Parker's Wine are planted on very steep terraces forming a gigantic natural Advocate # 194 amphitheatre above the Siurana river, with an average alti - tude of 450 metres above sea level. The vines here are inter - 2009 Clos Mogador Nelin blanco planted with olive and fruit trees and the soil is pure René Barbier and his son produce a tiny quantity of this extraordinary tex - Llicorella (slate). There is a range of vines planted in the vine - tural, unique white. Be prepared for something completely different. The yard and the exact blend varies with the vintage. It is always grapes come from various vineyards at high altitude, close to the village of a dominant proportion of Garnacha, Cariñena, Cabernet Gratallops. Some of the Viognier (when used) is from the "Ermita" hill, just Sauvignon and Syrah. There are also small parcels of Pinot beside Alvaro Palacios' famous vineyard. The Pinot Noir – vinifed as a white Noir, Merlot and Mourvedre that can also make their way in - is from the Clos Mogador estate, and the Grenache Blanc and Marsanne to the blend. The Garnacha vines are 80+ years old while the are from a very high vineyard (over 600 metres) opposite Clos Mogador, on other varieties were planted in the 1980’s. The poor soils and the left bank of the Siurana river. Depending on the varieties and parcels, a the fact that the vineyard is dry grown, results in staggeringly mixture of stainless steel, concrete "eggs" (small egg-shaped vats) and vari - low yields of 9hl/ha. The 2008 is definitely one of the great - ous sizes of oak barrel are used for fermentation and maturation. The est Mogador’s produced to date and will comfortably live blend spends 9 months ageing on lees. Barbier’s aim is to produce a truly and evolve for 15-20 years, and most likely beyond. unique wine that reflects both the rocky, sun drenched soil of Priorat while at the same time paying homage to the historical wines of Some key points regarding elevage: The wine is ‘basket the area. It’s something he has achieved brilliantly. The un - pressed’ in an old, repurposed olive press. Ageing takes place usual grape mix and the climate of Priorat lends the wine mostly in 500 litre, French oak casks for one year with rack - enormous concentration and texture, while the extraordi - ing by gravity every three months. The Syrah is aged in vat to nary slate (llicorella) soils give a tangy freshness, especially maintain the lively fresh fruit flavours. After blending, the on the finish. It is a delicious, intriguing wine that almost wine spends the second winter in vat. No stainless steel is defies a tasting note. To describe it as tasting like the bas - used here, only fibreglass and wooden vats. The doors of the tard offspring of a Chateauneuf Blanc and a mineral cellar are kept open in winter to encourage the precipitation white Burgundy doesn’t quite do it justice! of tartrates. Unfined and unfiltered, the wine is bottled in the “Clos Mogador’s 2009 Nelin is a unique blend of 50% spring or autumn of the second year after the harvest. Garnacha Blanca with the remaining half a mix of “The red wines begin with the flagship 2008 Clos Mogador. It Pinot Noir Blanc, Macabeo, Marsanne, Roussanne, is made up of 40% Garnacha, 20% Carinena, with the balance Pedro Ximinez, and Escanyo Velles. It is a lovely offer - Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Dense purple in color, it ing that as it opens in the glass displays floral notes, sports an expansive bouquet of liquid minerality, wood baking spices, mineral, melon, and a hint of honey - smoke, game, Asian spices, truffle, and blackberry. Opulent suckle. Ripe and concentrated on the palate, it has im - on the palate with layered fruit and precision balance, this peccable balance, excellent volume, and a seamless loaded Priorat provides a drinking window extending from finish. Enjoy it over the next 5-6 years.” 91 points, Jay 2013 to 2023. ” 96 points Jay Miller, Robert Parker's Wine Miller, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate # 194 Advocate # 194 back vintages all wines listed are limited in 2004 Clos Manyetes, Priorat availability. please Clos Manyetes is owned by Rene Barbier of Clos Mogador. The 2004 Manyetes offers an expressive but brooding aromatic profile with mineral, contact you smoke, blueberry, and black currant liqueur. Larger in scale than the 2003, account manager with more mouth-filling fruit, it is beautifully balanced and nearly seamless. or the office for There is tannin to lose but it can barely be noticed. Give this top effort 2-3 pricing and cur - years to evolve and drink it through 2017." 93/100, ‘Outstanding’, Robert rent availability. Parker's Wine Advocate

2006 Clos Manyetes, Priorat NATIONAL "The saturated purple 2006 Clos Manyetes is composed of 65% Carinena, Robert Walters 0405 282 415 Email: [email protected] 25% Garnatxa, and the balance Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It offers up a superb aromatic array of liquid minerality, lavender, underbrush, cinnamon, VIC black cherry, and blueberry muffin. Full-bodied, rich, and extracted, the wine Bertie Stevens 0424 198 532 has great depth, opulence, and impeccable balance. This first-class effort will Email: [email protected] unfold for several more years and have a drinking window extending from 2014 to 2030." 94/100 Jay Miller, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Georgia Roberts 0417 339 362 Email: [email protected] 2007 Clos Manyetes, Priorat "Clos Manyete's purple-colored 2007 Manyetes is a blend of 70% Carinena, Nicole Wasylkowski 0429 021 561 25% Garnacha, and 5% Syrah. It offers up a sophisticated and stylish bou - Email:[email protected] quet of mineral, Asian spices, incense, underbrush, plum and black cherry. NSW On the palate it is dense, full-bodied, complex, and rich with savory black Ian Barr 0438 002 639 and blue fruit flavors. Impeccably balanced and lengthy, it will continue to Email: [email protected] evolve for another 3-4 years and offer a drinking window extending from 2014 to 2027. " 93/100. Jay Miller, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Clara Davidson 0468 940 897 Email: [email protected] 2006 Clos Mogador Priorat "The opaque purple-colored 2006 Clos Mogador has an enticing nose of pain Stuart Northey 0404 802 304 grille, pencil lead, truffle, incense, black cherry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, Email: [email protected] dense, and layered on the palate, it has loads of succulent black fruit, spice ACT/NSW SOUTH COAST box, ripe tannin, impeccable balance, and a lengthy, pure finish. Give it 5-7 years of additional cellaring and drink it from 2015 to 2026." Peter Bell 0402 081 650 95/100. Jay Miller, Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate Email: [email protected]

2007 Clos Mogador Priorat QUEENSLAND/NORTHERN NSW The flagship, the 2007 Clos Mogador is made up of 40% Garnacha, 20% Carinena, 20% Syrah, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is purple/black-col - Graeme Bates 0408 312 266 ored with a sensational bouquet of mineral, truffle, espresso, black cherry, Email: [email protected] blueberry, and licorice. Dense and Reubenesque on the palate, it has great concentration, loads of savory fruit, impeccable balance, and several years Matt Hannon 0406 628 400 of aging potential. Accessible now, this lengthy offering will be at its best Email: [email protected] from 2013 to 2027. It is one of the stars of the vintage in Priorat. Drink: 2013 WESTERN AUSTRALIA - 2027.” 96/100. Jay Miller, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 1300 610 919 “Glass-staining purple. Explosively perfumed aromas of blackberry, cherry- Email: [email protected] cola, candied licorice and black cardamom, with a smoky mineral undertone and a hint of fruitcake. Lush, decadent dark fruit flavors show a liqueur-like HEAD OFFICE/ORDERS density but don't come off as heavy thanks to slow-mounting minerality and a touch of spicy black pepper. There's nothing shy about this, and while 1300 610 919 there's the ripeness and weight that I expect from this wine, there's also a Email: [email protected] brightness that bodes well for aging.” 93/100, Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar BIBENDUM WINE Co.