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Mining Gratallops Llicorella Clos Mogador & Clos Manyetes

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Mining Gratallops Llicorella Clos Mogador & Clos Manyetes Mini ng grata ll llops icorella clos m ogador & clos manyetes Rene Barbier is a living legend in Priorat. His wines are part of a rare clique whose stunning qualities have become absolutely in- distinguishable from their point of origin. When drinking a Clos Mogador or Clos Manyetes, you're drinking the very land where the vines grow. Here, terroir reigns supreme over variety and over man. These are wines of intense, complex fruit, rich texture and velvety tannins, freshened by llicorella (slate) driven min- erality. Continuing a run of brilliant vintages, the 2008’s have arrived and they offer what we love about Barbier’s wines; a stony resoluteness, depth and intensity, purity and refinement (in the context of Priorat). As the tasting notes and scores below indicate, these are very special wines. By the way, if you think Priorat makes wines that are too rich for you, then you need to drink some mature Clos Mogador. With age, these wines develop the kind of elegance and deliciousness that is normally associated with the greatest mature Bordeaux or Barolo. The 08’s are particularly elegant examples of the Mo- gador style which probably signals another step in the evolu- tion of this extraordinary Estate. But more of that below Most will already be aware that René Barbier, is one yet another level of class. How much this has specifi - of the “Gratallops pioneers” behind the rebirth of cally to do with Rene Jr’s involvement we cannot be Priorat and that his Clos Mogador and Clos sure, but this highly intelligent and passionate young Manyetes are two of Spain’s greatest wines. These man has clearly brought additional energy and cre - are powerful yet stylishly elegant reds, offering ativity to his family’s Domaine. amazing consistency and class year after year. Both the reds being offered below are true to form: bril - Mining Llicorella liant examples of the complex, full bodied style of There is little dirt in Priorat. What drew Barbier to Priorat and Gratallops in particular. Clos Manyetes is the region was the abundance of old vines and the Barbier’s is the equal of Mogador in quality yet pro - remarkable terroir. The soil, except on the fringes of vides a wonderful contrast as it is made almost ex - the region, is pure slate or schist, known locally as clusively from old vine Cariñena (Carignan). Both llicorella, with virtually no topsoil. Despite the dry, wines are considerably more refined than just about rocky soils, there is no shortage of subterranean all other Priorat’s that we know of. Today, Rene’s water; so even though the vines’ roots must descend son, René Barbier Jr, is working very closely with his many metres, they can always find sufficient mois - father and we have seen an immediate impact. ture to keep them alive. They are, in essence, mining llicorella, which feeds mineral rich liquid into their "Gratallops wines are amongst the most stunning thirsty root systems. in all of Spain. The 'Gratallops pioneers' proved beyond doubt that garnacha and cariñena are perfectly capable of producing highly complex, quality wine - as long as yields are low. The re - sult is that Gratallops wines are amongst the most stunning in all of Spain: their concentration and character are outstanding as is their price." John Radford, The New Spain To visit Clos Mogador is to take your life into your In short, there has been a deal of evolution with the own hands. Rene Barbier always insists in taking you white (Nelin) and the reds seem to have obtained out for a drive through the vineyards in his old land yet another level of class. How much this has specifi - rover. But this is no gentle cruise through rolling cally to do with Rene Jr’s involvement we cannot be grassy hills as one might have in many European sure, but this highly intelligent and passionate young wine regions. Rather, this is an often terrifying roller - man has clearly brought additional energy and cre - coaster over perilously steep hills, with rocky, shift - ativity to his family’s Domaine. ing, crumbling soils slipping and sliding alarmingly under the wheels of the car while you traverse what Most will already be aware that René Barbier, is one seems like goat tracks, barely cut into the side of the of the “Gratallops pioneers” behind the rebirth of slopes and seemingly too thin to accommodate a Priorat and that his Clos Mogador and Clos car. All the while you are staring out the window at Manyetes are two of Spain’s greatest wines. These sheer drops of up to 700 metres down into the val - are powerful yet stylishly elegant reds, offering leys and crevasses below. The scenery is remarkable amazing consistency and class year after year. Both - waves of black, slate rich hills with terraced vine - the reds being offered below are true to form: bril - yards etched across their faces – although it’s hard liant examples of the complex, full bodied style of to truly appreciate with your life flashing before your Priorat and Gratallops in particular. Clos Manyetes is eyes. Barbier’s is the equal of Mogador in quality yet pro - vides a wonderful contrast as it is made almost ex - When Barbier first came to Priorat there were only clusively from old vine Cariñena (Carignan). Both 600ha (hectares) of vines. Now there are nearly wines are considerably more refined than just about three times as many, but it is still some way short of all other Priorat’s that we know of. Today, Rene’s the 5,000ha that thrived here before the region suc - son, René Barbier Jr, is working very closely with his cumbed to phylloxera in the late 1800s. Barbier’s father and we have seen an immediate impact. In vines are made to suffer in the extremely poor slate short, there has been a deal of evolution with the soil and rough climate. white (Nelin) and the reds seem to have obtained There is no irrigation, so the roots are left to search for water, only found at a depth of 25 metres, no chemicals or synthetic fertilisers are used and wild herbs and plants grow between the vines. The result of the remarkably small yields (average yield is a miniscule 9 hectolitres per hectare) is an enormous concentration of flavour and minerality. Production is extremely limited because of the terrain and the economics of making wine from small plots of very low yielding vines, partially accounting for the high prices. There is good news however: the strength of the AU dollar has resulted in significantly lower (roughly 20%) pricing for this year’s release. Barbier has 18ha of vines, but only 18,000 vines, and the average produc - tion is a tiny 600 dozen. Although the two reds below will comfort - ably age and develop for at least 10 – 20 years - vintages from the ‘90s are still drinking beautifully - the 08s will drink wonderfully young as they are so perfectly balanced. 2008 clos Manyetes Old Vine Priorat The dedication and care that goes into the production of Mogador is also lavished on Manyetes (hence Barbier sells it for a similar price). While the wine comes from a separate vineyard, it is made side by side with its sib - ling at Barbier’s Clos Mogador winery. Perhaps the biggest differences are the age of the vines and the blend of grapes: Manyetes is a more tradi - tional blend of native varieties- mostly Cariñena (Carignan), typically 70%, though as much as 90% in 2008 and the balance is Garnacha, all from 80+ year old vines. Some would argue this classic Mediterranean blend is a more authentic expression of Priorat. It is certainly more traditional. Domi - nated as it is by local varieties from ancient vines, the 2008 Manyetes of - fers immense complexity, power, spiciness, minerality and depth of flavour. 2008 Clos Mogador Priorat The old vine Carignan brings its expressive and distinctive inky, savoury The fifth wine in a strong run of vintages (2004, 2005, 2006, fruit and fresh tannins, the Garnacha providing a long, gently perfumed 2007) that have all rivalled the quality of the legendary 2001 finish. Absolutely delicious, this is a stunning, highly authentic Priorat of release. Stuart (being the lucky fellow that he is), has tasted the highest order. the wine from barrel and the bottled juice in Sydney a few “The 2008 Manyetes is predominantly Carignan (90%). It displays a strong weeks ago, notes that the 2008 is a particularly refined Mo - mineral component accompanied by savory red and black fruits, Asian gador, perhaps the most elegant and pure he has tasted. spices, and lavender. Plush on the palate with layered flavors, it contains That’s not to say it doesn’t come with all the power and enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years and will offer a drinking window depth associated with this great vineyard. These vineyards extending from 2013 to 2023.” 92 points, Jay Miller, Robert Parker's Wine are planted on very steep terraces forming a gigantic natural Advocate # 194 amphitheatre above the Siurana river, with an average alti - tude of 450 metres above sea level. The vines here are inter - 2009 Clos Mogador Nelin blanco planted with olive and fruit trees and the soil is pure René Barbier and his son produce a tiny quantity of this extraordinary tex - Llicorella (slate). There is a range of vines planted in the vine - tural, unique white. Be prepared for something completely different. The yard and the exact blend varies with the vintage.
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