the jerusalem post . Sunday, january 21, 2018 travel trends 7 Exploring the archeological wonders of Jordan

• By NORMA MEYER nicknamed “Valley of the Moon” “Yankee Doodle Dandy” on bag- for its rippling peach-pink sands pipes in the Corinthian-columned n Jordan’s extraordinary rose- pierced by titan sandstone and gran- amphitheater near the chariot hip- red “Lost City” of Petra, I have ite peaks. Lawrence and his guerrilla podrome. just huffed up 700 zigzag- rebels made their base here in 1917- Petra, though, is the jackpot. Aban- ging stone-carved steps to the 18, and decades later director David doned in the seventh century, it was Iancient mountaintop High Place Lean filmed the cinematic classic rediscovered by a Swiss explorer in of Sacrifice with its sacred altar and in this otherworldly locale. (Plan- 1812 and became a UNESCO heri- goat blood drain. And now, along a etwise, Wadi Rum also subbed for tage site in 1985. Hidden away, to dirt trail, I rest in a rug-draped souve- Mars in the 2015 Oscar nominee The get to the ancient city, you have to nir stall while an octogenarian Bed- Martian.) trek through the dramatic narrow ouin woman – who is traditionally Near a commemorative rock carv- Siq, a nearly mile-long slot canyon clad in a long embroidered madraga ing of Lawrence’s face, we stop at a sandwiched by 24-story-high veiny dress and grew up in a cave – deftly rectangular tent woven from black rock edifices and at times only 10 strings a fragrant necklace of dried goat’s hair and occupied by hospi- feet wide. Nature-created formations cloves to sell me. table Bedouins who offer us carda- stare down in the shapes of elephants Way down below, camels with mon-and-sage tea. First, one of them and skulls. At the end, the Siq cracks tasseled bridles emit rumbling, has us stick out our forearms and open to reveal the grandstanding, dinosaurlike roars while being led rolls on a soaplike perfume. “It’s rock-whittled funerary-urn-crowned by robed Bedouin tribesmen whose gazelle innards,” Omar says after- Treasury, likely a former temple. Har- eyes are rimmed in jet-black kohl wards. Yuck. rison Ford galloped up to the fantas- liner. Other indigenous Bedouins, Most of the Bedouins I meet speak tical facade in the 1989 movie “Indi- head scarves atop their flowing only Arabic, so Omar gladly trans- ana Jones and the Last Crusade” in ringlets, strangely resemble Johnny lates. “He says, ‘You are a camel.’” search of the Holy Grail. Depp’s Jack Sparrow as they trot on A what? After dark, I return for the corny- donkeys (“you want air-conditioned “It means you are beautiful, cool “Petra by Night” ceremony. taxi?”) past monolithic, 2,000-year- because camels are beautiful with Even with my flashlight I can barely old tombs. their long eyelashes.” see as I stumble through the ghostly Mystical, mind-blowing Petra lit- Siq, lit only by hundreds of luminar- erally rocks. Around the first centu- I SIT MY hump down and enjoy ia candles, and then sit in the lumi- ry B.C., the now-extinct Nabataean the steaming sweet tea, cooked in naria-lit dirt in front of the shad- people ingeniously chiseled the cap- a charred brass kettle over a rudi- owy Treasury. Bedouins play a flute ital of their Arab empire from sheer mentary fire pit. Because Muslims and rababa string instrument before sandstone cliffs; at times 30,000 avoid alcohol, tea is a main social the big reveal – spotlights suddenly inhabitants bustled about the afflu- drink in Jordan, and you’re constant- bathe the Treasury in changing psy- ent metropolis that was a major trade ly offered a cup in friendship. (You’ll chedelic colors. stopover for incense – and spice-tot- find nonalcoholic beers and nonal- Over two days I walk 23 miles in ing camel caravans. Stretching across coholic wines on some menus, but Petra because the scenes won’t quit. harsh desert terrain (Petra’s archaeo- the rare place I hoist a glass of Cab is On the High Place of Sacrifice climb, logical park encompasses 102 square outside Petra’s gate at the 2,000-year- I smell the pungent smoke of juni- miles), the once-forgotten marvel old Cave Bar, touted as the world’s per branches, and soon a Bedouin includes intricate temples; obelisks oldest saloon. Indeed there are spir- man is hawking me a morning shot honoring pagan gods; etchings of its; it’s a former Nabataean family of Arabic coffee heated by a camp- snakes, lions and eagles; cave dwell- tomb.) fire teetering on a killer-view ridge. ings; a theater; and more than 600 In Wadi Rum, I sleep inside a goat- Later, as my elderly new friend massive burial chambers, all hewed hair tent in a rustic Bedouin camp set Hammadeh strings that clover neck- from soaring rock faces that bewitch- against wind-buffeting cliffs on the lace in her ramshackle stall, she tells ingly glow in swirling hues of terra desert floor until at 4 a.m. I am awak- me through interpreter Omar how cotta, apricot and blush pink. ened by a distant muezzin’s melodic she once lived in a cave in Petra and “Petra is one of the world’s biggest call to prayer and, after that, a roost- still follows the old ways, herding mysteries,” says Omar, my Jordanian er’s shrill cock-a-doodle-doo. her sheep and goats. Without tour- guide with Exodus Travels. “There Next I wake up the entire camp ism, she frets, she has no money. “I is no record of history. And 65% of shrieking as I clumsily mount my thank God. I thank God for every- Petra is still underneath our feet, hid- ride. “Yalla, yalla,” Rashid gently thing,” she says as I buy three more den by dust.” urges his herd of five sibling camels, necklaces. For almost two weeks, I traverse meaning “Let’s go,” and soon with Petra’s most jaw-dropping high much of Jordan by bus with Exo- just one other traveler, we have the place is the Monastery, accessible by dus, an adventure company that also pre-dawn moonscape to ourselves. hoofing up nearly 1,000 Nabatae- brings us 16 intrepid voyagers to the Atop cud-chewing Aliya, I hyp- an-cut steep steps. After the path’s less-visited far reaches of this Middle notically watch the flaming sunrise last bend, this mammoth stone tem- East nation. Petra is Jordan’s primo turn the unending vastness a radi- ple – it’s 155 feet wide – magically tourist draw, but elsewhere we’re the ant gold. For 90 beyond-belief min- pops out of a remote mountainside only ones clambering over archae- utes, the only sounds are the camels’ towering over my puny presence. ological ruins of a mosaic-splashed feet softly sinking into the powdery From the Monastery, I continue Roman fort and a Muslim dynasty’s dunes and the chirping of Sinai rose- ascending a boulder-strewn trail frescoed castles in no man’s land. finches. A well-fed stray dog joins until next to a grazing gray donkey History mixes with the present – TOURISTS WALK through the narrow Siq, the same passageway traders took to enter Petra 2,000 years ago. our pack, funnily bringing up the I see a piece of scrap wood lying driving through the bleak parched (Norma Meyer/San Diego Union-Tribune/TNS) rear. against a pile of rubble and hand- desert, we pass a sprawling Syrian ref- Every day of our itinerary, we hit scrawled, “Welcome to Top of the ugee camp housing 36,000 in rows and when I say “America,” they all It’s the start of a cultural odyssey. ly quiet courtyard of Qasr Al Azraq, an archaeological treasure. I feel like World Cafe.” Up further, I reach the of white shelters; Jordan has taken warmly reply, “Welcome to Jordan,” With Exodus, I also retrace exploits the storied black basalt fortress I’m in Italy as I wander the immense “cafe,” a tattered, tented platform in about 1 million people who have often with their hands placed over of Lawrence of Arabia, the dashing where T.E. Lawrence and his Bedou- 2,000-year-old Roman city of Jerash, precariously perched over a rocky fled the war-torn nation to its north. their hearts. I’m probably welcomed British officer who gained fame in in troops plotted attacks during the dubbed the “Pompeii of the Mid- ledge in the heavens. And there, a Before joining our group, I spend 100 times – in taxis, cafes while I eat World War I for leading the legend- winter of 1917. dle East” for its well-preserved ruins 17-year-old Bedouin named Lost two days in the vibrant old quarters mezze plates of hummus and falafel, ary Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Another day, I’m bouncing in the buried by blown sand for centuries. (“because you’re always found,” he of capital Amman and clearly stick shops, hookah bars, streets lined Turks. Pre-trip, I re-watched the 1962 blanketed bed of a Bedouin-driven Cultures humorously collide: Two smiles) offers me another cup of tea, out – locals repeatedly ask where with bowing worshipers outside a Oscar-winning epic Lawrence of Ara- Toyota pickup tearing across the Bedouins, head-scarfed with red- this one with a sprig of mint. I’m from. This is a Muslim country, minaret-topped mosque. bia, so it’s eerie to stand in the grave- UNESCO-listed Wadi Rum desert, and-white checkered keffiyehs, toot – The San Diego Union-Tribune/TNS The sound of music at Kfar Blum

TALY’S TRAVEL Culinary excellence One of the highlights of staying at Pas- • By TALY SHARON toral Hotel-Kfar Blum was the food. The dining room serves high-quality buffet-style ach winter for the past 16 years, Pas- meals that are orchestrated by two talent- toral Hotel-Kfar Blum has organized ed individuals: Ohad Ivgy, the hotel chef, Ea dozen rich, musical weekends. This and Natalie Criden, who is in charge of the year, the program was expanded to include desserts, and they do an excellent job. Each cultural, literary, theatrical and culinary events meal, starting with breakfast, was rich, tasty that will take place from November to May. and beautifully presented. At breakfast we We came to for a musical winter retreat. enjoyed a variety of cold plates, salads and The weekend, called “Between Jerusalem many varieties of high-end cheeses. A hot and Berlin,” included fine concert perfor- buffet filled with shakshuka, pies, ravioli mances by Gil Shohat, Keren Hadar and and more, was followed by great pastries the Ihud Choire; a musical show with Dan served with cups of cappuccino. Dinner was Almagor, Dafna Zehavi and Eyal Haviv; and a gastronomic event. Beyond the large selec- the movie The Nahariyade with a talk by tion of salads, antipasti and cold starters, KFAR BLUM is in full bloom, and what better way to see the area than with Tiyulei Hadan, located in Kibbutz Dafna, which rents bikes of David Witzthum. the dinner buffet included a selection of all types. (Taly Sharon/Michael Sharon) small tapas appetizer plates – a standard of Pastoral upscale luxury restaurants. A decent complimentary a rest area with herbal tea. The spa offers Bike tours will follow in March. April will host a jazz This is an upscale lodge on a kibbutz set- Golan Heights Cabernet Sauvignon wine a variety of massages and facial and body Tiyulei Hadan is located on Kibbutz Dafna weekend with Alon Oleartchiik and May ting that is nothing like a regular kibbutz. was served and the dessert buffet was extrav- treatment and features Christina products. and rents bikes of all types, including chil- will be home to “Baroque Weekend” with While the setting is pastoral, the 190 hotel agantly laden with colorful macaroons, petit dren’s bikes, tandems, electric bikes and the British cultural attaché. rooms are spacious, elegant and feature fours and fruit trays. Every afternoon, a rich Choice activities club cars. They provide the maps and all the The rich program of excellent concerts, high-standard comfort amenities, includ- dessert buffet was served. We felt we were The hotel is well-situated in the center of help one needs to go on a self-guided tour shows and talks during our stay made the ing an espresso machine, LCD satellite TV, being pampered at every meal, and frankly, the Galilee Panhandle. It is also quite pop- of the area. We took bikes and helmets and weekend engaging and entertaining. I espe- refrigerator, safe-deposit box, Wi-fi and ate too much! ular with families. Along with a seasonal the complimentary map and headed out cially enjoyed Gil Shohat and Keren Hadar’s climate control. The rooms have an out- Olympic pool, Kfar Blum Kayaks are within to the Kibbutz plantations that are locat- concert. Keren’s singing was divine and Gil door sitting area that overlooks the Galilee Spa delights a walking distance at the well-known Jordan ed alongside Dafna, Dan and the Hazbani is always interesting and he plays piano and Golan Heights, so guests can enjoy the A winter’s vacation is incomplete without Promenade. Kiryat Shmona is only short rivers. A well-marked path led us alongside beautifully. 53,000 square meters of lawns and green a good massage. Pastoral Hotel-Kfar Blum’s drive away. the avocado and mandarin plantations as The people at Pastoral Hotel-Kfar Blum open-spaces. spa is small and intimate but it features On Friday morning, as part of its weekend we stopped by the rivers to rest and fresh- pay attention to the smallest details. When The hotel facilities, lobby and rooms have some unique facilities. Besides a Turkish program, the hotel offered guided tours – en up. In the summer, the riders also stop the evening’s concert ended and we went been recently refurbished with an invest- bath (hamam) and a Finnish sauna, it has a one to Biriya Forest and one to Mount Arbel. by the rivers to take a dip or have a picnic. out to the lobby, they awaited us with San- ment of some 30 million shekels, making it rain-cave, a tipping bucket and foot-reflex- We chose the Arbel trip. A bus, a guide, This route in particular is very popular with gria and chips. We got the weekend newspa- the first kibbutz hotel to get the highest A+B ology Jacuzzis. I started with the hamam and a bag with water and snack awaited us families. per on Friday, a five o’clock coffee and cake rating from Israel’s Tourism Ministry. and when it was too hot to bear, I tried the at the reception. The trip was wonderful (The Dan Trips at Kibbutz Dafna – Ofnaym. every afternoon and all the attention one We stayed in a boutique room featuring freezing tipping bucket, then ran back to and included a nice walk on which we saw co.il/ Tel: 972-54-784-4964) could hope for to make for a perfect stay. a classic country decor, a bath with Italian the hamam, making a stop at the rain cave ancient graves, a wine press and the arche- Room prices include breakfast and start tiles and a walk-in closet, where a set of robes where automatic splashing water in differ- ological remains of the Arbel Synagogue. Musical and cultural programs from NIS 1,440 during weekdays and on and slippers awaited us. Each room is named ent temperatures refreshed me as I passed As we walked down the hill toward the The musical events at Pastoral Hotel-Kfar weekends. Prices are higher on holidays and after a famous writer. Ours was named for through. Then, I went back to the hamam valley we saw caves and animals. Aviad, Blum include many musical and cultural during the musical weekends, but can often Ernest Hemingway. The room itself was and felt warm and relaxed. After a few our guide, was very knowledgeable about weekends. In February, weekends feature be found at a last-minute discount at online huge and the large bathroom – connected rounds of this, I was ready for a good mas- the topography and history of the area. We rock & roll with Yair Nizani and a “Ven- booking sites. by a wide sliding door – was furnished with a sage and chose the warm-stone variety. It’s returned just in time for lunch after a perfect ice Mask Festival” in cooperation with the Pastoral Hotel-Kfar Blum, Tel +972-4-683- French bathtub and an elliptical shower. We a specialty of the spa and it was excellent! morning. Israeli Opera, hosted by the ambassador of 6611, http://www.kfarblum-hotel.co.il/ sat in the warm tub and enjoyed the view of The spa accompanies a small, but well- The next day, we skipped yoga at the hotel Italy in Israel. Literary weekends and a “Love The writer was a guest of Kfar Blum and the Golan Heights. equipped gym in the basement, along with in favor of a self-guided bike tour. Weekend” with Bari Saharov and others Tiyulei Dan.