DOUG FORRESTER OTMC WRITINGS

1983-2002

DOUG FORRESTER’S PUBLISHED WRITINGS

SOURCED FROM THE OTMC BULLETIN AND OUTDOORS MAGAZINE

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Introduction Antony Pettinger

It is always the people in any organisation that really make a group what it is. This is especially so in the Otago Tramping and Mountaineering Club, a club that have seen many thousands of members enjoy the New Zealand (and wider) outdoors for over nine decades. Then there are some members who invariably stand out due to their enduring commitment to the club, and their ability to make a difference to the lives of all who they come in contact with. Doug Forrester was without doubt one of these people, and his presence is still strongly felt by many to this day. Doug joined the OTMC following the 1983 Bushcraft Course. At the time Doug was in his mid- forties, at a time when the median age of the club was probably somewhere in the twenties. Despite this late start to his tramping and mountaineering career, over the next 25 years or so, Doug achieved so much. From a tentative first climb of the ‘trampers peak’ Mt Maitland, between the Maitland and South Temple valleys in May 1983, to significant achievements on Mt Aspiring / Tititea, Elie De Beaumont and Mt Sefton, amongst others, Doug achieved a lot and epitomised the ‘ideal’ tramper and climber. Doug’s contribution to the tramping club and wider tramping community went much further than just trips. Doug was a strong organiser and participant at many track work parties, instructed and led on most Bushcraft courses since his own 1983 course, and introduced many aspiring trampers to the New Zealand outdoors, either as a trip leader, or as an encouraging participant. Doug’s first contribution to an OTMC publication was in the 1983 Outdoors Magazine, describing one of his early weekend trips with the OTMC. This publication contains Doug’s contributions to both the club journal ‘Outdoors’, and the monthly ‘Bulletin’. Also included are a selection of Doug’s numerous ‘letters to the Editor’ and trip blurbs. Doug had a unique writing style - you can easily hear his voice and laugh as you re-read some of his writings! Although Doug would use his pseudonym from time to time (The Phantom), or simply noted as ‘anon’, you knew straight-away it is Doug. We have included these where appropriate. In most cases, the writings are re-produced here as they originally appeared. In some cases, obvious spelling errors have been corrected, but the grammar remains as Doug wrote it. In some cases, period maps and photographs have been included. This publication is dedicated to Doug’s memory. Doug inspired and supported this compiler and countless others over many years. The compiler of this publication continues to be guided by ‘what Doug would have thought about this or that’ and hopes that some of the ideals that were a cornerstone of Doug’s time with the OTMC remain in place today and into the future.

Cover Photo: Doug Forrester self-portrait, taken on the Mt Cook Range overlooking Lake Pukaki, April 2001 (photo Doug Forrester Collection)

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Maitland – Temple May 14-15, 1983 Published in Outdoors ‘83

With Michelle Green, Stu Mathieson, Alister Metherell, Mike Drake and Doug Forrester. With the weather bods telling us it would be okay, two mini-buses headed for Ohau. After an uneventful trip we arrived at Maitland gate. We are first off, out with our gear, great stuff, a clear starry night as we waved the bus away. Right oh, who’s got the food!? Oh hell, a lot of discussion as to who would chuck our carton of food back into the mini bus. Well someone has to run to South Temple, we’re all looking at you Alister. Poor fella, we all agreed from within our sleeping bags, what a start! Away to a good start in the morning with a clear sky, keep on the east side above bush line we were told, tough going at times, on shingle and scree. Beside the Beehive it’s photo time, Stu’s not satisfied with the norm, Alister has to do a hand stand. Oh well, it’s different. Getting hot as we climb on up the valley, a quick trip down rock scree and lunch at Maitland Hut, a welcome sight. A pleasant rest in the sun was marred by Stu’s announcement from the hut book that a good cattle track goes down the Maitland valley on the west side. Straight up a valley from Maitland Hut and we are heading for a saddle, getting dark as we cross but a beaut evening compensates. Straight down into a shallow valley that leads up to Mt. Maitland and we camp. It was while we were recharging our batteries that I heard the valley was called ‘Jacobs Creek’, some connection with ‘The Robbie’ in town, I believe. Top marks to Michelle as cook at the end of a great day.

Doug Forrester, Michelle Green, Stuart Mathieson, Mike Drake on Mt Maitland, May 15, 1983 (photo Doug Forrester Collection)

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Alister sees to a good start, clear sky, and up the valley looking straight at Mt. Maitland, 7345 ft. Alister and Stu decide it’s got to be climbed and it’s about now that the novice in me really starts to surface. A tough climb, plenty of snow, nice feeling when we get there. Very clear, Mt. Aspiring one way, Mt. Cook the other. Tricky descending the west side with an ice face and snow chute to contend with. Then over a saddle and down into the Temple. With time running out the pace is on, sure is different downhill. It was by torch light that we finished a great trip, thankful we had such a tolerant bus load of trampers who waited for us. For me personally, a mighty experience. Thanks for taking me with you, team.

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

The Round Trip (Silver Peaks Classic) March 3, 1985 Published in Bulletin 433, April 1985 (Doug’s first trip as a leader)

With 11 bods revving their engines on the starting grid, and the weather forecast for a good day, all the signs were there for another successful Sunday trip. Very pleasing to see that there were three Bushcraft Instructors in the party – perhaps their presence is to see how one of their pupils are shaping up – then there is that nagging doubt that it’s possible they’re saying ‘My god, I remember him on Bushcraft, there’s no way he’ll get them back safely’. Right oh! Out of the cars and off – the racehorses are away to a flying start – just let’s follow that dust folks! First stop, Green Hut, beaut morning, no wind – great stuff. A gentle reminder from the leader not to gallop ahead seemed to no avail. (Funny, not what we were taught at Bushcraft…) The racehorses had swallowed their oats and were off. A nice leisurely pace for some up to Pulpit Rock gave most of us time to take in the views and point out to the newcomers the points of interest. A lot of trampers in the peaks this weekend – nice to see all the young people, and each group with a senior leader. The over thirties were resting beside Sentinel Rock when we passed – looked like a small town. Their Sunday trips look pretty healthy. Down Devil’s Staircase, ah huh, those racehorses don’t like the jarring on the fetlocks! Getting hotter as we take lunch at that delightful spot beside the creek at Jubilee. Next, it’s suggested A.B.C Cave via Homestead might be easier than up the back of Jubilee, so off we went – big question mark on that one!! Very hot and dry getting up to A.B.C. A welcome relief from the heat was spent in the cave. Time was marching on, so gentle reminders were necessary to get going. From now on the F.E. requirement for the trip was becoming evident. Up to The Gap and for a few of us, our thoughts were for the young fellas who so tragically lost their lives there two years ago. Along Rocky Ridge, and here comes the fog – good time for compass exercise, not so good for new chums, nothing to see. So dragging the chain now, the cooler temperatures and some muscles starting to growl. Downhill to Green Hut, a fairly brief stop here as daylight is running out, and then off for the cars. It’s on this stretch that Jenny realises that her leaders watch is an hour fast (daylight saving!). Oh heavens, and all those gentle reminders to get going!! General opinion was that it’s a great F.E. Sunday trip. Nicky, a young Scottish lass here for only a few weeks, probably has a tale or two to tell the folks back home about how far the Kiwis go on day trips. Richard Thum, John Bevin, Nicky Seagar, Ken Mason, Jenny Fallon, Ross Cocker, David Barnes, Antony Pettinger, Trevor Pullar, Stephen Cathro and Doug Forrester. P.S. Right Oh! You racehorses – on 7 December 1985, up to the barrier at Pineapple, and leave the rest to Ross and Gaye Davies and Doug Forrester. 4 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Mt Earnslaw March 1986 (Private Trip) Published in Outdoors ’85-'87

Having viewed Mount Earnslaw a couple of times, it appealed to me - what a great weekend it would be to get to the top. Fitness, experience and the weather I considered the main essentials. Fitness just requires a bit of effort. Ewan very obligingly provided the experience, and the weather was just a waiting game. Eventually, the weather bods gave us the all clear and we were off. First Mistake: I thought this was a good time to try out a new stove. Friday night, I’m outside Ewan’s flat trying to get it going, without much luck. Ewan arrives and very quickly diagnoses the wrong fuel. Second Mistake: So down to the nearest Service Station and ask for some white spirits but didn’t test it. 8:30pm and we were away, a nice clear night and a quiet road. Third Mistake: Driving through Roxburgh main street 10pm at 60kph and the outer suburb at 70kph, and not watching the rear vision. $30 thanks. I’m not starting off too good on this trip. Turn about driving and my turn again at Glenorchy. Fourth Mistake: End of road, great stuff, wake up Ewan, we’re here. Bleary eyes eventually focus, “what are we doing up the Dart?” Ewan me old mate you’re not serious. My God, we’d missed the turn-off, oh hell. 2am when we finally get there. Up in the morning and the first job is to get the stove going, no such luck, still the wrong fuel (someone up there doesn’t like us). A lot of deliberating and it’s decided to go off without a stove. A clear calm day is some consolation and it soon gets tough going, plenty of sweat and stops. Both pleased we have worked on our fitness. The views start to become impressive, 4:30pm or thereabouts when we get onto Birley Glacier and it’s freezing enough to need crampons. Through Wright Col and what a welcome sight Esquilant Bivy is. Two very weary bods shed their packs and take in the surroundings which are already making the trip worthwhile. We have a go at climbing Leary Peak to watch a promising sunset, but not to be, we had enough. Final Mistake: (Hoorah), was in not checking the water supply at the bivy, none there so two dehydrating bods had to be content with melting snow in a mug with a candle underneath. Patience is a virtue. A cold tea consisting of raw vegetables, finished off a very demanding but enjoyable day. 6am on a clear beautiful morning and we are heading for the top. Bit tricky in places and finally the top, wow, what a view, we could see forever, perfect, calm, clear and plenty of time to enjoy it. Cameras going crazy, Tutoko one way, the sea, Mount Aspiring very clear and Lake

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Wakatipu miles below us. This sure makes up for all those mistakes. It’s with great reluctance we head off back down to the bivy.

Doug Forrester on East Peak of Mt Earnslaw, March 1986 (photo Doug Forrester Collection) A very leisurely hour stripped off in the sun at the bivy and it’s time to go. Sure is easier going down. Two very satisfied guys arrived at Muddy Creek just before dark. Petrol at Glenorchy after hours (nice to know) from a very obliging Proprietor. We were sure ready for food at Queenstown. An uneventful trip home concluded a mighty weekend where I learnt plenty. Thanks Ewan, we sure had plenty of laughs.

Ewan Paterson at Esquilant Biv, March 1986 (photo Doug Forrester Collection) 6 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

The Peak May 25, 1986 Published in Bulletin 447, July 1986

Yes Sir! We made it, all the way to the top no sweat; guts and drive, that’s the name of the game. When the going gets tough, the tough keep going. A great day for the tops, sunny and calm, everywhere we looked…peaks. The Chief Guide suggested it might be beyond me. So it was with quiet determination that I led 7 keen bods away from the clubrooms. Winter temperatures as we left the creek-bed and plugged our way up the ridge, becoming a bit overgrown as we get further up the ridge, very few stops (on account of the determination to succeed). Lunch is in the sun, with ¾ of the ascent behind us. The decision is made to dump the packs to assist with the final push to the top. HOOP DE DOO, we are here, no doubt about it. A great place to be…Pulpit Rock on a Sunday. Plenty of time, a nice leisurely stroll retracing our steps down Powder Ridge. Out to the cars about 5.30pm. Thanks for coming along team. Doug Forrester for Michael Casey, Philip Jenkins, Joan Schoon, Gordon Ralph, Kelvin Leggitt and Linda Miles.

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Powder Ridge Workparty August 17, 1986 Published in Bulletin 449, September 1986

Nine keen trampers turned up on Sunday morning for my work party. A slasher each, one or two small pruning saws, a fine day and we were away. As it was the top part of Powder Ridge, it was late morning before the slashers started singing. It wasn’t easy work, on account of the springy nature of the growth, but each member’s presence helped generate enough enthusiasm to keep going. At the end of the day I guess about ¾ of the track is now cleared. Powder Ridge is a lovely walk, and 9 weary bods felt very satisfied at having contributed to its upkeep. On behalf of all those who use the Powder Ridge Track, my thanks to: Antony Pettinger, John Bevin, Doug Pagel, Piotr Swierczywki, Stephen Cathro, Kelvin Liggett, Dad and Antoinette (can outrun Dad) Cocker, and special thanks to Lands & Survey Dept. Trip Report….by Doug Forrester

Doug Forrester (L) and Ross Cocker (R), Powder Ridge Workparty, August 17, 1986 (photos Antony Pettinger)

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Ball Pass in November (Snow III) November 7-8, 1987 Published in Bulletin 462, December 1987

Without a doubt, one of the better trips into the mountains. 50 minutes’ walk on Friday night had us all at Ball Shelter, a good over-nighter. Misty in the morning but clear enough to let us see where we were going. Ten minutes out from the shelter and we cross the foundations of the old Ball Glacier Hut, a huge hut of many moons ago. Our route is on a ridge on the edge of the Ball Glacier, a big drop down to the glacier though, reasonable good going and not long into the day, through the breaking mist we start getting glimpses of the mighty Caroline Face of Mt Cook. Wow, that is quite a sight! It made for a lunch hour with a difference. Middle of the afternoon and we get a glimpse of Ball Pass in the distance. Close to white-out conditions by late afternoon but enough experience in the party to give a fairly accurate estimation of where we were when we made camp (right under the Pass, well done guys, spot on!) The sight that confronted me in the morning when I zipped open the tent is still very clear. Clear and calm, the whole of the Caroline Face, the Minarets, straight up the Tasman Glacier, Haeckel, Hamilton, Malte Brun, wowee! And right there above us, Ball Pass. The cameras were internally hemorrhaging trying to get going. So it’s up and over, beautiful views of Sefton, Hooker Valley, Hooker Glacier and Copland Pass. Tricky working our way down. A bit of rope work. A dislodged rock during a scroggin stop had Graham Hopkins with a badly torn finger and a very painful walk out. Plenty of first aid equipment available and Graham’s day ended with a lot of stitches. Across the moraine to Hooker Hut, a quick bite, and then a fast trot to the old Hermitage site. Sunday on the Ball Pas trip is a big day. Sitting on a rock in the sun make reflections and I ask Bill (of Aorangi fame) ‘What was the worst part of the trip, Bill?’ With no hesitation, ‘That bloody sun!’ My thanks to Arthur Blondell, Bill Provan and the other two tentfuls of guys that made it a great trip – Doug Forrester

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Mt Aspiring in April April 18-22, 1988 (Private Trip) Published in Outdoors ’88 - ‘89

At 7pm we left our car at the road end of the Matukituki Valley on a clear calm night. The past few days had been calm and sunny, the outlook the same. I couldn’t help but wonder could it be like that on this my third attempt at getting to the top of Mt Aspiring. The walk in was very pleasant, the conditions so good that to keep my boots dry for the climb (I hate frostbite) I wore running shoes and my feet were dry when I got to Aspiring Hut. They were to stay that way until just short of Scott Bivvy. We left Aspiring Hut fairly early (about 6) next morning. I recommend that for anyone walking from Aspiring Hut to Colin Todd Hut via Bevan Col. Fairly easy going till we got to the waterfall at the head of the West Matukituki, then it gets more difficult. Keeping to the stream seems to be the answer. We left the stream a bit early and found it slow going and a bit hair-raising. That part of the trip wouldn’t appeal much if the conditions were wet. After negotiating that section it’s just a matter of following the main stream which becomes easier as height is gained. Hector Col is at the head of the main stream one follows and half an hour before the Col watch out for cairns marking the route up through the rock face on the true left. The cairns start right opposite where the last gut on the true right before Hector Col joins the main stream. Unfortunately for us by then we were in to isolated low clouds, we missed the cairns (very easy to do), misread the directions, crossed Hector Col and got into difficulties on the other side (not to be recommended!) Late in the afternoon we accepted we were in the poo so retraced our steps back over Hector Col down and hour from the Col spent a cold night under a large rock (That bivvy bag purchase is really starting to pay off!) Another beaut clear morning and we are stuffing around looking a bit lost but eventually nut it out, (silly boys) a bit easier when it is clear. Good conditions up to Bevan Col, really great crampon conditions, then suddenly there’s Aspiring in full view, really quite spectacular. Easy going down to and across the Bonar Glacier and on a clear day the R/T aerial at the hut is easily seen, nice feeling to be there. Next morning, we left the hut about 4 am for an attempt at climbing Mt Aspiring, aware of how difficult it is to get onto The Ramp, the main access to the top. We initially tried by going straight up from the hut onto the NW ridge, got bluffed so came back down (that cost us a lot of time) and approached The Ramp from the side. We found that very steep, icy, and very time consuming and eventually ran out of time. It was with much reluctance that we had to give it away as the day was perfect. Getting down off the mountain required great care also. The next day we decided to return via the Quarterback and French Ridge to give us a round trip. Another great day on the way up to Bonar Glacier. Because we had to concentrate on where we were putting our feet we unfortunately missed seeing an Austrian climber called Jockem Weisller jump off the top of Mt Aspiring and paraglide onto the Bonar. He had hoped to land at Pearl Flat but no wind. The first time it’s been done it seems. We spotted him just

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002 before he landed. He was based at French Ridge Hut and was able to show us a way down through the Quarterdeck which was pretty badly crevassed (quite an education for me!). Another day dawned calm and clear and we loafed around the French Ridge Hut and watched Jockem float down over the hut after jumping off Mt French. He landed on Shovel Flat. Boy what a trip eh!

Doug Forrester in the vicinity of The Ramp, Mt Aspiring, April 1988 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Erebus Revisited August 6, 1988 Published in OTMC Bulletin 472, November 1988

Fourth attempt for me, just as well it was successful, as I’m getting sick of the 1 ½ hour tramp into Routeburn Flats hut on a Friday night. Weary of the slushy snow conditions and I can think of nicer things to do than being hut bound in the mountains for a weekend. But this weekend trip was different, apart from the forecast of gloom and doom. Road end and starry sky, can’t believe it, almost makes the walk in easy. Awake at 7.30am, what’s the weather, wow-wee, no clouds, no wind, this will do us. The Met boys are a mile out. No problem getting everyone cranked up with a morning like this. It’s in the basin above Falls Hut, then we are on snow that is frozen solid, what a breeze. A photograph session and then straight across, everyone is on a high now. Susan and John cannot get skis on quick enough. We set up camp (3 tents), about 20mins upstream from the inlet into Lake Harris on nice firm snow. A leisurely lunch, nice light packs and we are away. A few clouds are starting to appear, surely we couldn’t be robbed of the summit now. Working our way round to the north-west ridge of Erebus and it’s cold but good under foot. Onwards and upwards and it was 10 happy climbers who stood on top of Erebus for photos. The cloud cleared enough for a quick look around and then down we went, easy getting back to camp. Cold conditions setting up tea, August is surely winter in the mountains.

(Above) Mt Erebus…At Last! - August 6, 1988 (photo by Antony Pettinger) 12 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Again the morning dawns clear, it’s decided to abort the climb of 6274, it will keep. Conditions across the lake are still good and it’s a leisurely walk down to Falls Hut for a sit in the sun and lunch. Everyone is in good spirits, one of the better trips. Hey you met-bods, how embarrassing! Those in the conquering party – Sue Harding, Michelle Williams, Antony Pettinger, Simon Thomas, Chris Pearson, Mark Planner, Dave Woods, Arthur Blondell, John Robinson and scribe, Doug Forrester. (P.S.) Billy, sorry you were not there!!

(Above) Back at Routeburn Falls Hut, August 7, 1988 (L-R) Sue Harding, Doug Forrester, John Robinson, Chris Pearson, Simon Thomas, Arthur Blondell, Antony Pettinger (photo by Michelle Longstreth)

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Kepler Cooking Competition September 24-25, 1988 Published in Bulletin 473, December 1988

AWARD WINNING RECIPE Compiled, cooked and consumed by Doug Forrester CONSOMME….. Continetale Cock-a-leekie, carefully boil water and simmer ENTRÉE………… Edmomdee Lighta La Luncha, gently boil water and add. MAIN……………. Waitaki Spud and Porkoni Noodles Ingredients… 85g Paldo Roman 100g Waitaki Spud 1 Scoop Chippie A La Cart Boil, add garnish with Chippie A La Cart. Flambee with 10mls Pegasol A. A. and a long B-B-Q match. Serve with confidence. I would like to take the opportunity to thank the sponsors, the judges (nice people), the photographers and all those well-wishers who crowded around.

Alister Metherell, Doug Forrester, Michelle Metherell & Barry Wybrow, Iris Burn Hut, Sept 24, 1988 (photo: OTMC Archives)

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Trotters Hut Wine and Dine 1989 July 1-2, 1989 Published in Bulletin 480, August 1989

With another mid-winter wine & dine behind us I would like to thank those who came for supporting it. 26 wasn’t bad I guess, we would have liked more, perhaps next year. Special thanks to David El Presidente for organising everything. Thanks also to Peter Mason, a very handy and obliging Fella is Peter, nothing seems to be a problem. He did a ‘Crumpy’ with his ute and delivered the wood, coal and incidentals. 1am Sunday and no doubt about it he was the brightest light around, spotted him again about 11am and the light seem to have dimmed considerably. I suppose I have to thank the Chief Guide for piggybacking me through the fords, even though he and his girlfriend went a bit funny about me leaving my pack on. There’s certainly some strange people around. Trotters Hut is a good venue, it’s cheap, it’s roomy, it’s warm and it’s handy. The weather was perfect. The volleyball was of a very high standard (the best team lost). And most important of all the company was terrific. I was particularly impressed with Arthur Blondell’s ‘Broomstick on the wall’ trick. And so to next year, what about it, do we go back or look for somewhere different? We need some feedback on this so tell your committee. Also, how about a summer BBQ there, a great spot in the summer, perhaps instead of the club picnic in February, bring kids, Ma-in-Law or your local MP. Stay the night and amble off home in the morning. We need your thoughts so tell us. D.F. for all those mid-winter niters

OTMC Mid-Winter Wine & Dine, Trotters Gorge, July 2, 1988 (photo: Michelle Longstreth) 15 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Possum Hut Workparty September 3, 1989 Published in Bulletin 483, November 1989

Things didn’t look too good leading up to the day, main reason, I felt was that I had made a booboo having a work party the morning after the Annual Dinner. Come Sunday morning and we had nine keen workers, that was great! And it was a Hi Ho Hi Ho and off to work we go, a pleasant day for toil. We worked our way down to Possum Hut and then it was time for a lunch break, and a very pleasant one too. The afternoon was spent from Possum Hut to Green Hut site. We achieved what we set out to do and it was all very worthwhile. Worthy of note, one female in the party. Sharon St Clair-Newman (a tough wee chick, this one, and a real find from Bushcraft ’89), she mowed them down with the best of us. A special thanks to DoC for the use of their equipment and all the bods who gave their time to help. Stephen Cathro, John Galloway, Neville Mulholland, Mark Planner, Sharon St Clair-Newman, Chris Earhart, Les Smith and yours truly, Doug Forrester. Thanks, Team! PS say Ed, I’ve got a great idea for next year’s work party, what say we organise a team of woman also, that way they could do a batch of scones and pour tea for us poor male workers. What do you think Ed? (My comments would not be printable Doug!!.....Ed)

OTMC Possum Hut Track Workparty, September 3, 1989 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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Aspiring Revisited November 1989 (Private Trip) Published in Bulletin 485, February 1990

Well here we go again, could it be this time, I wondered, the fifth attempt, so surely. Friday 3 November and we were away on a good forecast, Andrew, Chris and myself. We took on a load of chips at Wanaka, as that seems to the thing. 6.45pm and were at the carpark, on went the 32kg of pack – Yuk. By 9.00pm we were under the stars at Shovel Flat an it’s looking good. Early start at 7.00am when on went the 32kg pack gain. We were at Scotts Biv at 9.00am and we had a quick look inside, little did we know what was in store for us lucky fellow’s. Dean Maxwell had put me right on how to avoid the slabs above the waterfall. The trick is to look for a cairn on your right and follow a cairned route just below the ridge, there is quite a good footing but not always obvious. It is much safer than traversing the slabs. Bevan Col was a great place for lunch at 1.15pm, with a beaut day Chris was rightfully impressed with Aspiring in all its glory. The adrenalin was running on 50/50 now. Yep, this is it.

Mt Aspiring from near Bevan Col, November 4, 1989 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) We roped up for the Bonar 1hr 20mins from Bevan Col to Colin Todd and what a relief as we shed the 32kg pack. That night we had a big debate as to starting time in the morning. I think this Andrew fella might like his bed, a few trips with that Blondell fella would soon change (that). Anyway with a bit of slyness the alarm accidentally goes off at 3.45am. A clear morning and slight westerlies. We roped up and out the hut by 5.00am, the adrenalin had increased by now to 75/25. After a 1½ hr. slog to the foot of the ramp and we had perfect snow conditions, with a ton of it. The schrund at the start of the ramp required a large step – last time in 17 | P a g e

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November we climbed down into it and picked a track across it, then another climb out. Into the pack went the rope and out came the second ice axe. By now the adrenalin was running fast and straight. We were away flat out like a lizard drinking. There was a bit of swirling cloud on the top so there won’t be a view.

Doug Forrester on NW Ridge of Mt Aspiring, not far from the summit, November 5, 1989 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

On the top at 9.20am, great going!! It was a bit cold, but a great feeling to finally be there. A couple of photos and we started to descend out of the cloud where the north-west ridge levels off. We started talking of lunch in the hut and a sleep in the afternoon. This all sounded pretty good to me. We descended down the ramp in reverse and with a click of the fingers we were in white out. We couldn’t even see our footprints below our feet, and then realised that we were heading off course. Andrew decided that it was time for a snowcave, things certainly were not looking rosy now and with not much gear or food I wondered if this was going to be a very long night. Our digging utensils consisted of an ice axe and me 2 litre plastic water bottle with the end cut out. By 3.00pm in the afternoon the hole started to look almost livable but at 3.30pm suddenly and briefly a gap appears in the white out and we see where we are, then it was gone, just as quickly. By 4.00pm it clears and the relief was great, however it was very steep getting on course but we are away. It was around 7.00pm when we finally arrived at the hut with the snow now very soft and hard going. Chris was relieved to see us and it was quick decision to be away first thing in the morning to complete a good trip. We opened the door the next morning to a

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002 complete whiteout, what a buggar. Then the storm hit us about 8.00am, it was a hut day. Tuesday is real rough and by 1.00pm the decision is made to go for it. We had to compass across the Bonar to Bevan Col with Andrew in charge, we could see nothing and he is spot on. The howling wind and rain kept up through the Col. Back through the slabs was a bit tricky so Andrew abseiled us down a rope length and then he picks his way down. We are now at the crossing spot above the waterfall and it is screaming. Once again we are there? Where? In the shit! We find a couple of rough bivy rocks and a bite to eat was all we had to prepare us for a long night ahead. Unfortunately, Andrew and Chris’s rock is not too good and they have a miserable night while I managed to remain dry. In the morning the river level is still the same but by lunch time Andrew is helping us get across, and a very risky crossing it was down to Scotts Biv, and then lower down to have a look at the crossing, but not a show. It was back up to Scotts Biv in very (heavy) rain and three very wet trampers spent two miserable nights there. Andrew and Chris with wet sleeping bags did not have much fun in it but at least our food was okay. They were very long nights with Andrew being especially cold at night as his sleeping bag was a sodden mess. Thursday, and Chris was studying the map. He decided we could bush-bash down the true left from Scotts Biv to the bridge across the Matukituki. Friday morning and we are extremely glad to be rid of Scotts Biv with the stream running through it. Two hours was all it took us to get to the bridge and still it was raining, but we are feeling much more secure. Radio contact at Aspiring Hut relieves everyone. Summing Up: I was away with two jolly nice guys. Andrew, a great leader, strong, confident, made good decisions. Chris, ever so cautious The Mountain: A beautiful peak The Ramp is steep in places and a no-mistake area. Once the North West Ridge is reached it is a steady climb to the top with good footing. But it is a bit of a hassle getting to it and back again. We took eight days food and two litres of fuel. We used all the fuel and had one meal left. Doug Forrester for Andrew Powell and Chris Pearson.

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Up the Mighty Milford (Drofilm) April 25-28, 1991 (Milford Backwards) Published in Bulletin 499, June 1991

A great trip. Everything went right. Fancy 4 fine days! Party Leaders: Thanks team, you sure made my job a lot easier. Lindsay Aitcheson found room in his pack for a video camera to record the occasion. Thanks Lindsay, we’ll get a few more laughs from it. John Robinson for suggesting and organising the mountain radio he took along. We didn’t have a use for it, but it was a comforting thought having it with us. It’s pretty isolated over there. Thanks, John. Elspeth Gold well, girl, you’ve done it again. Elspeth organised a Kangaroo Court for our last night (Clinton Forks) and it was a lot of fun. So it’s special thanks Elspeth, you really made that night. And your yarns, a bit of firewater and you’re magic. Darcy for your kind words on the bus to me and Brian the friendly bus driver. The guys who worked the back line and helped when required, great stuff. The out-of-town Boys Barry Wybrow, Dennis Kemp and Bill Robertson. Good to catch up with you again. That Wybrow fella’s laugh hasn’t changed much. Stu Mathieson for being our Search & Rescue contact. Most favoured section of the trip, strangely was Dore Pass. To you 35 trampers, that was a real boomer Club trip. Thanks ...... Doug F.

OTMC party on Dore Pass, April 28, 1991 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) 20 | P a g e

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The Great Moturau Cooking Competition June 15-16, 1991 Published in Bulletin 501, August 1991

It was a proud moment for me when it was announced that once again I had won an award at the Annual Cooking Competition. Actually, I won another one but not for my cooking, can’t remember the category, I was pretty hyped up with my first award. A lot of distractions, but it didn’t deter me from my task, which I did methodically in a very business-like manner. Making a lot of noise at the other end of the table was a group led by a butcher. (I think he was a butcher because I overheard someone say he was good with a knife). They seemed to spend a lot of time buttering up the judges, but that’s not how I won my award, no sir! Three years ago at the annual bash, I won an award for the fastest prepared meal. I noticed that the organisers didn’t have that class this year, further evidence that they didn’t want me hogging the prizes.

OTMC Mid-Winter Bash / Cooking Competition, Moturau Hut, June 15, 1991 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

My menu was a three-course dinner, SOUP; Fungii Moor Moor – a delightful mix of skim milk, mushroom, wheat flour, potato puree, onion puree, salt, cornflour, animal fat, flavour enhancer, soya sauce, maltodextrin and spice extracts. ENTRÉE: Edmondii li luncho – a very nourishing dish of fried noodles, starch, vegetable protein, chicken, peas, sugar, salt, shortening, curry, carrots, onions, flavours, monosodium glutamate and yeast. MAIN: Spuds Nuds – a high carbohydrate, protein and flavour enhanced dish that really got the judges talking. I hope this encourages other contestants to give forth their menus. I’m particularly keen to hear from Chris the Butcher. Until next year ...... Doug F. (I’m not surprised you were hyped up after eating that lot, Doug ...... Ed).

OTMC Mid-Winter Bash / Cooking Competition, Moturau Hut, June 15, 1991 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Ball Pass Revisited November 23-24, 1991 Published in Bulletin 505, December 1991

As a weekend trip this is a good one. For those not confident in snow this is a good one to build up that confidence, not so steep that it scares, and the alpine scenery is terrific. Snow conditions on Sunday were perfect for crampons. Sorry we weren’t able to give some self- arresting exercise on Saturday, the alpine breeze made things a little difficult, and also added some spice to the weekend. Most impressive display goes to Pete, our Social Sec. who due to a mechanical failure went through Ball Pass and down the Hooker side with one crampon. Great display of confidence for someone learning the ropes. Michelle also experienced some mechanical failure. A plug for the O.T.M.C gear hire, hire your gear from us.

OTMC Members approaching Ball Pass, November 24, 1991 (photo: Michelle Longstreth) Michelle also gets second prize, laughing at the gale that’s doing its damnedest to flatten our tent, about 3am. How the hell could anyone laugh at that? Special thanks go to Paul Bingham and Russell Godfrey who had to abort their trip to help Heidiki, who was suffering bad cramps, back to Ball Shelter. Sorry your weekend was stuffed up guys. Thanks Sharon and Michelle for staying with the tail enders and encouraging them along. Thanks leaders for your contribution to the success of the weekend. I’ve changed my mind, I think Ball Pass is an ‘FE’ trip, and that will allow for adverse weather and snow conditions. 23 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

A Solo With My Frames (Hollyford – Big Bay) April 1992 (Private Trip) Published in Bulletin 511, July 1992

I see this big “H” approaching the country, so enough of the asphalt jungle, in went 4 days food and I’m off, I hooked a ride with the club van and we were in Davy Gunn’s territory around midnight. The hut at road end, a sorry state, no windows, the thieves had taken glass and frames, plus door and mattresses. Tip-toe out in the morning and I’m on my way at 6.30am and it’s thinking about daylight. I’ve got a big day ahead of me to Demon Trail Hut. I’m wandering along on an easy track, light pack, birds singing, so am I and I’m feeling good and noting how dry the bush is. This fine weather tramping really appeals to me. Breakfast at 8am at Hidden Falls Hut, that surprises the warden who is scratching the sleep from his eyes, the track is fairly quiet. In with Uncle Toby’s and I’m off to Pyke Huts for lunch. 11.50am and it wasn’t a very good idea as the sandflies are vicious there. I find a porch unlocked so I get some peace in there. After lunch and it’s just under half an hour to Alabaster Hut. A delightful spot on the shores of Lake Alabaster. Some deer stalkers there, completely taken over the hut, good to be moving on. A very enjoyable mornings tramp to here. Can’t say the same about Alabaster to Demon Trail Hut at 5.00pm and I’d had enough tramping for the day. I enjoyed the company of four Germans for the evening.

Glimpse of Lake McKerrow, April 1992 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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7.10am and on it goes again for the dreaded Demon Trail. Strange name for a track so I did me research on it. It seems that many many years ago when they decided to name all the tracks in Fiordland the boss man gave a couple of wallys a sugar bag (no packs in those days) full of names, a few cut lunches and told them not to come back until the sack was empty. It transpired that the Demon Trail was the last one to be named, in went the hand and out came the only name left. If the DoC boys would crank up the chainsaws and lop a few beech trees on some of the points (hang him) trampers would get some beaut views of the lake and surrounds, as it is the views are looking at water through the wilderness – pretty limited really. Right oh Hokuri Hut at 11.00am and the scene changes a little here because by chance Neil Drysdale (Neil owns Martin’s Bay Huts, my next nights stop) is there with his boat and nice guy Neil offers me a free ride to the coast (four hours tramp) as he is going home. I do a bit of serious thinking and gratefully accept his offer, oh the luxury of it. Really lucky because for $3.00 he took me past his huts to the Hollyford River mouth, he looked after my pack, and I was able to wander around and have a look into Big Bay, walk back along the beach, go out leisurely around the seal colony (a really good one) and got back to Martin’s Bay Huts about 4pm. The four Germans arrived at 5pm looking weary and booked a plane to take them to Gunn’s Camp the next morning. I was offered a back flight on that plane, from Martin’s Bay around the coast and up to Milford Sound - $50 – I took it. The backpacker bus at Milford waited for me, took me to Te Anau, a hot shower at the backpackers, a few beers with the Germans in the evening and home on the bus next morning. I had planned on two long tramping days to the coast and two back out, but circumstances decided otherwise – was I a victim of circumstance?

Doug Forrester beside Martins Bay sign, April 1992 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) Summing up I don’t rave over the Hollyford track, there are better tracks. I’m pleased I finally got around to it and was able to do it in sunny and windless days. Doug Forrester 25 | P a g e

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Rob Roy for Queens Birthday May 30 – June 1, 1992 (Private Trip) Published in Bulletin 511, July 1992

Marcus Milne, Arthur Blondell, Paul Bingham and Doug Forrester, decided it was time to hit the mountains again. Snow conditions in Mt. Cook region were regarded as unsafe, so someone suggested Rob Roy (2615m). Paul and Arthur had a go at it some time ago, didn’t take a tent, bivvy bags would do. Dug a trench in the snow and settled in for the night – it rained – they don’t recommend that way now. This time ‘lady luck’ was on our side.

Mt Aspiring from Rob Roy, May 31, 1992 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) Queen’s Birthday and the forecast was for a fine weekend (for Queen’s Birthday) that’s a rare one. Friday night, five km short of the road end, and we had a warm comfortable night. No women in the party, so no problem tolerating the little creatures of the night. Hard frost and a nice clear morning. Our route was the first gut after the Rob Roy stream. The Rob Roy stream is the first swing-bridge you pass after leaving the road end heading for Aspiring Flat. We crossed the swing-bridge, forded the Rob Roy stream low down, skirted the bush till we got to the gut and then the hard work started, straight up the creek bed, slow going, and at times great care was required. Being a bit icy, it kept our interests up. About 12 Paul and I thought a bite of lunch would be nice, but the two guns didn’t agree. About 1pm Paul and I thought a bite of lunch would be a reviver, but the two guns didn’t agree. About 2pm Paul and I thought a bite of lunch was really necessary, but the two guns didn’t agree. About 3pm we had a talk to the two guns. After lunch – yes – we had lunch, close to the head of the stream and the snowline. Lots of snow now, we are looking into the Rob Roy Glacier and getting a good look 26 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002 at the High Peak, looks promising and we all agree we need a good freeze up on Saturday night for some good cramponing on to the top. About 4pm we made camp. Dug out a platform (Q. What do you call an Irishman with a spade? A. Doug!!) on the side of the hens face – at about 2000m. Paul did a great job under the difficult conditions as chef. Then into sleeping bags and the tent. In the middle of winter that’s a very long night. Warm in the tent, clear night! It should have froze hard, but it didn’t. On our way to the top 8am Sunday morning. Clear sky, but soft snow made it hard going, some big crevasses to manoeuvre, one or two snow bridges and plug-plug- plug. Once onto the summit ridge (about 1pm) and it’s good hard snow and not long to the summit. A beaut view, Aspiring right beside us, looking good. Mt. Cook in the distance, Tasman Sea, Mt. Earnslaw, Mt. Tutoko, they were all there. Tired but contented bods sitting on the summit in the sunshine, no wind, magic. Descending was a breeze, we made quick work of it.

Marcus Milne, Paul Bingham, Arthur Blondell & Doug Forrester on Rob Roy, May 31, 1992 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) Back at the base about 5pm. Some of Paul’s magic concoctions and we slept well. Breakfast as the sun’s rays hit us. Eased ourselves off the hens face, retraced our steps carefully down to the valley floor and wandered home. If the snow conditions had been firmer it would have been a great trip. Not to worry, we bagged another one. D.F. for the 4 of us

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

Mt Sefton November 1992 (Private Trip) Published in Outdoors ’90 - ‘92

November, and it’s mountain time again. The team is Barry Wybrow with Doug Forrester, and to give the climbing party a bit of international flair, Therese Egan is imported from Wellington. We kick around a few peaks and settle for Sefton, 10 400 ft. We consider walking out the Hermitage doors and straight up the east face – but nah! That doesn’t appeal. So it is to be a car trip to the West Coast and attack it from there. Barry does a good job of organising the expedition. Five days off work, yippee! Means given good weather we can have a go at Footstool as well. Friday night and we are away. Turn about driving, we arrive at the Copland Road Shelter at a crazy hour. It’s a long way from Dunedin! A few hours’ sleep, then Barry takes the car to Fox and buses back. Therese and I sort out the gear. It soon becomes obvious that this is no cake walk. The track into Welcome Flats is very dry and it’s not long before we are too. The heavy packs and very hot day soon make it hard work. Therese is a bit off colour but battles on. A very welcome sight is Welcome Flats Hut. By now we realise we have to jettison some food. Rejuvenated bodies from the hot pools, rearranged packs, and we are away at daybreak with a clear sky. At the top end of Welcome Flats, we leave the main track and go up Scotts Creek. We follow its bed to the snowline. Lots of avalanche debris, the boulders are huge, it’s very hot and its hard work. Our intention is to go round to the top of Tekano Glacier to Welcome Pass and camp there. But it is hot, the snow is soft, the bodies are tired and then the older gent in the party makes a wrong calculation on a bit of steep snow and has a fall. Doc Wybrow gets to work with repairs (if you’re ever away with him, make sure he doesn’t have a bag needle in his first aid kit; I’m sure he would like to try it out) and it’s decided to make camp on the side of the Tekano Glacier. A beaut spot looking out to the Tasman Sea, down to Welcome Flats, and across to Mt’s Cook, La Perouse, Footstool and Hicks, all looking good under a clear sky. What a magic place to dine! Packs organised, a good sleep, and first head through the zip tells us that it’s clear and calm. We’re away at daybreak, across the Tekano Glacier and through Welcome Pass. Now we’re looking at Sefton (it looks great) and on to the Douglas Glacier (beautiful and well named!) By now we are aware that the weather is too kind. Soft but stable snow is slow going. Lots of drink stops. We find a good route through the glacier and are on to the leading ridge to the top. Shed two packs. It’s still clear and calm. Therese’s altimeter tells us that we’re doing all right. Inwardly we’re feeling good. Getting a bit serious now. Can’t believe that above 10 000 ft snow is still soft. Finally the top. Hoop-de-doo! Handshakes all round and we are relaxing in the sun. Boy what a view!

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A bit of concern whether the summit is corniced prevents us peering over the edge to the Hermitage. It would have made good viewing. In retrospect we should have put on a rope and had a good squiz, women and kids first of course! Good view down the Landsborough too. Time to go, easy going down, getting quite soft, very hot. My real concern is as we cross the top of the Tekano we could set off a great, wet slab. It feels quite strange. But I’m wrong, we reach camp and have a great meal, feeling good about having achieved our main objective. Now the 3 hard days are starting to tell. A big lie in and a leisurely breakfast in the sun do wonders. It’s time to get back to the hot pools. A concern about the arm starts to surface when swelling is noticed, so we’re off. The worst bit of Scotts Creek is negotiating the waterfall up or down. Lots of caution needed here. We take to abseiling, an experience for me. Welcome Flats Hut and the hot pools. Quite a view, enhanced by a view of Sefton in the evening sun. My partners are by now very concerned about the infection and can only chant “All out!”. Me, I’m brassed off because I’ve stuffed up the Footstool attempt. So, it’s off to Whataroa Hospital, an injection, antibiotics, a night in the Whataroa boozer (nice interlude) and a leisurely trip home, 3 days early, dammit. Diagnosis, a chipped bone. Summary – Scotts Creek is hard work with heavy packs. A great climb. Firmer snow and it would be magic. We were lucky in sharing what was part of nine days of brilliant West Coast weather. Barry – good leader, good route finder, good decision maker – thanks mate. Therese – the 50 kg dynamo, kept us guys on our toes, great company girl – thanks.

Doug Forrester and Barry Wybrow on Mt Sefton, November 1992 (Aoraki / Mt Cook in background) (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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The Dusky Track February 1993 (Private Trip) Published in Bulletin 520, May 1993

Hoop de do, what a trip, I can never understand why people want to tramp in the rain, you get WET then feel miserable, then the cold sets in and the views are cancelled out, all in all the trip becomes a bit of a pain. No thanks, not for us! We had a glorious five days on the Dusky Track and it was magic, loved every minute of it. About September '92 Sharon suggested a trip into the Red Hills in the Autumn, a great idea I agreed so roll on Autumn. A few complications arose and we had to settle for the Dusky Track as an off-course substitute, a good decision. A real keen tramper in Bruce Glasier (a 1990 Bushcraft recruit), completed the party and one evening for a prep talk with a lot of yes's and minimum of no's so it was all go. Sharon takes care of the bookings at Tuatapere and at 6 pm on Friday night we are off on a seven-day Dusky Trip. Talk about go! We passengers got a real thrill on the occasions we touched the asphalt, some silly bugger suggests we shoot off the beaten track at Clinton and shoot down the back way, no one’s been that way and shortly the doubts start to surface, where do we come out, do we have to swim the Mataura. So out comes the maps. A couple of members in the party had a slice of humble pie in Mataura. Fish & Chips and humble pie, we are off across Southland to the Sausage capital on a magic night with the sun setting in golden yellow tones, someone suggested it was caused by some clown blowing up a mountain. Sausagetown at 10 pm, foo wee, hope that's not the pace for the week. A friendly welcome by one of the local business men shows that a sausage diet does wonders. There's a truckload on the way to the Social Welfare staff in Dunedin. We settle for the Tuatapere domain and fair go three huskies settling in for the night would have been embarrassed, this'll do, no it won't, yes it will! The jet boat up Lake Hauroko in calm and sunny conditions sure set the standard of the trip. By the way the boat tours owners, Helen and Val McKay are quite happy to take the car from Tuatapere to Manapouri at no charge, very kind and further examples of the results of a sausage diet. The first day’s tramp ended with a swim in the Hauroko Burn near the hut, it was an easy day and with our bathing suits draped over a matagouri bush drying out in the hot sun we washed our clothes for the next day. No smelly dirty gear for this trio. It's called the clean and green image. Day two, this is the magic day on the Dusky, soon above bushline, great views, sunny and hot, and three neat little lakes. So, it's through Ferkert Pass (I would like to find out more about this naming) [I bet you would Doug - Ed] and there is Lake Laffy and Lake Roe Hut, a great spot and ideal for lunch. Left our packs at the hut and it's 20 minutes up to Lake Roe, beautifully set

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002 amongst granite outcrops. Believe it or not, there sitting on a rock just out of the water’s edge was the Lake Roe mermaid, l was impressed, Sharon was even more interested than I was!

Lake Roe Hut, Pleasant Range, Dusky Track, February 1993 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) Back down at the hut and the topic was compasses as the two of them needed some revision, I decided to give them both a refresher course. From A to B, then a back bearing, so far so good, now we'll identify a distant object .... so I made one slight mistake, do they call me Dougie the compass man, no way - I was totally rubbished, had to live with it for days [ What else do you expect Dougie - Ed] These young people just don't understand, and so it is time to leave this magic spot, if you are planning a Dusky trip and it is good weather this would be a great rest day. Twenty minutes and we are at Lake Horizon, another gem, with spectacular views of Dusky Sound. We wander along the tops of the Pleasant Range and we're really burning up but loving it! Tarns everywhere. We start going downhill off the Pleasant Range and spy a larger than average tarn, ten minutes before bushline. This was our Shangri-La. 5 pm, we had a swim in warm water, and with our bathing suits draped over a matagouri bush drying out in the hot sun, we washed our clothes ready for the next day, no smelly dirty gear for this trio. Pitched our fly, lay in the sun, had tea, a calm beautiful evening, watched the sun set down the mouth of Dusky Sound, got a fire going, sat around and talked, TOP company, TOP day and so ended one of the nicest days tramping I have done. I'll remember it for a long time, thanks team. It's 7.15 am and we are off, Supper Cove on Dusky Sound, here we come, all we've heard is how good the fishing is. In the bush now and it's incredibly hot, it's pouring out of us, West Coast temperatures eh? We are looking at these mud patches on the track and hells teeth, thank god, it's been fine for 15 days. We are burnt out by the time we get to Supper Cove hut. 31 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002

A swim in the warm waters of Dusky Sound does wonders, and with our bathing suits draped over a matagouri bush drying out in the hot sun, we washed our clothes ready for the next day, no smelly dirty gear for this trio, and so it's fishing time, well the enthusiasm was electric. It's going to be fish for tea and there by gaining a spare meal in case things went wrong. The three of us are in the boat and there's hooks everywhere. We had macaroni for tea, one of my meals and I had slightly underdone the quantity, another rubbishing, [You should be used to that by now Doug - Ed], but you should have seen four eyes bulge when I fronted up with half a saucepan full of fresh lettuce, mushrooms, tomatoes, courgettes, carrots, the lot and as fresh as. Two more slices of humble pie thanks, starting to enjoy this!

Pleasant Range campsite, Dusky Track, February 1993 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) Next day at Supper Cove hut is our rest day and the sun is there again, we have a morning swim in the sound and - well you know the drill by now. It's now fishing time again, we fished and we fished and we fished, it's about now I want to wrap this bloody line and hooks around the dreamer we meet on the track who said ‘You've got to hide while you're baiting the hook!’ Suddenly Brucie boy catches a fish, well the excitement is overwhelming, he's out with the knife and gutting it until 6 inch spotty decides this is no place for him, so readers, picture Bruce juggling a slimy spotty while trying to keep his balance on the edge of an aluminum dingy, he lost. Spotty drifts into the deep and Sharon and I get a bit concerned because we don't know for sure whether Bruce is going after it or ending it all. What an act, wonder what he does for encores! We had rice for tea. The rest day was terrific, with a couple of swims, and the hut to ourselves was a real luxury, we felt great. Although one thing, I was very disappointed, I thought it was woman's work to do the cooking and also my shorts split up the seam at the back . . . oh ... I was so embarrassed, isn't that woman's work also? [Careful Doug! Ed]? I was given the message, sad thing this changing world. Next day is day five and it's time to retrace our steps for a few hours, but because of a shitty bit of track decided to make use of low tide and cross the tidal flats, one channel is up to our shoulders so the packs are above our heads, Sharon swims it and we get it on film, great entertainment, away we go, a bit of cloud 32 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002 about today, back past Loch Maree, a bit of danger spot, those god forsaken Namux are pretty thick. There are lots of signs of how bad the track gets with heavy rain, it floods badly. We arrive at Kintail hut at tea time so we have our swim, but this time our bathing suits don't dry on the matagouri bush because the weather is changing. During the evening we hear this funny sound on the hut roof, can't make it out but decided to wear our parka's next day anyway. Day six and things don't look so pleasant outside. Away we go in light rain and warm conditions and we are lucky to get views as we climb above bushline and look back. Shortly we are through Centre Pass which is the second time above bushline on the track. Would be great on a good day and then it's down to Upper Spey hut and no swim means the hygiene is starting to collapse. The hut to ourselves again. [ You can't complain Doug - You've had it pretty good up to now - Ed]

Wilmot Pass entry / exit to the Dusky Track, February 1993 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) Day seven and there is four hours tramping left, still raining, not complaining though because as we tramp along we see signs of what it could be like in heavy rain and I'm very mindful that this section required a bit of swimming for Rhonda, Nev the Social Sec, John the farmer and Co. In no time we are out onto the Wilmot Pass road and it's nearly all over. We joined the tourists for the trip across Manapouri, (a different world) and in the camp at Te Anau for the night, and on the tarseal track home. A great trip with lots of laughs, lots of memories. Thanks team Doug Forrester for Sharon St Clair Newman & Bruce Glasier

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Elie De Beaumont, 10225ft November 1994 (Private Trip) Published in Outdoors ’93-‘95

Elie started to appeal to me as a climb back in 1987. I think it was an alpine calendar that started the love affair. After a bit of homework on the mountain, I decided it was within my capabilities, i.e. difficult enough to provide a challenge but not so technically difficult that I couldn’t handle it. My next problem was finding someone to go with, not always easy as others have their own aspirations, and it’s not an easy mountain to get to. I eventually got Paul Bingham’s interest, and as we had climbed together before I was rapt. Paul even took some unpaid days leave so I felt pretty humble. Elie de Beaumont is situated at the head of the Tasman Glacier in Mt Cook National Park. It has a domed peak. Our base was to be the Tasman Saddle Hut, just below the Tasman Saddle. Because of the unpredictability of the weather in that area Paul and I decided it should be an 8-day trip. We agreed to fly in by Cessna ($180 each, not cheap) because Paul had first- hand knowledge of walking the mighty Tasman and didn’t want to do it both ways. I would also have this experience by the end of the journey, and it’s not enjoyable.

Tasman Saddle Hut, November 1994 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) Saturday 25: We left Dunedin 6am, clear and calm all the way to the Hermitage. Elie is first viewed from the main highway at the turnoff to Ball Shelter Road. Signed in; down to the airport and in the air by noon. The pilot knew our intentions so swooped in and gave us a close up of Elie … weeee … that was another shot of adrenalin. We landed on the glacier with 34 | P a g e

Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002 a 15-minute walk to the hut. One advantage of that was not only were our packs full but we had plastic bags of food to carry as well. We were not going to go hungry, in fact we lived well. Paul was our chief menu designer and he does it well. Two Tasmanians already in the hut (20 bunk) were also Elie enthusiasts. Two Japanese gents arrived by plane about 5:30pm also with Elie in mind. It’s going to be a busy day for the mount. Let’s get at it, so in bed by 7:30 with alarms set for 2:30. It didn’t take me long to get into Mumbo-Jumbo Land where it’s all avalanches, crevasses, broken ropes and lots of other confusion. Sunday 26: 2:30 and it’s a rush for the window – clear and a moderate wind, good one. The hut becomes a buzz of activity, 6 of us all ready to go. Out of the hut by 3:30 and on to reasonably good snow; gently rolling terrain. At the foot of the Anna Glacier by 5:00. Still dark but not long before headlamps go off. A short break, then slowly and carefully we picked our way through the crevasses of the Anna. A large crevasse looms in front as we reach the main ridge of the mountain. This crevasse goes straight across the ridge. A lot of urring and umming, scratching of our heads and of other places. The two Tasmanians decide to back off and retreat at this point, a decision made very quickly. I’m sure with a little more warning Paul and I could have talked them through the next stage. Easy to say in hindsight eh? We met up with some guys who climbed the mountain four days before us, and one big step got them across this spot, an indication of how quickly it moves. The two Japanese decide to cross it with – I’m not sure – but it takes them a long time. Paul and I decide to go down and around it and back up, where we encounter some very steep and icy climbing. The last time Paul and I were on steep ice was on Earnslaw, where I decided much to Paul’s dismay that it was good photo material and we did get a good shot. But on this occasion there is no discussion of cameras. It’s a relief to regain the summit ridge where it is very icy but comfortable to the top, reached about 8am. Twenty minutes later the Japanese join us.

Paul Bingham and Doug Forrester at Tasman Saddle Hut, November 1994 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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The views from the top of Elie are fantastic: straight down to the West Coast, Okarito Lagoon (it’s big), Whataroa River, Waiho River draining the Franz Josef Glacier, Fox and Franz Glacier neves, all the peaks south along the Main Divide to Sefton. Looking north I can’t see Ross and Pam’s place (Westport) but there seem to be hundreds of peaks. To the east I can’t remember – perhaps it was the adrenalin boost. Calm and sunny, lots of photos. A real plus is having the Japanese with us because out comes their flag. It makes a great photo. Hey Paul, you might be on the glossy cover of some Japanese climbing journal! Time to go. We are the first to leave. Wonder what they will do with that flag. Back down the steep icy patch with the Japanese following us this time. Have a little difficulty descending at times as we choose a different route trying to avoid the crevasses of the ascent. Safely down by 11:30. Paul and I are reluctant to leave the area so we sit and absorb the occasion. A great climb on a good day. Back at the hut a feed, lots to drink, and Paul tells me that I slept for two hours – getting old people up at that time of the morning! Too tired for Mumbo-Jumbo this time.

Paul Bingham (centre) and Japanese Climbers, Elie de Beaumont, November 1994 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) Back down the steep icy patch with the Japanese following us this time. Have a little difficulty descending at times as we choose a different route trying to avoid the crevasses of the ascent. Safely down by 11:30. Paul and I are reluctant to leave the area so we sit and absorb the occasion. A great climb on a good day. Back at the hut a feed, lots to drink, and Paul tells me that I slept for two hours – getting old people up at that time of the morning! Too tired for Mumbo-Jumbo this time. Monday 27: A hut day, rotten weather, suited fine, a bit tired.

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Doug Forrester and Paul Bingham, Elie de Beaumont, November 1994 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

Tuesday 28: Fine and sunny, no hurry, leave the hut at 9:30 for a climb of Hochstetter Dome 9258ft, and Mt Aylmer 8550ft. Snow a little soft, swirling cloud obscures the top of Aylmer but we have a good front pointing with a great run out. Weather clears for us and we have a great traverse of Hochstetter Dome, up one side and down the other. Hochstetter has a great leading ridge to the top with a big drop off either side – helps maintain concentration. One or two snow bridges near the top help too. As the day progresses it gets very hot so we sit around looking straight at Elie, relive the climb, have a few laughs, wander back to the hut about 6pm feeling fantastic. The evening around the hut is warm and sunny, one of those magic evenings in a mountain environment. Wednesday 29: Our intentions were to climb Mt Green 9350ft, a pyramid shape mountain with an impressive steep snow face right to the top. Looked pretty inviting so the alarm went off at 3:30. It was blowing a strong wind, a little wispy cloud on top of Green. Now the bods were a wee bit tired after Tuesday so it was easy to abandon the climb. Turned out to be a good decision. By 6:30 the weather had closed in with rain and whiteout conditions. Could have been interesting getting back had we gone. It remained that way till early afternoon. The Aussies left for Beetham Hut. With the Japanese also gone, Paul and I had the hut to ourselves so did rope exercises indoors to fill the afternoon. Thursday 30: Total whiteout conditions – yuk! So Paul decided to clean up the hut. The trouble with a hut near an airstrip, too easy to take too much food in, and what a mess with half empty packets. I really felt sorry for Paul. If there had been a woman in our party she could have done it. I helped Paul at times, but found I was always looking over my shoulder hoping no-one was watching. He did a fantastic job, there was a big carton of rubbish for the next plane out.

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Paul Bingham on Hochstetter Dome, November 1994 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) 3:30pm the whiteout lifted. We packed up and were out of that hut faster than robber’s dogs. I was about to experience walking down the mighty Tasman Glacier. And what a dog of a trip it was. The snow was soft so it was hard work. We arrived at Beetham Hut just on dark with rain starting. I’m not sure it was a wise decision, anyway we got there. Beetham Hut is a magic spot, and Paul and I felt pretty good about a semi rest day next day. I say semi because Paul felt he should get me up to Aiguilles Rogue Pass which he had done previously. We got only half way – the only excuses I have are soft snow and my age. We really enjoyed sitting around Beetham Hut on a lovely sunny day. It’s a good one – go there. We finished off the mighty Tasman on a hot, hot day – a real dog. Got a ride from the Blue Lakes to the airport to get the car. There ended a great trip. Paul took an umbrella with him, not silly on snow or rock because while I sweltered he looked pretty good under it, and it made a good photo. Thanks Paul, I really appreciated your company and expertise. Elie de Beaumont, while it is regarded as a moderate climb should not be taken lightly. Ice means front pointing is necessary in places. Very icy on summit ridge. Check conditions with Park HQ as the hut book at Tasman Saddle indicates Anna Glacier can cut off the mountain even in September and October.

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Tasman Glacier and Mt Cook, November 1994 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

Beetham Hut, November 1994 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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Ball Pass April 29-30, 1995 Published in Bulletin 544, July 1995

Two calm days, perfect snow conditions, 11 very evenly graded trampers = an enjoyable tramp. Decided not to do a trip report as such, but to do a comparison. Ball Pass Spring (November) or Autumn (April)

S = The Walk from Celmisia Flat to Ball Shelter – Yuk! 4/10 A = The Walk from Celmisia Flat to Ball Shelter – Yuk! 4/10 S = Ball Ridge bottom to top. A long steady plod, mostly on soft snow 5/10 A = Ball Ridge bottom to top, small section at bottom rough, then a good rocky ridge 8/10 S = Campsite in snow just below pass, perfect ½ way. Sun in evening & early morning 8/10 A = Campsite in snow just below pass, perfect ½ way. Lost sun early & late morning sun 6/10 S = Campsite to Pass, snow conditions: Good 7/10 A = Campsite to Pass, snow conditions: Hard and fast 8/10 S = Pass to moraine wall, straight down through snow gut all way, very quick and easy 9/10 A = Pass to moraine wall, different route, care required, some ice on rock 6/10 S = Moraine wall to road end shelter, no need to cross Hooker Glacier, pleasant afternoon stroll 8/10 A = Moraine wall to road end shelter, no need to cross Hooker Glacier, pleasant afternoon stroll 8/10 S = Views during the day, quite spectacular 10/10 A = Views during the day, less snow but still spectacular 10/10 I have even surprised myself. I thought I would have preferred the Autumn. It could be that a lot of us are learning to run before we can walk! Please make it a date and go on Sharon’s ‘Basic Snowcraft Course’ in September. Being able to self-arrest in snow is a must. Doug Forrester

OTMC camp below Ball Pass, April 29-30, 1995 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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The Mighty Marathon February 11, 1995 Published in Bulletin 550, December 1995

Four of us lined up for the full and about the same for the half marathon. It was a perfect morning, calm and mild. Once again 4.30am and we are off, Rob gets an early hop on the field by going around the west side of Flagstaff. I like the idea of that – it is easier than over the top. How about the club adopting that way as the norm, perhaps then shoot down the Freeman Track, would be easier on the feet than the road? How about it committee? Anyway, onwards and upwards. Rob gets geographically embarrassed on Chalkies and loses time. On down to the fence line and the gorse patch, used to be a real shit but not now, the forestry boys have bulldozed a lovely road through it, down toward Pyramid Hut corner. The turn-off to go down the Shangri-La Valley was up a bit from the corner, used to be a cyclone gate there (it’s gone). I had a look, wasn’t impressed, looked terribly overgrown, so took a gamble and wandered down the road. Nearer the corner a newly bulldozed tracked looked to run parallel with Shangri-La, so fingers crossed down I went, turned spot on. 8.50am Poplar Hut and water quality doesn’t impress me much so I hold off the drinking. Up through the plantation road to Mt John. How things have changed up to this point. In 1984 Ross and Gaye Davies took me around the marathon (my first one), the pine tress were just little ones poking out the grass. Now they tower over you. But during the marathon its great for shade. I leave the plantation at 9.20am and into the heat of the sun and what a difference, really hot, want a drink, but that huckery water from Poplar Creek doesn’t look to good in the bottle, so I don’t. Little Mt John Hut is really tidy, good to see. Down to the stream for a very big drink. It looked inviting, find out later farmer John had a swim here. My god, how wonderful it must have been John. Plodding on, feet hurting, really hot now, up the ridge above ABX Cave and the snow tussocks are huge, reflecting the sun, it’s knocking me about now. Lunch at The Gap about 12.15pm and a bit behind my schedule. But at The Gap is the most welcome sight of Mike Gieseg and Ann Schofield, a real moral booster team, had lots to drink. Thanks team. Now for Rocky Ridge – a bit of a grind, the heat, my feet and the hours gone by trying to tell me something. Ignore it Doug, it is only in the mind. Wonder how the others are going? Down the hill to Green Hut site where I find a letter from Josephine (who did the half) saying life’s a b…. because there is no water. Could be a problem developing here. Onward and upwards, through Sleepy Hollow, the odd mouthful is getting swilled around the mouth now. I fluke a mountain biker and scrounge a half a bottle of water – I’m made. My god it’s long way to the top of Swampy. Along the gravel road, no old dragons to put me wrong this year. Down onto Flagstaff and a very big drink at the water works taps and I’m finished – a great feeling. My thoughts go out to the others, I hope they’re okay.

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Some thoughts on the Marathon ▪ It’s a long way! A massive undertaking for one day. It is not a race but a real personal challenge. Just Do It. ▪ A good test of route finding, especially if you are on your own. ▪ Take a Walkman to listen to (good time waster) ▪ It if is a shitty day or just fog stay in bed. Well, that’s my last marathon – perhaps it is time for me to man a checkpoint. I am very mindful of what a sight the 3 at the Gap were. Next year if there is any interest I will take people over the first bit before the event. This seems to be the tricky part. Doug Forrester

Rocky Ridge from the north – past the halfway mark of the OTMC Silver Peaks Marathon (photo: Antony Pettinger)

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Marathon Route Guide (Southern Section) Published in Bulletin 560, November 1996 Doug Forrester takes us through the Southern end of the OTMC Marathon I'm starting at the Chalkies road, so I suggest you familiarise yourself with the Pineapple Track, put pressure on the OTMC management to include Freemans Track in the Marathon, then the route would be around the west side of Flagstaff, down past Ben Rudd’s, Freemans Track and out on to the road much lower down (a lot easier on the feet). Right oh, go up Chalkies Road, where it turns right go straight ahead. In a few minutes it angles left, so take that and go straight up to the top of track and look for track markers on right. Up to the top of Chalkies from the car is about an hour. At the top of Chalkies turn left off the main track at the third yellow painted marker. Follow an old fence on your left, passing a trig about 30m away on your right. Over a wooden gate, through some rushes and then follow a bulldozed track to bottom of hill, a fence on your right all the way. At the small dam go through the fence on your right to another bulldozed track and travel at right angles to track you have just come off. Eventually a gateway, carry on down the track till you come to Long Ridge Road Junction, turn left here and approx. 14 minutes down this road you will find a bulldozed track off to the right, go down this one (on the way down Long Ridge Road look for pyramid markings on limestone cliffs, this was the site of Pyramid Hut). On the way down, you'll have five creek crossings, there are also one or two side tracks - ignore them. Approx. 38 minutes from the Pyramid turn off, you will come to a steel bar across the track. Cross the steam (Big Stream) and go up the road and in 30 minutes you'll come to top of the hill, turn left and in five minutes you will see Poplar Hut on your right in a clearing. That's about 3-5 hours from the car. You can have 10 minutes there, resting, meditating, contemplating or plain old knitting. Stay on the road past the hut and head up beautiful open tussock of the Silver Peaks. (This is Mt John). You are now into the full blast of the sum. Immediately on your left go through a gate and follow up a fence line heading North. In four minutes look back and see if you can find Pyramid Corner. In 15 minutes go through a cyclone gate and pick up a bulldozed track going through tussock. This track goes past Mt John Hut in about 20-30 minutes. It is privately owned so permission is required; is four bunk, room for 4-6 on the floor. The fitter marathoners will be here before 10am. A nice tidy warm hut in a good location in the open, a nice overnighter. No water so wander down to Xmas Creek (not far) for water and a swim. The water temp in Feb is fabulous, ask farmer John, he'll be in it, better to get the water upstream from John Boy. The marathon crosses the steam here and the bulldozed track you follow heads North roughly parallel with the steam but much higher, don't be tempted to follow the stream. The track eventually comes back down to the stream at the junction of Xmas Creek and Cave Creek (near Jubilee Hut). Just before the junction stand back and have a look at it. Right away up in front of you across the creek slightly right is a bulldozed track, don't go over to it as you meet up with it later. Straight in front of you going straight up a steep hill is a fence line. Yes, that is where you are going -

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Doug Forrester’s OTMC Writings 1983-2002 straight up, close to fence. Up at the top when you meet up with the bulldozed track your body will be trying to tell you something, ignore it, it’s only a state of mind. We are now in country more familiar to most trampers. Follow it until it starts to go downhill to where it goes past ABC caves. My advice is not to go downhill, look above you to the very rocky ridgeline and see prominent animal tracks which will take you through there, so pop through the fence and follow them, this will take you above ABC caves. The reasoning here is the bottom way leads you to a very long ridge you have to go up (I call it "the grunter" - not to be confused with something else). Through the rocky ridge line, past ABC area and keeping to the ridgeline you will again pick up an animal/human track through heavy tussock. Then following a fence line on your left you'll get to The Gap. Hoorah! -hoop-de-ho, you are over half way. Now further good news is - at The Gap will be hot scones, human company, tea and bickies, cappuccinos, cold drinks, magnums (I know how you all like magnums) and nurses. You can have 15 minutes here to enjoy the view and those with manuka sticks keep an eye out for falcons. I once had a horse that when riding him out away from home he was an unwilling bugger, but turn him round and head for home and he became an animal possessed. From here on, you are all heading for home. I decided to make this the end of my marathon description as I feel most trampers are more familiar with this end of the Silver Peaks, I also did not cover the start for the same reason. May I now offer some advice - if it’s a shitty day stay in bed, it’s a long way. Fill up every time you find running water. Carry a 1.5l bottle in your pack and in your hand carry a small convenient bottle and keep sipping it - saves a lot of stops. I found it good. It’s a great experience, you'll get to see lots of Silver Peaks and something great to look back on for years to come - Good Luck. This is the 25th year of the Marathon and the celebration of it will be a real success if you - support it. Whether it be in one day or two days. I reckon a stopover at Mt John Hut would be all right. Me, well I think I would like to help steer those who I think need the most steering.

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Three Of Us On A Three Dayer January 2002 (Private Trip) Published in Bulletin 617, January 2002

Away from town 6pm Thursday. Up early Friday morning, full of go. The cooker wouldn’t go without a major overhaul, what the hell, it wasn’t going to dampen our enthusiasm. It should have been seen as an omen. We are at the West Matukituki road end and our destination for the day is Liverpool Bivvy, not too bad a day out, even the slabs near the hut have improved. Enjoying the sun outside the hut about 4pm, (Liverpool Bivvy a lovely spot just above the bush line) about 10 Kiwis or 20 Japanese.

Liverpool Biv, West Matukituki Valley, January 2002 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) We had a couple of Israelis for company. Saturday, early and full of go. Our destination for the day was down to the valley floor, up West Matukituki to Scotts bivvy rock, empty half our packs then up to Bevan Col for a peek at Mt Aspiring (what a sight) then back down to Scotts bivvy and finally into sleeping bags abut 11pm. The fly had more appeal than the bivvy rock. Quite a day that sure had its moments - sheer madness. Sunday, early and full of go (well perhaps not quite) our destination for the day to sidle from Scotts bivvy to French Ridge hut and then out to road end. Sidling on a near enough route that had its moments bought us out right at the hut. The new hut is a beauty. Got out to road-end about - I think I forget. Geez, that sure took us a while. Home about 1am. I think perhaps I should give more time and thought to my planning of trips.

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Sharon St Clair-Newman & Rowan Meddings in front of Mt Aspiring, January 2002 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection) I asked the other two if they enjoyed the trip, they said it was fun. They must have been very busy since we got back, as they haven’t returned my calls. Sorry, the privacy act prevents me disclosing any more. Anon.

Doug Forrester, Sharon St Clair-Newman & Rowan Meddings at French Ridge, January 2002 (photo: Doug Forrester Collection)

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The Mount Cook Range April 28-29, 2001 Published in Bulletin 625, December 2002 An old tale recently recalled – Part One

A club trip? It was either Ball Pass or Mueller Hut. Two really good trips. Having been to both several times I decided on one I’d thought about often. The Mount Cook Range is between the Tasman and the Hooker Valleys. It starts near the steel bridge across the Hooker River on the Tasman Valley road. Off the bridge turn left and you find a good camp site. The track starts 30 metres before the Wakefield Track sign (it - says closed) there’s a mumble/jumble heap of rocks there. Find the track and it’s pretty straight forward. That was my first surprise because I expected to be bush hashing - I found it by luck. The track is worn and easy to follow. I’ve done some homework on it since, they were wandering up there in the 40s. So, I’m on my way on my pat malone. Above the scrub line on a sunny day and can’t believe the views. There’s Mueller, Sefton, Footstool, Copland Pass. The Hermitage complex, the two swimming dams just down from the complex, way in the distance is Lake Pukaki. Then up the Tasman is Achilles Range, Malte Brim, Tasman Glacier, Minarets and me old mate Elle de Beaumont, but not Mt Cook until later on. The track is on the top of the ridge most of the way, easy to follow, very alpine type travel, reasonably safe going. With lots of stops to enjoy where I am I got to the top of Mt Wakefield about 1pm, after leaving at 7.30am. On Wakefield it’s calm and sunny, it’s magic and there’s Mt Cook. I have lunch and I’m seeing where to go, looks reasonable but a long way. I’m aware the forecast for Saturday night and Sunday is for a storm and I’m away up here. I have my tent fly but decide discretion is greater than valour so I reluctantly turn back. On the way back and I’m looking straight down those massive scree slopes that you see from the Hermitage. That’s what I want to try but it looks freaky getting onto them so decide to leave it to the likes of Arthur & Co. Shame because it would be a fast ride down. I quietly retrace my steps. I then wander around the Wakefield Track (closed by the nervous twitches of cave creek I guess). I spend the night in the motel at Stocking Stream in the Hooker Valley and fall off the bench in middle of the night to boot. On the way out on Sunday morning I meet up with Paul Bingham & Co who didn’t spend the night on Ball Pass either on account of the forecast, so we all wander up to Sefton Biv and I’m looking straight into my planned route on the Mount Cook range. It’s a sunny day and I’m wishing I could stay, however I resolve to return having enjoyed my return visit to Sefton Biv.

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The Mount Cook Range, Part Two 2002 (exact date unknown) Published in Bulletin 625, December 2002 I’m back at work and one day I spy this big high approaching. 2 days leave and I’m off. This time with Joan as my companion /chef, back up at Wakefield, sunny and warm. New territory now. Lovely alpine going, a bit weet-bixv at times but okay. I take a wrong course and get bluffed, I back off and find the only way seems to be up a hard snow face set on a dark face. Now the problem is from across at Sefton Biv. I had decided I didn't need ice axe and crampons so this time I left them at home. It's about this time I start to feel slightly annoyed with the situation. It's about 2.30pm in a lovely alpine basin with good water, so I leave Joan to set up camp and prepare a 3-course dinner while I wander off for a re-evaluation of our journey, I arrive back and I'm not in a good frame of mind. The food is basic (must learn to cook) I’m going to have to pay her off. There's one good thing about basic tucker in the mountains, its sure good to get out to a greasy shop. So, I go home but I’ll be back because it's a good one. So trampers, it's out there ‘just waiting to be done’ and in saying that I got to thinking where have I heard that before and l remembered. I'm strolling down one of the more important streets of Sydney really enjoying the view's and my mate makes the same remark. Anon. (The Privacy Act you know) (Doug this up in the forest, Editor)

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Letters to The Editor

1987 - Throw Away Packs Published in Bulletin 456, June 1987 Hi Ed! Good to have you back with us again. Say, heard a good one at the club a few weeks back…we are all aware that this is the ‘throwaway’ era, cans, bottles, etc. Well the latest, it seems, is packs! I hear tell that ‘Aorangi Bill’ found his a bit cumbersome while having a crack at Mt Cook, so way it went. Is this a new and exciting trend in climbing and tramping gear? Signed…. the Phantom (Mr. Phantom – thanks for your interesting and very informative letter. NZ pack manufacturers have a world-wide reputation for making rugged and extremely durable equipment. If they indeed have started to construct expendable packs, I hope the are bio-degradable, otherwise the great outdoors will be getting rather crowded out there! And what happens to the gear in the pack? Does it just lie there? This news item raises more questions than it answers, Mr. Phantom. C’mon back, big buddy, with more info! We’ve all got our ears on!)

1988 - Mid-Winter Wine and Dine Published in Bulletin 468, June 1988 Hi Ed, really enjoying your editorials, David. Keep up the good work. Good news about the winter wine and dine, the new venue sounds great; plenty of room means more happy trampers; no hard slog getting there means more food – yummy! Weight will be no problem, so one more bottle. Had a laugh at the Club the other night, I overheard some females waffling about challenging the males on the sporting field that weekend. I guess waffling is a bit harsh, they are entitled to their dreams. I though Barry had a cheek, suggesting croquet. Anyway Ed, fancy dress suits me fine, I won’t look out of place in my usual garb, won’t have my six-shooters but I will have my signet ring to help sort out the trouble- makers. By the way, have you heard whether S.H. is going? Won’t have W.P. to keep in check this year. Hope you can make it, David (The Editor comments – well, I hope I can make it, I’m the Leader! OK, no smart comments on my previous record on leading trips! I don’t know if S.H. is going to be there, she’ll be about as welcome as an attack of gonorrhea, but we all have our crosses to bear).

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1989 – Bushcraft Catering Published in Bulletin 475, February 1989 Dear Mame, I hear through the grapevine that the club is looking for a cook for Bushcraft. I wish to offer my services, with experience of the Kepler Trip behind me, I’m sure I’m now experienced enough to handle the occasion. My menu, well I thought I would do the Iris Burn menu and multiply it a given number of times. What do you think Ed? (Just marvelous, since I’ll be in the Garden of Eden at the time, my stomach agrees thankfully, Ed). Hoping for a favourable response… Yours Doug F

1989 - Mid-Winter Wine and Dine Published in Bulletin 483, November 1989 Hi Ed, great news eh, we have got less than a month to go, hoop-de-do. Say Ed, I was browsing through the new trip list and came across this Mt Luxmore Cooking Competition weekend coming up. Remember last year’s trip, quite entertaining eh, might be time for another madness trip. Packs are something I’ve been wondering about, restricting damn things they are. I once knew a chap who had a go at Mt Cook without a pack and just a bit of bad luck weather wise he didn’t make it. I won an award for my menu last year and felt quite honoured and am a bit tempted to defend my title with an even more comprehensive menu this time. We haven’t got Alister and Michelle as judges this year but I’m sure an accommodating judge will be found. Luxmore Hut is sure a beautiful spot and with Bill Robertson as manager, (wonder if 3 of them will go?) It’s sure to be as good as last year…Signed D

1990 – Year Of The Female Published in Bulletin 485, February 1990 Dear Madam Editor During one of the club nights I overheard a young lady called Rhonda volunteering to lead a weekend trip, I think that is absolutely terrific! Well done Rhonda and according to the grape- vine five other competent ladies have agreed to lead a weekend club trip, also a plug for the female sector and a nice break for the club. We have had the Year of the Dragon, Monkey, Chicken etc. so perhaps 1990 will be the Year of the Female, very nice thought don’t you think Madam Editor. Kind Regards THE PHANTOM

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1991 – Club Auction Published in Bulletin 502, September 1991 Dear Editor The Club Auction is over for another year. This year instead of spending much I decided to do an exercise I called ‘Observing Member reaction to the Auction’. I was disappointed. What an education it was. They just sat there. That’s all they did, they just sat there. No way were they going to enter into the spirit of proceedings and help encourage others to participate and keep the ball rolling. No, they just sat there. Were they drugged? Were they mesmerised? Were they threatened not to take part? No, they weren’t, they just had no intention of contributing to the occasion to make the Auction even more successful. They don’t seem to understand that for their social nights to be continue that they have to participate. Come on Members, for God’s sake have a go kiwi. So what if there is a bit of junk at time? In 1989 I bid 3 or 4 bucks for some de-hy food. Had a few laughs as well. Got it home, expiry date 1979, straight in the bin. But my money went to a good cause. Were you one of THEM? If so, we need your support next time THE PHANTOM

1991 – Sexual Harassment Published in Bulletin 504, November 1991 What’s the world coming to? I go to shake a lovely young lady’s hand the other day and I’m accused of sexual harassment and the aforementioned luscious lady knocks me to the ground, never mind the embarrassment of a real kiwi joker being floored by a lady, I’m most upset that a simple handshake in this day of a woman’s lip can be interpreted as harassment. I’d appreciate your comments on this whole messy business. THE PHANTOM

1992 - Snowcaving Published in Bulletin 514, October 1992 Dear Madam Editor, I am familiar with the normal snowcaving technique, but I have some reservations as to their value in an emergency because of time and effort required and having to stand around in the cold waiting ones turn to have a go. So when the grapevine started sending out signals that there was a better way, I coerced Barry Wybrow to demonstrate the new design. It snowed while we were digging it out, which helped prove a point. This new design is superior to the old one and I hope our club will start teaching it on snowcaving instruction weekends. I am not sure if it has the blessing of Mountain Safety, but I say ‘too bad’. I am more concerned with getting myself and my party into shelter as soon as possible. 51 | P a g e

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It is styled on a snigloo and is very quickly dug. Basically the steps are: (for a three person party)

The main advantages are: o By cutting out the slope, all the party members quickly get out of the wind. o By cutting the depth of the face, you can determine the quantity and properties of the snow pack. o Most of the excavation is done without having to stoop. PS: we also had a go at building an igloo, my advice is – leave that to the Eskimos. PPS: I found out what plastic money is – the cost of replacing a borrowed plastic snow shovel. They are useless!! Tidbits Doug Forrester, Antony Pettinger, Barry Wybrow and Co. spent many a happy hour (?) toiling in the snow. However things did not run according to plan and the construction was left, three quarters finished. The reason? ...... You should have been on the snow caving trip.

The moral of the story is ‘Don’t build an igloo unless you have very hot hands’.

1992 – Red Rose Published in Bulletin 511, July 1992 Could you please express my grateful thanks to those sweet, lovely young ladies who so thoughtfully brought a beautiful red rose and gave it to my husband Doug to take home for me. I understand it was bought in the lounge bar of the St Kilda Tavern, no matter. For those sweet young ladies to have done that for a little old lady like me is very touching indeed. May your days be filled with kindness. Marie Forrester

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1992 – Women’s Suffrage Year Published in Bulletin 514, October 1992 Dear Madam Editor And so Suffrage Year is now over, what a great year of celebrating it was to. My only regret was the rejection I was given when I put my name forward as a chef for the club suffrage trip to the Matukituki in November. Rejection is a terrible thing, Ed. I am disappointed with you ladies. Why? I’ve won prizes at cooking competitions so surely that was taken into consideration (and Ed, it was on more than one occasion). One prize I remember was for the fastest prepared meal. Obviously the women don’t value on coming on home after a hard days tramp to a billy simmering on the stove and the aroma of a carefully prepared meal drifting through the beech trees. I guess I will just have to keep the menu I had prepared for another club trip. Yours in sadness Doug Forrester

1995 – The Auction Published in Bulletin 543, July 1995 It’s auction time again and our motto is ‘we’ll sell anything’. It’s our only fundraising event in the year so what say we give it our best shot. This year the bosses tell us it is all for ourselves. It’ll be for a good cause so that’s great, charity begins at home. It would be great to see a bigger than usual Thursday turnout. The good news is that there are new auctioneers this year, but still managed by good old ‘bay leaves’ Newton and it’s on the grapevine that Barry is involved as well so that’s good news. We would love to see the more restrained ones flicking in the odd bid. I can remember being successful with a bid last year, it was for a lilo, they’re great at the beach or down a river. I got a pair of gloves thrown in, I’m still using them. A young lady called Sue couldn’t believe it, a good jersey, fitted and looked good. I can still see the look of surprise on her face. Barry, hard to pick up his nods but still won the goods. Sharon, one of the luckier ones, her spirited bidding scoring her a toastie pie maker. With old ‘Bay Leaves’ or is it ‘Baileys’ Newton at the helm it is sure to be a cracker night, so hang loose and be in the fun. See you there Doug

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2000 – Kayaking Trip Published in Bulletin 595, March 2000 Well Ed, the good news is, Mr. Newton’s trip is fast approaching. He runs a good ship (I guess in this case, it’s a boat) – always well organised and well thought out. I’m taking it pretty seriously myself, ED – I’ve started lessons up at Moana Pool, and I’m really enjoying them. You know, when I’m finished this underwater course, I might stay on and brush up on a few strokes. Yes sir, I wouldn’t miss this trip for quid’s. Hope I see you there Ms. Ed, I’ll row over and make myself known to you. Anyway, I’ll be easily recognised, I’ll be the one with a lot of polish, what with all this practice. To all you rowers, write it down, it’s a good one, and the captain – well, he’s tops Cheers, Anon.

OTMC Kayaking Trip, Lake Manapouri, September 25, 1994 (photo: Antony Pettinger)

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Trip Blurbs

Cycle Trip to Young Tai’s Published in Bulletin 462, December 1987 A very frugal fella was Young Tai. Not for him the extremes of Central Otago, nor the arduous journey that entailed. No Sir, Young Tai settled for the temperate zone. A nice sheltered spot, & quietly panned away. Well, that’s the destination of the “Cycle Trip of The Decade’. About six hours of cycling, so some cycling fitness will be desirable. We won’t be out for any records. The overnight spot is a real Shangri-La, great swimming (warm water), very sheltered, private and a great spot for a bonfire. There’ll be a backup car for all gear. Looks like holidays this year is going to include a bit of cycling! Ring Me Doug Forrester

OTMC party en-route to ‘Young Tai’s’, January 30, 1988 (photo: Michelle Longstreth)

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Greenstone / Caples Weekend (24-25 March, 1990) Published in Bulletin 485, February 1990 A really Top-Notch area for this one. On the fringes of Fiordland so we won’t get that Fiordland crap that washes out all the mountains (better throw in that parka just in case) Starts at the majestic Lake Wakatipu and then into the golden-brown valley floor of the Greenstone, or how about the Caples ‘park-like’ clearings, tongues of beech forest down to the valley floors. Fishing, 3kgs are pretty common so chuck in the fishing line. Lots of scope for Easy, Medium or Fit trips. The Fit can do the round trip and the FE nutters (yes, there is a few of them) we’ll send them down Steele Creek and over the Ailsa Mountains, that should keep them quiet on the journey home. You might meet up with Mick Hutchins and his 3 pack horses transporting coal, perhaps scrounge a ride across the rivers, I’ll be looking in that direction myself. I used to get the Chief Guide but his girlfriend (whoops, wife) goes a bit funny on that one. So there it is! See you on the Greenstone / Caples circuit. (Hey C.G. what a great story, I haven’t even been in the area) Leader……. Doug Forrester

Ball Pass without the Champagne (23-24 March, 1996) Published in Bulletin 551, February 1996 Barry believes we should teach our club members more snow skills and I agree. He kicked the ball along with the Copland trip last year and I’ve decided on Ball Pass without the booze. It is open to anyone who did the Snowcraft course at Awakino last year and while it’s a medium fitness trip it does involve a bit of grunt at times. So if you’re interested in this trip than it may pay to work on this as I have March in mind for this trip. It isn’t an official Club trip in the true sense of the word, so it will be a fine weather only trip. If we get enough for a van then I’m sure our Chief Guide could work something out for us, but of course if we only have one vehicle then I guess we would have to have a young turk (or a fit chick) to jog five minutes around the point to collect the vehicle. What is Ball Pass? Ball Pass is in Mt Cook National Park and is a very enjoyable two-day alpine crossing from Tasman Valley to Hooker Valley. Ball Pass is 7000ft and you will be wearing crampons and using an ice axe as you go through the pass. Saturday night will see camp on snow just below the pass. The gradient is not quite as steep as the wee peak we knocked off at Awakino so it will be a good trip. Ring me if interested.

Doug Forrester

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