WHAT’S HOT NOW TREND

SPECIAL SPOTTINGPRODUCED BY KATE HEDDINGS & CHELSEA MORSE EDITION

TRAVEL SCOUT SOME OF THE most beautiful in the world don’t come from a Parisian patisserie, but from a bakeshop in Hong Kong run by former Chanel executive Bonnae Gokson. The Luxury in all spheres inspires most of the desserts at Ms B’s Cakery, from a swirled chocolate ganache cake that Couturier resembles fine marble (above, also available in a sugar-free A Chanel exec turned version) to a confection covered in sugar flowers designed impresario is creating luxurious in homage to a Dior couture dress. 39 Gough St.; confections in Hong Kong. msbscakery.hk. —M. ELIZABETH SHELDON chester ong ong chester

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PASTRY of the MOMENT

The Eclectic Éclair the PERFECTIONIST A New-Fashioned Houston’s Common Bond combines impeccable Old World with high-tech innovation.

IT STARTED with a simple kugelhopf. “I bit into that little cake for the first time when I was working at Pierre Hermé in Paris, and then I knew

Pistachio-orange custard what I wanted to do with my life,” says pastry chef Roy Shvartzapel.

Vanilla custard withVanilla caramelized pecans After working at El Bulli in Spain Chocolate custard with shaved chocolate and Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills,

Raspberry custard with meringue and crispy wafers he has now opened Common Bond in his hometown of Houston. There, he uses high-tech gear (like precision cake carvers with powerful water jets) to create incredible breads, tarts and pastries. Yet the most popular is “We look to history to rework classics like the éclair, his low-tech version of the kugelhopf (below), studded with brandy- then go forward with something new.” soaked raisins. wearecommonbond pastry chef johnny iuzzini on le méridien hotels new éclair menus ’ .com. –CHELSEA MORSE éclairs: le meridien hotels & resorts; dessance; dessance; & resorts; le meridien hotels éclairs: smith ralph pastry: dorelli; françoise

the RENEGADE A Sweet Bistro The multicourse menus at Paris’s Dessance are dedicated to sweetness.

THE LINE BETWEEN savory chefs and pastry chefs is blurring, and nowhere is that more evident than at Paris’s Dessance. Former pastry chef Christophe Boucher creates traditional multicourse meals, but each dish, from amuse- bouche to main course, contains naturally sweet ingredients. For instance, Boucher tops white tuna with a peach emulsion. 74 Rue des Archives; dessance.fr. –MES

DECEMBER 2014 30 FOLLOW US @FOODANDWINE “I roll thedough like The base for this Amaretti Cookies the cookies inraw Bitter Almond Cream Roasted Nectarines combine disparate flavors. flavors. disparate combine that complex desserts season,” creating of agrowing cadence “the she calls with apricot pits Kincaid uses atiny DECEMBER 2014 DECEMBER sugar before baking.” steeped inbrandy. sauce: house-made out thefruit. ring cutter to punch gnocchi, thentoss liqueur prepared PASTRY CHEFS the country to spot trends—and find to spot trends—and country the these five outstanding pastry chefs. pastry five these outstanding F&W BEST NEW editors ate desserts around ate editors desserts Kincaid is inspired by what inspired is Kincaid farmer, of a daughter The FORK, PHILADELPHIA S

am Kincaid am BY BY KATE HEDDINGS

F&W 2014

HONORS PASTRY

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32 “I ‘write’ and ‘rewrite’ ‘rewrite’ and ‘write’ “I What’s Hot Now Hot What’s balance out abit sweetness. of the balance for instance—to herbs, ingredient—fresh asavory adding always s’mores, like every dessert each dessert every time I returntime to it.” sam The ganache is Chocolate Ganache out withringmolds. a bigtray, thencut butter crunchon poured over almond

kincaid , , fork familiar American desserts desserts American familiar at transforming agenius She is RICH TABLE, SAN FRANCISCO S arah Rich

“I pipemarshmallow Marshmallow then brown with from thejar.” exactly like Fluff onto theganache, a blowtorch. Ittastes

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“The chocolate together.” Baby Tarragon aspect to tiethem a fresh herbal marshmallow need ganache and

kincaid: jason varney (2); rich: alanna hale (2) raisins and coriander cake. verjus-soaked with custard aJapanese like elements combining perspective, global aunique Mosko has DECEMBER 2014 DECEMBER NORTH POND, CHICAGO Mosko Greg “SometimesI miss who am I kidding?”who I am jen my tweezers,my but

yee

, , lafayette

“These are just “We poach Boscs in “I caramelize white Toasted coriander Japanese Namelaka Soaked Raisins Coriander Cake Poached Pears eggless custard.” for great color.” flavors meringue- steeped inverjus.” chocolate to regular Sun-Maids, pomegranate puree based cake. make thiscreamy,

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“Mushrooms” The stems are made with candy-cap- cream; thetop is a marshmallow. mushroom-infused with a serious fascination with science. with fascination aserious with Forest” (below). His whimsy coexists coexists Forest” (below). whimsy His the creator of “Through Bacheller, 34 What’s Hot Now Hot What’s

“I love being playful, playful, “I love being Jared Bacheller Jared nostalgic, even silly,” even says nostalgic, L’ESPALIER, BOSTON “Moss” Cake then microwaved. this cake, whichis Chestnut flourand blended ina Vita-Prep, green tea flavor executed pastries. “Idon’t crave pastries. executed pleasing, as are her perfectly perfectly her are as pleasing, foams and gelées,” and she says. foams

”I use Valrhona Ivoire, but

FOLLOW US @FOODANDWINE FOLLOW Yee fillsthemwith White Chocolate Amped-Up Raspberries She makes thebatter Ganache texture ultra smooth.” the real secret isglucose Pistachio Macaron sugar andeggwhites. syrup, whichkeeps the of pistachio flour, meringue withapaste by folding Italian her own raspberry jam. “Maple Leaf” Tuile“Maple The cookie batter than baked. in a Vita-Prep and gets blended dehydrated, rather Jen Yee Jen Yee’s plated desserts Yee’s desserts plated

are homey and crowd- homey and are LAFAYETTE, NEW YORK CITY

mosko: nathan michael (2); bacheller: michael piazza; bacheller pastry: christian schlubach; yee: noah fecks (2)