qqa1109_YarraValley.indda1109_YarraValley.indd 446-476-47 114/10/20094/10/2009 5:23:455:23:45 PMPM VVICTORIAICTORIA YYARRAARRA VALLEYVALLEY

Dominique Portet and son Ben (left); pastries and a satisfied patron of the Healesville Hotel (below); Yering Station (opposite)

HE east of held its of decline, when dairying and logging were more lucrative; breath for a while as last February’s Black when Warburton was better known for its sanatorium and Saturday bushfires raged through . It was Healesville was full of guesthouses where Melburnians a little close for comfort. However, the gods smiled retreated for the summer. But since vines were replanted in and now it’s business as usual for the region earnest about 40 years ago, and big companies began to synonymous with wine and good times ever since acquire holdings in the area, the Yarra Valley has grown into the first vines were planted in 1838, and Paul de one of Victoria’s best-known wine regions. Castella built a winery and grandly hospitable The surrounding cool rainforests are national parks and homestead in the 1850s. The Yarra used to be tourist attractions. Dairying has been transformed into the renowned for its long-lived boutique cheeses of Yarra Valley Dairy, and Healesville has and shiraz, but more recently made its become a different kind of retreat. It is “the belly” of the Yarra name with and , Valley, full of gastronomic enterprises. Pasta? Here it is, along with sauvignon blanc now emerging for its distinctive floral with an excellent range of sauces. Bakery? Tick. Butcher? (rather than green) notes. This is one of the few areas in Yes, indeed. Gastro-pubs? Of course. But don’t expect to find Australia where marsanne is grown in any quantity. kangaroo on the menu. Healesville Sanctuary is not far The fortunes of the wine industry in the Yarra Valley have away and is reserved solely for native animals, allowing been as mixed as anywhere in the county. There were years visitors to stroll among the wildlife. Look, but don’t eat. 

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qqa1109_YarraValley.indda1109_YarraValley.indd 448-498-49 114/10/20094/10/2009 5:24:025:24:02 PMPM YARRA VALLEY

The best way to explore is to follow the example ‘‘ of the river: don’t rush

EAT & DRINK a considerable foodie empire. DOMINIQUE PORTET There’s the pub, with its dining 870 Maroondah Highway, room (recommended), bar Coldstream. (sometimes fine), garden (03) 5962 5760. and accommodation within the www.dominiqueportet.com pub and in two self-contained The building, with its big cottages on Harvest Farm. Neil shuttered windows, sits Cunningham’s international snug and low on the ground, flavours make excellent use of reminiscent of a French regional produce. Next door is farmhouse. Dominique Portet the Harvest Cafe, which serves Clockwise at Giant Steps: tarts; Innocent Bystander wine; comes from a long line of breakfast and lunch daily, and baker Lindon Clarke and chef winemakers across three offers an array of local produce Pip Hayes continents (his father in and other foodstuffs. There’s Bordeaux and his brother even a store. Open daily. Bernard in California). His Local produce could fill the table: apples, cherries, berries, sons are the 10th generation GIANT STEPS/ peaches, brussels sprouts, shallots, preserves, venison, to be involved. Most of the INNOCENT BYSTANDER Kennedy and Wilson chocolate, pasta, cheeses. wines are made from Yarra 336 Maroondah Highway, Some of Australia’s big wine names are there. Domaine Valley fruit, with the exception Healesville. (03) 5962 6111. Chandon and De Bortoli, Coldstream Hills, the legendary of the Heathcote shiraz and www.giant-steps.com.au Mount Mary and Yeringberg. Big company wineries cabernet sauvignon. The rosé is Phil and Allison Sexton, having (Foster’s, De Bortoli) neighbour smaller ones. The mix is a benchmark. Tastings and light established Devil’s Lair, Matilda important to the strength of the place, as is the mix of farm- meals are available. Open daily. Bay and Little Creatures in ing and bush, residences and tourism. Western Australia, came east The best way to explore the Yarra Valley is to follow the HEALESVILLE HOTEL and again turned their hands example of the river: don’t rush. There are three highways 256 Maroondah Highway, to wine and beer. Giant Steps, that traverse the valley: the Melba (named for the great Healesville. (03) 5962 4002. named after an album by jazz soprano Dame Nellie Melba, who retired there), the Maroon- www.healesvillehotel.com.au saxophonist John Coltrane, is a dah (which leads to Healesville) and the Warburton. Each This solid, early 20th-century winery and a good deal more. has its own character and attractions. country pub has grown into Wine, beer, bread and coffee 

50 QANTAS NOVEMBER 2009

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