KNOW YOUR CARROTS Shoots, Buds and Seeds from Apiaceae Poisoning Have Throughout the Growing Arisen from Misidentification of Year

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foragers safe and provide with danger - especially as toxins an exciting range of food tend to be heavily concentrated options including roots, in tubers. By far the most deaths KNOW YOUR CARROTS shoots, buds and seeds from apiaceae poisoning have throughout the growing arisen from misidentification of year. 20 or so species can roots (notably mistaking hemlock With the possible exception of be mastered over time. water-dropwort for wild parsnip) fungi, no group of wild foods AUTHOR PROFILE: To become familiar with and I recommend focusing on fills the average forager with more than a couple of above-ground parts until you as much trepidation as the dozen varieties requires feel very familiar with individual carrot family. I have met highly MARK WILLIAMS methodical focused species and their lookalikes. proficient foragers of many Mark Williams shares his lifelong love of wild research over a wide area for Shoots, leaves, stems, buds and years’ experience who don’t foods through his free online learning resource, a sustained period. seeds will be our main focus here. harvest any of them for fear GallowayWildFoods.com and as a full-time of misidentification and the foraging tutor. With clients ranging from Michelin potentially life-threatening chefs to bushcraft schools and primary school repercussions this might have. pupils, Mark passionately believes that wild THE CARROT TOXIC SPECIES & foods should be accessible to all. He runs courses FAMILY IN A LOOKALIKES et if I were forced to choose UK-wide, but is happiest at home harvesting for only one group of plants to friends and family in the forager’s paradise of Galloway, south-west Scotland. BUSHCRAFT The rewards of the carrot family to rely on for food and flavour He has worked as a chef and fisherman and served in Mountain Rescue CONTEXT the forager-gastronome are huge, Y Teams since he was 15. You can Tweet with Mark on @markwildfood but the risks are also significant. it would be this remarkable and diverse family. Sure, the stakes are In a bushcraft or survival Several highly toxic species are high. But, by investing a little focused species worldwide. Parsley and celery family are also setting, the carrot family native to the UK. Of these, two in time on a regular basis, the risks become negligible and widely used as labels, but carrot family reflect its best is most useful as a food particular represent the greatest the rewards endless. Perhaps surprisingly, winter is the known cultivated member in the average Western source. Having said that hazard on account of their wide best time to start learning. This allows careful scrutiny I have had some success distribution, virulent toxicitiy and over time of the different growth stages of key members, kitchen. Anyone with a culinary or horticultural leaning using the dry seed heads similarity to edible species. They allowing you to “tune in” before hedgerows become too might also recognise fennel, coriander and dill as of common hogweed are hemlock (conium maculatum) busy. Plant Protein membersin g per of the100g same ofgroup. edible Botanists parts and adventurous (heracleum sphondylium) Hemlock Water-Dropwort leaf structure and hemlock water-dropwort Curly Kale (cultivated) foragers will know3.0 lots more - over 70 species are native as tinder, and the “basket” and unopened flower head. Note the (oenanthe crocata). ReferredStinging to more scientifically Nettle as the apiaceae to the UK, or have5.9 made their home here. structure of wild carrot pinnate divisions, smooth, hairless stem (pronouncedCommon ay-pee-ay-cee-eye Hogweed or A-P-A-C-I) or Knowledge of 6.7a dozen or so key wild species (including (daucus carota) seed heads and "rounded serrations" of lobes Nobody should consider eating umbelliferae, the carrot family includes more than 3,700 important toxic varieties) is sufficient to keep most make excellent combustible any wild-harvested members of receptacles for superior the carrot family unless they can Plant Protein in g per 100g of edible parts tinder. The smoke smells differentiate these species with Vit C in micrograms per 100g of edible parts PlantCurly Kale (cultivated) Protein in g per 100g3.0 of edible parts great too! 100% certainty. SpinachStinging Nettle(cultivated) 525.9 Curly Kale (cultivated) 3.0 Some species have medicinal properties, notably StingingCommonBroccoli (cultivated)Nettle Hogweed 1145.96.7 Fat Hen 236 sanicle (sanicula europaea) and angelica (angelica Common Hogweed 6.7 sylvestris), both of which can be used to treat a Cow Parsley 179 range of conditions including digestive problems PlantGround Elder Vit C in micrograms 201per 100g of edible parts and coughs/sore throats. PlantSpinachCommon (cultivated) Hogweed Vit C in micrograms 291per52 100g of edible parts SpinachBroccoli (cultivated) 11452 I can find little authoritative analysis of the Fat Hen 236 nutritional values of the wild members of the Broccoli (cultivated) 114 carrot family. What evidence does exist indicates CowFat Hen Parsley 236179 nutritional benefits far in excess of cultivated CowGround Parsley Elder 179201 so-called “superfoods”. They even measure up GroundCommon Elder Hogweed 201291 well against other more commonly used wild CommonPlant HogweedWater Potassium Phosphorous Magnesium291 Calcium Iron plants such as nettle. (%) (mg/100g) (mg/100g) (mg/100g) (mg/100g) (mg/100g) Curly Kale (cultvtd) 86.3 490 87 31 212 1.9 Many of the apiaceae have substantial roots Stinging Nettle 84.8 410 105 71 630 7.8 Common Hogweed 79.8 540 125 75 320 3.2 which can provide carbohydrate throughout the year. However, identification of roots, especially Hemlock (deadly - left) and Cow Parsley (edible - right). Note: Wild plants of the apiaceae family Source: Auswertungs und Informationsdienst für where a mixture of species are growing, is fraught Make careful note of how similar these look. This is why highlighted in green. Nutritional values can vary Ernahrung, Landwirtschaft und Forsten, Bonn, 1987 cited Plant Water Potassium Phosphorous Magnesium Calcium Iron all identifications MUST be based on multiple features. widely between species and stage(%) of growth.(mg/100g) in(mg/100g) Cooking Weeds by(mg/100g) Vivien Weise, 2004(mg/100g) p@ (mg/100g) Curly KalePlant (cultvtd) Water86.3 Potassium490 Phosphorous87 Magnesium31 Calcium212 Iron1.9 Stinging Nettle 84.8(%) (mg/100g)410 (mg/100g)105 (mg/100g)71 (mg/100g)630 (mg/100g)7.8 CurlyCommon Kale Hogweed (cultvtd) 86.379.8 490540 12587 3175 212320 1.93.2 22 • BUSHCRAFTStinging & Nettle survival 84.8skills magazine410 105 Follow Bushcraft71 & Survival630 Skills Magazine7.8 on Facebook BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 23 Common Hogweed 79.8 540 125 75 320 3.2 WILD FOOD

Habitat Roots Knowing these will keep you Distribution/ All identifications (of any wild food) should start with As mentioned earlier, roots are tricky, and I recommend much safer and you should Location habitat. Habitat will never give you a definitive positive not uprooting plants until you are proficient in identifying actively seek them out. Also ID, but it will rule out a lot of species. So, for example above-ground parts. Apart from being illegal without be aware of other, rarer/ Consider distribution early - it (and most usefully), hemlock water-dropwort always has the landowner’s permission, uprooting is likely to kill less toxic species like fool’s will help you to narrow down its feet wet. If you are on well drained sandy dunes, you the plant. If you are intent on looking at roots, follow parsley and other water- likely suspects. For example, can eliminate it from your enquiries (though be aware all the guidance for above-ground ID here, then very dropworts (oenanthe spp). you are unlikely to find sweet cicely in southern England, or it often grows on carefully follow the foreshores where stem down to the Confidence can be gained alexanders in western Scotland. springs emerge and root, ensuring it is only by observing living Be aware of how common damp field edges). attached. plants (both edible and species are in general - for Conversely, if you toxic) on a regular basis example, hemlock water- are on a soggy Having said that, throughout the year, noting dropwort is hyper-abundant riverbank, expect it you should certainly the development of multiple in south west Scotland, while to be lurking. familiarise yourself features. Flicking through a hemlock is found only in a few with the distinctive reference book or looking at coastal locations. This doesn’t “dead man’s fingers” a few images online is not mean you can be complacent roots of hemlock sufficient. about ever finding poisonous Smell species that are rare in your water-dropwort Flower smell (pictured). These You need to get down and area, but you can have realistic isn’t particularly are often exposed dirty with these plants on expectations about what you useful here - most or washed up after a regular basis. Every year are likely to find. apiaceae are floods or high tides I run “Confidence With pollinated by flies, Dead Man's Fingers - The roots of Hemlock Water-Dropwort and resulted in the Carrots” courses for already hoverflies and are potentially deadly, but apparently are quite mild tasting. deaths of many experienced herbalists, Season midges, which they Decoctions of these roots have historically been used to (greedy) dogs foragers and bushcrafters Where laymen see cow parsley attract through a administer death sentences. These were washed up on the around the UK looking to refresh or flowers in the hedgerows from range of dung and shore after a storm alighting next to edible sea beet leaves. after the big winter improve their knowledge. spring to late autumn, the decay-like smells. storms of January experienced apiaceae forager Instead pick and 2014. will be aware of a distinct crush the leaves, stem or seeds then smell them. Be IDENTIFYING succession of dominant aware that while no UK member of the carrot family is APIACEAE Hemlock stem. The purple blotches are very distinctive, though sometimes not so umbellifers. For example, poisonous to touch, the sap of some (notably hogweed Shoots and parsnip species) can cause phytophotodermititus (a To non-botanists and obvious as this in south west Scotland in a recurring burn stimulated in bright sunlight) - so you may The unopened basal leaves will be the first visible sign non-foragers, the key normal year, I would expect wish to wear gloves. of the plant above ground. This is a challenging stage characteristics of the carrot family are umbels of pale to see flowers of hemlock water-dropwort early (maybe at which to ID, but often very rewarding in terms of (usually white or off-white, occasionally yellow) flowers March), followed by cow parsley, then ground elder, Try to develop a meaningful vocabulary to describe, flavour and nutrition. I recommend either making a full and multiply (pinnately) divided leaves. Many have sweet cicely, hogweed, and finally angelica flowering evaluate and compare smells. Hemlock is often described year of observation of a specific location before eating, pungent aromatics, though these can vary widely from in September. Note that all these flowering seasons as smelling of mouse pee. I’m willing to bet that or rummaging among easier to ID fully opened basal species to species. Such vague observations go no way can overlap. As I write in December, I know at a glance most people, including those that regurgitate these leaves to find later-emerging shoots. Focus on hairiness, whatsoever towards distinguishing between edible and that the strong new growth of vibrant green pinnately descriptions, haven’t ever smelled mouse pee! Although formation of shoots (e.g. tight rosette, bushy, creeping toxic species. divided leaves in the hedgerows are almost certainly hemlock water-dropwort or cow parsley. In southern they are subjective, descriptions like “pleasant” or “acrid” etc.) are much more useful. Below I give a step-by-step guide to how to get to England, alexanders will be looking strong too just now. grips with the carrot family that should take you from Some apiaceae have very distinct and instantly novice to confident carrot-cruncher in a year. That is the Apart from a few very distinctive species, at least three of Basal leaves recognisable smells (notably sweet cicely and fennel), but minimum time you will need, though species like ground the following features should be observed to accurately be aware that many different species smell “carroty” or Basal leaves are the initial surge of growth, usually elder and sweet cicely should come quickly. Two years match the species description. Remember, only some “of celery”. Smell is not a rule of thumb (as in “if it smells comprising a rough “rosette” of lush green leaf growth, is better. Please take time to read and understand the of these features will be present at any one time. I have of x it must be safe”), but is an important weapon in your often visible long before the plant even thinks of key identification features described below and the table listed them roughly in order of what you should consider identification armoury. With training, your nose can keep flowering. This is often the tastiest and most nutritious of key species first. Remember that this is advice to use when attempting an ID and according to when the you as safe as your eyes. edible part. in conjunction with quality field guides and reference features may be observable. books. If you intend to eat them, it is essential to base identification of apiaceae on multiple features. These are:

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Gestalt Buds Once a degree of proficiency has been Many members of the carrot achieved, it is possible to recognise family form flower buds in many species by their “gestalt” - the papery parcels. When these general “feel” of a plant based on open, the opened parcel habitat, season and general shape - as becomes the “sheath” at the memory-mapped by the experienced base of the flowering stem. forager. (Bird watchers use the term Note the presence of these, “jizz” for this when identifying a bird at and any colours or marking a glance). This will only develop after a on the parcels. period of careful observation of precise botanical features. It should never be Common Hogweed shoots, April. Note they are surprisingly thick used alone as the basis for harvesting and hairy. This is a challenging ID for beginners, but well worth Flowers for the pot. investing the time in as these are the nicest vegetable in the UK, 5 apiaceae leaves. L-R: Sweet cicely, cow parsley, ground elder, hemlock By the time a plant flowers, bar none! water-dropwort, hemlock. Things to note: white "splashes" on sweet its leaves are often past their LEARN THE KEY MEMBERS cicely (just visible); large oval serrated lobes (3x3) on ground elder; large, best for eating. Don’t let OF THE CARROT FAMILY 6. Make all the observations (noted above) that are rounded, "non-lacey" lobes of HWD. this rush you. Remember, IN A YEAR - A Step By you need to invest at least possible and eliminate unlikely species from your a year in learning. Wait Step Guide enquiries. Don’t expect to nail the ID at this stage, but try Spend plenty of time looking at these. Learning the for the flowers to confirm your tentative pre-flowering to work on a shortlist. language and subtleties of leaf structure will stand you Use the following guidance in conjunction with the table identification as they can be quite distinctive. in good stead for wider exploration of plants and if provided and field guides. 7. Return on a regular basis (at least monthly) and watch you can master apiaceae most other families will seem Typically flower structure consists of one large umbel the development of the plants, noting new characteristics straightforward. 1. Invest in at least two quality botanical field guides made up of multiple smaller umbellules. Note flower as they develop. Refine or confirm your initial IDs. with thorough coverage of the carrot family. (See my colour (usually white or yellow, though pink hues can Become familiar with the general “fern-like” structure, recommendations below). develop and look out for odd individual flowers of a red 8. Keep an eye out for “new arrivals” - bearing in mind comprising a central stem, multiple divisions with those colour). What number of umbellules make up the umbel? the rough chronology noted above under “season”. divisions dividing again and so on, often resulting in 2. Ideally, start in January when hedgerows are Are there green bracts or bracteoles descending beneath a “lacy” look. Botanical guides describe this structure uncluttered and basal growth can be easily observed. individual flowers? Are the individual flowers and petals 9. Take leaves, stems, buds, flowers and seeds home and as “pinnate”, and the number of divisions can be an all the same size, or are some larger? What is the general spend time comparing them to quality plant guides. excellent aid to ID. 3. Select a few locations where you have noticed a shape of the fully formed umbel? Flat topped? Globe variety of apeaceae. Look for skeletons of old growth. shaped? 10. You should soon be feeling confident about the How many times the leaf divides. (= how many times You shouldn’t need to look far, most hedgerows, wood- easier species. Get used to noticing these as you move pinnate?) edges and waste ground should have at least 5 varieties. about the countryside. Watch them develop. Notice the Is the leaf hairy, smooth or shiny? Seeds Typically, 100m of old rough verge/hedgerow should different patterns of flowering leaves to basal leaves. You Are there distinctive terminal leaf lobes? provide lots of learning opportunities. Try to choose should soon start to recognize the gestalt of common Are the terminal lobes sharply toothed or rounded? Seeds are usually unique to species and can clinch somewhere that you visit regularly for other reasons - species. What shape is the central stem? - eg “U” shaped or “O” identification, though very close observation may be walking the dog maybe. Thus your learning will be part of shaped in cross section. required. Look for shape, size, grooves, ribs, hairs and a natural pattern, not a chore. 11. Seek out toxic species if they don’t seem to occur Note any “sheathing” where leaves emerge from the burrs. (Note: By “seed”, I refer to entire seed casing - in your observation areas. You won’t feel good about central rosette. technically the “fruit”). 4. It may help to keep a notebook, though the human harvesting for the pot until you have got up close and What shade of green is the leaf, are there any variations? brain is evolved to recognise and remember many subtly personal with the important poisonous species. HWD is Does the leaf lie on a “flat plane” or is it “corrugated”? different plant structures and you will be pleasantly common in most areas of the UK, but those in the north Skeletons surprised at your recall skills if you visit your sites may have to search for hemlock. regularly. Notes are very useful after a year of observation The remains of the previous year’s growth will often Flowering stems though. Cameraphones are also very useful - ensure 12. After a year of observation, you should be feeling persist. These can be very useful reference points for images are labelled (best guess, location) and dated for very comfortable with many of the species, at all stages When the plant sends up its taller flowering stems, more observing general structure - height, proportions, umbel comparison. of growth. The truest test of your confidence is whether useful ID characteristics appear: what is its height fully shape etc. Look also for young shoots of the following you feel good about eating edible varieties. If you don’t, grown, i.e. when flowers are fully formed. What colours/ year’s growth at their base - invaluable for understanding 5. Look for shoots and basal leaves forming. Focus that’s fine: spend some more time enjoying getting to markings are on stems. Is the stem hollow? Smooth or plant development. initially on the “easy/common/important” species listed know them. hairy? in the table. But don’t ignore any likely carrot species. 13. USE IT OR LOSE IT. The key to feeling truly confident

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UK, bar none. Steamed leaf buds beat broccoli in every with the carrot family is to stay intimate with them. While red-blotched stems of hemlock are really quite different way, the seeds make a fantastic spice and the roots a rich Recommended Reading time invested is never wasted, a failure to stay in touch from the U-shaped, rough, green or purple stems of cow aromatic gin. My favourite plant! with the plants parsley. Seek them out! Umbellifers of the British Isles, BSBI Handbook No 2, by T.G. Tutin, 1980 will make your IDs Sweet Cicely - I feel sorry for foraging friends in the The most comprehensive work I have found, though rusty and sloppy. I hope you enjoy the South, where this wonderful aromatic plant seldom taxonomy somewhat out of date, dryly scientific in tone Uncertainty will process of getting to grows. Its sweet aniseed aromatics go fantastically in and includes a lot of rare species - perhaps more than the creep back in, or know these remarkable desserts and drinks (I make wild Sambuca with it), or are A whole wet meadow full of Hemlock Water- novice needs. worse still, over- plants. They provide great with fish. confidence. Dropwort, Galloway, May me with a year-round Field Guide to the Wild Flowers of Britain, Readers Digest, stream of delicious Alexanders - Foraging friends in the South feel sorry 1981 The uncertainty I ingredients. I’m running for us Northerners as this delightful aromatic is a scarcity Fabulous book, with detailed illustrations of multiple encounter most out of space to go into in Scotland. It has countless uses as a vegetable, but its parts (including seeds) and comparative layouts. . often, even in much more detail on myrrh-like aromatics also go well in sweet things and experienced specific plants and their booze. apiaceae foragers, uses, but hopefully I’ll Wild Flowers (Encyclopedia), by John Akeroyd, 2003 A good book covering most of the important species, is in distinguishing be asked back for some Ground Elder - You are never far from ground elder. Its including distribution maps and decent photographs. cow parsley from more focused articles! flavour profile is surprisingly complex when you give it a hemlock. Although the leaf structure is very similar, the But you may wish to pay particular attention to the chance - and check out its off-the-scale nutritional profile The Forager Handbook, by Miles Irving, 2009 stems are quite distinctive and the real problem is usually following... in the tables above! that the person hasn’t managed to find hemlock, yet Comprehensive coverage of key edible species from a forager’s perspective. Useful comparative tables for look- imagines it at every turn! The hairless, rounded, purple/ Hogweed - Young shoots are the finest vegetable in the Happy Foraging! alikes.

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