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Walking Wales from End to End

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Walking Wales from End to End O Fôn i Fynwy: Walking Wales from End to End 1 Contents Introduction 1 Holyhead to Porth Swtan (Church Bay) (14 miles / 23 km) 2 Porth Swtan (Church Bay) to Cemaes (10 miles / 16 km) 3 Cemaes to Amlwch Port (8 miles / 13 km) 4 Amlwch Port to Moelfre (13 miles / 20 km) 5 Moelfre to Beaumaris (18 miles / 29 km) 6 Beaumaris to Bangor (8 miles / 13 km) 7 Bangor to Bont Newydd (for Abergwyngregyn) (13 miles / 21 km) 8 Bont Newydd to Llanbedrycennin (8 miles / 13 km) 9 Llanbedrycennin to Capel Curig (11 miles / 17 km) 10 Capel Curig to Dolwyddelan (6 miles / 9 km) 11 Dolwyddelan to Beddgelert (12 miles / 19 km) 12 Beddgelert to Penrhyndeudraeth (10 miles / 15 km) 13 Penrhyndeudraeth to Dinas Farm (11 miles / 17 km) 14 Dinas Farm to Barmouth (14 miles / 22 km) 15 Barmouth to Kings Hostel (7 miles / 11 km) 16 Kings Hostel to Abergynolwyn (9 miles / 15 km) 17 Abergynolwyn to Machynlleth (9 miles / 14 km) 18 Machynlleth to Ponterwyd (18 miles / 29 km) 19 Ponterwyd to Devil’s Bridge (6 miles / 9 km) 2 20 Devil’s Bridge to Pontrhyd-y-groes (7 miles / 12 km) 21 Pontrhyd-y-groes to Pontrhydfendigaid (6 miles / 10 km) 22 Pontrhydfendigaid to Rhandir-mwyn (21 miles / 34 km) 23 Rhandir-mwyn to Llandovery (7 miles / 12 km) 24 Llandovery to Llanddeusant (9 miles / 14 km) 25 Llanddeusant to Craig-y-nos Country Park (Glyntawe) (11 miles / 17 km) 26 Craig-y-nos Country Park to Storey Arms (15 miles / 23 km) 27 Storey Arms to Llangynidr (14 miles / 23 km) 28 Llangynidr to Cwm Du (7 miles / 10 km) 29 Cwm Du to Crickhowell (6 miles / 10 km) 30 Crickhowell to Llanthony (13 miles / 20 km) 31 Llanthony to Llangatwg Lingoed (9 miles / 14 km) 32 Llangatwg Lingoed to Monmouth (15 miles / 23 km) 33 Monmouth to Tintern (13 miles / 21 km) 34 Tintern to Chepstow ( 6 miles / 10 km) Total distance: 364 miles / 578 km 3 Introduction Land’s End to John o’ Groats is without doubt the most famous ‘end to end’ walk in Britain. Linking the two most extreme points on the island of Britain – Land’s End in the far west of Cornwall and John o’ Groats in Scotland’s north-east – this epic journey typically involves some 1,200 miles (1,900 km) of walking over a period of two to three months (these figures presume a scenic, off-road route). This is a huge undertaking, and one that many walkers will find impossible due to financial or personal commitments. Cameron McNeish is among them. The outdoor writer and broadcaster has cited ‘the sheer length of time it takes to walk from Land’s End to John o’ Groats’ as one of the considerations that led him to devise an end to end walk across his native Scotland. His route received semi-official sanction in 2012 when it was designated the Scottish National Trail. The demanding trek of around 500 miles (850 km) through some of Scotland’s finest scenery is a distance most walkers should be able to complete in five weeks. It was Cameron’s book Scotland End to End that started me thinking about what my own country, Wales, could offer end to end walkers. Since 2012, the Welsh coastline has been linked by a continuous waymarked path, the Wales Coast Path. From one perspective this can be viewed as an end to end walk, although it entirely ignores inland, mountainous areas of the country. There is also Offa’s Dyke Path, but this is an end to end walk along the Wales–England border rather than through Wales itself. Up to now, perhaps the closest Wales has come to having a genuine end to end walking trail is a popular but unofficial route created by the late Tony Drake. The Cambrian Way is a high-level walk between Cardiff and Conwy which takes in almost all of the principal mountain regions in Wales. Although only 274 miles (441 km) in length, Drake’s trail involves almost 19,000 metres of ascent, so is not for the fainthearted. Given fine weather, however, the route is one that almost all mountain walkers will relish. But here comes the caveat: it rains a lot in Wales, particularly in the mountains. On a long-distance hike of some three to four weeks, there will almost certainly be days of rain and low cloud. In such weather, walking across exposed mountain ridges and high 4 summits is unpleasant at best and at worst plain dangerous. The main problem with the Cambrian Way is that it’s presented as a series of mountain checkpoints that the walker must tick off in order to complete the trail. But you don’t get to choose the weather you walk in on a long-distance hike, so low-level alternatives are essential for all but the most hardy. I also felt that Tony Drake’s route choices – though logical at the time – had failed to keep pace with official developments in Wales’s walking infrastructure. The opening of the Beacons Way, a waymarked route across the length of the Brecon Beacons National Park, is one obvious example of where new official walking trails have sidelined the Cambrian Way as a walking route. Moreover, environmental concerns and fears about walkers’ safety mean that the Cambrian Way – at least in its current form – has little to no chance of being adopted as an official path any time soon. A Welsh end to end? Having decided to walk Wales from end to end, my first task was to determine where those two ends actually were. Using a ruler and an atlas, I discovered that the two most extreme points on the Welsh mainland were the Point of Ayr at the mouth of the River Dee in Flintshire and somewhere on the south-west tip of Pembrokeshire near St Govan’s Head. Adding Anglesey into the equation (it is, after all, connected to the mainland by two bridges) created a very different end to end: from the north-west coast of the island to Lavernock Point between Penarth and Barry. Neither of these potential end to ends seemed particularly practical; nor did they really capture my imagination. The solution, I decided, was to dispense with strict geographical criteria and instead investigate how Welsh people had traditionally defined their country. What did they consider the two ends of Wales to be? A good starting point is the medieval scholar and clergyman Gerald of Wales, who wrote two popular books at the end of the twelfth century describing the history and geography of Wales. Citing a contemporary idiom, Gerald defines the two ends of Wales as being Porth Wygyr (Cemaes) on the north coast of Anglesey and Porth Ysgewin (Portskewett) on the coast of Gwent. This 5 sounded like a more promising basis for an end to end walk, but still seemed a little impractical from a walker’s point of view. Porth Ysgewin may have been one of Wales’s three chief ports in Gerald’s day, but its exact location is not now known. The best guess of historians is the mouth of Caldicot Pill near the Second Severn Crossing – hardly a promising location for the start or finish of an end to end walk. The traditional Welsh expression ‘O Fôn i Fynwy’ (‘From Anglesey [Ynys Môn] to Monmouthshire’) seemed a better bet. Even today, the phrase is used to mean the whole of Wales, in the same way that ‘From Malin to Mizen’ is in Ireland. The phrase also allowed for flexibility in determining the start and finish of the walk. The two obvious trailheads were Holyhead (Caergybi) in the far north-west of Wales and Chepstow (Cas-gwent) in the south-east, both readily accessible by road and rail (and also ferry in the case of Holyhead). A walk between these two points would take in some of Wales’s most stunning landscapes, including the Anglesey AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty), Snowdonia National Park, the Cambrian Mountains, the Brecon Beacons National Park and the Wye Valley AONB. As well as linking the two ends of Wales, it would truly be a walk to remember. Determining the route In deciding upon a walking route across Wales, I was guided by the principle that the paths chosen should be walkable without undue difficulty or danger in all but the most extreme weather conditions. The basis for this decision was that one cannot choose what weather to walk in on a long-distance hike, and I didn’t want to force users of this guide on to high mountaintops in unsuitable conditions. For this reason, the main route described avoids the highest summits of Snowdonia and mid-Wales, but without, I hope, sacrificing the scenic quality of these areas. In fine weather, experienced walkers are encouraged to take in as many summits as possible, and I have outlined alternative high-level routes across the Carneddau and Moel Siabod, as well as potential detours to the summits of Snowdon, Cnicht, Cadair Idris and Pumlumon. In the Brecon Beacons, a waymarked trail, the Beacons Way, provides easier access to the park’s highest peaks, and so these 6 have been included in the main route. Here I have taken the opposite approach and outlined a number of low-level alternatives that may be preferred in poor weather conditions. Throughout Wales, I have tried to link paths, tracks and quiet lanes that are easy to follow and maintained to a high standard.
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