9 Stages -194Km Santiago de Compostela - The Northern Route Northern

Ribadeo

Lourenzá Mondoñedo

Gontán

Vilalba

Baamonde

Miraz

Sobrado

O Pedrouzo Arzúa Santiago de Compostela Herru Sanctiagu Grot Sanctiagu, E ultreja e sus eja! Deus adjuva nos!*

Ultreya, Codex Callixtinus

*Onward! Keep on going! For God and the great St. James! 1. Introduction The Origins of the Pilgrimage

The origins of the cult of the Apostle Saint James remain in the obscurity of times. According to old stories from the Middle Ages, when the apostles were sent to preach, Saint James crossed the Mediterranean sea to preach the Word around Hispania (now and Portugal). Eight centuries later, during the Umayyad conquest of Hispania, a legend spread in the Northwest had it that the Apostle was buried there. The discovery occurred when a hermit called Pelayo (or Paio) saw a star laying on the Libredón forest floor. He told about it Teodomiro, the bishop of Iria Flavia (near the town of Padrón). Both went to the forest, where they discovered an old chapel and a Roman cemetery. The event coincided with the arrival of Mozarabics (the Christian inhabitants of Spain under the Muslim Moorish kings). Mozarbics escaped from the Moorish dominions seeking for a place where they could profess their beliefs. After discovery of Saint James sepulchre, the King of Asturias, Alphonse II the Chaste, travelled with his court, becoming the first pilgrim in the history. Thanks to Charlemagne, the Emperor of the West whose aim was to defend his borders from Muslims, tradition of visiting the tomb (so-called “Campus Stellae”) was spread through whole Christian Europe (mainly during the first half of the 12th century).

Saint James cross

A theory widely spread among experts states that in the North West of Galicia was also buried Prisciliano (his body was carried from Germany). Prisciliano was one of the first heretics executed either by a secular government or civil institution in the name of the Catholic Church, in 385 AD. Therefore, tomb of Saint James could possibly be Prisciliano`s tomb (although the time they lived does not coincide).

2 The Origins of the Pilgrimage

Calls to go on a pilgrimage were also orchestrated by Pope Calixtus II (who also instigated the Second Crusade which came underway five pontificates later). The Pope started the Compostelan Holy Years which are celebrated when 25th of July falls on Sunday. All pilgrims who visited the grave of the Apostole during the Holy Year, which occurs at intervals of 6, 5, 6 and 11 years, achieved the grace of the jubilee: plenary indulgence. Calixtus II also commissioned the publication of an official manuscript to orientate the pilgrims. This was the Codex Calixtinus, considered to be the first travel guide in the history of Europe. The journey sought “mortification of body, increase of virtue, forgiveness of sins and protection of Heaven”. The 225 parchment pages include a guide to pilgrimage routes to Santiago, warnings against eating some local food and native legends (including the story about how Saint James` body ended up in Galicia- more than 3,000 miles from Israel, where he was martyred by order of Herod Agrippa, King of Jews).

After the death of the Apostole, seven of his disciples stole his body (which Herod forbade to bury) and transported it to the port of Jaffa, where they miraculously found a raft (without oars or sails). Theodore and Athanasius boarded with the body. Helped by favourable wind, on a journey of seven days, with Divine guidance, the vessel landed in the Galician port Iria Flavia (north-west Spain). From there, they were pulled inland to the forest where the body was buried, by two oxen.

3 The Origins of the Pilgrimage

Most of the times, the itineraries merely followed the Roman roads, and those were drawn over paths whose origin are lost in the mists of time. Those very old routes were also connected with ancient worships to the Mother goddess, who represented motherhood, fertility, creation and embodied the bounty of the Earth. The name “Camino de Santiago”, -literally Saint James’ Way although in English has been translated as the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago-, embraces a network of itineraries. The diverse origins of these pilgrims gave rise to a total of four main European ways leading to Galicia. The busiest and most important itinerary from a socio-economic, artistic and cultural view, is the route known as the French Way, which enters Spain across the Pyrenees and Galicia via the mythical hills of O Cebreiro. However, there are three other itineraries that have also earned a place for themselves in the history of the pilgrimages to Santiago. They are the Original Way and North Way, of great importance in the early pilgrimage days, with two major routes that enter Galicia via Asturias, from the Basque Country and Cantabria; the English Way, followed particularly by pilgrims, who from northern Europe and the British Isles arrived at ports such as A Coruña and Ferrol; the Portuguese Way, which was used by pilgrims travelling from Portugal up through Galicia’s southwestern region; and the Southeast Way, used by pilgrims who, on their way to Santiago from the south and centre of the Peninsula, followed the popular Vía de la Plata, between Mérida and Astorga, continuing on into the territory of Ourense to Santiago de Compostela.

Galicia

Northern Way Santiago de Compostela Original Way

French Way

Southeast Way, Vía de la Plata Portuguese Way

English Way

4 The North Way

Asturias Cantabria País Vasco

Galicia Aragón Castilla y León La Rioja

The origins of the pilgrimage way to Santiago which runs along the northern coasts of Galicia and Asturias date back to the period immediumtely following the discovery of the tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater around 820. The routes from the old Kingdom of Asturias were the first to take the pilgrims to Santiago. The coastal route was as busy as the other, older pilgrims’ ways long before the Spanish monarchs proclaimed the French Way to be the ideal route, and provided a link for the Christian kingdoms in the North of the Iberian Peninsula. This endorsement of the French Way did not, however, bring about the decline of the Asturian and Galician pilgrimage routes, as the stretch of the route from León to Oviedo enjoyed even greater popularity from the late 11th century onwards. The Northern Route is not a local coastal road for the sole use of the Asturians living along the shoreline. This medieval route gave rise to an internationally renowned current, directing pilgrims towards the sanctuaries of Oviedo and Santiago de Compostela, perhaps not as welltravelled as the the French Way, but certainly bustling with activity until the 18th century. Pasatiempo Bridge. Mondoñedo

5 The North Way

These pilgrims came by land from France, or by sea from Atlantic nations such as England, Flanders, Germany and Scandinavia, reaching the ports of the Basque Country and Cantabria. They would then set out on their journey towards the sanctuary of San Salvador of Oviedo and the cathedral of Santiago. Once they reached Castropol (Asturias), the pilgrims either had to cross the “ría” –inlet– of Ribadeo by boat or travel along the right bank of the estuary to the bridge of Santiago de Abres, where they would enter Galicia. After arriving in Galicia, the pilgrimage route is well-documented: it started out from the town of Ribadeo, which also had a port used by pilgrims, and continued travelling inland through the valleys of Vilanova de Lourenzá and Mondoñedo, crossing the high flatlands of and Guitiriz, and at the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes the pilgrims received the hospitality of the monks, just before the route joined the French Way in Arzúa. Just a few days’ travelling would finally bring them to Santiago and the tomb of the Apostle. The Galician stretch of this Way covers 170 kilometres between Ribadeo and Santiago and is clearly signposted with stones disposed in strategic locations such as crossroads and turn-offs, decorated with a ceramic scallop shell and the famous yellow arrow of the Associations of the Friends of the Way. Those stones contains a vital piece of information for pilgrims: their exact location on the Way.

Sign stone

Jakub Sobieski 1580-1646

Among the thousands of pilgrims who travelled to Santiago via the North Way, stand out Saint Francis of Assis and Jakub Sobieski (1611), the father of King John III Sobieski of Poland, made the pilgrimage via the French Way to León, before taking a detour to Oviedo and taking the coastal route to Ribadeo and continuing on his way to Santiago along the North Way.

6 2. STAGES 1st Ribadeo - Lourenzá

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 30km 0km 194km high

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How to Get There The town of Ribadeo is the starting point for the Northern Way upon its arrival in Galicia. After leaving Ribadeo, the route follows the so-called Camiño Vello de Lourenzá (Old Way of Lourenzá) to then go to Obe, that preserves an intact stretch of the medieval path. It then heads towards the parish of Cubelas, going through , Vilela, Vilar, Celeiros, A Ponte and Arante. Next, the Way leads to the municipality of Barreiros, passing by a series of small hamlets: Vilamartín Pequeno, Vilamartín Grande, Gondán, Curveiro and Cabarcos, and finally reaching Vilanova de Lourenzá. In the Ribadeo-Vilanova de Lourenzá stage there is an alternative detour that covers the Asturian-Galician region of the lower Eo.

7 1st Ribadeo - Lourenzá

Tourist Information The town of Ribadeo, an important tourist centre and the capital of the municipality, is the starting point of the North Way in Galicia. Ribadeo is perched on a natural lookout point, overlooking the ría –inlet– and is the gateway to the northernmost pilgrimage route, linking the sanctuaries of Oviedo and Santiago. It must be remembered that between the 13th and 18th centuries it was considered to be the “protector of the Cantabrian Sea”. Its noble past has left a considerable number of architectural and historical monuments dating from both the late Middle Ages and the Modern Era. One of the most outstanding monuments is the parish church of Santa María do Campo, which originally belonged to the Franciscan convent, and according to tradition, was founded in 1214 House of the Moreno Family. by a disciple of Saint Francis. Also dating from the Ribadeo late Middle Ages is the convent of Saint Claire in Ribadeo, founded by nuns from Oviedo at the end of the 15th century, as well as the Chapel of the Trinity, from the 14th century, located on the lookout point known as the Atalaya. This lookout point was an important element in the defence system of the town between the 16th and the 18th centuries. The route out of Ribadeo follows “the Ancient Road of Lorenzana”, which appears as an “antique strata” on a certificate signed by King Silo (774), indicating believe that it was a Roman Way of Antiquity or a road dating from the early Middle Ages prior to the 8th century, which was still frequented at the beginning of the pilgrimages and in later times. On leaving this coastal town, the route leads us to Ove, which still preserves a stretch of the medieval way, and then heads towards the parish of Covelas, passing through a few villages rich in history and tradition: Ponte de Arante –the site Raised granaries in Ove. of a pilgrims’ hospital founded in the 16th century; also has an Ribadeo interesting chapel with frescos dating from the same period–.

8 1st Ribadeo - Lourenzá

Monastery of Vilanova de Lourenzá

Vilanova de Lourenzá, the capital of the municipality, is a town packed with history, as its streets and squares sprang up around the charitable services and care offered by the Benedictine monastery founded by Count Don Osorio Gutiérrez (the “Saintly Count”) in the year 969. The present-day monastery of Vilanova de Lourenzá is a grandiose Baroque building whose church was designed in 1732 by Fernando de Casas Novoa, one of the great architects of the Galician Baroque tradition of the first half of the 18th century. The elegant façade of the church designed by Casas Novoa between two solid towers may be interpreted as being the precedent to the design of the famous Obradoiro Altarpiece – reliquary in the Church of Vilanova de Lourenzá façade of the Cathedral of Santiago.

9 1st Ribadeo - Lourenzá

Once inside the old monastery church of Lourenzá, rich in altarpieces and devotional sculptures, the pilgrim may visit the chapel of Valdeflores (18th century), which houses the Paleochristian marble sarcophagus dating from the 6th century, imported by Don Osorio Tomb of the “Holy Count” (late V – early VI c AD). Chapel of Valdeflores. Gutiérrez in the 10th century from Church of Vilanova de Lourenzá Aquitaine (France) to serve as his final resting place. The legacy of Lourenzá was enhanced with the chapel of Our Lady of Valbanera and the magnificent altarpiecereliquary from the monastery. The Neo-classical period has contributed the solemn architecture of the main altarpiece and the polychromed wooden images crafted by the renowned Galician sculptor, José Ferreiro. The interesting collections of the Religious Art Museum (sculptures, paintings, gold and silver work, woven fabrics, etc.) are further examples of this town’s rich cultural heritage.

Chapel of San Marcos da Cadeira

10 1nd Lourenzá - Mondoñedo

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 8km 30km 164km low

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How to Get There Leaving Vilanova de Lourenzá behind, the route follows the ancient way that goes across the valley of Lourenzá and passes by the hamlets of Arroxo, Ogrobe, San Pedro da Torre, O Reguengo and San Paio. The Way enters Mondoñedo via the San Lázaro neighbourhood, going through the neighbourhood of Os Muíños and its Santiago Chapel to then continue through Álvaro Cunqueiro street until it gets to Santa María’s Cathedral.

Before visiting Mondoñedo´s cathedral, the pilgrims can wash themselves and drink in the “Fonte Vella” (Beautiful Fountain) that dates from 1548.

11 1nd Lourenzá - Mondoñedo

Tourist Information Mondoñedo, declared a historical artistic site, is one of the Galician Episcopal Sees and its wealth of historical and cultural treasures make it one of the most fascinating cities in Galicia. The Way travels through the quarter of Os Muíños, where the chapel of Santiago is located (1645). It continues along the medieval street of Sindín (1328), today called Álvaro Cunqueiro St., which provided access to the town centre inside the walled city, and which was actually the end of the royal road leading into the city. The cathedral of Santa María of Mondoñedo (13th century) is Romanesque in style with Cistercian elements. View of Mondoñedo Its ground plan has the shape of a Latin cross, with three naves, a transept, three apses at the head, although only the central one remains. The façade has retained its medieval appearance, although it underwent major alterations during the Baroque period.

Façade of Mondoñedo Cathedral Fonte Vella. Mondoñedo

12 1nd Lourenzá - Mondoñedo

The frontispiece boasts the Romanesque porch and the magnificent rose window that illuminates the main nave. The medieval high altar chapel was surrounded by an ambulatory with chapels in the 16th century and was decorated with a large Baroque altarpiece in 1769 and covered with oils murals in 1773. The cathedral houses a wealth of artistic treasures. Starting at the central nave, one is struck by the mural paintings located below the splendid Baroque organs. These frescos are the work of the artist known as the Master of Mondoñedo and they were painted in the Spanish – Flemish Gothic style in the Rose window early 16th century. On the Gospel side of the in Mondoñedo Cathedral altar, these murals depict various episodes in the life of Saint Peter, while the wall on the Epistle side represents various scenes, including the dramatic episode of The Slaughter of the Innocents, and on the far right, The Flight to Egypt. These murals were moved to their present day location after being removed from the old walls separating the choir from the aisles. The south end of the transept has a door which opens on to the cathedral cloister. The pilgrims would rest there, strolling through the galleries before continuing on to visit the church. English Virgin. Mondoñedo Cathedral

The interior of the chapel holds a Gothic image of the Virgin which is dearly loved by the city’s people, and originated from England in the 15th century. It is popularly known as “Nuestra Señora la Grande” or “the English Virgin”. According to different sources, it would appear to have originated from Saint Paul’s Cathedral in London. After this church became Anglican, it was brought to Galicia under the protection of a rich British merchant of noble background, John Dutton, who lived in the town of .

13 1nd Lourenzá - Mondoñedo

This cloister, in the style of Juan de Herrera, was designed by Master Diego Ibáñez Pacheco, who built it between 1636 and 1641, having been commissioned by Bishop Don Antonio de Valdés and the Cathedral Chapter. The cloister is a sober building laid out in a square ground plan, built on a single storey and with a central patio, displaying an arrangement of semicircular arcades finished off with a balustrade decorated with balls. The Doric order respects the classicism of the “hortus conclusus” surrounding a Gothic stone cross, the only remaining element of the former medieval cloister. The ambulatory of the cathedral of Mondoñedo has a number of chapels. The first, appearing on the right, is the chapel of the Holy Sacrament, popularly known as the Chapel of the English Virgin. It was built in the 14th century Typical street in Mondoñedo and is ogival in design, and originally led onto the early medieval cloister. A little farther on, there is a door that connects to the rooms which today are part of the Cathedral and Diocese Museum of Mondoñedo. This museum boasts a magnificent collection of religious art, such as the Romanesque image of Our Lady of the See (12th century), the English alabaster reliefs that belonged to the original main altarpiece (14th century), the altarpiece of Mary Magdalene (dating back to the 16th century and an addition to a 14th century relief), several Flemish tablets from the 16th century, canvases painted by Luis Tristán (a disciple of El Greco) dedicated to Saint Thomas of Villanueva, an Immaculate Virgin Mary by Roelas (17th century), and a number of luxury objects such as the ebony coffer studded with sheets of tortoise shell and embossed silver made in the Philippines in the late 17th century. There are also several parchments of Gregorian chants. Mondoñedo boasts other historic buildings that embellish the streets and squares of the city: the old Town Hall (1568), the convent church of La Concepción (1716), the church of the Virgen de los Remedios (1733), the Hospital of San Pablo (1755), the Seminary (1775), the new Town Hall (18th century), the Episcopal Palace (18th century) and the church of Santiago (19th century). On the outskirts the convent of San Martiño de Vilalourente, “Os Picos”, is outstanding (18th century).

14 2rd Mondoñedo - Gontán

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 15km 38km 156km high

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How to Get There The Northern Way leaves Mondoñedo through the streets of Fonte Vella and Rigueira. It then goes up heading for the hamlets of San Caetano and Maariz and continues through the valley of Valiñadares passing by the small villages of Valiña, Pacios and Lousada. A Cruceiro (calvary) marks the way down to Gontán, where the ascent towards Abadín (starting point of A Terra Chá) begins after having gone through the chapel and the bridge over the Labrada River.

Tourist Information This is a medieval route that develops in the Late Middle Ages.

15 3th Gontán - Vilalba

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 24km 53km 141km medium

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How to Get There From Gontán and Abadín onwards, the Northern Way goes across A Terra Chá through the parishes of Castromaior and Goiriz in the municipality of Vilalba. It first reaches Ponterroxal, to then cross the Arnela River, thus getting to Castromaior and passing through the medieval Bridge of Pontevella that leads the pilgrims to the hamlets of A Mámoa and O Outeiro. The route continues until Santiago de Goiriz, it goes further until As Chouzas and then enters Vilalba, heart of A Terra Chá.

16 3th Gontán - Vilalba

Tourist Information Terra Chá is famous for its excellent local produce (capons and San Simón smoked cheese). Vilalba is also a crossroads, defended by the fortress of the family. All that is left of the defence complex from the 15th century is the mighty tower which has been converted into a Parador Nacional de Turismo –a state-run hotel–. The town of Vilalba was founded in the 13th century although it was not until well into the 14th century that it became a thriving centre of trade and commerce, attracting crowds of visitors. From this period onwards, Vilalba began to compete with , which still exerted considerable San Simón cheese influence. The route to Compostela was therefore shortened, making it unnecessary for the pilgrim to take the detour to visit the walled city of Lugo.

Castromaior Cemetery

17 4th Vilalba - Baamonde

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 18km 77km 117km medium

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How to Get There The Way begins in Vilalba heading towards the Muíño do Rañego, it crosses the Trimaz River via Ponte Rodríguez and continues all the way to Gabín and Pedrouzos. The route goes on towards Insua, crosses the bridge over the Labrada River in Saa and continues until Ferreira de Pacios, finally entering Baamonde, in the municipality of .

18 4th Vilalba - Baamonde

Tourist Information From Vilalba, the Way continues on to Baamonde and Sobrado dos Monxes, connecting up with several royal ways that were well- documented in the 17th century, and which probably were laid out over medieval roads. The pilgrims would rest in this little town and worship at the church of Santiago de Baamonde, an interesting Gothic structure dating from the mid 14th century, whose construction is reminiscent of the Romanesque tradition with its decoration of sculptures. In the atrium stand hundredyear old trees and a Calvary consisting of three cruceiros –wayside crosses–.

Church of Santiago de Baamonde

Saa Bridge

19 5th Baamonde - Miraz

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 20km 95km 99km low

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How to Get There The Northern Xacobean Route leaves Baamonde through the N-VI road, parallel to the railway and to the Parga River. Later on, the Way enters the municipality of Guitiriz, going through the picturesque scenery that surrounds the Santo Alberte Chapel, and continues towards San Breixo de Parga to then reach Santa Locaia. Once the municipality of has been reached, the final part of this stage continues through San Paio de Seixón, Ponte Leixosa and Santiago de Miraz, end of the stage.

20 5th Baamonde - Miraz

Tourist Information The North Way takes pilgrims across the spectacular scenery that surrounds the charming Chapel of San Alberte and the late medieval bridge of the same name, consisting of two lancet arches separated by a central breakwater. The Gothic chapel was built during the second half of the 14th century and has a single nave and a presbytery covered with groined vaulting and illuminated by a slit ogival window. The exterior is noteworthy for the noble ashlarwork reinforced by buttresses and the pointed arch door openings. Church of Santo Alberte de Parga From here the Way passes through San Paio de Seixón (Friol), whose Romanesque church built in the middle of a plain still preserves the original porch, without a tympanum, comprised of toric archivolts adorned with rosettes, an unusual and rare decorative motif in the Romanesque architecture of Galicia. The northern wall bears an inscription informing that the church was the work of Master Juan and was built in the year 1140. In Santiago de Miraz, part of the old fortress belonging to the Saavedra family still stands: a square-shaped 15th century tower topped with battlements which has recently been restored. Near this tower stands the mighty fortress of San Paio de Narla, which currently houses the ethnography section of the Provincial Museum of Lugo. The keep offers a spectacular panoramic view. Four kilometres down the road is the palace-fortress known as the “Torre de Friol”, originally built in the 13th century, which belonged to the Prado family, an old noble family who were descendants of the monarchs of Galicia and León.

Parga Bridge

21 6th Miraz - Sobrado

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 21km 115km 79km medium

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How to Get There From Miraz, the Northern Way continues all the way to Mantelle, A Cabana, Ledro, A Travesa, Pedramaior and Marco das Pías, on the border of the . From this point, through the mountain ranges of A Cova da Serpe, Corno do Boi, Careón y Cordal de Ousá, the Way reaches the Cistercian Monastery of Santa María de Sobrado, in Sobrado dos Monxes.

22 6th Miraz - Sobrado

Tourist Information The monastery of Sobrado is over one thousand years old. It was founded as a family monastery for nuns and monks in the year 952. During the second half of the 10th century, it enjoyed a period of prosperity under the protection of the Counts of Présaras and San Pedro de Mezonzo, who was the Abbot of Sobrado prior to his appointment as Bishop of Santiago. In 1142 the monastery joined the Cistercian Order, whose members practised and spread the values of monastic hospitality, which provided a vital source of support for the pilgrimages. Sobrado was the first Cistercian monastery stablished in Spain. Construction started on the great church of the abbey in 1150 although in the 17th century it was replaced by a Baroque church. All that is left of the medieval church is the chapel of Saint John (1230), in the north transept, the lovely chapter room (1215-1220) and the kitchen dating from the 13th century. The late 15th century marked the beginning of a period of renovation which also affected the church and the monastic buildings.

Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes

23 6th Miraz - Sobrado

The kitchen and Pilgrims’ Cloister in the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes

This renovation started with the building of a new processional cloister in 1560 to replace the medieval one. It had a rectangular ground plan and elevations of two storeys built according to the Tuscan Order. The church sacristy, also built during the Renaissance period, was designed following the central plan and exquisite classic taste of the Master from Santander, Juan de Herrera, who worked on it from 1569 to 1572. This room is located in the southern arm of the transept of the church, occupying the area where, in this part of the medieval church, the original open chapels once stood. It has a square floor plan covered by a half-dome supported by pendentives in the shape of a scallop shell. It is accessed by an entryway in the shape of a semicircular arch of triumph resting on Ionic pilasters. The 17th century saw intense building activity at the Monastery of Sobrado. Renovation work began in 1623, with the construction of the Cloister of the Pilgrims, laid out in a square floor plan and two storeys high, constructed in two superimposed classic orders: Doric in the lower part and Ionic in the upper area. Shortly thereafter, in 1630, work commenced on the new monastery church. Construction continued in 1647, following the new designs of the architect, Pedro Monteagudo, who worked on it until his death in 1700, and who created one of the finest examples of Galician Baroque architecture. This beautiful church, laid out in a Latin cross, has a spectacular elevation in a combination of orders. It also has a dome covering the transept and a façade, of exceptional verticality and harmoniously conceived decoration, which was completed in 1666. The architect, Pedro Monteagudo, was also the author of the Chapel of the Rosary (1673), located in the north transept, forming a magnificent covered space in the central plan with a dome resting on pendentives. Its Baroque style is enhanced by the theatrical effects that play on the atmosphere, decoration, arrangement of the altarpieces and illumination. The rich ornamental details of this chapel are fashioned in reliefs of extraordinary naturalism, orchestrated in representations exalting the triumph of the Rosary over original sin. Following the upheaval caused by the disentailment process of the 19th century and the subsequent abandonment of the building, the Cistercian monks returned to the monastery to restore it and to bring it back to life. At the present time it has been completely restored to its former splendour.

24 7th Sobrado - Arzúa

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 19km 136km 58km medium

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How to Get There Leaving Sobrado behind, the route goes further until the localities of Vilarchao, Peruxil and Carelle, and gets to the hamlet of Corredoiras, passing though a crossroads before entering the municipality of Boimorto through Gándara.

The Northern Way finally merges with the French Way in the town of Arzúa.

25 7th Sobrado - Arzúa

Tourist Information The town of Arzúa is famous in the region for its production of superb cheeses.

This popular cheese is characterized by its cylindrical shape and its thin, elastic, bright, yellow crust. It s colour is between ivory white and pale yellow, glossy, without cracks and with few holes with small size and irregular distribution. Its aroma is milky, with hints of butter and yogurt, and subtle hints of vanilla, cream and walnut.

From here the way follows an urban route. There are documented sources dating from the 13th century that refer to this section as the “Oviedo Way”, and today the street still bears the name of Rúa do Camiño (The Way Street). Here the North Way converges with its sister way and shares both infrastructures and route as far as Compostela, the pilgrim’s final goal. In Arzúa the traveller can visit the church of Santiago and the chapel of A Magdalena, which belonged to a pilgrim hospital and if there is time, he may stay at one of the establishments of rural tourism in the beautiful area around the Portodemouros reservoir. Pilgrims on their way through Arzúa

26 8th Arzúa - O Pedrouzo

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 19km 155km 39km low

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How to Get There This stretch of the way goes again through meadows, oak and eucalyptus trees that surround the small villages, some with Xacobean reminiscences in their names: A Calzada, A Calle, Ferreiros, A Salceda, A Brea, Santa Irene and A Rúa, the latter already at the entrance of Arca, capital of the municipality of O Pino, the last one before Santiago. Generally speaking, the stage goes along dirt tracks, with some stretches through secondary roads and also through paths parallel to the road. The stage is quite balanced in terms of hills and flats and well signposted from start to finish. In almost every village there is a bar where to snack or have a drink as well as fountains at regular intervals.

27 9th O Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela

Distance Completed To Go Difficulty 20km 174km 20km medium

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Santiago de Compostela

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How to Get There The stage starts at the Refuge of O Pedrouzo going towards the gas station at the entrance of the village where it rejoins the Way. It then crosses towards the next village, Santo Antón, where the ascent to the municipality of Santiago begins, going through oak, pine and eucalyptus forests. After reaching the summit, the Way passes next to the airport and starts the gentle descent towards A Lavacolla. A Lavacolla, already in the municipality of Santiago is located very close from the Monte do Gozo (Mount of Joy), a hill from where the pilgrims catch their first glimpse of Santiago’s cathedral.

28 10th O Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela

Tourist Information Monte do Gozo (Gozo Mountain), transformed into an area for pilgrims in Xacobeo 93, has a large monument on its summit as well as the chapel of San Marcos.

The Códex Calixtinus tells the miracle of the pilgrim who died in the Cize Port and is carried by the apostle Saint James to Monte de Gozo.

30 knights went on pilgrimage and all, apart from one of them, gave their word not to leave each other to his fate in the difficulties. But when one of them fall very sick, all his colleagues abandoned him apart from the one who didn’t promise anything. In the Ibaneta stop, the sick men died and his carer, lonely and terrified, saw a stranger on horseback who took them both to Santiago the Compostela in only one night. Once there, the mysterious man made himself known as a Saint James, he buried the deceased and told the survivor he must go to meet those who committed perjury to scold their behavior and demand penance.

29 1 Cathedral-HolyDoo r- Xelmírez Palace 2 RaxoiPalac e 3 Reis CatólicosHote l 4 Collegeof San Xerome 5 Church of San Fructuoso 6 FonsecaColleg e 7 CabildoHous e 8 CongaHous e 9 ParraHous e 10 Conventof San Paio de Antealtaers 11 Monasteryof San MartiñoPinari o 12 Church of San MartiñoPinari o 13 The Deans’ House.Pilgrims’ O ce 14 VaamondePalac e 15 BendañaPalac e 16 Church of SantaMaría Salom é 17 Conventof San Francisco 18 Conventof Carme 19 Conventof SantaClar a 20 Church and formerhospital of San Roque 30 21 GothicHouse. Pilgrimage Museum 22 San Domingosde Bonaval. Museumof the GalicianPeople 23 GalicianCent re of ModernArt 24 Facultyof Historyand Geography 25 UniversityChu rch 26 Church of San Fiz de Solovio 27 Conventand Church of the MercedarianMothers 28 Schoolof As Orfas 29 Church of San Migueldos Agros 30 Church of SantaMaría do Camiño 31 Church of San Bieitodo Campo 32 Conventof SantoAgostiño 33 San ClementeCollege 34 GeneralChapel of Ánimas 3. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA 3. SANTIAGO 35 Chapelof Santiago 36 Church of El Pilar 37 The CollegiateChu rch of Santa Maríaa Real de Sa r Santiago de Compostela

The French Way, the route used by the pilgrims travelling along the North Way to gain access to Santiago, enters the urban part of the city through the district of San Lázaro, which has been converted into a service area housing the Conference and Exhibition Centre, the Stadium, a number of administrative buildings belonging to the autonomous government of Galicia and Raxoi Palace the Pavilion of Galicia, with a permanent exhibition on the Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago. After passing through the residential area of Fontiñas, where one of the largest shopping centres of the city is located, the pilgrim reaches Os Concheiros, the name of the district and the street, with its stalls tended by vendors selling scallop shells to the newly arrived pilgrims. Owing to this tradition the pilgrims were popularly known in the city as “concheiros’ from the word concha –shell–. The historic zone of the city becomes visible from the small square of San Pedro, with its cruceiro –stone cross charasteristic fron Galicia and Portugal–. Travelling down Quintana Square San Pedro Street, from the junction with the Porta do Camiño the pilgrim can see to his right two of the city’s most emblematic buildings: the old convent of San Domingos de Bonaval –where the ‘Museo do Pobo Galego’ –Museum of the Galician People– is located–, which houses the only Gothic church in the city –, the ‘Panteón de Galegos Ilustres’ –The Pantheon of Illustrious Galicians–, and the Centro Galego de Arte Contemporánea (CGAC) – Galician Museum of Modern Art–, designed by the Portuguese architect, Álvaro Siza, and which today has become one of the most outstanding exhibition areas for San Domingos de Bonaval contemporary art in Spain.

31 Santiago de Compostela

After passing the Porta do Camiño, the route begins its final stretch through narrow pedestrian streets and squares. The first street is Casas Reais, where the guild of money changers was once located. On the left is the small, but charming Neo-classical parish church of A Nosa Señora do Camiño, and continuing on a few metres more, the pilgrim finds the extraordinary façade of the chapel of As Ánimas, both dating from the late 18th century and offering interesting collection that are open to the public. The last stop before entering the basilica is the Cervantes The Cathedral Holy Door square, the first large space for meetings and commerce of historic interest in the city, and where the City Hall stood until the end of the 18th century. The parish church of San Bieito do Campo –18th century–, also Neo-classical, is one of the oldest buildings in this square. From this point, the traditional route of the French Way follows the street of A Acibechería, with the imposing façade of the monastery of San Martiño Pinario (17-18th century) on the right, from which access is gained to one of the most magnificent cloisters of Galicia and to the Cathedral through the ancient Romanesque Paradise Door. This door, known today as A Acibechería, was replaced during the second half of the 18th century while work was being done in the transition from the Baroque to the Neo-classical style. The Thurible

The Cathedral of Santiago, whose construction began in the year 1075, is one of the great European monuments from both an artistic and symbolic standpoint. From its Romanesque origins, it evolved through a number of styles, although the Baroque elements are perhaps the most outstanding, culminating in the façade of O Obradoiro (1738-1750). During his visit to the cathedral and surroundings, the pilgrim usually carries out a ritual that takes him to the chapel of the main altar, in keeping with the tradition, to ‘embrace’ the Apostle Saint James –a sculpture of Romanesque origin– and next, to visit the crypt where supposedly his remains are buried. A visit to the Portico of Glory is also part of the ritual, as is attending the pilgrims’ mass at 12 noon, where the swinging of the botafumeiro, hanging high up in the nave of the transept surprises and delights the visitor.

32 Santiago de Compostela

During the Holy Years of Santiago de Compostela pilgrims usually choose to enter the basilica by way of the Holy Door, located in Quintana square. This door is only opened during a Holy Year. After his visit to the Cathedral, if the pilgrim has all the required credentials justifying his pilgrimage, on foot, on horseback or by bicycle, he may go to the Pilgrims’ Office to ask for the “compostela”, the document accrediting his pilgrimage, which is granted by the Cathedral Chapter. After visiting the Cathedral, the place where pilgrims first arrive and meet, they can enjoy a tour of the city of Santiago in all its historic splendour, taking in the diversity and dynamic appearance it offers today. The modern-day city of Santiago de Compostela evolved from a small settlement of monks who were the custodians of the tomb of the Apostle at the time of its discovery, around the year 820. The city underwent spectacular development during the Middle Ages, thanks to the popularity of pilgrimages in Europe, which made it, along with Jerusalem and Rome, one of the three great centres of the Christian world. Between the 15th and the 19th centuries, pilgrimages became less and less important, but Santiago consolidated its position as a centre of culture, learning and spirituality thanks to the founding of the University and the city’s Renaissance and Baroque heritage, mirrored in most of its major historical monuments and buildings.

Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

33 4. PILGRIM’S REFUGES

When registering at arefuge, pilgrims will be asked to present their credential to verify that they are walking the Camino. In addition, upon reaching Santiago de Compostela, at the Oficina de Acogida de Peregrinos (Pilgrims’ Office, Rúa do Vilar 1), pilgrims can present the stamped credential to confirm that they have walked at least the last 100 kilometers, whereupon they receive a Compostelana, a document that certifies their pilgrimage. You can get your credential online, or in the main albergues and churches across the Pirgrimage way. In Rivadeo you can ask the priest to La Parroquia de Santa María del Campo to get a copy for you. In order to gain access to the shelters, pilgrims must pay a shelter voucher (5 €) in each one, which is only authorised for use in the stablishments that were procured and on the date that appears on the front of the voucher. It will not be valid on any other date or in any other shelter. You may only stay one night in each shelter except the Monte do Gozo and San Lázaro, both in Santiago de Compostela. The order of priority is always the same: Pilgrims who travel by foot, on horseback, by bicycle and those with an escort vehicle. Once the voucher is acquired, it is very important to keep it until you leave the shelter. If not, the shelter can ask the pilgrim to vacate the premises. You must leave the shelter before 8 a.m. so that it can be cleaned. It will be open for accommodation from 1 p.m. until 10 p.m. If any pilgrim with reduced mobility arrives, one can request the collaboration of those persons, who are already accommodated after the shelter is filled to capacity, in order to assist in his accommodation in the establishment. However, pilgrims and other travellers have a range of alternative accommodation options. There are a number of religious and municipal centres also serving the pilgrim, especially during busier periods. In recent times a wide-range of modern hotels and rural tourism establishments has cropped up along the different routes which have added to the diversity of the services and attractions to be found along the Way.

Interior of the refuge of Baamonde

34 Pilgrim’s Refuges

1. Ribadeo 5. Vilalba 8. Arzúa Rehabilitated building Newly constructed Rehabilitated traditional O Cargadeiro recreation building* town house* area. Polígono industrial de Cima do Lugar, 6. 12 beds Vilalba. 48 beds Distance from next Refuge: Zona de la Cruz Roja. Distance from next Refuge: 30 km 48 beds 17 km (Vilanova de Lourenzá) Distance from next Refuge: (Santa Irene, O Pino) 2. Vilanova de Lourenzá 18 km 9. Santa Irene Rehabilitated building* (Baamonde, Begonte) Rehabilitated country Campo da Feira, 15. 6. Baamonde house* 30 beds Rehabilitated house* 36 beds Distance from next Refuge: Carretera Terra Chá, 9. Distance from next Refuge: 8 km 94 beds 4 km (Mondoñedo) Distance from next Refuge: (Arca, O Pino) 3. Mondoñedo 41 km 10. O Pino Rehabilitated sacristy of (Sobrado dos Monxes) Newly constructed the 7. Sobrado dos Monxes building* Chapel of the Venerable Rehabilitated areas of the Pedrouzo. Arca. O Pino Orden “Casa das audiencias” in 126 beds Tercera de San Francisco* the Distance from next Refuge: San Pedro de Alcántara, Monastery of Sobrado dos 15 km s/n. Monxes* (Monte do Gozo, 28 beds C/ Convento, s/n. Santiago de Compostela) Distance from next Refuge: 66 beds 11. Monte do Gozo 17 km (Gontán, Abadín) Distance from next Refuge: Newly constructed 4. Gontán 23 km (Arzúa) complex* Rehabilitated building Santiago de Compostela 26 beds 400 beds Distance from next Refuge: 12. San Lázaro 22 km Purpose built construction* (Vilalba) San Lázaro, s/n 80 beds

35 5. SERVICES

1. Town Councils Guitiriz Santiago Ribadeo Rúa do Concello, 4 Pza. do Obradoiro, s/n Pza. de España, 1 Tel.: +34 982-370109 Pazo de Raxoi Tel.: +34 982-120701 [email protected] Tel.: +34 981-542300 [email protected] Begonte alcalde@aytocompostela. www.ribadeo.org Pza. dos Irmáns Souto- es www. Barreiros Montenegro, 1 santiagodecompostela.org Rúa Vila, 63. Tel.: +34 982-396143 San Cosme de Barreiros concello.de.begonte@ 2. Medical emergencies Tel.: +34 982-124002 eidolocal.es 061 concello@ Friol 3. Emergencies barreiros.e.telefonica.net Pza. de España, 1 (general, free of charge Tel.: +34 982-375001 and international) Rúa do Concello, 15 [email protected] 112 Tel.: +34 982-135011 www.lugonet.com/friol 4. Information Vilanova de Lourenzá Sobrado dos Monxes Lugo Pza. do Conde Santo, s/n Pza. Portal, 1 Pza. Maior, 27-29 Tel.: +34 982-121006 Tel.: +34 981-787508 Tf.: 982-231361 [email protected]. [email protected] A Coruña es Mondoñedo Dársena da Mariña, s/n www.sobrado-es.com Pza. do Concello, 1 Tf.: 981-221822 Boimorto Tel.: +34 982-524003 Santiago de Compostela Vilanova, 1 [email protected] Rúa do Vilar, 30-32, bajo Tel.: +34 981-516020 www.mondonedo.com Tf.: 981-584081 correo@boimorto. Abadín Turgalicia dicoruna.es Xeneral Franco, 29 Tf.: 902-200432 Tel.: +34 982-508021 Arzúa www.turgalicia.es [email protected] Rúa Santiago, 2 Tel.: +34 981-500000 www.concello.abadin@ 5. Your phone Nos. eidolocal.es [email protected] www.concellodearzua.org Vilalba Pza. da Constitución, 1 O Pino Tel.: +34 982-510305 Pedrouzo, s/n. Arca [email protected] Tel.: +34 981-511002 www.vilalba.org [email protected] www.concellodeopino.com

36 6. MÉDICAL ESSENTIAL GUIDE

1. How to treat a foot blister

* Clean your hands, the blister and the surrounding area with rubbing alcohol or antibiotic soap and water. * Sterilize and tack a needle with nylon suture thread and pierce it right through, leaving the thread through to prevent the blister to form again. Refrain from peeling the skin as it provides a natural defense to infection. * Once drained, place a plasters on the blister, cover with a bandage and let it heal naturally. * Repeat the same cure at the end and the beginning of each journey. Change the threat may not be necessary.

It is highly recommended to moisturise your foot twice per day with baseline and to use nylon and cotton socks at the same time. Changing, adjusting and drying out your socks and giving your feet a rest prevents blisters. Red marks are a great way for your feet to warn you that a blister is on the way.

2. How to treat Athlete’s foot

Athlete’s foot is a fungal infection of the skin often developed in the interdigital folds of the toes, in the sole and the corners of the foot. It causes scaling, flaking, and itch of affected areas. * After a deep washing and drying of the foot, apply spray Canestén between the toes and left to dry. * You can wear cotton socks afterwards. * Repeat the same cure at the end and the beggining of each journey.

Since fungi thrive in moist environments, keeping feet and footwear as dry as possible, and avoiding sharing towels, etc., aids prevention of primary infection.

3. How to treat dehydration

Dehydration (hypohydration) is defined as the excessive loss of body fluid and and solutes (mainly sodium) within an organism Symptoms may include headaches similar to what is experienced during a hangover, a sudden episode of visual snow, decreased blood pressure (hypotension), and dizziness or fainting when standing up due to orthostatic hypotension.

Dehydration is best avoided or palliated by drinking sufficient water or a mineral drink. It is not recommended drinks very sweet if they are not alternated with plain water.

37 Médical Essential Guide

4. How to treat tendinitis

Tendinitis is the inflamation of a tendon (fibrous tissue that connects muscle to bone) that involve local inflammation and stiffness, aches or pains. * Use of anti-inflammatory drugs (topical route or taken by mouth) is recommended. * Also, the first-line treatment in the acute phase includes four steps commonly known as R.I.C.E. 1. Rest 2. Ice: Apply ice to reduce swelling by reducing blood flow to the injury site. Never ice for more than 20 minutes at a time. 3. Compression: Wrap the strained area to reduce swelling with a bandage. 4. Elevation: Keep the strained area as close to the level of the heart as is conveniently possible to keep blood from pooling in the injured area. Prolonged immobilization delays the healing of a sprain, as it usually leads to muscle atrophy and stiff joint. The components of an effective rehabilitation for all sprain injuries include increasing range of motion and progressive muscle strengthening exercise.

It is necessary to avoid repetitive movements or forcing an extremity with the aid, for example, of trekking poles and warming up before any walk.

5. How to treat a strain or a pulled muscle

A strain is an injury to a muscle in which the muscle fibres tear with the blood vessels that recover it (bruises). The pain is similar to a needle insertion and prevents the movment of the strained muscle. Strains are a result of overstretching or over-contraction withouth warming up properly. *Prevention and treatment are as above.

6. How to treat a sprain

A sprain is a tore of the ligaments (dense connective tissue that links two or more bones) that is caused by a violent movement, after having a fall or get hit or being stretched beyond their oversized capacity. Symptoms includes swelling, bruising, decreased ability to move the limb, and, if the ligament is ruptured, one may hear a popping sound. *Prevention and treatment are as above.

38 7. BASIC EQUIPMENT

Backpack, money belt, wallet, passport, pilgrim credential.

1. Wash Bag Body sunblock, deodorant, tweezers, nail file, small scissors, toothbrush, toothpaste, hairbrush, shampoo, pumica stone and cotton buds.

2. First Aid Kit: Petroleum jelly, ibuprofen, stomach protector, antidiarrhea medicine, plasters for blisters, antiseptic, gauze, nylon suture thread and a regular needle.

3. Other Stuff Sunglasses, watch, penknife, can opener, bottle-opener, lighter, pen, travel guide, head flashlight and extra batteries for the flashlight, book, mobile phone and charger, camera and its charger, reflective bands, plastic bags, clothes pegs, plate, glass, fork and spoon, tissues, trekking poles (two), sleeping bag, towel and household soap.

4. Clothes and Footwear Hat, neck-warmer, raincoat, polar jacket, walking shoes, trekking sandals (avoid thong flip flops), socks, nylon ankle socks (to wear underneath), underwear, swimsuit, a pair of shorts, a pair of trousers and T-shirts.

39 8. NOTES

40 CONTENTS 1. Introduction The Origins of the Pilgrimage...... 2 The North Way...... 5 2. Stages*...... 7 3. Santiago de Compostela...... 30 4. Pilgrim’s Refuges...... 34 5. Services...... 36 6. Médical Essential Guide...... 37 7. Basic Equipment...... 39 8. Notes...... 40

*Stages

Com- Stage Route Difficulty Km To Go Page pleted

1st Ribadeo - Lourenzá high 30 0 194 7 Lourenzá - Mondoñedo low 8 30 164 11 2nd Mondoñedo - Gontán high 15 38 156 15 3rd Gontán - Vilalba medium 24 53 141 16 4th Vilalba - Baamonde medium 18 77 117 18 5th Baamonde - Miraz low 20 95 99 20 6th Miraz - Sobrado medium 21 115 79 22 7th Sobrado - Arzúa medium 19 136 58 25 8th Arzúa - O Pedrouzo low 19 155 39 27 9th O Pedrouzo - Santiago medium 20 174 20 28 Herru Sanctiagu Grot Sanctiagu, E ultreja e sus eja! Deus adjuva nos!*

Ultreya, Codex Callixtinus

*¡Adelante! ¡Continúa! ¡En nombre de Dios y del Apóstol Santiago! de Santiago de Compostela 8 Etapas - 194Km - Camino del Norte Camino Ribadeo

Ribadeo

Lourenzá Mondoñedo

Gontán

Vilalba

Baamonde

Miraz

Sobrado

O Pedrouzo Arzúa Santiago de Compostela