SOUTHEASTERN developed, androadjourneyscanbelongrugged. Elsewhere, whilethere are tomajordestinations,infrastructure goodairconnections isun- networks stretching totheFar East. ofthecontinentwascentre towns testify oftrading todayswhenthispart old Swahili andinother Kisiwani marine parksatMafiaislandandMnaziBay,theruinsonKilwa fishflitpastamazingcoralformationsinTanzania’sunrelenting sun,shoalsofcolourful two Another drawisthelongcoastline. beachesshimmerunderan Here, white-sand deserted withaclutchofintimate lodges, boatsafarisandtop-notchwildlifeGame Reserve, watching. from outsideinfluences. anidealdestinationforgettingtoknowlocallifemakes thathasbeenrelatively insulated elsewhere inthecountry–region remains inmanywaystraditionalandreserved. It travel restrictions have longsincebeenlifted andthewelcomehere isaswarmit a sensitive borderzoneandmanyareas were offlimitstotourists. As aresult –although be inanothercountry.DuringtheMozambican warthesoutheastwasconsidered tobe Arusha’s crushofLandCruisersandsafaricompaniesissofarremoved thatitmightaswell touristsnumbersarelacks thedevelopment arelative andbustleofthenorth, trickleand Time seemstohave stoodstillinTanzania’s remote andsparselypopulated southeast.It Tanzania Southeastern 304 © LonelyPlanetPublications Mafia andtheSelousbothoffer afullrangeofaccommodation andWestern amenities. areAmong thesoutheast’smajorattractions theuntrammelledexpansesofSelous

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Relaxingon thebeachesaround Visiting theruinsoffamedmedieval Exploring traces ofbygonedaysatthe fishorrelaxing Divingamidstcolourful Taking aboatsafarialongtheRufijiRiver ary Marine Park the and ( p322) city-state of and ( p326) tradingtownsof old Swahili ( p306) on white sandsinthe in Kilwa Kivinje Mnazi Bay-RuvumaEstu- (p327) Mafia archipelago (p311) (p319) (p318) Mikindani Mtwara Selous Game Reserve Kilwa Kivinje Kilwa Kisiwani Mikindani Estuary MarinePark Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Mafia Mtwara SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 305 Kilambo Ruvuma Msimbati Palma Namiranga Ruvula Mnazi Bay- Estuary MP da Praia B2 Moçimboa Peninsula Msangamkuu Ziwani O C E A N Game Reserve Marine Park National Park (218km) I N D I A N To Pemba Mahurunga B2 Mafia Mtwara Kitaya Bay Sudi (Mozambique) Mikindani LEGEND GR MP NP Utende Bay Lindi Bweni Latham MP Nanyamba

Songo Mnara

Mafia Island u

a

Kilwa Kisiwani e

Songo Songo t Lindi

Kilwa Masoko a

Kilindoni l

Pande P

Kilwa Kivinje e Mbudya Bongoyo

Kisiju d

00 80 km 50 miles

Mueda Nangade n

DAR ES SALAAM o Nyamisati k

(Mingoyo) Mtama

Delta a M Moçimboa do Rovuma Mnazi Mmoja ὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ B5 Tendunguru

r

e

v Mohoro Kibaha Mahiwa Newala

Nangurukuru i Ikwiriri Ndanda

Mkuranga R

Bungu

Rondo Kipatimo

Plateau Ndundu a

Kisarawe

m

u

Kibiti

v u

Mlandizi

Mkongo R

Utete

Mbwemkuru River Mbwemkuru

River MOZAMBIQUE Ruvu River Mloka Masasi Negomane

Chingulungulu Nachingwea Masuguru

Mpombe Nangomba River GR Lugenda Chalinze A7

Rufiji Msangesi See Selous Game River Matandu Reserve (Northern GR Section) Map (p312) Lukwika- Lumesule

Niassa Ὀ Ὀ Reserve GR Matombo Selous Msumbisi

Dutumi

Gorge r Lumesule River e Fuga v i Stiegler's R Liwale Mikese

A19 B129 a

Kilengezi

Uluguru m Mountains u

Kisaki v

TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN u R

Morogoro Rufiji River Rufiji Mgeta Kipera NP A7 Mikumi

River Tunduru

Great Ruaha River River Njenje River bero River

A19

m Luwegu (150km)

To Iringa SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN

Mbarangandu River Mbarangandu To Songea (170km) Kidatu Luhombero

Mikumi Kilo

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ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA tarmac totheRufiji(wheretarmac there’s nowa turtles have breeding sites alongtheisland’s and fascinatinghistory. Green andhawksbill lodges, astrongtraditional culture andalong pace, stunningunderwater life, upmarket ing destinationinits own right. respiteamenable post-safari andisareward- threatens tooverwhelm . Itmakes an Mafia remains free of themasstourismthat a dozeninjustfew years. Fornow,though, dation hasgrownfromonehotel toover half changing fast– theisland’stouristaccommo- aficionados andatrickleof visitors. That’s undiscovered fishing byallexceptdeep-sea remained off thebeaten trackforyears, tine isletsandglintingwhite – sandbanks of waters, landsurroundedbyturquoise pris- andseductive Secluded Mafia –agreen wedge % MAFIA cially forthenorthernmost camps. northern border,andisagoodoption,espe- transport. public Rovers andoldLand minibuses are theonly and Masasi, there are onlydirtroads,and Mtwara roadbetween apart fromthetarmac towns;see othercoastal between p357 . Inland, journey inalongday.Dhowsplythewaters ring breakdowns –it’spossibletomake the runyear-round,to Mtwara. Buses and–bar- River fromLindi toLindi,andmostlytarmac bridge), underrehabilitation fromtheRufiji to RuahaNationalPark. destinationsand circuit parks,toothercoastal tothenorthern well-linked viaairtoZanzibar, Mafia areuled flights. also andtheSelous Lindi andMtwaraare easilyreached bysched- KilwaMasoko, Mafia, GameReserve, Selous Getting There&Around diving and snorkelling. Estuary( Bay-Ruvuma p327 ) Marine Parks for the coastare ( p309 ) andMnazi for intrepid travellers withtime–whilealong destinations outsideof thehuntingseason ( Msangesi GameReserves p330 ) –offbeat the RuvumaRiver are Lukwika-Lumesuleand isopenfortourism.Along northern sector of southeastern Tanzania, onlythe although ( GameReserve Selous p311 ) covers much National Parks&Reserves 306 The roadfromDaresSalaamsouthis Among Mafia’s attractions are its tranquil The Tazara alongtheSelous’ trainpasses 023 OTESENTNAI • Mfa TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Mafia ὄ Juani andJibondo. andother Toprotect these Kua on Juani. southwestern corner,followed byanotherat Kisimani, onMafia’sduring thiseraat Ras thrive. Oneof thefirstwasbuilt settlements andthelocal economysoonbeganto base, ,itmadeanamenable trading of the seas the RufijiRiver andthehigh delta positionbetween Thanks toitscentralbuffer controlled much of African shoreline. theEast 13th centuriesinthedayswhen Shirazis the11thand first toprominencebetween rose other isletsandsandbars. The archipelago Jibondo (southof Juani)andat leastadozen Mafia), Mafia Chole(between andJuani), Archipelago includesJuani(southeastof In additiontoMafia island,the Mafia History offshoreand are best seen near Kilindoni. Mafia aboutNovember between andFebruary park. Whalesharks( ters, gazetted as anationalmarine hasbeen island, together withoffshore isletsandwa- local ecosystems, thesoutheastern partof the eastern shores and onthenearbyislandsof (30km) To Nyamisati MAFIA Bwejuu Marine Park Mafia Island Reef Mrima Kisimani I NDA O CEAN Ras ὄ Shungumbili Reef Mange Kilindoni Kitoni Nyororo Reef Kitutia Mbisi Ras Utende potwe Jibondo Mbarakuni Baleni Mange Kua Boundary ofMafiaIsland Marine Park Chole Bay 6miles 10km 0 0 in Swahili)visit lonelyplanet.com Chole Mafia Juani Bweni Kinasi Pass Mkumbi Kirongwe Ras SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA Juani 307 is a good is a good , while less aes- Just off the airport Just off road, (Comoros lesser fruit Jibondo (day visitors per person US$5)

fruit bat sanctuary Sparsely vegetated vegetated Sparsely The much larger and heavily vegetated vegetated and heavily larger The much rise, at the beach near Kinasi Lodge. Jibondo is rise, near Kinasi Lodge. at the beach with centre, as a boat-building also renowned the wood coming from the forests of much look centre, In Jibondo’s village around Kilwa. dhow (now in for the giant, non-functional disassembled) and for being the process of of the main entrance to the settlement. Access of to the ruins is only possible at high South tide. lagoon for and nearby is a channel here of and swimming. birding thetically appealing than the other islands, and some- traditionally with inhabitants who are is intrigu- what unwelcoming towards visitors, about ing in that it supports a population of 3000 people although it has no natural water sources. Except for during the peak rainy season on the is collected (when rain water island from run-off), boats ply daily between island transporting large Jibondo and Mafia The best filled with water. yellow containers sun- all the activity is just after time to watch did during the island’s Shirazi-era heyday. heyday. Shirazi-era did during the island’s Chole island place to start especially around its exploring, date ruins, which crumbling but atmospheric on Chole, thanks from the 19th century. Also a local women’s group who to the effortsof important an nesting where bought the area is what is probably East is located, Africa’s tree only on p310) text (see boxed bat). Chole Mjini at the ruins opened a restaurant has recently day visitors. for Chole, has overgrown island, just southeast of but evocative ruins at Kua, including the several a mosques dating from of remains settlement the 18th and 19th during Shirazi centuries, and crumbling palace walls. Also just to the right area the main ablutions note MONEY MONEY MicrofinanceNational Bank TELEPHONE Calls in New Lizu Hotel can be made at networks now reach Mobile Kilindoni. Mafia. Sights imagination to step It doesn’t too much take coconut plantations, back in time on Mafia’s as it going on much here life with village and near the main junctionand near the main in Kilindoni; changes cash only no ATMs. are pounds). There (dollars, euros and •• Mafia SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA (Kilindoni; per hr Tsh2000) At New Lizu Hotel. At New Lizu (Kilindoni; per hr Tsh2000)

Today, farming and fishing are the main the main are Today, farming and fishing

Following an attack by the Sakalava people Following an attackby the Sakalava By the time the Portuguese arrived in the the in time the PortugueseBy the arrived Information Information rious ailments, go to . rious ailments, go to Dar For malaria tests, there’s a village clinic on a village there’s For malaria tests, or for other se- Chole Island. For treatment MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCIES MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCIES INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS Internet Café of mangrove interspersed with patches of of with patches interspersed mangrove of including at Ras there’s beach, Mbisi, where a hotel. western side is dotted with small villages, small villages, with side is dotted western islands and sandbanks, and stands offshore ket lodges are located. The Utende-Chole The Utende-Chole located. are lodges ket base. Mafia’s is also the best divers’ Bay area is Utende, 15km southeast of Kilindoni on Kilindoni on 15km southeast of is Utende, upmar- Mafia’s most of Chole Bay, where market, small shops and several guest- small shops budget market, houses. any size The only other settlement of Kilindoni – where all boats and planes ar- all boats Kilindoni – where hub, with the bank, port, – is Mafia’s rive cashews and coconuts in abundance. and coconuts cashews Orientation ping in the markets, you’ll find cassavas, you’ll find cassavas, ping in the markets, sources of livelihood for Mafia’s approxi- for Mafia’s livelihood sources of whom live most of 45,000 residents, mately while shop- a result, on the main island. As naval and air base. and naval until it was moved to Kilindoni on the main until it was moved as a usedisland by the British, who Mafia lands). Mafia’s administrative seat administrative continued lands). Mafia’s on Chole throughout the Germanera colonial became known as Chole Mjini (Chole City), Mjini became known as Chole was re- Mafia of while the now main island hinter- (the Chole to as Chole Shamba ferred Chole’s star ascended to the point where it Chole’s star to the point where ascended from Madagascar, Mafia’s capital was moved capital was moved Mafia’s from Madagascar, Chole. tiny island of from Kua to the nearby tions that now cover much of the island the island of much tions that now cover were established. Zanzibar It was during this era to the north. and cashew planta-that the coconut palm sultanate, under which it flourished as a as a it flourished sultanate, which under and Kilwa to the south linking trade centre of its significance and had come under the had come under the its significance and of In the early Kilwa. the Sultan of sway of revived, the island’s fortunes 18th century, come mid-19th century it had and by the the powerful Omani of within the domain early 16th century, Mafia had lost much had lost much Mafia 16th century, early lonelyplanet.com SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA beautiful white populated sand onlybysand sions. . It’s on the beach just north of Mafia ofMafia sions. .It’sonthebeachjustnorth Island Lodge. includingfishingandislandexcur- water-based activities, boat) foraccessingalldivesitesfast.Alsoorganisesother the onlyoneonislandwithaRIB(rubberinflatable tobudgetandmidrangetravellers, operator catering US$10 perperson)Aflexible,reasonably priced snorkelling Bay; Single/doubledivesUS$35/60includingequipment, boig only). bookings coral reef ecologycourses (US$400,advance tre foritsguestswhere youcanalsoarrange and CholeMjini hasawell-equipped dive cen- offers divingand instruction foritsguests, Archipelago (see p118 ). KinasiLodge also Prices are intheZanzibar similartothose Centre IslandLodgeWatersports Mafia Big Blu include: snorkelling) also arrange dive certificationcourses and down. Themaindive operators (allof whom shuts sometimes intoJune,wheneverything and theleastfavourable are April,May and bay. Thebestmonthisgenerally October, year-round, divingoutsidethe plusseasonal whichvarious sites isdiveable inCholeBay, often dhows.There donefrommotorised are pelagics, andrelaxing, uncrowdeddiving, pressive varietyof fish, includingnumerous Mafia offers divers excellentcorals,anim- DIVING & SNORKELLING Activities to monkeys, blueduikers and many birds. as well most point,there’s a corner of the island. the beach at make thecoconutgroves yourwaythrough to clear aquawaters. Withmore time,youcan birdsandsurroundedbycrystal- crabs andsea excursions. Oneof is theclosest allthelodgeslic nearbysandbanks; arrange Mafia IslandLodge isthebest),andsomeidyl- the three lodges mainCholeBay (thebeach at come fromtheoldsettlement at Kua. to doorframeonthemosque,said the carved 308 sions, andhasarefurbished dhowforislandsails. andexcur- Alsoofferson Mafia. afullrangeofwatersports ofMoez,aveterandiverwithlongexperience the direction placeunder US$19perperson)Awell-equipped snorkelling Bay; Single/doubledivesUS$40/70includingequipment, IslandLodge,Chole 260 1530;www.mafialodge.com; Mafia At On Mafia there itself, are goodbeaches at OTESENTNAI • Mfa TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Mafia Ras Mkumbi Ras ( % Kanga beach Kanga 0784-918069; www.bigblumafia.org; Chole Ras Kisimani Ras , Mafia’s windsweptnorthern- lighthouse andaforest that’shome inthesouthwestern dating to1892, Mange ( % 022- , with the lifetime of thisbook,includingShamba thatshouldopenwithin built atCholeBay, eral newbudget andmidrange placesbeing to theplaceslisted here, there are also sev- cluded inaccommodationrates. Inaddition you godivingornot.Itisgenerally notin- topaymarineparkentryfees, whether need accommodation,you’llFor allCholeBay Resort. Bungalow marine parkheadquarters, nexttoPole theycanbearrangedOtherwise, through them. bookingthrough by thehotels forthose fishing are prohibited. Licencesare organised limit formostspecies.Spear-gun andharpoon where, there’s although amaximumweight Kitutia reefs. Sportfishing ispermitted else- edge of Jibondo,andaroundthe Mange and southern edges of Juani,along theeastern north of alongtheeastern and CholeBay, along theeastern edge of theislandto ited inmuch of inKinasiPass, CholeBay, Mafia’s northern tip. sportfishing, andbiggamefishinglight from listed above, orKinasiLodge, which offers thediveto strongwinds.Contact operators June andJulytheleast-appealingmonths due andMarch,are September bestbetween with fish, tunaandotherbig-game fish. Conditions Mafia isknownespeciallyforitsmarlin,sail- fishingcircles, Long popularindeep-sea FISHING the hospital (Tsh2000the hospital in a taxi). It’s about1.5kmfrom thetowncentre, behind excursions tooutlying islandsandelsewhere. ming, andtheowner ishelpfulwitharranging isabeach swim- withhigh-tide the cliffside style mealsonorder. Justashort walk down andlocal- a gazeboforwatching thesunset, and spotlesscommunalablutions. There’s also shelter) withmosquitonets,screens andfans, simple butclean budget choice, camping, plus withpleasant whale-shark viewingarea, isagoodall-around overlooking setting aprime in aquiet,cliff-top breakfast US$14) per personUS$7,bandaswithoutbathroom&with camping Kilindoni; 0755-696067; [email protected]; Whale SharkLodge BUDGET Utende, and awayfromthewater. Kilolo neartheparkgate justbefore reaching Sleeping &Eating Within themarinepark,fishing isprohib- Thisbackpacker-friendly place, Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (Sunset Camp; bandas (thatched-roof hutor % /fax 023-2010201, SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA

309 This is ) si ) This new place, which overlook the overlook which s 0754-663739; www.mafiaislandtz is in Utende, just north is in Utende, 022-284 2525; www.mafiaisland bandas, %

( % (

Kinasi Lodge Ras Mbisi Lodge to a stay at one of its more upmarket neigh- upmarket its more to a stay at one of cottages set around a long, manicured hill- setcottages around a long, manicured side sloping down to Chole Bay, Moroccan- in the influenced décor – at its most attractive lit by small lan- evening, when the grounds are ambience, and an imposing – a genteel terns spa with masseuses from Thailand. There’s was just getting its finishing touches as this touches its finishing was just getting book went to print. Accommodation is in tented nine lovely and restaurant also a beachside There’s beach. Emphasis is put on sundowner bar. a rooftop the cuisine, with homemade jams and pre- serves pastries, salads and fresh at breakfast, vegetables home-grown and meals featuring and fruits. It’s a fine, good value and off-the- include Excursions track alternative. beaten dhow trips to Ras Kisimani and nearby is- lands, dugout canoe walks and trips, village whale shark outings. Accommodation prices from Kilindoni. include transfers .com; Chole Bay; s/d garden view with full board US$165/300, s/d sea view with full board US$205/360; with 14 stone-and-thatch another fine choice, bours. There’s a mix of renovated (‘club’) and (‘club’) and renovated a mix of There’s bours. the standard rooms, all lined up at the top of and all the water, lawn about 300m in from the 1970s ar- despite pleasant and relaxing restaurant backdrop. The main chitectural Chole Bay and servesoverlooks up tasty meals seafoodfeaturing and Italian There’s cuisine. well-equipped diving bar and a a beachside you can also where centre, and watersports arrange excursions. .com; per person full board US$140; coast, western in a stunning setting on Mafia’s Jul–mid-April; The long- ) h i 0784-918069; www % ( 022-260 1530; www.mafia

(Kilindoni; d with fan/air-con % 023-201 0180, 240 2683, 0754- ( 023-240 2690; [email protected]; www.marineparktz.com) % (

•• Mafia SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA % ( The former government hotel, this this hotel, The former government ) Entry fees (payable by everyone, whether you dive or not) are US$10/5 per adult/child per day. US$10/5 per adult/child per day. or not) are whether you dive (payable by everyone, Entry fees This dive outfitter on the beach next to on the beach outfitter This dive ) park office They are collected at a barrier gate across the main road about 1km before Utende, and can be and can be Utende, about 1km before across the main road at a barrier gate collected are They The be checked as it will leave. again when you your receipt, Save paid in any major currency. PARK MARINE ISLAND MAFIA the Indian Ocean – in area protected marine 822 sq km the largest – at c. Marine Park Mafia Island ecosystems. and marine channel reef coral of estuarine, mangrove, a unique complex shelters also are There 400 fish species. on the island and almost forest include the only natural These – 15,000 to 17,000 inhabitants with an estimated within the park’s boundaries about 10 villages has been Accordingly, the park their livelihoods. for on its natural resources all of whom depend sustainable practices that local communities in developing to assist multi-use area classified as a is on a diving excursion main way to visit allow conservation use to coexist. The and resource operators. dive with one of the Chole Bay of Pole Pole Bungalow Resort. Mafia Island Lodge Big Blu Diving College Harbour View Resort New Lizu Hotel lodge is setlodge on a long lawn sloping down to a and is a recommended palm-studded beach, don’t stretch or tastes if your budget choice lodge.com; Chole Bay; s/d US$52/75, s/d club US$70/95; lodge.com; Chole Bay; s/d US$52/75, s/d club US$70/95; ai and May. MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END closed in April the following are All of those organising other excursions with Big with Big excursions other those organising and evening is included, bar- Blu. Breakfast with advance notice. becues can be arranged no food. Otherwise, there’s Mafia Island Lodge has soon-to-open en suite suite has soon-to-open en Island Lodge Mafia and rooms with mosquito nets, open to divers i house to your left. house to side road for about 500m to the unsignposted side road for about 500m to the unsignposted bour area, with several less appealing box-like with several less appealing box-like bour area, mosquito rooms out back. Most rooms have with advance no- nets; food can be arranged walk from town. a 10 minute It’s about tice. and go into down the hill in Kilindoni Head turn left, and follow the water- the port area; Tsh15,000/20,000, s without bathroom & with fan Tsh10,000) s without bathroom & with fan Tsh10,000) Tsh15,000/20,000, rooms in a small house in the har- No-frills spartan rooms with basic bathrooms, nets spartan basic bathrooms, nets rooms with food and a central loca- and fan, good cheap junction, less than tion at Kilindoni’s main walk from both the airfield and a 10-minute the harbour. 273722; Kilindoni; s/d Tsh6000/10,000; 273722; Kilindoni; s/d Tsh6000/10,000; Lizu’s’ has clean, ‘Mama standing and reliable lonelyplanet.com .bigblumafia.org; Chole Bay; d US$40; .bigblumafia.org; SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA there’s a resident masseuse. fered, including totheRufijiRiver and delta, pretension. Afullrange of excursions isof- luxuryandlack ofan idealbalancebetween getaway. Theoveralla fantastic ambienceis and withlarge private verandas –make it made completely outof naturalmaterials the simpleeleganceof itsbungalows–all andotherdistractions the lackof TVs ice, cuisine,thepremium placedonprivacy, glance. Butitsquietstyle,impeccableserv- it canbevisuallyunderwhelming atfirst which has stunning viewsover thewater, the beautiful,open-sided fortheexcellentrestaurant Except and Bay. tion onalonghillsideoverlooking Chole amidst thepalmtrees andtropicalvegeta- i www.polepole.com; CholeBay;s/dfullboard US$260/400; boating along the Rufiji. and theSelous visits toMafia withZanzibar, bush camp),aswellpackages combining northern tip(where thelodge isbuildinga including anupscalecampingtriptoMafia’s centre. Kinasioffers afullrange of excursions, beach andwindsurfingrentals, plusadive asmall an openlounge area withsatellite TV, 310 Pole BungalowResort the localvillagers. excursions, plusmarineparkfees andadailyperperson communityfee thatgoesdirectly to initiatives.environmental andculturalconservation that canresult whenthere isgenuineintegration oftourism withcommunitydevelopment and where isanexampleofthehugepositive tourismdestroysanislandparadise,CholeMjini benefits as vocationaltrainingandsmalllendingschemes. scenario Incontrasttotheall-too-common life, areputable andaprimaryschoolhave beenestablished,aswell healthclinic,akindergarten andoverchannelled backintohealthandeducationprojects, thedecadeorsoofproject’s ofearningsare Aportion oftheundertaking. and communitydevelopment isstillattheheart andtheRufijiRiver delta. Kisiwani islandstoKilwa range fromnearbydeserted ifyouwanttoexperiencelocalcoastalculture.night safaris–asuperbopportunity Destinations alsohasitsowndhow,whichcanbechartered forday,overnightseason). CholeMjini ormulti- andthelodgehastwonewboats)ascanexcursionstoviewwhalesharks(infied instructors focuses aroundsimpleseafood-basedmeals,anddivingcanbearranged(bothownersare certi- three people. Althoughthere’s thetree noelectricity, houseshave arangeofamenities. Dining and withviewsover thebay,mangroves ortheCholeruins,andeachaccommodatingupto of whichare lowerstilthouses),eachnestledawayamidstthesurroundingvegetation, actually Island, istheplacetostay.Accommodationinsixbeautifullydesignedtree houses(acouple ( localcommunitydevelopment initiatives,ence, whileatthesametimesupporting If yourideaoftheultimate ambi- getawayissleepinginthetreetops inarusticbutcomfortable TOURISMSPOTLIGHT:COMMUNITY CHOLEMJINI % ) Thisunderstated, classyplaceisset OTESENTNAI • Mfa TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Mafia Children undertwocannotbeaccommodated. Accommodationrates includesomeshared grewThe conceptofCholeMjini outoftheowners’commitmenttolocalcommunity, 0787-712427; [email protected];CholeIsland;s/dfullboardUS$282/420; duara

( % 022-260 1530; (gazebo), Salaam andMafia (US$100),andbetween AviationCoastal Dares flies dailybetween AIR you’ve made arrangements with the Chole Bay you’ve madearrangements with theCholeBay You’ll arrive after dusk onMafia and,unless at 4pm(Tsh5000; three hours) toKilindoni. where MV themotorised (Tsh3000),than about 11amtoNyamisati from dalla-dalla Tatu (bothalong the Kilwaroad,andreached via dalla-dalla coast southof asouth-bound DaresSalaam.Get alongthe to/from themainlandisatNyamisati, The best(albeitadventurous) boatconnection BOAT person –inquire when booking). US$10toUS$30per price atsome,otherwise transfers fortheirguests(includedintheroom basis to other passengers. openonaspace-available guests, withseats which has its owncharter aircraftforits Arusha. TheotheroptionisKinasiLodge, and GameReserve Selous on toZanzibar, two passengers), bothroutes withconnections Mafia andKilwaMasoko (US$100,minimum Getting There&Away All the Chole Bay hotels arrangeAll theCholeBay airfield from Dar es Salaam’s Posta) no later nolater fromDaresSalaam’sPosta) (minibus) from Mbagala or Rangi (minibus)fromMbagalaorRangi

h Jul-Easter; Potwe s lonelyplanet.com Chole Mjini ) departs daily departsdaily , onChole SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 311 , which averages 100m in depth, averages , which In the northwestern part of the reserve part of is In the northwestern Only the section of the reserve north the reserveOnly the section of north Although the number of tourists visiting the Although of the number the Rufiji River, which winds its way more its way more winds which River, Rufiji the in minivans or closed on dusty roads 4WDs your travels. during other parts of been zoned as the south have of areas large hunting concessions. to overwhelm parts of the north. From the parts of to overwhelm – whether by plane, fly- moment you arrive train, Rufiji, by the hippo-filled ing low over silhouet- giraffes, zebras and more watching over against the setting ted by vehicle sun, or – to your bumpy roads lined by small villages notably sce- introduction to camp (most are nic) and to boat and foot safaris, the Selous’ and its stunning riverine wildlife wealth of Boat safaris fails to impress. scenery rarely down the Rufiji or on the reserve’s are lakes Most the camps and lodges. by most of offered walking safaris,also organise usually three- near the camps, or further afield, hour hikes with the night spent at a fly camp. Both the to boat and foot safaris, as well as the chance come as a wel- in open safari vehicles explore been cooped up pace if you’ve of come change Stiegler’s Gorge was who explorer a Swiss and is named after in 1907. by an elephant killed here the past Selous over markedly has increased comparison with low in decade, it remains northern parks, and the conges- Tanzania’s absent. While the north is refreshingly tion of also are concentration and diversity wildlife to be lower in the Selous considered generally is the northern parks, there than in some of still plenty to be seen. of Other advantages the Selous include its wonderful and still very intact wilderness backdrop, its fine collection small, atmospheric safari camps and an of mass tourism that threatens the absence of than 250km from its source in the highlands its source in from than 250km through the Selous to the sea, and boasts one in East areas water-catchment the largest of cuts a path past woodlands it En route, Africa. borassus palm, and standsand grasslands of some unparalleled for the chance and provides In the river’s watching. wildlife water-based lies outside the reservewhich op- delta area, fresh- island, the reddish-brown Mafia posite with the blue salt mixes the river of water the sea, and of forming striking patterns water bird habitats of for many dozens providing and more. species, passing dolphins from the Rufiji River is open for tourism; is open for tourism; from the Rufiji River office at the office stop is along the Potwe dalla-dalla •• Selous Game Reserve SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA connect Kilindoni with Utende Utende connect Kilindoni with north to Mbagala and central Dar north to Mbagala

The other option is bicycle – either your

Between and Chole Island, most of Utende It’s also possible to hire pick-ups in Kilindoni pick-ups It’s also possible to hire crocodiles, hippos, wild dogs, Tanzania’s birds and some of an of impressive diversity rhinos. Bisectingblack it is last remaining and the Serengeti come close. It’s also home come close. also home It’s and the Serengeti buffaloes, elephants, plus herds of to large Africa’s largest wildlife reserve, and Tanzania’s reserve, wildlife and Tanzania’s Africa’s largest although the area, protected most extensive of ecosystems extended a vast 48,000 sq km wilderness area stretch- a vast 48,000 sq km wilderness area the mainland. It is than 5% of more ing over SELOUS GAME RESERVE SELOUS GAME RESERVE Selous – is the southern Tanzania At the heart of from here to Juani, and from Chole it’s pos- from here To Jibondo, sible to walk to Juani at low tide. the lift on one of a free you can usually catch from the beach transport boats leaving water Pole Resort. near Pole throughout the day from the beach in front of in front of throughoutfrom the beach the day Boats also leave (Tsh100). Island Lodge Mafia the Chole Bay hotels provide boat transport the Chole Bay provide hotels for their guests. Otherwise, local boats sail Tsh500 per hour for a heavy single-speed – ask per hour for a heavy Tsh500 market). Kilindoni around at the own (bring a mountain bike) or a rental (about or a rental own (bring a mountain bike) and expect to pay at least Tsh15,000 return be- return and expect to pay at least Tsh15,000 and Utende. tween Kilindoni to take you around the island. Bargain hard, you around the island. Bargain to take In Kilindoni, the Departures from Kilindoni to Bweni are at to Bweni are from Kilindoni Departures 7am. at about about 1pm, and from Bweni about 1pm and Utende at about 7am, with about at about 1pm and Utende in the day – the last later sporadic vehicles is about 4.30pm. from Utende departure the port. road leading down to daily in each direction. On the Kilindoni- On direction. daily in each at depart Kilindoni vehicles route, Utende (Tsh1000, 45 minutes) and Bweni (Tsh1000, and Bweni (Tsh1000, 45 minutes) (Tsh1000, with at least one vehicle hours), four to five Dalla-dallas the harbour. Getting Around Yamaha shop along the main road, on the right the main road, on the shop along Yamaha towards20m downhill as you head side around es Salaam. On Mafia, purchase boat tickets the purchase boat tickets Mafia, es Salaam. On the MV at before afternoon for about 300m. Departures from Kilindoni are from Kilindoni Departures for about 300m. Once at Nyamisati,daily at 6am. easy to find it’s dalla-dallas lodges, will need to sleeplodges, To get in Kilindoni. head straight town, hill up the of centre to the lonelyplanet.com ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ

SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA camps close foratleast partofcamps close thistime, of theheavy rains,andsomeof thetourist Marchcessible between andMay asaresult and inflower. Much isinac- of thereserve the rainsbreak andthe landscapeisgreen andinJanuarysafaris, andFebruary when with Augustpeakforbothboat and land fromJunetoOctober,the cool,dryseason are duringThe besttimestovisitthereserve Information already underway. ofing establishment awildlife corridor– with thefirst stages of theproject –includ- inMozambique, Reserve with theNiassa GameReserve ongoing worktolinkSelous ries. Inmore recent years, there hasbeen 1975 whenitassumeditscurrent bounda- extended over decadesuntil thenextseveral during WWI).Thearea continuedtobe British explorer whowaskilledinthereserve name (after Frederick the Courteney Selous, that itwasexpandedandgiven itspresent itwasnotuntil1922as 1896,although Parts were of asideasearly thereserve set 312 History (65km) To Kidatu 1 3 2 SELOUS GAMERESERVE(NORTHERNSECTION) Kisaki OTESENTNAI • Slu aeRsre TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN Reserve Game ••Selous Game Reserve

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River 9 2 Tagalala Lake Manze Lake 5 8967; www.balloonsafaris.com; US$499; 8967; www.balloonsafaris.com; Lake Nzelekela in the wet season, themainchallengein thewetseason, willbe usually duringAprilandMay. Ifyoudovisit what to expect. the Serengeti –see p218 foradescriptionof lodges. are Thesafaris in similartothose plies; witheasy pick upsfromallSelous fers asthenameim- daily balloonsafaris, northwestern the Selous’ edge. similar. is Africa’s Largest &Wildest GameReserve, Mtemere Gate. Anearlieredition, It’s available atbookshops,andtheSelous’ ing informationandtipsonwildlife viewing. source of backgroundinformation,includ- &LudwigSiege isanexcellent Rolf Baldus TheTravelSelous GameReserve: Guide are openfrom6amto6pmdaily.Thebooklet prepared for mud. flexible,andbeitinerary andexpectations tokeep yourfor landing.You’llalsoneed andairstripssometimes impassable toosoft asroadsaregetting yourself tothereserve, 13 Mtemere 10

Reserve headquarters are atMatambweReserve on

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Mloka

Rufiji Rufiji River SelousPrivateCamp...... Selous RiverCamp...... Selous MbegaCamp...... Selous ImpalaCamp...... Sable MountainLodge...... Rufiji RiverCamp...... Ndovu...... (see 12) Mwagusi SafariCamp...... Lake ManzeTentedCamp...... StationCampsite...... Camp Site...... Camp Site...... Beho Beho...... SLEEPING Selous SafariCamp& B3 Sand RiversSelous...... Jukumu SocietyScout 10miles 16km 0 0

( % Some MinorRoads lonelyplanet.com Not Depicted 027-250 8578,254 h D To Mkongo(50km); 6.30am) Dar esSalaam Kibiti (85km); Selous: 13 12 11 10 (220km) 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 by Drs of- C3 C3 C3 C3 A2 C3 A3 B3 B1 B2 B3 B3

SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 313

(www.selousriver 022-265 0250; www % ( 0754-782378; camping/tent 0754-782378; camping/tent

% ( , just behind, with camping, with camping, , just behind, Selous River Camp Ndovu This laid-back, family-friendly family-friendly This laid-back, , which has a few tents for rent plus plus for rent tents few has a , which SelousCamp Mbega walks – can be arranged (US$35 per per- walks – can be arranged son, plus reserve applicable). where fees Pick-ups The camp is open year-round. free. are to and from Mloka and drop-offs cash only. Road transfers are Payments to/from Dar es Salaam, and the same has another management (where one-way. vehicle, cost US$250 per hotel) ing bath and boat safaris. Bring all your ing bath and boat safaris. your Bring all own food. US$85/120 for those arriving by public bus at Mloka, ex- cursions extra) outside the east- about 500m camp, located the Selousern boundary of Mtemere near and about 3km from Mloka village, Gate good value for money. It has eight provides set somewhat tents in the foliage no-frills with three each back from the riverbank, and a small beds, a bathroom and veranda, you’ll need to camping ground (for which be self-sufficient – food). Excursions with and drives including boat safaris, wildlife yourown transport to get around inside the inside around to get transport yourown Gate near Mtemere reserve. in the area Also several budget are the river and away from camps, although for these,tented you’ll too, to explore your own transport need to have the reserve, and be self-sufficient with food. Two to try are per person per person US$10, mud hut camp.com; camping US$35) with bathroom, boat a ‘mud hut’ bungalow for wildlife available safaris and a vehicle and drives, per person US$10/35) shar- permanent tents plus several no-frills .selous-mbega-camp.com; camping per person US$10, per person US$10, .selous-mbega-camp.com; camping s/d ‘backpackers’s/d full board US$135/190, special US$20 . (s/d (s/d

, one at , one at US$20/5/free per adult/child six to 15 years/child five and under per adult/child six to 15 years/child five US$20/5/free US$40/10/free per adult/child six to 15 years/child five and under per adult/child six to 15 years/child five US$40/10/free Jukumu Society Mloka Best •• Selous Game Reserve SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA can be arranged in in can be arranged US$25 per person (payable only by those staying at camps within the camps within the US$25 per person (payable only by those staying at (camping per person Tsh7000)

ies) ordinary camp sites US$30 US$50/30/free per adult/child six to 16 years/child five and under per adult/child six to 16 years/child five US$50/30/free local guesthouse, which is a local guesthouse, is a which US$10 (US$15 outside normal working hours and US$20 on walking safaris)

Special camp sites

Wildlife guard (mandatory in camping areas) Wildlife Selous’ boundar Conservation fee Conservation Guide Vehicle fee Vehicle Admission at special camp site Camping camp site at ordinary Camping

„ „ „ „ „ SELOUS GAME RESERVE FEES RESERVE FEES SELOUS GAME per 24-hour period. are All fees „ „

About 60km north of Matambwe between Matambwe of 60km north About In Mloka village, just east of Mtemere Mtemere just east of In Mloka village, Sleeping Sleeping small nearby waterfall. small and similar work. There is a pit toilet and a pit toilet and is and similar work. There from a is available and water bathing area, the money earned is used to support local efforts anti-poaching development projects, It’s run by an association of game scouts scouts game It’s run by an association of surrounding the reserve from villages and Kilengezi and Dutumi is the and Dutumi Kilengezi Scout Station Campsite bookings and information on permitted loca- on permitted bookings and information tions. You’ll need to be self-sufficient at these for below text, camps as well. See the boxed camping fees. Manze (northeast of Lake Tagalala). Contact Contact Lake Tagalala). (northeast of Manze for ) in advance p77 ( Division the Wildlife water. water. and Lake Gate between Mtemere the area are no facilities. For both, you will need to no facilities. For both, you will need to are be self-sufficient, with drinking including midway between Mtemere and Matambwe. and Matambwe. midway between Mtemere Each has a pit toilet, but otherwise there Beho Beho about 12km southeast of bridge, roughly one at Lake and Tagalala, Matambwe, BUDGET BUDGET two are There drives and guided walks. Several new lodges guided walks. Several and drives new lodges especially the near future, planned for are near the reserve’sborder around northern here. changes for so watch Kinyanguru, camps offer boat safaris (some on the Rufiji boat safaris (some on the Rufiji camps offer wildlife on Lake Tagalala), others River, All of the reserve’s upmarket lodges and and the reserve’s lodges All of upmarket Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Gate, there’s the basic there’s Gate, potential shoestring option if you have shoestringpotential option if you have Tsh3000/4500) SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA US$310/510; .saadani.com; s/dfullboardUS$200/290,all-inclusive comfortable tents,comfortable each nestledawayon its well-spaced,modation deals. It haseight of someof Travel’s Coastal flight-accom- and excellentvalue ifyoutake advantage is oneof camps, the smallest of theSelous s turecamps.co.tz; s/dall-inclusiveUS$515/890; an armof Manze.Lake well-outfitted tents inagoodlocationalong andfavourablycomfortable situated, with12 more rusticthanitssister campbutquite this placeis ImpalaCamp, theSelous sees Mar) .adventurecamps.co.tz; s/dall-inclusive US$345/580; required duringthe rainy season). fly camp.Openyear-round (advancenotice with thepossibilityof overnight staying ata walkingsafaris andhalf-day boat safaris, terrace and a smalllibrary.Activitiesinclude suite tents allhave river views,there’s asunset about 1kminsideMtemere Gate. The20en location onawidebendintheRufijiRiver than mostof itsneighbours, butwithafine andunpretentiousstanding campislarger camp.com; perpersonall-inclusiveUS$310; recommended. and elling independently.It’sopenyear-round, are verycials) andstaff helpfulifyou’re trav- (watch trainstation forfly-railspe- the Kisaki Free pick-upsanddrop-offs are provided to Tagalala, drives andnight outsidethereserve. bined wildlife drive onLake andboatsafari and wildlife drives, thelodge offers acom- for stargazing. Inadditiontowalkingsafaris a spring-water swimmingpoolandasnug overlookingplus atree house awater hole, including twoluxurioushoneymoon have views.There are alsofive tented ensuite stonecottagesand comfortable all in anarea knownforitselephants.Thecosy the northwestern boundaryof the reserve, Matambwetween village Gate andKisaki on isabout halfwaybe- value, SableMountain most endof the spectrum. and manyof theTopEndlistingsatupper- to TopEndinmanyotherpartsof thecountry, price, withtheMidrange listingshere equivalent wonderfullodges comeatahigh The Selous’ MIDRANGE 314 Sable MountainLodge Selous Camp Selous Tented Camp Manze Lake Camp Rufiji River ) Run by the same management Runbythesame thatover- Theintimate andwell-located Impala OTESENTNAI • Slu aeRsre TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN Reserve Game ••Selous s ) Friendly, relaxed andgood

( %

( % 022-212 8663;www.rufijiriver

( 022-245 2005;www.adven %

( % 022-211 0507;www 022-245 2005;www s Thislong- ) h bandas,

bandas, h Jun-Mar; Jun-Mar; Jun-

s Camp Private Selous managementThe same alsorunstheexclusive as wildlife drives andwalksboatsafaris. aswell (minimumtwonights), walking safaris andthechance forfly-campingand service diningandloungeraised area, impeccable with 12spacious,widelyspacedtents, alofty, overlookingand lushsetting Nzelekela, Lake arm of theRufijiinaparticularly beautiful Mar; US$625; transfers &activities board plusairstrip Camp Safari Selous TOP END can be arranged. tion withRuahaNationalPark. Flycamping and accommodationare offered incombina- Favourably priced packages includingflights sure peaceof mindwhileyou’re atthecamp. rich inwildlife, Maasai although guardsen- towards thewater. Thesurroundingarea is an adjoiningbararea onadeckjuttingout The restaurant overlooks theriver andhas screening foroptimalviewsandventilation. polished-wood floors and270-degree open views, andallare beautifullyappointed, with tent hasitsownterrace Each andrivervistas. palms andsurroundingpanoramaof green of Mzizimia,withitsstands borassus Lake own directly ontheriver nearthebeautiful through upmarketthrough travel agents. Nomad,who full river views.Bookingscanonlybemade rious stonecottages are allopeninfrontwith most renowned wildlife luxu- guides.Itseight if notinprice,and boastssomeof Tanzania’s mostexclusive option,inambience, Selous’ River southof Tagalala, Lake isarguably the splendidlyonitsowntheRufiji set Selous, all-inclusive US$870/1450; made a four-night booking. at noadditionalcostifyou’vewalking safari the possibilityof flycampingand anight’s rience of thesurroundingnature. Italsooffers out thecampisvery much onaholisticexpe- withaspa,andemphasisthrough- the Selous the Great RuahaRiver. It’stheonlylodge in wellsouthwestofset theotherlodges along (atthemoment),this12-tent retreatSelous is inclusive fromUS$770; years of age. only initsentirety. Nochildren undersix and aprivate pool,andisgenerally rented The Retreat The Sand Rivers Selous Sand Rivers ), s which consistsof justfourtented suites ) This luxurious camp is set onaside This luxuriouscampisset

(www.retreatsafaris.co.tz; perpersonall- s

(www.selous.com; perpersonfull (per fullfour-tentcampUS$3800;

(www.sand-rivers-selous.com; s/d (www.sand-rivers-selous.com; s ) Thenewestcampinthe Beautiful SandRivers Beautiful ) lonelyplanet.com h Jun-mid SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 315 and the first stop for the express stop for the express and the first

Coming from Dar es Salaam, the last petrol train, and ordinary trains stop at Kinyanguru closer to are which and Fuga stations of (both (near the central camps) and at Matambwe do pick-ups All the lodges Gate). Matambwe at drive) (usually combined with a wildlife . p361 see varying prices. For schedules, the other direction, the last reliable petrol petrol the last reliable the other direction, station (about 160km from is at Morogoro post). Occasionally ranger the Matambwe you may find diesel on the roadside at sold If you Morogoro. 50km south of Matombo, around the Selous,plan to drive bring suffi- is none cient petrol supplies with you as there nor anywhere the lodges, at any of available the reserve. close to TRAIN The train is a good option for the adventurous, staying on the northwestern especially if you’re the reserve,side of and with luck, you may the wildlife some of of a sneak preview even get trains stop from the train window. All Tazara from to six hours five is about at Kisaki, which Dar es Salaam ficult section the rains due to to pass during is – Kisaki there before Shortly poor drainage. the dry seasonexcept for at the height of – isn’t usually too to cross, which a small river apart from the steep a problem, of much to Allow between five bank on the far side. from Morogoro to for the stretch eight hours on the season. depending Matambwe, If you and want to coming from Dar es Salaam are the an unsignposted bypass Morogoro, take 25km east about left-hand turn-off via Mikese, town on the main Dar es Salaam road that of at Msumbisi. meets up with the Kisaki road station 100km northeast is at Kibiti (about although Gate), supplies aren’t Mtemere of (otherwise try Ikwiriri). Coming from reliable at least nine hours for the journey. This route This route for the journey. nine hours at least but is still some- times, in recent has improved a rains and times impassable during heavy From the year. at any time of 4WD is required the road is good tarmacDar es Salaam, as far the take Once in Morogoro, as Morogoro. Bigwa. Salaam road east towards Old Dar es town, of or 4km from the centre 3km About and be- Morogoro College past the Teachers’ come to a fork Bigwa, you will reaching fore you bear right. From here, in the road, where the road becomes steep and rough as it winds its way through the Uluguru Mountainsonto is usually the most dif-a flat plain, which with bandas •• Selous Game Reserve SOUTHEASTERN TANZA (www.behobeho.com; per person all-inclusive (www.behobeho.com;

Beho Beho, set on a rise northwest ) s

Beho Beho

Alternatively, you can go from Dar es you can go from Dar es Alternatively, To get here via road, there are two options. are via road, there here To get route through the Uluguru Mountains.route Allow Salaam to Kisaki via Morogoro and then on 350km via a scenic, but longer, to Matambwe Mtemere (75km) is sometimes impassable Mtemere eight rains. Allow about hours during heavy es Salaam. from Dar road, via Kibiti, and then on to Mtemere road, via Kibiti, and then on to Mtemere to good (250km). The road is in reasonable From Mkongo to shape as far as Mkongo. The first: take the Dar es Salaam to Mkongo take The first: CAR & MOTORCYCLE CAR & MOTORCYCLE You’ll need 4WD in the Selous. no There’s at the reserve rental motorcycles and vehicle permitted. aren’t one of the camps. Note that hitching within that hitching the camps. Note one of no are the Selous and there isn’t permitted, in Mloka. to rent vehicles need to arrange a pick-up in advance with need to arrange the Sudan Market area) and Mloka village, and Mloka village, area) the Sudan Market (Tsh4500, Gate Mtemere about 10km east of in both seven Departures to nine hours). at 5am. From Mloka, you’ll are directions bus lines have daily buses between Dar es bus lines have bus stand (departing from Salaam’s Temeke BUS BUS option) and Mwera/Mloka Akida (the better All lodges provide airfield transfers. provide All lodges Flights sus- into the Selous generally are season. wet to May pended during the March Selous and Ruaha National Park (US$270). Selous Park and Ruaha National Salaam (US$140 one-way), ZanzibarSalaam (US$140 one-way), (US$160) connections to with and (via Dar) Arusha, Coastal also other northern circuit airstrips. flies between the and the Selousand Mafia, and ZanAir daily flights have Coastal Aviation linking Selous Game Reserve with Dar es Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR plains. Boat safaris are done on Lake Tagalala, done on Lake Tagalala, plains. Boat safaris are as well as its is notablewhich for its birdlife, and crocodiles. hippos populations of with spacious stone and thatch stone and thatch with spacious the views over and commanding verandas large of Lake Tagalala and well away from the river, is the river, and well away from Lake Tagalala of the Selous, camps in the most upmarket one of run the camp, also offer superlative walking walking superlative offer camp, also run the mobile based to six days up safaris of out of fly camps. lonelyplanet.com US$900; SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA main road, near the market. nets andsquattoilets. It’s300meastof the withbasicrooms, fans,Strictly shoestring, GuestHouse Hilton BUDGET Sleeping extensive limestone 85km northwestof KilwaatKipatimoare Resort.Aboutarranged withKilwaSeaview their birdlife andresident hippos–canbe on theoutskirtsof Kilwa–interesting for someofsions through themangrove swamps especially inthelate afternoon. Dhowexcur- the colourfulharbourarea isworthalook, also where KilwaMasoko gets its fish, and (Tsh5000bicycle ortaxi one-way).Thisis 5km northeastof town,andbestreached by lic palm-fringed beach at Health Centre. Much better isthelong,idyl- that headsdownhillbytheMasoko Urban occasional baobabtree; it’sreached viaapath an attractive stretch of dotted sand withthe On theeastern edge of townis Sights &Activities tion or ATM. changes cash.There’s nointernet connec- starting to increase. hotels, visitor numbers toKilwaare slowly Dar esSalaamandthearrivalof new several plus therehabilitation of roadfrom thecoastal tive bytheFrench andJapanese governments, creation, withminimal historical appeal. isarelatively thetownitself although modern history, Africancoastal significant erasinEast and assuch, isthegateway intooneof themost tlements atKilwaKisiwaniandSongoMnara, impressive ruinsof the15th-centuryArab set- Mtwara. It’sthespringboardforvisiting DaresSalaamand about halfwaybetween vegetation finestretches andseveral of beach coastal townnestledamidstdense coastal Kilwa Masoko (Kilwaof theMarket) isasleepy % KILWA MASOKO progress with their radios. Salaam. Thelodges canhelpyoumonitorits delays of upto20hours goingbacktoDares to doittheotherwayaround,beprepared for Ifyoudecide GameReserve. Salaam toSelous 316 The It worksbesttotake thetrainfromDares Thanks toanarchaeological/tourism initia- 023 OTESENTNAI • KlaMsk TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN Masoko ••Kilwa National Microfinance Bank National Microfinance (r Tsh4000, withoutbathroomTsh3000)

caves . Masoko Pwani Masoko JimbiziBeach

(Main Rd) (Main , about

, have tworoomssharing abathroom andcom- what nicer the mainbuilding sharing facilitiesandsome- of withafew localguesthouses, basic roomsin the honourof being thebestof Kilwa’sclutch undistinguishedplace holds This otherwise s withoutbathroomTsh3000, s/dbandaTsh10,000/20,000) 4 1 3 2 5 KILWA MASOKO To KilwaKivinje(25km); New Mjaka Guest House New Mjaka Nangurukuru (35km); Lindi (200km);Dar es Salaam(320km) 9 Kipatimo (84km); TRANSPORT EATING &DRINKING SLEEPING INFORMATION Jetty &BoatstoKilwaKisiwani,SongoMnara Transport toKilwaKivinje&Nangurukuru...... A1 Taxi Stand...... (see11) Office...... Sudi TravelAgency&CoastalAviationBooking Pande...... Buses toDaresSalaam...... Roadside ClassicPark...... Night Market...... Kilwa RuinsLodge...... (see4) New MjakaGuestHouse...... Kilwa RuinsLodge...... Hilton GuestHouse...... National MicrofinanceBank...... District Commissioner'sOffice...... Anglican Church A ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ 1 bandas 5 Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Station Police

nextdoor. Some Bank St Bank 7 Barracks 2 10 Police 11 Airstrip Market 8

1km 0.5miles 0 0

Lumumba St Lumumba Mapinduzi St Mapinduzi Health (

Clinic %

6 J St Kariakoo imb 4 izi 023-201 3071; Main Rd; 023-201 3071;Main B ea

c 3 I NDA O CEAN

h Catholic Some MinorRoads Church Not Depicted B To KilwaSeaview Resort (200m) Kilwa Dreams Pwani (4km); 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 To Masoko bandas A1 A3 B2 A2 B2 A2 B3 B2 A2 A3 (4km)

SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA

Sudi 023- 317 night % (

, north of , north of to ‘Mbagala to ‘Mbagala Kilwa Ruins Lodge have good restaurants. good restaurants. have (Main Rd; meals from Tsh1000), (Jimbizi Beach; breakfast Tsh3000, (Jimbizi Tsh3000, Beach; breakfast

dalla-dalla 023-201 3004; Main Rd) and % (

, between the main street and the mar- , between the main street To Dar es Salaam, there is at least one is at least one To Dar es Salaam, there cruises’ for US$1600 per boat (4-person) per cruises’ (4-person) per boat for US$1600 Mwisho’), along the Kilwa road. Coming Mwisho’), along the Kilwa road. Coming from Dar es Salaam it’s also possible to get from Dar es Salaam it’s also possible to get a bus heading to Lindi or Mtwara and get out at Nangurukuru junction, from where local transport to Kilwa Kivinje you can get (35km), 11km) or Kilwa Masoko (Tsh500, need to pay the full Lindi although you’ll often BUS BUS To Nangurukuru (the junction with the Dar- one hour) and Kilwa Mtwara road, Tsh2000, pick-ups de- 45 minutes), Kivinje (Tsh1800, part several times daily from the transport the stand road just north of on the main taxis for This is also the place to hire market. local excursions. bus daily (stopping also in Kilwa Kivinje), at about 5am direction in each departing Buses from Kilwa de- six hours). (Tsh7000, be booked and should part from the market, in Dar es Salaam Departures the day before. bus stand(Sudan Market from the Temeke are with smaller buses also departing from area), a Mbagala (take diagonally opposite New Mjaka Guest House, New Mjaka diagonally opposite or the lively with local food and a bar, market fish and other street with inexpensive ket, dusk onwards. snacks from Getting There & Away AIR has daily flights between Dar Coastal Aviation one-way) and es Salaam and Kilwa (US$120 (US$100, minimum between Kilwa and Mafia Book throughtwo passengers). their Dar es ), or in Kilwa through p88 ( Salaam office Travel Agency day, all-inclusive, plus local excursions in the excursions plus local day, all-inclusive, game fishing season The big runs Kilwa area. well in to early April. Book July from late the late plan on visiting during advance if you season.peak October Eating & Drinking Kilwa Seaview Resort advance bookings required) try and chips, fish/chicken For inexpensive Roadside Classic Park lunch/dinner Tsh8000) the petrol station. The airstrip is about 2km the petrol station. airstrip The main road. town along the north of 240 2397, 0784-637026; Jimbizi Beach; meals from Tsh9000; Beach; meals from Tsh9000; 240 2397, 0784-637026; Jimbizi and bandas’ . All are on the . All are 022-265 0250; www Straightforward, Straightforward, ) % ( bandas’ 023-240 2397, 0784-637026; s

% (

0784-585330; www.kilwadreams.com; •• Kilwa Masoko SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA This upmarket angling camp This upmarket ) % (

as A handful of bright blue, spartan A handful of bun- Kilwa Ruins Lodge Kilwa Ruins Lodge Kilwa Seaview Resort Kilwa Seaview Resort can organise overnight diving/fishing ‘island diving/fishing overnight can organise angler. The camp also has its own plane for angler. and sea kayaks, and for hire a vehicle charters, per boat per day, depending on boat and loca- is a renowned manager tion – and the resident There’s a full array of fishing equipment – big a full array of There’s costs from US$350 to US$800 game fishing a few spiffy a few ‘fisherman bland side, but spotless and well-equipped hot water). don’t have (although the chalets Accommodation is in a choice of rustic ‘cha- of Accommodation is in a choice ‘beach modern lets’, nicer, more is well-located in the centre of Jimbizi beach, beach, Jimbizi of in the centre is well-located area. bar-restaurant with a popular waterside www.kilwaruinslodge.com; Jimbizi Beach; per person full board US$80-120; p313 ) cost US$250 per vehicle one-way. vehicle ) cost US$250 per p313 to/from Dar es Salaam or to Selous Mbega Camp see (under the same management, leading up to the cottages. Pick-ups can be ar- leading up to the cottages. from the bus stand in town. Transfers ranged the police barracks and health clinic down the hill by Kilwa Ruins to Jimbizi Beach. At the is a small path the beach end of northeastern near the police station, making your way past road. By foot, the quickest way to get here here way to get road. By foot, the quickest from the bus stand is to head south along the main road (towards the port), then turn left the hippos in the nearby mangroves. Driving, the hippos in the nearby mangroves. from the main the access turnoff is signposted away. Staff excur- helpful with arranging are Kisiwani, and to seesions, including to Kilwa around a huge baobab tree with local-style tree baobab around a huge walk is just a short menus, and the beach fixed waterfront cottages and a row of double-story a row of and cottages waterfront balconies on with bungalows, just behind, built a restaurant the upper level. There’s perched along a small escarpment at the east- perched breezy including six Jimbizi beach, ern end of transfers per vehicle Tsh5000; per vehicle Tsh5000; transfers cottages A-frame pleasant and good-value .kilwa.net; Beach; camping per person US$5; s/d/tr/q Jimbizi person US$15 extra;US$60/70/80/90, full board per airport galows with nets, cold water and no electricity and no electricity nets, cold water galows with settingin an idyllic at Masoko on the beach bar-restaurant. beachside Pwani, and a Masoko bungalow per person US$10, d/f Pwani; camping US$50/75) MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Kilwa Dreams mon area while others are standard doubles. are while others mon area food. no nets. There’s fan and All have lonelyplanet.com SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA came to control Sofala andtodominate its the southinpresent-day Mozambique. Kilwa with Sofala,trade linksdeveloped 1500kmto place untiltheearly 13thcentury.Atthistime, Kilwa remained arelatively undistinguished intheareasettlements date toaroundAD800, thefirst foundontheisland. Although been facts fromthelate andmiddleStoneAge have years, thousand andarte-habited forseveral in- The coastnearKilwaKisiwanihas been HISTORY English and Swahili. ily accessible,withinformative signboardsin ruins have restored, been andare noweas- governments, of significantsections the to fundingfromtheFrench andJapanese and aUnescoWorldHeritage site. Thanks Africancoast Swahili buildingsontheEast are among themostsignificantgroupsof with theruinsonnearbySongoMnara– past, theruinsof – together thesettlement coast. Mozambican and southasfarSofala onthecentral Archipelago tended north pasttheZanzibar Kilwa’sinfluenceex- structed. Atitsheight, being exceptionallybeautifulandwellcon- early 14thcenturyanddescribedthetownas of theancientworld,visited Kilwainthe thefamedtravellerBattuta, andchronicler Zimbabwe withPersia, Indiaand China. Ibn old Shona kingdomsandthegoldfieldsof centre of avasttradingnetworklinkingthe of and sultans its heydayitwastheseat fromKilwaMasoko,just off-shore butin is aquietfishing village bakinginthesun Today, Kilwa Kisiwani(KilwaontheIsland) Kilwa Kisiwani AROUND KILWAMASOKO at thesouthernend of town. Songo MnaraandPande leave fromthejetty in KilwaKivinje. BoatstoKilwaKisiwani, ices to/fromKilwa. Dhowsare bestarranged There are noscheduled passenger-boat serv- BOAT a day in advance. market andcontinuingontoMtwara;book (Tsh7000, fourhours), departingfromthe pass Nangurukuru(from about 11am). areing Kilwa,asbuses often fullwhenthey or Mtwarafare. workaswell leav- Thisdoesn’t 318 While these glorydaysareWhile these nowwellinthe To Lindi,there’s atleastonedirect busdaily OTESENTNAI • Aon iw aoo TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN Masoko ••AroundKilwa Antiquities Officer in,it’sbesttogointhe Antiquities Officer yourchancesTo maximise of findingthe permit isissued withoutfuss whileyouwait. the (AntiquitiesOffice); Ofisi yaUtamaduni agonally opposite thepostoffice. Ask forthe h Commissioner’s office mit (perperson Tsh1500) fromthe togetTo visittheruins,youwillneed aper- INFORMATION recovered. never island townentered adeclinefromwhich it to KilwaKivinjeonthemainland,and thefocusof regionalZanzibar, trade shifted ofthe localrulerhadsuccumbedtosultan ofthe Sultan Oman.Bythemid-19thcentury, In the1780s,Kilwacameundercontrolof islands of Mauritius, RéunionandComoros. slaves beingshipped fromthemainlandto trading centre, thistimeasanentrepôt for ence andonceagainbecameasignificant years later thatKilwaregained itsindepend- Itwasn’tuntilmorePortuguese. than200 century Kilwacameunderthecontrolof the island’s dominance,andintheearly16th began toturn.Sofala freedfromthe itself the Swahili coast. become themostpowerfultradecentre along lucrative goldtrade,andbefore longithad the southwest of thefort are the ruinsof the fort datingfrom the early16thcentury.To Omani Arabs, onthesite of aPortuguese It wasbuiltinthe early19thcenturybythe building you’llfind istheArabic When approaching KilwaKisiwani,thefirst The ruinsat Kilwa Kisiwaniare intwogroups. THE RUINS island. the ruinsat Kilwa Kisiwani. Salaam hasasmallbutworthwhiledisplayon inDares manuscript. TheNationalMuseum home foracopyof HNChittick’sinformative the ruins,lookonweborinlibrariesat orKilwa Office Hotel. Seaview the island,arranged theAntiquities through tobeaccompaniedbyaguidevisit need permits outsideof workinghours. You’llalso who isusuallyquite graciousaboutissuing can helpyoutrackdownthepermitofficer, Hotel morning. Onweekends, KilwaSeaview There are notouristfacilitiesonthe In thelate 15thcentury,Kilwa’sfortunes For detailed informationinEnglishabout For detailed 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri)

(Halmashauri ya Wilaya ya Kilwa; yaWilayaKilwa; (Halmashauri in KilwaMasoko, di- lonelyplanet.com fort ( gereza District District ). SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 319 . The boma it- , with additional , with additional Boma , between Sanje Majoma Sanje ya Kati The best way to get to Songo Mnara is via to Songo The best way to get The most interesting section of town is town is section of The most interesting After landing at Songo Mnara, be prepared be prepared landing at Songo Mnara, After The Kilwa Kisiwani permit includes permit includes The Kilwa Kisiwani considered in some respects to be more sig- to be more respects in some considered picking your way through the rubble and picking your way through the rubble and floor for the to the first climbing the stairs behind The street view towards the water. the boma is lined with small houses, many with carved doorways. Nearby Zanzibar-style Kilwa Kivinje Kilwa Kivinje the Casuarina Trees) Kilwa Kivinje (Kilwa of to Omani Arabs from Kilwa owes its existence Kisiwani who set in the early up a base here the Kilwa 19th century following the fall of By the mid19th century the settle-sultanate. slave the regional ment had become the hub of 19th century, trading network, and by the late With the centre. a German administrative trade, and German the slave abolishment of Kilwa Kivinje’s brief period wartime defeats, in the spotlight came to an end. Today, it’s a and atmospheric crumbling, moss-covered with a Swahili small-town feel the past of relic German colonial of and an intriguing mixture Arab architecture. and Omani around the old German motorboat from Kilwa Masoko, arranged arranged Masoko, motorboat from Kilwa through or office Commissioner’s the District with Kilwa Seaview (US$80 per dhow, Hotel there’s Alternatively, people). maximum five motorised that de- local dhow cheaper a much between about 6am and parts Kilwa Masoko and will stop Pande, 8am most mornings to luck, the With at Songo Mnara. on request the same day, to Kilwa Masoko boat returns 1pm. Dhows between about departing Pande about take and Songo Mnara Kilwa Masoko decent wind. with a hours two to three swamps before to wade through mangrove island proper. the reaching but it’s worth self dilapidated, is completely nificant architecturally than those at Kilwa architecturally nificant the most complete with one of Kisiwani – along the coast, althoughtown layouts they’re off Just the island’s visually impressive. less side is western from the sameruins dating The small period. island of some lesser has ruins of and Kilwa Masoko, also believed to a third settlement area, in the same era. from the date no accommodation There’s Songo Mnara. the island. on , a large, , a large, , the old- dating from the dating from Makutani Husuni Ndogo , with its columns and its columns , with mosque •• Around Kilwa Masoko SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA , once a massive complex of complex of , once a massive Great Mosque

Almost 1.5km from the fort along the coast Almost 1.5km from the Husuni Kubwa including of a palace, several mosques and including of believed to date numerous houses – that are from the 14th and 15th centuries. They are Tiny Songo Mnara, about 8km south of Kilwa south of 8km Songo Mnara, about Tiny Kisiwani, contains ruins at its northern end – Songo Mnara Songo Mnara utes. Kilwa Seaview Hotel arranges excursions Kilwa Seaview excursions utes. arranges Hotel (minimum two people), for US$20 per person boat costs. including guide, permit and in the small office just right of the entry gate. the entry gate. right just in the small office of about 20 min- With a good wind, the trip takes There is a Tsh300 port fee for tourists, payable for tourists, payable port fee is a Tsh300 There need to arrange your permit the day before. To your permit the day before. need to arrange one way your own boat costs Tsh1000 charter for a boat with a motor). return (Tsh10,000 are enough passengers – usually only in the enough passengers are means you’ll 7am, which early morning, about Local boats go from the port at Kilwa Masoko Local boats go from the port at Kilwa Masoko whenever there to Kilwa Kisiwani (Tsh200) GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE of its original function. To reach these ruins, its original function. To reach of at low tide or you can walk along the beach inland route. follow the slightly longer and is thought to date from about the same from about and is thought to date not yet sure time, although are archaeologists Husuni Ndogo is smaller than Husuni Kubwa earlier, is set on a hill and must have once earlier, is set on a hill and must have the bay. Watch views over commanded great in particular for the octagonal bathing pool. est of Kilwa’s ruins. The complex, which is ruins. The complex, which Kilwa’s est of century or from the 12th to date estimated buildings covering almost a hectare and, and, almost a hectare buildings covering with nearby together is walled enclosure in the centre of which lived lived which of in the centre walled enclosure It is estimated Kilwa. sultans the of some of mid18th century. from the to date lawns and placid views over the water, are the are the water, lawns and placid views over the of crumbling remains has also been impressively restored. To the restored. has also been impressively green the small mosque, with large, west of early 15th century. This is considered to be the is considered early 15th century. This best preserved buildings at Kilwa and the of coast. Further southwest and behind the Great the Great southwest and behind coast. Further smaller Mosque is a beautiful beautiful has which of much roofing, vaulted graceful Some sections of restored. been impressively al- 13th century, to the late date the mosque to the from additions made though are most day, this the 15th century. In its building in mosque on the East African was the largest lonelyplanet.com SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 320 the Ramsar Convention. Thebest beach isin the Ramsar Wetland of International under Importance around KilwaMasoko have declared been a the Mafiadelta, Archipelago andthecoastline pelago, together withthenearbyRufijiRiver collection of hardandsoft corals. Thearchi- surrounding waters alsohostanimpressive turtles andmarinebirds.The for nestingsea Archipelago, area anecologicallyimportant surrounding islets,itformstheSongo Songo this 4sqkmisland.Together withseveral htm formore) are themainattractionson www.tpdc-tz.com/songo_songo.Project (see as partof theSongoGas toElectricity major natural-gas fieldthatisbeing exploited 3500 locals,lotsof birds,a goodbeach anda Coconut palms,lowshrub vegetation, about Songo Songo details. more for p310 es Salaamandget See aboatatNyamisati. better totake abusupthecoasttowardsDar (about Tsh5000), forMafia, although it’smuch Songo (about Tsh1000) andtoMafia in eitherdirection. There are alsodhowsto capsize. topayabout Tsh6000 Expect fortrips not recommended; boats yearseveral every the journeytobothdestinationsislongand to bothDaresSalaamandMtwara,although also stopsat Kilwa Kivinje. DaresSalaamandKilwaMasokobus between times dailyto/fromKilwaMasoko, andthe about 5kmfurther. Pick-upstravel several road andthenturninginatNangurukurufor 25km northof KilwaMasoko alongasealed Kilwa Kivinjeisreached byheadingabout THERE&AWAYGETTING rivalling theothers in grubbiness. all withroomsforabout Tsh3500, andeach nearthemarket,non-descript guesthouses optionsare limitedOvernight toaclutch of ordaytripfromKilwaMasoko.easy half-day ports. other coastal forSongoSongo,Mafia off vessels set and the bustling in thesun.Justfromhere onthewater is huge traysof playing onthestreets andwomensorting excellent sliceof life, coastal withchildren warren of backstreets where youcanget an sincethe14thcentury,andacontinuous use is a Dhows sail regularlyDhows sail fromKilwaKivinje The bestwaytovisitKilwaKivinjeisasan mosque OTESENTNAI • Lni TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Lindi , which locals claim has been in, which localsclaimhasbeen dhow port dagga (tiny sardines) fordrying (tinysardines) , where painted brightly Get House. Guest medical emergencies;it’s justaroundthecornerfromGift An efficient,Western-run clinic,andthebestplacefor carved doorwaysandcrumblingruinsline carved asmattering of traffic, tles withlocalcoastal further north,itssmalldhowportstillbus- not nearlyasatmosphericKilwaKivinje, get ataste of life it’s onthecoast.Although worth wanderingaroundforadayorsoto boxednearby (see text, p322 ). boneswerecentury whendinosaur discovered intheearly20thbriefly intothelimelight has yettorecover, itagainmoved although Lindiintoaslowdecline,fromwhich it sent oftrade andtherise Mtwaraasalocalhub ern Tanzania. Theabolishmentof theslave andthemaintowninsoutheast- lonial capital, caravan regional route Nyasa, fromLake co- domain,aterminus ofof theslave Zanzibar’s In itsearlydays, Lindi waspartof theSultan % LINDI here onits Kilwa-Mafia run. Aviation,Coastal which occasionallystops aircharterDar esSalaam–based operators, or in connectionwiththegasproject; check with Brigita Dispensary Brigita MEDICAL SERVICES Café Internet Malaga ACCESSINTERNET Information area. marine asapossibleprotected proposed has been hosts abundantmarinelife,Bay andthesite reef runningfromsouthof LinditoSudi tion inKikwetu,neartheairfield.Thecoral road intotown.There’s planta- alsoasisal flatsliningthetry, announcedbythesalt prosperous traderoutes to the east. asareminder ofIndian merchants once- serve the dustystreets, andaHindutemple and and afew blocksupfrom the harbour. h winds. There are alsofrequent charter flights by dhowinabout3½hours withfavourable Kilwa Kivinje,fromwhere itcanbereached tourist facilitieson the island. There acoconutplantation. through are no Songo Songo’ssoutheastern corner,reached Salt productionisthemainlocalindus- Today, Lindiisalively, placeand pleasant 023 /pop42,000 9am-6pm) NeartheShi’amosqueandPrecision Air, Songo liesabout 30kmnortheastof ( % (Uhuru St;perhrTsh2000; 023-220 2679; Makonde St) 023-220 2679;Makonde lonelyplanet.com SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 321 Just Just Basic,

(Waterfront 023-220 2288; % (

Malaika, one block Malaika, 023-220 2310; Ghana St; r 023-220 2310; Ghana St; r 023-220 2727; Rutamba St; 023-220 2727; Rutamba St; Hotel Komanite 023-220 2462; cnr Market & % ( , which is usually empty , which %

(

% This place has two spa- 023-220 2880; Market St; s/d 023-220 2880; Market St; s/d ( % (

Mtema beach Not to be confused with the epony- was being built on the waterfront just was being built on the waterfront About 6km north of town off the airfield the airfield town off of 6km north About The new three-star The new three-star Malaika Diocese of Lindi Guest House Hotel Nankolowa Adela Guest House Sleeping Sleeping the guesthouse compound). the road) be open, down from the harbour and should with Lindi’s best rooms, by the time this is published. book has arguably the best rooms in town (at least has arguably see opens, Komanite in this until Hotel later net, fan, TVsection). All have and private and a a restaurant bathroom, and there’s It’s inside a walled terrace. small plant-filled unmarked compound – look for the large, metal gate. grey ste Tsh15,000) Tsh10,000/12,000, is another good budget the market, east of and fine, with clean, no-frills bet. Rooms are be arranged. net and fan, and meals can priority. have and aid workers but church di- in advance (at the main It’s best booked ocesan offices (‘Procura’), just inland from Gift Guest House and a decent, St from Malaika, down Market basic, alternative. more albeit considerably mosquito nets and fans; there’s Rooms have no food. r without bathroom Tsh3500) s/d Tsh5000/10,000, net and continental tiny rooms with fan, 400m southwest of It’s about breakfast. the market. Tsh10,000) mous but grubbier Adela Guest House I sev- this eral blocks closer to the town centre, to as ‘Adela II’ – place – sometimes referred to point you in the direction of Mtanda, Wailes of direction you in the to point On neighbourhoods. or Mtuleni (‘Wire-less’) Kitunda itself, was formerly a sisal es- which than a now other nothing much there’s tate, but it’s a pleasantsleepy destination village, traditional a glimpse of and offers for walking the peninsula behind the end of At local life. to a local boat (hire good beach the hill is a get there). road is care and holidays. Take except for weekends your valuables. with Makonde Sts; s/d without bathroom Tsh3000/4000) cious, breezy rooms near the waterfront, rooms near the waterfront, cious, breezy Ghana St; r Tsh12,000)

Bay

To Kitunda Lindi Lukeludi River Lukeludi 9 – ask locals 7 15 17 B4 B3 A4 B4 B3 B4 B4 A3 B3 B4 B4 B4 B4 A3 B4 A4 B3 B

18

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 4 St Lumumba 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 5 3 Mikumbi on palm-fringed on palm-fringed •• Lindi SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA

13

Amani St 12 St Ghana

Uhuru St 6 Big Coca Cola Bottle Stadium 16 Shi'a 11 2 Mosque

Market St 00 500 m 0.3 miles Makongoro St Makongoro Makonde St Makonde Ghana St 8 1 dhow port Kitunda peninsula Jamhuri St 14 Rutamba St Market 10 Bus & Taxi Stand...... Cargo Ship Port...... ...... Street Food...... (see 16) Himo-One...... Boats to Kitunda...... Hotel Komanite...... Hotel Nankolowa...... Malaika...... Muna's...... Santorini...... Procura...... Adela Guest House...... Diocese of Lindi Guest House..... Gift Guest House...... Brigita Dispensary...... Malaga Internet Café...... NBC Bank...... Dhow Port...... B3 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING DRINKING TRANSPORT A (Lumumba St) On the waterfront; (Lumumba changes cash and (100km); Masasi (145km) To Mtema Beach (6km); Kikwetu (20km); Airfield (20km); Nangurukuru (165km); Kilwa Masoko (203km) Tendunguru (100km); Mtwara LINDI 2 3 1 4 To Mnazi Mmoja Junction (20km); has an ATM. has Lukeludi River to River Lukeludi Lindi Bay is lively and colourful and worth a Lindi Bay is lively of the hills on the edge stroll. From some of stands large good views over are town there and Lindi Bay, and across the palm trees of doorway. The small really hunt for the few still-standing remnants still-standing remnants hunt for the few really for glorious past. Watch the town’s more of the old German ruins boma, of the remains tower and the occasional carved an Arab of The old, historical part of town is the section The old, historical part of to though you’ll have along the waterfront, NBC Sights & Activities MONEY MONEY Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA leaving Lindidailyaround5am (Tsh7000, daily,departingLindiatabout 5ambuses sail throughout dayfrom infront throughout sail of NBC. up the coast. gers. Thedhowportisabout 800mfurther theygenerallyalthough don’ttake passen- bank, es Salaam,callattheportnearNBC boatsalongthecoast,includingtoDar Cargo BOAT hours). four (Tsh17,000, to eight 10 hours). Masasi Mingoyo buspasses about 2pm. for onwardtransportthere. ThelastMtwara– noon. Alternatively, gotoMingoyoandwait about 5amand daily,departingbetween buses for the Masasi–Mtwara bus. (Mnazi Mmoja; Tsh1000), where youcanwait thedaytoMingoyojunctionthroughout thereand 11am.Otherwise, are minibuses about 5.30am Mtwara departdailybetween to onUhuru stand St.Minibuses and taxi All transportdepartsfromthemainbus BUS 20km north of town. to Pemba (Mozambique). Theairfieldisabout on Mtwara, withaconnectiontwiceweekly DaresSalaam,Lindiand between weekly Air Precision AIR Getting There&Away the passing scene. plus afewevening, stoolstositandwatch dishing upgrilledchicken andchips each whereat thebusstand, there’s arowof stalls drink. Thecheapest andbeststreet foodis area nearthewater, andagoodplacefor intheMikumbiwhich isbehind thestadium and Tsh2000) and no alcohol; service reasonablya goodmenuselection, fast clude or cassava flour,orboth).Placestotryin- with riceor themenuisusuallychickenfish. Otherwise, tions, butyoucanget somedeliciousgrilled Lindi isn’tdistinguished foritsdiningop- Eating &Drinking 322 Boats across theLukeludi River toKitunda To KilwaMasoko, there’s adirect bus To DaresSalaam,there are direct To Masasi, there are twoorthree direct Santorini OTESENTNAI • Mwr TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Mtwara Himo-One , afew blocksupfromtheharbour;

( % ugali

(Waterfront road;mealsfromTsh1500) (Waterfront 023-220 2366;AmaniSt)

(Jamhuri St;mealsTsh3000) (Jamhuri (a staple madefrommaize (astaple Muna’s

(Amani St;meals fliestwice , with , to expandMtwara,thenanobscure fishing shortage of plantoils.Grand plans were made Groundnut Scheme apostwar toalleviate by theBritishaspartof African thefailedEast major town.Itwasfirst after developed WWII Sprawling Mtwara issoutheastern Tanzania’s % MTWARA ad Mozambique. and exit pointfortravelling Tanzania between a relaxed pace,andisaconvenient entry/ it hasdecentinfrastructure, easy access and Mikindani andother placesalongthecoast, While itlacksthehistoricalappeal of nearby in thetourismpotential of thesoutheast. of wind,witharevival of asecond interest than an oversized shell. andforyearsstandstill it resembled littlemore ofproducts, development thetowncametoa an exportchannel andother forcashews,sisal role intheregion over thenextfew decadesas Mtwara’s portcontinuedtoplayasignificant cametoanabrupteverything halt.While uncooperative and localclimate –collapsed and an plagued byconceptionaldifficulties donethanthegroundnutschemethis been – relocated here fromLindi.Yet, nosoonerhad and theregional colonialadministrationwas Tanzania’s first harbourwere deep-water built Aninternationalinhabitants. airportand village, intoanurbancentre of about200,000 In recent timesMtwarahasgotsomething difficult, even withyourownvehicle. there islittletoseeandaccessthesite is to hardcore palaeontologists. Forvisitors, cause oftheirdemise. or someothernaturalcatastrophewasthe gion, althoughitisthoughtthatflooding dinosaur fossilswere discovered inthere- Berlin. Scientistsare unsure whysomany indisplay attheMuseumofNaturalHistory world. The isnowon Brachiosaurusskeleton brancai, of cies, includingtheskeleton more thanadozen different dinosaurspe- theremainspalaeontologists of unearthed From 1909to1912,ateam ofGerman nificant palaeontological findsinhistory. Lindi, isthesite ofonethemostsig- Tendunguru, of about100kmnorthwest BRACHIOSAURUS BRANCAI 023 /pop93,000 Today, Tendunguru isofinterest mainly thelargest knowndinosaurinthe lonelyplanet.com Brachiosaurus SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA and 323 with a small dhow port 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, h market are particularly colourful are 8am-12.45pm & 1.30pm-4.30pm (Tanu Rd) h (per hr Tsh1000; (per hr Tsh1000; fish market (Tanu Rd) ATM (MasterCard; Cirrus). (Tanu Rd) ATM in Shangani is popular for swimming in Shangani (Tanu Rd) ATM (Visa). (Tanu Rd) ATM (Tanu Rd; (Uhuru Rd) Changes cash and travellers cheques; Information Information 9am-2pm Sun) Just off Aga Khan Rd in the town centre. Khan9am-2pm Sun) Just off Aga the town Rd in in the early morning and late afternoon. The afternoon. in the early morning and late beach and gen- currents (high tide only); its gentle seaeral absence hazards and other of urchins the For views over for children. it ideal make Msangamkuu sands pe- bay and the white of ninsula, look for the tiny footpath leading to TELEPHONE TELEPHONE TTCL Sights & Activities a lively In town there’s traditional-medicine section next to the main the and just east of here, building. North of NBC for used bank, watch clothing auctions Khan St is lined with Aga most afternoons. old Indian trading houses dating from the Mtwara’s fish of 1950s and 1960s. Much late comes from Msangamkuu on the other side Mtwara Bay, and the small of adjoining Tide tables are available at the port: after en- the port: after at available tables are Tide the reaching but before the port area, tering turn right the buildings gate, and go behind office. master’s to the harbour INTERNET ACCESS Makonde Net MONEY CRDB Exim Bank NBC POST Main Post Office Orientation Orientation is looselyMtwara between a busi- located to the northwest, near area and banking ness Khan the market Rds, and and Aga Uhuru and bus stand to the south- about 1.5km away is Tanu north–south street east. The main northwest on the sea,Rd. In the far and 30 foot from the bus stand, on is to 40 minutes In a small beach. with quarter, the Shangani corner, just past Mtwara’s far southeastern Majengo of areas the lively are the market, and Chikongola. Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat) Operator-assisted domestic card phone. and international calls, and a ATM ATM (Visa). Port B3 B4 B4 A4 B3 A5 B1 A1 B3 Bay 8 17 Mtwara 9 Sokoine Rd 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Mosque Peninsula 7

12 Msangamkuu

Canoe Ferry Canoe Rd 16 B

Port Rd 3 Rd Khan Aga 15 4 5

6

Cathedral Shangani Rd 14 1 Makonde

Uhuru Rd CCM Majengo Building Beach Shangani 2 00 500 m 0.3 miles 10 B4 B5 B3 B3 B3 B3 B3

Monument Pick-ups to Msimbati & Kilambo Southern Cross Hotel...... (see 12) (for Mozambique)...... Precision Air...... (see 1) Fish Market...... (see 6) Korosho Lodge...... (see 10) Safina Shop...... Shabu Restaurant...... ...... Bus & Taxi Stand...... Bondeni Lodge...... Korosho Lodge...... Mtwara Lutheran Centre... Southern Cross Hotel...... SLEEPING EATING & DRINKING TRANSPORT

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Rd Makonde Shangani Rd Tanu

•• Mtwara SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA Zambia Rd Chikongola 13 Main A Saba Saba Rd Shangani

Roundabout

O C E A N Rd indani I N D I A N Mik 9 Ligula Market...... St Paul's Church...... CRDB Bank...... Exim Bank...... Makonde Net...... NBC Bank...... Post & TTCL...... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Dhow Port & Fish Market...... B2 To Airport (5km); Mikindani (10km); Lindi (100km) 11 MTWARA

Jamhuri 5 2 3 1 6 4 To Drive-In Garden & Cliff Bar (1km); VETA (2.5km) lonelyplanet.com SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA water andcleanbathrooms, anda restaurant. roomswithcold rather soullessbut spiffy air-con Tsh25,000/30,000, steTsh35,000) to dropyouat the roundabout. to Mikindani.Arrivingbybus,ask the driver the mainroundaboutalongroad heading full. It’sonthesouthernedge of town,justoff a few, andtrytobookinadvance, asit’soften with advancenotice. Theroomsvary,socheck sonable no-frills rooms with netsandmeals Tsh6000) Rd; dmTsh3000, s/dTsh12,000/15,000, dwithoutbathroom Dispensary. Shangani at themainShangani junction,justafter the shop)finding it,askattheSafina(Container signpost onyourleft.Ifyouhave trouble leling thebeach forabout 1.2kmtothesmall Shangani junctionandfollowtheroadparal- place isoverall goodvalue. Goleftatthemain The roompriceincludesbreakfast, andthis that hasarefrigerator andsmallcooker. simple, spotlessroomsinasix-bed house plus colddrinks.Alsoavailable are several fish andothermealswithadvancenotice, grilledchicken, tasty bar-restaurant serving camping, withcleanbucket baths andasmall person Tsh10,000) 0784-503007; Shangani;campingperpersonTsh5000, rper &CliffBar Garden Drive-In BUDGET Mtwara. from Mikindani ( p326 excursion ) isaneasyhalf-day a viewpointneartheSouthernCrossHotel. 324 Sleeping Mtwara LutheranCentre Korosho Lodge in Songea. southofMtwaraneartheMozambican border,and inthecathedralof thehillinMahurunga, and ‘Africanised’ them.YoucanseeexamplesofLikonde’sworkinthesmallchurchat top dents. The biblicalscenes bestknownoftheseisHenryLikondefromMtwara,whohastaken biblical lessonstotheireveryday lives. The themeswere chosentoassistchurchgoersunderstandthesermonsandrelate the of colour,thepaintingsare ofcommonbiblicalthemes. notablefortheiruniversalised portrayal Nyangao, Lindi,Malolo,NgapaandDaresSalaam.Inadditiontotheirstyledistinctive use throughout southernTanzania andinafew otherareas ofthecountry,includingchurchesin decoratingchurches took abouttwoyearstocomplete, ofaseriesbythesameartist are part biblical scenespainted priest,PolycarpUehlein.The byaGermanBenedictine paintings,which The entire frontandsidewallsare artwork. to viewitsremarkable covered withrichlycoloured If you stoppinginatStPaul’shappen tobeintheMajengoarea ofMtwara,it’sworth church ST PAUL’S CHURCH OTESENTNAI • Mwr TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Mtwara During the years he has worked inTanzania,During theyearshehasworked Father Polycarphastaughtseveral African stu- Anothergoodbudget choice, withrea- This isashady, secure spotfor

( % 023-233 4093;Tanu Rd;rwithfan/ ( %

( % 023-233 3294; Mikindani 023-233 3294;Mikindani 023-233 3911/3146, Spartan and Spartan s views over thewater, plusarestaurant. It’sin pweza dock isgoodfor street grilled food,selling Shangani, about200mbackfromthewater VETA MIDRANGE next toatinycourtyard,andpub next door. block-style rooms,allwithfanandnet,linedup ( just westof Tanu Rd,including budget onthebackroads localguesthouses Breakfast stand. the taxi is included. It’s inawalledcompounddiagonallyopposite ohr delicacies. other The Eating &Drinking inthe care services Mtwara region. the hotel are channelled into primaryhealth- arrange excursions inthearea. Profits from canhelp just afew minutes walkaway.Staff the water inShangani, withShangani beach It’s onasmalloutcropdirectly overlooking that’sapopularspotforsundowners.taurant nishings. There’s alsoarelaxingres- seaside window andaScandinavian touch tothefur- nicetiledbathrooms,asea-facing fan, TV, place withspotless, good-value rooms,allwith .msemo.com; Shangani;s/dUS$35/55) charge Tsh3000- to Tsh000 from town. for about3km.There’s nopublictransport;taxis the T-junction inShangani, goleftandcontinue there’s(though noswimmingbeach here). From % Southern Cross Hotel Southern CrossHotel If noneof suit,there’s these aclutch of low- ) 023-233 3669;s/dTsh9000/14,000) Clean rooms, all with a large bed, TV and and Clean rooms,allwithalarge bed,TV

( % fish market (octopus), 023-233 4094;Shangani;sTsh15,000, steTsh35,000; at the Msangamkuu boat boat attheMsangamkuu Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels vitambua (Msemo;

% (rice cakes) and (ricecakes) and A recommended , withno-frills 023-233 3206;www Bondeni Lodge

SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 325 issued Msimbati Peninsula Msimbati Namiranga Bay not Ruvuma MOZAMBIQUE Boundary Ruvula Kilambo Mnazi Bay Estuary Marine Park 00 4 miles 8 km Mnazi Bay – Ruvuma Estuary Ruvuma River Mnazi Bay- Marine Park Ruvuma Peninsula Msangamkuu Madimba Msangamkuu Ziwani Mahurunga Mtwara Bay Mikindani Mangamba To Mozambique, there are several pick- are To Mozambique, there Direct buses to Newala (Tsh4500, six to eight buses (Tsh4500, to Newala Direct daily buses are there To Dar es Salaam, To Newala (125km) B2 Mikindani AROUND MTWARA If you’re driving to/from Dar es Salaam, Dar es Salaam, driving to/from If you’re petrol stations in Kibiti, Ikwiriri, are there Lindi Nangurukuru, Kilwa Masoko, and Mtwara. bus lines also have booking offices.booking bus lines also have Tanzanian and the ups daily to Mahurunga Kilambo (Tsh2500), immigration post at departing Mtwara between about 8am and side from the eastern are 11am. Departures For informa- mosque. near the the market of . p351 see River, tion on crossing the Ruvuma information on The best places for updated Boma and Ten The Old are ferry the vehicle ). p326 ( South, both in Mikindani Degrees that Mozambican visasNote are is no Mozambique at this border and there closest in Mtwara (the one is in consulate es Salaam). Dar CAR & MOTORCYCLE hours) use the southern route via Nanyamba. use Nanyamba. via route the southern hours) between 6am and Mtwara are from Departures during the wet season8am daily, except when services It’s also possible to sporadic. more are although may this via Masasi, Newala reach in Masasi. stay entail overnight an de- 10 to 12 hours), to Tsh20,000, (Tsh18,000 6am. Lines by about direction parting in each for include Wifi and Sollo’s. Book to watch are In Dar es Salaam, departures in advance. – from Temeke’s from Ubungo, or – better all the southbound where area, Sudan Market

, , Air in (Aga Khan(Aga Precision 8am-7pm) 0784-260727) h , and (Msemo; Shangani; (Msemo;

% ( (Tanu Rd; meals Tsh5000- after passing the taxi after , which also sometimes, which Shabu Restaurant near the bus stand, with a Paulo Hokororo Paulo 8am-10pm Mon-Sat, Sun 8am-1pm) 8am-10pm Mon-Sat, •• Mtwara SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA . Drive-In Garden & Cliff. Drive-In Bar h Southern Cross HotelSouthern Korosho Lodge Korosho Lodge (‘Container Shop’; Shangani; 023-233 3147; Bodi ya Korosho Bldg, Tanu Rd; 023-233 3147; Bodi ya Korosho Bldg, Tanu % ( lunch & dinner) Safina 023-233 4116; Tanu Rd) 023-233 4116; Tanu

h % closed during flight arrivals & departures) (

There’s at least one direct bus daily to Kilwa at least one direct There’s To Lindi (three hours), there are several are there hours), To Lindi (three To Masasi, there are roughly hourly depar- are there To Masasi, For sundowners and tasty and res- try the meals, For sundowners

For self-caterers: there are several reason- are For self-caterers: there between 5am and 6am in each direction. each between 5am and 6am in Masoko (Tsh7000, five hours), departing departing hours), five (Tsh7000, Masoko direct minibuses in both di- daily, departing direct in the morning. Otherwise, any take rections junction and wait for bus to Mingoyo Masasi from there. onward transport five hours); once in Masasi you’ll need to you’ll need to once in Masasi hours); five and Songea. for Tunduru vehicles change tures between about 6am and 2pm (Tsh4500, between about 6am and 2pm (Tsh4500, tures 5am and 8am from the main bus stand just the market. Sokoine Rd near off BUS BUS All long-distance buses depart between about Air Airstops in Lindi. Twice weekly, the Precision (Mozambique). Pemba flight continues on to Tanzania Tanzania h AIR AIR daily flights between Mtwara and are There on one-way) Dar es Salaam (Tsh150,000 carvings, contact ). above (see or through the Safina Getting There & Away road under the second tree after the airport after road under the second tree For high-quality,turn-off. commissioned only work on commission. A good place to only work on commission. carversstart is the family of on the Mikindani Mtwara and around are good places to buy good Mtwara and around are carvings,Makonde although many carvers Shopping Shopping at the main junction in Shangani, has a good Shangani, at the main junction in frozen items, basic supermarket selection of cold drinks. meat and sausages and stand. Rd; meals Tsh2000; Rd; meals Tsh2000; servingthe town centre, Indian local dishes, the yogurt, and sometimes fresh snacks and at restaurant meals from Tsh5000) include Other options taurant at the lonelyplanet.com is another amenable spot for a drink or meal. spot for a drink is another amenable selection of Indian and standard fare. Indian and selection of ably useful Rd, including shops along Uhuru one on the left the first 6000; SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 1866 before out onhis setting last journey. explorer spentafew inthe area weeks in still ahubforlocal traffic. coastal centres onthesmalldhowport,which is zone,andlife today nated asaconservation this era. Much of desig- thetownhasbeen nottohaveseems advanced much beyond harbour, andnow,almostacentury later, abandoned infavour of Mtwara’ssuperior larger ocean-going vessels, Mikindaniwas the arrivalof theBritishandadvent of theboomwasnottolast.WithHowever, productioninthearea.rubber andoilseed quarters andbeganlarge-scale coconut, sisal, ernment madethetownitsreg ional head- col late 1880swhentheGerman onial gov- trade, Mikindanifell intodeclineuntilthe 19th century,followingthebanonslave the domainof of theSultan Zanzibar. Inthe mid16th centuryasMikindanicameunder ivory andcopper–againincreased inthe in fortunes,trade–primarilyslaves, FollowingabriefdownturnCongo (Zaïre). and present-day DemocraticRepublicof across southernTanzania asfarZambia networksextendedlate 15thcentury,these trade caravans Nyasa. Bythe fromLake as amajor dhow portandterminus for Mikindani gainedprominenceearlyon area. surrounding larger forexploringthe neighbour asabase from Mtwara,manytravellers prefer ittoits easilyvisitedtory. Although asadaytrip charming Swahilitownwithalonghis- rounded bycoconutgroves –isaquiet, onapicturesqueMikindani –set baysur- % MIKINDANI shops. bicycle ask atthemarket oratoneof thenearby none toShangani. Toarrange bicyclerental, Tanu although Rdtoandfromthebusstand, cheaper. slightly centre toShangani). Tuk-tuks( town tripisTsh2000 (Tsh2500 fromthe building;thecostforanear theCCM There are and ranksatthebusstand taxi east of themainroundabout) costTsh6000. Taxis toandfromtheairport(6kmsouth- Getting Around 326 History For David Livingstone fans,thefamous There are afew 023 OTESENTNAI • Mknai TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Mikindani dalla-dallas runningalong majaji ) are that canbechartered forexcursions. Check Estuary Marine Park. Theyalsohave adhow for arrangingdivinginMnaziBay-Ruvuma over the town. carved Zanzibar-style doors. Withmorecarved time, soak uptheatmosphere thenumerous andsee townto it’s wellworthjuststrollingthrough confinement. tokeep unrulyprisoners once used insolitary nearby isalarge, hollowbaobabtree thatwas of this guidebook. andinaphotoanearlieredition stamps, onlyononeof Tanzania’spreserved postage were filled in.Theoriginaldesignisnow architectural interest whenitsopenarches restored thanthebomaandlostmuch of its Unfortunately, itwasmuch lessaccurately market ing alook,andclimbingthetowerfor Even ifyou’re here, not staying it’sworthtak- beautifully renovated below). asahotel (see as afortandadministrative centre, hasbeen The imposingGerman Sights &Activities organised here andatTen Degrees South. tours of townsandlocalexcursions canbe office andaninternet connection.Walking bankingfacilitiesareThe closest inMtwara. Information overlooking offers townand MikindaniBay, fully restored building, onabreezy hilltop steUS$200; from US$90/120,triple rwithout/withbalcony 0756-455978; www.mikindani.com; marine research opportunities. their website forinformationonvolunteer .eco2.com) andagoodvibeinseason. a TV Tsh5000) underashady, thatched ble), andthere’s arestaurant-bar (mealsfrom chalets are planned(about US$50perdou- deck chairs upontheroof. Self-contained with large bedsandnets,plusbayviews travellers’ withrefurbished base, rooms–all .eco2.com; rwithoutbathroomTsh20,000) Ten SouthLodge Degrees Sleeping &Eating behind theOldBoma,for some views. make yourwayupBismarckHill,rising up Apart fromthevarioushistoricalbuildings, Downhill fromthebomaisold The Old Boma at Mikindani Old BomaatMikindani The The The OldBomahasatouristinformation , which now houses several craftshops. several , which nowhouses prison ruins prison is based here, isbased andisthebestcontact Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels are opposite thejetty,and (ECO2;

boma % s

( , builtin1895 % A goodbudget 0784-855833; www ) Thisbeauti- 023-233 3875, banda ECO2 (www views slave slave with

SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 327 (www and in ECO2 , at the northern , at the northern 0784-367439, 0784-484184; No Man’s Land, No Man’s % ( a documentary Today, film. The only place to stay, with sharing facilities (prices are cur- sharing facilities (prices are , based at Ten Degrees South Lodge South Lodge Degrees , based at Ten bandas Marine park entry fees are US$10 (US$5/ are fees park entry Marine Msangamkuu Peninsula Ruvula Sea Safari the views have been marred in recent times recent in been marred have the views setby the rigs up at one end in connection gas fields found offshore with exploitation of in Mnazi Bay. – one In addition to its beach GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY is at least one pick-up daily in each There between Mtwara and Msimbati direction departing Mtwara about two hours), (Tsh1800, near the market side of 11am from the eastern camping per person Tsh10,000, s/d bandas with full board camping per person Tsh10,000, Tsh85,000/150,000) rustic set high in compari- disproportionately rently so as to tap into the son with what’s on offer the gas company staff of based nearby), coffers per meals (Tsh10,000 delicious grilled fish A at your doorstep. and the beach person) in Msimbati available basic supplies are few camping, stock up in but if you’re village, StaffMtwara and bring a torch. can help you op- to Bird Island, directly sort out excursions and boating through nearby mangrove posite, the tiny sign marking for Watch channels. from the Msimbati–Ruvula road. the turnoff person per Tsh5000 charged are Day visitors if you eat use is waived for beach (the fee a meal). Leslie-Moore’s house Leslie-Moore’s stands in ruins; the owned. privately property is an at- village, fishing from Mtwara, boasts a (bring your and snorkelling beach tractive own equipment). to 16 years/under from five for children free at the collected and are per day for adults, five) at the entrance to Msimbati marine park gate contact diving, To arrange village. is also the best source of in Mikindani, which park. the information on updated of the few on the mainland offering sunset mainland offering on the the few of is notableviews – Ruvula spot where as the LathamBritish eccentric built Leslie-Moore he was until 1967 when his house lived and agitating after for for independence deported Deportation seemed the Msimbati Peninsula. than being option to Leslie-Moore a better the newly in- of to the government subjected His story is chronicled dependent Tanzania. Heminway’s in John AfricaPassion, edge of the marine park and best visited visited the marine park and best of edge .eco2.com) At the Temporarily Temporarily , which is about , which (contact through ECO2; ad- Ruvula

(snacks & light meals from Tsh2000; (snacks & light meals from Tsh2000; , together with the border- , together Park Marine Estuary •• Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA The heart of the conservation The heart of is area Ismaili’s Corner Bar Mikindani Club Yacht which boasts a fine stretch of sand, although of boasts a fine stretch which 7km beyond Msimbati village along a sandy 7km beyond Msimbati village at low tide), and track (or along the beach a lack of crowds. Most visitors head straight crowds. Most visitors a lack of of to the tiny village Msimbati Peninsula ing Mnazi Bay. Among its attractions: a lovely and reefs offshore a string of palm-lined beach, in Mozambique. that the park will be the core of a conserva- of that the park will be the core as far south as Pemba extending tion area coastal ecosystems. Although still very much much Althoughcoastal still very ecosystems. hoped it’s ultimately in its initial stages, people, it provides home to over 400 marine home to over people, it provides delicate array of species and an impressive border in the south. In addition to about 5000 Tanzania’s newest marine park encompasses Tanzania’s from coastline extending of a narrow sliver Msangamkuu peninsula (just north and east in the north to the Mozambique Mtwara) of ing on your bargaining abilities. bargaining ing on your MNAZI BAY-RUVUMA ESTUARY MARINE PARK the two towns throughout the day. Taxis from the two towns throughout the day. Taxis depend- to Tsh10,000, Tsh5000 Mtwara charge Mikindani is 10km from Mtwara along a Mikindani is 10km from Mtwara along a run between sealed road. Minibuses (Tsh200) Friday seafood buffet with advance notice. Friday seafood buffet with Getting There & Away buffet per person Tsh3500, minimum four persons) per person Tsh3500, buffet below the Old and just Market, old Slave lightBoma, with snacks and a meals, and for snacks and light meals. Boat hire is also for snacks and light meals. Boat hire sometimes possible. closed when we passed through, but when place is a good spot open, this waterside work; check out their website if you want to their website out work; check involved. more get educational opportunities for the local com- educational opportunities munity. A stay Old Boma supports their at the (www.tradeaiduk.org), a non-profit group group a non-profit (www.tradeaiduk.org), and employment improving to committed and a restaurant. Rooms vary, so check out out so check Rooms vary, and a restaurant. Aid It’s run by Trade choosing. before a few you’ll find in these parts. There’s a sunset theseyou’ll find in ter- parts. There’s pool surrounded the bay, a race overlooking gardens, bushes and lush by bougainvillea spacious, atmospheric, high-ceilinged dou- high-ceilinged atmospheric, spacious, the closestbles and standards to top-end that lonelyplanet.com mission Tsh2500, snacks from Tsh1500) mission Tsh2500, SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA the day(Tsh100; about 15minutes with peninsulathroughoutand Msangamkuu Shangani dhowportdockinMtwara Msimbati andRuvula. Onweekends, it’s the edge of town leadingdownto theriver. If viewpoint. There are numerouspaths from nearby, theShimo laMungu(Holeof God) and, boma(now thepolicestation) German on thesouthwestern sideof townistheold Mozambique. Attheedge of theescarpment views over the RuvumaRiver valleyandinto titude, itoffers briskclimate, apleasantly and on theplateau. Thankstoitsperch at780mal- Dusty, bustling Newala isthemajor settlement % a detourifyou’re in the area. areas of southeastern Tanzania, andisworth inland country, itinmanywaysepitomises elsewhereoblivion todevelopments inthe isolation, scattered andseeming settlements (see carvings opposite ). Withitscomparative Africafortheirexoticwood East throughout is hometotheMakonde people,famed 700mand900mabovelies between level, sea This cool andscenicplateau, much of which MAKONDE PLATEAU&AROUND winds). favourable (Tsh45,000 to Tsh60,000 round-trip). reached inaregular fromMtwara 2WDtaxi Safaricangenerally be pany andRuvulaSea thanks tomaintenance workbythegascom- the roadisinreasonably goodcondition at lowtide(one-hour-plus). sandy, Although with oneof thelocalsorwalkalongbeach arrange aliftonmotorbike (aboutTsh5000) sometimes possibletohitch alift.Otherwise, Ziwani, which hasa decent market. you are cycling,themajor village enroute is the roadisunpaved, butingoodcondition.If left againandcontinuefor20kmtoMsimbati; about 18kmtoMadimba. AtMadimba, turn post ontotheMahurunga roadandcontinue village of Mangamba, branch leftatthesign- from theroundaboutsouthfor4kmto it’s usuallyeasytofind a lift. foreign residents headtowardsMsimbatiand park gate. Onweekends, manyof Mtwara’s around 5.30amfromthepolicepostnear the mosque. Departures fromMsimbatiare 328 Newala Dhows and canoes travelDhows andcanoes the between There isnopublictransportbetween Driving fromMtwara,take themainroad 023 OTESENTNAI • MknePaeu&Aon TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN Plateau&Around ••Makonde side of the plateau. offer beautifulviewsasyouwinddownthe unpaved. ThejourneystoMasasi andMtama road toMtwara. AllroadsfromNewalaare eastofNewala andMtama, Masasi onthe usually alsoatleastonevehicle dailybetween to Masasi (Tsh3000, three hours). There is runfromNewalatoMtwaraand Daily buses THERE&AWAYGETTING cheap eateries nearby. sharing abathroomfromabout Tsh4000, and the market with no-frills andbusstand, rooms less-expensive inthearea guesthouses around ontheroad the busstand, to Masasi. with anadvanceorder. It’sabout 600mfrom usual arrayof dishes,plusbetter fare standard pool. There’s alsoadecentrestaurant, withthe bles have twolarge beds,andthere’s asmall Rooms have netsandabathroom,thedou- placeisthebestchoice intown. long-standing road;s/dTsh22,000/30,000;241 0355;Masasi Country LodgeBed&Breakfast SLEEPING &EATING can berented near the market. border) andarrange alocalguide. Bicycles anyway inNewala,given itsproximity tothe your passport(which youshouldcarryaround raoal prices. reasonable generally500m fromthebus stand, have Nachingwea road,onthe leftsideandabout in thearea. alongthe Thegroupof carvers more than2000peoplelost their lives. WWI’s bloodiestbattlesinAfrica, inwhich the Mtwararoadis and Liwale. About 70kmeast of Masasi along towards Tunduru,ornorthtoNachingwea hub foronwardtravel alongthewildroadwest primarily asatransport Today, it’snotable of asettlement to establish formerslaves here. Africa(UMCA)to Central camefromZanzibar tury, whentheAnglicanUniversities’ Mission dates tothelatemodern settlement 19thcen- backdrop of granite hills.Thehistoryof the the edge of theMakonde Plateau againsta Mkapa, stretches outalongthemainroadoff place of formerTanzanian President Benjamin Masasi, abustlingdistrictcentre andbirth- % Masasi you plantodothisit’snotabadideacarry For somethingcheaper, there are several Many Makonde are based woodcarvers 023 Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Mahiwa , thesite of oneof

(‘Sollo’s’; s % ) This 023- SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 329 To Tunduru, the road is in rough but rea- The road between Masasi and Mtwara is The road between Masasi plateau. It’s dominated by a large Benedictine by a large It’s dominated plateau. by German was founded which monastery, missionaries in 1906. Adjoining the monas- is a hospital, servestery which as the major surrounding region. health clinic for the entire walk south (uphill) from a 45-minute About mostly paved and in generally good condition. and in generally mostly paved between the two towns approxi- Buses travel hourly between mately 6am and 2pm daily hours). five (Tsh4500, to cover hours sonable shape – allow up to five and the oc- Land Rovers the 200km stretch. daily during the this stretch casional bus travel dry season. During the wet season, departures prices higher. sporadic and more are Ndanda north- 40km Ndanda is a small town about the Makonde of off the edge Masasi east of GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY The bus stand end of the far western is at arriving on the Tunduru road. If you’re Masasi to drop you off from Mtwara, ask the driver station or at the petrol to avoid at your hotel into town. to walk back having (meals

023-251 % (

Holiday Guest Holiday Guest Mummy’s 023-251 0364, 0784- •• Makonde Around & Plateau SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA About 2km out 2km out About , or % (

Sayari Hotel (Natural Resources). . It’s on the Newala road, a (d Tsh15,000) (d Tsh15,000)

(meals Tsh2500) at the western end of town near end of at the western , at the eastern end of town near end of , at the eastern Mali Asili Mali , behind the bus stand, and near the (d Tsh7000)

Due to their isolated location, the Makonde have remained insulated from colonial and post- insulated remained location, the Makonde have Due to their isolated practisedTraditionally, the Makonde while it’s seldom done today, you body scarring and to why they chose to is speculation as there farmers, and subsistence Most Makonde are Like many tribes in this part of Tanzania, the Makonde are matrilineal. Children and inherit- matrilineal. Children are the Makonde Like in this part many tribes of Tanzania, reserve warden’s office Sayari Hotel For meals – the offerings are limited to to limited are For meals – the offerings Kilema Kyaro If you’re planning to visit Lukwika- If you’re ances normally belong to the woman, and it’s common for husbands to move to the village of of to the village the woman, and it’s common for husbands to move ances normally belong to of the days – possibly a remnant widely scattered Settlements are marriage. after their wives no tradition of a unified political is raids – and there to evade slave when the Makonde sought a council of elders. chief and by a hereditary Each village is governed system. Even groups. most traditional of Tanzania’s to be one considered colonial influences, and are its given with the complex spirit world to traditional religions, adhere today, most Makonde still in their carvings. fullest expression markingsmay see older people with see It’s also fairly common to on their face and bodies. in see this depicted wearing a wooden plug in their upper lip, or to elderly Makonde women Makonde artwork. that the safety Possible factors include the relative plateau. on a waterless establish themselves absence trading days), and the during slave outside intervention from (especially offered area of the tsetse fly. THE MAKONDE THE MAKONDE larg- woodcarvings, of Tanzania’s one are for their East Africa Makonde, known throughout The and began to many still live, in northern where Mozambique, originated They est ethnic groups. war sparked makeMozambican way northwards their The 19th centuries. during the 18th and during the crossing the border with up to 15,000 Makonde influx into Tanzania, another large on Today, although the Makonde and employment. haven in search of a safe 1970s and 1980s numerous are entity, there to be a single ethnic considered are the Ruvuma River both sides of two groups. between the linguistic differences cultural and Tsh2000) food is avail- district council building. Street the market. able near chicken, chips and ugali – try the restaurant and ugali – try the restaurant chips chicken, at leaving leaving Masasi. rooms than you’ll find in town, and a res- taurant. on your left when It’s signposted the post office. the the petrol station, and 0095; r Tsh11,000) noisy guesthouses, including House SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING & EATING and inexpensive of a clutch In town, there’s Ask for Ask road on the right, near the immigration office. road on the right, near the immigration office. Lumesule and Msangesi Game ReservesLumesule and Msangesi (see at ), it’s essential stop in Masasi to first p330 the Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book of town on the Newala road, with quieter town on the Newala road, with quieter of few hundred metres southeast of the Mtwara of southeast metres hundred few 634972, 0713-311129) SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA (reserved formonastery guests only),the(reserved the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake these. of duikers, it’sunlikely though you’llspotmany antelopes elands,zebras,sable and buffaloes, tions are often low.It’srumoured tohave permanent water source,wildlife concentra- theoftenthrough vegetation.dense isspottingtheanimals around thereserve, pos. Themainchallenge, apartfromgetting elands, greater kudus, crocodilesandhip- antelopes, elephants,sable luck youmaysee mals frequently wadeacrosstheborder. With bytheRuvumaRiver, andani- Reserve Niassa of thetwo. fromMozambique’s It’s separated time to come. heading downthisway,late Juneisthebest the yearduetorains.Ifyou’re keen on during much of therestcially off-limits of to localhuntingconcessions),andunoffi- (thanks the JulytoDecemberhuntingseason of during Masasi. They’re off-limits officially the remote hinterlands southwestandwest are hiddenawayin tinygamereserves These RESERVES LUKWIKA-LUMESULE &MSANGESIGAME will drop you. Ndanda, andanyvehicle alongthemainroad hospital. the anddiagonallyoppositeat thebusstand, ing budget alongthemainroad guesthouses only accommodationisinafew unappeal- sion fromtheabbeybefore taking a dip. permis- you’llneed for swimming,although the monastery isasmalldamwithcleanwater 330 © LonelyPlanetPublications Because Msangesi Game Reserve hasno Msangesi GameReserve Because Masasi rundailybetween Buses and Apart fromthemonastery guesthouse Lukwika-Lumesule isthemore interesting OTESENTNAI • MknePaeu&Aon TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN Plateau&Around ••Makonde be able toget alift withavehicle fromthe youmayoccasionally although ther reserve, the lastvillage before the reserve. andcontinuetoChingulungulu, Turn right, the TundururoadwesttoMasasi airfield. Masasi. of reached viaNangombavillage, 40kmwest on thenortheastern edge and of thereserve, about 2.5kmsouthwestof Mpombe village The entrypointintoLukwika-Lumesuleis THERE&AWAYGETTING Lukwika-Lumesule, butnot at Msangesi. Water forbathingisnormallyavailable at with you,includingfoodanddrinkingwater. there’s currently nocharge. Bringeverything ispermitted withyourown tent;Camping SLEEPING &EATING entry fee for each reserve. the back).There’s aUS$30perperson perday complex (gotothesmallwhite buildingat of NaturalResourcesintheRegionalBlock fromtheOffice information onthereserve to visit.InMtwarayoucansometimesget open fortourismduringthetimeyouwish are mission, andtoconfirmthatthereserves 0713-311129) warden’soffice reserve maintained andis maintained sometimes impassable. Msangesi ismore Theroadisnot difficult. aroundin ning alongitsperiphery.Getting Lukwika-Lumesule, followingaroadrun- it’spossibletodrive around the dryseason, yourown4WDtransport.During you’ll need warden’soffice inMasasi. reserve Otherwise, To reach Msangesi fromMasasi, follow There isno regular publictransport toei- Before visiting, it’s essential tostopbythe visiting,it’sessential Before inMasasi toget aletter of per- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (

% 023-251 0364,0784-634972,