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Expédition Everest 2011 (QVHPEOHSDUWDJHRQVO¶DYHQWXUH Dossier de partenariat Le défi des 7 sommets /·DVFHQVLRQGX0RQW9LQVRQHQ$QWDUFWLTXH 7ème et dernier sommet, me permettra de remporter ce challenge. (QGpFHPEUHMHSDUVSRXUO·XOWLPH conquête du plus haut sommet de chacun des 7 continents. -·DLGpMjJUDYLGHFHVVRPPHWVGRQW O·(YHUHVWHQ Le Mont Vinson (4897 m, Antarctique) UHSUpVHQWHODGHUQLqUHpWDSHG·XQSURMHW débuté il y a 20 ans. Je vous invite à GpFRXYULUPRQSDUFRXUVSRXUTX·HQVHPEOH nous partagions cette aventure François Matter (QVHPEOHSDUWDJHRQVO¶DYHQWXUH Le défi des 7 sommets Les sept sommets sont les montagnes les plus élevées de chacun des sept continents et les gravir toutes, est devenu un challenge pour les alpinistes. & HVWjO RULJLQHXQHLGpHG¶XQPLOOLDUGDLUH5LFKDUG%DVVTXLVRXKDLWDLW dans les années 1980 atteindre les 7 sommets en une seule année. La liste initiale de Bass est modifiée quelques années plus tard par Reinhold Messner, le premier alpiniste à avoir gravi les 14 sommets de plus de 8000 mètres. Il établit le Pic Carstensz comme point culminant de O¶2FpDQLH /DOLVWHFRPSUHQGOµ(YHUHVWSRXUO¶$VLHOµ$FRQFDJXDSRXUO¶$PpULTXHGX Sud, le mont Mac Kinley SRXUO¶$PpULTXHGX1RUGOH.LOLPDQGMDURSRXU O¶$IULTXHO¶(OEURX]SRXUO¶(XURSHOH0RQW9LQVRQSRXUO¶$QWDUFWLTXHHWOH Puncak Jaya ou Pic Carstenzs SRXUO¶2FpDQLH Ce défi est réussi pour la première fois en 1986 par Patrick Morrow. 7 alpinistes français auraient à ce jour réalisés ce challenge. /HVVRPPHWVHWOHVDVFHQVLRQVTXHM¶DLGpMj réalisées. Elbrouz 5642 m Mac Kinley 6194 m août 1991 mai 1992 et mai 2003 Everest 8850 m 21 mai 2011 Kilimandjaro Carstenzs 5892 m 4884 m Aconcagua août 1992 avril 2009 6962 m Janvier 1994 Mont Vinson 4897 m (QVHPEOHSDUWDJHRQVO¶DYHQWXUH Les ascensions réalisées /¶(OEURX]P, Russie, Chaine du Caucase. Plus haut sommet de l'Europe. -HO¶DLJUDYLjVNLVGXUDQWO¶pWp au moment du putsch qui a fait GLVSDUDvWUHO¶8566&HWWHH[SpGLWLRQ P¶DSHUPLVG¶DYRLUXQUHJDUGRULJLQDO HWLPSUpYXVXUODILQGHO¶HPSLUH VRYLpWLTXH« Le Mont Mac Kinley , 6194 m Situé au centre de l'Alaska ( Etats-Unis) Plus haute montagne d'Amérique du Nord. -¶DL réussi son ascension à deux reprises: en 1992 en solitaire en un temps record de 5 jours aller-retour puis en 2003 avec 3 compagnons. Son altitude, son climat extrême et sa situation géographique arctique en font un des sommets les plus difficiles à escalader Le Kilimandjaro, 5 892 m Située au nord-est de la Tanzanie Point culminant de l'Afrique. Durant O¶pWp 1992, M¶DL conduit avec six coéquipiers alpinistes, dans le cadre G¶XQ «défi jeunes», sept adolescents MXVTX¶DX sommet du Kilimandjaro. La calotte glaciaire sommitale en phase de retrait accéléré devrait disparaître d'ici 2020 à 2050. (QVHPEOHSDUWDJHRQVO¶DYHQWXUH L'Aconcagua, 6962 m Situé en Argentine près de la frontière chilienne. 3OXVKDXWVRPPHWG¶Amérique du Sud. -¶DLJUDYLFHWWHPRQWDJQHHQHQ jours sans aucune acclimatation préalable. Le climat aride et la couverture neigeuse ténue, rendent son ascension relativement peu technique par la voie normale. Les principales difficultés sont la haute altitude et des vents parfois violents. Le Puncak Jaya, 4884 mètres encore appelé pic Carstensz est une montagne de O¶,ULDQJaya, province d'Indonésie située sur l'île de Papouasie-Nouvelle-Guinée 3RLQWFXOPLQDQWGHO¶Océanie. -¶DLDWWHLQWVRQVRPPHWHQDSUqVXQH PDUFKHG¶DSSURFKHpSURXYDQWHGDQVOD jungle équatoriale. La découverte du mode de vie des tribus locales papoues est un des points très marquants de cette expédition. /¶(YHUHVWP, appelé en tibétain Chomolangma et en népalais Sagarmatha, est sur la frontière entre le Népal et la Chine. 6RPPHWOHSOXVKDXWG¶Asie et de la terre. -¶DLDWWHLQWOH© toit du monde » le 21 mai 2011 par le versant tibétain avec Pema, mon sherpa . *UDYLUO¶(YHUHVWDpWpO¶DERXWLVVHPHQWG¶XQ ORQJSDUFRXUV&¶HVWOHSURMHWOHSOXVGLIILFLOH et le plus dangereux du challenge des 7 sommets. Grâce à une bonne préparation, M¶DLUpXVVLO¶DVFHQVLRQGHO¶(YHUHVWGqVOD première tentative. (QVHPEOHSDUWDJHRQVO¶DYHQWXUH 0RQSDUFRXUVPHVYLHV« Médecin du sport, sportif, alpiniste et miraculé. Les débuts : Je fais de O¶DOSLQLVPH depuis 35 ans. Je pars en tant que médecin pour ma première expédition en Himalaya en 1984. Objectif : le Hidden Peak (8068 m) au Pakistan. Le chef G¶H[SpGLWLRQ est Pierre Mazeaud, homme politique et célèbre alpiniste (1er Français au sommet de O¶(YHUHVW . Cette expédition lourde (260 porteurs pour plus de 5 tonnes de matériel) est pour moi une véritable intronisation dans le monde de O¶DOSLQLVPH et des expéditions. /¶H[SpULHQFH : Je repars sur des sommets de plus de 8000 m avec Pierre 0D]HDXGHQHWHWM¶HIIHFWXHSDUODVXLWHGHQRPEUHXVHVDVFHQVLRQVGDQV GHVPDVVLIVPRQWDJQHX[GXPRQGHHQWLHU-¶HQWUHSUHQGVDXVVLGHVDYHQWXUHV VROLWDLUHVFRPPHO¶DVFHQVLRQGXPRQW0DFKinley en Alaska. /¶DFFLGHQW : En 1994, lors de O¶DVVDXW final vers le sommet du Shishapangma (8048m), je suis emporté par une avalanche, fais une chute sur 400 m de dénivelé et reste couché dans la neige à 7400 m pendant 24h. Jean- Christophe Lafaille, O¶XQ des meilleurs alpinistes du monde et son compagnon de cordée Dominique Caillat, me retrouvent par hasard et me font redescendre . Je souffre G¶LPSRUWDQWHV gelures aux quatre membres (perte de tous les orteils, de tous les doigts de la main droite et de plusieurs phalanges de la main gauche. Je subirai par la suite 15 interventions chirurgicales pour des amputations et des plasties. (QVHPEOHSDUWDJHRQVO¶DYHQWXUH Ma deuxième vie et mon rebondissement: A force de volonté, M¶DSSULYRLVH mon handicap et reprends progressivement mes activités sportives. /¶DWWUDLW pour la montagne me pousse à repartir à nouveau : G¶DERUG dans les Alpes puis en Himalaya, au Pamir, dans les Andes, en Alaska« Jean- Christophe Lafaille, mon sauveur, disparait au Makalu (8481 m) lors G¶XQH tentative G¶DVFHQVLRQ solitaire et hivernale en janvier 2006 La revanche : Je gravis le Pic Carstensz en Papouasie en 2009 et cette réussite me motive pour reprendre le défi des 7 sommets. Le désir de tenter O¶DVFHQVLRQ de O¶(YHUHVW V¶DFFURLW alors de jour en jour. A la suite G¶XQH préparation minutieuse et G¶XQ entraînement intense, M¶DWWHLQV le toit du monde le 21 mai 2011 par le versant tibétain, lors de ma 1ère tentative. Cette victoire est un moment très fort et une revanche sur la vie. A mon retour de O¶(YHUHVW je donne plusieurs conférences devant au total, environ un millier de personnes. Je revois Dominique Caillat, mon autre sauveur, 18 années après mon accident, lors G¶XQH conférence sur O¶(YHUHVW donnée à O¶+{WHO de Ville de Grenoble en 2012. Conférences au retour de O¶(YHUHVW Le Conseil général du Haut-Rhin Avec 65 % et le comité départemental des sports ont des 682 votes enregistrés Articles en couleur UHPLVOHV7URSKpHVGX6SRUW&RXSGHF°XU François Matter remporte GDQVO¶$OVDFH Dr François Matter (alpiniste qui a conquis OHWLWUHG¶$OVDFLHQGHOD O¶(YHUHVWHQ semaine (QVHPEOHSDUWDJHRQVO¶DYHQWXUH 0pGHFLQGXVSRUW« - 5HVSRQVDEOHG¶XQSODWHDXPpGLFR-VSRUWLIG¶pYDOXDWLRQV fonctionnelles des sportifs de haut niveau à Mulhouse. - Médecin des équipes de France de ski de fond jusqu'en HWGHO¶pTXLSHGH)UDQFHGHQDWDWLRQHQ - Médecin du pôle France de natation de Mulhouse. - Médecin fédéral régional du cyclisme en Alsace et médecin du Comité Régional du Massif des Vosges pour le VNLMXVTX¶HQ ([SpULHQFHG¶pYpQHPHQWVSRXUOHVNLRXODQDWDWLRQWHOVTXHFKDPSLRQQDWVGH)UDQFH G¶(XURSHRXGX0RQGHHW&RXSHVGX0RQGHDLQVLTXH-HX[2O\PSLTXHVG $OEHUWYLOOHHQ GH/LOOHKDPPHUHQGH6\GQH\HQHWG¶$WKqQHVHQ 6SRUWLI« Vainqueur de la coupe du Monde des médecins de ski de fond à Meirigen (Suisse) en 1988 2e à la Coupe Lustenberger en vol libre en 1983. Raid Gauloises en 1990. Courses de montagne ( Jungfraumarathon, Cross du Mont-Blanc, Marathon du %DOORQG¶$OVDFH« Compétitions de ski de fond longues distances depuis 1986 Thurathlon (VTT, natation et course à pied) 4e en élite en 1991 et 1er en amateur en 1992 Compétitions de ski-alpinisme : Raid d'Or (3èm.en 1992 et 2e en 1993), Pierra Menta HQ FRXSHG¶(XURSH HQHWHQ FRXSHGX monde). Patrouille des Glaciers (Zermatt) en 2006. Vainqueur du Tour de la Vallée de la Thur (125 km, 5000 m de montées cumulées) en 2005 et 2006. Sports pratiqués : Alpinisme et escalade, course à pied, VTT, natation, ski de Fond, ski alpin et ski-alpinisme, plongée (niveau 2 CMAS) (QVHPEOHSDUWDJHRQVO¶DYHQWXUH $OSLQLVWH« -1982: Groenland : escalades de parois granitiques -1983: Huayna Potosi 6088m, Illimani 6450m et Pequeno Alpamayo 5600m (Cordillère Real ± Bolivie) -1984: Hidden Peak 8068m (Karakoram ± Pakistan) ± Altitude atteinte : 7200m -1987: Broad Peak 8047m (Karakoram ± Pakistan) ± Une semaine au dessus de 7000m ± Mauvais temps -1990 : Gasherbrum II 8035m (Karakoram ± Pakistan) ± Altitude atteinte dans le mauvais temps : 7950m -1991: Elbrouz 5642m (Caucase ± Russie) -1992: Mont Mac Kinley 6187m (Alaska) ± Ascension solitaire en 5 jours Mont Kenya 5199m (Kenya) et Kilimandjaro 5895m (Tanzanie) -1993 :Sajama 6540m, Pomerape 6200m, Huayna Potosi 6088m et Illimani (6450m (Bolivie). Aconcagua 6959m (Argentine) ± Ascension solitaire en 3 jours ± -1994: Spitzberg : traversée partielle du Spitzberg en autonomie complète (ski et pulka) et ascension du Newtontoppen (1880 m) Shisha Pangma 8048m (Himalaya ± Tibet) ± Emporté par une avalanche à 7900m, chute de 400m, graves gelures. -2000: tentative au Mustagh Ata 7500 m (Himalaya-Chine) -2001: tentative au Singu Chuli 6500 m (Himalaya-Népal) -2003: 2ème ascension du Mont Mac Kinley 6187 m (Alaska) -2004: Pic Lenine 7124 m (Pamir- Kirghizistan). Arrêt à 6800m. -2005: Ausangate 6372 m (Cordillère Vilcanota ± Pérou). -2009: Pic Carstensz en Papouasie (4 884 m). -2011: Mont EVEREST (8850m) par
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