February, 2018 Air NZ Kia Ora, Author: Paul Little • Section: General News • Article Type: News Item Audience : 45,000 • Page: 44 • Printed size: 2697.00cm² • Market: NZ Country: New Zealand • ASR: NZD 58,728 • words: 1931 • Item ID: 906049024

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Travel Northland The scenic route

Visitors to Northland have traditionally kept to the main coastal highways but a new tourism project is encouraging them to journey to other areas as well.

STORY PAUL LITTLE February, 2018 Air NZ Kia Ora, New Zealand Author: Paul Little • Section: General News • Article Type: News Item Audience : 45,000 • Page: 44 • Printed size: 2697.00cm² • Market: NZ Country: New Zealand • ASR: NZD 58,728 • words: 1931 • Item ID: 906049024

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THERE ARE SO many ways to enjoy all Ancient Kauri Trail (from Maungatūroto to can do, ranging from under 30 minutes to a that Northland has to offer the visitor, no Ōmāpere), Into the Wide Blue Yonder (from whole day. And in these environmentally matter how short or long your stay, that Whangārei Falls to and on to conscious times, it’s worth noting that walks deciding where to start and finish can be ), the Secret Coast Route (from are about as sustainable as travel gets: sure, the hardest part of planning your trip. Russell to Helena Bay), Te Ara Coast to there may be some carbon emission But that has just got a little easier with the Coast (from Hokianga to Kaikohe and on to involved in getting to the start, but after that launch of Northland Journeys. the Bay of Islands) and Where Giants Gather. it’s just foot power, which uses barely any A promotion of Northland Inc, the The last of these stretches from Whangārei resources, apart from the calories you put regional economic development agency, Town Basin around the enormous harbour into it, and has all the health benefits of the plan is to produce itineraries tourists to Whangārei Heads, showcasing giants of exercise as a bonus. can follow that will take them into parts of nature, geology and history along the way. Whangārei Heads is low on statement the region they might not otherwise visit. Get your walking shoes on before you set holiday homes and big on authentic Kiwi Five have already been posted online: the out because there are several great treks you baches. You won’t find international hotel

_ From O ma ¯ pere you can take in views across the mouth of the Hokianga Harbour to the sand dunes on the other side. February, 2018 Air NZ Kia Ora, New Zealand Author: Paul Little • Section: General News • Article Type: News Item Audience : 45,000 • Page: 44 • Printed size: 2697.00cm² • Market: NZ Country: New Zealand • ASR: NZD 58,728 • words: 1931 • Item ID: 906049024

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chains represented here, but you will find —— Not far from the Town Basin is the numerous cosy B&Bs ready to give you a turn-off to mighty Mount Parihaka Scenic warm welcome. You won’t find crowds, Whangārei Heads is low Reserve, topped with a World War I memorial either. But you will find a leisurely pace and on statement holiday obelisk that at first glance appears to be holidaymakers enjoying an old-fashioned made of that great vernacular Kiwi Kiwi break in camp grounds and baches. homes and big on authentic construction material, corrugated iron. All five Northland Journeys are worth your Kiwi baches. You will find Signs also explain the history and attention, but Where Giants Gather numerous cosy B&Bs ready significance of this site to Māori and Pākehā; combines the best of town and country. The over the years, it has been a scene of conflict, former is represented by the Whangārei to give you a warm welcome. loss and restoration. You can look back from Town Basin, which is a natural starting point. —— here across the harbour and city. The scale It’s a bustling collection of both restored of the panorama may surprise you. historic buildings, such as the Reyburn The Town Basin will also be the site of Continue your drive via through House Art Gallery (reyburnhouse.co.nz), and a long-dreamed-of centre honouring the tidy suburbs and past mangroves and the purpose-built likes of the Claphams visionary Austrian-born New Zealand artist coastal farms and you’ll soon click into the Clock Museum (claphamsclocks.com) Friedensreich Hundertwasser, together with waterside drive around the harbour. – watch out, you can spend a lot of time here. the Wairau Māori Art Gallery. Summer is the best time for this trip because There’s also a futuristic children’s playground The citizens group behind the project, at many points along the way there are where all the activities look like organic the Prosper Northland Trust, hit its extensive stands of giant pōhutukawa lining chemistry molecules come to giant life. fundraising target in the middle of 2017 the coast. In full bloom they would be like In fact, you could spend most of a day and building is expected to start early this enormous blood-red ribbons undulating exploring the Town Basin, shopping in its year, says chairman Barry Trass. The along the shore. pretty boutiques, eating and drinking at the complex will include a Māori art research Golfers will want to stop at the Pines Golf excellent cafes and ogling the yachts in the and exhibition centre as well as a space Club (pinesgolfclub.co.nz), which could marina. You could even do it on in-line skates, devoted to exhibiting Hundertwasser’s own hardly have a prettier site, although that from Pupurangi Hire & Tour (hirentour.co.nz). work, supplied on rotation from Europe. nearby harbour could be seen as one February, 2018 Air NZ Kia Ora, New Zealand Author: Paul Little • Section: General News • Article Type: News Item Audience : 45,000 • Page: 44 • Printed size: 2697.00cm² • Market: NZ Country: New Zealand • ASR: NZD 58,728 • words: 1931 • Item ID: 906049024

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intimidating water hazard. There’s nothing This page from above: daunting about the green fees, though – time The Reyburn House Art it right and you could play a round for $5. Gallery in Whanga ¯ rei; ¯ Not all the giants on this trip are natural. Whanga rei Falls; Claphams Clock At one point the Oil Refinery Museum; relaxing at comes into view. Across the harbour in the the Whanga ¯ rei Town early-morning sunshine haze this industrial Basin. Opposite: The behemoth presents an almost romantic wooden footbridge spectacle – a shimmering city floating on the across the estuary sea. Later sightings will be less romantic, at South. considerably more industrial. The beach settlement of Pataua South marks one terminus of this journey. The delightfully ramshackle footbridge across the estuary practically demands to have its photo taken, after which you can fish from it, or jump off it when conditions are right. On the other side of the heads are the hidden treasures of McLeod Bay. A historic cemetery lies at one end – it’s accessible on foot at low tide, so best to check tides if you hope to see it. At the other end of the bay is a diminutive, no-frills, utilitarian church, originally Presbyterian but now ecumenical and hosting services for diverse faiths. The Rev Norman McLeod led settlers from Scotland to this part of the country in 1854 and the church is said to have been built in 1858, although a later date may be more likely. If it was constructed under his direction, he appears to have had no great hopes for making large numbers of converts. It’s so small that if they had weddings here the bride’s and groom’s sides would have had to take turns inside. Not much further down the road is one of the route’s undisputed highlights, the always impressive – all 420m of it. Long ago, this mountain was part of a 50km-diameter volcano. From many points it dominates the landscape in monolithic majesty. Legend explains the rocky outcrops atop the mountain as follows: one is the chief Manaia; two are his children; another is his Journeys at itinerariesforNorthland Find detailed 48 term futureaheadofthem. Heads thesedays hasavery brightshort- embarking onanexplorationofWhangārei other ways throughoutthisarea,butanyone thing ofthedistantpast. a point, butdealingincontrabandisclearly presumably didsome the way Bay. toSmugglers Somebody walk you go, themoreisolatedyou feel,all birdsong andwaves. Thefurtherintothis noise willbeabackground soundtrack of other people,andforthemostpartonly territory you may encounteronly afew interest asyou traverse theirpaddocks. regardyouto withnomorethandiffident also afairnumberofcattlewhoarelikely duck, pūkeko, kingfisherandothers,but notably birdlifeintheformofparadise emplacements andavariety offauna, World War IIrelicssuch asgun farmland andbushwhereyou’ll encounter Bay isrecommended.This goesthrough the walkBay toSmugglers fromUrquharts Walk.Loop will bewell rewarded by doingtheTe Whara fitness” level,recommended “high you have ofsteps” and,tobeblunt, “lots also commemorateManaia. attheentrancetotrackand pou(posts) for theviews tobehadat thetop. Sculptures robust ascentonagoodtrack butworth it found throughoutthisarea.Theclimb isa andlegaciesofManaiaaretobe Legends – fromwhomManaiastolePitoinpursuit. wife, Pito; andthefinaloneischief Hautatu The pastmakes itspresencefeltinmany tourist As thisisnothigh-density For thosewithlesstimeontheirhands, If you cansparefourhours,tolerate iO Ki or [email protected]. store thisinformationwithoutthepriorwrittenconsentofPrintMediaCopyrightAgency.Phone+64-4-4984487 PMCA licensedcopy.Youmaynotfurthercopy,reproduce,record,retransmit,sell,publish,distribute,shareor Country: NewZealand Audience :45,000 Author: PaulLittle Air NZKiaOra,NewZealand February, 2018

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PHOTOGRAPHY NORTHLANDNZ.COM, NORTHLANDINC, GETTY, ONE SHOT