Bulletin Fall 2010 | a Publication of the American Mountain Guides Association | Amga.Com
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American Mountain Guides Association MOUNTAIN bulletin Fall 2010 | A Publication of the American Mountain Guides Association | amga.com We have enormous skill and talent in our ranks – as guides, as professionals, and as members president’s of the greater communities in which we live and work. We have warmth and openness, and a deep commitment to personal and professional growth. We have energy and motivation. We CORNER by Margaret Wheeler have so much!!! The realists among you might be quick to point out that it is a good thing we have all this, be- Hi Everyone, cause as an organization we have taken on some big, difficult tasks. We have so much before us, For this post-Meetingpalooza Mountain Bulletin, I want to write about two sub- and as the glow of the November meetings fades, jects: first, what I learned from the IFMGA meetings. And second, what I learned we stand here looking at all the work to be done, from the Access meetings. The issue of the Bulletin is chock full of details about all the directions to pursue, all the stumbling the meetings in every aspect, and my goal in this article is to look at some of the blocks we see. For everyone – the office, the big-picture perspectives. I hope that writing this will be a useful contribution board, our membership, and our greater com- towards conveying some of the spirit and the value of the Fall Meeting! munity – as we survey the landscape ahead, I hope you will all keep this thought at the front IFMGA Meeting of your mind: Now, more than ever, it is time to In looking back over the events of the meeting, I feel that there is no way I can fit work together. it all into mere text. How do you capture and convey the coming-together that was truly amazing, and much deeper than we even thought it might be, so much Access Meetings so that it caught us all a bit by surprise? The pages of this Bulletin will express all IIn my November 4th email to the membership, different aspects of this, and I so for my part I would like to offer the story of one I wrote: particular moment. “In the big picture we are a small organization, THE PARADE and our membership has small numbers when The moment came sneaking up on me. Of course I knew we planned to have a compared to other entities utilizing public lands. parade, and that we would all have our uniforms, and there would be flags, and But I see that our core values as mountain guides – the Mayor of Boulder would be there too, and that it would be very cool and fun. connectors to the wilderness, magnifi ers of our clients’ But still I didn’t see it coming. Late Sunday afternoon, right on time and accord- experience, stewards of the land – have something very ing to Kyle’s well-laid plans, we all began to gather in front of the courthouse on valuable to offer to the public and to land managers Pearl Street. There was some initial heckling by a few homeless guys, but then our alike.” numbers began to swell and the flags were unrolled and we starting lining up. It What is that value? After our week of meet- began to look like Something Was Happening. ings with NPS and USFS folks, a vision of what And Happen it did. Standing there, surrounded by our guides – wearing uniforms we have to offer is emerging. I hope you will and ear-to-ear grins, lined up behind the flags and outfits from around the world, consider it, and tell me what you think. It goes I felt a shift, a movement, of perception. something like this: At the parade, gathered together with our community from the US and abroad, in THE PRESENT SITUATION: the public view, we suddenly saw ourselves through outside eyes; and in doing we WHAT ARE WE NOW? saw ourselves in a new way. We saw ourselves for what we truly are: a young or- 1. NPS and land managers in general (as well ganization coming of age. In joining together, we have a strength that perhaps we as the public) see guides and guide services did not realize before. We have a potential that we are just beginning to realize. strictly as ‘people making money off public lands’. In fact, as guides trying to make a liv- ing, I think we also see ourselves this way. In this issue 2. This perception is at the core of all policy 3 The AMGA Cares 8 Where The Hell Am I??? towards commercial entities operating on 4 AMGA Board of Directors 11 The Minimum Standard 2010 Position 13 Access Director Update continued on page 18 6 Maximizing Client Rewards 15 Book Review: Espresso Lessons 7 Ice Instructor Course & 16 Gear Review Its Implementation American Mountain Guides Association AMGA Board of Directors EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE Margaret Wheeler | President Majka Burhardt North Bend, WA Boulder, CO 206.818.7947 970.290.7822 [email protected] [email protected] Martin Volken | Vice President Clint Cook North Bend, WA Ouray, CO 206-525-4425 970.290.7822 [email protected] [email protected] Evan Stevens | Secretary Adam Fox Garibaldi Highlands, BC Canada Hendersonville, NC 801.212.3438 888.284.8433 [email protected] [email protected] Scott Soden | Treasurer Keith Garvey Denver, CO Boulder, CO 303.242.5758 720.221.8302 [email protected] [email protected] Rob Hess | Technical Director Dick Jackson Jackson, WY Aspen, CO 307.733.4979 877.790.2777 [email protected] [email protected] Peter Gould | Legal Counsel Kyle Lefkoff Denver, CO Boulder, CO 303.894.6176 303.444.6950 [email protected] [email protected] Jim Pearson | Legal Counsel Marty Molitoris Denver, CO Rosendale, NY 303.478.1115 845-658-3094 [email protected] [email protected] Matt Brooks | Historian John Race San Francisco, CA Leavenworth, WA 510.797.7980 509.548.5823 [email protected] [email protected] Dale Remsberg Louisville, CO 303.818.8009 [email protected] John Winsor Boulder, CO 303.579.9227 [email protected] AMGA Mountain Guides Association PO Box 1739 | Boulder, CO 80306 | 303.271.1277 fax NEWSLETTER DEADLINE READ THIS DISCLAIMER! The Mountain Bulletin is Published in February, May, The AMGA, its officers and employees, authors, editors, artists and volunteers assume no responsibility or August, November. Deadlines for all submissions liability for accuracy, effectiveness, or safety of any technique or advice described in this publication. It is in 2010, including advertising are: January 9th the responsibility of the individual climber or guide to investigate technical techniques and evaluate them (winter issue) April 10th (spring issue) July 10th for safety and applicability. (summer issue) October 9th (fall issue). NEWSLETTER CONTRIBUTORS NATIONAL OFFICE STAFF Betsy Novak is the AMGA Executive Director Executive Director | Betsy Novak Henry Beyer is the AMGA Program Director and a Certified Single Pitch Instructor Program Director | Henry Beyer Josh Harrod is the AMGA Membership Director Membership Director | Josh Harrod Ed Crothers is the AMGA Accreditation Director & Climbing Instructor Program Director as well as a Certified Accreditation Director | Ed Crothers Rock Instructor and SPI Provider Climbing Instructor Program Director | Ed Crothers Margaret Wheeler is President of the AMGA, an IFMGA Guide and an instructor for the AMGA Access Director | Leigh Goldberg Rob Hess serves as the Technical Director of the AMGA. He is IFMGA certified and is the senior guide/owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Accountant | Asha Nagda Photo Credits: FarmerFoto, Mark Houston, Betsy Novak, Renee Henry, bigstockphoto.com 2 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com AN I NTERNATIONAL A FFAIR by Betsy Novak were many exciting things made by Katrin Devouassoux, our translator, “This is too that happened in 2010 for confusing for me (referring to the permit system in the US). I do the AMGA but I must say the not envy you for the work you must do.” After such comments Therehighlight of the year was the IFMGA/AMGA Meeting held were made it was evident that the IFMGA had a strong sense in Boulder, Colorado, November 12- 19. It was November of the challenges the AMGA faces when dealing with access 2008 when we first learned that the AMGA would be hosting for our American guides as well as foreign IFMGA guides. Past the international community and not too long after that the president Dick Jackson and Margaret Wheeler have reported planning process began. Two years and a few grey hairs later, to the membership about this “understanding” by the IFMGA 60 delegates representing 17 countries descended on Boulder before, but I have to admit it wasn’t until I experienced for to take part in what will go down in history as one of the myself the constructive and meaningful dialogue between both greatest IFMGA and AMGA meetings to date. organizations that I felt it to be true. The week started off with twenty plus foreign guides piling Another pre-meeting event was the Technical Director into two, fifteen-passenger vans and one Sprinter van to head Skills Seminar. Technical Directors from across the globe to Moab, Utah where they would climb splitter cracks under gathered together in Eldorado Canyon State Park to discuss a deep blue sky and hang with the “local” AMGA crew and traditional climbing and improvised rescue techniques. Beaver climbing trip sponsors, Black Diamond and Patagonia. Geoff Theodosakis, founder of Prana, along with Kyle Lefkoff , Unger, AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide, worked the trip for AMGA Board Member, hung with the guides in the park and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and here is what he had to say had this to say about his day, “It was an honor to hang out with the about the week.