Travel Travel Paradise FOUND JANE THOMPSON rewinds with a riding holiday at Estancia Los Potreros in central

ndless views of impressive number of Angus cattle and grass hills from the back of 130 plus . There were vague a perfectly behaved and murmurings of breeding horses to sell, incredibly comfortable but not a lot of selling seems to have gone , and the knowledge on. Instead, they have a great number of Ethat a claw-foot bath, a fantastic meal, lovely horses who are all beautifully world-class red wine and a comfortable trained by the gauchos. bed await after your ride. Having this many horses means their Sound like bliss? It is. Argentinian workloads are light, which is sound bliss. Riding bliss. Foodies’ bliss. management given that the pasture is Travellers’ bliss. poor – the stocking rate is about one From , the first part of the cattle beast to 10 acres, and journey to get to this blissful place was a supplementary feed is exorbitant, if you 10-dollar taxi ride from my hotel to the can source it to buy in the first place. So, airport. Just over an hour later, after the horses are run in herds in huge gawping at the huge expanse of flat paddocks – 1000 acres plus! – to forage countryside below me, (think Canterbury what they can. plains x 999,000), I was greeted by Louisa On my arrival at Los Potreros, a Begg at the shiny new Cordoba airport, refreshing glass of home-made lemonade and a few minutes later we were winding greeted me, along with the smiling our way up the hills to the 6000-acre beef assistant chef Claudio, who was in his and horse farm, Estancia Los Potreros. first week of employment. Pato, the The (or estancia in the always-smiling head chef, has been with Portuguese language) has been in the the Beggs for more than 15 years. Begg family for many generations, and The other guests returned from their Lou became part of the family when she ride, and two more arrived just in time came out from England for a riding for lunch. We now had the full crew who holiday, and never left, marrying her I was to spend the next three days with. host, Kevin. Los Potreros is located in the Riz and James were from London, both Sierras Chicas, the small range between riding for only the second time, and the Andes and the pampas. loving the experience. Jenny had ridden a Between them, the very sociable couple lot, but her son Robbie had only limited have further developed the estancia’s experience. He was soon right into it, and accommodation business, and built up an having him there was like having our

MAIN IMAGE Many of the estancia’s mounts are Criollos, a sturdy, compact and muscular breed who are ’s main working horses FROM LEFT Looking over the pampas. Hosts Kevin and Louisa Begg. The verandah at night.

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FROM TOP LEFT A beautifully detailed . BBQ, estancia-style! Bringing in the herd. Sheepskins are used for comfort over the . Guest accommodation. Paso Peruano horses showing their special fifth gait, the paso LEFT Riding through a stream

own junior David Attenborough, as he was legs forward, sitting as deep as you hungry again, it was into the sitting room and the young ones heading out, and was very interested in the considerable could in the , weight back. I rode for a really good cup of English tea and looked forward to a full cooked breakfast. HORSES OF THE ESTANCIA bird life around, being part of his way on a loose rein the whole time. cake. There was just enough time to clean My ride today was Terros, a Peruvian through a zoology degree. By the time Margarita was a good horse for the up for dinner, and get back in time for gaited horse who is one of the most The horses at Estancia Los Potreros • The fifth gait is genetic rather than lunch was served, we were all ravenous, two-hour ride; her preferred paces were the special entertainment. Two local lads comfortable I have ever ridden. The gait are either Criollos or Paso Peruanos learned and is a lateral four-beat gait. as we had been teased by the lovely smells walk or canter. She’d march along at a entertained us with Argentinian songs, was fabulous for the long distances, and (crossbreds). Percheron and It can look as though both legs on of the meat being slow-cooked on the good pace, and had no issues stopping played with many instruments, all with a his transition from walk to canter was bloodlines as well as one side are moving forward BBQ. A nice glass of local wine to have while I took photos or admired some of lot of gusto. The music was beautiful, Valegro-like. He didn’t do trot; it was quarter horse have also been together, although in actuality there with lunch? Why not? walk, amble, or canter. He was, and introduced. should be a slight difference in timing My first ride was scheduled later that needed to be, very sure-footed as we The Criollo is sturdy, compact and of the hoof hitting the ground. The afternoon, just what was needed after picked our way up and down rocky hills. muscular, making them ideal for pace can sometimes be faster than such a wonderful long lunch. We met at Peruvian gaited horses are fabulous for the We headed towards the city of being South America’s main working a canter, and some Peruvians lose the tack room, were kitted out with long distances... very sure-footed.” Cordoba, which we could see in the horses. Hardiness, endurance over one gait altogether, usually the trot. helmet, boots and chaps, and had a lesson “ distance once we reached the top of the tough terrain and ability to carry • The horse is typified by a high on riding, gaucho-style. This involves hills. Our mission was to bring in a herd weight are useful on the estancias extravagent flicking action of the reins in one , and a more Western of horses from one of the biggest as well as on the polo field. front legs and they can stay in their approach including neck-reining. the bird life that Robbie had spotted. especially the tango. No, we didn’t spoil it paddocks on the place, about 5000 acres. The Paso Peruano shares a paso at some speed over long The horses were amazingly responsive Daniel, the head gaucho, led the way and by trying to dance! It took a to find them, and they were common ancestry with the Criollo in distances and varied terrain. and soft-mouthed, and at no time did opened all the gates. On our return, we Dinner was perfect: tasty nibbles, in three separate groups, so we helped that the breed originates from Spain. The pace is extremely comfortable for they pull or resist. My first horse was helped bring the youngstock into the followed by a beautiful risotto and salad, herd the groups together, and shepherded They were developed and bred in the rider. Margarita, a small bay mare about 14 yards overnight to protect them from dessert and fruit and a truly lovely local them towards the large yards some Peru with little cross-breeding, which • The tack used at Estancia Los years old with easy brakes and accelerator. marauding night-hunting puma, who Malbec wine. kilometres away. is part of the reason that their fifth Potreros is English, with sheepskins The gaucho style doesn’t involve a gentle apparently have quite the taste for foals I got up early the next morning to take The horses had obviously done this gait, the ‘paso’ (pace or amble), has over polo or British army saddles, but nudge or application of the leg aids; a and calves. advantage of the camera-friendly light before, and obliged us by heading directly been preserved over the centuries. the riding style is more Western. short quick kick worked instead, then it After the ride, just in case we were and watch the older horses coming in there, but for me, this was a first, galloping

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best steak I have ever eaten, with cheeses and dessert wine to finish. FACT FILE I was sad to have to pack up the next day, and because of having to get to the WHEN TO VISIT airport late morning, there was no time I was there in winter (late August), to go for one last ride. Or was there? Our and had the most glorious week of host Kevin brought out two of his prized sunshine. possessions, his highly decorated and • While the days were perfect, it did engraved show saddle, complete with get a bit colder at night, so the big wooden stirrups, and his lovely Paso fireplace in the sitting area was a Peruvian , Super Mario (proper welcomed feature, and rooms are warmed by small woodstoves. The hot water bottle tucked into the bed was a nice touch too! A game of polo for • Winter is the dry season, and after early spring rain, apparently the lifetime! If I was younger… “the guests was great place greens up and the wildflowers TRIP DETAILS fun and enjoyed by come out. In summer the pool is Air flies into Buenos Aires FROM ABOVE LEFT available, but you don’t have to worry directly from Auckland. I’d suggest Mares and foals about the temperatures getting too staying a few days in the city before graze happily on everybody.” the lawn. Trying hot for riding, as it remains very and/or after your visit to Estancia Los my hand at polo. pleasant. Potreros. Recoleta is a very central The perfect Electricity is generated through place to stay in Buenos Aires, handy setting for trail • riding. Polo gear name Andariego Corregidor). With one windmills and solar power. Only to all the main tourist attractions, lined up in the of the gauchos on another fine young limited internet was available but good restaurants and I felt very safe tack room filly, the horses showed off their paces. frankly, to enjoy all there is to offer at there. Palermo is the place if you are When Kevin offered me the chance to the estancia, you’ll quickly get over keen to try out a wide variety of bars have a ride, I couldn’t get on fast enough. having no internet! and restaurants and experience the Just a couple of twirls around the GUIDES vibe of the nightlife. paddock, and oh, I was impressed. What The gauchos are also assisted by If you have the time while in South a fabulous horse to ride. guides on the rides. These guides are America, Iguazu Falls are supposed to I reluctantly handed Super Mario back volunteers who stay for about be amazing, and Mendoza is a and it was then off to the airport to head two-three months at a time, working beautiful wine region. Both will require back to Buenos Aires for some city time. (which includes helping with some you to fly from Buenos Aires. In hindsight, I would have preferred to kitchen work) for their board and CONTACT DETAILS: stay at the estancia for longer, so I’ll know keep, and getting the experience of a www.estancialospotreros.com for next time! ■ alongside a herd of about 60 horses. It has with poached pear in red wine with perhaps I did inadvertently foul a couple Event Dates: Friday 9– Sun 11 Dec 2016 gone down as one of my most exhilarating crème anglaise. We all enjoyed a wine or of times… and the girls triumphed. It ~KAIMANAWA~ Registrations Open September 16 2016 equestrian activities ever! two, but didn’t last past 10pm, after the was a lot of fun. The dates shown are confirmed but subject always to NZ Army Our work wasn’t done, as there was one day’s physical exertion. We went out for what I thought was requirements regarding Army activities. All bookings must be made online. This guided tour is strictly limited in numbers and bookings are on a first bunch of stragglers still to come in, and it The next day was the much-anticipated going to be my last ride late that CLASSIC received basis. took a bit more skill convincing these last game of polo. The trek down the road to afternoon. We headed at a fast pace to the The Kaimanawa Horse Treks 10 or so to relinquish their freedom. get to the polo field was a chance to warm ‘Top of the World’ – the highest vantage explore the home range of the Kaimanawa horses, inside the Waiouru Military Training Area. The horses were checked over in the up and get to know our horses. I had point on the estancia. Unbelievable views, The treks follow horse trails and tank tracks, winding their way across valleys of tussock grasslands, along alpine ridges, and through beautiful yards, and assessed in case any were in Adela, who was a quick and responsive and my horse for this ride, Garancho, was native beach forest and mature manuka stands. need of closer scrutiny. Meanwhile, we little chestnut, perfect for the game. After one of the bigger ones, and that bit of This year day one of the three day Trek will be based at the Sports ground enjoyed a picnic lunch of home-made a quick lesson from Lou, we were divided thoroughbred in him enjoyed the hoons just down the road from the Army Museum. On Friday afternoon we will join the members of the Two Day Trek and travel out to our camp along empanadas (a kind of beef turnover) and up into teams, with one of the gauchos, up the hills. But still no problems with the banks of the Moawhango river, with the comprehensive Kaimanawa horse yards as our base, providing overnight security for your horse. an opportunity to try the local Mate tea Enzo, making up numbers in the boys’ any brakes! We have several different route options available to us. Weather conditions will predicate which of the routes are used which was a bitter concoction served in a team. He was handicapped by riding a That night we also had another treat, on which particular day. The Kaimanawa Horse Trek requires riders and traditional gourd cup. horse that had never played polo before, helping cook some of the dinner in the their horses to be reasonably fit and competent. This will ensure you gain the most satisfaction from the ride. The horses were released again and we and he wasn’t allowed to ‘tackle’ the magnificent kitchen. Well, if that’s what It is NOT a suitable trek for beginner riders, or unfit/undisciplined horses. All riders MUST be capable of mounting and dismounting their horses in made our way back to the ranch. The cup guests. Just as well, or Enzo would have you call making empanadas and ravioli the field unaided, and walking in rough country if required. of tea and cake on arrival was much won the game single-handedly. We all with all the carefully laid-out ingredients. for more info - ph: 021 844 737 or 021 710 733 welcomed, and then dinner that night had a great time and I absolutely loved it. As well as eating our own unusually- www.offlimits.co.nz or visit our website was another magnificent meal, topped off Perhaps I did get a bit enthusiastic, and formed creations, we had some of the THOMPSON ASTRID HARRISON & JANE ALICE GIPPS, CLERKSON, TONY IMAGES:

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