805-Living-Taste-Food-April-2008.Pdf

TasteFOOD By Laura Samuel Meyn wn Restaurant- o Get your fix without firing up the oven. Worthy BROOKS restaurant in Ventura (545 E. Thompson Blvd., 805- 652-7070 or www.restaurantbrooks.com) features a Carnaroli T the risotto starter ($11) made with calamari, garlic, mascarpone, and a citrus fruit—such as grapefruit, blood orange, or Meyer Ri sotto lemon—that changes seasonally. Take a break from pasta with this delectable rice dish. CA’DARIO, a highly rated Italian restaurant in Santa Barbara (37 E. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805-884-9419 or www. On On cadario.net) offers a risotto special ($17.95 at dinner) that Pasta would hands- The cooking process is changes daily; past renditions have featured chicken and down win a popularity con- where the similarities of vegetables, sausage, or seafood. test among Italian starches pasta and risotto end, and stateside, but risotto—that that might help explain why CAFE FIRENZE in Moorpark (563 W. Los Angeles Ave., 805- creamy yet toothsome dish the former has been easier to 532-0048 or www.cafefirenze.net) serves risotto that has been of rice cooked slowly in import to American kitchens: described as “amazing” by 805 Living staffers; the chef says broth—is a real mainstay Compared to pasta’s 10-minute that their risotto cooked to order, so it takes a little longer, but in Northern Italy. Risotto, cooking time, risotto requires it’s worth the wait. You’ll find a chicken and porcini risotto on the regular menu, and specials ranging from risotto with a bigger commitment of about in fact, is nearly as flexible sliced calamari, clams, and cherry tomatoes to a zucchini and as pasta; it can be simple a half hour. While 30 minutes calamari version ($10 to $16.95). or complicated, vegetable- in the kitchen is nothing to get laden or meaty. In Italy it nervous about, risotto requires CALITALIA in Calabasas (formerly known as Native Café, has traditionally been served near-constant stirring that 23536 Calabasas Road, 818-223-9600 or www.calitaliares- as a first course before meat keeps the chef a little closer taurant.com) serves a wonderful saffron risotto with its osso (much like pasta once was). to the range than some other bucco entrée ($25.50); the saffron risotto is also available à But Tales of Risotto: Culinary starches. But try your hand at la carte upon request ($15). Adventures from Villa d’Este the risotto recipe on page 98, CAPRICCIO’S in Oxnard (221 W. Fifth St., Oxnard, 805-486- (Glitterati, 2006) authors and we think you’ll find that 1100 or www.capriccio.ventura.menuclub.com) offers a risotto Jean Govoni Salvadore and the restaurant-quality results on its specials menu ($14 at dinner) with selections changing Luciano Parolari agree that make it well worth the effort. every other day, and a chef known to accommodate patrons’ its original purpose has now And once you get the hang of risotto requests. The restaurant’s Ventura location (298 E. expanded, particularly when the technique, you won’t need Main St., Ventura, 805-643-7115) also offers a risotto special it comes to risottos that incor- a recipe to come up with your daily, based on the chef’s inspiration; a vegetable risotto is porate substantial additions of own risottos based on your offered regularly as a side dish. vegetables, seafood, or meat. favorite ingredients and the RUSTICO in Westlake Village (1125 Lindero Canyon Road, “Many diners, appreciating season’s best produce. Which 818-889-0191 or www.tuscany-restaurant.com) features a dif- the luxury of a risotto, prefer means that pasta just may ferent risotto each week ($15 and up). Some popular choices to eat a larger single course,” face some competition in the in the past have included a Maine lobster and asparagus rendi- they write in their book. popularity department. tion, and a porcini risotto topped with shaved black truffles. >> 96 APRIL 2008 805 LIVING ALAN RICHARDSON/FOODPIX/JUPITERIMAGES >>Taste Ingredient notes and shopping tips Great risotto begins with great rice. Here’s a short guide to the varieties

rket best for risotto-making.

in the a Arborio: This high-starch Italian rice is the most common one used for risotto stateside. These days, it’s widely available at supermarkets. Its plump grains have made it a favorite for producing risotto’s creamy texture, but more recently its reign kitchen has been challenged by other varieties of Italian rice that are even Make it at home with these classic recipes. starchier (see below). Whole Foods Market in Thousand Oaks (740 N. Moorpark Road, 805-777-4730 or www.wholefoodsmarket.com) Asparagus Risotto Risotto Primavera carries California-grown eco-farmed Lundberg White Arborio Rice This recipe comes courtesy of Whole This recipe comes courtesy of Phyllis ($4.69 for a 32-ounce bag). Trader Joe’s (for locations call 800- Foods (www.wholefoodsmarket.com). Vaccarelli, owner of Let’s Get 746-7857 or visit www.traderjoes.com) carries its own store brand Cookin’ in Westlake Village. of Arborio rice ($2.49 for a 35-ounce box). 1 pound fresh asparagus, trimmed 4 cups unsalted chicken broth Carnaroli: Considered the best risotto rice throughout much of sea salt 3 tablespoons butter Italy, Carnaroli is said to produce the creamiest risotto because of Cooking liquid from asparagus ¼ cup diced red onion T itsm the high starch content (even higher than Arborio). The firm texture combined with beef, poultry, or ¹⁄3 cup finely diced carrot

A holds its shape through the long cooking process—so it resists vegetable broth to make 7 cups 1 cup thinly sliced mushrooms overcooking—making it a new high-end favorite here in the US. It 3 tablespoons butter, divided 1 cup uncooked Carnaroli or has a very similar look to Arborio, with those characteristic plump 2 tablespoons organic extra Vialone Nano Rice grains. The Whole Foods Market in Thousand Oaks (see above) virgin olive oil 1 cup fresh asparagus, cut into carries Lotus Foods Carnaroli Rice ($3.99 for a 15-ounce package). 2 tablespoons minced onion ¼-inch slices Let’s Get Cookin’ (643 Lakeview Canyon Road, 818-991-3940 or 2 cups Arborio rice ½ cup peas Fresh-cracked black pepper ¼ cup Parmigiano Reggiano, www.letsgetcookin.com) carries Campanini Carnaroli rice ($7.95 ¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano grated for a 16-ounce box). cheese, grated salt and pepper to taste Vialone Nano: The choice for risotto in Italy’s Veneto region, Vialone Nano is another starchy, squat grain that’s well-suited to risotto- Braise asparagus in large pan filled Heat chicken stock in a saucepan until making. It’s not as widely available in the US as Arborio or Carnaroli, with about 2 inches of salted water it boils. Turn heat down to a simmer. however. Let’s Get Cookin’ in Westlake Village (see above) carries one (asparagus should fit in one layer Melt the butter in another heavy across bottom of pan), covered, saucepan over low heat. Add the brand—Campanini Vialone Nano ($5.95 for a 16-ounce box). about 5 minutes. Remove asparagus onion, carrot, and mushrooms to (reserve water) and rinse with cool the pan. Sauté until vegetables are water to prevent further cooking. softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the Cut asparagus into 1-inch pieces rice and stir until coated with the and set spear tips aside to add to butter. Add just enough hot chicken In the Classroom dish once it is cooked. Pour cooking stock to cover the rice. Notes for lifelong learners. water into large pot and add enough Cook on low heat, stirring con- broth to make 7 cups of liquid. Keep stantly, until all of the liquid is Learn risotto-making from a pro: Let’s Get Cookin’ in water simmering over low heat, as absorbed. Continue to add small Westlake Village (643 Lakeview Canyon Road, 818-991-3940 or you’ll be adding this to the rice amounts of broth while stirring www.letsgetcookin.com) is hosting “A Risotto, Polenta, and Gnocchi throughout its cooking. the rice. Cook until the rice begins Workshop” ($75 per person or $140 for couples or friends) on In large heavy pot, add 1 table- to look creamy, but is still slightly Wednesday, May 14. Instructor Tim McGrath will teach students spoon butter, olive oil, and minced firm to the bite. Add the asparagus how to prepare risotto, polenta, and gnocchi as great accompani- onion. Cook onion until nearly tips and peas. Continue to stir and ments to meat, poultry, seafood, vegetables, and sauces. Some translucent over medium-high heat. add more chicken stock if needed. of the recipes covered will include Sweet Pea and Smoked Tasso Add asparagus stalks (not the spear Season with Parmigiano Reggiano Risotto with Fresh Herbs and Shaved Parmesan, and Saffron tips) and stir well. Add rice, stirring and salt and pepper to taste. Serve Risotto with Shrimp, Serrano Ham, and Sautéed Asparagus. Call quickly. Add ½ cup simmering broth immediately. ahead to reserve your spot. and cook, stirring constantly, until Serves 4. water is absorbed. Continue adding Required reading: Tales of Risotto: Culinary Adventures from liquid, ½ cup at a time, until rice is Villa d’Este (Glitterati, 2006) by Jean Govoni Salvadore and Luciano tender, about 20 minutes. Parolari features dozens of risotto recipes straight from Villa d’Este— Final consistency should be the high-profile Northern Italian luxury hotel on Lake Como—and creamy and the rice tender but its executive chef, Parolari, who is fondly known as the “King of slightly firm at the center. Turn off Risotto.” While Parolari’s recipes are long on specifics that make heat and stir in asparagus spear tips, them very useful to the cook, the book also makes for great arm- pepper, remaining 2 tablespoons chair reading. Each recipe is introduced with colorful stories from butter, and grated Parmigiano the hotel—stories that drop enough celebrity names to make People Reggiano. Adjust seasonings if magazine jealous. In Southern California, we’re not above admitting necessary. Serve immediately. we love that kind of thing: Don’t you want to know which risottos Serves 6. Parolari served to Alfred Hitchcock and Pope John Paul II? 

98 APRIL 2008 805 LIVING