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Women Surrealists: Sexuality, Fetish, Femininity and Female Surrealism
WOMEN SURREALISTS: SEXUALITY, FETISH, FEMININITY AND FEMALE SURREALISM BY SABINA DANIELA STENT A Thesis Submitted to THE UNIVERSITY OF BIRMINGHAM for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Department of Modern Languages School of Languages, Cultures, Art History and Music The University of Birmingham September 2011 University of Birmingham Research Archive e-theses repository This unpublished thesis/dissertation is copyright of the author and/or third parties. The intellectual property rights of the author or third parties in respect of this work are as defined by The Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988 or as modified by any successor legislation. Any use made of information contained in this thesis/dissertation must be in accordance with that legislation and must be properly acknowledged. Further distribution or reproduction in any format is prohibited without the permission of the copyright holder. ABSTRACT The objective of this thesis is to challenge the patriarchal traditions of Surrealism by examining the topic from the perspective of its women practitioners. Unlike past research, which often focuses on the biographical details of women artists, this thesis provides a case study of a select group of women Surrealists – chosen for the variety of their artistic practice and creativity – based on the close textual analysis of selected works. Specifically, this study will deal with names that are familiar (Lee Miller, Meret Oppenheim, Frida Kahlo), marginal (Elsa Schiaparelli) or simply ignored or dismissed within existing critical analyses (Alice Rahon). The focus of individual chapters will range from photography and sculpture to fashion, alchemy and folklore. By exploring subjects neglected in much orthodox male Surrealist practice, it will become evident that the women artists discussed here created their own form of Surrealism, one that was respectful and loyal to the movement’s founding principles even while it playfully and provocatively transformed them. -
Jeanne Lanvin
JEANNE LANVIN A 01long history of success: the If one glances behind the imposing façade of Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 22, in Paris, Lanvin fashion house is the oldest one will see a world full of history. For this is the Lanvin headquarters, the oldest couture in the world. The first creations house in the world. Founded by Jeanne Lanvin, who at the outset of her career could not by the later haute couture salon even afford to buy fabric for her creations. were simple clothes for children. Lanvin’s first contact with fashion came early in life—admittedly less out of creative passion than economic hardship. In order to help support her six younger siblings, Lanvin, then only fifteen, took a job with a tailor in the suburbs of Paris. In 1890, at twenty-seven, Lanvin took the daring leap into independence, though on a modest scale. Not far from the splendid head office of today, she rented two rooms in which, for lack of fabric, she at first made only hats. Since the severe children’s fashions of the turn of the century did not appeal to her, she tailored the clothing for her young daughter Marguerite herself: tunic dresses designed for easy movement (without tight corsets or starched collars) in colorful patterned cotton fabrics, generally adorned with elaborate smocking. The gentle Marguerite, later known as Marie-Blanche, was to become the Salon Lanvin’s first model. When walking JEANNE LANVIN on the street, other mothers asked Lanvin and her daughter from where the colorful loose dresses came. -
April 2018 Book List: Re-Make It
KNOCK KNOCK RE-MAKE IT READING LIST Knock Knock Children’s Museum (KKCM) is a community spark for engaging, playful learning experiences that inspire and support lifelong learning. We strive to be inclusive by making every aspect of our museum relevant and accessible to all. We recognize that responsive interactions are critical for children and adults to achieve their fullest potential in the context of relationships that are built on trust and respect. We believe in the development of the whole child with the goal of increasing early literacy skills while expanding knowledge and raising interest in STEAM subjects and careers. Books are an important part to our museum, with the Story Tree Learning Zones, featuring a library of over 400 books. These books organized around the themes of each Learning Zone are used daily in our programs, to introduce field trips, to guide art and maker shop activities, for story times and for visitors to enjoy. KKCM is excited to work with The Conscious Kid Library, an organization that promotes multicultural literacy, anti-bias and empowerment through creating access to diverse children’s books. Our goal is to make sure all visitors to our museum can see themselves and learn about the people, places, history and ideas that make up our diverse and wonderful world. Knock Knock’s theme for April is “Re-Make It” so all of the books featured on this list involve re-making, whether it’s weaving with used plastic bags, making musical instruments from trash, or transforming spaces, fashions, inventions or art. Knock Knock Children’s Museum • knockknockmuseum.org • The Conscious Kid • theconsciouskid.org RAINBOW WEAVER/TEJEDORA DEL ARCOÍRIS Linda Elovitz Marshall, Illustrated by Elisa Chavarri Ixchel wants to follow in the long tradition of weaving on backstrap looms, just as her mother, grandmother, and most Mayan women have done for more than two thousand years. -
Haute Couture
NEXT EXHIBITION AT THE CITY HALL PARIS HAUTE COUTURE FREE EXHIBITION AT THE CITY HALL FROM 2 MARCH TO 6 JULY 2013 With the support of Swarovski OPEN EVERY DAY EXCEPT SUNDAYS AND BANK HOLIDAYS, FROM 10 AM TO 7 PM PRESS RELEASE PARIS HAUTE COUTURE Paris City Hall celebrates haute couture from 2 March to 6 July 2013, with an exhi- bition in the Saint-Jean room, in collaboration with the Galliera Museum and the exceptional support of Swarovski. For the first time ever in Paris, fashion capital of the world, an exhibition is bringing together a hundred haute couture dresses and outfits by designers such as Worth, Doucet, Poiret, Lanvin, Vionnet, Patou, Chanel, Molyneux, Rochas, Maggy Rouff, Jacques Heim, Nina Ricci, Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Grès, Balmain, Carven, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent, Courrèges, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lacroix, Alaïa… Organised in collaboration with the Galliera Museum – under the artistic direction of Oliver Saillard – the Paris haute couture exhibition invites you to admire these exceptional garments, chosen from the most beautiful pieces in the museum’s collections. A unique opportunity to discover a number of masterpieces, many of which have never been seen before. This group also includes a set of drawings and photographs, enabling the visitor to step behind the scenes of these world-famous fashion houses and observe the creative processes. Haute couture was born in Paris in the mid-19th century and since then, generations of designers have transformed this supposedly frivolous discipline into high art, drawing on the skill of thousands of little hands, like those of the embroiderers and plumassiers (feather workers), whose work in the shadows has kept alive the traditions that help maintain Paris’ influence on fashion all over the world. -
Salvador Dalí
Salvador Dalí Contents Introduction to Dalí ....................................................................................................................................... 2 Diminutive Biography ................................................................................................................................... 2 Chronology of Select Works & Contributions ............................................................................................... 2 Theatre ...................................................................................................................................................... 3 Film ............................................................................................................................................................ 3 Painting ..................................................................................................................................................... 3 Writing ...................................................................................................................................................... 5 Photography .............................................................................................................................................. 5 Fashion ...................................................................................................................................................... 6 Architecture ............................................................................................................................................. -
ELSA SCHIAPARELLI Nationality – Italian Style – Surrealist / Art Deco Born : 1890 Died: 1973
ELSA SCHIAPARELLI Nationality – Italian Style – Surrealist / Art Deco Born : 1890 Died: 1973. HISTORY. Elsa Schiaparelli was one of Europe’s most well known fashion designers. She was most popular in the 1930’s and 1940’s but her witty and stylish clothes are still an inspiration to other designers to this day. Elsa Schiaparelli was born in Rome in 1890. She had a very colourful childhood and did many things to shock her parents, once she attended a high class ball wearing only a piece of material wrapped around her body. Aged 18 she married and travelled around Europe until she gave birth to a daughter, Marisa. Unfortunately her husband then abandoned her and she was forced to find work to support herself and her child. She was interested in fashion and tried to get jobs in Paris fashion houses, eventually she had some luck, she designed a black jumper with a knitted white bow motif at the neck. It was much admired and shown in Vogue magazine. It proved so popular that she had to employ a group of women to make some more, this led to her starting her own fashion business and from then on she stared producing sportswear, day and evening wear and printed scarves. ‘Bow’ jumper Butterfly buttons Surrealist coat. TECHNIQUES Schiaparelli was very experimental and often used unusual fabrics and materials, like glass like plastics and cellophane, metallic threads and beads. On one occasion she even used human hair on a jacket. She often used oddly shaped buttons and fastenings such as insects, butterfly, fruit and vegetable shapes- anything in fact that did not look like a button. -
Dali Keynote
Dali’s father, Salvador Dali i Cusi, was a notary. His mother, Felipa Domenech Ferres, was a homemaker. Salvador Domingo Felipe Dali was born in 1904. His older brother with the same name died a year before his birth. At five, Dali’s mother told him that he was a REINCARNATION OF HIS BROTHER. Dali believed this. At five, Dali wanted to be a cook. At six, Dali painted a landscape and wanted to become an artist. At seven, Dali wanted to become Napoleon (they had a portrait of Napoleon in their home). Dali’s boyhood was in Figueres (Fee-yair-ez), Spain, a town near Barcelona. This church is where Dali was baptized and eventually where his funeral was held. Summers were spent in the tiny fishing village of Cadaques (Ka-da-kiz). Dali loved the sea and the image of it shows up frequently in his paintings. Local legends suggested that the howling winds and twisted yellow terrain of the region in Catalonia would eventually make a man mad! With sister Ana Maria Later with his wife With poet friend Lorca Photos from Cadaques Dali attended drawing school. While in Cadaques, he discovered modern painting. His father organized an exhibition of his charcoal drawings in his family home. At 15, Dali had his first public exhibition of his art. When he was 16, Dali’s mother died of cancer. He later said that this was the “greatest blow I had experienced in life. I worshipped her.” Dali was accepted into the San Fernando Academy of Art in Madrid. -
Recorded PSW Lecture Series 10 Fashion Designers You Need to Know
LECTURE SERIES PARIS STYLE WEEK ONLINE “10 FASHION DESIGNERS YOU NEED TO KNOW” ABOUT LECTURE SERIES - ONLINE The Cycle of Lectures «10 designers you need know» is aimed at all people who want to deepen their knowledge of the history of fashion through the legacy of 10 leading French Haute Couture ! ELSA SCHIAPARELLI ! GABRIELLE CHANEL Designers. ! HUBERT DE GIVENCHY ! CHRISTIAN DIOR ! PIERRE CARDIN Valeria Doustaly chronologically presents the ! KARL LAGERFELD motivations and creations of the different designers, ! YVES SAINT LAURENT brings relevant content from the latest fashion ! AZZEDINE ALAÏA ! THIERRY MUGLER exhibitions in Paris as well as the current panorama ! JEAN PAUL GAULTIER of the brands. SCHEDULE LECTURE SERIES DAY Elsa Schiaparelli & Gabrielle 1 Chanel DAY You will receive by email the link ZOOM of 2 Christian Dior & Hubert de each recording session. The link is valid 7 Givenchy days, when you finish one lesson you DAY receive the following, and at the end you get an exclusive LIVE lesson with Valeria 3 Pierre Cardin & Karl Lagerfeld Doustaly. DAY Yves Saint Laurent & Azzedine 4 Alaïa DAY Thierry Mugler & Jean Paul 5 Gaultier LECTURE SERIES PARIS STYLE WEEK ONLINE “10 FASHION DESIGNERS YOU NEED TO KNOW” “It is not a matter of memorising names and dates, this can be found in any text. The important thing is to understand the processes and transformations that led to the facts; the creations of these designers tell us about the values, aesthetic considerations, individual and social identities of an era. It is a matter of -
Coco Chanel Lived in Slouchy Sweaters, Which She Wore with Jewels, As If She Were Going to a Ball
01b_ch1_rev_knitwear.qxd 1/29/08 1:21 PM Page 22 C O C O C H A N E L Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel b. 1883 Saumur, France d. 1971 Paris, France “Luxury could have no other purpose than to offset simplicity.” —Chanel “Chanel ennobled ‘poor’ materials.” —Valerie Steele The model as well as creator of her eponymous designs, Coco Chanel lived in slouchy sweaters, which she wore with jewels, as if she were going to a ball. Her innova- tions in materials and silhouettes, although they influenced haute couture for generations, have remained identified with her distinctive style. Chanel was the first designer to repurpose the use of jersey fab- ric, which was previously used for men’s under garments. By taking the inventoried knit fabric from the renowned French textile company Rodier and designing it into a styl- ish oversized cardigan, Chanel rev- olutionized knitwear forever. 22 1928 01b_ch1_rev_knitwear.qxd 1/29/08 1:21 PM Page 23 1971 1927 23 1928 1927 01b_ch1_rev_knitwear.qxd 1/29/08 1:21 PM Page 24 J E A N P A T O U 24 1928 1925 01b_ch1_rev_knitwear.qxd 1/29/08 1:21 PM Page 25 b. 1880 Normandy, France d. 1936 Paris, France “Inventor of Sweater Dressing,” “Father of Knitwear Design” Jean Patou’s firsts in knitwear design are numer- ous. He introduced the straight, white, cabled, sleeveless tennis cardigan and made a V-neck tennis sweater as a dress for Suzanne Lenglen, a tennis pro of the early 1920s. Patou was the first designer to put his initials on clothes. -
Designers Inspire Clothes-Conscious Coed Betty Hatcher Iowa State College
Volume 19 Article 5 Number 7 The Iowa Homemaker vol.19, no.7 1939 Designers Inspire Clothes-Conscious Coed Betty Hatcher Iowa State College Follow this and additional works at: http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/homemaker Part of the Home Economics Commons Recommended Citation Hatcher, Betty (1939) "Designers Inspire Clothes-Conscious Coed," The Iowa Homemaker: Vol. 19 : No. 7 , Article 5. Available at: http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/homemaker/vol19/iss7/5 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Publications at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in The oI wa Homemaker by an authorized editor of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. ::J)e:Ji!uetJ Inspire the Clothes-Conscious Coed Betty Hatcher finds food for fashion thought in the world of famous style creators LOTHES may not make the woman, .but a new Saisonniers. Today she is the greatest of the traditional C dress does give us new spirit, self confidence and dressmakers, using simple fabrics that drape and cling poise. In an outfit we know is smoothly good looking, and marvelous, subtle colors that are dyed especially we feel ready to meet the world. for her. In answer to women's desire to be attractive, the Gabrielle Chanel's shop on the Rue Cambou, op fashion industry came into existence. When the ca posite the Ritz in Paris, appeals to her feminine clien reer of fashion designing opened, it brought fame to tele with clothes that are essentially young. -
Design for the Cover of the Magazine Voici La Mode / Art Goût Beauté Gouache and Black Ink, Over an Underdrawing in Pencil, on Paper Laid Down on Board
Léon BENIGNI (1892 - 1948) An Elegant Couple: Design for the Cover of the Magazine Voici La Mode / Art Goût Beauté Gouache and black ink, over an underdrawing in pencil, on paper laid down on board. Signed lbénigni at the lower left. Inscribed VOICI LA MODE and ART GOUT BEAUTE at the top. Further inscribed chanel and Brun Rouge / soulin on the reverse. 326 x 225 mm. (12 7/8 x 8 7/8 in.) The monthly magazine Voici La Mode / Art Goût Beauté was launched in 1920 under the title 'Les succès d’Art Goût Bon Ton.' By October 1921, however, the title had been changed to Art Goût Beauté, taking the initials of its founders, the Lyonnais textile manufactory Albert Godde Bedin et Cie. Aimed at an affluent clientele, the magazine sought to promote luxurious fabrics and fashions to a readership who could afford to dress in the French haute couture fashions of the time. Presenting the designs of the most sought-after Parisian couturiers – including Jeanne Lanvin, Lucien Lelong, Jean Patou, Paul Poiret and the House of Worth - Art Goût Beauté’s artistic director Henri Rouit commissioned drawings from the leading illustrators of the day, notably George Barbier, Paul Iribe and Georges Lepape. Each issue was rich in both advertisements and colour illustrations, some of which were tipped-in. The magazine began incorporating photography in the 1930s, and in 1933 the title was changed again, to Voici La Mode / Art Goût Beauté, with each issue illustrated only with black and white illustrations. The woman in this gouache drawing is wearing a dress designed by Coco Chanel (1883-1971). -
The Art & Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli
SHOCKING! THE ART & FASHION OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI Philadelphia Museum of Art September 28 - January 4, 2003 Sponsors Supported by Carefree and by an endowment from The Annenberg Foundation for major exhibitions at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, The Pew Charitable Trusts, the National Endowment for the Arts, the Robert Montgomery Scott Endowment for Exhibitions, The Women’s Committee of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the generous donors to Schiaparelli’s List. Promotional support was provided by NBC 10 WCAU and the Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corporation. Curator Dilys E. Blum, Curator of Costume and Textiles This packet of teacher materials was developed by the staff of the Division of Education at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Shocking! THE ART & FASHION OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI A Note to Teachers on the Use of these Materials: This teacher packet is meant to be used in your classroom before, after or instead of visiting the exhibition. These materials were prepared for use with grades 5 through 12. Therefore, you may need to adapt the information to the particular level of your students. THIS PACKET INCLUDES: 1. OBJECT INFORMATION 2. SCHIAPARELLI IN THE CONTEXT OF FASHION HISTORY 3. BIOGRAPHY OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI 4. SCHIAPARELLI AND SURREALISM 5. CLASSROOM ACTIVITIES 6. RESOURCES Object Information Hand Knit Sweater with Bowknot, November 1927. Black & White Wool. Philadelphia Museum of Art. Gift of Mme Elsa Schiaparelli. Discussion Questions • How has Schiparelli decorated this sweater? • Why do you think Schiaparelli decided to knit a bow right into the sweater instead of making a scarf to go with it? • This sweater was unique at the time.