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EXPLORE CITY AND PROVINCE

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UP TO REGIONAL RURAL THE DYKE PRODUCE IDYLL launch into space here producers in the countryside the Ommeland

35⁰ 12’ 56” N 6⁰ 48’ 34” E 2 INDEX GRONINGEN, Map of the province A WELL-KEPT 78 Regional produce 10 Producers in the countryside SECRET FOR The Explorers; townspeople on MANY the Hogeland 84 � Oosterhouw Proudly produced � Enne Jans Heerd in Groningen The city and province of Groningen have Pure, ethical and sustainable so much to offer - from the boundless energy of , festivals and shops, 22 The countryside to the peace and quiet of almshouses and 86 gardens behind gates. This is where you as a stage Hongerige Wolf Explore can venture out on the seabed on foot, or the borgen enter the impregnable fortress. Estate houses Let us take you on an exploratory 34 expedition that includes places of Off the A round trip interest, various routes and detours to beaten track through Groningen; take in city highlights and great places In and around the city > A church tour p.18 out of the centre. Visit beautiful villages > Along the Reitdiep p.54 near the city. All of these are places to > Through the Veenkoloniën find silence and tranquillity, let go of 42 peat district p.70 old ideas and allow new ones in. And let’s not forget the Groningen special region producers, who proudly create their countryside that Coordinates merchandise with plenty of love for ended up in Groningen Five iconic places in Groningen. We will provide their land. Some places are a slightly you with the coordinates. It’s longer bike ride away, but you might get up to you to do the exploring. lucky and have the wind at your back. 48 Up to the dyke � Nieuwe Statenzijl � Bokum Tips > 11 x space p.8 > 11 x city p.28 > 11 x countryside p.40 62 > 11 x heritage p.60 Rural idyll > 11 x regional produce p.76 34

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ALMSHOUSES CITY SO DARK YOU CAN SEE EVERYTHING IN THE NIGHT SKY

53° 24’ 25.4” N, 6° 11’ 5 1.6” E groningen 11 x space

— — — ‘T ROEGWOLD On the water In the city Darkness Whisper boat Almshouses Dark Sky Park Rent a whisper boat to enjoy There was a time when If you would like to experience 11 TIMES the silence as you sail through almshouses in Groningen city true darkness, you really should the countryside. Hear those provided housing to the poor, check out the tiny birds in the reed and the the widowed and the sick. Dark Sky Park. Far away SPACE murmuring water and enjoy the Today, these quiet courtyards from any artificial sources of lovely Groningen countryside. are homes of individuals light, this is where it gets so - marenland.nl who relish the peace and dark at night that you see Step into the Groningen space. It’s close by, just look — quiet of these city oases. everything in the night sky. around. Behind a city gate, on a monastery bench, or with Sleeping outdoors Some courtyards are open - visitgroningen.com/dark-sky your feet in the clay of one of many extensive polders. This is During the evening to visitors that wish to enjoy where you can let go of old ideas and allow new ones in. What could possibly beat a little quiet contemplation. sleeping in the countryside Past residents may well have under the starry sky? Avond- done the very same, under the uren is an accommodating very same trees! Courtyard yet adventurous initiative tour guides are available by experienced outdoor at the Groningen Store. NOORDPOLDERZIJL — — — instructors. - avond-uren.nl - groningenstore.nl Walking Activities Fresh air AVOND-UREN ‘t Roegwold Yoga on the flats Noordpolderzijl One of the most frequently The boat trip to the flats and This is the perfect place for photographed places in the yoga class bring you taking in some fresh North Sea Groningen is the Knuppelpad into contact with yourself air, during a brisk walk on the in ’t Roegwold near and the elements. Who dyke, a ramble across the mud Schildwolde. The wooden knows, you might even flats or a view of the shallows. deck path through the rugged spot a few seals stretching Afterwards, stop at the striking swamp forest takes you out in the sun as well. ’t Zielhoes pub for a drink at the 750 metres into the area. - meergroningen.nl outdoor café, or huddle around - staatsbosbeheer.nl — the warm round iron stove. — Back in time - zielhoes.nl Creativity Klooster — Kunsterf Warempel For centuries, monks worked, Cycling Workshops and creative prayed and lived with North-eastern polders KLOOSTER holidays at the Kunsterf inspiration in the Ter Apel A large part of the province of TER APEL Warempel space in monastery – a large impressive Groningen used to be under are sure to red brick building surrounded water, or was flooded too ALMSHOUSES awaken your inner artist. by deciduous forests. This often for it to be of much use. - kunsterfwarempel.nl is still a magical place, and The solution of Groningen — if only the walls could talk. residents was to roll up their Spa Of 34 medieval monasteries sleeves, reclaim the land and and convents in Groningen, dyke it in. Take in the extensive On a cold and bleak day, relax this was the last one to be horizon of the deceptively flat YOGA and enjoy the warmth of the established. Today, it’s the countryside during a bicycle ON THE Bad Nieuweschans thermal only one left that can still be ride through the north-eastern FLATS bath or saunas. recognised as a monastery. polders of Groningen. - thermenbadnieuweschans.nl - kloosterterapel.nl - visitgroningen.com/polders

8 9 groningen The Explorers THE EXPLORERS

Text: Chris Zwart TOWNSPEOPLE ON THE HOGELAND

To many, rural Groningen may sound who has lost his heart to the Hogeland like an unknown and faraway place, area, or Mayke Zandstra, who lives at but people who visit run a risk of being the beautiful Enne Jans Heerd farm instantly smitten with the region and with her partner. What exactly is it that its villages. Whether they hail from makes Groningen so very special, and the Randstad or the city of Groningen, what should you really see, taste and many find themselves affected by its experience here? Wilbert and Mayke charm. Take Wilbert van de Kamp, are happy to share their story.

10 11 groningen The Explorers

THE HOGELAND IS A PLACE YOU SHOULD EXPLORE FOR YOURSELF

When Wilbert van de Kamp (31) ‘Oosterhouw is a special house. I SPACE FOR YOU gets the opportunity to live in the welcomed about two thousand visitors TO CLEAR YOUR HEAD monumental house Oosterhouw in to the activities I held at the historical ‘The Hogeland beats Tuscany in summer for a year in 2016, he embraces residence in the year I lived there – all any time. The waving grain in the fields it. He was fed up with the rush of life of them people who would otherwise all around is just such a lovely sight. Even in Amsterdam. The Hogeland wasn’t never have come. Books and plays when it’s busy with tourists, it doesn’t unknown territory for him, but thanks were written here, videos recorded and feel crowded at all. The area literally to Oosterhouw, he got to know it even weddings held too. It was also the venue provides space to let you clear your better. And he fell in love with it. for the Zwarte Zielen Festival; a festival head and welcome new thoughts.’ for those suffering from depression. Oosterhouw was the perfect location THE BEGINNING OF for this, because it is an old house. If the THE walls could talk, the tales they could ‘The dyke near tell. During the festival, there was a features lovely salt marshes. You great atmosphere of high spirits, and may not be aware of the fact that the the photos only show people smiling.’ entire Hogeland area was once sea.

I sometimes take a group of people up the dyke with Ale 'CLIMB THE CHURCH TOWER OF Havenga of the Landgoud farm. He always asks them to look HORNHUIZEN, FROM THERE YOU at the sea and describe where they are. People usually respond with something like: ‘At the end of the Netherlands.’ Ale will CAN SEE A PANORAMIC VIEW OF ask them to turn around, saying: ‘No, look, this is actually the THE ENTIRE HOGELAND AREA beginning of the Netherlands.’ AND THE SEA'

AN AREA WITH MUCH TO OFFER ‘I love to visit the WaddenMax farm in Hornhuizen, where they sell this amazingly good dairy produce. They also have a which makes it just such a special place to visit. It also very small and cold pool where you can swim. Not many know makes visitors likely to ask people where to go, as a result about it, but feel free to ask them if you can take a dip in it. The of which they find out much more. So feel free to walk up Hornhuizen church tower – with a panoramic view of the entire to a farmer for a chat; chances are you will get a guided Hogeland area and the sea – is highly recommended. After- tour. If you’re lucky, maybe they’ll invite you in for a meal.’ wards, enjoy some apple pie at Wongema next door. I often go to , where Jan and Barbara of ‘t Ailand dole out LOOKING INTO INFINITIVE DISTANCES freshly caught fish from the sea. The area has so much to offer.’ ‘As soon as I take my car and leave the city of Groningen, I catch myself thinking how much I love these infinite views. I TOURIST WITHOUT A MAP guess you could say that I lost my heart to the Hogeland. It is ‘The Hogeland is perfect to explore with friends and the nicest area in the Netherlands. Our generation is looking family. The fun part is that there is no map showing the for new experiences, which I think are easier to find in highlights. Many places have remained undiscovered, than in Bali. I really do think so, and I would say: check it out.’

13 groningen The Explorers

UTTER SILENCE NOTHING IS EVERYTHING ‘I never really felt at home anywhere until I came to the ‘If you are looking to explore a pure and untouched Hogeland. I must have moved twenty times to find what I area in the Netherlands, you really should come to the was looking for right here, all thanks to the people living Hogeland. This is the perfect place to clear your head here, the countryside, the calm, the expanse, the impressive and enjoy far horizons wherever you look. Sit down in a skies, the old villages and churches, and the salt marshes. verge or bench and look all around you to absorb the I took my youngest son to the dyke near Westernieland beauty. Take some time to really appreciate the scene; the other day. We didn’t see a soul and everything was rushing through it might make you think it isn’t all that. perfectly quiet. I just feel so rich to have this near where I This is actually true for some places where you will see live. This is the place where you can really wind down.’ nothing. But that really is just the secret of these places.’

ALICE IN WONDERLAND ‘If you would like to know about one particular and special place in the Hogeland region, the Abelstok wooded area, just north of , comes to mind. My first time 'I MUST HAVE MOVED there was on a summer evening, on my racing bicycle. It TWENTY TIMES TO FIND was about 9 pm and growing dark. Abelstok is a fairy-like wooded area with overgrown fruit trees and low branches, WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR and people tend to just pass it without stopping. I felt RIGHT HERE, ALL THANKS TO like the proverbial Alice in Wonderland. The openness of THE PEOPLE LIVING HERE.' the surrounding area gives it such a magical touch.’ STOP AND TAKE A BREATH IN A PURE AND UNTOUCHED REGION

In 2018, Mayke Zandstra (38) and her ‘You will find the Enne Jans Heerd A REGION FOR DEVOTEES family ventured out to the Hogeland on the old Maarhuizen artificial ‘The Hogeland is pure and open, a perfect area to live and create a nature and dwelling hill. Long ago it was part of area for devotees. When it rains, it rains cultural experiences venue. After two monasteries, and until the 1990s hard, and when a storm comes, it comes she and her partner Gijs accidentally functioned as a mixed farm. I can loud and clear. In spring, the countryside stumbled upon the historic Enne honestly say that I had a slight anxiety literally explodes with life. The rich history Jans Heerd farm, they decided to attack when we received the keys. of this area is evident everywhere, there transform it into a base to share their Taking care of this giant farm suddenly are numerous charming villages, and the enthusiasm about the Hogeland. felt like an enormous responsibility. most beautiful one is, I think, . Our neighbour, who is the daughter Stitswerd is located on a high artificial of the former farmer, was kind enough dwelling hill. If you walk out of the village to explain things to us. The people and look back, you can see it sloping here welcomed us with open arms down. I sometimes catch myself thinking and made us feel right at home.’ it’s rather nice that this area is relatively unknown. On the other hand: people have no idea what they are missing out on.’

14 WALKING ONMUD- FLATS

Enjoy the fresh breeze, whiff up that healthy sea wind and empty your head: crossing the mud flats is an active way to relax. Brave salt marshes, silt fields, sandbars and ditches. At some points you will sink up to your knees in the silt, and then there are channels to wade through. It may require perseverance, but this is what makes crossing the mud flats so very special. Take in the area from all angles and enjoy beautiful panoramic views, silence, the lovely coastal surroundings, and seals. The village of is the perfect starting point for an unforgettable excursion of the seething Waddenzee. HERE

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S This route takes in beautiful churches between Groningen city and . You will find the doors to many of these churches already open to visitors. And if not, you can simply 1 SCHOOLKERK borrow the key from the house next to GARMERWOLDE it. Love the serenity of churches and A white staircase reminiscent of 40 their surroundings? Follow this route an Escher print leads up to the top KM to see more churches and take in the of the old tower in Garmerwolde. beauty and wealth of the Netherlands. Climbing it involves bending under a 2 beam as old as the hills. The tree was DONATUSKERK LEERMENS While some may refer to them as probably cut down sometime around The Donatuskerk of Leermens has beacons of silence, quiet and con­ 1250. Religious celebrations have been here since time immemorial, and templation, others boast of their solid been playfully portrayed along the has also been under construction and appearance or consider all churches stairs. Once you reach the top, you’ll renovation since then. The tuff sidewalls combined to be one huge . be rewarded with a beautiful view. delineate the oldest part from 1050. Sometimes people refer to France or Behold the Schoolkerk; the latest When you enter the transept, you see Tuscany to emphasise the beauty of and recently renovated acquisition of the tuff is mixed with red Roman bricks. Groningen churches. This is totally the Stichting Groningen Kerken. This It is evident that in the 13th century these unnecessary, the churches of Gronin- late-Romanesque church from the bricks were all the fashion. Inside, the gen are simply special as themselves, 13th century includes a combination 15th century on the walls and with their own particular character. of modern and medieval architecture. ceilings immediately catch the eye. Look Originally a cruciform church, its shape up: can you make out the symbols of Groningen churches generally have was lost after the nave was demolished the four Evangelists? And how about ancient roots, deriving their special in 1859. The contours of the nave have the Lamb of God in the vault? From character from the reddish brown been made visible again, which shows the walls, St Donatus, St Sebastian, the Romanesque bricks that were fired that this must have been quite a large Virgin and Child and St Ursula look using Groningen clay. While their church, certainly when considering the down benevolently. Look closely to see towers are usually modest in height, modest size of this village. Inside the the virgins hiding under Ursula’s cloak. they stand head and shoulders above church are tableaux from the life of And who could that crowned figure next the artificial dwelling hills. Their interiors, Christ. They were probably created by to Sebastian be? Maybe it’s Emperor with old murals and beautiful vaults, Jan van Aken (1380-1454), grandfather Diocletian. The 17th-century pulpit is the are true hidden gems. Welcome of Jeroen Bosch. After your visit, only remaining old piece of furniture; HOLWIERDE to the churches of Groningen. enjoy a drink at the visitors’ centre. everything else was lost in a fire in 1957.

18 19 groningen A round trip through groningen

ALSO 3 4 NICOLAIKERK APPINGEDAM THE CHURCH OF MARSUM WORTH Many Groningen residents consider A church without a village, how can this it a gaffe, but it is actually a fact that be? Where did the village go? This is a sad SEEING Appingedam is a Frisian city; the story really, because virtually the entire medieval centre of the Frisian district population of Marsum died during the Four Groningen churches are included STEDUM of Fivelingo. The Nicolaikerk clearly siege of Delfzijl in 1814. A group of stubborn in the Grootste Museum van Nederland: demonstrates Appingedam’s wealth French soldiers refused to surrender a collection of the most beautiful of those days. It originated as a small because Colonel Maufroy would not churches in the Netherlands. The LOPPERSUM 13th-century church and in a fairly believe that Napoleon had been beaten. Mariakerk of Krewerd is one, and these limited period of time developed Fortunately, the Romanesque church was others are also certainly worth visiting: into a large hall church. This resulted saved, and stands as an icon on an artificial in its status of largest church of the dwelling hill. Construction is assumed to — Groningen Ommelanden and ‘the have been initiated in the second half of UITWIERDE Sint-Hippolytuskerk Nicolai’ really deserves its place in the the 12th century. Outside, on the apse – Concordiaplein 1, Top 100 of Dutch listed buildings. Inside the half-round back of the church – you Middelstum are murals that resurfaced during a can see old monks and nuns on the roof; 5 6 — restoration. They show four crowned this is what the concave and convex tiles MARIAKERK KREWERD SEBASTIAANKERK Adelskerk martyrs and the eponym of the church: are called. Once inside, look up to see a This charming church is located on the If ever there was a robust church, it’s the Hoofdstraat 134, St. Nicolaas of Myra. Want to sit down blue-green attic. While it’s pretty, it’s not artificial dwelling hill of Krewerd. It is Sebastiaanskerk, with its huge buttress Midwolde for a break? Appingedam has plenty original. It is assumed that this church once such a beautiful sight that you could to support the tower. This is not the — of cafés and restaurants with a free had vaults. Similar to the simple benches, almost forget to enter it. And once church’s only special feature, by the Petruskerk view of the old city. Restaurant De the attic was created around 1788 by Jan you do, you will see the second oldest way. Have you ever heard of a ‘reduced Hoofdstraat 74, Basiliek (restaurantdebasiliek.nl), Ates van Holwierde, the carpenter who organ in the Netherlands, which is still westwork’? It’s actually a church Pieterburen which is located in the charming also built the pulpit a few years later. The in operation. Connoisseurs from far and tower built into the church. Although Nicolaas church, is very popular. tabernacle and piscina are medieval. wide come to see it. The church also has it may seem perfectly normal, it really The Stichting Oude Groninger medieval paintings on display, such as isn’t, certainly not in these regions. Its Kerken website provides plenty of the brick imitation and the plant motifs exterior looks Romanesque, while the information about the ninety-plus on the vaults. Another special item is interior with domed vaults and brick churches the foundation owns. This WESTEREMDEN MARSUM the coat of arms filled with attributes imitation is late-Romanesque; in other is the perfect starting point for your used by construction workers: a trowel, words, this is a church in a transitional continued explorations of the rich a carpenter’s square, a hammer and axe. style. The large buttress was added religious heritage of Groningen. No surprises there for a beautifully built much later. Subsidence must have – groningerkerken.nl church like this. There is a story to this been a serious consideration to justify late-Romanesque hall church about a this kind of colossus. Inside, be sure widow Tiadeke, who had a seriously ill son. to look up at the image of Christ, St TIP She lived in a Groningen estate house Catherine with the wheel, St Sebastian Bring your bicycle near Krewerd and promised to have a and the Virgin and Child. For years by train to Stedum, church built if her son recovered. After they were covered and invisible under Loppersum, Appingedam his recovery, Tiadeke failed to keep her a thick layer of chalk. Afterwards, or Delfzijl to start your promise. When her son died later without take a well-deserved break under journey. Alternatively, hire leaving any children, she still had the the apple trees of the De Luingahof an e-scooter such as at church built out of remorse. The Mariakerk tearoom and fruit and vegetable eglider.nl in Groningen is naturally included in Het Grootse trade. Be sure to get your Fladderak city to make your very Museum van Nederland: a collection Kouk cake at the Bakkerij Olinga own customised route. of the most beautiful Dutch churches. cake champion (bakkerij.olinga.nl).

20 21 groningen The countryside as a stage

FESTIVAL HONGERIGE WOLF IS UNLIKE ANY OTHER THE FESTIVAL. ‘DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY AMONG FIELDS OF COUNTRY TOWERING GRAIN' Every year, the Festival Hongerige Wolf programme is a shared task for the celebrates the beauty of the organisation and village residents. ‘It is region. Visitors are not just drawn by obvious that they love being involved, one particular band or performance, which has forged strong relationships AS A STAGE but instead by the total experience. and the involvement of locals.’ With the countryside as its breathtaking backdrop, immerse yourself in this BIRDS SINGING IN THE Text: Chris Zwart combined village and festival event. AMBONEZENBOSJE The village and countryside play the Besides the city, the province of If you think that the Festival Hongerige leading role in the woodland located Groningen is known for its tranquillity, Wolf is held on a typical festival site, festival programme and also function as its views and contemplation that come with you’re mistaken: it takes over the backdrop. The Ambonezenbosje – located the countryside. But don’t be deceived entire village of Hongerige Wolf in the just outside of the village and behind the by appearances, because the Ommeland north-eastern tip of the Netherlands. polder dyke – is just one of many places region has its own distinct buzz. Festivals Hongerige Wolf (Hungry Wolf): it is to find special and interesting things. such as Hongerige Wolf, Grasnapolsky hard to find a prettier name. Artistic and Terug naar het Begin celebrate director Anna van Houwelingen ‘I think it is the best location and I have the special character of the Groningen attended the very first festival held in had some magical moments there. One countryside and heritage. 2010 and was instantly and completely of them was when I heard a girl playing smitten. In conjunction with her team, her harp there and finding herself she deals with the artistic approach, drowned out by the whistling of birds. the programme and staging. And last year’s festival featured a dance performance involving the audience ‘It was really special and a bit makeshift, being guided through the wood by a but in a fun way. Visitors would find long rope. Everyone was dead silent, themselves in people’s living room eyes wide open. Wonderful events like watching a totally out-of-this-world these, in the middle of the countryside, film. Hongerige Wolf was unorthodox are typical of Hongerige Wolf.’ and different from the get-go. I had never been to a festival that transforms The extensive fields of yellow waving grain an entire village into festival grounds are an intrinsic element of Hongerige and where all of the villagers chip in.’ Wolf. They are the very backdrop of the festival, and at times actually become The Festival Hongerige Wolf would have part of it. ‘The last two times we set up never seen the light of day without the our ‘dance silo’ on a concrete slab in the help and support of the approximately middle of a grain field.’ Anna raises her 70 villagers that got involved. Selecting hand above her head. ‘People dancing in the locations and deciding on the grain this tall; a wonderful view.’

22 23 groningen The countryside as a stage

FESTI- VALS

Noorderzon, Eurosonic Dag van het Wad Noorderslag, Clash, Paradigm, June Stadspark live: Groningen is The Dag van het Wad a city of festivals. And plenty always takes place in the last more is happening almost weekend of June. Explore the all year round, all over the : listen to stories province. Special concerts by beachcombers, venture and festivals, each with a out onto the mud flats with a distinctive character and guide or sleep under the starry atmosphere, are held against sky in the lee of the dyke. the backdrop of entire villages - dagvanhetwad.nl and even the countryside. Pura Vida Grasnapolsky August March Once a year, the Noord Another special place is the polder are the ‘sensations’. ‘Grain-grinding a festival, for visitors from large cities Grasnapolsky combines that Nederlands Orkest (NNO; dyke. A few years ago, an art installation demonstrations are held at the mill, in particular. ‘The festival introduces sense of being barefoot on the North Netherlands symphony was set up there; a sort of wooden half- and local residents take visitors for a visitors to the area in a really fun way, grass with the warmth of an orchestra) plays the Pura Vida circle for people to sit in and absorb salt marsh walk or harrier excursion.’ taking them out of their busy lives open fire. Explore everything open-air concert, which is the environment. ‘Entirely sheltered The festival also features an extensive and immersing themselves in this and more in the former free for everyone to enjoy. and closed off from everything behind children’s programme. ‘Hongerige idyllic village: our focus exactly.’ De Toekomst strawboard - .nl you, it had a beautiful view of the salt Wolf really has something for everyone, factory, from music and art marshes. Like watching the end of the including for those who simply wish to And what exactly happens if they do to regional exhibitions. Zomerjazzfietstour world really, just so pretty.’ relax on a straw bale and look around.’ this? ‘Everyone who has the opportunity - grasnapolsky.nl August should really come to Hongerige Wolf Jazz in a barn or a church: BE AMAZED Don’t make the mistake of thinking you once during their lifetime. They’ll Terug naar het Begin every year in August, the Hongerige Wolf visitors come from will see famous artists at the festival. step into an entirely different world. May Reitdiepdal is the backdrop the province as well as from the This simply does not suit the character It’s just so relaxed and quiet, yet Plenty of good things take of the Zomerjazzfietstour. No Amsterdam and Utrecht regions. The or goal: ‘People come to Hongerige with so much going on, and you feel place in the relatively unknown fewer than thirty concerts, easily accessible character ensures a fun Wolf for the complete experience. you’re going out of normal time.’ churches in north-eastern divided over five routes, take festival for everyone. ‘We do schedule The power of this festival is in taking Groningen. Enjoy enchanting place throughout the beautiful more complicated performances, but in things you have never seen before music, endearing stories artificial dwelling hill area. these are relatively short. I want people and that will leave you marvelling.’ and interesting art projects. - zjft.nl who do not normally go to the theatre Follow your self-selected to think: wow, what did I just watch?’ A DIFFERENT WORLD 'OUR GOAL IS FOR route to take in winding roads Find more concerts and The festival celebrates its 10th THE FESTIVAL TO and old seawalls. Get ready festivals in the city and Almost every artistic discipline is anniversary in 2020, and the concept to plug out and tune in. province of Groningen at found at Hongerige Wolf: visual art, has remained unchanged over the INTRODUCE PEOPLE - terugnaarhetbegin.nl visitgroningen.com/whats-on. rock and classical music, dance, years. Anna thinks that Hongerige TO THE AREA' theatre and literature. And then there Wolf should exceed the definition of

24 25 AN OLD CITY WITH A YOUNG HEART

53° 13’ 27” N, 6° 33’ 18” E groningen 11 x city

— — — FORUM Meeting place Food and drink Shopping Forum Groningen De Groene Stoel Laif & Nuver A meeting place in the heart Have a well-deserved break Check out the beautiful items 11 TIMES of the city for those with an from the hustle and bustle and and gifts in this brand-new interest in our contemporary enjoy dishes from all over the shop. It’s the perfect place world and the possibilities world. Besides using organic and to go for lifestyle items and CITY of tomorrow, the distinctive regional ingredients The Groene gifts, home decoration items Forum is a relatively new Stoel also has a good story to go and unlimited inspiration. addition to Groningen city with their food. The Groene Stoel – laifennuver.nl You can feel the energy when you look over the city from centre. It features Storyworld, is a place where refugees can — the Martinitoren, or as you walk through the old city streets. film theatres, the Smartlab, regain self-confidence. Integra- Versatility and guts Groningen has so many undiscovered gems, lovely boutiques a restaurant and cafés, the tion at its best! – visit­gro­ningen. Groninger Museum and small-scale high-quality restaurants. Turn down any street Groningen Store (VVV) the com/groenestoel Established in 1994, the and open the door to an almshouse for some quiet and solitude. city library and the highest — Groninger Museum’s striking Enjoy a cold glass of beer at a local pub and learn more about roof garden in Groningen. Grand warehouses architecture has been a topic the culture of Groningen. Oh, and a phenomenal Hoge and Lage der A of discussion ever since. view of course. - forum.nl Old warehouses by the canal tell And let’s be honest: its — the story of the industry of former colourful exterior alone is — — — Breathtaking days, when ships would enter and reason enough to visit. GRONINGER Old Grey Chill in the greenery Lively market Main railway station depart. Stroll along the quays These walls exude creative MUSEUM Martinitoren Noorderplantsoen Vismarkt The stately Groningen main with listed buildings where you energy and its highly Fire, lightning or collapse: On sunny days, the Market workers shout out their railway station is the most can almost hear wheels rattling versatile collection and the Martinitoren has stood banks of the ponds in the wares as cyclists wind around beautiful one you will see in the and horses stamping as they innovative exhibitions firm, even in times of war. 97 Noorderplantsoen park are pedestrians. People buy their Netherlands, so missing your did long ago. It’s like you have complete your experience. metres high, Old Grey is still crowded. Would these people lunch in the former Korenbeurs train really isn’t much of an issue. stepped right into a . - groningermuseum.nl the highest building in the city. be aware of the fact that wars corn exchange, or enjoy a snack Climb up, and experience its were fought here, on the of fried fish. This is where shops, tangible history and enjoy the remnants of an old fortress? Or restaurants and cafés invite MARTINITOREN VERA wonderful view. Once back that, way before then, the hills you into their historic venues on solid ground, don’t forget in the area originated from an under the watchful eye of the to check out the beautiful ice cap being pushed along? Der Aa-Kerk. The Vismarkt Martinikerk. – visitgroningen. But then again: why think about is a hive of city activity, and com/martinitoren this when you can spend some has been for centuries. — time chilling in the park? Entertainment and music — Vera Another world DE GROENE STOEL MAIN RAILWAY Vera is the ultimate centre and Prinsentuin STATION venue for Groningen pop music Close to the Martinitoren is culture. This is where bands and the most tranquil venue of the artists such as U2, Nirvana and city centre. Surrounded by the Nick Cave received a jump-start walls of the leafy and flowery HOGE AND LAGE DER A to global fame. When you enter, Prinsentuin garden, it’s easy to you cannot miss how the walls imagine yourself in an entirely are completely covered with different world. Wander through posters, newspapers and photos the pergolas, enjoy a cup of tea from the venue’s rich musical at the tearoom or read a book history. - vera-groningen.nl and forget all about the time.

28 29 PRINSENHOF GRONINGEN DISCOVER THE ENDLESS HORIZON OF THE GRONINGEN WADDEN

GRAND CAFÉ HOTEL RESTAURANT NASSAU

You don’t have to go to an island to experience the take an invigorating walk on the seabed. Watch beauty of the Wadden. From the Oldambt to seals as they wait patiently on the sandbanks for Lauwersmeer National Park: Groningen’s fresh food to come rolling in with the tides or admire 100-kilometre long Wadden coast has a great deal the thousands of migratory birds enjoying the to offer. Let your imagination run free in the vast smorgasbord at the edge of the Dollard. Discover beauty of the marshlands and polders or the magic of the Wadden in Groningen.

Want to learn more about the Wadden area in Groningen?

Visit www.visitwadden.nl www.prinsenhof.nl

+31 (0) 50 3176555 | martinikerkhof 23 | [email protected] THE OLDGREY MARTINI- TOREN

Fire, lightning or collapse: the Martinitoren has stood firm, even in times of war. 97 metres high, Old Grey is still the highest building in the city. Climb up, and experience its tangible history and enjoy the wonderful view. Once back on solid ground, don’t forget to check out the beautiful Martinikerk ART IN SUBTLE PLACES

HERE

OFF THE ART IN SUBTLE PLACES BEATEN IN AND TRACK AROUND THE CITY

MAP OUT YOUR OWN ROUTE 1 ENGELBERT The best way to explore a city is to NATURAL POOL simply start walking. Turn into that When the weather is nice, the Stads­ 2 particular small street and look up, strand city beach is a lovely option for HELPMAN or down. And be sure to broaden a refreshing dip. However, those with In the Helpman and adjacent districts your exploratory expedition beyond a soft spot for nostalgia had better opt of Villabuurt and Coendersborg you will city centre limits to take in all of the for the Engelbert open-air swimming see one substantial house next to the surprises and special venues. We will pool. Experienced swimmers dive from other. Originally a village, Helpman was naturally provide you with some tips the five-metre high diving tower in a eventually swallowed up by the city. This you can use to create your own route. 1950s holiday environment. This is one is the place where, centuries ago, rich of the few remaining perfect open-air Groningen residents had their country Groningen carries one great risk, swimming pools in the Netherlands, houses built on the ridge. namely that people stick around the with a particular history: it would A green oasis within a green oasis, the city centre. This is a pity if you consider never have been realised without the Landgoed Groenestein is of particular ENGELBERT the great places outside of the centre: Woldjesspoorlijn. This railway line went interest. Cycle or walk through the a special building, a green oasis, a bankrupt after a very short period of streets and imagine living here. Enjoy a picturesque neighbourhood or a small- time, but between 1929 and 1942 it meal at Bistro Basta (bistrobasta.com), scale and high-quality restaurant. Walk connected Groningen and Delfzijl famous Italian Contini (contini.nl) or Uit around, or get those legs working on via . Sand was required de Buurt (uitdebuurt.com) that serves your bike to take in special venues. for the construction of the railway dishes made from regional produce. Enjoy a beer in a local pub and learn embankment, which was obtained If you think you have seen the leafiest more about Groningen culture. And from the natural pool. Engelbert still district ever, you really should continue feel free to ask questions, because features a beautiful station from that to Haren and Glimmen via Essen, via that friendly local next to you will era. This green environment is perfect that lovely bridge across the railway. This certainly have some wonderful tips. for lovely bicycle rides, but beware: is where racing cyclists come to train you might easily end up far, far beyond their calf muscles before heading out DE SUIKER Slochteren. – natuurbadengelbert.nl into the otherwise fairly flat countryside.

34 35 groningen off the beaten track

Oosterpark en Wall House Reitdiep Haven ALSO het Blauwe Dorp Utrecht has the Rietveldhuis, The Reitdiephaven harbour There is absolutely no reason Fayette County has Falling­ is one of the most frequently WORTH whatsoever for you to leave the water, and Groningen has photographed places in Gro- city to be able to experience a the Wall House. It’s quite ningen. Do you like it? With SEEING Groningen village. Just venture surprising that you don’t see its Scandinavian touch, it’s out to the Blauwe Dorp in the crowds of tourists waiting here certainly very colourful. Oosterparkwijk district, where every day to visit it, because — you see the cutest ‘house farms’ it is a really special house Hoornsedijk in green. The Oosterpark district and an icon from the city’s Cycle through a delightfully itself is dotted with Amsterdam international architectural green and leafy area along a School architectural jewels. history by John Hejduk. small strip by the Hoornsemeer, Enjoy a meal at the Bie de – groningermuseum.nl where the Hoornse Diep – Buuf restaurant (biedebuuf.nl) — this is what Drentse Aa river and savour the aroma of fresh Hoogkerk is called here – meanders coffee at the Microbranderij Even many Groningen residents cheerfully beside you. Koffiestationkoffiestation.nl ( ). are completely oblivious to the — WALL HOUSE HOORNSEDIJK — fact that Hoogkerk is a rough Wiebengacomplex De Suiker diamond. If you have a soft spot In 1923, the Wiebengacomplex What is to be transformed into a for the rough industrialism, in the Korrewegwijk was the STADSPARK 3 4 lively new district over the next be sure to come check the most modern building in the STADSPARK ART IN SUBTLE PLACES few years currently functions area out. The Halmbuurt is Netherlands. The architectural In 1907, Groningen received the best Should you prefer to remain in the city, as a place for experimentation. a charming factory district, style is referred to as the New gift ever: a complete park! One of the you really should take in some art. In The former location of the the houses of which are part Objectivity. Alas, it proved benefactors was industrial magnate Groningen, you will rarely see art on a Suikerfabriek sugar factory is of the Strokartonfabriek De to be too modern, even for Jan Evert Scholten, who had made a pedestal, because it is considered part of brimming with initiatives, such Halm: one large chunk of this city, and a few years fortune from sugar beets, potatoes the city. If you look around closely, you as Podium EM2, the RebelRebel Groningen bricks. Close by is following its completion it and straw. Today the Stadspark still will see more and more works of art in Hostel, De Wolkenfabriek another comparable district: was hidden behind a row is one of Groningen’s finest outdoor subtle and not so subtle places. With its restaurant and Paradigm: the the Suikerbuurt, which is of houses. It is now a listed locations, where rich history meets the bronze door that never opens and a text best underground club in the overlooked by the giant Suiker building and functions as an beautiful countryside. We’ll let you in bricked into a wall, the Folkingestraat Benelux. – suikerterrein.nl Unie factory behind it. educational establishment. on a secret here: although the popular is a good example. See six bronze frogs Noorderplantsoen near the city centre sitting in the street at the Hoge der A. is lovely, the Stadspark has way more to And you will even find art under three REITDIEP HAVEN offer. It’s just so much quieter and larger. bridges, so waiting for a bridge to close Sonsbeek in Arnhem; the Vondelpark in doesn’t hurt at all. And then there are Amsterdam; the Hague Zuiderpark: they these beautiful structures that pop up all are all tiny compared to this 140-hectare over the city, from the video bus stop by URINAL KOOLHAAS AND OLAF gift to the city. So if you have children, Rem Koolhaas and the Tschumipaviljoen be sure to take them to the petting zoo. to this distinctive urinal, also designed Otherwise, there’s room to walk, cycle by Rem Koolhaas. Erwin Olaf was and spend time at the waterside with responsible for the photo on the round lovely views of the English-styled park. public lavatory. – kunstopstraat.nl

36 37 53° 14’ 12.4” N, 7° 12’ 24,6” E

WHERE LAND MEETS THE WADDEN groningen 11 x countryside

— — — LAUWERSMEER Hiking and cycling Canoeing Plants & Flowers Noordlaarderbos Valley of the Ruiten Aa Domies Toen This wooded area feels like In Westerwolde, the Ruiten How many plant varieties do you 11 TIMES a magical place, where cart Aa river has taken up its think an area of just under one tracks are reminiscent of old familiar course through hectare can hold? In Domies the former road between the countryside. Animals Toen in Pieterburen, the count is COUNTRYSIDE Coevorden and Groningen. Be are permitted to roam free, at 950. A colourful and flowery sure to follow the tracks to the ensuring thrilling walks and example of a museum garden burial mounds and a gallows hikes in the lush vegetation. with winding paths, it consti- Groningen was shaped by water, clay, sand and peat. This is hillock. The Noordlaarderbos Various companies rent canoes tutes the Groningen variant where you sink knee-deep into the Waddenzee silt and where and surrounding area is perfect for venturing out on the of an English landscape-style you can sail past sandbars covered with seals. Millions of for hikes and bicycle rides. meandering river with its slight garden. The gentle humming migratory birds fill the air and Konik horses grace the pastures – natuurmonumenten.nl rapids. – natuurmonumenten.nl of insects is the only sound you around the Lauwersmeer lake. And then there are the wooded hear. - domiestoen.nl areas and charming valleys of brooks and rivers such as the — Ruiten Aa and the Drentse Aa. People, you say? Oh, you’ll Water OLDAMBTMEER CANOE RUITEN AA hardly see a soul here, so there is no need to worry about Oldambtmeer leaving the odd temporary footprint in a virgin piece of land. Today, the wind creates blue waves where yellow grain once swayed, in an area perfect for walking, cycling and boat — — — excursions. Hire a sloop, motor- A dream palace Rugged countryside Outside the dyke boat, sailing boat or canoe at made of straw Nationaal Park Lauwersmeer Kiekkaaste the marina. - oldambtmeer.nl Hayema Heerd The landscape of the Lauwers­ The water breaks over the mud — Go natural and spend the meer can be summarised in one flats while birds pick for food Knee-deep in silt night in a straw castle, in a single word: exceptional – ex- near the Kiekkaaste at Nieuwe Crossing the mudflats canopy made of straw, in a ceptional enough to have been Statenzijl. This birdwatcher’s Take a step forward with covered wagon, or a straw proclaimed a National Park. The hut – the only one in the your right foot to find out igloo. Naturally, you can space and tranquillity provide Netherlands outside the dykes your left foot is stuck in the also choose to take your plenty to take in, from special – has a beautiful view of the mud. Your legs are black BLOTEVOETENPAD own tent or caravan. Enjoy flowers and giant numbers of ever-changing seascape. to the knees. Crossing the breakfast at a picnic table birds to fabulous panoramic - groningerlandschap.nl mudflats is a magnificent and with a view of the magnificent views. - np-lauwersmeer.nl — unforgettable experience. Groningen countryside. — Fun with the children – visitgroningen.com/mudflats - hayemaheerd.nl Birdwatching Blotevoetenpad Opende BIRDWATCHING — De Onlanden Is it an obstacle course, a DOEZOO Fun with the children Near the city of Groningen is footpath or both? Two things DoeZoo an unbroken scenic area about we know for sure: you must If you think nature is boring, the size of 3,500 football take your shoes and socks off you’ve never been to DoeZoo. pitches. With a little luck, this and you won’t stay clean. This is where a snake can curl is where you can spot the most – staatsbosbeheer.nl up around your neck and you beautiful and special birds from can pet a skunk! Hearing, sight, the 26-metre high watchtower. touch, smell and taste; all of Who knows, maybe you’ll also your senses are awakened. see a roe deer, fox or otter! MUDFLATS - doezoo.nl – natuurmonumenten.nl BIRDWATCHING DE ONLANDEN

40 41 groningen Westerwolde Region

Westerwolde? Few widely-travelled way up to the village of Ter Apel. We WESTERWOLDE people in the Netherlands would know enjoy looking at how the lines of the where to find this Groningen region, road and river constantly intertwine and let alone foreign tourists. All the more affect one another. They thrust out, find reason for scenery expert Wim Boetze each other and interweave. Meanwhile a REGION DRENTHE and biologist and explorer Peter de film plays out before our eyes: avenues, Kan to join forces and plan an entire boulevards, yards, farms and villages. weekend to explore this area together. We see beautiful old hamlets, such as Wessinghuizen, Ter Wupping, Smeerling, COUNTRYSIDE It can get extremely quiet in Ellingersinghuizen and Ter Borg. And Westerwolde, especially in winter. This then there are the old farms with an was also the case when we set out in austere and historic architecture, framed the last week of February. Those who by fairy-like heavy oaks and linden trees. THAT ENDED UP travel around Drenthe, looking over the Time seems to have stopped here. extensive Veenkoloniën peat district from the Hondsrug ridge, tend to turn Okay, so if you send a biologist and around instantly and return home. scenery expert out to explore, this IN GRONINGEN That is a pity, because they will never undoubtedly involves a thorough study know that there is even more romantic of the maps and a visit to the area. This scenery right there waiting for them, will teach us how narrow the stream Text: Wim Boetze & Peter de Kan if they stay the course for just another valley landscape is at some places, 30 kilometres by bike. Westerwolde, although much has improved in two located in a leafy area that fringes the decades. We examine large pieces of eastern between Groningen and reclaimed land that border the river , is definitely worth exploring. valley and which have transformed into new scenery. Great lengths of the If you’re travelling from the north, canalised Ruiten Aa have been restored the village of , located on the to their former original meandering Westerwoldse Aa river, is your gate to course. The brook is fast-flowing again Westerwolde. Opt for the quick route and the old farmlands are mainly via the secondary road, or the scenic owned by Staatsbosbeheer (Forestry one – the former main road – which is Commission) and Natuurmonumenten longer and takes in villages and grand (Society for the Preservation of avenues of trees. We naturally take the Nature). To all of you hiking fans: old road which runs by the Aa, all the you have come to the right place.

'OLD FARMS WITH AN AUSTERE AND HISTORIC ARCHITECTURE, FRAMED BY FAIRY-LIKE HEAVY OAKS AND LINDEN TREES'

42 43 groningen Westerwolde Region

A hill by the Aa near features While Drenthe countryside has a support stand with a revolving stage received a more thorough polishing frame. This work of art by Adriaan Nette up because of the tourist industry, was inspired by the interventions in the Westerwolde has retained a certain brook. On the edge of the framework level of roughness. Many farms are is a text by Benedictine monk and inhabited by generations of old architect Dom Hans van der Laan: ‘Alsof farming families, their yards adorned de natuur wacht op het werk van onze by a few large trees and the occasional handen om geheel compleet te zijn.’ rhododendron. Roads mainly come in (As if nature is waiting for the work of our the shape of sandy tracks with a bicycle hands to complete it.) Over a period of path beside them, just like you would fifteen years, the hill was provided with see in the Netherlands of the 1950s. fifteen treads, each with a stanza of a well-known poet, together composing a Hotels, cafés and restaurants in the flight of steps. The hill is popularly called larger villages serve meatball rolls and the poets’ hill. Artist Adriaan Nette refers other meals. In winter, get your salad to it as the ‘Theater van de Natuur’. roll at the bakery in Sellingen. Some

venues celebrate the region with great quiet, and the well-equipped villas are to say that Westerwolde is more than exuberance, such as at the Gasterij perfect for slowing down, or to finally just meandering brooks with wadeable Natuurlijk Smeerling (gasterij-natuurlijk- make a start with the book you have places and plenty of green banks. smeerling.nl). During our two-day winter wanted to read or write for ages. At stay, we went the Boschhuis in Ter night, enjoy the starry sky and milky We had planned to mention the Apel for a good menu and a delicious way like you’ve never seen it before. fairy-like location in the Borg draught beer (hotelboschhuis.nl). countryside, the beautiful Ruiten Aa We decide instead to venture out Kanaal with eight sluices, and the This region provides plenty of overnight off-site and book a room in the monastery in the ancient wooded accommodation, also in winter. Mainly Bourtange fortress. This proves to areas of Ter Apel. But then again, small-scale and friendly, you will be a splendid idea, if only for the the Westerwolde countryside is find a larger tourist accommodation sensation of walking through a well- about quiet and – how typical of venue at the Villapark Weddermeer. maintained historic monument in the Groningen – few words. It is simply As soon as the tourist season ceases, early evening, or to end the day with best to explore these and other this location permeates peace and a gin in the friendly fortress café. Just wonderful places all by yourself.

'ENJOY THE STARRY SKY AND MILKY WAY LIKE YOU’VE NEVER SEEN IT BEFORE.'

44 45 UNSPOILT WILDERNESS ONTHEOLD SEABED

National Park Lauwersmeer is a special scenic area. This is where salt water turned to fresh. Featuring extraordinary flora and fauna, this is where wild Konik horses, birds – including predators – and a colourful plant growth all flourish. Take time to walk, cycle, sail or go out on a safari in a tuk-tuk. In a busy modern country, here is quiet, space and unspoilt wilderness. groningen up to the dyke

PART 1: NIEUWE STATENZIJL ‘We hardly ever receive visitors because relatives say we live in LAUNCH INTO the back of beyond. It depends on your point of view of course; this is where the world is right at your feet.’ We nod. Being star UP TO SPACE HERE travellers, we hear him. A bit further on, near the opening of the inner dyke, a knot is tied in eternity and time resumes its natural rhythm. This opening – referred to as cut-offs by engineers and as holes by THE DYKE laymen – functions as an assembly point where two polders meet. A building typical of the region is located on the dyke, and houses logs. These logs are used to slide into the slots of a dyke wall in the event of a breach. Text: Bram Esser • Photography: Peter de Kan We stop to inspect the lichen on the brick dyke wall: its presence indicates that the air is pure. On the other side is a Picturesque is not a word to describe the bicycle ride bench to rest your feet, facing a scarecrow. Don’t look at it for Fancy a breath of fresh air at the dyke? The down-to-earth from to Nieuwe Statenzijl; at least, not in the too long, or your eyes will trick you that it is actually moving. village of Noordpolderzijl, with its charming old-fashioned traditional sense of the word. But it certainly has other pub, comes highly recommended. But naturally there are many perks. Cycling through this area on your own is a near While approaching the Dollard, farms become increasingly lovely places to choose from. Bram Esser, author of the book spiritual experience. After all, whether you’re cycling solo or scarce and ever bigger. The barns of these giant former or Kustverhalen, and photographer Peter de Kan have explored the in pairs; cycling is something you do for yourself. The journey current granaries are particularly large, making it look as if region. Instead of Noordpolderzijl, they opted for some less well- through this vast space is sure to absorb you, leaving you the farmhouse is somehow bulging out. This is actually true: known places. Up to the dyke and into the Wadden Sea area! feel small and insignificant. farmers often lived in their barns and added a house to it once they had sufficient means. The feeling is not constant. Instead, you are overcome by it every time you stop and pause. We set out on our bikes to the After arriving at Nieuwe Statenzijl, we take the opportunity to Dollard on a wintry day with hardly any wind. After dismounting follow the wooden deck path outside the dyke. The narrow our bicycles, the silence comes over us as we stand in the field. path meanders through reedlands to the Kiekkaaste: a Powerful and overwhelming, the silence is all-embracing, not birdwatcher’s hut in the middle of the salt marsh surrounded in the least because of the infinite views where nothing seems by a sea of reeds that seem to float above the grey waters of to move. A giant space covered in silence, resulting in an out- the Dollard. The yellow stems are reminiscent of the grain that of-the-world sensation. will soon cover the fields on the other side of the dyke.

So this is what astronauts must feel when they float in space, looking down to earth, feeling the weight of silence. Tourist journeys into space are actually a reality: all you have to do is venture out to the north-eastern part of Groningen towards the dyke by bike or on foot.

The sounds of the land just may catch up with you: it rustles and whispers in your ears. As we are standing in the field near Drieborg, we hear a distinctive snapping sound, as if from bubbles. ‘It’s the water drawing off into the clay,’ a passer-by with grey sideboards and a cap explains. He is walking his Pekinese and says he is highly interested in the history of the Oldambt region. For a minute there we are convinced he must Don't forget to bring: be an Englishman, but he is from the city of Groningen and your swimwear for a moved to Driebond after his retirement. refreshing dive on the go.

48 49 groningen up to the dyke

PART 2: BOKUM THE SALT MARSHES BECKON

On a rather windy day, we take a run-up to cross the sea dyke, where bare treetops outline the horizon. We start our excursion in Kloosterburen, a beautiful village which was once located near the coastline, with lovely red brick houses. Being a Catholic village, the locals celebrate Mardi Gras, and a woman tells us that, roughly forty years ago, their floats were not permitted in the Protestantse Kruisweg.

A substantial area of land has been added since the 19th century. As we pass the new and old Bokum farms owned by the Meijer family, we see that their yards feature a varied collection of piles of stones. You might say that farmers are known for making piles, and we observe such piles both in the farmyards themselves and on concrete slabs by the fields. We also notice earth and a mound of small new potatoes around a transformer kiosk and decide to consider them as mental preparation for conquering the pile of all piles: the dyke.

After crossing the inner dyke at Bokum, we take in the The man tells us that he does have sheep, but no land. where to go! It has, however, thrown us off balance as Salt marshes involve considerable exercise and put our charming countryside behind it. It features a hint of light Feddema’s pool was dug in 1924 when, during the we slither along to find solid ground below our feet. muscles to work. The absorbent silt of the salt marshes green on sea clay. Did you know that as much as sixty construction of the Julianapolder, the dyke proved to be throws us off-balance and has certainly taught us a percent of the world’s seed-potatoes is grown near the insufficiently high. It had to be raised at the last moment Miniature tableaux appear as we focus on the ground. Straight lesson in humility. Unsteady and insecure, this area is Groningen and coast? At the seawall is a small using – you might have guessed – soil from the pool. crops – spartina grass and sea spurrey – and silt are all around, incomparable and everyone should see it to experience scenic area to the left, and we see a van approaching. displaying a green icing of algae slime. Osier is piled up between a what it is like to live between land and water. Two men step out and start unloading fence parts. We take in the pool and the small swamp forest around it. row of parallel posts, fenced off with coated iron wire. This is where We are intrigued and ask them why they are here. And although the dyke may try to trick you into believing it silt and mud come together. Between 1930-1950, hundreds of We return via the dyke and admire the beautiful has always been here, this is not the case, as Feddema’s pool unemployed people were put to work here for land reclamation. yellow church tower of Hornhuizen. After enjoying a ‘We’ve come to collect some sheep proves. The dyke is a hillock, and holes were dug elsewhere. No matter what their working career had been, everyone was delicious cup of coffee, we take the bus to that graze in this farmer’s field.’ As we climb the grass covered slope, we wonder about the expected to put their shoulder to the wheel. Since then, our and from there, the train back to Groningen. ‘How can you tell which sheep to collect?’ giant clay pit this dyke originated from. The grass seamlessly attitude towards the unemployed has become more humane, ‘Well, they are my sheep, so I should know.’ changes into asphalt: engineer art pur sang. The wind is and the same goes for our attitude towards the environment. ‘Do you know the name of that little lake?’ gaining in force and we eagerly look at the salt marsh. Its presence is both welcome and required; for humans also. ‘That’s Feddema’s pool, owned by the Forestry Commission.’ After defying a cattle fence, we enter the area outside the Small reed-covered islands seem to float on the water, ‘Do you know anything about how a dykes. Porous and unsteady, the salt marsh is the opposite enticing us to linger. But this area is tricky and merciless Don't forget to bring: scenic area came about in this rather of the dyke; these are places that require consideration. and literally grabs your feet to pull you in and make you one your sun hat, so your rational countryside? Is it a decoy?’ Can I cross here, or should I go that way? No worries: the with nature. And while the Netherlands does not feature partner has something ‘I really wouldn’t know, I’m not into these things.’ countryside will let you know, or rather make you feel any hills, the Waddenzee can be a dangerous place. to run after.

50 51 groningen up to the dyke

OTHER PLACES LAUWERSOOG NOORDKAAP TO GO UP TO THE DYKE

Groningen features various places that open up to the dyke. While some are The village of Lauwersoog is not just the ferry port known to people in the Netherlands, for the island of , it has much ‘De Hemelpoort’ work of art marks Noordkaap finding others may require more effort. more to offer. Artworks are displayed on and around – the northernmost tip of the Dutch mainland. They are worth it: you will find beautiful the dyke, and include a giant fishing net and an This place has an unobstructed view of the water PUNT VAN REIDE views of the salt marshes and some of observation post, to a staircase in the dyke. Sample and the infinite skies above the Wadden Sea the oldest natural landscapes of the fresh fish and enjoy stunning views over the mud area. Noordkaap is located approximately 10 Netherlands: the Wadden Sea. flats. Lauwersoog is also a great location for walking, kilometres north of , and it’s hiking and cycling. Of all destinations by the dyke, easy enough to find from there as the routes by this just might be the easiest to get to. car, bicycle or on foot are clearly signposted.

PIETERBUREN NIEUWSTAD TERMUNTERZIJL

The village of Pieterburen – starting point of Although the Dutch word stad means town or city, many mud flat hikes and famous for its seal This narrow finger of land is what remains of the there’s no town or city in sight here, in any direction. Termunterzijl is the best place to enjoy fish, or sanctuary – is an easy gateway to the Wadden Sea once very wealthy , where nature But you will come across a double dyke: a high one at least many locals think so. Popular places area. There’s also a lovely bicycle path between has now taken over. The journey there takes in beside the sea, and a lower one inland. This is where include fish restaurants Landman and Vispaleis Pieterburen and the dyke. Although it is also the Fiemel Batterie: a remnant of the German safety, countryside, agriculture and recreation all Westerhuis. Here, the dyke overlooks the river accessible by car, the very best way to experience Atlantikwall from World War II. The Punt van come together. The dyke overlooks the Stern bird Eems. And don’t miss out on the beautiful the area is by bike or on foot. From Pieterburen, Reide is located east of Termunten and the tip is breeding island. Nieuwstad is located north of Boog van Ziel lock, with its wonderful options head north and return via Westernieland. accessible only on foot or by bike. Bierum and is accessible by bicycle, car or on foot. for cycling. Park your car near the dyke.

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60KM This 60-kilometre tour takes in the 1 ; THE PLACE FOR 2 NIEHOVE IS MORE beautiful Reitdiep or Hunzedal valley. FISH (OR SOMETHING ELSE) THAN JUST PRETTY Enjoy charming villages, churches and Centuries ago salt was extracted The most beautiful village in the views of the ancient artificial dwelling near Zoutkamp – not from the sea, Netherlands – Niehove – is located hill village. Some destinations on the but instead from the salty peat in Groningen. Well, according to the route are really worth the detour. Feel outside the dyke. ‘Soltcampum’ Elsevier weekly, that is. And yes, Niehove free to shorten or extend your journey. (Salt camp) was first mentioned is charming. From the church, the streets in 1418. For an extended period of fan out in all directions like the spokes Would you call this a river, or a canal? time, this was a lively fishing village of a wheel. Around 800, the village Well, the Reitdiep is really a bit of both. featuring a bulwark strategically was confined to an island as a result of To complicate matters even more, it located by the Lauwerszee. Whoever repeated floods: Humsterland. It would actually constitutes the old Hunze, controlled Zoutkamp controlled the take over six centuries and human which in turn is the upper course of the city of Groningen. It was a place of intervention to reconnect Humsterland Drentse Aa river. The first inhabitants considerable importance during the with the mainland. The monks of ZOUTKAMP settled in the Hunze valley a long time Eighty Years’ War when the city was the Klooster van monastery before the Common Era. The waterway pro-Spanish for a while. Zoutkamp cultivated the area. Until 1830, the 13th- later functioned as a main lifeline for had a fishing port until 1960, when it century Niehove church was surrounded the city for many years. Boats sailed was closed off from the Lauwerszee. by a circular moat to ensure ghosts out to sea from here and the Hunze It still exudes the atmosphere of an would remain at the churchyard. The was straightened to keep the lifeline old-fashioned fishing village though, villagers took water from the moat to use navigable. The river was transformed into and it is a perfect place to enjoy some as drinking and fire extinguishing water. a canal, which is particularly prominent delicious fresh fish. You can also visit Have a look in the church and learn more between the city and . Further the Rijksbetonningsloods by the old about the village’s history. Conclude your to the north, you will find the Reitdiep inland harbour to learn more about visit with a cup of coffee at the Eisseshof meandering through the Groningen Zoutkamp in the Visserijmuseum (eisseshof.nl) pub, which also serves REITDIEP countryside as it used to. fishing museum (visserijmuseum.com). delicious organic Indonesian food.

54 55 groningen A round trip through groningen

— — — ALSO Garnwerd De Waterwolf Aduarderzijl Garnwerd is often referred to The Waterwolf pumping station The Aduarderdiep was dug WORTH as Groningen’s most beautiful was large and modern at its by the monks of Aduard. village. As you walk down the time of completion in 1920. It is At Aduarderzijl it joins the SEEING Burgemeester Brouwerstraat, still one of the largest pumping Reitdiep. For years the lock it’s immediately evident stations in the Netherlands. has been important to control that Niehove has a serious Standing proudly, this wolf the water and this picturesque competitor. A drink or meal at keeps watch over the water. spot is still well worth a stop. the Café Hammingh is quite the — experience (bijhammingh.nl), The Ewer labourer’s cottages you feel like you’ve gone back Ewer does not comprise much in time to the year 1876. more than four farms and five — typical labourer’s cottages. But The church of then, it’s all it needs, because Tourists gladly make a detour to we are sure you’ll stop here. take in Fransum, where they are — REITDIEPVEER likely to spend more time than 3 THE ICONIC EZINGE 4 ALLERSMA: THE GRONINGEN intended. This artificial dwelling The Oostum artificial dwelling ARTIFICIAL DWELLING HILL ESTATE HOUSE OF DUURT hill features a beautiful church hill was a favourite subject The word ‘wierde’ (artificial dwelling hill) When entering from the village of with the oldest brick pulpit in of the artists of the De Ploeg evokes the name of the village of Ezinge Ezinge or Aduarderzijl, it’s easy to the Netherlands. Be sure to collective, and we are quite for many. This may come as no surprise, miss the Allersmaborg. In 1489, one follow the bicycle route through sure you will love it as well. because it actually is an icon. Archaeologist Duurt Allersma lived in this charming the pastures (kerkfransum.nl). — From 1 April until the A.E. van Giffen found evidence that this location with sheltering tree belts, an — Zuidema’s Klap final day of the autumn area has been inhabited for centuries. orchard and a moat with drawbridge. Feerwerd Few bridges measure up to half-term holiday, the If you take a closer look at this wierde; His assumed function was to guard the Feerwerd is just another in Zuidema’s Klap. Its age is Reitdiepveer ferry it looks as if someone took a bite from sluice at the Reitdiep. The back of the this long list of beauties. This no mystery: the year 1879 takes hikers and cyclists it. This is because before the war, many house is the oldest part. When visiting village features a 13th-century is clearly visible on the cast from Schaphalsterzijl artificial dwelling hills were levelled to sell the estate house, there is no way you church in a 19th-century design. iron ornament. The bridge is to Aduarderzijl and the fertile land. We now consider it to be a can miss the huge dovecote. Doves Just outside the village is called Zuidema because of vice versa. Refer to shame, but in those days people thought that land here must feel like royalty. the Korenmolen Joeswert the obvious reason that the reitdiepveer.nl for in terms of money. On the outskirts of This actually is a copy of the dovecote (joeswert.nl) corn mill, which Zuidema family lived nearby. the timetable. the dwelling hill is a Romanesque hall Duurt Elama – a descendant of the sells Groningen spelt flour. ‘Klap’ refers to ‘lift bridge’. church and a free-standing tower. It was Duurt above – had built around 1650. not uncommon in Groningen to build Annie Vriezen, the last estate house DE WATERWOLF NIEHOVE free-standing towers. They had a strategic resident, was the key figure of an artist function in times of need, when the master colony that lived, worked and exhibited would be at the estate house and the here. Famous artists loved to visit, tower kept the villagers safe. The Museum which becomes perfectly clear when Wierdenland in Ezinge is the proper place you stroll around the grounds, which to learn more about artificial dwelling hills. cannot fail to inspire. If you decide If you would like a drink or something to to visit, take a walk around the moat eat, there is the nostalgic café-restaurant or pick an apple from the orchard in De Brug, a low-key venue. - wierdenland.nl autumn. - beijk.com/allersmaborg/

56 SPECIAL AND ANCIENT

53° 18’ 33” N, 6° 26’ 35” E groningen 11 x Heritage

— — — BOURTANGE Architecture Back in time Impregnable fortress Amsterdam School Iwema Steenhuis Bourtange Elegant, and featuring beautiful Once a general picture in the The banks, canals and red draw- 11 TIMES brick details made from Gronin­ province, today the Iwema bridges of the Bourtange fortress gen clay, Groningen has so many Steenhuis is the last remaining are open to welcome visitors to Amsterdam School houses and of 200 estate houses. The ‘t the thrilling year of 1742. William HERITAGE buildings that it could be referred Steenhuis Molen- en Bakkerij­ of Orange ordered the fortress to as the Groningen School museum is established in the to be constructed on a strategic instead. Entire districts in the city barn behind it, and the garden location: a high sand ridge in the Determined and wilful, Groningen residents have built of Groningen were built in this proudly presents a royal red middle of the Boertangermoeras dwelling hills on fertile salt marshes and even established style, such as the Korrewegbuurt, beech – the thickest tree in swamp. During the Eighty Years’ an impregnable fortress in a marsh. This attitude is also the Oosterpark and the Oranje­ the province. In the orchard War, this is what kept pro-Spanish recognised in robust churches, Groningen estate houses buurt. Oud-West Delfzijl is just you’ll find old apple and troops at bay. In 1672, Bourtange and creative architecture. This is how they controlled the another wonderful example of pear varieties. A very idyllic also proved too strong for the land. Scoop by scoop, brick by brick. an Amsterdam School district. countryside scene indeed. bishop of Münster to conquer. – staatingroningen.nl - groningerlandschap.nl Today you can just walk into the — impregnable Groningen fortress — — — Sailing through history that has been restored to its OLDAMBT Hanging Kitchens Bread and beer A view of the mudflats Noordelijk former glory. - bourtange.nl APPINGEDAM Appingedam De Graanrepubliek Hornhuizen church Scheepvaartmuseum — Just two places in the province So where to go and enjoy the The Hornhuizen church is If you are into nautical history, Farmhouses of Groningen had real medieval flavours of that rich Groningen open to everyone, and if you you really should visit the Oldambt region city rights: Groningen city and grain history? Put your taste enter, be sure to climb the two historic buildings at the Would you call this a farm or a Appingedam. The medieval buds to work in the former tower. It has a beautiful view Brugstraat – the 14th century palace? Well, maybe both suit wealth of Appingedam is still Stoomlocomotiefloods in Bad of the Groningen countryside, Gothic house and the 15th the description. One of the best visible everywhere. Just look at Nieuweschans, a listed building the mudflats and the island century Canterhuis – that form examples being the Hermans the ornate Nicolaïkerk church, or where you can now enjoy of Schiermonnikoog in the the lovely backdrop of the farm in Midwolde, the Oldamt the hanging kitchens suspended fresh and delicious Groningen distance. Take a really close look Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum region is dotted with these above the Damsterdiep, similar bread, beer and much more. on the way up to see the ‘graffiti’ collection. Take in the history of gentleman farmers’ houses. to bay windows. – visitgro- - graanrepubliek.nl by French soldiers who were the shipbuilding industry and Other fine examples are found ningen.com/appingedam — billeted in Hornhuizen in 1810. shipping of the north of the on the Hogeland. The yellow — Ancient artificial - kerkhornhuizen.nl Netherlands from the Middle grain brought enormous wealth, Swimming 1950s style Dwelling hill villages — Ages until today. - noordelijk­ especially in the 19th century. – De Papiermolen Only those who have never E-bike bicycle route scheepvaartmuseum.nl visitgroningen.com/farmhouses In the 1950s, Groningen visited Groningen might think In the tracks of De Ploeg presented a brand-new it’s as flat as a pancake, but Replicas of well-known De open-air swimming pool: once you venture out into the Ploeg paintings have been SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM De Papiermolen. One of the countryside, you see villages set up in the countryside at finest samples of open-air built on hillocks, referred to twenty-five locations. Each pools in the Netherlands, its as artificial dwelling hills. The one was placed at a certain beautiful original mural has centres of these villages often location for a particular reason: recently been restored to its full feature a robust medieval because it was created there, or splendour. Immerse yourself church, and together they because the location inspired in days long gone – without just might be the most typical the artist. Take in these replicas those woolly swimming trunks feature of the province of during an e-bike or bicycle people wore back then. Groningen. – visitgroningen. ride through the province. AMSTERDAM – sport050.nl com/mound-villages – groningermuseum.nl SCHOOL

DE PAPIERMOLEN

60 61 groningen Rural idyll RURAL IDYLL

In 2019, Niehove was declared the most beautiful village in the Netherlands. Did it deserve the title? Niehove certainly is charming. On the other hand, several other Groningen villages could easily give Niehove a run for its money. Take a leisurely trip by car through the Groningen Ommeland and see these picturesque villages for yourself. TERMUNTEN

MIDWOLDE NOORDLAREN If you are planning a visit to the When heading for the rural and charming Landgoed Nienoord rural estate near village of Noordlaren, you could easily Leek, be sure to take the scenic route imagine that the city of Groningen is on there, via the lovely village of Midwolde. the border with the green and wooded The name Midwolde roughly translates province of Drenthe. This area is home as ‘in the centre of the forest’. The forest to many relics of the past, including the disappeared long ago, but before then 13th-century Bartholomeüskerk church this boggy and thickly-grown area was and the even older megalith just outside impenetrable. If you are touring by of the village. Around Noordlaren is the bicycle, turn at the church and take the beautiful Hondsrug ridge countryside, driveway to Nienoord. This is the way with plenty of options for lovely bicycle the noble Van Ewsum and Von Inn- und rides and walking tours. If you are into Knyphausen families would travel to excitement and suspense, head out for ‘their’ Adelskerk, a very distinctive 12th- the Noordlaarderbos when dusk falls. century church. It is part of the Grootste This is where you find a medieval gallows Museum van Nederland: a collection between trees. Start your bike ride in the of the most beautiful churches in the city: head for Haren, then cycle to Onnen Netherlands. This is where you can see and return via Glimmen and Appelbergen: the impressive monument created a charming wooded area that takes in the by Rombout Verhulst between 1665 Pieterpad. Stop for a drink or something to and 1669 by order of the young widow eat at the Blankehoeve (blankehoeve.nl), Anna van Ewsum. She herself was also the De Lanteern (delanteern.nl) or the immortalised in the sculpture, resting Hondsrug Natuurvriendenhuis on the beside her deceased husband. outskirts of the Noordlaarderbos. MIDWOLDE

62 63 groningen Rural idyll

STITSWERD STITSWERD Should anyone ever wish to shoot an ALSO WORTH English Miss Marple-styled detective series in Groningen, the village of Stitswerd SEEING would be the perfect backdrop. This charming and ancient artificial dwelling — hill is beautifully located in the bend of an old road between and Take in one beautiful house after . Idyllic is the word that springs to another at the Hoofdweg in Belling- mind, which you will appreciate once you wolde, where villas alternate with venture into one of the narrow streets. farmhouses. Don’t drive too far: you’ll Stitswerd has been praised for its beauty be in Germany before you know it. since the 19th century, and the travelling — teacher Jan Gerrit Rijkens referred to it Westeremden as ‘an English garden’. The village was This artificial dwelling hill is as pretty also highly popular among Groningen De as a picture. On top of it is a beautiful Ploeg artists. Planning a visit to Stitswerd? church and a medieval parsonage farm Drive or cycle via Bethlehem and Rottum rebuilt by artist Henk Helmantel. to the Helwerd artificial dwelling hill, where — in the 8th -century missionary Liudger Feerwerd cured bard Bernlef from blindness. True or With its pretty narrow streets, false? Whatever the answer, this artificial Feerwerd features an abundance of dwelling hill is a magical place anyway. greenery and a special church. This is almost village idyll overload. ONDERDENDAM — If you own a small boat or canoe, be sure Spijk to take it to Onderdendam (marenland.nl) It is as if someone has drawn a circle and explore this delightful town from the using a pair of compasses: the Spijk water. Even if you remain on land and travel artificial dwelling hill is both perfect by bike or on foot, with its Korenmolen and ancient. The church is right in corn mill and darling church the middle, surrounded by a moat. from 1840, this village is sure to appeal — to everyone. Another distinctive town Termunten landmark is the old cantonal court, The church alone is definitely which appears to be nonchalantly worth visiting the picturesque suspended above the Winsumerdiep. village of Termunten. Would you The corn mill has wonderful options for believe that this church used to meals and overnight accommodation. be much larger than today? Get those bicycle wheels turning and map — out a route that takes in the Stadsweg, the Smeerling Jaagpad and the Onderdendamsterweg, A few farms, some sturdy trees all old roads for you to explore, and enjoy and the charming Ruiten Aa every inch of the countryside. When you countryside: what more could you are ready for some well-deserved rest, take possibly want in this picture? the tow path along the Rasquerdermaar three kilometres north of the village; turn If you are up for even more exploring, left from Onderdendam following a sharp refer to the map in this magazine for bend in the Onderdendamsterweg. other lovely villages to check out.

64 65 groningen Rural idyll

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66 67 DANCE AROUND OLD MACHINES

After a thorough renovation with due respect for its characteristic look and feel, the former De Toekomst strawboard factory is reminiscent of the grain republic of the past. The retained steam boilers, millstones and drive wheels fill the building with unadulterated allure. It now functions as an event venue featuring foodtruck festivals, special fairs and the Gransnapolsky music festival. Full of atmosphere and a little bit rough around the edges; this suits Groningen to a T. W 55KM

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T R H E VILLAGES THE KOLONIËN VEEN THE THROUGH past inthishighly industriousarea. huts hadlongbecome athingofthe trade andagribusiness.By then,turf into thehomeofGroningen coastal century, the Veenkoloniën developed for fuel: peat or turf. Later on,inthe19 Middle Ages, peoplestarted cuttingit moorland lay thick inthisarea. Inthe to become fondofit.For centuries, high Veenkoloniën sometime, you are sure type of visitor. Butif you givethe Groningen tends to draw aparticular their first visit to the region. This partof when they seethe Veenkoloniën on immediatelyNot everyone fallsinlove extended. or shortened be easily can and long kilometres 55 about is route The heritage. industrial rich and farms infinite ribbonvillages with beautiful countryside, the through right cut that canals straight its with district), (peat Veenkoloniën the of history special the in takes expedition This visitgroningen.com/route-veenkolonien. your way, downloadtheroute on If you want to make sure you don’tlose th

HERE – veenkoloniaalmuseum.nl the particular style of . demonstrate all They museum. the from corner the around deerpark Hertenkamp the is as treasure, (green) another is Julianapark The Jugendstil. to School Amsterdam from styles, architectural various in villas beautiful the to see foot on environment the to explore Vrijman. time Take J.A. architect by government Classicism Dutch in designed School, Burger Hoogere Rijks former the in established is museum The area’s importance. to the that contributed everything andin shipbuilding; short, industry theinland rich agricultural shipping, canals, the extraction, peat of history the in yourself immerse and Museum Veenkoloniaal the to visit sure Be

IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII 1 VEENKOLONIAAL MUSEUM the French country estate garden. estate. Need arest from cycling? Visit built: the Welgelegen peat country of thesecitizenshadacountry house compagnie (company). In1655,one the nameof village: borger (citizen’s) decided to unite inacompany, hence granted permissionto cutthepeat. They on the Veenkoloniën. Ninecitizens were when Groningen city reinforced itsgrip of this village takes you back to 1647, impressive Oldambtfarms. The history is fringed with leafy trees andfeatures monotony. The ribbon village’s canal end without atrace ofboredom or the straight road for kilometres on In Borgercompagnie, you canfollow 2 BORGERCOMPAGNIE 71 VEENKOLONIAAL MUSEUM groningen A round trip through groningen

Margaretha Voormalige Turfcentrale, ALSO Hardenbergkerk, Aardappelmeelfabriek Veendam Wildervank De Toekomst, In 1901, a power station was ON THE On a warm summer’s day, Nieuwe Compagnie built in Veendam. And what Margaretha Hardenberg – wife Don’t be confused with the would one use as fuel for ROUTE of rich peat extractor Adriaan other Toekomst Strokarton­ such a plant? Exactly, peat! Wildervanck – fell asleep on fabriek (a strawboard factory) Today this is a hotbed for the moors. When she woke near . Instead, art and a few artists actually WILDERVANK MUSEUMSPOORLIJN STAR up, she saw a viper had coiled potatoes played the leading have their studios here. Both around her arm. She promised part in this Toekomst factory, the inside and outside of the to build a church if it didn’t where urban explorers drool Turfcentrale building exude 3 4 bite her. The viper didn’t bite, over the remnants of past character and inspiration. MUSEUMSPOORLIJN STAR THE PEKELA VILLAGES and the first stone was laid glory. Today, jumble sales are – turfcentraleveendam.nl Feel steam blow around your head Pekel is a Dutch word for salt, and on 24 September 1659. held in this raw and unpolished — as you depart. See the extensive Pekela simply refers to the Pekel A: — building where time has literally De Amshoff, countryside pass before your eyes from a brackish river in the bogland that Middenverlaat, and figuratively stopped. Kiel-Windeweer the historic railway carriage. This is STAR: for centuries was governed by the Wildervank — The city of Groningen must the longest museum railway line in the Dollard tides. In the 17th century, peat Peat cutting is simply Heemtuin, have considered that the peat Netherlands. It starts in extraction boomed in this area and impossible without locks, Muntendam district deserved a house of and ends in Veendam – or the other Groningen city purchased almost all because the water level must The Heemtuin may come as worship when, in 1755, it had way around. Experience old steam of the land around the Pekel A. Two be high enough for peat barges a welcome pause along the a church and parsonage built trains and diesel trains being operated centuries later, after all of the peat had to pass. The Middenverlaat in route. It also has amenities like in Kiel Windeweer. It has since on this railway line; a purely nostalgic been cut, the area started to flourish. Wildervank ensured this. You as the nature playground and been transformed into the experience. Board in Stadskanaal, Shipping, trade and agrarian industry will find the Verlaathuis by the the Mammoetpad: an exciting Amshoff restaurant which also Bareveld, Wildervank or Veendam. But reigned supreme. The Pekela ribbon is lock which was constructed route filled with obstacles provides overnight accommo- hold on: there’s still more to see at the testimony to this rich history, embodied in the 17th century. Formerly both on and beside the water. dation and options for con- Rijtuigloods of Station Stadskanaal, by the raw Strokartonfabriek Free & the lock master’s house, In spring and summer, the ferences. It’s a popular venue which features old locomotives and Co strawboard factory and the mighty today this is where you go Heemtuin explodes with wild for weddings, which will come all kinds of information about the De Volharding farm shed. Villa Elsa, for some excellent food. flowers, herbs and plants. as no surprise once you have railway line. And now that you are in which was built in 1902, shows that – brasseriewildervanck.nl. – heemtuinmuntendam.nl been here. – de-amshoff.nl Stadskanaal, you should really take the some people made a fortune here. opportunity to visit the Parkwijk near the Wouldn’t you just love to live here? HEEMTUIN TURFCENTRALE station. It features charming working- And we’d almost forget the captain’s TIP class houses from the 1930s, which were house and Houtzagerij Nooitgedacht Bring your bicycle rightfully declared as listed buildings. sawmill that are reminiscent of the once with you by train to –stadskanaalrail.nl flourishing shipping and wood industry. Sappemeer Oost or Veendam to start your journey. Alternatively, hire an e-scooter at eglider.nl in Groningen city to make your very own customised route.

72 73 HOME-GROWN AND HOMEMADE

53° 16’ 10.9” N, 6° 6° 34,7” E groningen 11 x regional products

— — — Pure tastes Spicy mustard Apple surplus Piloersemaborg Abrahams Mosterdmakerij Doggerland Cider Just fifteen minutes by car Such a tiny village, yet so Doggerland has found the 11 TIMES from the city of Groningen much activity: is full of perfect use for surplus apples: is the only remaining estate entrepreneurs and trades, the they turn them into delicious farm in the Netherlands, highlight of which is Abrahams traditional Groningen cider. REGIONAL Piloersemaborg. Enjoy the pure Mosterdmakerij. This is where Everyone is welcome to flavours top chef Dick Soek you find a restaurant, mustard donate apples and receive creates using fresh regional museum, mustard shop and some cider in return. If you PRODUCTS ingredients before spending mustard factory, all under don’t have any apples and the night on the premises. one single roof. Take a look would love to try it, simply buy – piloersema.nl in this factory where mustard Doggerland from the shop. Not all delicacies come from exotic places. Groningen residents are very is produced using traditional - doggerlandcider.com creative when it comes to what the sea and land provide: spicy mustard, methods. Afterwards, a lovely — bitter ale, salty glasswort, slightly acidic wine and sweet rolls made from bowl of mustard soup at the Culinary bicycle route regional grain and sugar. Try one of Groningen’s classics, such as the outdoor café will taste even Met Mest en Vork eierbal, the Groningen take on the Scotch egg that was created during better. – visitgroningen.com/ The ‘Met mest en Vork bicycle a harsh economic climate. Pure and devoid of unnecessary fuss. abrahams-mosterdmakerij route takes in all kinds of REGIONAL OP EWSUM — culinary hotspots over a MARKETS — — — From private gardens 40-kilometre course. Enjoy Fun with the children Straight from the sea Regional and sustainable Op Ewsum coffee at the Landgoed De Mikkelhorst to your plate Gasterij Natuurlijk Smeerling At Op Ewsum, soup is made Verhildersum country estate At the ecological De Sushi from the Wadden Enjoy a delicious lunch on using fresh vegetables from the or tea in the Theefabriek, Mikkelhorst care farm, children All this fish, oysters and a former Saxon farm in the private garden. Everything here and buy cheese, cookies and love the large playground and glasswort... Why wait for all beautiful village of Smeerling. is homemade and the kitchen mustard along the way. All pet goats in the petting zoo. these delicacies from the They also serve coffee, tea garden is filled with special and regionally produced of course. Feel free to pick some flowers, Waddenzee World Heritage site and cake. De Gasterij swears forgotten vegetable varieties. – visitgroningen.com/ too! If you think you are too old to be in the shops, if they are by sustainable regional Walking, eating, spending the gourmet-route for the slide, watch how wood right there for you to harvest? produce. From pastry to rolls, night: all of these and more are is split, or buy some delicious Set out on an excursion and everything is homemade. possible here. – opewsum.nl cheese in the farm shop. collect your very own meal. It - gasterij-natuurlijk-smeerling.nl SUSHI FROM - mikkelhorst.nl doesn’t come any fresher than — DOGGERLAND THE WADDEN — this. - wadvistochten.nl Takeaway Taste Groningen — Eierbal Regional markets Groningen gifts It resembles a giant type of cro- Buy your fruit, vegetables, Groningen Store (VVV) quette at first sight, but inside its dairy, meat, bread, eggs, Should you by any chance feel crispy coating is a layer of ragout ready-made delicacies and somewhat overwhelmed by and a whole egg. Whether you GRONINGEN much, much more at one of the all that Groningen has to offer, want to try all of the culinary STORE Groningen regional markets. no worries. The Groningen surprises Groningen presents, Everything is straight from Store in the Forum Groningen or simply feel like a late night the land and freshly prepared. is the starting point of your snack: the eierbal (Dutch Scotch Regional markets are held exploratory expedition of egg) is something you must try in Leek, Leens, Middelstum the city and province. In at least once in your life. Local and the city of Groningen. addition, this is where you buy connoisseurs go to Cafetaria – streekproductenmark­ten­ delicious regional products. Koning, Restaria Zuid or Friet van groningen.nl – groningenstore.nl Piet. – visitgroningen.com/eierbal

76 77 groningen producers In the countryside

REGIONAL PRODUCE; PRODUCERS IN THE COUNTRY­SIDE

78 79 groningen producers in the countryside

This area, perfect for connoisseurs, is a mere twenty-five dream about throwing up a new dyke in the salt marsh; not a FOOD PRODUCTION kilometres from the lively city of Groningen. Each and every high one, but just to create that little relief in the countryside road and artificial dwelling hill you see here has its very like there used to be. Just to make new land along with nature.’ BY THE WADDEN own and personal story, and the area becomes increasingly charming as you learn to read the scenery. ‘Humans have PRODUCTS FROM GRONINGEN SOIL followed the relief for centuries,’ says Hero. ‘And although Many arable farmers are world market producers and SEA DYKE it may seem flat, it actually is not, and you can feel this deliver their products in bulk, usually through corporations. when walking out over the farmlands. Everything here was Landgoud consciously refrains from this. ‘We trade once created by the sea. You will notice the location of an and sell most of our products ourselves, which is highly old dyke where the land undulates, if ever so slightly.’ unusual in Dutch farming. We focus on collaboration, Hero Havenga de Poel’s Landgoud family farm is clearly preferably regional of course.’ Landgoud delivers straw visible from the dyke. When asked, Hero indicates that LOVE FOR THE COUNTRYSIDE to the Waddenmax dairy farm a few kilometres away, and he does not really consider himself a farmer. ‘I rather Hero really loves the Groningen countryside, where each receives it back in the form of crop manure. Did you know think of myself as a food producer, or, better yet: a season has its very own special charm. In spring, when that, also thanks to Landgoud, the Marne Mosterd and victualler.’ The difference being that Landgoud process the land awakens from its winter sleep, the spelt sown in Abrahams Mosterdmakerij companies have recently started everything themselves, so they really are at the cradle of autumn starts a rapid growth spurt, leaving the land light making the real Groningen mustard again? It’s made using their products. From their currant wine to spelt pasta and green. Summer – the best time of the year – is the season mustard seed from Groningen soil, instead of seed from from honey to mustard, everything grown and produced of hard labour. Autumn is the proverbial evening of the abroad as you see with other famous mustard brands. here is organic, fair and with plenty of love for the land. day and the time to harvest. Winter symbolises night: a rest period for the land but also a busy time in the granary. ‘We dry and store our grain, which requires considerable attention. Everything that is not grain must be removed and the grain crates must be turned on a regular basis. It is also the time to deal with the first deliveries.’

Hero is not in the least hesitant to share his love for Groningen. ‘We have outlined a trail across our land to welcome everyone who would like to explore. Information boards provide informa­ tion about the area and the crops. A small hut is located near the old dyke for a break and to take in the view and the silence. This countryside really is an unforgettable sight.’

IN HARMONY WITH NATURE Originating from a time when people and nature were in much closer harmony, this land has evidently been used for farming for ages. ‘Nature has provided us with land and taken some of it away now and then,’ says Hero. Near the farm is another silent witness: a deep pool, which originated after the 1717 Christmas Flood, when dykes burst and the water reached as far as Groningen city.

Things are entirely different today, with the seawall at about a kilometre from the farm. High and stern-looking, it will certainly keep any wave at bay. The dyke stands for control instead of collaboration between humans and nature. ‘I sometimes

80 81 groningen producers In the countryside

PRODUCTS FROM THE COUNTRY- SIDE

Groningen features a large number of special producers based in the countryside, some with a special story; see below. Refer to the map for more tasty tips, from farm shops and regional markets to restaurants that use Groningen products.

1. Alambik distillery produces 4. Waddenvarkens is a Eau de Vie, Dutch gin, fresh small-scale pig farm where fruit liqueurs, and other animal-friendliness and exclusive drinks. Owner Zarko sustainability are considered of – originally from Serbia and paramount importance. Their now from Midwolda – is the free-range meat is available 7. The farmers and producers driving force behind it all. at the farm shop located just associated in the Coöperatie – alambik.nl north of Uithuizermeeden. de Graanrepubliek focus – waddenvarkens.nl on promoting the cultivation 2. The Waddenmax biodynamic and processing of grain. Pasta dairy farm owned by the 5. The Eemstuin near Uithui­ Nobile, for instance, produces Tilburg family produces cheese, zermeeden grows biodynamic exclusive pastas and baker butter, curd cheese, yoghurt vegetables. Their fresh seasonal Bakker Wiebrand makes and much more. Products are produce is sold in their shop delicious leaven bread. available in the Hornhuizen and other locations. – graanrepubliek.nl farm shop and other places. – eemstuin.nl – waddenmax.nl 8. TheLandleven organic Hero has his very own Landgoud Blanka wine produced using Landgoud products are available for sale 6. De Zelfmakerij regional farm farm produces farmhouse their home-grown white currants, and the Toscana ice-cream and can be sampled at various venues 3. Horaholm in Hornhuizen in produces a cheese, curd cheese, cream parlour in Groningen city sells ice cream made using their in Groningen. The Piloersemaborg grows winter carrots, potatoes, variety of regional products which and ice cream under the name juice. ‘It has a sweet taste with a fresh, sourish aftertaste,’ says restaurant in Den Ham and Onder de gluten-free oats, yellow are sold in their shop, along with of Westerwolds Goud. The Hero. And then there is the pasta made from spelt and emmer Linden in Aduard use the grain to bake mustard and much, much more. products by other local producers. Landwinkel in Onstwedde also wheat, mustard flower honey, ‘spelt risotto’ and flower ground their bread, and the Herberg Restaurant Buy their organic potatoes They recently took up distilling sells regional products from by the local miller. Hero usually delivers products to shops and Molenrij and Abrahams Mosterdmakerij and carrots at the farm. their own Genever, or gin. other producers in the area. restaurants using the company’s electric delivery bicycle. in Eenrum also use Landgoud products. – horaholm.nl - zelfmakerij.nl – westerwoldsgoud.nl Landgoud pastas, spelt risotto and SUNSET ON THE SALT MARSH Blanka wine are available at Fluitekruid So what places come highly recommended when visiting the in Winsum, the Groningen Store in Landgoud area? Hero is all but hesitant: the Dijksterweg into Groningen city and some other places. Producers in the 17. Het Geweide Hof Restaurants Regional markets Countryside the direction of Hornhuizen, and the salt marsh in particular. Landgoud does not run a farm shop. 18. Groentekwekerij Noordlaren 1. ‘t Ailand 1. Ommelander Markt ‘You really should go there during sunrise or sunset. Simply Go to landgoud.nl for an overview. 9. De Buurackers 19. Mulder Pot 2. Herberg Restaurant Molenrij 2. Streekmarkt Verhildersum step into some old boots or shoes and set out to take in the 10. Oudenbosch 20. De Keukentuin 3. Abraham’s Mosterdmakerij & Rest. 3. Streekmarkt Ewsum view, of the countryside with all its flora, and see it change 11. Korenmolen Joeswerd 21. Doornbosch 4. ’t Kleine Oestertje 4. Streekmarkt Nienoord by the minute. Look at the horizon, and the rising and falling 12. Kaasboerderij Kleidracht 22. Meinardi 5. Piloersemaborg water. Also note the grass, which is totally different from 13. Onstaheerd 23. Arkema 6. Herberg Onder de Linden the English rye-grass you see all around. And when you’re 14. Landgoud 24. Landwinkel Oldiek 7. Huiskamercafé Westerwijtwerd Bakeries standing on the dyke, be sure to look out over the sea, and 15. De Luingahof 25. Park van Pomona 8. Hermans Dijkstra 1. Bakkerij Peters see the islands of Schiermonnikoog and . Turn 16. Eikemaheert 9. Uit de Buurt 2. Bakkerij van Esch around and consider that this area once looked just like it.’ Opening hours of the shops and farm shops may vary, and regional markets are held periodically. For dates and opening hours, be sure to check their websites or go to visitgroningen.com.

82 83 groningen Proudly Produced in Groningen

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Look beyond what you see or venture out across the dyke, and you will find that there is just so much to explore in the city and province of Groningen. If you would like help in selecting the tips and tops, go to the VVV Groningen Store in the Forum Groningen; the starting — — — point for your expedition of Groningen. Dutch Harvest Hemp Tea is City Cups. Who would not love The Brouwerij Martinus This is where you find information grown on Groningen soil and has these cups with their distinctive brewery produces speciality about the city and environs, guided a mild, light, fresh and sweet taste elements of typical Groningen beers in a beautiful industrial tours, a visit to the Martinitoren, group with an exciting tingle. Discover buildings? The series of porcelain building at the Kostersgang. excursions and VVV gift vouchers. – or rediscover – the sustainable cups was designed in Groningen Take a tour and learn all about They also have fun, delicious and and healthy power of hemp! and features details of the Marti­ the process of brewing beer. sustainable products available, all from nitoren, Groninger Museum, the the hands of Groningen producers Korenbeurs and other buildings. and inventors. This is also a place for inspiration outside opening hours.

— Pack of cards. The world-famous pack of cards in a Groningen look, featuring – naturally – real Groningen icons, from the Martinitoren to local singer and poet Ede Staal and ancient artificial dwelling hill villages. You could almost show your cards right away!

— — — — Soap7 is a small soap factory in Groning is pure and fair honey Van Hulley creates beautiful and Moj Limonade is made from Haren that produces natural soaps directly obtained from Groningen special boxer shorts from textile 100% fruit, natural mineral water, according to traditional methods. bee-keepers. that have an entire – second – carbonic acid and a touch of cane Handmade from pure ingredients. life ahead of them. Made with sugar. Nothing more, nothing courage and love by trainees in less. Moj non-alcoholic drinks the sewing workshop. are pure, simple and delicious. NIEUWE MARKT 1 - WWW.GRONINGENSTORE.NL

84 85 groningen discover the borgen DISCOVER THE BORGEN

While the rest of the Netherlands has fortresses and castles, Groningen is the place where you find borgen – estate houses. They are scattered around the province and ready for you to explore. So get on your bike or in your car to check out these chateaux of the north. If you think you can explore all sixteen in a single day, think again. Simply FRAEYLEMABORG select a few to take in the splendour of the olden days.

FRAEYLEMABORG Over two hundred borgen and estate houses, homes of Groningen aristocracy, once dotted the province. These estate houses date from the 13th century, when they were built on FRAEYLEMABORG the lands belonging to rich farmers. Set up as places of refuge If you are coming to visit the or defence, over time they lost their strategic function and Fraeylemaborg, don’t simply enter the were converted into stately country houses with beautiful building, but instead walk to the far back of gardens. This is when nobility started living in borgen instead the garden, where you will see a bus. It’s one of farms. Outside were the stables and barns: the treasuries. of the estate’s follies: funny and distinctive buildings that do not serve any practical By the late 18th century, only a few borgen were left. Peerage had purpose. This country estate, with its experienced barely any new increase and gentleman farmers romantic English-styled garden, is a lovely had started buying the buildings and grounds up to obtain the place for a walk. With numerous little vistas, rights that came with them. The buildings themselves remained beautiful trees and hillocks, you can spot empty. Others were bought by non-noble Groningen regents. the odd part of the older Baroque garden. While the occasional borg found a new function as a country While the house itself originates from the seat, others were demolished or converted into farms. Middle Ages, its current design dates from 1781. The Louis XVI-style halls and white The last borg to be demolished was the Dijksterhuis near plasterwork you see were all the fashion Pieterburen (1903). By that time, the 16 remaining ones had in those days. The old coach house now been declared listed buildings. Fortunately they were not the functions as a museum shop with various buildings in the worst condition. Today, they are the showpieces exhibition spaces. Conclude your visit with of the province of Groningen. Many of them are open to the a drink and a bite to eat in the treasury. public, and some even provide overnight accommodation. The - fraeylemaborg.nl gardens and surrounding rural estates are wonderful places to visit. As soon as you enter, it feels as if the residents of old could return from a lovely outing any second.

86 87 groningen discover the borgen

MENKEMABORG NIENOORD So if you would like to know how Nienoord is really the outsider in this list. Groningen nobility lived and breathed This is not originally an estate house, but in the 17th and 18th century, be sure to instead a peat estate which was founded go to the Menkemaborg in . in 1525 by Wigbold van Ewsum. He used it Its interior has not been changed as a base to cultivate the surrounding peat at all since those days. Originally an moors. The house suffered great hardships estate house built in the 14th century, due to weather conditions, strong winds over time it developed into its current and war. In 1846 nobleman Ferdinand Baroque splendour. It features Folef van Inn- und Knyphausen set fire to beautiful gardens which have basically the upper floor – it’s uncertain if this was remained unchanged since the 18th deliberate. A few years later, the orangery century. The garden had more than and coach house met the same fate, and just an aesthetic function: after all, the it was rumoured that this too must have nobility had to eat as well. Behind the been the work of the mad squire. Since treasury – the former farm next to the 1958, the Nationaal Rijtuigmuseum has country house – is another kitchen been established in the country house. garden, and you’ll find various fruit The garden features the Schelpengrot: varieties in the orchard. Drinks and a cottage, the interior of which is en­ meals are served in the Restaurant tirely covered with a shell mosaic. The ’t Schathoes. In July, the rose tunnel country estate also includes a deerpark, flowers abundantly and fragrantly and a swimming pool and the Familiepark the maze is a lovely place to get lost in. Landgoed Nienoord. Perfect for children! - menkemaborg.nl MENKEMABORG BURCHT WEDDE - landgoednienoord.nl

BURCHT WEDDE – WEDDERBORG BORG VERHILDERSUM As you approach the Wedderborg, it A walk through the Baroque style is immediately obvious that this must garden of Landgoed Verhildersum takes have been a ‘real’ castle. It endured in various buildings, such as a coach the occasional war, and in the 15th and house, the treasury and a labourer’s 16th century had a circular wall with cottage. In spring, the garden transforms high defence towers. For centuries, into a beautiful sea of flowers. Go the Wedderborg served as the seat to the museum farm and see how for the Lords of Westerwolde. In 1619, Groningen aristocracy used to live in it came into the ownership of the city conjunction with the farmers and farm of Groningen, which in 1829 planned workers. Old crop varieties are grown to demolish it. Fortunately these plans on the Verhildersum fields. It’s just never came to pass, and notary Arnold one of the ways in which the estate Hendrik Koning bought and renovated house keeps attention for historical the castle. The Koning family owned varieties alive. A regional market is held it until 1955. Today it functions as on the country house grounds every special holiday accommodation for first Saturday of each month, where children and young people. Adults are the past and present meet. With its welcome to stay in one of two stylish beautiful 19th-century decoration, this heritage guest rooms. Enjoy a lovely estate is more than worth a visit. stroll in one of the beautiful gardens. - verhildersum.nl - burchtwedde.nl NIENOORD BORG VERHILDERSUM

88 89 groningen discover the borgen

THE OTHER BORGEN

Allersmaborg Allersmaweg 64, Ezinge – allersmaborg.nl — Breedenborg Breede 1, – www.breedenborg.nl — Coendersborg Oudeweg 15, Nuis – groningerlandschap.nl Ekenstein Alberdaweg 70, Appingedam – ekenstein.com — Ennemaborg Hoofdweg 96, Midwolda – groningerlandschap.nl — Borg Ewsum Oosterburen 1, Middelstum – groningerlandschap.nl — Iwema Steenhuis Het Pad 15, Niebert – groningerlandschap.nl Piloersemaborg Sietse Veldstraweg 25, Den Ham – piloersema.nl — Rensumaborg Rensumalaan 3, Uithuizermeeden — Rusthoven Rijksweg 39, Wirdum — Veenborg Welgelegen De Vosholen 60, Sappemeer – borgwelgelegen.nl

EWSUM

90 91 PIETERBUREN Zeehondencentrum WELKOM IN GRONINGEN, KOM LANGS & HOOR WELKOM IN MARTINIPLAZA WAT ZEEHONDEN VERTELLEN Je gelooft je oren niet! Wist je dat een zeehond kan praten? Tijdens je bezoek je de taal van de zeehond. Natuurlijk kun je ook écht THEATER CONGRES BEURS zeehonden(pups) zien en horen in het grootste zeehondenziekenhuis SPORT EVENT van Europa! Kom je langs? Zeehondencentrum Pieterburen is elke dag geopend! Koop je kaartje alvast #jegelooftjeorenniet! online en reserveer direct één van de WWW.MARTINIPLAZA.NL extra activiteiten zoals een rondleiding tickets verkrijgbaar vanaf € 6,- of een boottocht. Ontdek het zelf! www.zeehondencentrum.nl/koop-tickets

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