The Mississippi Valley Traveler Travel Guide Driftless Area Along the Upper Mississippi River from Hastings, Minnesota, to Lansing, Iowa by Dean Klinkenberg Other Books by the Mississippi Valley Traveler: Quad Cities Travel Guide Lansing to LeClaire Travel Guide Watch for more guides to Mississippi River towns by the Mississippi Valley Traveler! Get more information at: http://www.MississippiValleyTraveler.com © Copyright 2010 by Dean Klinkenberg All photographs by Dean Klinkenberg, except where otherwise credited. Mississippi Valley Traveler Driftless Area Travel Guide by Dean Klinkenberg CONTENTS Overview Map .................................................................... 4 Introduction ........................................................................ 6 Regional History ................................................................13 Great River Road Route Overview .....................................21 Hastings .............................................................................24 William and Mary LeDuc ...................................................26 Prairie Island Indian Community .......................................36 Eggleston ...........................................................................40 Red Wing ...........................................................................41 Red Wing's Difference Makers ..............................................45 Wacouta .............................................................................59 Frontenac Station ...............................................................61 Old Frontenac ....................................................................63 Lake City ...........................................................................71 Lake Pepin ..........................................................................76 Camp Lacupolis .................................................................82 Reads Landing....................................................................83 Wabasha .............................................................................86 Armistice Day Blizzard .......................................................89 Kellogg ...............................................................................99 Weaver ............................................................................. 103 What is a Coulee? ..............................................................104 Minneiska ........................................................................ 106 Putnam Gray and His Castle .............................................108 Minnesota City ................................................................ 110 Goodview ......................................................................... 114 Winona ............................................................................ 116 John Latsch .......................................................................119 Homer ............................................................................. 139 La Moille .......................................................................... 142 Dakota ............................................................................. 144 Life on the Frontier ...........................................................145 Dresbach .......................................................................... 148 La Crescent ...................................................................... 150 Minnesota's Johnny Appleseed ............................................153 Brownsville ...................................................................... 156 Boathouses ........................................................................159 Reno ................................................................................ 162 Lansing ............................................................................ 167 De Soto ............................................................................ 174 Wisconsin's Amish Community ..........................................178 Victory ............................................................................. 182 Genoa .............................................................................. 185 Stoddard........................................................................... 190 La Crosse ......................................................................... 194 Nathan Myrick .................................................................197 The Leona .........................................................................218 Rivertown Brothels ............................................................226 French Island .................................................................... 232 Onalaska .......................................................................... 235 Life in a Logging Camp .....................................................241 Holmen ............................................................................ 245 God's Country ...................................................................248 Brice Prairie ..................................................................... 251 Midway ............................................................................ 254 New Amsterdam .............................................................. 255 Trempealeau ..................................................................... 259 Centerville ....................................................................... 267 Marshland ........................................................................ 269 Bluff Siding ...................................................................... 271 Fountain City ................................................................... 272 Cochrane .......................................................................... 280 Kenny Salwey ....................................................................283 Buffalo City ...................................................................... 284 Alma ................................................................................ 291 The Gesell Family ..............................................................298 Nelson .............................................................................. 306 Pepin ................................................................................ 310 Stockholm ........................................................................ 319 Maiden Rock .................................................................... 328 Bay City ........................................................................... 333 Hager City ....................................................................... 337 Trenton ............................................................................ 339 Diamond Bluff ................................................................. 341 The Sea Wing Tragedy ........................................................343 Prescott ............................................................................ 345 Point Douglas .................................................................. 351 Regional Information ....................................................... 353 Index ................................................................................ 362 INTRODUCTION Welcome to the Driftless Area, 24,000 square miles of Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, and Illinois bypassed by Pleistocene-era glacial ice and drift. The Driftless Area is a wonderland of coulees, valleys, and hollows amidst the Great Plains. The Mississippi River cut a deep valley through the heart of the region. The golden limestone bluffs stand as sentinels watching over the river; wide swaths of water stretch across the valley; raptors gently ride the thermals along the bluffs, rising to greater and greater heights. The Mississippi River from Hastings to Lansing is rich in natural wonders and spectaular scenery. The Wisconsin side is populated mostly with small towns but also has the largest city, La Crosse, which, with its regional population of roughly 100,000, won’t be confused with Chicago or Minneapolis. The Min- nesota side has a four-lane highway and more develop- ment but also an abundance of public lands to explore. On both sides of the river, small villages snake along narrow plains, sandwiched between the river and tall bluffs. The Mississippi River from Hastings to Lansing is a rewarding stretch to explore, but its pleasures are subtle and unassuming. Stop at a farmers market and relish Introduction 9 the vivid colors and fresh flavors of seasonal tomatoes, squash, berries, and apples. Travel by houseboat and camp on an isolated island with fellow vacationers. Share the river with young idealists on homemade boats and bond over the experience of dodging colossal barges. Or share the River Road with travelers on Har- leys or in convertibles and bond over the experience of dodging an Amish buggy. Bike alongside a local farmer who is taking his John Deere to town for a little shopping. Devour a big burger or savor fine food while watching the river flow quietly by. Indulge in a slice of made-from-scratch pie and feel that stress melt away. Don’t Miss On the West Bank • LeDuc Historic Estate (page 29) • Little Log House Power Show (page 31) • Goodhue County History Center (page 47) • Arrowhead Bluffs Museum (page 91 • Minnesota Marine Art Museum (page 121) • Winona’s summer cultural festivals (page 128) On the East Bank • Maria Angelorum Chapel (page 208) • Trempealeau