LRE Issue 79

Landscape Paul Selman Eirini Saratsi Research Gareth Roberts Nancy Stedman Extra 79 Tobias Plieninger Christine Thuring March Eva Schwab 2017 Shachi Bahl Helen Hoyle Copy deadline for LRE 80 Peter Howard June 15th 2017 Bud Young most distinctive and historic townscapes of west Walking Scottish Pilgrimage Routes Scotland. From the pilgrim’s perspective, the Auld Kirk is the most significant stop. It is a place for By Paul Selman pleasant reflection yet also a landscape of dark his- In the past couple of issues, I wrote about the St Ninian’s Way tory: a gravestone recalls a mass hanging of Cove- in south-west Scotland where I now live. Several nanters whilst the interior boasts a mortsafe which long-distance paths are currently being developed secured the lids of coffins against potential body by the Scottish Pilgrim Routes Forum and I was cu- snatchers. rious to discover whether these truly had the potential to re-create landscapes of pilgrimage. With Continuing south through leafy suburbs and parks I mixed impressions from the first half, I resume the pass a mecca for pilgrims of a different kind – the path at Ayr, journeying southwards towards birthplace of Robbie Burns at Alloway. The cottage, Whithorn. museum, kirk and auld brig provide a very evoca- tive landscape which on another occasion could eas- Ayr – which Burns reminds us, “ne’er a toun sur- ily detain me a couple of hours. passes for honest men and bonnie lasses” – is a promising starting point. It possesses one of the Pressing on along the coastal path the landscape changes sharply from the industrialised and urban- 2 ised coast of north Ayrshire. This much wilder face is barely affected by the few, well maintained, caravan sites. Instead, the scene is dominated by the conical island of Ailsa Craig: recent- ly purchased as a bird sanctuary, it is mainly noted for its vari- ant of granite from which curling stones are famously made. Landscape Research Group is set up as a Company Limited Here, there is a fair sense of being on a pilgrim trail, not least by Guarantee known as ‘Landscape Research Group because there is a properly defined route with a sense of desti- Ltd’ (Company Registration No 1714386, Cardiff). The com- nation. It was also the path taken by medieval pilgrims, hug- ging the shore for want of a viable cross-country track. The pany’’s registered office is at: 1027A, Garrett Lane, London power and wildness of nature is present, and dangers await SW17 0LN. Landscape Research Group is also a Registered anyone who has not checked the tide tables carefully. I am also Charity (No287610) surprise by a remarkable outcrop of amygdales amidst the striking geology. Eventually I arrive at the picturesque village and harbour of This landscape is comparatively unknown and the pilgrim is rewarded by spectacular views across moorland and sea. Tak- ing the long descent from the crest my first brush with the out- skirts of Maybole is promising, but the impression soon fades. The town centre is sliced by the main road for Belfast ferry traffic. The long-awaited bypass could eventually enable it to recover its historic potential, but presently it is no more than a congested staging post. Just to the south, though, lies one of the trail’s principal jewels, Crossraguel Abbey. The pilgrim’s approach at this point is most unsatisfactory. There is no public transport and no scenic path, just the small mercy of a pavement aside the trunk road. This Cluniac abbey dates from the 13th century and is a remarkable ruin, whose surrounding landscape bespeaks time-depth. It is a superlative stopping place for the pilgrim but the trail is Dunure, where the inn provides one of the most attractive lodg- sadly let down by the lack of connection to a proper path net- ings along this trail. Had I planned the journey more precisely, work. I could have stopped the night here, but on this occasion must content myself with a memorable bar snack. In 1570 a visitor to After a few miles of tarmac the Turnberry Hotel hoves into Dunure’s gaunt castle was treated less hospitably. Then, the view. This Edwardian pile languished in faded grandeur before being taken over by a certain Donald Trump. I will say nothing about the gentleman other that he is a notable real estate entrepreneur who cer- tainly knows how to run a hotel. Long distance trails are known to make a posi- tive impact on local economies and Ninian’s trail might provide a sorely needed fillip to the small town of Girvan. Typical of several towns around the Clyde which once were thriving tour- ist destinations, it now languishes too far from Glasgow for day trips and too close for holi- days. The explorable harbour, fine seaward views and boat trips to Ailsa Craig cannot – at least for the moment – offset the depressed centre. Commendator of the surrounding monastic estate was impris- As the trail continues south along the Ayrshire coastal path I oned by the utterly egregious 4th Earl of Cassilis and had his feel that — scenic and under-used though this section is — feet roasted until he signed over the lands. there is relatively little here to instil a sense of pilgrimage. Af- ter a few miles we hit an arduous stretch of moorland which The route so far has been rocky but relatively flat. Now, the may be bliss for some walkers. I, however, rue the intransi- route strikes inland across the Carrick Hills towards Maybole. gence of Network Rail in not providing a halt at Glenluce Ab- 3 bey. The abbey is another of our ‘unmissables’ and sits right by ed. A lot could the Stranraer line which nowadays is in ever more desperate be said about the need of passenger custom since the ferry terminals moved to plurality of ap- Cairnryan. proaches, disci- plinary views and The abbey ruins provide a link to the Cistercian tradition; they experiences ex- also continue to remind us of the macabre past which impinges changed during on this trail. The pilgrim cannot help but reflect, not only on the the event. I am hope and light brought by Ninian, but also on the human dark- not going to re- ness that sometimes followed in his wake. I will leave the read- peat facts here as er to investigate! an overview of Onwards, the trail picks up a variety of paths and lanes in a the event has slightly unsatisfactory way and I admit to using my bus pass to been written by reach journey’s end at Whithorn. My excuse is that I must con- Val Kirby in the serve my energy to fully appreciate the wonders of this area. As last issue of LRE. a passenger I enjoy an elevated view of an open and quiet land- With this piece I scape with great time depth, where mysterious and probably would like to spiritually significant archaeological remains abound. reflect on what, Whithorn itself is a remarkable place where the lost landscape to my opinion, is even more striking than the visible one. Inscribed stones, the gave the event its ruins of a 12th century cathedral and other relics are the extant distinctive character; the contribution of a considerable number reminders that this was Britain’s cradle of Christianity. But of artists and their works. More than a third of the delegates at even the most cursory scan of historical accounts and the dis- this event were artists representing a wide range of arts such as coveries of recent archaeology reveal a prolific cultural evolu- photography, performance, music, mapping illustrations, writ- tion. The visitor is encouraged to continue to the quiet port of ing and poetry, as well as walking and experiential interpreta- Isle of Whithorn, with St Ninian’s Chapel and the coastal path tions of nature. Their presence gave the event a rather flamboy- to St Ninian’s Cave beyond. ant and stimulating atmosphere. It was indeed, rather refreshing and inspiring to be surrounded with so much creativity, enthu- For those with any sort of interest in this heritage, this remote siasm but also confidence about the artists’ role in articulating but surprisingly genteel place is marvel. One test of a pilgrim and championing the landscape. In this respect, the event was trail is whether arrival at the destination justifies the footslog. very successful and worked well as a showcase for many Whithorn passes this test comfortably. That said, the path has thought-provoking artworks. too many arduous or traffic-dominated stretches to compensate for the occasional landscape of delight. As I have said, a rail- My critique Nevertheless, there were lots of issues raised way halt at Glenluce would be a transformative addition and and I felt that many were left un-explored. would complement, rather than undermine, the trail’s value as a I consider - and this is my deliberately provocative opinion - footpath. that many questions were never properly addressed and that The idea of a ‘spiritual’ trail is doubtless of questionable value many others were never asked. to many people, but this route also has enormous economic and I was disappointed that the meeting didn’t delve deeper into heritage potential. This is a landscape of multiple values, both what we actually know about what difference art and culture quantifiable and intangible, and it tells many stories that are makes in landscape partnership projects. Neither did it discuss best discovered through intimate exploration at walking pace. how we are going to assess the impact of such artistic interven- As many have commented, pilgrimage is, as much as anything, tions.

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