A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER April 2017 Vol. 30, No. 4

dateline: trips and/or invite anglers back is one at the same level. Let’s hope for every- of the major things to look for in an one’s sake (anglers and outfitters) that FREE Fishing Trip Amazon outfitter, incidentally, because better water levels are on the way. In A Bad Luck/Good Luck water levels are extremely important the meantime, enjoy Pillsbury’s report. in the Amazon. That is particularly He enjoyed the whole experience and Report on the Amazon true in a year like this one that saw was already thinking of buying a return one Amazon agent/outfitter we know trip! Some guys have all the luck, right? Don Causey Note: Subscriber Steven As regards our FREE Fishing Program, Pillsbury was the lucky subscriber cho- which made this trip possible, see the sen to go on a free multi-species fishing box elsewhere for more information on trip in the Amazon recently, donated how you can get in on a FREE Fishing and outfitted by Acute , a major Trip yourself. Amazon operator we have never cov- spent a week at Acute Angling’s Rio ered in these pages. Actually, Pillsbury Travessão multi-species camp in is doubly lucky because, as this is writ- IBrazil this past January 31 through ten, Acute Angling has decided to invite February 9. My experience can be sum- him and the group he traveled with back marized as follows: great place, wrong next year free of charge because the week to be there. The camp was set up river was unexpectedly way too high for eight years ago by brothers Paul and good fishing. Owner Paul Reiss asked Garry Reiss of New Jersey and their us to delay Pillsbury’s report until he cancel more than 70 anglers because on-site Brazilian manager, Wellington had an opportunity to see the fishery as of extremely high water levels. Acute Melo. All three have decades of Ama- it should be, but he reconsidered after Angling’s Paul Reiss told me near press zon experience. What they have created reading the fair way Pillsbury described time the number of cancellations and on the Rio Travessão, in a protected what happened. The readiness to cancel make-goods he was issuing was almost Indian zone, is a wonderfully unique jungle fishing destination where anglers SUPPORT OUR CORPORATE SPONSORS can target not just peacock bass, but also payara (vampire fish), trairão (wolf fish), , several types of large , including the giant piraiba, and various other Amazon species. They do not currently market this camp as a destination, but they are look- IN THIS ISSUE ing to expand their client base in the fly fishing community. Hence their offer Wisconsin Special Report of a FREE trip to The Angling Report, This Muskie Guru Was Two Subscribers Weigh In which I was fortunate enough to be cho- among First to Use Fly On ATV-Assisted Trips Pages 5–7 Page 11 sen to go on. Prior to my departure, I contacted Cuba Controversy Paul, who briefed me on the fly fishing New Fishing Area Opened. Complaint and Rebuttal Plus, Other Developments on a Float Trip in opportunities. He cautioned that fly fish- Pages 7–8 Pages 11–12 ing would not be productive in all situa- tions and that conventional tackle would Guatemala be a must for some species. Acute An- Want to Catch a Marlin? A Call to Action on Note This ‘Marlin Guarantee Florida Bay, Everglades gling has a website devoted to various Pages 8–9 Pages 12–14 kinds of tackle (www.tackle-box.net), THE ANGLING REPORT and he advised me go there and buy a anglers are at the camp, and the rooms Rio Travessão Lure Package (http:// have outlets and adapters for charging tackle-box.net/index.php?id_product=5 electronics. There is no Internet access 22&controller=product). It would have and cell phones do not work, although everything I needed, he said, indicat- satellite phones do. The camp staff has ing conventional rods and reels would separate quarters, and the kitchen is lo- be available at no charge at the camp. cated under the rooms. I also purchased some flies on the site I found all of this infrastructure THE ANGLING REPORT so I could tie some replicas of my own quite remarkable considering the chal- GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR before I left. That done, I contacted the lenges in reaching the camp. Called Steve Walburn Acute Angling travel specialist, Maria the Rio Travessão Camp, it is located Alvarez, who handled all my travel ar- on an island in the middle of the river EDITOR rangements quickly and efficiently. I about 300 miles northeast of Manaus Don Causey already had a Brazilian visa, which an- on the Shield, in the extreme CONTRIBUTING EDITOR glers are required to obtain themselves. upper-right corner of Amazonas State. Jed Lyons My itinerary called for a quick Navigation of the river is blocked an overnight in Manaus, followed by trans- hour downstream from the camp by rap- COPY EDITOR port to the camp the next morning by ids passable only at the highest water. Gary Hamel floatplane. There was a strict 33-pound The rapids also mark the farthest point LAYOUT & PRODUCTION combined baggage limit on the flight, on the river that nonindigenous people Ben F. Badger Jr. by the way. I was advised that laun- may travel. This prohibition seems to be dry service at the camp means only a enforced and working. Acute Angling ILLUSTRATIONS minimum of clothing is needed. Excess has an exclusive government-sanctioned Gordon Allen gear can be left at the Tropical Hotel in agreement with the Ishkaryana Indians Manaus. to access the river above this point, and ADVERTISING DIRECTOR On arrival at the camp, I was sur- they are the only ones fishing it. We Michael Floyd prised to find more amenities than I never saw another boat, another person, 706-823-3739 (Fax) 706-724-3873 [email protected] had expected in such a remote jungle a net or a piece of trash the entire time setting. Think anacondas and monkeys. we were on-site. Pristine, the almost Subscription Inquiries: Two years ago the camp was converted unfished river extends for 200 miles (Orders, address changes, problems) 800-283-9471 from tents to raised, two-person wooden above the camp, supporting only the oc- www.theanglingreport.com rooms. They are about eight feet above casional Indian village. The camp is so Email: [email protected] ground to withstand the seasonal floods. remote that government teams seeking A Publication of MCC Magazines, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, The hardwood used was harvested and uncontacted tribes have used it as a base LLC 735 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901 hand-milled by local Indians using of operations. chainsaws. Each unit has two beds with Logistics for the camp are neces- Donna Kessler, President camp mattresses, a shower, toilet, fan, sarily difficult. The floatplane brings in Patty Tiberg, Vice President and small air conditioner. The camp has a small amount of fresh food with each Scott Ferguson, Director of Circulation a capacity of eight anglers. Soap, tow- wave of new anglers. Bulk supplies Donald Horton, Director of Manufacturing els, pillows, and a blanket are standard. have to be sent by boat to the lower Kris Miller, Director of Production A generator provides electricity when Indian village where they are portaged Morris Communications Company, LLC William S. Morris III, Chairman William S. Morris IV, President & CEO ©2017 by MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. The Honor Roll Subscribers Angling Report (ISSN 01045-3539) is published monthly by MCC Magazines, LLC, 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901. „„ The Angling Report encourages also get special consideration for Subscriptions are $49 for one year, $87 for two years. and add $20 per year (U.S. funds only). Outside North subscribers to file reports on great FREE trips. If you have been on America add $40 per year (U.S. funds only). Periodicals post- age paid at Augusta, GA and additional mailing offices. POST- places to fish and important news an interesting trip recently, send a MASTER: Send address corrections to The Angling Report, developments that help the rest of letter-length report to see if you can PO Box 433237, Palm Coast, FL 32143-9616. Contributions in the form of manuscripts or photographs will us decide where to go—or not to get on our subscriber Honor Roll. be gladly considered for publication. 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April 2017 -2- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT around the rapids. Indians from the up- to accommodate eight people. Most wt. with a Rio Outbound Tropical Short per village then transport the supplies food is laid out and covered for self- floating line to cast at shoreline jungle to the camp. This is a major source of service. Typically, breakfast options pockets and around structure for pea- employment for the villages and cre- included fried plantains, corn fritters, cock bass. There were none to be had ates a symbiotic relationship with Acute French toast, hard-boiled eggs, empa- on the first day by us or the other group Angling. nadas, fruit, boxed juices, and coffee. of two anglers. Day two went much the The guides here, not surprisingly, Eggs cooked to order were also avail- same, and I eventually decided to save are local Indians. They are skilled at able. Supplies to make your own lunch the fly rod for when we located some boat handling, and they know the river were laid out each morning. Ham and fish. I did hook one small peacock on a and how it fishes very well. Some have cheese with white bread and prepack- lead head jig using the spinning rod. It been with Acute Angling for many aged cookies were invariably offered. was the only peacock caught. years. They speak Portuguese, but little For the sake of variety, I started supple- The high water made the river English. They are given instructions menting my lunches with whatever uniform in appearance, making it very each morning by the camp manager, breakfast foods were still available. difficult to read the water. Visibility was Wellington, who speaks good English. Return time in the evening was only about six inches with all the silt the The guides do not rotate between an- generally between 6 and 6:30. Appe- water was carrying. It was impossible to glers. On the water, communication is estimate depth, but there seemed to be limited to very basic words such as the no shallow water. The premature flood- names of the fish being targeted. This ing of the forest had pulled the peacocks helped me choose the right rod and fly out of the river and into the jungle or or lure to use at each stop. To be sure of up inaccessible creeks. It was decided my choices, I would hold up my choice that our best option was to travel three for my guide to see and wait for his hours upriver to a tent camp where the thumbs-up or down signal. Most days, water might be lower. We did that on we were on the water 10 to 12 hours. day three, and, on arrival, we found the The open boats in use here are water lapping at the tent doors. about 18 feet long and made of welded Undaunted, we fished hard and in aluminum. They are specially designed two days we managed to boat a good with a curved V-shaped nose and a flat tizers such as hard salami, olives, and number of large black piranha, one bottom to handle the variable river con- chicken wings were waiting for us each payara, and several , the ditions. They are fitted with short-shaft, day, along with water, beer, soda, hard largest weighing about 50 pounds. lightweight 15 HP outboards, which are jungle juice, and bottled alcohol. Wine Whenever we found fish I broke out generally in good operating condition. was available on request. Dinner usu- the fly rod to experiment with flies and They struggled, though, in the high, fast ally started with a soup and rice. The retrieves, but none proved successful. I water conditions that prevailed during main courses that followed, such as think water clarity was the main prob- my trip. The bow has a casting deck, chicken, barbecued meats, pasta, meat lem. On the spinning rod large Rat-L- although the size varied between boats. lasagna, fish, and beef with vegetables, Traps full of ball bearings pulled fast Plastic chairs are attached to the fixed were all well prepared and tasty. There and deep were most effective. I couldn’t cross benches. The boats easily accom- was always enough food to have sec- begin to match this kind of action on modated me fly fishing up front and ond or even third helpings, and most the fly. The catfish our group caught another angler spin casting from the did. Dessert would be something small were all taken on heavy rod used to toss middle. We also tried it with two people and sweet like fruit in condensed milk a two-ounce lead weight and cut bait. fly fishing and it worked without much or some type of pudding. I heard no Most of the catfish holes fished were difficulty. The guides maintain the boats complaints about the food. After dinner, very deep and held submerged obstruc- well and make sure they are clean and time was spent on the deck drinking and tions. There was just no way to effec- ready for use each morning. Equipment telling fish stories. tively fish those kinds of holes with a fly can be left on the boat for the week. On this trip, unfortunately, most of rod, although I came prepared with a 10 The food was simply excellent. the stories were about the lack of fish. wt. and 450-grain tropical sink-tip line. How this was accomplished in a tiny The water was high when we arrived Further, I was told that only two types outdoor cooking area with only over- and rose daily. As a single, I was paired of catfish would take a fly/lure, one of head protection I can’t explain. Break- with another angler using conventional which was a nocturnal feeder. fast was served from about 6:15 to 7 gear. An accurate spin caster, he also Our overnight at the tent camp AM. Times are not strict. All food is had some fly fishing experience. We was Spartan. We had a table and chairs served on the dining deck near the wa- settled into a good routine, me using under a tarp and the guides cooked ter. There is a table there large enough my St. Croix Legend Elite Saltwater 8 chicken and a catfish over a campfire.

April 2017 -3- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT The tents were large and had two foam to fish two days with him as the camp better conditions we could have taken sleeping pads. We had been instructed was being closed down for the season. on bread flies and grasshoppers. to bring our pillows from the lower The first day we stayed close to Highlights of the second day were a camp. There were no other luxuries. We camp to fish pacu on 6 wt. fly rods. We wolf fish and a large redtail catfish. had drinks from the boat coolers and did this with a small hook and a wild Wellington, passionate about the camp were fortunate to have a good group berry that was similar to a radish in and the fishing, described how the river of anglers, which made for an interest- color and density. The berry floated at should have looked at that time. I saw ing evening. Our comfort was vastly that my experience could/should have increased by the fact that there were no been very different. To start with, the biting insects at either camp. I took dox- river would have been much smaller and ycycline as an antimalarial, but I never channelized. The water would not have had to use my OFF spray. It would reached the jungle, ending instead on probably have been ineffective on the rocky banks. The predatory fish would tarantulas anyway. In the morning there have been hiding in ambush around was no provision for breakfast. How- structure, not hugging the shore or in ever, the container of ham, cheese and holes. Peacocks, payaras and trairãos, white bread eventually made an appear- all of which have been caught on the ance to be used as breakfast and lunch. fly there, would have been easier to We returned to the main camp at find and cast to. Anglers would have the end of the fourth day. Wellington been able to get out of the boat to sight was there and to his credit he immedi- fish on foot. The trip to the upper tent ately apologized for the water being at first and then started a slow sink. Typi- camp would have been an option, not a April levels. He was most concerned cally, one of these berries would stay necessity. In short, it would have been that conditions had given us a poor im- on through multiple false casts. The tip as advertised, and I think, outstanding pression of what the area really had to of our floating lines served as a strike fishing. offer. The other anglers elected to leave indicator. We caught pacu like this both I learned more fishing with Wel- early, and he arranged a fly-out for the days. Water clarity made dry flies inef- lington in two days than I would have next day. At Wellington’s offer, I stayed fective, but I have no doubt that with fishing with just the Indian guide for a

Want to Go Fishing Free? All about Our Free Fishing Program „„ The Angling Report has always Report subscribers who convince us each month, and access to periodic e- valued feedback from its subscribers. that they are capable of writing use- mail bulletins describing FREE fishing And the reasons are clear. For one ful and accurate reports about their opportunities. These bulletins invite thing, Angling Report subscribers are experience. More than 100 subscribers Online Extra subscribers to tell us why some of the world’s most experienced have been invited on FREE fishing they should be selected to go on FREE fishermen. Hence, their judgments trips here in the United States and to fishing trips. We always give the nod about fishing destinations are broad- foreign destinations such as , to the most experienced subscribers based and sound. And our subscrib- Christmas Island, Brazil, and Mexico. with the most relevant experience. No ers’ insights are refreshingly candid. The total value of all that travel is in favoritism of any sort is shown. Sound That’s because they are written from a the many hundreds of thousands of like fun? Well, what are you waiting point of view that no other publication dollars. And the good news is that for? Sign up for Online Extra right embodies, namely, the paying client’s more outfitters are offering us FREE now and get on the list of subscribers point of view. You can see that point trips in return for reviews. invited to go fishing for free. The easi- of view in the report this month by If you want to get in on this op- est way to sign up is by going to our Steven Pillsbury on his FREE fishing portunity, all you have to do is upgrade website, www.anglingreport.com, and trip to the Rio Travessão in the Brazil- your subscription to Online Extra. The clicking on “Upgrade to Online Extra.” ian Amazon. cost is only $2 a month for a service Just be sure you sign up with an e-mail So here’s the deal. We encourage that includes unlimited access to our address that you check often and be lodge owners, guides, and others to custom-searchable, 5,000-page data- sure to add onlineExtrareply@anglin- offer us FREE visits to their facilities base of subscriber reports and previ- greport.com to your address book to with the understanding that we will ously published articles, early-bird ensure our bulletins get through. En- turn these invitations over to Angling electronic delivery of your newsletter joy!—Don Causey, editor.

April 2017 -4- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT month. I pointed this out as a weakness been to allow the anglers to cancel Don Causey Note: There is something and suggested that the guides be taught while still comfortably at home and to very special about catching a muskie more fishing English and instructed on reschedule for another, more auspicious on the fly, and subscriber Dod Fraser boat positioning for fly fishing. I also time. In this unusual case, they were captures it well in this report of fishing suggested the guides be given the op- already winging their way to Manaus with Bill Sherer, one of the pioneers of portunity to try fly fishing themselves when the waters began to rise in ear- muskie fly fishing. We are putting Fraser to have a better understanding of it. nest. So, since everyone was already in on our Subscriber Honor Roll for taking Detailed fly fishing notes kept on-site Brazil, we went forward to the lodge the time to file the report. His Honor would have helped too. These are small in the hope that things might improve. Roll fishing cap is already in the mail. changes that could help fly anglers who Unfortunately, after several days, water Thanks, Dod! are unfamiliar with the species available levels just got higher. So, in consulta- ast fall my fishing buddies, and who need some guidance. I would tion with the anglers and at their re- Parker and Nick, joined me for also suggest that fly anglers do bring quest, we brought back the floatplane Lour fifth annual muskie hunt some conventional tackle to take advan- and flew everyone but your subscriber in the north woods of Wisconsin. We tage of all the fishing opportunities. The back to civilization. We’re glad Steve stayed at a family cabin and fished with catfish should not be missed. was able to enjoy the rest of his trip but Bill Sherer of the We Tie It Fly Shop in I was able to speak with Wellington also very disappointed that he did not Boulder Junction (https://wetieit.com/). at length as we traveled back to Manaus experience our amazingly varied fishery Sherer was among the first to start fish- by boat, portaged around rapids, over- in its normal, placid, and lovely condi- ing for muskies on the fly over 30 years nighted at an Indian village, got on yet tion. We want him, and all our anglers, ago, and he remains a go-to guide for another boat, and finally arrived after to have an opportunity to enjoy the true these elusive fish. a long car ride. That was an interest- Muskies are the apex predator in ing experience few outsiders will get the river systems and lakes they inhabit. to have. It also showed how far Acute They are known for their aggressive and Angling will go to make sure every violent takes. Clocked at more than 70 client has the best trip possible, no mat- mph, they are one of the fastest known ter the conditions. They are excellent freshwater species. Their speed is com- hosts, and I enjoyed my time with them. bined with size. In northern Wisconsin, I would like to go back to the multi- 30-inch fish are routine, 40-inch fish are species camp again. I recommend it to common, and trophy 50-inch fish are other fly fishers as a unique place with always possible. They lie in wait under different fishing and more varied spe- logs, in weed beds, or beneath undercut cies than Agua Boa or Tsimane. Clearly, banks where they viciously attack prey. however, this trip isn’t for everyone. While rowing down a placid river, a The traveling can be hard, the spiders novice fisherman asked Sherer how he big, and the tent camp mattresses thin. experience here, so we have invited would know when a muskie took his On the other hand, if you’re up for an him to return at no charge, along with fly. Bill replied, “You will know; it will adventure, I think this trip is a good bet. the rest of the group. It is our policy to be like someone threw a bath tub in the Postscript: The cost of this inclusive, deliver on the expectations we create. water.” seven-night/six-day fishing trip is cur- If we cannot do so, even due to condi- Muskies have bony mouths filled rently pegged at $5,450 per person/ tions beyond our control, we believe with razor-sharp teeth. A quick, hard double occupancy. The season is rough- that we must, in good conscience, make strip-set is required to set the hook. Lift ly November through February. Acute good on our responsibility to deliver the or sweep the rod and you have lost a Angling can be reached at 866-832 experience that a client expects and is muskie. Not to worry, though: you can 2987. Web: www.AcuteAngling.com. entitled to. I’m confident that Steve will strike a muskie hard without fear of Here is what Acute Angling president be able to focus on the amazing variety breaking him off because you usually Paul Reiss had to say about the bad wa- of true river monsters in this fishery in fish for muskies with a wire leader at- ter levels: “When nature chooses to hit his next report.” tached to 40-pound test line. After the us with a low blow by delivering sud- hook set, the fight of a large muskie is den, unseasonable rains, we are forced dateline: WISCONSIN usually not very dramatic, as they are at to react quickly and in the best manner the top of the food chain and they fear available to us at the time. In this case, Honor Roll Report nothing. This means they do not have a we were caught by surprise by rapidly This Muskie Guru Was flight instinct. Typically, they put their rising waters. Our normal policy, had head down and shake, or they swim for we had more time to react, would have Among First to Use Fly cover. Smaller muskies, to be sure, can

April 2017 -5- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT put up dramatic fights, replete with have what I call deep muskies that one- to two-hour drive from Boul- jumps and runs. So, don’t be disap- will not take a fly. As for the fall der Junction. As for local lodging, I pointed when you hook a 35-incher. season, that is the best time to catch am fortunate to have a family cabin He may give you your best fight. a trophy fish, especially in the rivers. nearby. Places I suggest you check Casting for these grizzlies of the That’s because, as the weather cools, out include the Boulder Junction Mo- north is remarkably technical. The the smaller fish move from the rivers tor Lodge in Boulder Junction; the rod of choice is a 9 wt., although 10 to the lakes and begin to settle into Red Crown Lodge in Woodruff (the wts. are often used. You need a rod winter habitat. The larger fish feed on former Amoco Oil corporate retreat); that size not so much to control the into November before following the and The Beacons or The Pointe in Mi- fish as to turn over the fly and the little fellows into winter habitat. Fall nocqua. As for food, this area of Wis- requisite intermediate or sink-tip line. is the season of fewer, bigger fish. consin is known for its supper clubs Sherer ties his own flies, and they Just be aware that early summer that offer stick-to-the-ribs comfort range in size from four inches to ten and fall can bring some unpleasant food and a welcoming atmosphere inches. Delicate presentation and long weather. By that I mean cold and that are perfect after a long day of casts are not required, but accuracy rainy weather. That is not all bad by fishing. Notable clubs to check out is. When Sherer tells you to put the any means, however, because muskies are The Guides Inn in Boulder Junc- fly next to a log, he means right next like overcast days. In time, one learns tion and Marty’s in Woodruff. If you to the log, not one foot from the log. to look forward to an unfavorable are provisioning yourself, Trigs gro- Often, a hard splash when your fly weather forecast. In the fall, a lot of cery store in Minocqua is the place to hits the water triggers an explosive anglers in Wisconsin fish in waders to go. Attached is a first-rate wine store: strike. What you have to target are stay dry and warm; midsummer, you ask for Denis who runs the place. He ambush points: logs, weed beds, cut can direct you to just what you want. banks. Being able to cast accurately Bill Sherer can be found most under low-hanging branches is very days at the We Tie It Fly Shop. When helpful. he is on the river, his wife, Dawn, A typical day of muskie fishing answers the phone. He charges $550 consists of one blind cast after anoth- a day double, $400 single. When er. Fish a few days and you will come fishing with Bill, you will need a car to appreciate why muskies are known suitable for back roads, as you will as “the fish of a thousand casts.” need to shuttle his car and trailer to Importantly, muskies are known to the take-out. Be sure to stop at his follow flies right to the edge of the shop sometime during your stay in boat before striking, so each cast be- Boulder Junction. His inventory of gins with all of your line stripped in. fly-tying material is impressive. If That means you need to make one or can fish in shorts many days. Bill is booked, he may be able to more false casts to get line back out. Muskies are found well north recommend a local guide. Bill guides You can rarely water-haul when you in Canada, south to Georgia, and from a pontoon raft he has retrofitted are fishing for muskies. Being able to east to New York State. Northcentral for fly fishing. He can take two fish- cast efficiently—that is, without re- Wisconsin, however, is the prime ermen at a time. peated false casts—is key to keeping spot. More record fish have come An advantage of the Boulder your shoulder in shape. from Wisconsin waters than any Junction area that I should mention The muskie season in Wisconsin other place, and Boulder Junction is is the chance it offers to target spe- begins Memorial Day weekend and the “Muskie Capital of the World,” cies other than muskies. In the sum- can be divided into three phases. In according to the Chamber of Com- mer here, through about mid-August, the early season, muskies move into merce. They have painted a large pro- there is good smallmouth bass fish- the lakes around shallow weed beds. pane storage tank on the edge of town ing. They live in the same rivers They have just finished spawning at to resemble a muskie. muskies do, but one usually casts that point and are hungry. One can It is not hard to get to Boulder poppers for them with an 8 wt. These sometimes sight-cast for them early Junction. You can drive there from are fun fish. It’s not unusual, while in the year. Moving toward midsum- Minneapolis or Chicago in about five you are fishing for muskies, to be mer, the action shifts to bars and hours or so. If you are flying in from surprised by a smallmouth. I caught shallows of lakes and to local rivers. outside the region, plan on connecting a 22-inch, seven-plus-pound small- Muskies were originally river fish, in Minneapolis or Chicago to Rhine- mouth last fall. There is also good and fishing for them there helps you lander or Central Wisconsin airports. trout fishing in the Upper Peninsula avoid spin casters. Also, rivers don’t Both of these airports are about a of Michigan. Bill can take you on

April 2017 -6- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT streams an hour or two away. Casting boat reflects my learning curve. I was by our successes. Each year we have a 4 wt. to brook trout can be a wel- a novice fisherman when I started brought 40-inch fish to the boat. One come break from muskie hunting. with Bill and he has been an excellent year, we caught a monster 51-inch Many muskie fishermen keep a instructor. A former FFF-certified fly- fish that weighed 36 pounds. We box score to track their trips: number casting instructor, he patiently taught have a great picture of the fish draped of follows, number of takes, and num- me to cast and fish for muskies. across the fisherman’s arms leaving ber to the boat. After five fall trips, Bill appreciates the enthusiasm streaks of slime on his jacket. He my aggregate box score is 47-23-13. of our group for these special fish. claims to have not washed the jacket The poor percentage of takes to the His enthusiasm has been reinforced since. Enjoy!—Dod Fraser.

Briefly Noted Things to Do . . . Places to Go . . . New Developments

„„ If you are eyeing a first-ever, or If you have passed through Havana (http://flyfishingtherun.com); Cuba return visit to Cuba this year, be aware recently, we’d love to hear what your Welcome (http://www.cubawelcome. that a lot of new things are going on experience was like. We will treat com); and Mayo Oldiri (http://www. there. One of the most interesting and your contact as confidential or on the mayoldirifishing.com). I’ll have more important is the expansion of air service record. Please specify which you pre- to say about that latter firm in a mo- to the island nation, which means you fer. Write: doncausey@anglingreport. ment. can now access some of the most desir- com. By suggesting you do some price able fishing in Cuba by flying directly Another interesting wrinkle in comparison before buying, I’m not to a regional city, bypassing Havana Cuba fishing travel is the pricing suggesting that agents are marking entirely. Yes, Havana is interesting, and situation. Some of the more expensive anything up unfairly. I’m suggesting the chance to experience it is an impor- fishing trips in the world are now be- merely that prices are very fluid right tant reason many anglers want to go to ing conducted in Cuba, some of them now and as subject to supply/demand Cuba. But don’t be fooled: the city is aboard motherships, which do not bulges as airline ticket prices. At least full of tourists these days as thousands two agents whose websites we visited of new travelers pour into the streets as this was written were not indicat- from cruise ships and swarm into José ing Cuba trip prices at all, counseling Martí International Airport. There is a browsers to call for details. That is critical shortage of hotel space. Price something we have not ever seen be- gouging is rife, even at once-cheap fore on fishing websites. paladares, or privately owned restau- As regards the above-mentioned rants, we hear. As for hotel space, if you outfitting company, Mayo Oldiri, it book a trip that involves an overnight in has been involved in Cuba since 2006 Havana, be absolutely sure your agent catering mostly to European clients at or outfitter has confirmed you actually an area on the north coast. It lost that have a room waiting for you. The last- area to another company a while back minute cost of a hotel room in Havana and has now developed a very inter- (if you can find one) is approaching esting mothership and hotel-based New York City levels. program on the southern side of the To be sure, that does not mean command super-high prices in other country. The hotel part of the program anyone is having a bad time in Ha- parts of the world. Clearly, a seller’s is based on the southern coast of Isla vana. It’s still one of the most inter- market in fishing trips has developed de la Juventud, and the mothership esting places in the world to visit. Be in Cuba. When a lot of people want program is based in the Cayos de San sure you see the Revolution Museum to buy the same limited commodity, Felipe, in the open ocean west of the and the Museum of Modern Art, if that’s what happens. The pricing situ- Isla de la Juventud. The mothership you go there. Stroll El Malecón. Visit ation is so fluid it is definitely worth leaves from the Town of La Coloma the famous hotels and shows. Mar- your time to click around the Internet about 125 miles southwest of Havana. vel at the colonial architecture and a bit before committing to any given Importantly, mothership clients can mourn the crumbling condition of a offer. Price the agency offers against depart for La Coloma and board the lot of it. Get your picture taken with those posted on outfitter websites mothership the same day they arrive the bronze statue of Hemingway at such as: Avalon (http://cubanfishing- in Cuba, avoiding the cost and logisti- El Floridita bar. Drink a mojito there. centers.com/); Fly Fishing the Run cal hassles of overnighting in Havana.

April 2017 -7- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT Hotel clients do have to overnight in formation as soon as we can get our the sporting magazines. But here we Havana. hands on it. are in 2017, and we are preparing We are not about to say great to repeat the offer for the third year. things about the fishing at these „„ Catching a marlin on the fly is one Why? Because it achieved our goal venues because we do not have any of those bucket-list experiences sev- of getting the word out about the phe- firsthand experience. If you have eral subscribers have mentioned to us nomenal number of marlin we have firsthand experience, please weigh in. in e-mails and in subscriber reports. seasonally in Guatemala. Everyone A place on our Subscriber Honor Roll The fascination with doing that is not knows we have huge numbers of sail- is open to the first subscriber to file hard to understand, as marlin are huge fish, but not marlin. The second rea- a detailed report. Write: doncausey@ and powerful. Just getting one to come son we are repeating the offer is be- anglingreport.com. up on a teaser is hard. Getting in posi- cause, in two years, we have only lost In the meantime, I am comfort- tion to fly cast to one is harder. Actu- one bet, and that was to a group that able crawling out on a limb and ally catching one on the long rod is just did not fish for marlin the entire time saying these two fisheries could be plain amazing. they were with us. We hadn’t speci- terrific. Cayos de San Felipe, on the With all that in mind, a “marlin fied that as a term of the guarantee, Google map of Cuba, looks a lot like guarantee” we just heard about may so we erred on the side of caution and the islands that make up Jardines de start a stampede. The guarantee has honored the agreement even though la Reina Archipelago, and Oldiri says been extended by a company called we probably did not have to do that.” they are just as unspoiled and have Pacific Fins in Guatemala (http:// For the record, here is how Pa- been just as protected. As for Isla de pacificfins.com.gt/). No, they are not cific Fins words the guarantee: “If la Juventud, the Avalon fishery there, a fly-only outfitter, but they do make you want marlin, consider visiting on the other side of the island, was us in the months of August, Septem- off the charts in the early days. It is ber, or October. What do you have the only place I have ever—and I do to lose? We guarantee it. Here is mean ever—caught three tarpon over our guarantee: If you book our most 130 pounds in a single day. Avalon, popular package (three days fishing, by the way, is no longer operating four nights lodging in the months of a hotel-based program on Isla de la August, September, or October), we Juventud. Its Isla de la Juventud trips guarantee your boat will get at least are all mothership based at this point. three marlin bites on conventional I won’t go into detail about the tackle over the length of the trip. Oldiri fisheries. You can read about That’s right. Three bites by the man them yourself on the Oldiri Fishing in the blue, black, or striped suit over website (www.mayoldirifishing.com. three days fishing! If you don’t get Click on the Flag of England icon to a specialty of working with fly fisher- three bites, we will do the following: read the site in English.) The site is men who want to catch both sailfish One to two marlin bites: 50 per- not very informative as this is writ- and marlin. I will tell you about their cent of the value of your trip will be ten (there are no prices, for example), fly-oriented marlin guarantee in a put towards a future trip at Pacific but Oldiri says a new site is under moment. Since it is an extension of a Fins (yes, it is transferrable). construction. In the meantime, the traditional-tackle guarantee, I’ll ex- Zero marlin bites: Your party prices I was given for these trips are plain that first. comes back for a FREE three-fishing- very low, relative to the cost of a lot Seems Pacific Fins, in 2015, day, four-night trip. This latter offer of other Cuban fishing trips. Oldiri started guaranteeing groups of tradi- is for the intact group to return to- has two mothership options in the tional-tackle anglers that they would gether, mind you. In other words, if Cayos de San Felipe. The lower-cost get at least three marlin bites in three your group consists of four anglers, mothership outing costs $3,100 for days during the three-month marlin the offer does not cover four indi- five days of fishing, six nights of ac- high season in Guatemala that runs vidual trips; it covers the four of you commodation. The more expensive from August through October. It’s a coming back together. And there is mothership trip costs $4,200 for a trip pretty audacious guarantee, you will one more caveat: you actually have to of the same duration. As for the hotel- have to admit. It was so audacious fish for marlin the whole time you are based trip option, the price I was giv- that Pacific Fins’ Scott Ruprecht says with us, or until you get your three en is only $2,400! That includes two the industry as a whole thought he bites. You can’t switch to sailfish or nights in Havana, the flight to Isla de had gone mad. “It was not just other some other species.” la Juventud, and five days of guided outfitters who thought we were nuts,” So, what is the fly fishing guar- fishing. We will pass along more in- he says. “Clients did, too. And so did antee? Here goes: “If you book our

April 2017 -8- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT most popular package (three days fish- faced a $25,000 fine for this effort but perhaps other suggestions on how in- ing, four nights lodging) in the months continued to build. The current resort dividual subscribers can help stop this of August, September, or October, is an ungodly large concrete building project and similar ones that might be 2017, we guarantee your boat will sitting on what used to be a spectacu- on the drawing board. We will pass get at least six marlin raises over the lar reef that is now an open sore. If along what he says. In the meantime, course of your trip provided you fo- we as traveling fishermen do not get weigh in yourself if you have useful cus on fly fishing for marlin the entire involved in things like this, they will feedback. Write: doncausey@anglin- time. If you don’t get six raises, we continue to happen around the world. greport.com. will do the following: I’m basically a free-market individual, Three to five marlin raises: 50 but I realize small governments cannot „„ We’ve noted quite often that An- percent of the value of your trip will always hold their own against politi- gling Report subscribers are pretty be put towards a future trip at Pacific cal corruption, and that can result in special people who have done lots Fins. the loss of treasures such as Turneffe of unusual things in their lives. Wit- Zero to two marlin raises: 100 ness Honor Roll subscriber Lee Ann percent of the value of your trip will Ross, who worked for USAID as an be put toward a return trip of the same economist for many years, sometimes duration (three days fishing, four in very hot parts of the world (double nights lodging) for your intact party.” entendre intended). One of those was Getting six marlin raises is a long Yemen, a country that is said to have way from guaranteeing you will catch some interesting fishing when (or if) a marlin on the fly, of course, but it it gets safe enough to visit again. At does pretty much assure you of some any rate, if you plan to go there, you excitement. If you check this out, be may want to note what Lee Ann has sure and file a report. Write: doncau- to say about the heat there: “Yemen [email protected]. was a fascinating place. I was in my mid-20s when I worked there, and I „„ Subscriber Fred Schmitz is very found the heat on the Red Sea coast in concerned about a development he Atoll. There is a Turneffe Atoll Marine the summer just unbearable. We used saw on a recent trip to Turneffe Atoll Trust (www.turneffeatollmarinere- to say it ‘fried your brain.’ We all did in Belize. He writes: “While I was serve.org) that may be a place to make everything we could to avoid going to visiting Turneffe Atoll in 2012 and donations.” the coast in the summer. I remember again quite recently, I came across a Editor Note: We understand work on being in Djibouti and playing tennis large development by what I think is a this development has stopped, but with my friend in the morning. The Canadian company. What I have heard only because the principals ran out of competition to get the first shower about the development really amazes money, not because they were firmly was fierce because the first person got me and concerns me for the future and finally stopped in their tracks. We the little bit of cool water that was in of Turneffe Atoll. Seems the Cana- have sent this item to Craig Hayes, the pipes that ran through the house. dian company dynamited the reef and the conservation-minded owner of When that was gone, super-hot water dredged the sand to build up an island Turneffe Flats Lodge, for more in- from the water tank on top of the roof without any permission. I’m told they formation on the development and arrived. Ouch!”

OUTFITTER CRITIQUES The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

This section of The Angling Report is based entirely on subscriber-written Fishing Trip Report Forms. Our policy on these forms is to publish excerpts in the newslet- ter of Angler Network Forms as received without censorship. Agents, guides, lodge operators, and/or outfitters who disagree with anything said about them in this section are free to submit a rebuttal. As a subscriber, you can help extend the reach of this program by filing a Fishing Trip Report Form yourself. You should find one inside this issue of your newsletter. Alternately, you can file a report online by going to our website, www.anglingreport.com, and clicking on “File a Report.” For details about how to do custom searches for Angler Network Reports on our website, see page 2 of this issue. „„ Subscriber Tim Hagerty has con- Canada to take sea-run and lodge, Royal Coachman in Wood-Tikchik tributed some important reports over the on a dry fly. This month, he State Park. Somewhat belatedly, we are years, including one way back in 2010 weighs in with a thoughtful report on putting Tim Hagerty on our Subscriber about a place in the Ungava region of what he calls a “great” Alaska fly-out Honor Roll for his continuing contribu-

April 2017 -9- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT tions. His Honor Roll Fishing cap is al- very hot water. The meals are excellent. I It begins very near the lodge and extends ready in the mail. do not personally grade lodges on the cu- a few miles in both directions, upstream “I have fished at Royal Coachman linary experience they provide, but I have and downstream. These fish are particu- now every year since 2004. The time heard many guests marvel at the quality larly important to the overall experience frame of my most recent trip was this past of the food. on those days when bad weather makes August 21 thru 28. I have also fished this “No expense is spared to keep clients flying out difficult. lodge in late September and early August feeling welcome, warm, comfortable, and “Another fish you can go for here is over the years. This last trip, I’m happy to very well fed. The guides are the best I grayling. The Wood-Tikchik Park area report, is my 42nd to Alaska since I first have had the good fortune to fish with. has large grayling available in certain ar- fished there in 1989. I usually travel and The same crew, with very few exceptions, eas. No matter how experienced one is in fish at two fine Alaska lodges each year. has been there for years. The camp man- Alaska fishing, it’s always nice to devote With this much fishing experience, it is ager, Scott, has over 25 years’ experience a few minutes here and there to dry-fly clearly significant that Royal Coachman guiding and managing Alaska lodges. He fishing for these beautiful fish. A 16- to has earned an annual place on my Alaska works off-season in the Sweetwater travel 18-inch grayling may not pull your line as calendar. office. I am a very picky fisherman, hav- hard as a rainbow, but there are not many “Royal Coachman is owned by Pat ing paid a lot of dues over the years with opportunities to fish with a dry fly in and Dan Vermillion of Sweetwater Travel guides, and in my assessment, this is a Alaska. Believe me, you know you have (www.sweetwatertravel.com). Pat is the world-class crew. They work well with all a fish on when a large grayling begins to principal here, and he is at the lodge for dance at the end of a 6 weight! a good part of the season. He still guides “But getting back to the Dolly Var- there and does not just sit in the front of- den and Arctic char fishing available here, fice. The cost of my trip was $8,700, plus the lodge has access to two particularly the cost of a flight with PenAir from An- remote areas that I like a lot. The small chorage to Dillingham. The lodge picks rivers there are easy to wade, and the fish- you up at the airport in Dillingham and ing is mostly to sighted fish. It is quite a transports you by van to Lake Alagnak, thrill to watch your fly be taken by some where you take a 40-minute scenic float- of these monsters! These streams have plane ride to the lodge on the Nuyakuk gravel bottoms and a moderate current. River in Wood-Tikchik State Park. Depending on your fitness level, you can “What makes Royal Coachman walk far upstream or stay within a half Lodge unique among Alaska’s many mile of where your chosen stream enters quality fly-out lodges is its ability to fly levels of fly fishermen of any age. They the lake where your float plane awaits. you (weather permitting) to very differ- are courteous and polite, and they can The scenery here is spectacular. In one ent fisheries every day where there are handle a boat as well as any I have seen. special area you can sight-cast to golden- very few or, in many instances, no other “The fish I target most at Roy- colored (yes, golden-colored!) Arctic fishermen around. That is in striking con- al Coachman Lodge are rainbows, of char. The average size of these fish is an trast to many otherwise very good lodges. course, but there are also large Dolly Var- honest 21 to 24 inches (taped, not guess- Indeed, at Royal Coachman Lodge, you den on tap here and large, hard-fighting timated). On a typical trip, we usually are in truly remote country, just you and a Arctic char, along with great coho/chum catch fish up to 26 inches, and I have seen floatplane to put you on great fish in sce- fishing and, at times, king fishing char up to 30 inches landed here. I see my nic country in the company of excellent that is shared with just one other lodge. backing on every trip in search of these guides. The scenery in Wood-Tikchik is As for the rainbows, which are available big boys. breathtaking. Several of the fly outs take right in front of the lodge, their fight “As for the coho/chum and king you into the Togiak Wilderness and allow and size are top notch. The lodge’s king salmon fishing, Royal Coachman shares you to fish streams and rivers accessible salmon area may have the most rainbows a lease on a small river with one other only via government lease. Royal Coach- overall, but Royal Coachman also fishes lodge where these species can all be man cannot fish several of these more the Agulopak, Alaska’s first catch-and- found. The fish I really like to pursue in than once a week. I will leave them name- release rainbow fishery, and other areas August are sea-fresh coho (or silver salm- less on purpose. where you can fish for rainbows in soli- on) in the 28- to 32-inch range. Yes, some “The lodge itself is first-class with tude on smaller streams and rivers. I like do get a bit bigger, but there are few, if large dual-bed cabins, each with a spa- the home-base rainbows a lot, despite any, of the five- to six-pound silvers that cious flush-toilet bathroom. There are the fact that you don’t catch one on every dominate some systems elsewhere. When easy-to-manage oil stoves in each cabin. cast. These fish are tough, and they go I fish Royal Coachman in mid- to late Very quiet generators are used to generate aerial a lot. Rainbows up to 30 inches August, they are plentiful, however, and power. The showers in each cabin have have been caught at this close-in fishery. bright as a dime with sea lice. A bonus

April 2017 -10- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT here is the moderate depth of the river. It $150 for a half day. See the web site for tom of his report, by the way, he indicates makes wading possible, but a lot of an- the variety of fish available at different he will be sending more details on this glers just stay in the boat and let the guide times of year. outing. We will pass those on when we walk them around to various areas. These receive them, as we know other subscrib- silvers will take a slider or popper with „„ Still on the subject of ATV-assisted ers are beginning to view Argentina (and some regularity. Every year is different, fishing trips, subscriber Scott Moore says Chile to a lesser extent) as suitable places but I always go to this special coho river he enjoyed that same kind of outing in to simply fish on your own the way many to fish top water. Having experienced a lot Argentina this past January. He arranged anglers do in the Rocky Mountain West. of quality silver fishing over the years, I the trip through Anglers Aventuras (www. We will be glad to help feed this new typically limit myself to one day of coho anglerspatagonia.com), a fly shop in the interest by sharing any information we fishing at Royal Coachman. town of Perito Moreno in Patagonia. receive on do-it-yourself trips in that part “In summary, there are many fine Moore’s somewhat sketchy report indi- of the world. Write: doncausey@anglin- lodges in Alaska, but in my view Royal cates he and a partner fished for rainbow greport.com. Coachman is a stand-out if you want re- and in a remote lake by the Controversy mote, scenic fishing for rainbows, large name of Lago Yakush. They camped out „„ Subscriber Jim Duke is not happy char, Dolly Varden, coho/chum, and in the open with sleeping bags. “Fishing with a float trip on the Kwethluk River kings (in season), along with plentiful was difficult partly due to the weather,” in Alaska handled for him last August by grayling and quality fishing right outside he writes. “I landed only one five-pound Ouzel Expeditions (www.ouzel.com). He the lodge. Certainly, the accommodation writes: “I don’t like to present negative and meals at Royal Coachman are also reports, but in the spirit of honesty and first-class. Personally, I keep coming back helpfulness, I believe I need to report on here for the remote experience, the qual- the weeklong trip arranged for me on the ity fishing, and the chance to fly through Kwethluk River by Ouzel Expeditions. some of the most spectacular scenery in My research on the company beforehand Alaska.” Customer Support „„ Now here is a very different kind of report! It’s from long-time subscriber Dr. Procedures William Schlichtemeier, who gives high Website/Login Issues marks to a one-day fishing trip to the Lost your username or password? Saltery River organized for him this past Have some other kind of technical prob- September on Kodiak Island, Alaska, lem related to the website and/or the by Reel Extreme Alaska (www.reelex- database? tremealaska.com). The trip to the river brown trout in two days of fishing. We Due to volume, the tech team involved a 16-mile overland journey by did observe a number of fish, however, conducts support exclusively via e- ATV. He calls that journey and the overall apparently with cataracts, suspended in mail through a ticketing system. Write: experience “fabulous” despite a near- very shallow water. They appeared to be [email protected]. absence of silver salmon, the intended completely blind.” Contacting that address will generate quarry. “We had to work very hard for Moore says they divided their time an automated response indicating your our fish,” Schlichtemeier writes, noting between float fishing and wade fishing, inquiry has been received and is in the he caught only three silvers. “Reel Alaska using mostly sinking lines. The preferred queue for support. The tech team ad- owner Wes Seward said 2016 was the first flies were large, rubber-leg Woolly Bug- dress is also posted at the bottom of the time he has been ‘skunked’ by the Salt- gers. “The weather was very windy,” he website. ery since 2008. There are usually a huge writes. “At times, the lake had white caps Subscription-Related Issues number of fish in this stream. Just not this on it. On day two, the wind died down, Want to renew your print subscrip- past year. Two other rivers nearby were and that was when the brown was caught. tion? Visit www.anglingreport.com and closed due to low returns.” Schlichtemei- The highlight of the trip was camping out click “Subscribe.” For mailing address er gives the cost of his one-day outing as under the southern Argentine sky. Beau- changes or other issues related to your $350 per person per day. He recommends tiful! We rode in on ATVs. There was print subscription, send an e-mail to the experience to fellow subscribers so much scenery to take in. The guides theanglingreport@emailcustomerser- whose sense of fishing fun is as varied would take you for a hike or ride on one vice.com. Or call Palm Coast Data at as his is. “This was a real adventure,” he of the ATV trails if you wanted to do that 800-283-9471. These contact details are writes. “Go!” at any point in the trip.” also posted at the bottom of the website Postscript: Reel Alaska offers a road-trip Postscript: Moore gives the cost of his (www.anglingreport.com). version of this trip for only $250 a day; two-day trip as $840. In a note at the bot-

April 2017 -11- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT indicated a good reputation with many mattered that we also ran out of propane concern. Sometimes, when the fishing and years of experience. Moreover, the fishing with which to cook. We were picked up the weather are tough, people still have partner I was assigned to travel with told at 11 on the last morning for a two-and- a great trip if they are having fun. In this me he had fished with Ouzel numerous a-half-hour boat ride back to Bethel with case, the guides told me the group seemed times, including on a trip to . Other no arrangement for food on the way or on to be having a good time, but they did reports I gathered on the company were all arrival. Needless to say, after no breakfast keep to themselves and didn’t talk a lot. I positive. except a candy bar, I was a little hungry. was worried because a bad attitude can de- “First the good part. I always felt safe “Two of us on the trip contacted the velop in a circumstance like that and ruin a on this trip, and I caught lots of large fish. owner after our trip both by e-mail and good time. Indeed, this appears to be what I also met four wonderful fishing partners by phone regarding our issues. The only happened. for the first time. They were all good fish- response we got was lots of excuses and “We did not run out of food on this ermen, helpful, and fun to spend a week blame placed on the fishermen.” trip. After meals, the guides told me they with. Their attitude and help in the face of Rebuttal Comment by Paul Allred had to throw a lot of food out every day. adversity was a great help. of Ouzel Expeditions: “Jim Duke seems The boat boxes at the end of the trip had “Now, the problems: Forget the fact like a very nice man, and I’m sure he is. a lot of food left in them. As for the pro- that our flight from Anchorage to Bethel pane, we did not run out until after cook- got canceled at the last minute and we ing breakfast on the last morning of the were a day late beginning our trip. As for trip. Big deal. We cleaned the dishes back the guides, the nicest thing one could say home after the trip. about the two we had was that they were “Our guides did help these guys with totally incompetent. Calling them guides is fishing. The guests were told to use Dali an insult to the profession. One had never Lamas. It’s pretty simple fishing this time been on this river before and only came to of year. They did use Dali Lamas, and they Alaska once a year. Neither guide made did catch lots of really nice fish. All I can a single fly recommendation or offered say is this is one of the weirdest things I’ve any advice on what setup to use or what ever heard of in 40 years of doing business kind of presentation to make. Not once did in Alaska. I guess the old saying is true, either guide assist in landing a fish. That’s you can’t make everyone happy all the where my fishing companions came in I’m sorry he did not enjoy our service on time. handy. Throughout the trip we assisted one his trip last August. Attitude is everything “Both of our guides on this trip were another a great deal. On two occasions, the someone told me once. It’s pretty hard highly experienced. One had worked for guide on my raft actually started fishing to take some of the things he has said. me at one point for 10 years and the other before I got out of the raft. As an 87-year- Ungratefulness comes to mind. Hurtful had been going on trips for me since he old, I was a little slow sometimes getting statements come to mind. Once in a while, was eight years old. He helped out on at in and out of the raft, but I was never of- we cannot make everyone happy. Seems least 30 weeklong trips over the years. fered any assistance by either guide. One hard to believe that anyone could have Incompetent? I think not. Attitude is ev- of the guides had a bottle of Jim Beam such a negative attitude after having such erything. on his raft from which he occasionally great fishing success in a truly wild part of “Anyone who would like to see an- imbibed. I must say that I never saw any Alaska. Remember, we work every single other report on an Ouzel Expedition trip indication that his actions were impaired. day from early in the morning till late at to the same river at the same time of year He even offered to share the bottle with night on a trip like this. with some of the same guides, should me on two occasions. “Jim Duke would have never been check out the March 2016 Angling Report. “Worse than all of the above, we ran able to make this trip on his own. I talked There is a really positive report in that is- short of food about halfway through the to our guides every day by satellite phone sue by subscriber William Bartlow. He and week. By the end of the week we were and text. Every day, I asked: ‘How are they a very positive group of guys enjoyed our out completely. At that point, it hardly liking the trip?’ This is always a major services. They had a really good attitude.”

And Finally . . . Dirty Water in South Florida and What to Do about It by Bill Horn Don Causey Note: The Angling Report destinations, and I always keep that in cal interests need apply” has been my is an international publication focused mind as I ponder what kind of items mantra for the 25-plus years I have on providing information about fishing to publish each month. “No purely lo- headed up this publication. But there

April 2017 -12- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT are times when almost any rule needs available to provide Florida Bay clean suffered badly and by the mid-80’s a to be broken, and that is what I’m do- water (i.e., <10 ppb phosphorus) in des- combination of too little fresh water ing by publishing the following letter perately needed greater quantities. (and concomitant hyper salinity) and from Bill Horn, whose credentials for The observations, facts and com- poor quality fresh water (loaded with speaking out are included in his letter. ments below are offered from four phosphorus) spurred in the Bay wide- The letter is about the dirty-water prob- personal perspectives: first as a Mara- spread seagrass die offs and subsequent lem that is imperiling one of the most thon resident and voter, second as algae blooms. The algae rendered the beloved and important fishing areas in former Assistant Secretary of the Inte- water a turbid pea soup green, killing the world, namely, the Florida Ever- rior for Fish, Wildlife and Parks under more grass, killing prey organisms, and glades and Florida Bay. It is also foul- President Reagan, third as a former driving away fish. The Bay was in a ing waters on both coasts of Florida, four-year member (2007–2010) of the death spiral. It acted as a wakeup call killing manatees and dolphins, deci- National Academy of Sciences Ever- creating the impetus for the 1988 and mating sea grass, driving wading bird glades Restoration Review Committee, 2000 Congressional actions and paral- populations down precipitously, making and fourth as Vice Chairman of the lel State commitments to restoration. it dangerous to swim at certain times of Bonefish and Tarpon Trust. I have been Fast forward to 2010. The plans to send the year in iconic areas such as Sanibel engaged on Everglades and Florida greater quantities of clean fresh water Island, and absolutely crashing the in- Bay issues for over 30 years and the south from Okeechobee, to restore a shore fishing for just about everything optimism that attended enactment of semblance of natural flows, ran into except tarpon, which are largely migra- the 1988 East Everglades and Modi- two fundamental problems: untreated tory in Florida. The shame of it all is Lake water is too dirty (approximately this: We know how to fix this problem, 100 ppb phosphorus) to send into the and we know the next step that has to ’Glades (with a federal-state water be taken, namely, we have to secure the quality standard of < 10 ppb phospho- land for the construction of vast set- rus) and present STA’s are insufficient tling ponds (or STAs), then get started to store, clean up, and release the on creating those ponds. Bill Horn quantities of fresh water needed for a describes the problem and the solution healthy Everglades and Bay. Since it well in the letter that follows, which he will take 40 or more years for the Lake wrote recently to his local representa- to clean itself, the 2010 National Acad- tive in the Keys, Holly Raschein. Read emy of Sciences Everglades committee it and weep. And then, please, follow identified more STA’s as the best imme- the course of action I outline in the diate option: “increasing water storage postscript. fied Water Deliveries Act, the 2000 (and associated water quality treatment) Comprehensive Everglades Restoration is a major near term priority” (Prog- Dear Rep. Raschein: Project (CERP), and Florida’s Acceler8 ress Toward Restoring the Everglades, I urge you to strongly support has all but evaporated in the face of in- Third Biennial Review–2010, National prompt enactment of SB 10/HB 761 cessant delays and return of fouled pea Research Council of the National Acad- and make passage of this important soup water to Florida Bay (and the St. emies, p. 147). SB 10/HB 761 does just measure one of your highest priority Lucie and Caloosahatchee ). that. And this priority for more STA’s items for this session. Florida Bay is in “Getting the water right” has been south of Okeechobee was identified dire straits and without timely infusions the mantra of the Everglades restora- before the 2015 return of devastating of additional clean fresh water via the tion efforts. In simple terms, clean hyper salinity and algae blooms in the Everglades, especially Taylor Slough, water that once flowed south from Bay made the need for additional STA’s the Bay is nearing an ecological tipping Lake Okeechobee in a river miles wide even greater. point from which it may never recover. and inches deep emptied into Florida Opponents of SB 10/HB 761 ap- Similar, less damaging conditions in Bay via the Everglades and Taylor pear to claim that there are alternatives the Bay—30 years ago—created the Slough. The natural mix of clean fresh to more STA’s south of the Lake. There impetus for Everglades restoration yet and salt water in the Bay created an may be “alternatives” but none are ef- here we are again; our Keys can no of unparalleled productivity fective or efficient. One is a new STA longer afford the tortured and tortoise supporting outstanding populations of north of the Lake where it will do no like pace of restoration. Construction fish and wildlife. Unfortunately, by good for Florida Bay. Limiting phos- of new Stormwater Treatment Areas the mid-60’s, the Everglades had been phorus inputs for the Lake from the (STA’s) south of Lake Okeechobee, as dammed, ditched, and diked diverting Kissimmee system is an important long authorized by SB 10/HB 761, is the most of Lake O’s water to the Atlantic. term strategy, but the short term effect only relatively immediate measure The water starved ‘Glades and Bay on the Lake’s 100 ppb phosphorus level

April 2017 -13- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT will be non-existent. Hence, an STA proven STA technology. Trying to res- letter of support for SB 10/HB 761 north of the Lake does nothing to ad- urrect ASR is just a misdirection play and send it to the key players indicated dress the shortage of clean water, des- and a transparent stall tactic. below. Refer to the threat this problem perately needed now in the Everglades The bottom line is this: (1) New poses to the tourism and retirement- and Bay, south of the Lake. STA’s south of Okeechobee are needed related economy of Florida. If the dirty Similarly there seem to be ef- to store, clean up and send needed water conditions described above affect forts to resurrect Aquifer Storage and freshwater to the Everglades and Flor- your own personal readiness to visit Recovery (ASR) as an alternative to ida Bay; (2) SB 10/HB 761 starts the and/or retire or invest in Florida, state southside STA’s. ASR was part of the process for new STA’s. Since there as much in strong personal terms. If original plans but has failed the test in are no good alternatives, and STA’s you are the CEO of a corporation or the interim 16 years; trying to store vast represent a proven and cost effective have a high-level position in media quantities of water underground, and technology, prompt enactment and or government, point that out. Write: simultaneously attempting to clean up implementation of these measures is Richard Corcoran, Speaker, Florida that water, simply doesn’t work on the necessary if we want to have a fighting House of Representatives (http://www. scales needed for restoration. By 2010 chance to save Florida Bay. Sincerely, richardcorcoran.com/contact-richard- ASR was rejected by a wide array of William P. Horn. corcoran/); Florida Governor Rick Everglades scientists as ineffective and Postscript: If you want to help with Scott (http://www.flgov.com/contact- inefficient especially compared to the this issue, please craft your own e-mail governor/)

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April 2017 -14- Volume 30, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT

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April 2017 -16- Volume 30, Number 4