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The Desert National Park in MADHUMITA PANIGRAHI, ADITI MUKHERJEE & Rajasthan is a unique gem among the AAKRITI SINGH biodiversity treasure chest that India has to offer. RTICLE A EATURE F HAT is the fi rst thought that Himalayas. Lying in the country’s extreme Our jeep took a detour as the guards Wfl ashes across your mind when west dominated by semi-arid conditions, had to patrol the area. This gave us an you hear ‘Rajasthan’? Is it the unending DNP spread over an area of 3162 sq km opportunity to get a glimpse of the Indian golden hues of sand dunes, the desert, the is the largest national park and the sole spiny-tailed lizard (Saara hardwickii) camels, the colourful and lively culture, representative of desert ecosystems in locally known as ‘Saanda’. Each individual the folklores of kings and queens or the India. Most of the national park is a part is known to excavate its own burrow not aesthetic food? of the Great Indian Desert also known as more than 2 m long, usually basks close For wildlife researchers like us, it was the Thar Desert. to the entrance and swi ly recedes back the earthy call of the desert wilderness Accompanied by the forest at the slightest hint of danger. They can and that’s where we begun our journey department staff , we journeyed into this be easily seen throughout the summer, into the Desert National Park (DNP) with dry, sandy, desolate region inappropriately are predominantly herbivores and mostly the hope of experiencing some wildlife termed ‘lifeless’ by many. We were keen preyed upon by raptors. exclusive to the topography. to get a glimpse of the species that have To get a good look at the entire It was indeed a spectacle of a diff erent successfully adapted themselves to this landscape, we visited the second tallest kind, in stark contrast to the lush green resilient topography. On our way, the hills of the area with a temple named forests, the golden beaches with the vast accompanying forest guards entertained ‘Nabh Dungar’, situated at a height of ocean or the snow-capped peaks of the us with li le anecdotes about the land. around 700 . Herds of camels walking in Science Reporter, DECEMBER 2016 34 FEATURE ARTICLE According to geomorphologists, two major dune types are found – the naturally stabilized ‘old’ dunes and currently forming mobile ‘new’ dunes. Dunes that have attained Stoliczka’s bushchat natural stability in the past few decades are now Steppe eagle under different phases of degradation. oleoidis), Ber (Zizyphus mauritiana), etc. which has made this region a hotspot for A er a small ride further, we fi nally global conservation. It is locally known as reached our camp at ‘Sudasari’ nearly ‘Godawan’. 40 km from the Forest Department The population of this critically Headquarters at Jaisalmer. This place endangered species is confi ned to the is towards the northern part of the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharashtra, sanctuary which is maintained by Madhya Pradesh, Karnataka and Andhra the Forest Department. One has to be Pradesh. Their numbers are estimated to careful with the water shortage and it is be less than 300, which is dwindling at suggested to hire a vehicle for easy access an alarming rate across its distribution. to the surrounding area. Thanks to our skilled forest guards we Among antelopes and small were able to locate a few, stretching their mammals, the state animal Chinkara or neck up and peeking through the ‘Sewan’ Indian Gazelle (Gazella benneĴ ii), Black (Lasiurus sindicu) grass. buck (Antilope cervicapra), Indian Desert The bird is known for its very Fox (Vulpes v. pusilla), and Bengal Fox (V. sensitive nature and in the words of bengalensis) are easily spo ed. The area the forest guards if disturbed more is also rich in bird diversity with about than twice, it might fl y up to 2-3 km 270 reported species. House sparrow straightaway abandoning its post. The which is otherwise rapidly disappearing forest department has undertaken various from the urban areas was noticeably measures under the ‘Project Great Indian seen in huge fl ocks. Grey Francolin, Bustard-2013’, like habitat enrichment Tawny Pipit, White-eared Bulbul, Black- by planting grasses like Lasiurus sindicus, crowned sparrow lark, Eurasian collared providing water facilities through water a single fi le through the barren landscape dove, Common babbler, Desert wheatear, guzzlers and habitat protection through provided a classic backdrop. The summer Variable wheatear, Steppe eagle, Tawny the creation of open enclosures of was not in its scorching glory; hence we eagle, Indian silverbill, Laughing appropriate size to restrain the locals could see small ponds partially fi lled with dove, Spo ed dove Striolated bunting, and grazing ca le from entering. This water providing refuge to winter visitors Chestnut-shouldered petronia, Griff on move has alienated the locals from the like Northern Pintail and Common vulture, Short-toed eagle, Greater short green pastures for their increasing ca le Pochard and quite a few resident birds. toed lark were also easily spo ed. population, which further aggravated The Spo ed Sandgrouse, a winter the tension between locals and the forest The desolate landscape, however, visitor, was an easy bird to sight by department. According to the Forest had a few patches of vegetation specifi c its typical fl ight pa ern. Stoliczka’s Department report (2014), 103 GIBs were to these conditions. These include Bhui bushchat, a vulnerable species, made an recorded from the park. Stabilizing the (Aerva pseudotomentosa), Phog (Calligonum extended appearance. Few harriers and GIB population in the present scenario polygonoides), Kair (Capparis decidua), eagles could not be identifi ed owing to seems to be an uphill task. Saniya (Crotalaria burhia), Tumba (Citrullus their fl ying height. DNP is also known as a good colocynthis), Sewan (Lasiurus sindicus), The highlight of the trip was none wintering ground for another near Kheimp (Leptadenia pyrotechnica), Khejri other than the state bird of Rajasthan, the threatened bustard species, the Houbara (Prosopis cineraria), Piloo (Salvadora Great Indian Bustard (Ardeotis nigriceps), bustard (Chlamydotis macqueenii) which 35 Science Reporter, DECEMBER 2016 FEATURE ARTICLE Great Indian Bustard Chinkara in picturesque landscape Indian Desert Jird Among antelopes and small mammals, the state animal Chinkara or Indian Gazelle (Gazella bennettii), Black buck (Antilope cervicapra), Indian Desert Fox (Vulpes v. pusilla), and Bengal Fox (V. bengalensis) are easily spotted. The area is also rich in bird diversity with about 270 reported species. km from Sudasari are a major tourist a raction. It off ers recreational activities like camel rides and cultural shows in the nearby desert camps. Though this place provides ample opportunity for tourists. we could not sight during our stay as the that of Indian Desert Bird (Meriones But none of us enjoyed the blemished bird probably would have migrated back hurrianae). They make numerous intricate panorama of the dunes overpowered with to its breeding ground. Nevertheless, the interconnected subterranean holes camel ferry carts and clu ered garbage. place is a heaven for wildlife enthusiasts. preferably under the bush in so soil. It Fortunately, we got a chance to see A stroll by the road itself gives ample is incredibly amusing to observe them a few enclosed sand dunes managed opportunity to witness the wildlife entering one hole and exiting another in a by the Forest Department away from around this region starting with beetles, fl icker. They seem to spend most of their tourist footfall. Here we cherished desert ants, skinks or small rodents. time digging or feeding on plant ma er. the opportunity to spot the intricate Apart from the birds mentioned Breathtakingly beautiful sand dunes pa erns on sand made by the beetles, above, another interesting sighting was were our next stop. Sam sand dunes, 14 skinks, Chinkara, Desert cat, Desert fox Science Reporter, DECEMBER 2016 36 FEATURE ARTICLE Indian spiny-tailed lizard and various other animals. We were If one enjoys star gazing and night latitudes towards the east of the country expecting snake species like ‘side winder’ photography, this place provides an have regions receiving maximum rainfall slithering across the glistening sand but excellent setup as artifi cial light in this while in west the minimum. This region, unfortunately they had still not emerged area is limited. Owing to its fl at terrain which once supported a luxuriant forest from hibernation. we observed the sun se ing with its last as evident in Akal wood fossils is now a It was pointed out by the forest orange gleam for the day and the moon barren desert ecosystem. guard that some years ago this particular rising with its silvery shimmer together in Ever increasing needs of people dune and several others used to be about diff erent directions simultaneously. It was have resulted in encroachment upon 60 metre higher than their present height. indeed an unforge able sight. this so-called ‘lifeless wasteland’. With Locals and forest offi cials also said that Our journey culminated with a visit good potential to harness wind energy, these stunning sand dunes are fast losing to the Akal wood fossils, an area spread substantial investments have been their height. It has reduced to half and is across 108 hectares about 18 km from pouring into the state for developing in fact vanishing from some places. the city of Jaisalmer. This place contains wind farms that are known to be the According to geomorphologists, an extraordinary collection of fossilized largest on-shore wind farms in the world. two major dune types are found – the wood, dating back to 180 million years, Though it might seem to have spoilt naturally stabilized ‘old’ dunes and reminiscent of the luxuriant forest that the aesthetics of the landscape and is a currently forming mobile ‘new’ dunes.

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