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Best of Arizona 2012 Williams •Bear Wallow Caf Plus: Escape • Explore •Experience •Explore Escape

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Best of Arizona 2012 Williams •Bear Wallow Caf Plus: Escape • Explore •Experience •Explore Escape CRUISING AZ BEST OF ARIZONA 2012 in a 1929 Ford AUGUST 2012 ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE Things — CARL PERKINS to Do Before 31 You Die “If it weren’t for weren’t the rocks it “If in its bed, no song.” the stream have would PLUS: HOPI CHIPMUNKS • THE GRAND CANYON • JIM HARRISON • INDIAN ROAD 8 WILLIAMS • BEAR WALLOW CAFÉ • DUTCH TILTS • ASPENS • STRAWBERRY SCHOOL CONTENTS 08.12 Grand Canyon National Park Third Mesa 2 EDITOR’S LETTER > 3 CONTRIBUTORS > 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR > 56 WHERE IS THIS? Supai Parks Williams Oak Creek 5 THE JOURNAL 46 THE MAN IN THE CREEK Strawberry Alpine People, places and things from around the state, including Jim Harrison likes water. Actually, he loves water. Ironically, Cave Creek Hank Delaney, the most unique mail carrier in the world; he doesn’t find a lot of it in Patagonia. What he does find is Point of Pines the Bear Wallow Café, a perfect place for pie in the White inspiration for his novels. He also finds camaraderie in some PHOENIX Mountains; and Williams, our hometown of the month. of the characters who live in his neck of the woods. BY KELLY KRAMER Patagonia 18 31 THINGS TO DO BEFORE PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT BAXTER YOU KICK THE BUCKET 52 SCENIC DRIVE • POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE Everyone needs to see the Grand Canyon before he dies, Point of Pines Road: Elk, pronghorns, bighorns, black bears, but it’s not enough to just see it. It needs to be experi- meadows, mountains, trees, eagles, herons, ospreys ... enced, away from the crowds, at a place like Toroweap. there’s so much to see on this scenic drive, you might have GET MORE ONLINE Or under a cottonwood at Indian Garden. Or in a raft on to do it twice. the Colorado River. In fact, we suggest putting all three www.arizonahighways.com on your bucket list, along with the other 28 things in this 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH Visit our website for details on weekend get- month’s cover story. aways, hiking, lodging, dining, photography Bill Williams Trail: Despite the idyllic nature of this moun- BY KATHY MONTGOMERY workshops, slideshows and more. tain hike, it’s never too busy — even in August, it’s quiet www.arizonahighways.wordpress.com enough to hear a pine needle drop. 30 THE CANYON, BY GEORGE Check out our blog for regular posts The Grand Canyon is one of the few things on Earth that on just about anything having to do with travel in Arizona, including Q&As with can be seen from outer space. It’s breathtaking from any writers and photographers, special events, viewpoint, but the best perspective is from the rim — in bonus photos, sneak peeks at upcoming person, with your own two eyes. Short of that, there are issues and more. photographs, thousands of which have been published in www.facebook.com/azhighways this magazine over the past 87 years. It’s an impressive col- Join our Facebook community to share lection that gets even better with this month’s portfolio. your photographs, chat with other fans, enter trivia contests and receive up-to-the- A PORTFOLIO BY GEORGE STOCKING minute information about what’s going on behind the scenes at Arizona Highways. 42 TRUCKIN’ Arizona Highways is on Instagram There are a lot of great roads in Arizona, including a few Follow us @arizonahighways to see our that’ll take you back in time. One of our favorite routes is travel photos from around the state. the one between Parks and Cave Creek. It’s a trip that’s even better in a 1929 Model A Ford pickup truck. Photographic Prints Available BY IVER PETERSON Prints of some photographs in this issue are PHOTOGRAPHS BY TERRENCE MOORE available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. ◗ Tall trees stand in silhouette against sunrise over Terry Flat in the White Mountains. | LAURENCE PARENT FRONT COVER Havasu Creek cascades over Beaver Falls on the Havasupai Indian Reservation in the Grand Canyon. | DAVID ELMS BACK COVER Lupines flank an aspen in a grassy meadow along the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. | SUZANNE MATHIA www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s letter contributors SCOTT BAXTER You might recognize photographer The Banks of AUGUST 2012 VOL. 88, NO. 8 Scott Baxter’s name from the 100 800-543-5432 www.arizonahighways.com Years, 100 Ranchers images we Sonoita Creek PUBLISHER Win Holden recently featured. Although Baxter EDITOR Robert Stieve didn’t photograph a rancher for SENIOR EDITOR Randy Summerlin this month’s issue, he did meet his ottonwoods are edible. The bark, The creek is what Cave Creek, continue MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Kramer in particular. It’s bitter, like a you see on our front south to Sonoita Creek, ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kathy Ritchie subject while visiting a ranch that was C handful of Bayer aspirin, but you cover, and of all the where you might run EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel included in the project. “I was going to PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida could make a meal of it, if you had to. The Mother Nature in this into Jim Harrison. Like a ranch outside of Patagonia,” Baxter CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney sap is edible, too. It’s starchy and sweet, issue, that spectacu- the Model A, Harri- ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney says. “When I drove across the creek, and tastes a lot better than the bark. It lar travertine water son is a classic. If his DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice there was an interesting-looking doesn’t taste good, just better. Nothing is perhaps the most name sounds familiar, MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey man standing in it with his two dogs.” PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi about a cottonwood tastes good — not unlikely — it looks it should. He’s the WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow Baxter returned a year later to photo- like the blueberry pie at Bear Wallow Café more like something KRISTIN KBH PHOTOGRAPHY HAYWARD, author of Legends of the DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero graph that man — author Jim Harrison — but the fast-growing willows serve you’d see in Maui. Fall, the book that was CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman — for The Man in the Creek (page 46). FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen In addition to Arizona Highways, Bax- a bigger purpose: Arguably, they’re the Unlikely is a good word to describe the made into a movie starring Brad Pitt and INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Cindy Bormanis hardest-working trees in the ecosystem. Desert Bar, too. The place is bizarre, to Anthony Hopkins. It’s Harrison’s most ter’s work has appeared in American Among other things, their canopies say the least, and it’s about the last thing famous work, but it’s hardly the extent of CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 Cowboy, True West and the American SPONSORSHIP SALES provide shade for wild roses and coati- you’d expect to see in the rugged moun- his catalogue — he has dozens of novels REPRESENTATION Ernie Mulholland Quarter Horse Association Journal. SUSAN LUSTENBERGER emm media services llc mundis, and help reduce water evapora- tains north of Parker. In fact, a herd of to his name, as well as countless poems. 602-971-6260 tion in desperate streams and rivers; bighorn sheep wearing pantsuits would In her beautifully written piece titled [email protected] their roots create overhanging banks be less surprising. The Man in the Creek, Kelly Kramer profiles LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] 2039 W. Lewis Avenue that provide habitat for Apache trout and As Kathy Montgomery writes: “When the prolific writer, who’s a character not Phoenix, AZ 85009 DAVID ELMS Chiricahua leopard frogs; and the Hopis, you see a copper steeple atop a chapel unlike those in his books. “He writes Photographer David Elms has been leading trips into GOVERNOR Janice K. Brewer Havasu Canyon for years, and he made this month’s who consider cottonwoods to be sacred, welded from steel plates, you’ll know DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT carve kachinas from their roots. The trees you’ve arrived.” But that’s only one OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski cover photo of Beaver Falls in one of the canyon’s most ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION are also big and beautiful. of the oddities. There’s also a pair BOARD CHAIRWOMAN Barbara Ann Lundstrom remote areas — a full day’s hike from Mooney Falls. One of the biggest I’ve ever seen is on of sheet-metal cooling towers, an VICE CHAIRMAN Victor M. Flores “Photographing nature requires you to embrace nature the east end of Aravaipa Canyon. It’s not outdoor concert stage, and a main MEMBERS Stephen W. Christy fully,” Elms says. “That means sitting all day in the rain; the biggest, though. The giant sequoia barroom with glass refrigerator doors Kelly O. Anderson waiting out a 110-degree afternoon; sunrise shots on a of cottonwoods lives along the banks of for windows. What’s more, the place Hank Rogers cold, snowy morning; and hiking back in the dark.” Elms Joseph E. La Rue Sonoita Creek in Patagonia. Even if you closes down at sundown. Sundown. It’s William J. Feldmeier has been shooting for Arizona Highways since 1986. His are a tree hugger, you’re going to have a different, but if you’re tired of follow- work has also appeared in Sunset and Geo. hard time getting your arms around this ing the plow, a road trip to the Desert Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by the Arizona Department of Transportation.
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