Singapore WHERE PASSION AND POSSIBILITIES MEET

In association with D ROA RSON CPH P MA IE T H O M

S

O

N

R

O A D WAY (PIE) DUN RESS BUK EAR EXP IT T N RO AND IMA AD SL H R PAN I OAD D A O R E E H R T T O C C L E LA R N R ROAD D A F Novena N R B OA UK D IT T IMA D H R

R O

AD

A

T S I Y Little India ROAD V A A W

N S O C O O N U M RC B M E HA E H O RD N U T W RO Y R Q O E AD T A

A E W N L Arab H TH E IG R H A T L V Quarter L Kallang OAD E S O O R

N PH IC TEN U P I N AT E E R TB R UN S T R O E O D M IN E C R R H P T O S R R IA D R O East Coast River Valley T IC ST PARKWAY (ECP) H V EAST COA Park O S O T Q A T M U F K O E C R E I Colonial D Marina N A A R LEXA M S NDRA RO District D D W AD H AY A GA I E Y NGES AVENUE GH R R AFFL R TIO S ES AV A N TR JA G BA E H HRU R E OAD T EX PR ES SW ) A E Y (A T YE) (C J Y Chinatown LAOS ALA A N B SSW MYANMAR THAILAND VIETNAM UK RE T IT XP E CBD M L E E ER A R

A R T D H CAMBODIA

T S A N E N Pulau Tioman

O E Marina C S

R NG City Park A TO P R U EC PA D E SIR RAFFLES QUAY PAN N JA A NG R X OA E BRUNEI D L

A MALAYSIA D A Park O R INDONESIA T L EL E O P Labrador K P B E 0500 miles Park LA K NG AH ROAD Harbourfront 500 km

AG ASOTNESPulau Brani Malaysia

Johor Causeway

YAWET Malaysia Woodlands Sungei Buloh

Singapore Night Safari &

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

Singapore Secon Singapore Bishan

d Link MacRitchie Toa Payoh Reservoir

Jurong Bird Park Little India Dempsey Hill & Joo Chiat Orchard Road & Bugis Chinatown Queenstown Marina Bay Jurong Labrador Park Marina Bay Singapore Cruise Centre Cruise Centre Sentosa

06km 06km

Indonesia

020.5 1 1.5 km

0

012 miles

020.5 1 1.5 2.5 3 km © Copyright Time Out Group 2007

0 Changi

km Editor’s note

WELCOME TO THE 2019 edition Pulau Ubin

of the Time Out Singapore WELCOME Guide. This edition presents not

only a comprehensive guide to

Tampine s

06 Singapore’s eating, shopping, sightseeing and nightlife, but introduces you to seven Malaysi a passionate Singapore locals

who’ll share their secrets about t

Katong & Joo Chia the city they love.

Toa Payo h

Marina Ba y

Cruise Centre This guide book will help go beyond what you think you know

Bishan o

Ang Mo Ki about the Little Red Dot. Venture into any of the 12 areas detailed

Marina Ba y a

Little Indi in these pages and you may find yourself walking among some

Kampong Glam n

Chinatow of the tallest trees in Asia (p35), drinking at a craft beer bar in

Reservoi r

Sentosa

MacRitchie a medicine hall (p33) or paying tribute to the (p35).

Orchard Road

Bras Basah & Bugi s

Mandai

Tiong Bahr u g Sembawan Join us in discovering this city that is constantly evolving,

Dempsey Hill reinventing and reimagining itself with people who are passionate

Singapor e

Cruise Centre s

Woodland about creating new possibilities for travellers to experience.

Singapor e e

Nature Reserv This is Singapore – where passion and possibilities meet.

Labrador Park

Queenstown

Night Safar i

& River Safari

Singapore Zo o y Causewa Guide Editor Charlene Fang Sub Editor Nick Dent Designer Mitchell Moore Associate Publisher Phil Bunting MD, Time Out Australia Michael Rodrigues

Produced by Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd’s Custom Guide Division on behalf of the Singapore

Tourism Board. For enquiries on the book call +61 2 8239 5990 or visit media.au.timeout.com

Sungei Bulo h

Info is correct at time of printing but may be subject to changes.

Lim Chu Kang For the latest info on Singapore see VisitSingapore.com

Jurong

d Link

3 Tuas Secon km 06 Indonesia BRUNEI VIETNA M Singapore SINGAPORE LAOS Malaysia MALAYSIA CAMBODIA INDONESIA THAILAND 500 km Pulau Tioman MYANMAR 0500 miles 2 miles 3 km 2.5 1.5 1 © Copyright Time Out Group 200 7 0.5

01 02 D

Park

A

O

R East Coas t

N

E

T

T

A

B

T

N

U

O

M

)

E

I

P

(

Y

A

W

S

S GEYLANG ROAD GEYLANG

SIMS AVENUE SIMS )

E

P

R

C

P

E

X (

E

Y

Geylang D A

N

W

A

K

L

R S

I

A

P N

A

T

D

P

S

A

A

O

O R

C

N

T

O

S

S

A

R

E

H P

Kallang

C

A

M

Y

A

W

H

G

I

H

L

L

O

C km

I

KALLANG ROAD KALLANG

N V

A

Marina 1.5 City Park

S Arab RD D E IR R L

Quarter H R F F Marina South

SERANGOON ROAD SERANGOON P O

O H A P

C C

R

O E

R

Marina 1

T

E

Little India E D

R R T

S

D

A R I

R O

O F T D

N T

E C E

C E

T M

I R C V

A

T T

S 0.5

T E

E R

T S S

P

Toa Payoh E H

S

N G

I I

R H RAFFLES QUAY RAFFLES P

District

Novena E Colonial

T

CBD 02 C

D A O R

H

A T E

SON M E

M ROAD I R

O T

H T S

T

T

I N

K E

S

U

B G

Chinatown

) N

E

T

O

C

( T

Y U

E A

W

S

S

E

D R A P

O X E M

R A

KI L D

D T A

D O R

R KIM SENG ROAD A D O E

T

A H O

A

U N

A R

O

E H

Sentosa

O

N

R C

C

R E

R L

H E

V O P

N A

A

R P

M E

A I S K

E T E H

G N T Tangli n I A U N K R D A E U E B G M I T

P I AG ASOTNESYAWET K D Orchard Road

D U A A B

O

O N R

R A H L U River Valley A A R J Park G H N

A A

D L B Mount Faber B A

G Bukit Mera h O K N R O O L I E A T T R Harbourfront

D

N

A

X

E

L

A

D

A

O

R

R

E

R

R

A F

R

O

A

A

R

D

Y

D

A

N

W A

X S

E L N A E E

U Q Y

A )

W Par k S E E EN Y E A Labrado r U U ( N Q E Y V A A W H D T S L S A A E O E R R P W X G N E O H N A A D M J A J M A N

O O

R R A

S

I C T V

A P R

R

D

D A E N

O R

N I

U AY A B

L S

L H A T

O R P

H O N Welcome to the Little Red Dot

Whatever you choose to call for, Singapore has it. As a quick Singapore – the Little Red Dot, the introduction, here are some fun Lion City (see below), or Singapour facts about its history and culture... (thanks to its humidity) – it is anything but Singabore. 1 It’s popularly believed Singapore’s These days, it’s full of passionate original name – Singapura – meaning changemakers crafting unique and ‘Lion City’ in Malay – was given when diverse experiences that are authentic the city’s 13th century founder, Sang yet inclusive. From local craft beer Nila Utama, saw a lion when he first bars to Michelin-starred restaurants, arrived on these shores. mindblowing hawker food on every corner to lush nature reserves, 2 While has won skyscrapers that defy the imagination numerous accolades for being one to dynamic global events – not to of the world’s best, it may also boast mention a growing number of creative one of the world’s most unique talents – this island crams a lot into runways. The its 720km2 space. (ECP) is an automobile expressway Whatever experience you’re looking that was designed to be converted

4 WELCOME

CHANGI AIRPORT

BUKIT TIMAH NATURE RESERVE 1 Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Curabitur into a landing strip by removing ultricies sem nec efficitur tristique. the potted plants in the middle. Etiam et nisl vehicula, tristique felis

2 Magna dignissim, mollis eros 3 The Bukit Timah Nature Reserve et, vehicula massa. Quisque at has more tree species than the whole commodo velit. In lacinia libero of North America. See p44. magna, quis

3 4 The observation Libero pharetra, suscipit nulla ac, condimentum dolor. Vestibulum arcu wheel had its direction changed a est, auctor nec semper quis, efficitur few months after the official opening, as feng shui masters believed that it 4 Ed sagittis dolor egestas. Aliquam should draw the sea water (symbolic suscipit nunc et justo molestie placerat. of wealth) into the land rather than away. See p35. 5 Suspendisse feugiat ac purus id lacinia. Nam pharetra porttitor urna 5 Singapore is one of only three sitid neque lacinia commodo.Quisque city-states in the world (the other two et being Monaco and Vatican City). SINGAPORE FLYER 6 Ridiculus mus. Duis Donec fringilla id metus nec imperdiet. Fusce

5 Introducing the Passion Tribes

Malcolm worked his way from Foodie humble line cook to his current role as chef-owner of Peranakan Malcolm Lee restaurant Candlenut. “There’s a reason why we’re called a ‘kitchen THIS MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF brigade’. When service time hits, SERVES UP A TASTER OF THE the kitchen turns into a warzone,” CITY THAT INSPIRES HIM Malcolm says. “But I love the cuts, the burns, the camaraderie.” Malcolm Lee grew up with the smell It’s not just the adrenaline of the of spices from his grandmother’s kitchen that drives his passion: to traditional Peranakan (Straits Malcolm, food is a way of creating Chinese) dishes. Today he’s one of a a deep connection with both friends handful of Singaporean chefs to have and strangers. “I believe the essence won a Michelin Star, and is constantly of Peranakan food is really about looking for ways to both preserve and people. Food is love, and I hope innovate the flavours of his youth. people can feel that.”

6 Guide

for foodies PASSION TRIBES Chef Malcolm Lee leads a trail through Singapore, peppered by his love for food and Peranakan heritage

KATONG Little India A taste of aromatic biryani (an Indian spiced rice dish with meat or vegetables) at is a fi tting way to start the day.

Mustafa Centre For bargains, pay a visit to the 24- hour . This eight- storey complex in Little India stocks everything from mobile phones to perfume and kitchen appliances.

Bukit Merah Get dinner at Keng Eng Kee, whose speciality coffee pork ribs and chilli crab are some of my favourite dishes.

Katong Laksa LITTLE INDIA Start the day with a steaming bowl of Katong Laksa.

Katong & Joo Chiat Stay to explore the Katong/Joo Chiat neighbourhood, home to iconic Peranakan architecture.

Guan Hoe Soon Restaurant Go here for a hearty, traditional Peranakan lunch. Since 1953, Guan Hoe Soon has been serving up Straits Chinese favourites.

Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Market has everything you need to cook Malay food, from fresh seafood and spices to coconut milk.

SINGAPORE ZOO

7 Explorer Subaraj Rajathurai

A WILDLIFE CONSULTANT SHARES HIS LOVE OF NATURE

Many of Singapore’s nature reserves still be more to learn,” says Subaraj, exist due to the efforts of individuals who fell in love with the rainforest at like Subaraj Rajathurai, a self-taught the age of 18, during a visit to Bukit naturalist and wildlife consultant. Timah Nature Reserve. Singapore’s Over the last 35 years, he has blend of urban landscapes and hidden campaigned behind the scenes ecosystems keeps him fighting to preserve ecosystems including against rampant urbanisation: Sungei Buloh, a mangrove forest in “In Singapore, you can get from a northwest Singapore that was slated five-star hotel to a rainforest in 20 for redevelopment by the government minutes.” You’ll find Subaraj still and is now a nature park, and the leading eco-tours around Singapore, 123.8 hectares of forest at Lower covering untamed rainforests and Peirce Reservoir. nature reserves and also urbanised “You can spend five lifetimes areas, showing how the city and exploring nature, and there would nature can co-exist.

8 Guide for

nature lovers PASSION TRIBES Subaraj Rajathurai takes you into the untamed areas of Singapore that he has fought to preserve

MacRitchie Nature Trail & Reservoir Park Head over to MacRitchie Reservoir Park, a water catchment area in the heart of Singapore. The oldest rainforest in this region is here. The diversity is amazing. If you’re lucky, SINGAPORE BOTANIC GARDENS you’ll cross paths with long-tailed macaque monkeys and flying lemurs.

Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve Spend your afternoon bird watching at Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, home to diverse inhabitants such as watersnakes, herons and otters.

Singapore Botanic Gardens Spend your evening relaxing at the Singapore Botanic Gardens. Be sure to visit the Learning Forest, a lush habitat that’s home to some of the tallest tree species in .

Pulau Ubin MACRITCHIE NATURE TRAIL & RESERVOIR PARK This island was nearly turned into industrial and housing estates. Nature co-exists with humans here. You’ll find wildlife in the fruit orchards, in the , and grey herons in its quarries.

Chek Jawa On Pulau Ubin, make your way to its southeastern hook, which is home to the Wetlands. A confluence of six natural habitats, ranging from rocky beaches to seagrass lagoons, Chek Jawa is a miniature marvel of contrasting ecosystems.

SUNGEI BULOH WETLAND

9 Collectors James Quan and Winnie Chen

GO SHOPPING IN SINGAPORE WITH TWO ARTISANS

The brainchild of founders James Winnie. “Personalisation has become Quan and Winnie Chan, Bynd Artisan a way for people to feel a sense is a traditional leather bookmaking of belonging and ownership to the business. The company’s Holland tangible things in this digital era.” atelier showcases custom As well as retail, Bynd Artisan paper and leather accessories, work with homegrown talents from providing in-shop services including different industries, reflecting the customised notebooks and leather vibrancy of the Singaporean design products. Aspiring craftspeople scene. “This interaction creates can also take part in Bynd Artisan’s sparks and provides opportunities bookbinding and leather crafting for all to expand each other’s workshops. “People today want perspectives. Bynd Artisan strives to be involved in the process of to take local creations to the global handcrafting gifts for their loved stage and rejuvenate the traditional ones, or even for personal use,” says paper and leather industry.”

10 James &

Winnie’s guide PASSION TRIBES for collectors

The founders of Bynd Artisan give their top five Singapore experiences

SENTOSA Orchard Road Home to countless local and international designers and brands, Orchard Road is where all the hustle and bustle of city life meets a shopper’s paradise. A walk down Orchard Road lets you experience the true pace and dynamism of Singapore.

Chip Bee Gardens (Bukit Timah) Chip Bee Gardens is an enclave of many local brands. The quaint location is lined with shophouses along the stretch of Jalan Merah Saga, where you can find brands such as Tiong Bahru Bakery, Ling Wu, Sunday Folks and last but not least, the Bynd Artisan flagship store.

Toa Payoh Head down to the HDB Gallery at Toa Payoh Central to take a look at Singapore’s architectural evolution, and also to

BYND ARTISAN understand more about our public housing system. Drop by a coffee shop in the vicinity for lunch or dinner to get a feel of what our heartland is like.

Sentosa For a break from shopping, you can always opt for a day on Sentosa for some outdoor fun. Universal Studios Singapore is always a highlight if you’re an adrenaline junkie!

Newton Circus Food Centre Only a stone’s throw from the city centre, Newton Circus is the hawker centre to try authentic Singapore cuisine. Must-try dishes include barbecue sambal stingray, oyster omelette, chilli crab, and carrot cake. ORCHARD ROAD

11 Socialiser Vijay Mudaliar

GO DRINKING AND DINING WITH THE OWNER OF ONE OF SINGAPORE’S BEST BARS, NATIVE

Singapore’s nightlife and bar scene and music. We want to feel closer to is diverse and booming, and Vijay home and work with other like-minded Mudaliar is one of its stars. In small-batch craftspeople.” A visit to 2017, Vijay Mudaliar’s Native bar Native promises the experience of in Chinatown made it onto the lists cocktails true to their locale, culture, of both Asia’s 50 Best Bars and the time and place. “Singapore is such World’s 50 Best Bars. “At Native, we a multicultural society with a rich work exclusively with regional produce history. One famous example of our and craftspeople,” says Vijay. “We culture is Peranakan cuisine, which is don’t stock common spirits, rather, we unique to this part of the world. Our serve local and regional liquors, such cocktail, Peranakan, is inspired by as Singaporean gin, Indian whisky and these flavours, and contains jackfruit Filipino rum. This idea extends to our rum, laksa leaves, palm sugar, furniture, aprons, ceramics, artwork candlenuts and pandan.”

12 Vijay’s

tips for PASSION TRIBES socialisers

Try one of Vijay’s favourite Singapore bars and eateries

OPERATION DAGGER Operation Dagger (Chinatown) Visit one of the World’s 50 Best Bars for forward-thinking drinks in a back-alley basement setting.

Manhattan Bar (Orchard) This 19th-century New York City- style hotel bar is hidden within the Regent Hotel Singapore, but it’s widely considered to be Asia’s best bar.

Smith Street Taps (Chinatown) Go here for local and international craft beers in a bare-bones hawker (food market) setting. Smith Street Taps alway boast an affordable, well-curated list.

Cheek by Jowl

CANDLENUT () Michelin-starred Mod-Oz comfort food at an affordable price, and in a great setting.

Candlenut (Dempsey Road) Malcolm Lee’s restaurant serves the only Michelin-starred Peranakan food in the world.

New Ubin Seafood ( & Chijmes) Visit New Ubin Seafood for Singaporean classics with a modern take, such as chilli crab and ‘heart attack fried rice’.

CHINATOWN

13 Culture shaper Jahan Loh

A CREATOR OF SINGAPOREAN POP ART IS FIRED BY THE CONTRASTS BETWEEN NEW AND TRADITIONAL, EAST AND WEST

Jahan is famous as the man who want to have regrets in my life. The turned a Ma Ling luncheon meat first two years were tough, as there tin into pop art. As the first artist to was no income.” He cites Singapore’s bring street art to galleries in both contrasting cultural landscape as one Singapore and China, Jahan has been of the key influences on his passion: credited for taking Singapore Pop Art “In Singapore, we are exposed to a international. “In 2008, I gave up all lot of different cultures so growing my safety nets and did art full time,” up, we develop that duality of East- says Jahan, a former lawyer. “I didn’t meets-West very naturally.”

14 Guide for art

aficionados PASSION TRIBES Let local artist Jahan Loh show you around the heritage sites and progressive galleries where he draws inspiration

Tiong Bahru Start at Tiong Bahru Market & Food Centre with breakfast and a stroll through

NATIONAL GALLERY SINGAPORE the fresh produce section. At the end of the street is the Qi Tian Gong Temple, which has a history dating back to 1920. Venture further southwest to join hipsters in their hunt for vinyl at Curated Records.

National Gallery Singapore Spend the rest of the afternoon at National Gallery Singapore. The architecture draws me in because it’s old meets new and East meets West. The gallery was formerly the Supreme Court Building and City Hall.

Clarke Quay In the evening, go drinking and people watching at . This nightlife KAYA TOAST hub is home to iconic club Zouk – a huge influence for me when I was growing up.

Bukit Timah Take your first cup of kopi (coffee) at the Bukit Timah Market. I have to have eight cups of kopi a day! Round the meal off with kaya (coconut jam), toast and soft- boiled eggs.

MacRitchie Nature Trail & Reservoir Park Nature is my source of inspiration, and I regularly head to MacRitchie Reservoir Park.

Singapore Botanic Gardens From travelling, I’ve come to realise that we have a lot of original, unspoilt greenery here in Singapore, and that’s something that’s underrated. CLARKE QUAY

15 Action seeker Sasha Christian

DISCOVER OUTDOOR SINGAPORE WITH A CHAMPION WATER SKIER AS YOUR GUIDE

Sasha Christian has been skimming Singaporean is one of the world’s across the warm waters of Singapore leading lights in watersports, on a since she was three years old. At just personal mission “to make the most 11 years old, Sasha claimed a bronze of every moment”. She won gold medal in wakeboarding at the Asian medals as a wakeboarder and slalom Championships in China. Accepted water skier in the 2015 Southeast into Singapore Sports School at Asian Games. the age of 13, Sasha has been fully “I hope Australians will enjoy committed to her passion ever since. discovering this island city,” says Now a multi-award winner and Sasha, “and all the culture and life an official Red Bull Athlete, this that come along with it.”

16 Sasha’s

action PASSION TRIBES seeker hitlist

PULAU UBIN Follow in Sasha Christian’s wake as she reveals her favourite Singapore hangouts

Get wet at the Singapore Wake Park The SWP has to be the first on my list! It’s located in , a long and lively stretch along the southeastern coast of Singapore. I head down there once a week to cable wakeboard. Wakeboarding is a great sport to try if you like excitement and don’t mind getting wet.

Take a TreeTop Walk I always recommend the TreeTop Walk in MacRitchie Nature Trail & Reservoir Park to anyone who enjoys being immersed in nature. The loop SINGAPORE WAKE PARK route can take up to five hours, but the satisfaction felt upon reaching the suspension bridge makes every step worthwhile.

Explore Pulau Ubin by bike For a more down-to-earth experience, head to Changi Point Ferry Terminal and catch a bumboat to Pulau Ubin, which is a small island just off Singapore. I love exploring the island by bicycle.

Make a trip down to the Sports Hub (Kallang) There are lots of things to do at the Sports Hub – it’s where you can find a skate park, a waterpark, major sporting events, a rock climbing wall and lots more.

TREETOP WALK

17 Coronation

Bukit Timah Rd Rd Chancery Ln Upper Rd Thomson Rd West Rd

Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Heartlands Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr

Still rd Newton Changi Rd Singapore by Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Serangoon Rd Rd Stevens Rd Sims Ave Rd Newton Flyover Holland Farrer Rd neighbourhood Stevens Rd Holland Flyover Guillemard Rd Scotts Rd Geylang Rd

Jin Besar Cluny Holland Rd Dempsey Hill Bukit Dunman Rd

Rd Commonwealth Timah Rd

Queensway Crawford St Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Victoria St Tanjong Ave Scotts Rd Kallang Paya

Rd

Bras Basah & Bugis (P20) Katong Rd

Besar Bideford Jin Souvenirs and museums Rd Amber Rd

Tanglin Lebar Expy Lebar Orchard Rd Rochor Rd Paterson Rd Mountbatten Rd Orchard Road Ophir Rd Ave Penang Rd Mountbatten Republic Rd Commonwealth Grange Rd Chinatown (P22) Grange Rd Republic

Ophir Rd

Chinese culture and hidden bars Blvd

River Valley Rd Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll Beach Rd Clarke Quay (P24) Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Nightlife and restaurants Raffles Blvd Queensway Ave Queenstown Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave

Alexandra Rd

Dempsey Hill (P26) Zion Rd Outram Outram Tiong BahruRd ClarkeHavelock Rd Quay

Cafés, galleries, colonial chic Delta Rd

Church Lower Chin Swee Rd St Jin Bukit Merah Cross St Kampong Glam (P28) Rd Malay-Arab culture, hip boutiques Delta Jin Bukit Merah

Henderson Rd Lower

Katong & Joo Chiat (P30) u Dr Cantonment Bahr

Shenton Way

Kampong Peranakan heritage and food Alexandra Rd Delta Rd West Coast Highway Rd

Lower ChinatownRobinson Rd Little India & (P32) Henderson Rd Keppel Rd West Coast Indian food and Hindu temples Highway Rd/Keppel Viaduct

Marina Bay (P34) West Coast Highway Futuristic architecture and

attractions eS

Orchard Road (P36) otn

etaG as

w a

Shopping and gardens y Sentosa Sentosa (P38) Beach resorts and family fun Singapore

Tiong Bahru (P40) Art Deco charm

Heartlands (P42) Host of hidden gems

18 Coronation

Bukit Timah Rd Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Thomson Rd West Rd

Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Moulmein Rd

Timah Rd Rd Aljunied Dunearn Rd Heartlands Rd Thomson Rd Bishan Toa Payoh Sims Ave Farrer Rd Little India & Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd Jalan Besar

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Serangoon Rd Rd Stevens Rd Sims Ave Rd Newton Flyover Holland Farrer Rd Stevens Rd Holland Flyover Guillemard Rd Scotts Rd Geylang Rd

Katong & Joo Chiat AREA GUIDES Jin Besar Cluny Holland Rd

Bukit Dunman Rd

Rd Commonwealth Timah Rd

Queensway Crawford St Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Kampong Glam Victoria St Tanjong Ave Scotts Rd Kallang Paya

Rd

Katong Rd Rochor

Besar Bideford

Rd Jin Amber Rd

Tanglin Lebar Expy Lebar Orchard Rd Rochor Rd Paterson Rd Mountbatten Rd Orchard Road Bras Basah Ophir Rd Ave Penang Rd Mountbatten Republic Rd Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd & Bugis Republic

Ophir Rd Blvd

River Valley Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll Beach Rd Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave

Alexandra Rd

Zion Rd Outram Outram Tiong BahruRd ClarkeHavelock Rd Quay

Delta Rd

Church Lower Chin Swee Rd St Jin Bukit Merah Cross St Rd

Delta

Jin Bukit Merah

Henderson Rd Lower

Cantonment Bahru Dr

Shenton Way

Kampong Alexandra Rd Delta Rd West Coast Highway Rd

Lower ChinatownRobinson Rd Henderson Rd Keppel Rd West Coast Highway

Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct Marina Bay

West Coast Highway

eS

otn

etaG as

w

a y Sentosa Singapore

19 Bras Basah & Bugis

NEW BUGIS STREET, BEACH ROAD, NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SINGAPORE AND THE NATIONAL GALLERY SINGAPORE QUEEN STREET

Once known for its raucous nightlife, Design Centre 3 (111 Middle Rd, today the Bugis Street district pulses designsingapore.org), where year- with a different energy. Gone are round design-centric exhibitions the roadside stalls and impromptu and events are held. It’s also home performances; it’s now filled with to Keepers (#01-01, keepers. shopping malls, museums and a studio), which stocks a tightly jumble of creative spaces. curated collection of Singapore’s best Replacing the bars and live music designers and artists. For a Singapore action at Bugis Street 1 (3 New memento, drop into Supermama 4 Bugis St, bugisstreet.com.sg) is a (265 Beach Rd, supermama.sg) to covered market of ad-hoc stalls selling pick up one of their beautiful blue-and- cheap trinkets, souvenirs and street white porcelain plates emblazoned food. Across the street, the Bugis with uniquely Singaporean icons – the Junction Mall 2 (200 Victoria St, Singapore Flyer, the Merlion or even bugisjunction-mall.com.sg), with HDB (Housing Development Board) its four fl oors of shopping, food, and fl ats. In the vicinity is National a movie theatre, is a popular spot Gallery Singapore 5 (1 St Andrew’s for teens. Nearby lies the National Rd, nationalgallery.sg), which boasts

20 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Newton Flyover 7 1 Holland Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 3 5 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd Baboo Ln 8 Tembeling Rd Hindoo Rd Bukit 2 Dunman Rd

Rd Joo Chiat Rd Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Commonwealth Race Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6

Queensway 1 AREA GUIDES Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd 7 Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 11 East Coast Rd 4 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd Sungei Rd 6 1 Rd Katong Rd 10 8 Harding Rd 5 4 CHIJMES BUGIS STREET 2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar Jin Pinang Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd 3 Aliwal St 1

Tanglin Kandahar St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar R R Pahang St 4 Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 10 9 Penang Rd 1 8 10 Mountbatten S 1 Beach Rd Republic R Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd 2 Grange Rd Republic

S 3 3 R S 8 S S Blvd 6 R S River Valley Rd R Tanjong Rhu Flyover 6 5 ATLAS 7 9

9 Tanglin Rd Kim Seng Rd a view of the Padang and houses your appetite to nose-to-tail eatery River Valley Rd the world’s largest public display of Salted and Hung 8 (12 PurvisRaffles St, Blvd Singaporean and South East Asian saltedandhung.com.sg), helmed Queensway Ave art. For a more historic understanding by HillBrisbane-born St Drew Nocente. tsdown Alexandra Rd of the Little Red Dot, the National For modern Chinese flavours with Por Portsdown Ganges Ave Museum of Singapore 6 (93 a theatrical twist, there’s Madame 9 4 Stamford Rd, nationalmuseum.sg) Fan (32 Beach Rd, madamefan. Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd charts the development of modern-day sg) by Alan Yau of Hakkasan fame at Singapore and entertains young and the NCO Club, for elevated standards Havelock Rd Rd old with multimedia exhibits. such as crispy aromatic duck served The area is no slouch when it comes with kaluga caviar, and jasmine Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd Delta to dining out. Why not start at the tea-smoked pork ribs. To end the

Outram 10 ECP

Tiong Bahru St place where the wedding in Crazy Rich night, grab a drink at Atlas (600 Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St 7 Rd Asians was filmed?CHIJMES (30 North Bridge Rd, Parkview Square, Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St Victoria St, .com.sg) is a atlasbar.sg). If its opulent Art Deco Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd historic Neoclassical buildingCross Sthousing interiors don’t make an impression, 4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd over 25 restaurants spanning Asian, the extensive drinks menu and floor- Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd European andKampong American cuisine. Bring to-ceiling gin tower will. 6 3 Trengganu St 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 21 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

1

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Chinatown

AWARD-WINNING EATS, , AMOY STREET AND BUDDHA TOOTH RELIC TEMPLE

While it may seem strange to have Temple 1 (288 South Bridge Rd, a Chinatown in a country with a btrts.org.sg) that reportedly holds predominently Chinese population, a tooth of the Buddha. Venture to Singapore has given this district its the rooftop for a panoramic view own twist: transforming the heritage of the area. Down the street is the neighbourhood into a hip enclave of Sri Mariamman Temple 2 (244 chic restaurants and bars in renovated South Bridge Rd, smt.org.sg), pre-war shophouses. This old-meets- Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple, new vibe is exactly what keeps locals, built in 1827 with a five-tier gopuram expats and tourists intrigued, and the (gatehouse tower). While you’re nexus of and Ann Siang there swing by the Chinatown Road closed to vehicle traffi c every Heritage Centre 3 (48 Pagoda Friday and Saturday from 7pm to 2am. St, chinatownheritagecentre.com. Modern attractions aside, the area’s sg) and get the backstory on how cultural and historical content is a Chinatown came to be (clue: it big reason to visit. Few places allow has something to do with Sir you to explore several different faiths ). in a couple of hours on foot. Start at One of best areas to eat and drink, the majestic Buddha Tooth Relic Ang Siang Hill always has

22 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd

5 Joo Chiat Terrace Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd 7 Newton Flyover Joo Chiat Ln Holland 7 Lor Mambong Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 3 Ceylon Rd 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln 6 Teng Tong Rd 3 5 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd 4 Duku Rd Baboo Ln Tembeling Rd Hindoo Rd Bukit 2 Dunman Rd

Rd Joo Chiat Rd Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Commonwealth Race Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd Timah Rd 2 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Buffalo Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Serangoon Rd 3 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd Dempsey Rd 5 Dickson Rd Tanjong 10 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar 12 2 Scotts Rd Kallang Paya East Coast Rd

Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 1 11 1 3 Sungei Rd Perak Rd Katong Rd 6 Harding Rd 5 9 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 7 13 8 4 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Pinang 2 Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd Aliwal St

Tanglin 1 Kandahar4 St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link 3 Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd Bali5 Ln Ave 7 Ophir Rd 7Haji Lane Baghdad St Penang Rd 8 1 9 6 Mountbatten Prinsep St 8Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd AREA GUIDES River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd River Vallery Rd

Queensway SMITH STREET JUNCTION Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown a good vibe going on. There you’ll North Bridge Rd Ganges Ave find 2018 Bib Gourmand awardee N 4 Coconut Club (6 Ann Siang Hill, St Andrew’s Rd 4 thecoconutclub.sg), arguably the Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd city’s best plate of nasi lemak (Malay dish of rice and chicken). At nearby Connaught Dr Operation Dagger 5 (#B1-01, 7 Ann Siang Hill, operationdagger. Havelock Rd Rd com), Melbournian Luke Whearty 3 and his team push the boundaries of MAXWELL FOOD CENTRE conventional cocktail recipes. Equally Esplanade Dr Marina Bay Zion Rd experimental is Native 6 (52A Amoy Food Centre 9 (1 Kadayanallur Delta St, tribenative.com), where Asian St) has a Michelin star, there’s a 2018

Outram ECP Tiong Bahru St spirits enjoy top billing and owner/ Bib Gourmand winner Tian Tian bartender Vijay Mudaliar employs Chicken Rice (#01-10), the perfectly Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower everything from ants to matcha to fried Maxwell Fuzhou Oyster Cake Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St make your tipple. At Tippling Club 7 (#01-05) and Zhen Zhen Porridge

Seng Poh Ln (38 Rd, tipplingclub. (#01-54) for silky smooth congee. 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd com), the ‘edible cocktail’ menu (think 4 Watt St 7 booze-spiked gummy bears) almost S R S 3 Guan Chuan St 3 S Rd outshines the modern gastronomy. S S Gardens 2 For an early dinner, camp out at newly 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd 6 Michelin-Starred Burnt Ends 8 (20 by the Bay Delta Teck Lim Rd, burntends.com.sg) 22 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd till it opens its doors. This could be S 3 S S A S R 5 the only way to ensure a bar-counter S R4 1 E R 5 A R S 4 1 Jin Bukit Merah S R 1 spot to see Perth native Dave Pynt 8 8 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower and team turn out perfectly grilled Marina Mall meats and veggies from a dual-cavity 9 Marina Gardens R 7 6 oven. And while no stall at Maxwell S Bayfront Ave R 23

Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

1

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Clarke Quay

SINGAPORE RIVER, HERITAGE EATS AND AN ARRAY OF NIGHTLIFE OPTIONS

Named after Sir Andrew Clarke, the taste of its Teochew-style pork-rib governor of the Straits Settlements soup with just a hint of pepper and from 1873 to 1875, the eye-catching star anise, served in a 1960s-style Clarke Quay enclave is part of the coffeeshop. If you prefer to be in historic . What the heart of the action, book a table was once an area of warehouses at Violet Oon Satay Bar & Grill has evolved into a lively precinct 2 (#01-18, 3B River Valley Rd, known for its nightlife, leading-edge violetoon.com), where the humble restaurants and live music venues. chargrilled satay has been elevated Best experienced after the sun goes by the doyenne of Singapore’s food down, a key feature of Clarke Quay – scene. Restaurant Ibid 3 (18 North its futuristic roof equipped with Canal Rd, restaurantibid.com) huge fans – ensures that walking is the chic venue for MasterChef around here is a pleasant (and Asia winner Woo Wai Leong’s less humid) experience. Modern Chinese cuisine. The 6- Before hitting the clubs, venture to and 9-course tasting menus have 2018 Bib Gourmand awardee Song included Japanese tiger prawn with Fa 1 (11 New Bridge Shaoxing emulsion and lamb neck Rd, #01-01, songfa.com.sg) for a tenderloin with burnt cream, fennel

24 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd

5 Joo Chiat Terrace Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd 7 Newton Flyover Joo Chiat Ln Holland 7 Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 Ceylon Rd 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln 6 Teng Tong Rd 3 5 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd 4 Duku Rd Baboo Ln Tembeling Rd Hindoo Rd Bukit 2 Dunman Rd

Rd Joo Chiat Rd Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Commonwealth Race Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd Timah Rd 2 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Buffalo Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Serangoon Rd 3 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd Dempsey Rd 5 Dickson Rd Tanjong 10 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar 12 2 Scotts Rd Kallang Paya East Coast Rd

Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 1 11 1 3 Sungei Rd Perak Rd Katong Rd 6 Harding Rd 5 9 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 7 13 8 4 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Pinang 2 Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd Aliwal St

Tanglin 1 Kandahar4 St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link 3 Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd Bali5 Ln Ave 7 Ophir Rd 7Haji Lane Baghdad St Penang Rd 8 1 9 6 Mountbatten Prinsep St 8Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St AREA GUIDES Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover SONG FA BAK KUT TEH ZOUK Highway

Tanglin Rd R Nicoll Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd R Raffles Blvd 5 R Queensway S Ave 2 tsdown Alexandra Rd 4 6 Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 7 S A R Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd D 1

Rd

E D CRAZY ELEPHANT R Marina Bay Zion Rd 3

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Lim Liak St Tiong Bahru Rd Rd Lower and Szechuan peppercorn. Ultra- Sundays (from 10pm), any musician Eng Hoon St S R S

Seng Poh Ln 4 popular5 3venue Attica (#01-03, is welcome to show off their skills Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd S 4 Watt St 7 3A River Valley Rd, attica.com. at their S regular Sunday jam session. Guan Chuan St 8 S Rd Smith St Gardens 2 sg), which opened back in 2004, is For Latin groovesMohamed Ln and a killer Mojito, 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd 6 a stylish institution that has hosted Cuba R 6Libre9 Café & Bar 6 (#01-13, by the Bay Delta Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Sago Ln some of the world’s biggest DJs Block B RiverAnn Siang RdValley4 Rd, cubalibre. 1 SouthErskine Bridge Rd Rd Kreta Ayer Rd Spring St Jin Bukit Merah Keong Saik Rd Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower and is known for its amazing ladies’ com.sg) is the place to be, with live night deals. Lovers of R&B and chart- Latin music sets and impromptu Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd 7 Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave toppers should visit Level 1, but if salsa sessions.Maxwell Rd you’re more of a house, progressive, No visit to Singapore (and Clarke Dr

or trance type of person, then headCantonment Quay) would be complete without a to Level 2. Laidback Crazy Elephant night out at Zouk 7 (TheRobinson Cannery, Rd 5 (#01-03/04, 3E River Valley Rd, 3C River Valley Rd, zoukclub.com)Shenton Way .

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd crazyelephant.sg) is worth a pit The legendary superclub, deemed one stop for its live blues and rock’n’roll.Rd of Asia’s top dance clubs by DJ Mag,

Lower Visiting international musicians such is always pushing the boundaries of as REM, Robbie Williams and Deep electronic dance music with a roster Purple have been known to perform of international and local DJs on Henderson Rd West Coast here spontaneouslyKeppel when Rd in town. On deck, plus the popular theme Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct 25

West Coast Highway

1

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Dempsey Hill GORGEOUS CAFÉS, THE FIRST MICHELIN-STARRED PERANAKAN RESTAURANT, ANTIQUE SHOPS AND SPECIALITY BARS

This leafy enclave a stone’s throw menu (lunch or dinner), where chef from the Botanic Garden feels a world Malcom Lee leads diners through apart from the hustle and bustle of the flavours and nuances of this downtown Singapore. What was once beloved cuisine. Situated in the British army barracks in colonial times next block is Dover Street Market has been converted into a collection Singapore 2 (Blk 18 Dempsey of upscale eateries, boutiques, art Rd, doverstreetmarket.com), a galleries and antiques sellers. retail magnet filled with hip fashion Renowned for its black pepper curated by Comme des Garçons crab, Long Beach 1 (25 Dempsey designer Rei Kawakubo. Zero in on Rd, longbeachseafood.com.sg) is the exclusive-to-Singapore collection an award-winning seafood restaurant that has included tie-ups with Gucci, where portions are famously huge. Nike and Anti Social Social Club. Candlenut (Blk 17A Dempsey Rd, The ever reliable PS.Café 3 (28B comodempsey.sg/restaurant/ Harding Rd, pscafe.com) makes for candlenut) offers refined Straits a relaxing brunch spot as you settle in Chinese cuisine in a modern colonial- to admire the lush green surroundings style setting. Order the Ah-Ma-Kase from their air-conditioned dining

26 Coronation

Bukit Timah Rd Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd AREA GUIDES Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunear Geylang Rd

PS.CAFÉ Balmoral Rd

5 Joo Chiat Terrace n Rd Tessensohn Rd Holland room. Eggs benedict and the signature burger never disappoint; Geylang Rd Rd save space for dessert. Another Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave verdant dining spot is Open Farm Community 4 (130E Minden Rd, Rd 7 openfarmcommunity.com), where Newton Flyover Joo Chiat Ln Holland 7 Lor Mambong Farrer Rd organic farm-to-table cooking is the Stevens Rd 7 3 focus, with much of the menu foraged Ceylon Rd 5 2 mia Jin Ru Holland Flyover from its own garden. 4 6 1 Dempsey Hill is also home to Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap art galleries and antiques shops. Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Saga Kinte Rd 8 Standouts include Woody Antique Geylang Rd Race Course Ln 6 5 CANDLENUT Teng Tong Rd House (#01-05, Blk 13, Dempsey 3 5 Jin Besar Rd, woodyantique.com), stocked Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd with Burmese teakwood pieces and and Burma. Art lovers can easily while Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd 4 Duku Rd refurbished Indian doors. There’s also the day away at Red Sea Gallery 7 Baboo Ln Tembeling Rd Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd Shang Antique 6 (#01-03, Blk 26, (Blk 9, Dempsey Rd, redseagallery. Bukit 2 Rd Joo Chiat Rd Dempsey Rd, shangantique.com. com) browsing their ceramics, Chander Rd 8 4 Commonwealth sg), which specialises in antiques sculptures, paintings and glass Race Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd sourced from Vietnam, Laos, Thailand works from Vietnam, Indonesia, Timah Rd 2 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd India and New Zealand. Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd D Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd R Wind down for the day at 3 Queensway RedDot 1 8 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Brewhouse (#01-01, 25A Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd 8 1 Dickson Rd Tanjong D R Dempsey Rd, reddotbrewhouse. 6 4 Crawford St Ave 6 4 Dunlop St com.sg), an independent local Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 2 East Coast Rd 2 9 microbrewery. For gin lovers there’s the Rabbit Hole 9 (39C Harding Rd Clive St 1 D R 10 55 Rd, thewhiterabbit.com.sg) while 3 Sungei Rd Perak Rd 3 Maduro 10 (40C Harding Rd, Lvl 3) Katong Rd R offers wine, whisky, classic cocktails, 5 7 7 D R live jazz and classical music in an Jin Sultan R Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd elegant lounge setting. Jin Besar 2 Jin Pinang 2 Rd Amber Rd Aliwal St 27

Tanglin 1 Kandahar4 St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link 3 Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd Bali5 Ln Ave 7 Ophir Rd 7Haji Lane Baghdad St Penang Rd 8 1 9 6 Mountbatten Prinsep St 8Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Eng Watt St Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

1

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Kampong Glam

SULTAN MOSQUE, AND HIPSTER CULTURE ON HAJI LANE SULTAN MOSQUE

Next to the Bugis area lies the Malay/ Sultan Mosque 2 (3 Muscat St, Arab quarter of Singapore, Kampong sultanmosque.sg). Built in 1824, Glam, pronounced ‘Kum-pong Glum’ it’s also known as Masjid Sultan and and named after the gelam trees that easily identified by its two giant gold grew in the area (‘kampong’ in Malay domes. The mass prayer hall can hold means ‘village’). A site of historic up to 5,000 visitors, and guided tours signifi cance, it was the land given by Sir are given, but it’s best to call ahead Stamford Raffl es to Sultan Husain Shah to ensure availability. to build his palace after he relinquished For a taste of Malay fine dining, the island to the Brits. To learn more Mamanda 3 (73 Sultan Gate, about life of Singapore’s Malay mamanda.com.sg) is housed in community before the British arrived in a mansion built in 1840 that was 1819, the Malay Heritage Centre 1 once home to Tengku Mahmud, (85 Sultan Gate, malayheritage.org. heir apparent to the Sultan’s throne. sg) depicts it through six permanent Fittingly, the dish to order is nasi galleries, historical artefacts and ambeng, a celebratory Javanese dish interactive multimedia works. of different meats and vegetables The heart and soul of the area, like beef rendang (spicy meat dish) however, lies with the iconic and sambal goreng (fried chilli paste)

28 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd

5 Joo Chiat Terrace Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd 7 Newton Flyover Joo Chiat Ln Holland 7 Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 Ceylon Rd 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln 6 Teng Tong Rd 3 5 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd 4 Duku Rd Baboo Ln Tembeling Rd Hindoo Rd Bukit 2 Dunman Rd

Rd Joo Chiat Rd Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Commonwealth Race Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd Timah Rd 2 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Buffalo Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Serangoon Rd 3 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 11 East Coast Rd 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 1 Sungei Rd AREA GUIDES 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd HAJI LANE S 9 Bideford S 2 Jin Besar R Loewen Rd Rd 11 Amber Rd 3 A S

3 2 S Tanglin 4

4 S S G 5 Expy Lebar Rochor Rd 5 S Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd A S Mountbatten Rd 7 Ave 9 6 R6 S 7 8 Penang Rd 8 1 Mountbatten R Prinsep St 1010 PIEDRA NEGRA Republic Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd Grange Rd 3 served in a dulang (tray) with rice. For Haji Ln, shopcraftassembly.com) Commonwealth a more casual meal, Rumah Makan is a one-stop shop for handcrafted

Grange Rd Minang 4 (18 & 18A Kandahar St, items and vintageRepublic apparel. Drunken minang.sg) serves reasonably priced Balloon 7 (84 Haji Ln) is a treasure Minangkabau cuisine from West trove of party supplies, boardgames, Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd and specialises in dishesOphir like Rd retro memorabilia and novelty gifts tahu telur (fried tofu with eggs and – look out for the lively red and Waterloo St vegetables) and ayam belado merah orange balloon sculptures above Victoria6 St (red chilli marinated chicken). For a the shopfront. Also worth a look is 4 Queen St sweet treat, pop into Rich and Good DulcetfigBlvd 8 (41 Haji Ln), stocked Cake Shop 5 (24 Kandahar St) with independent fashion brands, North Bridge St for soft, eggy, old-style Swiss rolls vintage threads and eco-friendly available in flavours like kaya, brands. For a bite to eat, amble down durian and mango. to Going Om 9 (63 Haji Ln, going- River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd A few streets over is the vibrant om.com.sg), a café-bar that hosts Haji Lane stretch, a laneway of yoga classes and nightly live music, Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highwayindependent boutiques, vintage or to Piedra Negra 10 (241 Beach shops and cafés with eye-catching Rd, blujazcafe.net) for Mexican street murals. Craft Assembly 6 (61 comfort food and ice-cold Margaritas.

Tanglin Rd Nicoll 29

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

1

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Katong & Joo Chiat

EAST COAST ROAD, , TRADITIONAL EATS AND PERANAKAN CULTURE PERANAKAN SHOPHOUSES

Chances are you’ve seen Joo Chiat’s gravy and lashings of meat), Dong Ji colourful Peranakan shophouses on Fried Kway Teow (#01-138), helmed . This charming area in the by the same hawker for the past 40 East of Singapore is as quaint as it years, and Albert Street Prawn gets. With a melting pot of cultures Noodle (#01-10), with its signature – from Malay and Indian to Chinese semi-sweet pork and prawn broth. and Peranakan (descendants of Much of the area’s allure lies with early Chinese migrants who settled the pastel-hued Peranakan houses in the Southeast Asian region, inter- on Koon Seng Road 2 . While marrying with local ) – this they’re private residences, you can neighbourhood offers many insights get a decent look at the fl oral tiles into the tale of Singapore. and original shutters that decorate Before venturing into the Katong the arcades, some dating back to the and Joo Chiat area proper, start at 1920s. To learn more about the Straits Old Airport Road Food Centre 1 Chinese, book a tour at The Intan 3 (51 Old Airport Rd), where a bevy of (69 Joo Chiat Tce, the-intan.com), a tasty hawker treats awaits. Standout haven of Peranakan antiques including stalls include Xin Mei Xiang Lor a century-old bridal bed and more Mee (#01-116) for a bowl of lor mee than 100 embroidered wedding shoes. (noodles served in a thick starchy The Eurasian Heritage Centre 4

30 AREA GUIDES

KATONG LAKSA

KIM CHOO KUEH CHANG

Coronation (139 Ceylon Rd, eurasians.org.sg)

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd traces the genealogy of Eurasian-Asian Rd Thomson Rd West Rd families and recounts the community’s experience during the Japanese Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Occupation in World War II. The in- Coronation house restaurant is famed for the best PERANAKAN BEADED SLIPPERS Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied devil curry (with candlenuts, galangal 8 Rd Thomson Rd and vinegar) on the island. Kueh ChangSims Ave (109 East Coast Rd, For foodies, the Katong and Joo Chiat kimchoo.com) sells handwrapped rice

Farrer Rd Sims Dr stretch is a little slice of heaven. Some dumplings and traditional nonya kuehStill rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd of the best popiah (spring rolls) can (bite-size cakes). For an Aussie-slanted Sims Ave Dunearn Rd be found at Kway Guan Huat JooGeylang Rdbrekky, Firebake 9 (237 East Coast Balmoral Rd 3 Chiat Popiah 5 (54 Joo Chiat Pl, Rd) has Cheesymites:Joo Chiat cheese Terrace and Tessensohn Rd joochiatpopiah.com); on weekends Vegemite in sourdough buns. Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave (8.30-11am) they hold demonstrations on how the skin is made. Bib Gourmand 5 Rd Newton Flyover 7 3 Holland Lor Mambong Farrer Rd awardee 328 Katong Laksa 6 (51 Stevens Rd 7 3 R 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 East Coast Rd, 328katonglaksa. 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd com) is a favourite for their top-secret, 4 8 Geylang Rd 4 Race Course Ln S R 1 2 R 3 5 Jin Besar coconut-rich laksa gravy. Peranakan1 2 Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd D R Rowell Rd restaurant Glory Catering 7 (139 Northumberland Rd D R Baboo Ln R Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd Bukit 2 East Coast Rd, glorycatering.com. Rd R Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Commonwealth Race Course Rd sg) has been in business since 1954 9 Timah Rd R 8 Veerasamy Rd R Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd and is famous for its Assam head Dempsey Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd Chitty Rd R Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd curry and kueh pie ti (crisp pastry shell R Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 7 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya filled with thinly sliced vegetables 11 89 E 6 7 Rd Clive St 6 Dempsey Rd and prawns). The ornate Kim Choo Sungei Rd 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5 2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 31 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Loewen Rd Rd Pinang Amber Rd 3 Aliwal St 1

Tanglin Kandahar St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 7 9 Penang Rd 8 8 1 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St

4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

1

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Little India & Jalan Besar

SERANGOON ROAD, RACE COURSE ROAD AND THE UP-AND-COMING JALAN BESAR NEIGHBOURHOOD

One of the most vibrant areas in reality exhibits. Tekka Centre 2 Singapore, Little India’s bustling (665 Buffalo Rd) – a wet market, streets are a pleasant assault on the hawker centre and tailoring hub – is senses. Once a district designated the place to people watch and to eat for Indian immigrants, the area has like the locals do. If in doubt, choose remained largely unchanged with its authentic Indian favourites like briyani, gold merchants, garland shops and thosai and murtabak. Nearby, Banana rows of colourful sari materials for Leaf Apolo 3 (54 Race Course Rd, sale. While it’s best experienced during thebananaleafapolo.com) serves festivals such as Pongal (celebrating South and North Indian dishes like the harvest) and Deepavali (Hindu light fi sh head curry the traditional way, on festival), the area never disappoints. a freshly cut banana leaf. There’s also The four-storey Indian Heritage MTR (Mavalli Tiffin Rooms) 4 (438 Centre 1 (5 Campbell Ln, Serangoon Rd, mavallitiffinrooms. indianheritage.org.sg) with its com), another heritage eatery serving facade inspired by the baoli (or Indian vegetarian meals since 1924 and stepwell) offers visitors the backstory known for their soft, steamed idils of the Indian community in Singapore (semolina cakes). For something through audio guides and augmented different, Meatsmith Little India 5

32 Coronation

Bukit Timah Rd Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave AREA GUIDES Rd Newton Flyover 7 1 Holland Lor Mambong Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 4 6 1 R Guillemard Rd 6 TEKKA MARKET Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah R 8 Geylang Rd R Teng Tong Rd 6 Jin Besar R 6 4 Cluny R 7 8 Dunman Rd R R R Duku Rd R 8 Tembeling Rd 3 R Dunman Rd 3 8 Rd Joo Chiat Rd Holland Rd R 11 Commonwealth R Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 R Ceylon Rd 3 R R R Dempsey Rd Marshall Rd S R R 6 Queensway R Rd 1010 9 Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd U R 7 Dempsey Rd 2 D R Tanjong 5 2 Crawford St Ave D S 9 Scotts Rd Kallang Paya East Coast Rd 11 11 7 4 Rd S Dempsey Rd BANANA LEAF APOLO MUSTAFA CENTRE R 5 6 1 S R Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd (21 Campbell Ln, meatsmith.com. coffee paraphernalia on-site. Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar sg) does barbecue-style dishes with an If beer is more2 your thing, Druggists Jin Loewen Rd Rd Pinang Amber Rd 3 8 Aliwal St Indian twist; pork ribs with a coconut (119 Tyrwhitt Rd, facebook/ 1

Tanglin Kandahar St

Muscat St Sultan Gate chutney; and a biryani-stuffed suckling DruggistsSG) has 23 craft brews on Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd pig. No visit to Little India is complete tap – IPAs and sour beers by Mikkeller. Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave without a visit to Mustafa Centre 6 At the famous Laksa 9 Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 7 9 Penang Rd (145 Syed Alwi Rd, mustafa.com.sg). (Blk 27 Jalan Berseh, #01-100) you 8 8 1 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St Open 24 hours, it sells everything from can slurp down a bowl of this uniquely Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd Commonwealth Grange Rd clothing to electronics to jewellery and Singapore dish that’s specially cooked

Grange Rd spices; it also has a rooftop restaurant. over charcoal for just S$3. Vintage Republic Within walking distance is the up- hunters can drop in at Loop Garms 10 Bencoolen St and-coming Jalan Besar area, withBras Basah(635 Rd Veerasamy Rd, #01-148, Ophir Rd its coffeeshops and trendy stores. @loopgarmsWaterloo St ), aVictoria ‘vintage/new/used6 St Housed in a former hardware store, clothing4 Queen store’ St with a vast collection Blvd Chye Seng Huat Hardware 7 (150 of pre-2000 streetwear.North AndBridge Stdon’t miss River Valley Rd Tyrwhitt Rd, cshhcoffee.com) is Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 11 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover where you’ll find a decent flat white. (141 Serangoon Rd, srivkt.org), Highway There’s also a roaster, coffee school Little India’s most popular Hindu and retail space selling all sorts of temple, completed in 1881.

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd 33 Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

1

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Marina Bay

INIMITABLE WATERFRONT ARCHITECTURE, THE MERLION AND THE FUTURISTIC

The awe-inspiring Marina Bay all in from above: be it at the SkyPark area is testament to the country’s and its 200m high observation deck, determination to make an impression the 57th floor Cé La Vi or Lavo while on the global stage. What was once enjoying cocktails at sunset, or if an actual bay has been transformed you’re staying inhouse, waist deep into the city’s most modern precinct in their infinity pool. Closer to ground, with skyscrapers, the arresting Marina the shopping centre is open till Bay Sands trio of buildings and a 11pm daily, while the brand new futuristic garden with supertrees. Marquee Nightclub features an 1 (1 Bayfront indoor and big-name Ave, marinabaysands.com) DJs. There’s an array of celebrity chef dominates the bay with its three restaurants (Cut by Wolfgang Puck, sky-high towers supporting what db Bistro by Daniel Boulud, Waku looks like an oversized surfboard. As Ghin by Tetsuya Wakuda) and new impressive as it is to view the building additions like modern Chinese eatery from afar – particularly from Collyer Chinoiserie and NYC’s Black Tap’s Quay’s Caffe Fernet 2 (70 Collyer craft burgers and unicorn milkshakes. Quay, caffefernet.sg) with a frosé in The on-site ArtScience Museum 3 hand – it’s more impressive to take it (6 Bayfront Ave) has exhibitions on

34 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Newton Flyover 1 Holland Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 2 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 4 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd Baboo Ln 8 Tembeling Rd Bukit Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd 3 Rd Joo Chiat Rd Holland Rd Chander Rd Commonwealth Race5 Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd 7 Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 11 East Coast Rd 7 4 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 6 8 Sungei Rd 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Loewen Rd Rd Pinang Amber Rd 3 Aliwal St 1

Tanglin Kandahar St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 7 9 Penang Rd 8 8 1 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blv

Queensway Ave Hill St d tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 7 Raffles Ave 4 Alexandra Rd 4

Esplanade Dr Havelock Rd Rd Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram 66 ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower

Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St AREA GUIDES

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Fullerton Rd Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 Watt St 7 5 Bahru Dr 1 5 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St 2 Rd Smith St 2 Mohamed Ln 2 2 Gardens 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong Trengganu St 1 6 3 5 by the Bay Delta Chin Swee Rd 6 Club St 1 Chay Yan St Club St e Sago Ln Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 Keong Saik Rd 3 Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marin 3 Lower SINGAPORE FLYER Henderson Rd 4 9 a Blvd Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Av Maxwell Rd

Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

GARDENS BY THE BAY

art and science. The structure alone 50m-high behemoth with a restaurant – some describe it as an open hand, in its upper branches. Free-to-enter others as a blooming lotus flower – is themed gardens showcase tropical

1 w eta G a s otn e S

ya worth an Instagram post. From there, horticulture and garden artistry, Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk stroll across the with along with two armadillo-shaped Rd Gateway Ave its DNA-like design, best enjoyed in conservatories – the Flower Dome Siloso Rd

Rd the evening when it’s illuminated. and the Cloud Forest, veiled in mist 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave Close by, the Singapore Flyer 4 and containing the world’s largest Beach (30 Raffles Ave, singaporeflyer. indoor waterfall. 4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave com) offers a 360-degree view of On the other side of the bay sits the the skyline from 165 metres up. 6 (1 Fullerton Rd),

The futuristic Gardens7 by the easily identified by the 8.6-metre tall 8 Allanbrooke RdBay 5 (18 Marina Gardens Dr, merlion (half-lion, half-fish). Next gardensbythebay.org.sg) has 18 to the Merlion is Singapore’s main ‘Supertrees’. Vertical gardens up to performing arts centre, Esplanade – 16 storeys in height, they’re designed Theatres on the Bay 7 6 to harness solar energy and collect (1 Esplanade Dr, esplanade.com), rainwater for irrigation and fountain affectionately known as the ‘Durian’ displays. The largest Supertree is a for its spiky, dome-shaped structure.

35 Orchard Road

BOTANIC GARDENS, ORCHARD ROAD, SHOPPING MALLS AND LOCAL BRANDS ORCHARD ROAD

What was once an orchard and nutmeg Down on Orchard Road proper, the plantation has been transformed into eye-catching Tang Plaza 2 (310 Singapore’s shopping nerve centre Orchard Rd, tangs.com), modelled with glitzy malls that sit along a 2.2km after a Chinese palace, offers a stretch. The famous shopping belt range of local fashion brands such offers big-name brands, local labels as Elohim, In Good Company and and food and drink catering to all Aijek. For food, there’s a food court preferences. Before you get swept up specialising in local delights. in all the retail action take a moment Across the street, ION Orchard at the sublime Singapore Botanic 3 (2 Orchard Turn, ionorchard. Gardens 1 (1 Cluny Rd, nparks.gov. com), with its futuristic frontage, sg/sbg). Singapore’s fi rst UNESCO is worth popping into for a browse World Heritage Site features the through its 300 stores. There’s also historic Swan Lake, where feeding an observation deck on the 56th floor the graceful birds is a rite of passage and the ION Art gallery. Further along, for young Singaporeans, a dedicated you’ll find Southeast Asia’s flagship Learning Forest with 30 species of Apple Store 4 (270 Orchard Rd, bamboo, and some of the tallest tree apple.com.sg) spread across two species in Southeast Asia. floors where they showcase their

36 Coronation AREA GUIDES

Bukit Timah Rd Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

IN GOOD COMPANY SINGAPORE BOTANIC GARDENS Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd S Serangoon Rd Sims Ave 2 R Rd Newton Flyover 1 Holland Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah 3 Kinte Rd 8 2 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 4 Jin Besar 1 Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd 4 Baboo Ln 8 Tembeling Rd Bukit Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd 3 Joo Chiat Rd R R Chander Rd Commonwealth Race5 Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd 5 Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6 Queensway 1 R Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd R Upper Weld Rd 7 Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 1 East Coast Rd 7 4 7 6 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 6 8 X Sungei Rd 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10 8 8 4 Harding Rd 7 5 2 Dempsey Rd Orchard Turn Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd MANHATTAN BAR Jin Besar Jin Pinang Loewen Rd R Orchard Blvd Amber Rd 3 Orchard Rd Aliwal St 3 1 Kandahar St t

Muscat St Sultan Gate Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang S Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 9 Penang Rd 8 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St latest products and host hands- search of unconventional souvenirs at Beach Rd Republic Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd Commonwealth Grange Rd

on educational sessions. AcrossGrange Rd Naiise 7 (2 Handy Rd, , Republic Bencoolen St the street, the swanky #B1-08, naiise.com). The one-stop Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Mandarin Waterloo St Victoria St

Queen St Blvd Gallery 5 (333A Orchard Rd, shop offers more than 1,500 products North Bridge St River Valley Rd Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover mandaringallery.com.sg) is where from 900 emerging brands from Highway

you’ll findTanglin Rd local jeweller Choo Yilin Singapore and globally. The quirky Nicoll Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd (#02-23) and her keepsakes using collection includes everything from Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Type-A Burmese jadeite and semi- T-shirts with phrases to Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown precious gems. For a quick pick- Ganges Ave curry puff cushions and various 4 5 Raffles Ave 6 7 Alexandra Rd me-up, settle in at the boudoir-style lifestyle items depicting beloved

Esplanade Dr Antoinette (#02-33) for chef Pang hawker dishes. Havelock Rd Rd Kok Keong’s cakes and pastries. End the day at the chic Manhattan Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP Tiong Bahru St 8 Walk off the sugar high as you Bar (Lvl 2, Regent Hotel, Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

peruse the work of 60 top local 1 CuscadenSeng Poh Ln Rd, regenthotels.com) 5 3 Fullerton Rd Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 homeware and fashion designers at whereGuan Chuan St you’re assured a top-shelf Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 2 Mohamed Ln Gardens 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 6 5 2 by the Bay Design Orchard (250 DeltaOrchard cocktail. Not only is it Asia’s Best 6 Club St Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Rd, designorchard.sg). The building Bar 2018, but it has its own Kreta rickhouse,Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Bayfront Ave is also an events space and an so any whisky-based tipple would Kadayanallurbe St Maxwell Rd

incubator for local designers. Go in a wise choice. Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd 37 Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

1

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Sentosa

RESORTS WORLD SENTOSA, UNIVERSAL STUDIOS, KIDZANIA, TANJONG BEACH

From fishing village to a British 24 movie-themed rides (of varying military fortress to a venue for the complexity and thrillseeker levels) historic Trump-Kim summit in 2018, cater to young and old. Rides like Sentosa has come a long way from Transformers the Ride: The Ultimate its humble roots. Once known as 3D Battle and Battlestar Galactica: Pulau Blakang Mati (‘Island of Death Human vs Cylon remain hot tickets, from Behind’), its dark past has been so expect to stand in a queue unless all but forgotten. These days, it’s a you’ve purchased a Universal weekend playground for locals and Express pass. tourists alike with its man-made Away from the RWS complex are beaches. Sentosa is easily accessible other activities like the newly opened from the mainland by walking (there’s AJ Hackett 2 (30 Siloso Beach a 670m sheltered Sentosa Boardwalk Walk, ajhackett.com), Singapore’s from VivoCity), public transport (bus, only bungy jump offering three options monorail), taxi or by a scenic (Bungy Jump, Skybridge and Giant cable car ride. Swing) for getting your scream on. For Chief among the island’s attractions a tamer adrenaline rush, try the Skyline is Universal Studios Singapore 1 Luge 3 (1 Imbiah Rd, skylineluge. (8 Sentosa Gateway, rwsentosa.com) com), a toboggan ride down a long, in , where paved, curving track, or the Skyride,

38 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Newton Flyover 1 Holland Lor Mambong Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman Jin Merah Kinte Rd 8 Warna 2 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 4 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd Baboo Ln 8 Tembeling Rd Bukit Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd 3 Rd Joo Chiat Rd Holland Rd Chander Rd Commonwealth Race5 Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd 7 Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 11 East Coast Rd 7 4 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 6 8 Sungei Rd 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5 idge Rd 2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Br Jin Besar 2 Jin Pinang Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd 3 Aliwal St 1

Tanglin Kandahar St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 7 9 Penang Rd 8 8 1 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 1 Raffles Ave Alexandra Rd 2

Havelock Rd AREA GUIDES Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Seng Poh Ln TANJONG5 BEACH3 CLUB Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 4 by the Bay Delta Chin Swee Rd 6 Club St Chay Yan St Club St 3 Sago Ln Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Lower 5 Henderson Rd 4 9 Marina Mall Marina6 Gardens OLA BEACH CLUB Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Dr

Cantonment

a four-seater chairlift experience now Robinson Rd available during the day and at twilight. Shenton Way Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd KidZania Singapore 4 (31 Beach Rd View, #01-01/02, kidzania.com.Lower sg) offers kids’ role-playing activities Henderson Rd West Coast that mimic adult jobs (from pilot to Keppel Rd Highway firefighter) spread across a two-floor SKYLINE LUGE Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct indoor space. Meanwhile the Mega Adventure Park 5 (10A Siloso tanjongbeachclub.com) is the Beach Walk, sg.megaadventure. place be for a game of beer pong or West Coast Highway com) features a 450m-long zipline, a volleyball or a boozy brunch or dip. 15m tethered jump, a treetop climbing It’s especially busy on the weekends, challenge and a bungee trampoline. so if a deck chair remains elusive roll For some time in the sun, there’s out a blanket on the beach and enjoy a number of beach clubs to choose the live DJ tunes and sunset view. For from. Tanjong Beach Club 6 a more active day on the sand, Ola (120 Tanjong Beach Walk, Beach Club 7 (46 Siloso Beach

G S Walk, olabeachclub.com) offers 1 doughnut rides, stand-up paddles or I R

I G A I jet blades for rent, as well as a menu R 5 G A of Hawaiian-themed poke bowls and S R tiki-style cocktails. Further afield,

R 3 8 I A A newish addition Panamericana (Sentosa Golf Club, 27 Bukit Manis

Rd, panamericana.sg) is worth S A A navigating to for its juicy lamb cooked 6 2 7 4 on an inhouse asador, and the array 8 of Instagram-worthy cocktails. 7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

39 Tiong Bahru

COOL CAFÉ SPOTS, INDIE BOUTIQUES AND PRE-WAR ART DECO SURROUNDINGS BOOKSACTUALLYQUEENS STREET

Few neighbourhoods are as charming Tiong Bahru Teochew Kueh (#02- as the Tiong Bahru district. Located 02) for handmade breakfast items close to Chinatown and Orchard like soon kueh (dumpling fi lled with Road, the housing estate built in the julienned turnip), Tiong Bahru Fried 1930s is beloved by locals for its Art Kway Teow (#02-11) known for its Deco-style apartments with rounded plate of fried noodles full of wok hei balconies and spiral staircases. (breath of the wok) and Tiong Bahru Adding to the vibe is an eclectic mix Lee Hong Kee Cantonese Roasted of eateries (hip cafés, old-school tze (#02-60) for its perfectly roasted char char coffeeshops, third-wave coffee siew (barbecued pork). spots) and shops that reflects the If the local coffee is not to your city’s growing cosmopolitan make-up. liking, Tiong Bahru has more than Start off at the famous Tiong Bahru a few spots to satiate any espresso Market 1 (30 Seng Poh Rd), spread cravings. 40 Hands 2 (#01-12, 78 over two fl oors and featuring a wet Yong Siak St, 40handscoffee.com) market and some of Singapore’s most remains a popular spot for its robust beloved hawkers. The choices can be brews and hearty meat toasties. overwhelming, so zero in on the ones At The Butcher’s Wife 3 (19 Yong with queues, or heritage hawkers like Siak St, thebutcherswifesg.com),

40 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Newton Flyover 1 Holland Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 2 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 4 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd Baboo Ln 8 Tembeling Rd Bukit Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd 3 Rd Joo Chiat Rd Holland Rd Chander Rd Commonwealth Race5 Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd 7 Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 11 East Coast Rd 7 4 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 6 8 Sungei Rd 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Pi Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd nang 3 Aliwal St 1

Tanglin Kandahar St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 7 9 Penang Rd 8 8 1 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 1 Raffles Ave Alexandra Rd 2

R AREA GUIDES Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Delta TIONG BAHRU MARKET TIONG BAHRU FLATS

ECP

R Bayfront Ave Bayfront

R R Church S R Lower St 1 E S Chin Swee Rd R S

E S Jin Bukit Merah S R Cross St 7 7 88 Bahru Dr 1 G S Pagoda St Rd 33 Smith St 2 Gardens Mohamed Ln 2 44 2 R 6 Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 4 5 E 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St S Club St 3 Sago Ln NANA & BIRD Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 9 5 the menu of western-style dairy- and It bags as well as Heavenly Jelly 4 Marina Mall Marina6 Gardens gluten-free meals proves dietary shoes. Some of the area’s best finds Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave restrictions do not necessarily equate aren’t immediately apparent. Bincho Maxwell Rd to tasteless or boring. 7 (#01-19, 78 Moh Guan Tce, On the same stretch lies independent bincho.com.sg) cleverly incorporates bookstore BooksActually 4 a Japanese yakitori joint at the back of Dr (9 Yong Siak St, booksactually.com), a 70-year old noodle stall (look for the Cantonment stocked with a wide variety of Asian original Hua Bee sign) that whips Robinson Rd poets and writers, as well as a back up bowls of fishball noodles while room filled with quirky tchotchkes. Bincho itself serves plates of charcoal- Shenton Way The love for local continues at multi- grilled Wagyu beef and chicken. Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway labelDelta Rdboutique Nana & Bird 5 (1M Then there’s old-school eateries like Yong Siak St, nanaandbird.com), Por Kee Eating House 8 (69 Seng Rd offering Singapore fashion brands like Poh Ln, #01-02) where an authentic Matter and Rye, as well as their own tze char (affordable homestyle Lower minimalist-style apparel. On the same Chinese dishes) experience awaits street, pop into Korean bag brand complete with red plastic chairs and Kwani 6 (1H Yong Siak St, kwani. dishes such as Champagne pork sg) to explore their range of functional ribs and cereal-fried prawns. Henderson Rd Keppel Rd West Coast 41 Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway w eta G a s otn e S

2 ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk 1 Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 5 7

Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach 4 3

view

Siloso Beach View Artillery Ave

Allanbrooke Rd

6 8 The Heartlands

THE NEIGHBOURHOODS OF BISHAN, QUEENSTOWN AND TOA PAYOH HOLD A HOST OF HIDDEN GEMS BISHAN PARK

To really know Singapore, pay a visit kmspks.org) is one of Singapore’s to its suburban areas – also known largest Buddhist temples, founded in as the Heartlands – to see how the 1921, with one of the largest bronze locals go about their day-to-day Medicine Buddhas in Southeast Asia. lives. These three areas are easily The Road stretch is accessible by public transport. packed with food options including Udders (246D Upper Thomson Rd, BISHAN udders.com.sg), which serves up Located in north-central Singapore local-inspired ice-cream flavours like and bordering MacRitchie Reservoir, Champion Chendol and Thai Iced Tea. Bishan is home to the award-winning At nearby popular café and brunch Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park (nparks. spot Pacamara Boutique Coffee gov.sg), one of the largest urban Roasters (185 Upper Thomson Rd, parks in Singapore, with a 3km-long pacamara.sg), ricotta pancakes are river and a play facility accessible a perennial hot seller, while further for children with different abilities, down the street you’ll find one of the including a wheelchair-accessible best roti prata (crispy pancake) in swing. Kong Meng San Phor Kark Singapore at the Roti Prata House See Monastery (88 Bright Hill Rd, (246 Upper Thomson Rd).

42 AREA GUIDES

QUEENSTOWN THE ROTI PRATA HOUSE

BISHAN PARK TOA PAYOH

QUEENSTOWN TOA PAYOH What was once a swampy village Singapore’s second satellite town is became Singapore’s first satellite home to the Toa Payoh HDB Hub, town, used as a testing ground for where exhibits chart Singapore’s public Singapore’s public housing program. housing history. The area’s unofficial Brass Lion Distillery (40 Alexandra star is the Dragon Playground Tce, brassliondistillery.com) is a (Blk 28 Toa Payoh Lorong 6), a distillery that produces gin infused Singapore icon designed in 1979 with Singaporean flavours and by Khor Ean Ghee. Toa Payoh is a conducts tours. For coffee lovers, hawker lover’s dream: there’s Chey there’s Tiong Hoe Speciality Coffee Sua Carrot Cake (127 Lorong 1 (170 Stirling Rd, #01-1133, tionghoe. Toa Payoh, #02-30 Toa Payoh com) that has been roasting its own West Market & Food Centre), a beans for decades. There’s also popular crisp turnip-based breakfast staple; satay stall Old Satay (#01- Hua Fong Kee Roasted Duck (128 52 Alexandra Village Food Centre, Lorong 1 Toa Payoh, #01-811); and 120 Bukit Merah Ln 1) where freshly Swatow Seafood (181 Lorong 4 Toa barbecued sticks of pork, chicken or Payoh, #02-602), specialising in beef satay sell for S$0.50. crisp oyster omelette.

43 Green Singapore

IT’S NOT CALLED THE GARDEN CITY FOR NO REASON SUNGEI BULOH

SUNGEI BULOH undeveloped, residents lived in Home to 202 hectares of mangroves kampung (village) houses and wild and a secondary forest, Singapore’s boars and monkeys still roamed fi rst ASEAN heritage park is a treasure free. Explore the island by foot trove of flora and fauna. Visit during or rented bicycle. For a view of the early morning for the best bird- neighbouring Johor, watching opportunities (there are and the mainland, find the 20m approximately 140 species of birds Jejawi Tower. While you’re there, look found there) and September to March, out for migratory birds called Little you can catch sight of shorebird and Stints, a newly discovered species. sandpiper flocks en route to Australia. For sightseeing, there’s the Wei Tuo Look out as well for saltwater Fa Gong, a Buddhist temple, and the crocodiles and monitor lizards. German Girl Shrine.

PULAU UBIN A 15-minute bumboat ride (S$3) Singapore’s highest hill (163m) is brings you back in time to 1950s also home to the last patches of Singapore. Pulau Ubin, a boomerang- its primary rainforest, including shaped island, is a reminder of undisturbed tropical forest found Singapore when its beaches were during the time of Sir Stamford

44 AREA GUIDES

MACRITCHIE TREETOP HENDERSON WAVES

NATURE PARK

Raffles. Choose from four different with its easy-to-navigate boardwalks. routes to hike up to the summit. For Keep an eye out for dragonfly species cyclists, there’s a mountain bike trail. and the Hanguana Trail, with rare native plants. This 10km stretch in the west part of MACRITCHIE TREETOP WALK Singapore best illustrates the term This 27m-high TreeTop Walk is a ‘urban jungle’. Spanning six different 250m free-standing suspension parks, the hike from Mount Faber Park bridge which spans the two highest all the way to points in MacRitchie Reservoir and will bring you along the worm-like looks out to a breathtaking view of Henderson Waves (also Singapore’s the reservoir and forest canopy. highest pedestrian bridge) while the man-made bridges along the Forest COUNTRYSIDE and Canopy make for a mudless walk Located in northwestern Singapore, through a secondary forest. this area is home to several local goat and vegetable farms, including Bollywood Veggies and D’Kranji Farm This new nature park in the centre of Resort, where you can learn the trade the island is a family-friendly outing and spend the night in rural bliss.

45 CHINGAY PARADE

Annual events WHETHER IT’S THE FESTIVE CELEBRATION OF CHINESE NEW YEAR OR THE ROAR OF FORMULA 1 CARS, THERE’S ALWAYS A PARTY GOING ON SOMEWHERE ON THE ISLAND

Singapore Art Week Singapore Restaurant Week SAW features exhibitions, walking The concept is straightforward: pick tours, film screenings, gallery a restaurant and enjoy a three-course openings and more. Jan lunch or dinner at a special price. Mar

Chinese New Year HSBC Singapore Rugby Sevens Marina Bay hosts lanterns depicting See the top nations in rugby competing Chinese zodiac animals; there’s also at the National Stadium. Apr the Chingay Parade, a display of multicultural heritage. Jan/Feb Singapore International Festival of Arts Thaipusam A month of the arts includes theatre, During this Hindu Festival, devotees dance and music performances parade from Sri Srinivasa Perumal around Singapore. Apr-May/May-Jun Temple on Serangoon Road to Sri Thendayuthapani Temple. Jan/Feb Singapore Cocktail Festival Cap off a hearty meal with some i Light Singapore drinks during this celebration of the This sustainable light art festival has city’s hottest watering holes. May interactive light works set up around Marina Bay and special events such Hari Raya Puasa as the Art-Zoo Inflatable Park. Mar During the month of Ramadan, the

46 EVENTS CALANDER

DEEPAVALI NEW YEAR AT MARINA BAY streets of Geylang Serai come alive Music Matters Live with roadside bazaars and traditional This live music festival features Malay food. May-Jun famous bands and up-and-coming acts performing over five nights in the GSS: Experience Singapore week leading up to Grand Prix. Sep For five weeks, enjoy special experiences and shopping deals Grand Prix Season Singapore in this celebration of retail, food, The Formula 1 Singapore Grand beverage and design. Jun-Jul Prix offers high-speed action on the Marina Bay F1 circuit plus a host of International Champions international headliners, world-class Cup Singapore entertainment acts and parties. Sep Expect riveting football action by top European clubs and thrilling activities Deepavali off the pitch when football fans Little India’s Serangoon Road is congregate. Jul artfully illuminated for this Hindu festival symbolising the triumph Singapore Food Festival of good over evil and light over Local culinary talents take the darkness. Oct/Nov spotlight with pop-ups and events around the island. There will be Christmas on A Great Street food-inspired art and workshops Join the festivities and be part of plus new takes on local dishes. Jul Orchard Road’s transformation into a magical Christmas paradise Singapore Night Festival fiesta. Nov-Dec For two weeks in August, the Bras Basah/Bugis arts and heritage ZoukOut district hosts interactive night Top DJs like Paul van Dyk and installations, music performances Afrojack helm the decks at an outdoor and food in the Festival Village. Aug fiesta at Siloso Beach, Sentosa. Dec

47 Essential info

Attitude & etiquette DVDs and CDs. You are allowed In general, Singaporeans are friendly to bring in two litres of alcohol and helpful. However, race and religion in five specific combinations of are usually not topics of debate. Feel spirits, wine and beer, but there is free to ask for food recommendations no duty free concession on liquor or local tips on what to see or do – for people arriving from Malaysia. everyone loves to play tour guide. See customs.gov.sg for more information. Currency The currency used in Singapore Getting around is the ($). Singapore’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) S$1 is roughly equivalent to A$1. system is a foolproof, efficient way to get around the island. The MRT Customs provides scenic views of Singapore, To buy duty-free goods when though you may want to avoid peak entering Singapore, you have to rush hours. See map, p49. have been away for at least two Buses are also inexpensive. There nights. You can’t bring cigarettes are routes all around Singapore and into Singapore, but you can a handy late-night bus service called buy them on the way out. There the Nite Owl. Fares are distance- are no duty-free concessions on based and typically cost under $2. cigarettes or other tobacco items. All buses are air-conditioned. You are not allowed to bring in If you’re planning on using the chewing gum, firecrackers or pirated trains and buses a lot during your

48 visit, the Singapore Tourist Pass (thesingaporetouristpass.com.sg) offers unlimited rides for $10/day. PASSES & TOURS Otherwise, pick up an EZ-Link card, which can be used on both trains and Hippo Singapore Pass

buses. Just tap the card on the reader Visit multiple attractions and ESSENTIAL INFO as you board and tap out at your stop. tours with this single pass and EZ-Link cards can be purchased or save upwards of 50% in the topped up at MRT stations, 7-Eleven process. See hippopass.com/ and Cheers stores island-wide. singapore You can also hail a taxi along most roads or from taxi stands. Wet Market Adventure & The flag-down fare starts at $3.20- Hawker Centre Discovery by $3.90, but be prepared for additional Wok ‘n’ Stroll surcharges. Tipping is not required. Experience Little India’s bustling Tekka Market. Price Essential info The city’s major cab companies are: includes guided tour, drinks and Comfort or Citycab +65 6552 1111 meals. See woknstroll.com.sg Premier Taxis +65 6363 6888 Prime Taxi +65 6778 0808 Singapore After Dark Night SMRT Taxi +65 6555 8888 Tour by Monster Day Tours Transcab Tel +65 6555 3333 This tour introduces you to hawkers, pubs and bars on the You can also download ride-hailing way to party hub Clarke Quay. apps ComfortDelGro, GOJEK or Grab. Includes drinks and meals. See Taxis are abundant at the airport. monsterdaytours.com A trip to the city costs around $20- $30 (off-peak), plus surcharges. The Original Singapore Walks Several companies provide airport These walks cover areas transfers. Among them are Limo Taxi including Chinatown, Little (limomaxi.com) and Limousine Cab India and Kampong Glam, (limousinecab.com). bringing people into places most other tours don’t. Language See journeys.com.sg Singapore has four official languages – English, Chinese, Malay and Tamil – Historical Singapore Bicycle but almost everyone speaks English. Tour by Let’s Go Tours Take in the best of old Smoking Singapore at a gentle pace. Smoking is not permitted on public Price includes bike hire, helmet, transport, taxi stands, bus stops, ferry water, snacks and drinks. See terminals and most indoor public letsgobikesingapore.com places. Alfresco cafés have smoking

49 areas, and smoking is permitted in if visiting as a tourist, will be given specified rooms at some pubs and ‘social visit’ passes valid for up to 30 nightspots. Only light up where it’s days upon arrival. Check ica.gov.sg for allowed, or risk a fine. the most up-to-date information.

Tax refunds Weather A 7 per cent Goods & Services Tax Singapore’s weather is hot and humid (GST) is charged on most items. with little variation throughout the year. Foreign visitors can claim back the The average daytime temperature is GST when leaving from Changi Airport. 31°C dropping to around 24°C at night.

Tipping Wi-Fi Singaporeans don’t generally tip, as Free Wi-Fi is readily available in hotels and restaurants levy a 10 per Singapore. To get connected, register cent service charge on bills plus 7 per for an account with your foreign cent Goods & Services Tax, denoted mobile number at any Wireless@SG by ++ on menus and bills. hotspot and you will receive your login details via an SMS. Overseas charges Visas may apply. Free Wi-Fi is available at Nationals of most Western countries Changi Airport as well as selected do not require a visa to visit, and shopping malls.

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS & WEBSITES

Singapore’s international Changi Airport flight Singapore General dialing code is +65. information: Hospital: While in Singapore and www.changiairport.com Outram Rd, +65 6222 if you have international 3322 roaming service on your Embassies mobile, you don’t Australia: 25 Napier Rd, Credit Cards have to press +65. +65 6836 4100 Mastercard: New Zealand: #21-04, 800 110 0113 Emergency 1 George St, +65 6235 American Express: Police: 999 9966 1800 299 1997 Ambulance/Fire: 995 Medical Useful websites General info Raffles Hospital: visitsingapore.com Tourist info: 585 North Bridge Rd, timeout.com/singapore 1800 736 2000 +65 6311 1111

50

Singapore is much more than the sum of its numerous attractions. It’s constantly evolving, reinventing and reimagining itself, with people who are passionate about creating new possibilities. It’s where foodies, explorers, collectors, action seekers, culture shapers and socialisers meet.