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master kilkenny- english 8/3/06 1:20 PM Page 1 master kilkenny- english 8/3/06 1:20 PM Page 2 AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY KILKENNY Foreword County Kilkenny has for centuries been landscape; the same landscape, being rich and widely regarded as one of the most important fertile, historically supported such estates historic centres in Ireland. An appreciation of through agricultural ventures. The great rivers the early built heritage of the county can be of the region have encouraged milling and oth- traced back to nineteenth-century publications er industrial enterprise since medieval times, including The Travellers’ Directory through while the banks of the Suir were traditionally Ireland… (1801), The Post Chaise Companion an indigenous source of thatch for vernacular (1805), and Samuel Lewis’s A Topographical cottages. The country enjoys a diverse ecclesi- Dictionary of Ireland (1837); earlier still, County astical heritage with chapels and churches sur- Kilkenny featured prominently, if not entirely viving as the legacy of Catholic, Church of favourably in Elstob’s A Trip To Kilkenny From Ireland, Methodist, and Presbyterian communi- Durham… (1779). ties. The advent of the railways introduced new The evaluation of the built legacy of the forms of architecture to the area including sig- county continued in the mid nineteenth cen- nal boxes and impressive viaducts. Meanwhile, tury and into the early twentieth century with the twentieth century witnessed the emergence the publication of The Antiquities and Scenery of of more innovative building types like cinemas County Kilkenny in 1851, The History, Architecture and motor garages. and Antiquities of the Cathedral Church of Saint Although not a comprehensive catalogue, Canice, Kilkenny in 1857, and the foundation of the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage the Ecclesiastical Archaeological Society of (NIAH) undertook, in 2004-5, the largest survey Ossory in 1874. Meanwhile, the Kilkenny of the post 1700 built heritage of County Archaeological Society, the precursor to the Kilkenny. It is hoped that, through a survey Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland has been such as this, a greater awareness of and appre- active since 1849. ciation for the architectural legacy of County And yet, beyond Kilkenny City’s interna- Kilkenny can be fostered. As custodians of this tionally-renowned early sites, which include valuable resource, it is the responsibility of the Kilkenny Castle (originally 1207-19), Rothe present generation to ensure that it survives as COUNTY KILKENNY House (1594-1610), and Saint Canice’s a sustainable legacy for generations to come. A field graveyard enclosure makes a picturesque Cathedral (begun 1203), the architectural her- impression in the rural landscape at the border itage of the post 1700 period of the entire coun- The NIAH survey of the architectural between County Kilkenny ty has been unjustly neglected. heritage of County Kilkenny can be and County Tipperary. A flat iron gate attests to County Kilkenny boasts a wealth of archi- accessed on the Internet at: the skills of the local tectural treasures dating from the eighteenth www.buildingsofireland.ie blacksmith. century to the present day. Wealthy patrons were traditionally drawn to build stately coun- try houses in the county by the picturesque 3 master kilkenny- english 8/3/06 1:20 PM Page 4 AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY KILKENNY Introduction tain ranges although upland stretches, such as the stone presents a luminous quality. Other the Castlecomer Plateau, add variety to the materials also occur: the valley of the Nore near topography. Graiguenamanagh, overlooked by Thomastown is mostly old red sandstone. The Mount Brandon and the Blackstairs Mountains county is also known for its ‘marble’ quarries of neighbouring counties, benefits from a pic- which were developed most actively by William turesque setting on the River Barrow, and dis- Colles (fl. 1702-30) when he established a huge- tant prospects of Slievenamon add to the sce- ly profitable marble works at Maddockstown, nic effect in the south west of the county. Like near Kilkenny City, in 1730. some of its architectural heritage, much that is The general effect of Kilkenny is of a coun- attractive comes by surprise and needs to be ty at ease with its past and enjoying its pres- sought out. ent. In many respects the overall prospect has Kilkenny rests on a bed of grey carbonifer- changed little since in 1801 when The Travellers’ ous limestone that has, through the ages, been Directory through Ireland… noted: used extensively in the buildings of the coun- ‘The soil is rich and fertile, being proper for ty, especially for decorative elements like win- tillage, it produces plenty of corn, wool, coal, and dow sills and surrounds. When used on a large marble; and the country abounds with fine planta- scale, as at Saint Mary’s Catholic Cathedral tions, and is from the purity of the air, esteemed (1843-57), Kilkenny, it can appear flat and extremely healthful…’ (Dublin, 1801). somewhat dull, but in the brilliant sunlight of a frosty morning or in the setting summer sun County Kilkenny lies in south east Leinster, than urban. While there are areas of poorer KILKENNY CITY A view of Kilkenny bordering on County Laois to the north, Carlow land, it was the very fertility of the deep river City from Windgap Hill and Wexford to the east, Waterford to the valleys along the Suir, Barrow and Nore that overlooks the River Nore. The remnants of the mid south, and Tipperary to the west. The landscape encouraged early settlement. In the early eighteenth-century Ormonde Woollen Mill or is predominantly agricultural, cut through by months of summer the landscape along these Castle Mill (pre 1758) are COUNTY KILKENNY deep and fertile river valleys. Despite centres of valleys assumes an almost startling lushness, all visible in the foreground. The mill was established by A topographical view, char- population of remarkable historical distinction, the more welcome because we come upon them the Butler family on the acteristic of the south-west of the county, shows flat the county remains predominantly rural with almost by accident in a county without dra- site of an earlier corn and tuck mill (pre 1654/5). fields giving way to rolling the overall impression being pastoral rather matic scenery. Kilkenny lacks distinctive moun- hills in the distance. 5 master kilkenny- english 8/3/06 1:20 PM Page 6 AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY KILKENNY Pre 1700 Pre 1700 (fig. 1) SAINT LACHTAIN’S CHURCH New Bridge Street/ Kilkenny Street, Freshford (1730) An early eighteenth- century Gothic-style church incorporates a salvaged twelfth-century Romanesque doorcase (1133), together with a number of smaller artefacts carved from a honey- coloured local sandstone. ing from 1217, was the largest walled town in extensive and imposing of its kind in Ireland. (fig. 3) KELLS PRIORY Tourism in Kilkenny has placed a heavy Cainneach (pre 599), and archaeological finds (fig. 2) medieval Ireland. The concurrent arrival of new But, for all its scale and impressiveness, it Kells have even confirmed Viking activity in the area SAINT LACHTAIN’S continental religious orders, including the should be recalled that the fortified nature of (founded 1193) emphasis on the county’s extensive medieval CHURCH heritage. Guide books, from the popular Shell of Dunmore Cave around 928 AD. The physi- New Bridge Street/ Augustinians, Benedictines, Cistercians, and the external walls reflects the turbulent period An aerial view of Kells Kilkenny Street, Priory clearly demonstrates cal fabric of Freshford incorporates the entire Grey Friars, encouraged not only new religious in which it flourished, and the manner in Guide to Ireland of the 1960s to more recent Freshford the perimeter wall, which incorporates the publications, accentuate the number and area of an Early Christian site. This includes the norms, but also diversity in agricultural practice which such sites were integral to a colonising A richly-ornamented familiar tower houses importance of Kilkenny’s medieval sites. This Late-Romanesque doorway (1133) at Saint doorcase shows high and an ambitious architectural programme. This process. Kilkenny City retains much of its for- known as the ‘Seven quality stone masonry in Castles’. The ruined priory, legacy, largely the product of Anglo-Norman Lachtain’s Church (1730), which supports an the saw tooth detailing; was most marked with the establishment of mer defensive wall, which encompasses an area occupying the inner interventions, remains a strong ‘selling’ point inscription recording the name of its patron as an inscription records abbeys and priories. The Priory at Kells was that includes Saint Mary’s Church (c.1200), now monastic precinct, the original patron as remains an imposing for the county, but many earlier settlements MacRoen (figs. 1-2). MacRoen. founded in 1193 by Geoffrey de Monte Marisco Saint Mary’s Hall, Saint Mary’s Lane, and an landmark on a bank overlooking the Kings River. also exist. Cill Chainnig itself was a sixth-cen- The Anglo-Normans founded a range of (fl. 1169-93) for the Canons Regular of Saint abbey dedicated to Saint Francis of Assisi, off tury settlement centred on the church of Saint towns in the county; among them Callan, dat- Augustine (fig. 3). It remains one of the most present-day Horse Barrack Lane, the chancel of 7 master kilkenny- english 8/3/06 1:20 PM Page 8 AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY KILKENNY Pre 1700 (fig. 4) JERPOINT ABBEY Jerpointabbey (1180-1200) A substantial ecclesiastical complex established by the Cistercian order, overlook- ing the Arrigle River. The cloister and crossing tower illustrated were introduced in the fifteenth century. Jerpoint Abbey is now a National Monument in the care of the Office of Public Works.