THEWWD100 AN EXCLUSIVE SURVEY OF THE BRANDS CONSUMERS KNOW BEST — WITH SOME FAMILIAR NAMES AND A FEW SURPRISES. SEE SPECIAL REPORT INSIDE.

SYCAMORE EYES BRAND True Religion Bidding Kicks Into Higher Gear

By VICKI M. YOUNG

THE BIDDING for True Religion Apparel Inc. is heat- ing up, and sources said private equity fi rm Sycamore Partners has the lead. The sale process is still in the “early stages,” ac- THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 cording to one source familiar with the process. Two WWD other sources also said Sycamore has jumped into the lead. One source warned that while the discussions have deepened between Sycamore and True Religion, the talks could still break apart. Another source in the fi nancial community said names of other interested bidders include Los Angeles-based Gores Group, which owns J.Mendel and has a stake in Mexx, and South Korean fashion conglomerate E-Land Group, which bid on Collective Brands Inc. earlier this year. Fine and Executives at Sycamore and Guggenheim Securities, the fi nancial adviser to True Religion, could not be reached for comment Wednesday. A sale of True Religion, if it gets completed soon, would wrap up all outstanding mergers and acquisi- Dandy tion opportunities in the American denim market. It’s been a busy sector. Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. last month acquired an 80.1 percent stake in L.A.-based “I always wanted to live a denim and fashion brand J Brand Holdings LLC from man’s life in a woman’s Star Avenue Capital and J Brand management for body,” said Diane von $290 million plus $10 million in advisory fees. In July, COLLECTIONS private equity fi rm TSG Consumer Partners took an Furstenberg. For pre- undisclosed stake in Paige Denim. fall, she channeled PRE-FALL While Not Your Daughter’s Jeans had been on the that thought — auction block since a year ago, the company has been 2013 taken off the market. along with ones of David Moross, chairman and chief executive offi - a dandy Oscar Wilde cer of Falconhead Capital, said, “Falconhead Capital has been very happy with our investment in NYDJ, and Mick Jagger during and while we considered offers to sell, we decided to his Marianne Faithfull retain our ownership and reinvest in the continued years — into masculine touches, all while growth of the brand.” making sure not to ignore her feminine SEE PAGE 8 side. Here, von Furstenberg’s color-blocked wool and nylon tweed coat worn over a silk chiffon dress. For more on the collection, Pakistan Transport Stalled see WWD.com/fashion-news; for more on By MAHLIA S. LONE pre-fall, see page 6. LAHORE, Pakistan — The transport of goods and containers is at a standstill in Pakistan as the coun- trywide strike called by the transporters associations stretched to its 11th day on Wednesday. So far, the business community estimates losses of $700 million due to the action and mills have missed their second weekly vessels. Thousands of trucks car- rying export cargo are stuck on highways across the country. Imported raw material delays are also affect- ing mills’ production. Similarly, cotton from farmers in rural areas is not reaching ginning mills. The smell of rotten fruits and vegetables that were bound for ships permeates the air, while driv- ers sit idly in trucks, stranded on highways, waiting for the National Highway Authority and the National Highways & Motorways Police on one side and the Transporters Association and the United Goods Transporters Alliance representatives on the other to resolve the standoff. If demands are not met by Thursday, All Pakistan Oil Tankers Owners Association chairman Mir Muhammad Yousuf Shahwani said the organization will join the strike, further crippling the industry’s and country’s ability to move goods. It’s also more problems for an industry that saw a devastating fi re in September in a Karachi factory that killed 264 work- ers, and a smaller blaze in a shoe factory in Lahore in which 25 perished. Haji Muhammad Tariq Nabeel Mehmood, general PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO secretary of the Transporters Association (Punjab) SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012 WWD.COM Duke Weighs In on Bangladesh Fire a supply chain. There could be a and Exchange Commission and the Briefing Box By KRISTI ELLIS supplier that may be based here in Justice Department into allega- the United States and may be buy- tions that Wal-Mart’s Mexican in Today’s WWd MIKE DUKE, president and chief ing from factories, and sometimes subsidiary bribed foreign officials executive officer of Wal-Mart there are subcontract factories. We to help facilitate store expansion Valentino and the Master of Couture exhibition at Somerset House. Stores Inc., for the first time on have a requirement to know those in Mexico. House lawmakers also Tuesday night addressed the fire factories, though, and in this case launched their own investigation at a garment factory in Bangladesh that violation occurred and we’re into the allegations. The investi- that killed 111 workers, defending not going to do business with that gations are still ongoing. his company’s enforcement of fire- particular supplier anymore.” “We take those allegations very, safety standards, while at the same Asked whether there was a con- very seriously and we have an in- time acknowledging that more flict in Wal-Mart’s push for lower vestigation ongoing,” Duke said. work needs to be done. prices from its foreign suppliers “We’ll take the appropriate action Duke spoke at the Council on and its expectation of factories to based upon the conclusion of this Foreign Relations in New York in meet its fire safety and other stan- investigation.…Doing the right a broad discussion ranging from dards, Duke said, “We will not buy thing, we’ve installed a number of Wal-Mart’s sourcing and corporate from an unsafe factory. So this is additional steps in this particular social responsibility standards and not a price discussion.…If a fac- area of [Foreign Corrupt Practices for soMerset house Photo by Peter MacdiarMid/GettyPhoto by iMaGes challenges to the fiscal cliff talks in tory is not going to operate with Act] compliance. And we look at Washington, to the government’s in- high standards, then we will not markets around the world. We’ve The bidding for True Religion is heating up, and sources said vestigation into bribery allegations purchase from that factory, and taken a look at just how we operate private equity firm Sycamore Partners has the lead. PAGE 1 at Wal-Mart’s Mexican subsidiary. there’s no discussion about price.” and put in place compliance opera- Duke was also asked whether tions, and we’ve established a new Wal-Mart has said it termi- The transport of goods and containers is at a standstill nated the relationship with a office of compliance.…And I think in Pakistan as the countrywide strike called by the supplier that subcontracted this focus will make us a better work to Tazreen Fashions Ltd. in Mike Duke company regardless of the outcome transporters associations reached its 11th day. PAGE 1 Bangladesh, where a fire killed of the investigation in Mexico.” 111 workers on Nov. 24 and trig- Wal-Mart is the focus of an- Puma SE said it plans to recruit a new chief executive gered protests and an outcry from other investigation in India. On officer to help kick start growth at the troubled German U.S. and international worker Wednesday, the Indian govern- activewear firm. PAGE 6 and labor rights groups. In recent ment gave in to pressure from the days, there have been reports opposition and agreed to an inqui- Proenza Schouler is scouting Manhattan’s SoHo district from workers’ rights groups that ry of Wal-Mart’s lobbying in India. for its second New York location. PAGE 7 Wal-Mart produced substantial The inquiry will be headed by a amounts of apparel at Tazreen. retired judge, said Kamal Nath, Britain’s men’s wear designers are buzzing with Duke said Wal-Mart had a “very minister for parliamentary affairs. anticipation in the run-up to the January edition of London serious focus” in Bangladesh on Opposition parties took up the Collections: Men. PAGE MW1 fire safety in 2010, noting that the there are countries in which Wal- issue after Wal-Mart revealed in retail giant stopped doing busi- Mart refuses to source based on the the U.S. Senate it had spent $25 Alexandre Mattiussi open his first Ami boutique today in ness with 94 factories that failed absence of rule of law, corruption million in lobbying since 2008. Paris’ burgeoning Marais district. PAGE MW2 to meet its compliance standards or lack of human rights protection. “I think there are a couple of and also helped raise standards, “We do look at those factors in important points to make on this Robert Graham is ready to take a higher profile and has in the area of fire safety in partic- making a determination,” Duke from the U.S. side,” Nancy Powell, enlisted Yard, the image-making agency, to help. PAGE MW7 ular, in 23 other factories. said. “That is not to say that… American ambassador to India, “In 2011, there was even more where we do business today is said on NDTV on Tuesday. “What progress made,” Duke said. “We perfect nor would I even say has happened is the accusations on WWD.CoM worked with other organizations doing business in mature, devel- are that this money is bribery; what and retailers to raise the bar oped markets is perfect.…I think it is is lobbying. In the United States LONDON SCENE: WWD highlights the best new hotels, and did a tremendous amount of defining standards of how coun- those are two very separate things.” restaurants and bars to check out in London during training across the country,” add- tries operate is a sensitive topic, She pointed out that lobbying in the men’s fashion week. For more, see WWD.com/eye. ing that more than 3,000 facto- but we do have that consideration U.S. was regulated and the effort ries went through fire safety and — the rule of law, compliance had been to make it transparent. To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is other compliance training. and governance and the risk of “Wal-Mart had something [email protected], using The individual’s name. He acknowledged that more operating a business. It is a very like 80 items for which they ap- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. needs to be done in Bangladesh practical analysis that we do and proached U.S. policy makers on, VOLUME 204, NO. 122. THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, and around the world. there have been decisions that we in nine different categories, FDI Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, “We’re still stepping back again have made not to enter a market [foreign direct investment] in March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: and saying, ‘What else can we because of some of those factors.” India was one of them,” she said. S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. do?’” Duke said. “This is compli- Duke was also asked about the —WITHCONTRIBUTIONS Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian

cated. There are multiple steps in investigation by the Securities FROMMAYUSAINI Via Getty iMaGes roberts/blooMberG Joshua Photo by Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6.POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800- 289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless Inditex Incomes Up 21.7% in Quarter we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on from lower price point countries such as Spain and all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all By SAMANTHA CONTI Portugal to higher price point ones such as China, editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints and also mirrored a shift toward higher-price fash- of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at LONDON — Business is booming at Inditex, par- ion within countries worldwide. www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub. ent of brands including Zara and Massimo Dutti, In the first nine months, Inditex added 360 com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at and the company continues to expand, with capital stores in 54 markets, bringing the total number of P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE expenditure in 2012-13 hitting one billion euros, or stores worldwide to 5,887 in 86 markets. The com- FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER $1.3 billion. pany opened its first stores in Armenia and the for- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR On Wednesday, Inditex said net income climbed mer Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia. CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A 21.7 percent to 712 million euros, or $918.5 million, In the current quarter, on Dec. 5, Inditex opened SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. in the three months to Oct. 31. Sales in the period a Zara flagship at 460-490 Oxford Street in London. advanced 17.8 percent to 4.12 billion, or $5.31 bil- Designed by Elsa Urquijo Architects, the store N E lion, the company said. is laid out so that shoppers can move through the W

Figures have been converted at average ex- space intuitively. They are guided through intimate, DA change rates for the periods to which they refer. cubelike structures that are dedicated to specific TE In a report called “Inditex: Play It Again, Sam,” trends, with new items arriving twice a week. The LEADERSHIP Bernstein Research called the results “strong,” and delivery cycle ensures that the store is completely said it remained confident about the fashion retail- refreshed every 15 days. er’s “near and medium-term prospects,” although After the launch of the Zara online sales in China currency fluctuations could dent revenue growth in in September, the brand said it plans to open an on- the fourth quarter. line store in Canada during the 2013 spring season, and In the first nine months to Oct. 31, net income was chairman and chief executive officer Pablo Isla said up 27.1 percent to 1.66 billion euros, or $2.14 billion, during a conference call Wednesday that Zara would while sales climbed 17 percent to 11.36 billion euros, continue to expand online until it has a global presence. or $14.65 billion, the Spanish company reported. “Inditex continues its ongoing, global multicon- HUANG HUNG In constant currency terms, sales rose 15 percent cept growth and a strong execution of the business EM ANUEL CHIRICO CHINA INTER ACTIVE in the nine months to Oct. 31. The momentum con- model,” Isla said. “Our operations have also shown PVH CORP. MEDIA GROUP tinues: Store sales in constant currency terms also high efficiency, and tight operating control…Let me rose by 15 percent between Aug. 1 and Dec. 9. also tell you that in terms of expansion, our store Earnings before interest and taxes climbed 30.1 opening plan and online sales rollout for the year A P PA R E L & R E TA I L C E O S U M M I T percent to 2.19 billion euros, or $2.83 billion in the is on track.…We continue to see significant growth JAN 7-8, 2013 N EW YO RK CIT Y nine-month period. opportunities for Inditex globally.” Bernstein said that an uptick in gross margin to  —WITHCONTRIBUTIONS wwd.com/apparel 212.630.4425 60.5 percent was a reflection of Inditex’s shift away  FROMJULIANEEL

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Preliminary, subject to change. This announcement is not an offer, solicitation, commitment or recommendation to buy or sell the bonds and does not purport to be a complete statement of all material facts relating to the bonds. The offering is made only by means of the Offi cial Statement, copies of which may be obtained from RBC Capital Markets. This communication is not, and under no circumstances should be construed as, a solicitation to act as securities broker or dealer in any jurisdiction by any person or company that is not legally permitted to carry on the business of a securities broker or dealer in that jurisdiction. This advertisement is for informational purposes only. RBC Capital Markets is a registered trademark of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC Capital Markets is the global brand name for the capital markets business of Royal Bank of Canada and its affi liates, including RBC Capital Markets, LLC (member FINRA, NYSE and SIPC); RBC Dominion Securities Inc. (member IIROC and CIPF) and RBC Europe Limited (authorized and regulated by Financial Services Authority). ® Registered trademark of Royal Bank of Canada. Used under license. © Copyright 2012. All rights reserved. 4 WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012

eye

State of the Art WITH ART BASEL’S OVERLOADED LINEUP OF PERENNIALLY PACKED LATE-NIGHT PARTIES, MANY FORGET WHAT THE EVENT IS REALLY ABOUT: ART. WWD TAKES A LOOK AT STANDOUT PIECES FROM THE ADJOINING SCOPE, CONTEXT AND ART MIAMI FAIRS.

A collection of Alex Guofeng Cao’s works, clockwise from far left: “Lady Ermine vs Sistine Sibyl,” 2011; “Horst vs Degas,” 2010; “Mick Jagger vs Keith Richards, After Vadukul,” 2011; “Man Ray Tear vs Tear,” 2011; “I Love You Too, Lichtenstein vs Lichtenstein,” 2011; “Steve Jobs vs Neil Armstrong, After Watson,” 2011; “Venus vs David,” 2011. WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012 5 WWD.COM

CNNCTD+100’s “Sound Graffiti” installation by Roman Grandinetti, “Jackie and Geoff,” a cinematographic sculpture by Glaser/Kunz. consisting of 100 digital displays, playing 100 unique soundtracks.

Chul-Hyun Ahn’s “Visual Echo Experiment,” 2011.

From left: “Orange Purse,” 2010, and “Brown Purse,” 2010, by Milana Braslavsky.

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

“Brad” by Chuck Close.

Simon Bilodeau’s “Le Monde est un zombie II” installation.

PHOTOS BY LEXIE MORELAND 6 WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012 Puma CEO Koch to Step Down Pre-Fall 2013 PARIS — Puma SE said it plans to re- Koch has been the driver of strategic cruit a new chief executive officer to key initiatives and has strongly contrib- help kick-start growth at the troubled uted to Puma’s development over the Kate Spade: Kate Spade creative German activewear firm. past few years. I would like to warmly director Deborah Lloyd has been Franz Koch is to step down as Puma thank Franz for his efforts, commitment California dreaming, specifically ceo, and as a member of the group execu- and dedication to Puma, as well as his about Hollywood and Palm Springs. tive committee of PPR, Puma’s reference contribution to evolving the organiza- Those locales, along with the shareholder, at the end of March 2013. tion and management team,” he added. seductive Chinese film “In the Mood In the interim, Puma said Koch would Palus was elected chairman of for Love” inspired the collection. work closely with PPR group managing Puma’s administrative board in October It translated into vintage-style director Jean-François Palus “to secure following the resignation of Zeitz. brocades, jacquards and shiny Puma’s ongoing operational transforma- Also in October, Puma said it chiffon fabrics whipped into tion and generate profitable growth.” would shut 80 stores as profits at the signature Spade staples like poof Once a new management leader is in Herzogenaurach-based sporting goods skirts, tunic tops and a flirty dress in place, “we will pursue the reorganization giant plummeted 85.1 percent in the a colorful abstract flower print. of the company, focus on product innova- third quarter. The company had also The accessories were once tion and marketing and will continue to warned profits would be significantly again cheeky with movie marquee- devote the necessary resources to the de- lower in 2012 than the previous year, themed bags and jewelry, along velopment of the brand,” Palus stated. “I reflecting the impact of restructuring with straw hats and golf motifs on am fully confident in our ability to realize measures designed to offset a sharp de- bags. The company partnered with the huge potential of this iconic brand. cline in sales in crisis-hit Europe. Streamline Luggage for the first “Together with Jochen Zeitz, Franz — MILES SOCHA time for a set of rolling suitcases featuring Spade touches like handles and wheels in bright hues Avon Exiting South Korea, Vietnam and a cheerful printed lining. proved initiatives connected with a global By VICKI M. YOUNG head-count reduction and the closure and rationalization of certain facilities. Those NEW YORK — A repeat of the tag line initiatives include the decision to leave “Ding Dong Avon Calling” from a classic the South Korea and Vietnam markets. commercial won’t be occurring in South Avon said it expects to record total Korea and Vietnam anytime soon. charges of $80 million to $90 million Those are the two Asian markets that before taxes, with between $50 mil- Avon Products Inc. has decided to exit in lion to $60 million of the charges to be connection with its annual cost-savings tar- recorded in the fourth quarter of 2012. get of $400 million by the end of 2015, which The balance is expected to be recorded FOR MORE PRE-FALL the company first disclosed last month. in the first half of 2013. COVERAGE, SEE CHINSEE These initial steps in the cost-cutting The company in the third quarter post- WWD.com/ initiative, which also includes a global ed an 80.7 percent slide in net income at-

GEORGE head-count reduction of 1,500 jobs, will tributable to Avon to $31.6 million, or 7 runway. BY account for “20 percent” of the total tar- cents a diluted share, on a total revenue geted savings. decline of 7.7 percent to $2.55 billion.

PHOTOS “In order to turn around the busi- While McCoy faces what many be- ness, we are focused on driving top-line lieve is an uphill battle, she didn’t seem growth and aggressively managing our fazed by the daunting challenge. cost base,” said Sheri McCoy, Avon’s McCoy promised to tackle the firm’s chief executive officer. “The decisions challenges with a slow-and-steady ap- outlined today are necessary to stabilize proach. “We know what the problems the company and begin the process of are and they are solvable,” she told returning Avon to sustainable growth.” analysts at the time during a conference McCoy, who took over the ceo post in call to Wall Street analysts. April, disclosed the cost-savings target The latest steps on the Avon front ap- when the company reported third-quar- pear to be the first of what will be a series ter earnings last month. of changes ahead for the beauty firm. FASHION The initial cost-cutting initiatives are The company said it “expected to expected to be completed before the communicate additional steps toward end of 2013, the company said. the cost-savings goal as it progresses.” In a regulatory filing with the Shares of Avon fell 1 percent to close Securities and Exchange Commission, at $14.33 in trading Wednesday on the CAREERS Avon said that its board on Monday ap- New York Stock Exchange. COME IN DIFFERENT SIZES: Small Stores Sales Tick Ahead in Nov. SMALL STORES saw a pick-up in sales McNamara told WWD that Hurricane during November, allowing them to out- Sandy hurt luxury’s performance for the perform overall retail volume growth month. “About 20 percent of all luxury for the month. spending is out of New York City, and S, M, L The MasterCard SpendingPulse the result for the month for all retail was for Small Business survey, conducted slightly negative,” he said. in collaboration with Wells Fargo, in- While the apparel business had a dicated a 5.2 percent increase among “pretty rough first couple of weeks” due AND smaller stores for the month, excluding to the storm and its aftermath, which automotive stores, a figure that rises to included a snowstorm, women’s spe- 5.8 percent when gas is excluded and to cialty stores finished the month with a 7.3 percent with the further omission of 5.5 percent increase in the broader re- food service establishments. tail sector while independent jewelry The 5.2 percent pick-up comes against stores, rebounding from softness ear- NYC a 4.2 percent rise in October and 5.6 per- lier in the year, enjoyed a 7.6 percent cent growth in September. However, it sales increase for the month. is the second smallest increase of the Apparel retailers — both indepen- www.limcollege.edu/wwd year, surpassing only October’s leaner dents and larger operations — did see growth. The small-store increase peaked good results on Black Friday, when they in February at 10.3 percent. did better than overall retail perfor- “November sales were negatively mance, the MasterCard official noted. impacted by weather events, espe- The November results returned cially in the Northeast,” said Michael small stores to what had been, until Business and fashion come together in a unique way at LIM College. McNamara, global solutions leader at October, a yearlong pattern of posting With hundreds of the industry’s top companies as partners, and MasterCard SpendingPulse. “However, increases in excess of those for overall with expert faculty, a rigorous curriculum, and our prime location across the country as a whole, smaller retail sales in the U.S. The 5.2 percent in the world’s fashion capital, this is a hands-on, professional education — WHERE BUSINESS MEETS FASHION® — unlike retailers showed a good rebound from advance comes against a 4.5 percent anywhere else. the slowing growth in October. rise in U.S. retail sales, again with the “That said,” he continued, exclusion of automotive. www.limcollege.edu • 800.677.1322 • 12 E. 53rd St. New York, NY “November’s pick-up alone isn’t enough For purposes of the survey, “small” is to stem the downward momentum in defined as having less than $35 million small business sales growth that we’ve in annual sales and a payroll of less than been observing since February.” 200 people. — ARNOLD J. KARR WWD thursday, december 13, 2012 7 WWD.COM Fashion scoops Pakistan Trucker Issues Drag On {Continued from page one} “Additionally, we get 14 days to pick up and owner of trucking company Pak containers from the port, transport them PrOenza’s new YOrK POles: Nearly six which are available in a color palette Afghan Goods, said work at the Port to our factories in Lahore, a three-day months after opening its first store on including red, blue and olive green, are Qasim in Karachi has come to a stop, journey one way, and return them back Madison Avenue, Proenza Schouler is made using innovative techniques, such with no containers being moved in or before damages are charged,” he said. scouting its second New York location in as heat-sealing, and are assembled with out. No one from the government has “There are only three days left before we SoHo. During a pre-fall press preview, ultrasound and special glues. stepped forward to negotiate with the have to start paying these. APTMA [All lazaro Hernandez mentioned that Greene Rain Sottosella is available transporters. There are reports that the Pakistan Textile Mills Association] has Street was likely. “We like the idea of exclusively at the Pirelli flagship in inspector general of motorways is set to not done anything about this.” having both ends of the island covered,” Milan, with prices ranging from 149 meet with their representatives. Ahsan Bashir, chairman of APTMA, said Jack McCollough. No word on when the euros, or $194, for the women’s pants The truckers’ demands of the govern- said, “The textile industry is export- SoHo store will open. — JessICa IreDale to 329 euros, or $429, for the men’s ment include addressing issues such oriented and the textile goods meant for raincoat. — alessanDra TUrra as road security that has seen rampant export have been held stranded. The in- HaPPY HanUKKaH: This afternoon, highway robberies, kidnapping of driv- dustry is also unable to procure raw ma- elie Tahari is scheduled to join Israeli sweeT sHOPPInG: DailyCandy is getting ers and extortion, particularly in Sindh terials as the supply chain of the textile Ambassador to the U.N. ron Prosor and a taste of the brick-and-mortar world, at province, as well as what they feel are industry was under pressure.” city comptroller John liu to light the least for the holidays. The online source world’s largest Hanukkah menorah for curated discoveries will open an located on Fifth Avenue by The Plaza in-store shop at The Standard hotels, Trucks create traffic hotel. “I am beyond honored to be starting today. A collection of gifts, jams on Karachi lighting the menorah in the Grand handpicked by DailyCandy editors, roadways. Army Plaza,” Tahari said, who will ride will be available exclusively at The in a cherry picker to light the 32-foot- Standard hotels in New York (High tall structure. “The holiday season Line), downtown Los Angeles and has always been close to my heart, Miami, as well as on standardhotels. celebrating Hanukkah with my family myshopify.com. The selection will be and friends brings me so much joy.” offered through Dec. 31. Tahari’s festive spirit unfortunately “We know from our insights didn’t extend to the Village of East that when digital brands do an Hampton. It asked him to remove his offline activation, it resonates with window displays with a summons that consumers” said ashley Parrish, editor florescent lighting violates the town’s in chief of DailyCandy, a unit of Sheikh

ordinance. Tahari plans to replace the NBCUniversal’s Entertainment & l display with a vintage bust form, which, Digital Networks and Integrated Media. AA

after Dec. 27, will feature the winning The 14-item collection includes Afz design of season two of “Project Runway Warby Parker sunglasses; a Ryan All Stars.” Tahari is a guest judge on an McGinness To-Do Calendar; Photo by episode. — MarC KarIMzaDeH Maison Martin Margiela-Ligne 13 Claustrophobic notebooks and feather unfair load limits and high penalties for He also requested the customs author- J. Crew’s seCreT sanTas: J. Crew will pens; Araks thongs, and Cecily Brown overloading and speeding. ity to waive off demurrage of containers cohost an event with Tumblr at The beach towels. — lIsa lOCKwOOD Export shipments from Punjab are stranded at the port to help the industry. Standard in the Meatpacking District stuck in Sukkur and Sindh, and are not U.S. apparel and textile imports from tonight, featuring 27 top Tumblr bloggers Hall MOnITOr: Hollywood has a fashion being allowed into Karachi, the port city, Pakistan fell 4.8 percent to 2.4 billion from the fashion and photography cycle all its own, governed by the red- said Najeeb Malik, managing director of square meter equivalents for the year worlds. Each member of the group carpet season rather than the runway Master Textiles in Lahore. Cotton and ending Oct. 31, according to the Commerce — which includes Jamala Johns of Miss season. Hence, Los Angeles designer polyester shipments into the country are Department. The value of the combined Modular (also known as Le Coil on Kevan Hall presented his spring signature also stuck at the port. shipments fell 12 percent to $2.9 billion. Pinterest), Jeff Carvalho of Selectism collection last week at his new loft-style “We have not spoken to importers as yet Shaukat Ali, senior manager ship- & highsnobiety, Ben Bowers from Gear atelier timed to today’s Golden Globe because we have signed contracts,” and in ping at Matrix, a textile buying house in Patrol, ani Tzenkova from Trendland and nominations. The salon-style runway the garment business, he said, “especially Lahore, said since brands contract the alice Gao from After the Cups — received presentation, during which models during the Christmas season, even a one- freight forwarders, who have apprised a Secret Santa assignment, a $101 J. were accompanied by a string quartet week delay is unacceptable. Every day we them of the situation, importers are so Crew gift card and the retailer’s “101 Gift playing just out of view, recalled in- are told that the situation will be resolved. far being understanding. Ideas” guide for inspiration. Bloggers house shows of a past era, where a were encouraged to get creative with the small group of Hall’s best customers process — even using Pinterest to make and friends could ogle the hand-worked wish list boards to make the gift giving dresses and gowns up close. His loyal process for their Santa’s a bit easier. Hollywood following was front and J. Crew is making an effort to get center, including Virginia Madsen, Teri more active in the digital space and, Hatcher and daughter emerson Tenney and in addition to relaunching its Twitter Mayim Bialik. account @Jcrew, the retailer has begun “No matter your size, Kevan designs For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. to use both Instagram and Pinterest for the body you have, instead of trying this past year. — raCHel sTrUGaTz to smash things down or force you to wear Spanx. Most actresses really aren’t comfortable in their red-carpet Spaces gowns, but I could truly sleep in a Kevan gown, and they make me look fabulous,” said Madsen. COMMERCIAL Young “The Hunger Games” stars New York Embroidery Studio REAL ESTATE Embroidery, Laser Cutting & amandla stenberg and Jacqueline emerson Embellishments Full service shop to the trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE were getting a leg up on the art of red- [email protected] carpet dressing, both donning Hall for Established Major Import Company PATTERNS, SAMPLES, of over 30 years (based in Los An- the first time. — MarCY MeDIna PRODUCTIONS geles) is seeking a NY ACCOUNT 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Full service shop to the trade. EXECUTIVE to work from their cor- BY CHanCe: Los Angeles-based jewelry Menswear Showrooms Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 porate NY showroom on Seventh brand Tacori Wednesday launched its D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Avenue. This individual should have first short film, “Par Chance” directed at least three years experience sell- Showrooms & Lofts ing in high volume to major retai- by steve antin (“Burlesque” director and BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail lers. This is a full time position with brother of celebrity hairstylist Jonathan ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 competitive salary plus commission antin) and shot by Thomas nutzl. The three- and offers the opportunity to expand minute film on tacori.com features the with a successful and well perform- company’s bridal and fashion collections PLANNER UP TO $115 K ing brand. E-mail resumes to: Wal Mart a Must, NJ Location [email protected] with a nod to its print campaigns shot Allen Platt SRI Search 212 465 8300 waterproof items from Pirelli’s by raymond Meier. Timed to showcase [email protected] fall P zero collection. both the company’s new Web site and its City Lights collection, the film will also MOTOrBIKInG In THe raIn: Pirelli P Zero be used for television commercials and has offered a preview of its fall 2013 future advertising materials. collection, launching Rain Sottosella, Retailer Michael C. Fina will also a capsule of men’s and women’s showcase the film in store as well as waterproof, foldable motorbike via a 30-second teaser on Taxi TV clothing. The high-tech line includes a this month. While the film allows raincoat, a jacket and pants, all made viewers to search the site for each with a water-resistant yet breathable piece shown, the company isn’t diving polyester microfiber. into e-commerce, choosing instead (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] In order to make them extremely distribution through its 450 wholesale lightweight and ergonomic, the pieces, partners nationwide. — M.M.

w13a007a.indd 7 12/12/12 7:57 PM 12122012195749 8 WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012 WWD.COM A True Religion store. Fed Puts Focus On Employment

By EVAN CLARK

BEN S. Bernanke has his magic number. The Federal Reserve, which Bernanke heads as chairman, said it wouldn’t raise the benchmark federal funds interest rate until unemployment falls to at least 6.5 percent from the current 7.7 percent. Previously, the Fed said it was likely to wait until mid-2015 before raising the Fed funds rate, which currently ranges from zero to 0.25 percent. The shift doesn’t change the timing of when officials believe the economy will be strong enough to grow on its own, but it does tie monetary policy directly to a specific target, even if there is wiggle room for the Fed to think on its feet. With prices steady even with low interest rates, Bernanke is focused on the job front. “About 5 million people — more than 40 percent of the unemployed — have been without a job for six months or more, and millions more who say they would like full- time work have been able to find only part- time employment or have stopped looking entirely,” Bernanke said at a press con- THOMAS IANNACCONE ference. “The conditions now prevailing in the job market represent an enormous waste of human and economic potential.” Bernanke’s position gives him great sway. And even though Forbes named PHOTO BY SHORTS him the sixth most powerful person in the world this month, the Fed chief said he could only do so much. Already the Fed is doing more. The True Religion Bidding Heats Up central bank said Wednesday it would pump more money into the economy by {Continued from page one} put out feelers in the summer to test the buying $45 billion in Treasury bonds each Falconhead acquired a 50 percent waters. First-round bids were received in month, replacing a program that previously stake in the brand in 2008 for $100 mil- the last week of November. swapped out short-term debt for longer- lion. Strategic buyers are said to have The Vernon, Calif.-based premium term obligations. been pitched late last year, although no denim firm last month said net income “Monetary policy has its limits,” deal materialized. At least one invest- for the third quarter ended Sept. 30 Bernanke said. “Only the private and pub- ment banker in the retail and apparel grew 2.1 percent to $12.3 million, or 49 lic sectors working together can get the space said an issue with NYDJ is that cents a diluted share, on a 9.4 percent U.S. economy fully back on track.” it is a brand that is functional-focused gain in net sales to $118.5 million. Step one is avoiding the fiscal cliff — a in terms of its trademarked Lift Tuck Manhattan-based Sycamore Partners term Bernanke coined to describe the po- Technology for Baby Boomers, and not in August closed on its first fund, and tentially toxic combination of automatic fashionable enough for buyers who now has more than $1 billion in capital tax hikes and spending cuts slated to take are seeking good brands in the con- under management. effect next month. Bernanke said lawmak- temporary market. Sycamore’s first deal, in November ers need to both address the issue in a way Moross disputed that, noting the wom- 2011, was a 51 percent stake in Limited that does not hurt the recovery and also en’s denim brand has had consistent, Brands Inc.’s sourcing division Mast lays the foundation for a long-term fix. double-digit growth in wholesale and at Global. That was followed in May with Although stocks initially gained on the retail in the department store level. the announcement that The Talbots new support for the economy, markets “We believe that we have numerous Inc. had finally agreed to be acquired slipped back as investors continued to fret worldwide opportunities, including by the private equity firm in a transac- over the fiscal cliff. new product categories, distribution tion valued at $369 million. Shares in the S&P Retailing Industry channels and international territories, Most recently, Sycamore surfaced Group gained just 0.1 percent, or 0.86 and we are focused on maximizing the as a potential bidder for Cole Haan, points, to 656.65, as the Dow Jones brand’s huge potential,” the Falconhead which Nike Inc. recently sold to Apax Industrial Average gave up earlier gains chairman said. Partners for $570 million. and fell 2.99 points to 13,245.45. True Religion said in October it had True Religion’s Whether or not it acquires True Among the day’s decliners were G-III formed a special committee to explore cuffed denim Religion, Sycamore is expected to Apparel Group Ltd., down 6.3 percent strategic alternatives after “indications shorts. continue to search for investment to $34.03; Quiksilver Inc., 4.8 percent to of interest” from third parties. Market opportunities in the fashion and re- $4.01, and Wal-Mart Stores Inc., 2.8 per- and financial sources said the company tail space. cent to $68.94. Online Sales Growth Slows, but Remains in Double Digits

Nov. 26, at $1.47 billion, and of Christmas Day,” said Gian to 9 million. Transactions per year, sales gains have been led by By ARNOLD J. KARR Tuesday, Dec. 4, at $1.36 billion. Fulgoni, chairman of ComScore. buyer rose 4.8 percent, to 1.76, digital content and subscriptions, Last year, Green Monday “What we’ve seen over the past while spending per transaction up 22 percent; toys, up 18 percent; ONLINE GROWTH rates this sales rose 18.8 percent, breaking few years is a tendency for heavy ticked up 1.6 percent, to $80.11. video game consoles and acces- holiday season have stayed in through the $1 billion barrier spending to continue late into While somewhat slower than sories and consumer electronics, double digits. from $954 million in 2010. the week of Green Monday and growth in recent years, online both up 15 percent, and computer According to an update on At first used to refer to the right up until Free Shipping Day, sales have continued to outper- hardware, up 14 percent. online purchasing activity from strongest day of online selling in which this year falls on Dec. 17.” form overall retail sales by a wide Apparel and accessories and Reston, Va.-based digital re- the month of December, Green Free Shipping Day generally margin — more than four times health-beauty products failed search group ComScore Inc., e- Monday is now the second is the last day that consumers the 3 percent gains being regis- to qualify. ComScore noted that commerce purchases between Monday in December and, as in can avail themselves with free tered by many stores. They’ve also consumer electronics purchases Nov. 1 and Dec. 10 totaled $29.26 2011, trails both Cyber Monday shipping privileges from online been a major contributor, in many are being led by sales of smart- billion, 12.9 percent above the and the preceding Tuesday. retailers and still be guaranteed cases the largest, to sales gains phones, themselves a principal $25.91 billion sold during the “While Green Monday re- delivery by Christmas Eve. among brick-and-mortar retailers. component of increased online comparable days last year. mains a very important day for ComScore reported that gains Although ComScore doesn’t buying activity. Sales on Green Monday, Dec. the season, as consumers have on Green Monday were driven by report precise sales numbers for The data for the results so 10, were up 12.5 percent to $1.28 gained confidence with on-time a 10.7 percent increase in trans- product classifications, it does far this season imply that online billion from $1.13 billion, mak- shipment delivery, there is per- actions, to 15.9 million; a 6.6 per- provide percentage gains, for sales for the period spanning ing it the third heaviest day for haps less urgency than there once cent rise in spending per buyer, the season to date, for categories Dec. 3 and Dec. 10 rose 9.1 per- online buying for the season to was to make those final purchas- to $140.95, and a 5.5 percent in- that have outperformed overall cent, to $7.91 billion, from $7.25 date, behind only Cyber Monday, es at least two weeks in advance crease in the number of buyers, spending patterns. So far this billion in 2011. Man of the Week Plus: London- based Timothy Johnny ‘B’ Good Everest is on a mission to redefine the While he may be the first freshman to take meaning of tailoring. home the Heisman, Johnny Manziel’s style Page MW2 is on its way to being upper class.

December 13, 2012

EYE ON LONDON U.k. Designers High Spirits Fired Up for lONDON — Patrick Grant of E. Tautz is among the designers Fashion Week getting set to show their collec- The inaugural London tions during the second edition Collections: Men, in June, of london Collections: Men, from provided a boost to business. Jan. 7 to 9, as the British capital continues to ride the wave of by SAMANTHA CONTI excitement generated by the Olympics, the Queen’s Diamond LONDON — Britain’s men’s wear design- ers are buzzing with anticipation in the Jubilee and the Duchess of run-up to the January edition of London Cambridge’s pregnancy. For fall, Collections: Men, ready to ride the wave of Grant took his cues from religion. swelling sales and publicity generated by the pilot showcase last June. “The idea of sunday best, Fashion folk aren’t the only ones revving kitsch religious icons up for the three-day event that runs from and household arti- Jan. 7 to 9. WWD has learned that Britain’s facts,” he said. Here, Prime Minister, David Cameron, will host an evening reception to launch the week, at he puts the finish- 10 Downing Street on opening day. ing touches on a Fashion houses said the British Fashion blue-black wool Council’s first men’s showcase in June was suit with a tex- such a boon for business — and for London’s international profile — that they’re itching tured check and for the second round to begin. a flannel sport “It’s had a major impact on business shirt in a shade and on our international press exposure,” he calls RAF, or said Clive Darby, the founder and creative director of the label Rake. “The shows Royal Air Force, mean there are a lot of eyes on London.” blue. For more While he didn’t pick up any new ac- on london counts for the spring season, Darby said Collections: the exposure he gained and relationships he forged in June will help to boost sales at Men, see least 15 to 20 percent for fall. pages MW4 Christopher Raeburn, whose show closed to MW6. the June collections, said he saw a big shift in his relationship with the buyers. “By the time we went to Paris [to sell], they had seen the collection already, and were well-pre- pared. They weren’t buying blind. We never had that opportunity before,” he said. Raeburn said he nearly doubled his list of wholesale clients — he picked up such stores as Isetan, United Arrows and Colette — and saw a 40 to 45 percent bump in sales for spring, which he said is traditionally a small- er season compared with fall. For fall, he’s expecting 20 percent growth year-on-year. For spring, Lee Roach picked up such stores as Dover Street Market and the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum in Tokyo. Like other designers, he’s planning to build on the London momentum to expand his collection for fall. “We’ll be introducing knitwear, in- creasing our outerwear offer, and are working on a new footwear collaboration,” he said, but declined to give further details. Patrick Grant, whose E. Tautz label will show on Jan. 9, said he saw about “10 times” the number of buyers in June than he was used to seeing at his shows back when London’s men’s shows were tacked on to the end of the women’s wear shows in February and September. “Usually, we’d see British buyers and a smattering of Japanese ones, but in June PHOTO BY Tim Jenkins there were ones from China, the Middle {Continued on page MW6}

w13b001a;6.indd 1 12/12/12 7:05 PM 12122012190558 MW2 WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012 Men’s Week Ami Chooses Marais for Paris Store by MILES SOCHA ing as an apartment, though not overly deco- rated. “Charming and cozy” is how he de- PARIS — Buzzy French men’s wear designer scribed the long, narrow space, with its point Alexandre Mattiussi — whose label reads de Hongrie parquet floors, raw ceiling and a Ami, the French word for friend — is out loden curtain that can be drawn across the to win more of them with his first boutique, 12-foot window to seal off the store. which opens today on the northeastern edge For the store design, he turned to his of the city’s burgeoning Marais district. friends, who led him to Studio KO’s inte- The 800-square-foot unit is located at rior architects Karl Fournier and Olivier 109 Boulevard Beaumarchais, next door to Marty. The duo mainly does residential the concept store Merci that is perpetually projects, and are said to be involved in ren- thronged with hipsters and young families, ovating the mythic Château Marmont hotel especially on weekends. in Los Angeles. “We think it’s the perfect location for Customers enter to the left of the store in Ami,” Mattiussi said, mentioning the Acne a concrete vestibule Mattiussi painted gold boutique around the corner as an addi- for a “grotto” effect. Black metal racks hold- tional attraction in the lively neighborhood, ing the fall-winter collection hug one wall, which is chockablock with art galleries and while leather-topped tables — inspired by fashion boutiques. antique cutting tables — anchor the middle, Known for his straightforward, masculine displaying sweaters and leather goods. clothes with a classic-yet-hip vibe, Mattiussi In tandem with the store, Mattiussi intro- said he wanted his first store to be as invit- duced the first of a series of collaborations with friends, famous or oth- DOMINIQUE MAITRE erwise, who will create prod- Views of the Ami ucts exclusively for the store. store in Paris. First up is cap maker PHOTOS BY Larose Paris, who did a few styles under the Larose for that are profitable, generate revenues of and March 2012, strengthening his convic- Ami label. at least 500,000 euros, or $650,000 at cur- tion that expanding into retail was the right Mode et Finance, a rent exchange, and show strong potential strategy. The experience also gave him great French venture capi- for international growth. insights into his clientele, he said. tal firm managed by CDC Mattiussi said he is looking at 2014 to At present, Ami is sold in about 42 doors Entreprises, recently took a open another retail unit, likely on the Left worldwide, including Barneys New York minority stake in Ami, with Bank of Paris, and can envision several in America, Lane Crawford in Asia and Mr funds earmarked for retail more units in the French capital. Porter on the Web. expansion, as reported. Looking a couple of years down the road, Born and raised in Normandy, France, Mode et Finance spe- he aims to open international locations, with Mattiussi has worked for such brands as Dior cializes in long-term invest- London and New York among the priorities. Homme, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs before ments in small- and medi- The designer cited a “very encourag- launching Ami Alexandre Mattiussi in 2010 um-size companies in the ing” response to two monthly pop-up stores with a group of about 10 individual investors. fashion and luxury sectors he operated in Paris, in September 2011 He remains the majority shareholder.

Tailor Tim Breaks Out of the Box Wilts to Join spoke suit prices — they average around sold at Superdry’s U.S. stores as well. “It’s Hilfiger Europe Timothy $5,600 — the designer created a Bespoke a big push for us. It keeps the brain useful Everest Casual collection, a line that takes its in- and fresh,” he said. INGO WILTS is about to resurface. spirations “from the East End streets” Everest is also continuing with his col- Days after leaving Elie Tahari, that surround the company’s offices in laborations with Hancock, which will be where he served as creative direc- Spitalfields and includes classic pieces shown at the Pitti Uomo show in Florence tor for the past six months, Wilts such as a towncoat or peacoat with updated next month, as well as Brooks, Pearson, is joining Tommy Hilfiger Europe linings and trims. Rapha and others. For spring, he’s working as creative director of men’s wear. “We made a few interesting pieces,” with Future Laboratory on a 22-piece col- The German native, who will as- he said, using traditional fabrics such as lection that blends the skill and heritage sume his new position on Jan. 14, tweeds as well as jeans and woven shirts. of tailoring with more casual pieces. It will will report to Hans Dietvorst, se- The success of this test led Everest to cre- include Albany collar cotton shirts, tailored nior vice president of men’s wear. ate a ready-to-wear collection that he will jeans and unlined cropped wool jackets. He will oversee men’s sportswear, offer for spring. “It’s about questioning the At the same time, Everest has been busy according to the company. future of tailoring,” he said. “We like the with several celebrity projects, includ- Before joining Tahari, Wilts was idea of being touched by bespoke, but then ing dressing Ralph Fiennes for the latest senior vice president and creative we deconstruct it.” James Bond movie. director of Kenneth Cole Productions The Bespoke Casual collection, whose Everest said his work on “Skyfall” was Inc. He also served as senior vice name he expects to change, will retail for “top secret,” so he didn’t get any president and creative director at around $900 for a jacket, $300 for jeans press about wardrobing Fiennes, Hugo Boss and its Boss Black, Boss and $220 for shirts. “We’re trying to ap- who will take over the role of Selection and Boss Green divisions, peal to the premium end of ready-to- M in future Bond projects. “I designing women’s and men’s wear

ERICKSEN KYLE wear,” he said. couldn’t talk about it,” he said, and accessories for nine years. Beyond that, Everest will expand noting that Tom Ford did a — MELISSA DRIER his successful collection with Superdry great job — and got all the pub- PHOTO BY that launched in 10 European stores licity — dressing lead actor Daniel by JEAN E. PALMIERI in September. He created two Craig. But he was brought suit styles and two tweed jack- in to work with Fiennes. Fiennes for the next couple of Bond films. TIMOTHY EVEREST is on a mission to re- ets and previewed them dur- “It was a low budget for Outside of the big screen, Everest has define the meaning of tailoring. ing London Collections: Men a Bond movie and they also been collaborating with the Rolling The London-based bespoke tailor, who in June. Although he wasn’t were looking for someone Stones during their current world tour. is in New York this week visiting with and sure the jeans-and-graphic- to dress Ralph,” he said. “We’ve worked with them for many years,” fitting clients, has succeeded in translating Ts Superdry customer would “He wasn’t sure what he he said, “and have done quite a bit for the his skills into a variety of iterations. embrace his look, he said wanted — he was trying stage and press junkets.” He said that dur- “The demands of men’s wardrobes are sales were strong despite the to find himself. So we ing the band’s recent concert in London, different today. For many, the formal three- high price points. A town- went with a little bit of one of his assistants sat backstage from piece suit is no longer relevant, but men still coat, for example, was $400 Prince Charles for the noon until midnight “in case they split want to look their best. They also have a so- and a sport coat was $300. final scene where he was something.” Luckily, the outfits stayed in- phisticated understanding of tailoring and “We thought it might standing there in a dou- tact, but she was called into service to cre- craftsmanship — and fashion — but want have been a bridge too far, ble-breasted suit and tie. ate microphone pockets because the musi- something more accessible and applicable but the sell-throughs have He looked the part of M.” cians were chafing. to their day-to-day lifestyles,” he explained. been great.” Everest, who was also All in all, Everest said 2012 was an “ex- This comes despite the fact that “be- A second men’s wear involved in the “Tinker traordinary year for us Brits,” with the spoke is really strong,” he said, particu- collection will be offered Tailor Soldier Spy” and Olympics, the Queen’s Jubilee and now larly in the U.S., Middle East and Asia. “It’s and the company will also “Prometheus” films this year, the Duchess of Cambridge’s pregnancy. taken a long time for people to get into it, add women’s wear. Those expects he’ll continue to dress And he’s hoping the momentum will con- but now they’ve embraced it.” lines are expected to hit re- A look from the Superdry collection. tinue into 2013. For those who can’t afford Everest’s be- tail in February and will be

MW4 WWD thursday, december 13, 2012 Men’s Week Jenkins Tim PHOTO BY

John Smedley “Our brand is founded on a number of great ideas, not least the design and manufacture of Long Johns since the early 1800s. Indeed, Long Johns are synonymous with John Smedley because of this. Of course in the old days the only color they came in was ecru; then in the 1930s the advent of synthetic dyes coincided with the growing new sport of skiing, and colorful Long Johns became part of the John Smedley collections. This season we have taken inspiration from 1930s-1960s skiwear in our own archive and reinterpreted it for the modern gent.”

J.w. anderSon “It’s a continuation of the SS13 men’s collection into explorations of new architectures for Jeremy hackett “The collection, with men’s wear.” its British-made fabrics and clothing, was inspired by the Prince of Wales check. Part of richard nicoll “I’ve been thinking a lot about the idea of ‘the the proceeds from the sale of the collection perfect boring’ and ‘special normal,’ so clothes that are modest and simple, charming, easy, elegant and authentic. I like the idea of creating the perfect will go to the Prince of Wales Foundation.” wardrobe staples that balance classicism and youthful energy.”

richard JameS “Park life, a unique fixture of london life that abounds with a curious, all-consuming life of its own. Exhibitions and exhibitionism, the innocent and the illicit.…it’s an intriguing, inimitable parallel world that rings out with such big colors as the reds of bandsmen’s uniforms, the burnished gold of Fa l l Musings autumn leaves and the deep purples of hedgerow fruit.”

From Gunter Sachs and Redsand Sea Forts to the Shetland Isles and the Wee Free Church, designers share their visions on their men’s collections for fall. — LORELEI MARFIL

lou dalton “Time spent in the shetland isles as well as re-watching classic movies like ‘local Hero’ — a mix of a Texan oil baron and the raw state of the shetland landscape were the foundations i built the aW13 collection Patrick Grant, deSiGner and owner, e. tautz “This season, we’ve taken our inspiration from the Wee Free Church in the Scottish Hebridean Islands, the idea of Sunday best, around.” kitsch religious icons and household artifacts, and the idea of the fractures and dislocations in a close society that staunch observance of the Sabbath creates.”

w13b004(5)a;6.indd 4 12/12/12 6:44 PM 12122012184556 Men’s Week WWD thursday, december 13, 2012 MW5 Jenkins Tim PHOTO BY

John Smedley “Our brand is founded on a number of great ideas, not least the design and manufacture of Long Johns since the early 1800s. Indeed, Long Johns are synonymous with John Smedley because of this. Of course in the old days the only color they came in was ecru; then in the 1930s the advent of synthetic dyes coincided with the growing new sport of skiing, and colorful Long Johns became part of the John Smedley collections. This season we have taken inspiration from 1930s-1960s skiwear in our own archive and reinterpreted it for the modern gent.”

clive darby, creative director, rake “Gunter Sachs and his Saint Moritz apartment to David Niven playing the Phantom in the first ‘Pink Panther’ film. From après-ski to private party. Colorful, fun, witty and elegantly stylish.” Jeremy hackett “The collection, with its British-made fabrics and clothing, was inspired by the Prince of Wales check. Part of richard nicoll “I’ve been thinking a lot about the idea of ‘the the proceeds from the sale of the collection perfect boring’ and ‘special normal,’ so clothes that are modest and simple, charming, easy, elegant and authentic. I like the idea of creating the perfect will go to the Prince of Wales Foundation.” wardrobe staples that balance classicism and youthful energy.”

richard JameS “Park life, a unique fixture of london life that abounds with a curious, all-consuming life of its own. Exhibitions and exhibitionism, the innocent and the illicit.…it’s an intriguing, inimitable parallel world that rings out with such big colors as the reds of bandsmen’s uniforms, the burnished gold of autumn leaves and the deep purples of hedgerow fruit.”

mr. Start “For AW13 it’s again an exploration chriStoPher raeburn “I’ve had a long-standing obsession with in how men wear suits; the Redsand Sea Forts off the coast of they must be simple yet Whitstable. They were built during the Second World War to serve as defensive strong and above all easy gun platforms to help protect London. My inspiration has really come from to wear. The best design reimagining these structures for modern for me is always invisible life and the garments that you might need to operate there. As always we’re yet extremely useful. I careful to bring the collection into a am always inspired by wearable format but it’s been really interesting to use the Sea Forts as a contemporary architecture starting point — so many of our fabrics — its structure and in the Remade range for this season are really functional and lend themselves deceptive simplicity.” towards that environment.”

w13b004(5)a;6.indd 5 12/12/12 6:44 PM 12122012184557 MW6 WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2012 Men’s Week Men’s Fashion Week Seen Boosting Sales, Image

{Continued from page MW1} He added that London’s design- overall has been “really strong,” “We had tremendous reaction to company flag. The London-based East, Europe, North America and ers all have an independent streak with a 12 percent uptick in sales the show in the press and on the artist and designer Aitor Throup South America.” He said his spring — which sets the week apart from over the past two years. Internet. It’s a good way of reaching plans to launch his first full-blown season was a bumper one, too, ris- its competitors. “They’re not all for- “The slim silhouette is still out to our customers and raising collection during the showcase ing 30 percent year-on-year. mulaic. They design what they feel popular, and men have really em- our profile,” he said. next month. Grant said he believes the like designing, and they don’t feel braced color. They’ve also caught The Hackett brand — owned by During the June showcase, men’s showcase has come at just so constrained to be commercial — up with the ladies, dressing high- the Spanish investment company Throup staged a taster presenta- the right time. so the week feels like fun,” Grant low,” said Burstell. About 15 per- Torreal, which also owns Pepe tion of what he calls his “distilled, “There’s a good crop of emerging said. “We all have a different take, cent of Liberty’s men’s offer comes Jeans and has a joint venture with generic product,” which sells men’s wear designers now — James and we spur each other on.” from London designers, includ- Coach in Europe — has recently through stockists such as Dover Long, Christopher Shannon, J.W. Ed Burstell, managing di- ing Dalton, Orlebar Brown, John opened its first Chinese store, a Street Market in London and Anderson, Lou Dalton and Shaun rector of Liberty, said the buzz Smedley and the footwear label Mr. 4,000-square-foot unit in Hong Tokyo; Atelier New York, and I.T Samson — and a whole new wave about London men’s week has Hare, which is also on the BFC’s Kong. It is set to unveil a similar- in Hong Kong. of talent coming up like Agi & Sam, even spilled onto the shop floor. January schedule. sized store in Shanghai in March. He said he’s excited about Matthew Miller and Lee Roach. Had “People are aware of what is going Jeremy Hackett said the public- Last month, Hackett opened its first unveiling the full collection in London Collections been staged on, and they want to see who’s ity generated by his first catwalk stand-alone store in New Delhi. London. “London feels right. It’s three years ago, it would have been doing windows,” he said, adding show last season has helped to Hackett isn’t the only brand such a special time for the city, a damp squib,” said Grant. that the store’s men’s business fuel the brand’s global expansion. that’s using fashion week to fly the and it’s part of who I am,” he said. SEE AND BE SCENE: Things to Do During London Fashion Week

NEW CAFE SOCIETY Buddha-Bar The elegant British institution 145 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7PA Café Royal was founded in the Tel: +44-203–667-5222 mid-1860s and, over the past 150 Web: buddhabarlondon.com years, has boasted patrons ranging from Oscar Wilde and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle to Brigitte Bardot Eric and Elizabeth Taylor. The building, Chavot which was closed in late 2008, has undergone a full restoration — with interiors featuring a treasure chest of gold leaf, Carrara marble and brass fixtures — as well as PETER MACDIARMID a redesign at the hands of David Chipperfield. It is now a hotel with 159 rooms, including restaurants, bars, six gilt-edged suites and even a meditation room downstairs, PHOTOS BY VALENTINO and it will be fully open by March. LAND GRAB GETTYHOUSE SOMERSET FOR IMAGES Vignettes from “Valentino: Master of Couture” exhibition at Somerset House. Ten Room, the brasserie-style Eric Chavot will open the eatery located within the hotel, doors to his new restaurant, has just opened, and features all- Brasserie Chavot, on Conduit VALENTINO’S DAY drinks include the Aviation, made more humble fare, such as little day dining, including à la carte Street in Mayfair, this month This major new exhibition from gin, maraschino liqueur and meat-stuffed dumplings that come breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks with ingredients and products celebrating the couture designs lemon, and the signature cocktail, with soured cream or cabbage and afternoon tea. sourced from the remote corners of Valentino showcases more The Bentley Cup, which includes leaves stuffed with pork, veal and — LORELEI MARFIL of Great Britain and artisan than 130 dresses, gowns and suits gin, elderflower syrup, cucumber rice. The calf ’s liver in truffle producers from the rural regions worn by the designer’s fans, such water, marmalade, vodka and sauce is a study in richness — just Ten Room, Café Royal of France. Chavot has handpicked as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Champagne. Abdulai and his team the thing for cold January nights. 68 Regent Street, W1B 4DY venison from Ireland, lamb from Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren and will also be serving up a selection The restaurant — which also does Tel.: +44-207-406-3333 the Pyrenees, charcuterie from Gwyneth Paltrow, in an unusual of inventive cups, punches and a lovely afternoon tea — is one Web: hotelcaferoyal.com the Massif Central and cheeses — and highly interactive — cobblers, including Fish House of a small chain, with outposts from Bordeaux. His exuberant installation created specially for Punch (cognac, rum, peach, lemon in Moscow, Saint Petersburg and BANKING ON BUDDHA personality is firmly imprinted Somerset House. The exhibition and sugar) and Boston Cobbler New York. — JULIA NEEL The international franchise on the design and decor of the replicates a couture fashion show, (port calvados, lemon, orange and Buddha-Bar has landed in 75-cover restaurant, and in the with visitors actually walking pineapple). — W.D.M. Mari Vanna Knightsbridge. This restaurant-bar- creation of a menu that reflects the runway to view the designs, Wellington Court, 116 lounge has an opulent, Far Eastern his classical training and his which include the pale ivory Knightsbridge, SW1X 7PJ ambience and, like the other contemporary take on traditional lace dress that Kennedy wore to Tel.: +44-207-225-3122 outposts worldwide, offers Pan- dishes. Special dishes include gigot marry Aristotle Onassis in 1968; Web: marivanna.co.uk Asian cuisine. Signature dishes de lapin, or leg of rabbit with black the black velvet evening gown include the Buddha-Bar chicken pudding and apple, and roasted with white ribbons that Julia HER MAJESTY’S SERVICE salad, seared sesame tuna and venison with root vegetables and Roberts donned for the Academy The Diamond Jubilee year is wok-fried beef, while the kitchen jus de liquorice on a menu that is Awards in 2001, and Princess coming to an end, but it will live on has also created special dishes for an homage to French and British Marie-Chantal’s wedding gown in the history books. A notable one, London, such as venison tataki, cuisine. — L.M. from 1995. The show also includes “Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II,” smoked duck and foie gras gyoza. a host of daywear looks, personal has just been released by Taschen The cocktail list features creative Brasserie Chavot photographs and couture-show Books. It celebrates the queen’s concoctions with names such as 41 Conduit Street, W1S 2YQ invitations from the archives at private and public lives through Heart of Darkness and Oh My Dog! Tel: +44-207-078-9577 Valentino’s 17th-century Château hundreds of photographs, many —WILLIAM DE MARTIGNY Web: brasseriechavot.com de Wideville, near Paris. The show previously unseen and sourced runs until March 3. — W.D.M. from multiple archives in the U.K., Europe and the U.S.. Edited by Buddha-Bar Somerset House, Embankment Luggage Reuel Golden, it includes images Galleries, South Wing, WC2R 1LA Room by Cecil Beaton, Lord Snowdon Tel: +44-207-845-4600 and Patrick Lichfield, as well Web: somersethouse.org.uk as more recent pictures from the likes of Wolfgang Tillmans, PACKING A PUNCH Luggage Room Rankin and Annie Leibovitz. On a quiet corner of Grosvenor Grosvenor Square, WRK 6JP Vivienne Westwood has designed Square in the heart of Mayfair lies Tel: +44-207-514-1679 a limited edition of 1,000 covers one of the capital’s newest drinking Web: www.luggageroom.co.uk and clamshell cases for the title, spots, Luggage Room. Step through which costs 99.99 pounds, or $160 the engraved stone doorway and A DOLL’S HOUSE at current exchange, from taschen. into the original storage spot for Imagine going to visit an eccentric, com or at the Taschen shop off travel bags and trunks, and a vodka-loving Russian granny and Sloane Square. — J.N. decadent discovery awaits. Bar carbo-loading with her in her

WINCH-FURNESS manager Abdulai Kpekawa and slightly kitsch, folksy, overstuffed Taschen Books 12 Duke of York Square London,

PAUL his team have created a menu home. Mari Vanna, a Russian of classic cobblers, martinis and restaurant in Knightsbridge, SW3 4LY punches reflecting the energy of lovingly serves up Russian Tel: +44-207-881-0795 PHOTO BY London high society. Statement classics, such as caviar, as well as Web: taschen.com Men’s Week WWD thursday, december 13, 2012 MW7 ENK to Exit Men’s, PVH Sees Underwear Growth in 2013 PVH CORP. HAS big plans for the business. Calvin notwithstanding, Footwear Shows underwear and loungewear divi- PVH is planning a new “soft-hand sion in 2013 — and that’s not count- program” launch for Chaps; an ex- by DAVID LIPKE and August, in conjunction with ing the impending addition of the panded fashion boxer program for MAGIC and Project. Calvin Klein underwear label to Izod; more technical fabrications ENK INTERNATIONAL WILL Advanstar will add a show the stable. under the Michael Kors brand, exit the men’s and footwear called The Tents as part of “Underwear has been a very including a new cotton Modal pro- businesses as part of its the upcoming MAGIC mar- healthy business for a while,” said gram, and a stretch program for acquisition by Advanstar ketplace, as a home for high- Mitchell Lechner, president of the Van Heusen. Global, owner of the MAGIC end designer and directional PVH Dress Furnishings Group. “It’s The Tommy Hilfiger brand is and Project trade shows. brands. Additionally, the been the strongest segment of fur- putting its muscle behind lounge- ENK will focus on build- Street and S.L.A.T.E. shows nishings for over a year. The men’s wear and boys’ wear, both of which ing its portfolio of women’s, will be replaced and fused wear industry is becoming more will launch for spring, Lechner accessories and children’s into a single show renamed aware of the opportunities and im- said. Bright oranges, blues and wear shows, which include MVMNT, dedicated to youth portance of the men’s underwear cat- greens will give life to the label, Coterie, Accessorie Circuit culture. “There’s a whole egory. Underwear provides the male he said. Exploded plaids in woven and Children’s Club. urban culture that transcends consumer an opportunity to add an boxers, fun colorful prints and In January, ENK will fold social strata,” explained element to his wardrobe that comple- boxer briefs in blues and grays will its ENKNYC men’s trade show Florio of the reimagined and ments his style and personality.” also be offered. into the Project New York re-merchandised category. According to The NPD Group, Lechner said American men show. In February, the ENK Tom Nastos, president of men’s underwear sales this year are used to be “tighty whitey guys,” but Vegas show will migrate all its ENK, said the changes would up 6.7 percent through October. now technical fabrics and saturated men’s brands to the Project Las create a unified marketplace To take advantage of the growth, colors have transformed the cat- Vegas show in the Mandalay with carefully distinguished PVH is planning several launches egory into “lifestyle product.” This Bay Convention Center. shows for vendors and buy- and product extensions for 2013. translates into loungewear, too. Conversely, the women’s sec- ers. The Advanstar and ENK Although Lechner could not dis- “Because of the technical fabrics, a look from Tommy hilfiger. tion of Project Las Vegas will shows will operate indepen- cuss Calvin Klein underwear since he can just run out for coffee or to transfer to the ENK Vegas dently of each other going the corporation’s $2.9 billion ac- walk the dog and be comfortable in seeing a shift in buying patterns. show, which will move from its forward, he emphasized. quisition of Warnaco Group Inc., what he’s wearing.” Today’s consumer crosses silhou- traditional home in the Wynn Next month, Advanstar is the holder of the Calvin Klein un- Lechner said in the past, “func- ette lines as well as varied colors, Hotel to the Mandalay Bay set to roll out the launch of its derwear license, is still pending, tion and fit were the main reason patterns and fabrications. It’s a real Convention Center. The split digital trade show platform that addition is expected to further men would purchase certain brands positive move for the industry.” means Project Las Vegas will at Shopthefloor.com. The ser- boost the company’s underwear of underwear. But we are also — JEAN E. PALMIERI be dedicated to men’s and dual- vice will allow Advanstar and gender brands and ENK Vegas ENK vendors and buyers to will concentrate solely on wom- plan, place and track orders en’s brands. with each other, via private In the footwear space, online showrooms. The site Man of ENK’s WSA show in Las Vegas will operate 30 days prior and and Sole Commerce show 30 days after each real-world THE WEEK Johnny Manziel: b in New York will be moved trade show to facilitate the under the aegis of Advanstar, buying process. The perfectly fitted jacket frames his shoulders where they will be overseen Each vendor will also con- with style and minimizes his 200-pound frame. by Leslie Gallin, vice presi- trol a public page on the site The first freshman dent of footwear at Advanstar. to allow consumer access and to win the Heisman Gallin reports to Tom Florio, interaction with the brand. The sharp neck stance and flawless spread chief executive officer of “We are changing the value Trophy is of the custom shirt by Custom Up enhances Advanstar Fashion Group. equation and creating a 60- channeling old- his facial features and is a great choice for The move will consolidate day experience each season school American- someone his size. the footwear shows under around our trade shows,” Advanstar’s umbrella, which said Joe Loggia, ceo of inspired men’s wear he nails the quintessential men’s wear rule of includes the FN Platform Advanstar Communications with his Tallia suit, showing one inch of shirt cuff, and adds a final show in Las Vegas. No deci- Inc., who is directly oversee- touch with a bit of cuff-link bling. sion has been made yet to ing the online initiative. Dion tie and Donald consolidate WSA with FN Shopthefloor.com en- Pliner shoes. But although it’s the right width and texture, a less Platform, said Florio. ters a digital sphere popu- sorbet color would have been more youthful. “We need to go over and see lated by existing online Johnny Football — how the shows work and what fashion marketplaces and whose uncle Harley the needs of our exhibitors wholesale buying platforms not exactly the best accessory to take out on the are,” said Florio. WSA is staged such as Pop-Market, Joor, Hooper, of Harley’s town, but great for the mantel — if it’s a big one. in January and July, while FN Brandboom, NuOrder and men’s stores in Texas, Platform is held in February the Handshake mobile app. dressed him for the The sea of folds messes with the P

sleekness of the look and clashes with the a big night — needed to ultrapolished boot. ams/ R

Next month, Advanstar is b a

visit the alterations department to create a We know he’s only 20, and he’s from Texas, set for the launch of its digital but please keep the boots to wear with jeans enny Ray h

cleaner pant cuff. trade-show platform at for the weekend. buy a lace-up. Shopthefloor.com. Photo by

Yard developed and conceptualized “The best way to show the brand 365 sponsoring and new-media divisions. a campaign that features an original days a year is in our own stores,” he said. In addition, he now controls the MeMo pad Robert Graham man collage by British “That way, people can come in and see development of the 80-year-old Bogner artist Peter Clark. The illustration uses the what the entire brand is about.” He said brand in terms of content and style. PROJECTING AN IMAGE: Robert Graham is brand’s iconic colors and trims as well as the stores currently operating are doing Prior to joining Bogner, Hendrich ready to take a higher profile and has several textiles. well and are helping to “increase the spent the past three-and-a-half years enlisted Yard, the strategic image- The campaign made its debut last recognition of the brand.” working at the Stuttgart-based luxury making agency, to help. weekend at Art Basel in Miami, where Also on Wednesday, the company department store Breuninger, where Last year, the brand, known for the image was projected at several said it signed a licensing deal with he served as director of brand and its colorful men’s shirts, sold a majority outdoor venues throughout Miami Beach, Revolution Eyewear for sunglasses and marketing communications. stake to Tengram Capital Partners the Design District and Downtown. ophthalmic glasses. The eyewear will In other Bogner news, the brand LLC and brought industry veteran The image will also be used in print debut for spring. — JEAN E. PALMIERI has teamed up with the Omni Mount Michael Buckley on board as chief publications beginning in February, as Washington Resort in Bretton Woods, N.H., executive officer. “The company well as in the company’s stores, on its OFF THE SLOPES: Carsten Hendrich has to open a pop-up store. Should guests not hadn’t done any substantial marketing Web site and on billboards and kiosks. been named head of brand management find the size or style they are looking for, in the past,” Buckley said. “When Buckley said Robert Graham is and communications at Willy Bogner they can use the shop’s computer, with a we acquired a controlling interest, planning to open another five stores GmbH & Co. KGaA. He has also 60-inch flat-screen monitor, to order from we said we would expand into other in 2013 to add to the five it is currently joined the Munich-based company’s Bogner’s e-commerce site or other Bogner classifications, add licenses and roll out operating. The new stores will include executive board. In his new role, the outlets. Their purchases will be shipped to retail. Now that we’ve done that, it was a location at the Fashion Show Mall, in 38-year-old Hendrich is responsible their homes or to the store, depending on time to get our branding in line and get Las Vegas, and the company continues to for communications, advertising and the length of their stay. more recognition.” look for a site in New York’s SoHo. public relations, as well as the event, — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

w13b007a;10.indd 7 12/12/12 8:08 PM 12122012200923 Untamed.

The Concept Style Coupé and Karlie Kloss captured by Ryan McGinley and Jefferson Hack. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion THEWWD100TWENTY

WWD’s exclusive survey of the brands consumers know best is back—with some familiar names and a few surprises.

ATHE WOMEN’S WEAR DAILYWWD SPECIAL REPORT • DECEMBER 2012

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Inside

The WWD100 Swatch, page 25 Prada, 6 The apparel and accessories brands American women know best. page 25 The Top 10

30 DESIGNERS Americans Score High Banana Republic, page 14 32 SWIM Shifting Shapes Hit the Pool

34 ACCESSORIES Anything Goes

36 SPORTSWEAR The Sporting Life

37 READY-TO-WEAR Stores and Stars

38 JEWELRY AND WATCHES Innovation Drives the Difficult Sector

40 INNERWEAR Hey, Big Spender New Balance,

WWD100 PHOTOS FROM THE FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES WWD100 PHOTOS FROM THE FAIRCHILD page 15 41 LEGWEAR Dior, page 24 Heritage Kicks It Up Index

40 An alphabetical listing of the top 100 brands. How the Survey was Done

THIS ISSUE MARKS the return of the WWD100 brand awareness sur- minimum household income of $50,000. The survey contained a total vey, which was last done in 2008. There have been numerous seismic of 1,008 pre-listed brands in nine categories, like sportswear, accesso- changes in the apparel and accessories industries, and in the world at ries, outerwear, etc. The respondents were asked to say whether they large, not the least of which was a global recession affecting all aspects were “very familiar,” “somewhat familiar” or “not at all familiar” with of commerce and consumer attitudes and shopping habits. Many famil- the brands. The survey yielded 2,311 responses, and was fielded from iar brands have withstood the challenges and placed among the 100 Oct. 15 to 19. Results are projectable with a margin of error of plus-or- brands that American women know best. minus 1.91 percent. As always, the brands that spend the most on advertising and mar- The overall top 100 ranking is a measure of the percentage saying keting and have the widest distribution—largely in mass-retail chan- they were “very familiar” with the labels. nels—score the highest. But don’t count out the impact of sex, celebrity In the Top 10 categories, brands were ranked only against other endorsement, a well-placed mention on the red carpet or even some brands in that category, again, using the three-level familiarity scale. controversial headlines to get a brand noticed. An aggregate score was used to determine the overall 100 for brands This year, WWD commissioned its exclusive survey with Penn appearing in more than one category. Schoen Berland, a Washington, D.C.–based market research firm. PSB Two ties in this year’s survey make for a total of 102 brands in the sent an online questionnaire to a nationally representative sample top 100. Volumes listed are wholesale unless otherwise noted. of females, balanced to match U.S. Census data, age 13 to 64, with a — DIANNE M. POGODA

4 TheWWD100

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Emmy Rossum, star of stage and screen. Actress, musician, and proud New Yorker. See her shine in cotton, along with fellow actress Camilla Belle, and step inside her closet to see how The Fabric of Our Lives® is the fabric of her life, all in the latest commercial from Cotton Incorporated.

AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2012 Cotton Incorporated.

AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2012 Cotton Incorporated. VICTORIA’S SECRET Product: Bras, panties, daywear, sleep/loungewear, active/swimwear, hosiery, accessories, shoes, fragrance, beauty. Volume: $6.12 billion ($4.56 billion at retail and $1.56 billion catalogue and e-commerce, fiscal year ended Jan. 28, 2012) 1 Owner: Limited Brands Inc., Columbus, Ohio Since its debut in 1996, Victoria’s Secret’s annual TV fashion show has become a national pastime. The extravaganza ranked number one among adults ages 18 to 49 in 2011, said Ed Razek, president and chief creative officer of the sexy brand. The media blitz and frenzy of pre- and post-show publicity—generated online and at victoriassecret.com and through TV and print ads—rivals the excitement and glamour of the red carpet. Rihanna, Justin Bieber and Bruno Mars headlined as this year’s top entertainment. After Hurricane Sandy, Victoria’s Secret loaned its fleet of genera- tors and forklifts to the National Guard to help deliver food, water and clothing to storm victims.

HANES Product: Underwear, T-shirts, socks, activewear, casualwear, hosiery, daywear, shapers, bras. Volume: $2.6 billion to $2.7 billion (estimate) 2 Owner: Hanesbrands Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C. Few brands have maintained their clout and recognition like Hanes, which was founded in 1901 by John Wesley Hanes, who started making men’s socks. Hanes expanded into women’s socks in 1918, and by the mid-Sixties, the company was a pioneer in sheer hosiery. The brand entered women’s innerwear in 1986 with a capsule line of Hanes Her Way panties. It quickly exploded into a megabrand. In 2005, Hanes Her Way was consolidated into the Hanes franchise, and a slew of product launches followed: Hanes Perfect T, tagless All-Over Comfort Bras and the No Ride Up Panty. Armed with an estimated annual ad budget of more than $50 million, Hanes TV spots feature athletes and celebs such as Kevin Bacon, Jennifer Love Hewitt, Jackie Chan, Cuba Gooding Jr. and, most recently, Michael Jordan.

OLD NAVY Product: Retailer of value-priced apparel and accessories. Volume: $5.7 billion 3 Owner: Gap Inc. Old Navy named Stefan Larsson, a 15-year veteran of H&M, its first global brand president, signaling the start of international expansion. More recently, Old Navy opened a store in Japan—the first time the retailer has landed outside of North America. The store, more than 10,000 square feet, anchors a large shopping mall on an island of reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay called Odaiba. Other mall tenants include Zara, H&M, Uniqlo, American Eagle, Forever 21 and Diesel. Old Navy has seen some momentum with denim, specifically the “rock star” jean, and with its kids’ business. It also settled a lawsuit with Kim Kardashian over using a look-alike model in its ads.

LEVI’S Product: Denim jeans and related sportswear and accessories. Volume: $4 billion 4 Owner: Levi Strauss & Co., San Francisco The 140-year-old Levi Strauss & Co., and its iconic Levi’s brand, might be less dominant than in years past, but they remain the biggest names in denim, both at home and abroad. Chip Bergh took over as chief executive officer in 2011, and six months ago, former Keen Footwear ceo James Curleigh was named president. It’s added Waste

NIkE Product: Footwear, activewear, sportswear, accessories, sports equipment. Volume: $17.4 billion (Nike brand, wholesale); $3.5 billion (Nike brand, direct-to-comsumer) Owner: Nike Inc., Beaverton, Ore. 5 Nike appears to be going back to its roots. The company recently signed a $570 million deal to sell Cole Haan to private-equity firm Apax Partners (the sneaker giant bought Cole Haan for $95 million in cash and debt in 1988). Nike is divesting the business, along with Umbro, to focus on its core Nike, Jordan, Converse and Hurley brands. Iconix Brand Group agreed to buy Umbro for $225 million in October. Nike was also in the news this fall for drop- ping Lance Armstrong as a sponsored athlete, after the seven-time Tour de France winner faced doping allega- tions—again. This spring Nike will host the first East Coast installment of a women’s half marathon in Washington. Some 15,000 female runners are expected to compete. A similar event has been popular in San Francisco.

6 TheWWD100

1213WWD100_006(7)a;15.indd 6 12/3/12 8:36 PM 12032012203732 TheWWD100

FRUIT OF THE LOOM Product: Underwear, T-shirts, activewear, casualwear, socks, bras. Volume: $2 billion to $2.1 billion (estimate, including private label and licensing) Owner: Berkshire Hathaway Inc., Omaha, Neb. 6 Fruit of the Loom’s colorful logo has helped the mass brand maintain its all-American profile among the underwear- and-T-shirt-buying public since its symbol was first patented 141 years ago. In 2002, the Sage of Omaha, Warren Buffett, bought Fruit, a commodity-driven, unglamorous underwear maker, out from bankruptcy protection for $835 million. Since then, the Bowling Green, Ky.–based brand—bolstered by an estimated $100 million annual ad cam- paign that included prime-time TV spots during the 2012 Summer Olympics—has bounded back with innovative products. It branched into the premium arena in April with fashion stylist Leslie Fremar, with the Leslie Fremar for Fruit of the Loom Collection. Executives are tight-lipped about marketing strategies, but Buffett himself hawks Fruit products at Berkshire Hathaway annual meetings, where he’s been spotted playing a ukulele with the Fruit guys.

CALVIN kLEIN Product: Apparel, underwear, jeans, fragrance, accessories, licensing, home, retail. Volume: $7.6 billion (global retail, including licensing) 7 Owner: PVH Corp., New York Calvin Klein continues to thrive with its three-tier setup: designer-level Calvin Klein Collection; the bridge ck Calvin Klein line (mainly in Europe and Asia), and the better Calvin Klein label, which generates most of the brand’s overall sales. The brands have more than 800 freestanding stores—including Calvin Klein Jeans and ck Calvin Klein Jewelry & Watches. This year, Calvin Klein Performance opened stores in Scottsdale, Ariz., and San Francisco, with plans to expand into China. Coty launched the Encounter men’s scent and ck one color cosmetics. In October, PVH said it would buy Warnaco Group in a deal valued at $2.9 billion, reuniting the brand with its two largest categories—Underwear, owned by Warnaco, and the licensed Jeanswear.

LEE Product: Jeans, casual slacks, related men’s and women’s sportswear. Volume: $1 billion 8 Owner: VF Corp., Greensboro, N.C. In 1889, Henry David Lee established the H.D. Lee Mercantile Co. in Salina, Kan., and—not unlike Levi Strauss in San Francisco—quickly saw the opportunity in making jeans and other workwear for local laborers. Sold to VF Corp. 80 years later, Lee was well situated when jeans moved from workwear to fashion in the Seventies. Fit and comfort are cornerstones for Lee, which is sold by midtier retailers and moderate department stores. Already one of VF’s better- seated brands in China, it’s exploring greater department-store distribution and is reaping benefits from initiatives like Slender Secret and Slender Stretch. Online performance is strong, with lee.com growing 19 percent in the third quarter.

GAP Product: Casual all-American sportswear and denim. Volume: $5.7 billion 9 Owner: Gap Inc., San Francisco Gap’s recently elevated denim offering has driven the overall business. The baby and kids’ businesses have been strong, too. As part of a reorganization across all divisions of Gap Inc. for an international perspective, Steve Sunnucks became global president of the Gap brand. In other key appointments, Mark Breitbard became president of Gap North America and Rebekka Bay was named creative director and executive vice president for Gap Global Design. While Gap Inc. overall has had a good year, executives are still looking for the Gap division to draw greater traffic.

TIMEX Product: Watches Volume: $700 million (estimate) Owner: Timex Group USA Inc., Middlebury, Conn. 10 Established in 1854, Timex has made an effort the past several years to tap into a more female and trend- conscious audience, continuing to introduce more fashion-forward styles. In February 2011, Gary S. Cohen was named chief executive officer of Timex Group, which includes Timex (Timex, Timex Ironman, Marc Ecko, Nautica, Opex), Timex Group Luxury Watches and Vertime (dedicated to Salvatore Ferragamo and Valentino and the Versace and Versus brands, respectively) and Sequel AG (the five-year-old Swiss company that has ex- clusive distribution rights for Guess and Gc watches globally).

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1213WWD100_006(7)a;15.indd 7 12/3/12 8:36 PM 12032012203732 PLAYTEX Product: Full-figure, full-support and average-figure bras, panties, shapewear. Volume: $600 million (estimated U.S. sales) 11 Owner: Hanesbrands Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C. Playtex has been an American mainstay in foundations, especially since its boldest move in 1955, when it was the first bra maker to feature its trademark Cross Your Heart bras and Living Girdles on daytime TV. Playtex distributes to diversified channels, from mass merchants to department stores, and keeps plugging its success- ful strategy of comfort and solutions for women with fit-specific needs, especially full-figure and full-support products. Innovative technology like the Comfort Gel Strap and hot-melt glue treatments have kept the brand in step with the needs of modern women, and an estimated yearly ad budget of more than $25 million for TV and national print campaigns also keeps the 80-year-old brand in front of consumers.

TOMMY HILFIGER Product: Sportswear and accessories. Volume: $5.6 billion (global retail sales) 12 Owner: PVH Corp., New York Classic American sportswear brand Tommy Hilfiger has seen its U.S. business percolate at Macy’s, where it has an exclusive arrangement. Hilfiger also distributes its merchandise worldwide to more than 90 countries and 1,000 stores. PVH Corp. acquired the brand in May 2010 for $3 billion and has seen strong results. The company has been planting flagships, like its 11,000-square-footer at Tokyo’s busy Omotesando and Meiji Dori intersection and the Brompton Road unit in London’s Knightsbridge area, and stores in Osaka, Japan, and Hong Kong. This summer it signed a lease for a 6,600-square-foot flagship at the corner of Robertson and Beverly Boulevards in West Hollywood.

RALPH LAUREN Product: Women’s sportswear and accessories. Volume: $6.88 billion (Ralph Lauren, Polo Ralph Lauren, Lauren Ralph Lauren, RRL, RLX Ralph Lauren, Pink Pony, 13 Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren; Club Monaco; Rugby; American Living, which is discontinued, and Chaps). Owner: Ralph Lauren Corp., New York Ralph Lauren Corp. is investing “along many dimensions, including new stores and e-commerce platforms and emerging merchandise categories and regions,” said chairman and chief executive officer Ralph Lauren in November. The com- pany sees opportunity in China, where it opened two stores in the fall, as well as in Macau, Tokyo, Hong Kong and South Korea. This fall the firm said it will close its 14-unit Rugby chain and Web site to focus on higher growth globally with the core Ralph Lauren brand. The company found itself in a stir this past summer when it was revealed that it had made U.S. athletes’ outfits for the London Olympics in China. For 2014, Lauren said it will make the uniforms domestically.

AEROPOSTALE Product: Apparel and accessories for young men, women and kids. Volume: $2.34 billion 14 Owner: Aéropostale Inc., New York The mall-based teen retailer in October unveiled a high-tech retail prototype at the Roosevelt Field mall in Garden City, Long Island, with features including a jukebox where teens can vote for the music played in the store, iPods in fitting rooms and Apple desktops and iPads to scan products and read reviews (iPads also have a build-your-own-outfit guide). Aéropostale has been trying to infuse more fashion and to build brand awareness, and hired Chloë Grace Moretz, whose films include Dark Shadows and Hugo, as its first brand ambassador. In November, the company acquired online footwear and apparel retailer GoJane.com.

ADIDAS Product: Athletic apparel, footwear and accessories. Volume: $12.6 billion (Adidas brand, 2011) Owner: Adidas AG, Herzogenaurach, Germany 15 The brand, with its signature three black bars, was founded in 1949 by Adolf Dassler on the guiding principle of sport performance. Originally known for soccer cleats, the brand today focuses on five key categories—football, basket- ball, running, training and outdoor. Although the corporation—whose other brands include Reebok, TaylorMade, Rockport and CCM—expects sales to be lower this year due in part to the player lockout in the National Hockey League, the Adidas brand continues to perform well. Sales in the third quarter were up 10 percent worldwide and 11 percent in North America as consumers embraced the more fashion-forward Adidas Originals line. Its collaborations with Stella McCartney and Yohji Yamamoto also continue to thrive.

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WRANGLER Product: Men’s, women’s and kids’ jeanswear and sportswear. Volume: $1.5 billion 16 Owner: VF Corp., Greensboro, N.C. VF Corp.’s 1986 purchase of Blue Bell Holdings made it the country’s largest apparel company and brought the Wrangler brand—and its ample goodwill amassed in markets from Western wear, where it had its roots in the post–World War II years—to the car-racing world. With two jeans brands in its arsenal—Lee and Wrangler—VF supplemented Wrangler’s presence on the rodeo circuit with distribution in the mass channel, which would turn it into the corporation’s first $1 billion brand. Wrangler remains a niche brand, with major business in Wal-Mart, in Western stores, in workwear and in markets like hunting, fishing and the outdoors. It’s keen to promote comfort and fit, as it has with country-music singer Laura Bell Bundy for its Booty Up jean.

LIZ CLAIBORNE Product: Tops, sweaters, pants, jeans, shorts, dresses, coats, activewear, intimates, accessories. Volume: $600 million (estimate) 17 Owner: J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Plano, Texas The brand that put a generation of working women in pantsuits found a new home at J.C. Penney—and was one of the first brands to get its own shop as the retailer transforms into what’s been described as a specialty department store. Penney’s cut a deal in 2009 to get the brand as an exclusive, and then bought it outright last year. Penney’s chief executive officer, Ron Johnson, said this summer that Claiborne was one of the company’s “highest-performing women’s apparel brands.”

GUESS Product: Women’s, men’s and children’s jeanswear, casual sportswear, accessories, fragrances. Volume: $2.69 billion (2011 wholesale, retail and licensing revenue) 18 Owner: Guess Inc., Los Angeles Guess brought back the original “Guess girl,” Claudia Schiffer, marking its 30th anniversary with its flagship Guess brand, the upscale Guess by Marciano label and the more youthful G by Guess line. Under chief executive officer Paul Marciano, the firm continues to thrive from its risky decision in the late Nineties to make its retail operations the foundation of the business. Michael Prince and Dennis Secor stepped down in November as chief operating offi- cer and chief financial officer, respectively, as the firm works out a tax dispute in Italy. Meanwhile, 12-year-old opera singer Jackie Evancho will front Guess Kids’ fall campaign, and Dannielynn Birkhead, the late Anna Nicole Smith’s six-year-old daughter, is modeling in the spring ads.

REEBOK Product: Fitness, training, sport and casual footwear, apparel, equipment, accessories. Volume: 1.962 billion euros (2011 net sales; $2.74 billion at average exchange) Owner: Adidas AG, Herzogenaurach, Germany 19 Reebok has a long history as a leading fitness brand, but it’s been a challenge for parent Adidas Group in recent years. Reebok’s sales declined 25 percent (currency-neutral) in the third quarter and 20 percent in the first nine months of the year. The toning shoe bust, allegations of fraud at its Indian unit and the loss of a major football contract all hurt sales. To battle back, it introduced footwear technologies ZigTech and RealFlex a few years ago, followed by a partnership with the CrossFit craze. It is now the official supplier of CrossFit apparel and footwear, title sponsor of the Reebok CrossFit Games, and this year it unveiled its Fit Hub retail concept that is part store and part CrossFit Box.

COACH Product: Handbags, small leather goods, footwear, scarves, watches, sunglasses. Volume: $4.76 billion (total global sales, wholesale and retail; 11 percent, or $523.6 million, is wholesale) Owner: Coach Inc., New York 20 This year, Coach launched its Legacy dual-gender line that allowed the brand to cycle in some higher-priced pieces, and to revamp its store design. The brightly colored leather-centric collection marked the 71-year-old brand’s first dual-gender approach with looks that nod to its most classic handbag silhouettes, like the Duffle Sac from 1973. Coach hopes to continue its global expansion as it banks on its men’s business and China for robust growth. The brand recently added e-commerce in China and said it expects to have 125 stores there by yearend. Sales in China should reach $400 million this year, against $300 million in 2011. Other initiatives include growth in digital and over- seas retail. This year, Coach bought back its retail operations in key Asian markets, including Malaysia and Korea.

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L’EGGS Product: Sheer hosiery, tights. Volume: $350 million to $375 million (estimate) 21 Owner: Hanesbrands Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C. Launched in 1970, L’eggs became a quirky mass-consumer favorite with hosiery sold in unusual egg-shaped packs. New packaging came in 2001 with an innovative slope design that re-closes easily to minimize tearing. Updated again in 2012 with easier-to-find sizing, color and support level, the packaging was so successful that it’s now also used for L’eggs Silken Mist sheer hosiery and L’eggs Sheer Energy support hosiery. This fall, L’eggs introduced the new Silken Mist Ultra Sheer with Run Resistant technology for the mass market, a technology that previously had only been available at department stores. The product launch was supported by a “Live More and Run Less” marketing campaign and sweepstakes for a trip to New York and a makeover with celebrity stylist Phillip Bloch.

JOCKEY Product: Underwear, T-shirts, thermal underwear, sports bras, shapewear. Volume: $870 million (estimate, including women’s, men’s, kids’, private label, licensing) 22 Owner: Jockey International Inc., Kenosha, Wis. Jockey, a 136-year-old power name in men’s underwear, vaulted into women’s in 1982 with a tailored, men’s-inspired line for ladies. Besides its bread-and-butter basics, the company has launched initiatives that feature cheekier cuts, slimmer fits and modern detailing. This year, Jockey partnered with celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe on Rachel Zoe’s Major Must Haves from Jockey cheeky-fit panties and figure-flattering tanks and shapewear. Next spring, Jockey will launch laser-cut underwear with no panty lines called Clean Edge, and men’s slim-fit T-shirts and bottoms in stay-dry fabrics.

SPEEDO Product: Swimwear, related products. Volume: $500 million 23 Owner: Pentland Group plc, London Founded in Sydney in 1928, Speedo is the world’s leading swimwear brand, sold in more than 170 countries. It is now a subsidiary of Pentland Group, whose other labels include Ellesse and Hunter. In North America, Warnaco Group Inc. (which is being acquired by PVH Corp.) holds an exclusive perpetual license for Speedo USA. Speedo manages to juggle high-tech performance swimwear with boardshorts and aquatic fitness models. This year, the company unveiled the Fastskin3 Racing System for the London Olympics that included speed suit, cap and goggles. There must have been something to it: Brand ambassador Michael Phelps added six medals, bringing his record total to 22.

DOCKERS Product: Casual slacks and related sportswear and accessories. Volume: $570 million Owner: Levi Strauss & Co., San Francisco 24 Levi Strauss & Co. chief executive officer Chip Bergh wants to return Levi’s little brother, Dockers, to the more than $1 billion in sales it enjoyed during its heyday. Seth Ellison, former chief commercial officer of Alternative Apparel, was tapped in September as president to steady the business—but even before his arrival, work had begun, much of it aimed at giving Dockers the kind of lifestyle brand luster it enjoys in Europe. It aims to revive its appeal with Baby Boomers with the more traditional Wearever series and, at the same time, build bridges to new customers with products like Alpha Khaki, which features a more modern, slim fit and less generic colors.

L.L. BEAN Product: Tailored and casual apparel, accessories, footwear, activewear, outerwear, home goods, active gear. Volume: $1.44 billion (retail) Owner: L.L. Bean Inc., Freeport, Maine 25 Founded in 1912 as a catalogue, L.L. Bean operates 18 stores, most notably its 120,000-square-foot flagship (in business since 1917 in Freeport, Maine), and 10 outlets. The company’s products are known for their quality and Yankee practicality. Its contemporary collection for men and women, L.L. Bean Signature, bowed in 2010 with a stand-alone catalogue and dedicated Web presence, llbeansignature.com. The line has a modern fit and features updated Bean classics like straight-leg washed chinos, checked shirts, chambray shirtdresses and leather moc- casins, as well as heritage items, updated from company archives. It wasn’t until 2000 that Bean began opening stores, but as it celebrates its centennial, the company says more are planned. L.L. Bean stresses customer ser- vice and took the step in 2011 of offering free shipping with no minimum order.

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ABERCROMBIE & FITCH Product: Youth sportswear, outerwear, accessories. Volume: $1.7 billion 26 Owner: Abercrombie & Fitch Co., New Albany, Ohio Publicly owned as part of the $4.2 billion Abercrombie & Fitch Co., which also operates Hollister, abercrombie kids and Gilly Hicks, the flagship brand has instituted faster flow, fewer logos and a sharper focus on runway and street looks. That’s a big part of the fashion fix at Abercrombie & Fitch, which has appeared to turn a cor- ner. The company has been working to overcome slowness in European operations, where there has been some cannibalization of stores, and has been methodically reducing its U.S. footprint to weed out weak locations.

DKNY Product: Bridge and better sportswear, accessories, jeans, fragrance, home, licensing, retail. Volume: $3 billion (estimate, retail, including licensing) 27 Owner: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Paris DKNY will be 25 in 2014—and it’s having a growth spurt. Categories like accessories are gaining steam, and the brand is expanding into new markets, particularly Europe, Asia and the Middle East. In 2012, Donna Karan International opened 48 full-price stores for DKNY—including its 40th in China, its 20th in the Middle East and the first DKNY Pure concept store in Los Angeles—and renovated its London flagship on Old Bond Street. The company took back the DKNY Jeans and Active licenses from Liz Claiborne Inc. in 2011, and has slated those categories for growth this year. Aiming at its target audience, it tapped Twilight star Ashley Greene as the face of DKNY and DKNY Jeans this year.

LANDS’ END Product: Sportswear, swimwear, accessories, outerwear, luggage, home. Volume: $1.8 billion (estimate) 28 Owners: Sears Holdings Corp., Hoffman Estates, Ill. The Dodgeville, Wis.–based company has been building its Web incentives in recent months. In the six days leading up to Cyber Monday, Lands’ End offered heavy online discounts and promotions through a doorbusters initiative, and on that Monday, it had 50 UPS trucks lined up at its main distribution center to get a jump on deliveries. To simplify holiday shopping, the brand created nine gift shops categorized by prices and themes. This fall, Lands’ End introduced a new look and logo for its Canvas Lands’ End line. Its tag line, “Take to the Open,” is a nod to the brand’s sailing heritage. Besides e-commerce and mail order, Lands’ End also has concept shops in Sears stores globally.

THE NORTH FACE Product: Outerwear, sportswear, accessories, outdoor gear. Volume: $2 billion 29 Owner: VF Corp., Greensboro, N.C. The North Face aims to become a $3 billion business in 2015. The brand gained 22 percent in global revenues in the fourth quarter, with 24 percent growth in the U.S. and increases of 12 percent and 41 percent in constant dollars in Europe and Asia, respectively. It has 50 stores in North America, and plans to focus more on new technologies for athletes. The label will help push VF Corp.’s Asia sales to $2 billion. Rapid growth in China and The North Face brand are expected to help VF more than double its Asia-Pacific business in the next five years. The Alameda, Calif.– based brand restructured its shoe division and teamed with Swatch on the Freeride World Tour ski-snowboard event.

MAIDENFORM Product: Average-figure, full-figure, full-support and sports bras, shapers, daywear, panties. Volume: $590 million 30 Owner: Maidenform Brands Inc., Iselin, N.J. The 90-year-old grande dame of the bra business surfaced in 1922 as a dress and bandeau bra maker called Enid Frocks and was renamed Maidenform Brassiere Co. in 1930. The company survived a decade of acquisitions and mergers in the Nineties, as well as a Chapter 11 bankruptcy, emerging in July 1999. Since then, the brand continues to rein- vent itself with creative new products that maintain its presence as a bestseller at national department stores. Recent launches include Comfort Devotion bras, panties and shapewear in plush, seamless fabrics that mold the figure, and the 90th Anniversary Collection of retro styles with a nod to the brand’s Old Hollywood roots. Also new for fall is Sensual Shapes, a line using zoned engineering and body-mapping technology to lift, shape and support problem areas.

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::'BDLQGG 30  Apparel Belts Dresses Eyewear Footwear Fragrance Handbags Home Jewelry Outerwear Swimwear Watches

Trebbianno Showroom | 29 West 35th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10001, T: 212.868.2770 NINE WEST Product: Footwear, skirts, blouses, pants, jackets, suits, dresses, outerwear, accessories. Volume: $821.5 million (retail and wholesale) 31 Owner: The Jones Group Inc., New York Nine West has been busy making friends, collaborating with the likes of Pamela Love, Sophie Theallet, Giles Deacon and, next year, retailer Kirna Zabête. It’s also rolling out a new look to its stores, focusing on trends and featuring The World According to Pumps display. The brand is sold in more than 2,500 doors, across 57 countries.

BANANA REPUBLIC Product: Tailored clothes, sportswear, accessories, footwear for women and men. Volume: $2.6 billion 32 Owner: Gap Inc., San Francisco Banana Republic has been recapturing some of its cool factor after years of mediocrity, partly through a string of partnerships and collaborations with the likes of Narciso Rodriguez, Trina Turk, the film Anna Karenina and the Mad Men TV series to rev up its fashion offering. Men’s and women’s suitings have been a standout, though traffic at the specialty chain remains below company expectations. Banana’s sales were up 8 percent to $1.98 billion in the three quarters ended Oct. 27, accounting for 18 percent of Gap Inc.’s year-to-date volume.

NO NONSENSE Product: Sheer hosiery, tights, leggings. Volume: $275 million to $290 million 33 Owner: Golden Lady SpA, Mantua, Italy (Kayser-Roth unit) For fall 2012, No Nonsense refreshed itself with a new range of tights and leggings in a wide array of fashion colors and patterns. For spring, the brand will offer footless tights, cotton, denim and chino leggings in brights like lime, wa- termelon and begonia, as well as white denim. Julia Townsend, executive vice president at Kayser-Roth, described the initiative as “Lipstick for the legs.” Through its digital ad campaign, the brand has reached more than 150 million women ages 25 to 49 via computers, tablets and mobile devices. Author and TV personality Jill Martin, the label’s spokeswoman, has led a big social-media push with style-tip videos, Facebook and Twitter interaction and a blog.

VANITY FAIR Product: Full-support, full-figure and average-size bras, panties, daywear, shapewear, sleepwear, robes. Volume: $150 million (estimate) 34 Owner: Fruit of the Loom division of Berkshire Hathaway Inc., Omaha The Vanity Fair brand dates to 1911, when John E. Barbey created a resource for silk tricot lingerie that became Vanity Fair Corp. in 1914. In 1998, the brand’s former parent, VF Corp., made the dramatic decision to sell the department-store mainstay to Sears— thus enraging department-store retailers. In 2007, the brand—along with sister labels Vassarette, Lily of France, Bestform, Exquisite Form and Curvation in the U.S., and Lou, Gemma and Belcor for Europe—was acquired by Fruit of the Loom for $350 million in cash. Vanity Fair was seen by FTL executives as the jewel of VF’s intimates business and the company’s entry into department stores.

FADED GLORY Product: Basic men’s, women’s, children’s, infant and toddler sportswear and accessories. Volume: $1.8 billion (estimate, retail) 35 Owner: Wal-Mart Stores Inc., Bentonville, Ark. Founded in 1972 as fashion jeans went mainstream, Faded Glory has been an exclusive Wal-Mart brand since 1995, when it was licensed to the retail giant by Bonjour International, and has been owned by Wal-Mart since 2007. Its assortment begins with newborn clothing, including maternity styles, and it does the bulk of its business at under $20—exceptions include outerwear and a smattering of hoodies and jeans—and has been a consistent contributor to Wal-Mart’s apparel segment despite market fluctuations. While the company doesn’t disclose the brand’s volume, market estimates place it above $1.8 billion, atop its apparel business. A dash of fashion works its way into the ba- sics every season, like red skinny jeans with sequins from the Trend Collection priced, on a rollback, at $15 online.

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FOSSIL Product: Watches, jewelry, handbags, leather accessories, apparel. Volume: $1.14 billion (2011) 36 Owner: Fossil Inc., Richardson, Texas Founded in 1984, Fossil began with watches and has become a complete lifestyle brand with a full array of acces- sories and apparel known for its unique tin packaging, vibrant original prints and exclusive leather goods. In 2012, Fossil introduced new watch silhouettes, including the Georgia and Heather, fusing jewelry and timepieces, and its first Limited Edition handbag sold out globally in a matter of days. Fossil also unveiled collections featuring its ex- clusive Heirloom leather this year. Fossil operates more than 400 stores worldwide and expanded this year with a flagship in Shanghai, its first store in Indonesia at the Pondok Indah Mall, and more stores in Korea, France, China, Malaysia and Singapore. Digitally, the brand upped its social media outreach and launched a Web site in Italy.

CONVERSE Product: Athletic and casual footwear, apparel and accessories. Volume: $1.32 billion (fiscal year ended May 31) 37 Owner: Nike Inc., Beaverton, Ore. Nike acquired the 104-year-old Converse for about $310 million in 2003. Sales rose 17 percent this year from fiscal 2011, thanks to strong markets in North America, China and the U.K. The brand operates 62 stores, including fac- tory outlets. The brand recently has been defying gravity with skateboarders, who compete for big prize money in its sponsored skate contests. It’s straddling the high-low spectrum, from its 11-year-long rock ’n’ roll collaboration with designer John Varvatos to Converse One Star clothing and accessories sold at Target. It has even appeared on the red carpet via Twilight star Kristen Stewart, who’s been known to trade her stilettos for Converse kicks.

ANN TAYLOR Product: Casual and career sportswear under the Ann Taylor and Loft brands. Volume: $2.3 billion 38 Owner: Ann Inc., New York Loft has been the driving force at a healthy Ann Inc. by staying on trend without getting trendy and by offer- ing an affordable kind of casual chic that consistently contemplates a broad audience. Ann Taylor is making improvements by rolling out a more productive, smaller format at 3,700 to 4,200 square feet and offering more fashion choices and less dependence on suits.

NEW BALANCE Product: Men’s and women’s footwear, apparel and licensed accessories. Volume: $2.04 billion globally 39 Owner: New Balance Inc., Boston New Balance, inspired by a chicken foot, got its start in 1906 making arch support for laborers and branched into run- ning shoes in 1938. By 1960, it innovated by offering shoes in widths, and today its brands include PF Flyers, Warrior, Dunham, Aravon, Brine and Cobb Hill, offering apparel and accessories for competitive athletes and weekend war- riors. It’s one of the few athletic brands to produce domestically—about 25 percent of its shoes sold in the U.S. are made at five New England facilities. The nearly 150 independently owned and operated stores in North America include two “experience stores,” in Boston and New York, with a running track and sunken treadmill for gait analysis.

THE ORIGINAL ARIZONA JEAN CO. (Arizona) Product: Jeanswear and related sportswear and accessories for juniors, young men and kids. Volume: $800 million (estimate) 40 Owner: J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Plano, Texas During its reinvention 22 years ago, J.C. Penney introduced The Original Arizona Jean Co.—hip, contemporary jeans- wear for juniors and young men. It became one of its earliest successes in fashion private-label apparel. Still anchored with affordable prices, Arizona has been upgraded with better fabrics, stitching details, prints, colors, fits and washes. Arizona was among the first brands to get in-store shops as Penney’s began its current transition under chief executive officer Ron Johnson. Nearly 700 shops were in place as the back-to-school season began. Arizona had enough “cred” among teens that they began referring to them as “Zones,” a distinction reserved for labels that pass the hipness test. Penney’s is counting on that cachet to help it sell its new concept to teens, as well as to their parents.

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1213WWD100_014(15)a;13.indd 15 12/3/12 10:17 PM 12032012221900 DANSKIN Product: Women’s fitness apparel, footwear, equipment. Volume: $1 billion 41 Owner: Iconix Brand Group, New York The brand that sprang to life in 1882 catering to dancers has since branched out to active categories including yoga and gymnastics apparel as well as fitness equipment. Owned by Iconix since 2007, the brand prides itself on offering comfortable, feminine styles for all body types. Last year, Danskin introduced its first line of high-tech sports bras, daywear, loungewear and sleepwear, licensed to Saramax Apparel Group. Its advertising campaigns have featured celebrities and fitness enthusiasts Hilary Duff, Jenny McCarthy, Padma Lakshmi and Christie Brinkley, each participating in their favorite physical activity. The brand is carried in retailers including Lord & Taylor and City Sports. Its diffusion brand, Danskin Now, is sold at the mass-market level.

GUCCI Product: Designer ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories, cosmetics. Volume: 3.14 billion euros (Gucci division, 2011; $4.36 billion at average exchange) 42 Owner: PPR SA, Paris After almost three years of trademark trauma, Gucci and Guess Inc. finally squared off in federal court in New York in March. Gucci was awarded $4.7 million in combined damages from Guess and its footwear licensee, Marc Fisher Footwear. Gucci creative director Frida Giannini and president and chief executive officer Patrizio di Marco traveled to Shanghai in April, staging the brand’s first Chinese fashion show, with a performance by Bryan Ferry. They also stopped in Korea for the reopening of its Seoul flagship and an exhibition of 80 Gucci archival pieces flanked by works of Korean furniture craftsmen. In June, Gucci launched its Equestrian Collection, a tribute to the 90-year-old house’s riding heritage.

ANNE KLEIN Product: Sportswear, ready-to-wear, accessories, innerwear, legwear, retail, licensing. Volume: $265 million (wholesale, excluding licensing revenues) 43 Owner: The Jones Group Inc., New York The Jones Group has been working on a reinvigoration plan for Anne Klein. The company’s redesign plan focuses on a return to the sportswear brand’s roots and is spearheaded by a fairly new executive team, including Stefani Greenfield, Jones Group’s chief creative officer; Jeff Mahshie, Anne Klein’s senior vice president and creative direc- tor, and consulting fashion director Amanda Ross. The plan is to bring harmony to the design across categories and further connect to the brand’s DNA. Jones inked a deal with Altair, a division of Marchon Eyewear, for Anne Klein eyewear starting in the spring. In September, Anne Klein opened its first flagship on Walnut Street in Philadelphia.

EDDIE BAUER Product: Outdoor apparel and equipment, casual sportswear, children’s wear, footwear, bags, luggage, watches, bedding. Volume: About $1 billion (estimate) 44 Owner: Golden Gate Capital, San Francisco Founded in 1920, Seattle-based Eddie Bauer was acquired out of bankruptcy by Golden Gate Capital in 2009 for $286 million. The brand is sold in about 300 full-price stores and 100 outlets in the U.S., Canada, Germany and Japan. Nearly one-third of the business is from e-commerce, helped by about 60 million catalogues mailed each year. The company relaunched camping gear and shooting sports apparel this year to help burnish its outdoor heritage. “The company had become overly focused on casual sportswear. Our history is in outdoors and we are doubling down on that position,” said Michael Egeck, a veteran of Hurley, True Religion and VF Corp., who became chief executive officer of Bauer in June.

BALI Product: Full-support and average-size bras, panties, shapewear. Volume: $525 million (estimate) 45 Owner: Hanesbrands Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C. Having a Bali experience may sound exciting, but it actually requires little more than a trip to the lingerie department of most department stores. A mainstay of the classic bra business, the brand was created in 1927, acquired by The Hanes Co. in 1970, and folded into the Hanesbrands franchise in 2006. Bali’s established core customers are in the 35- to 54-year-old age range, but over the past decade the brand has introduced a broader range of products in fashion colors and Lycra spandex blends that address different lifestyles to appeal to women 18 to 34. In 2012, Bali introduced the Comfort Revolution line featuring the Smart Sizes Shaping Wirefree bra, which ensures the right size with seam- less shape-to-fit technology that whittles 16 cup-and-band sizes into four sizes: small, medium, large and extra large.

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NAUTICA Product: Sportswear, swimwear, tailored clothing, accessories, children’s wear, fragrance, footwear, luggage, home. Volume: $1.5 billion, (VF Corp. estimate for global retail of all product; $500 million, company wholesale and 46 owned retail, U.S.; $450 million, global licensing) Owner: VF Corp., Greensboro, N.C. Founded in 1983 by designer David Chu, Nautica was acquired by VF Corp. in 2003 and today is the second-largest men’s sportswear department-store brand, according to VF estimates. There are 2,172 branded in-store shops in de- partment stores globally and the brand has 88 company-owned outlets in the U.S., and 179 mostly full-price stores op- erated by overseas license partners, mainly in Asia, the Americas and the Middle East. In September, Nautica inked a license agreement for the India market with Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd. Nautica is the largest component of VF’s sportswear coalition overseen by president Karen Murray, which also includes the North American Kipling business.

ck CALVIN KLEIN Product: Apparel, accessories, handbags, small leather goods, eyewear, legwear, footwear, beauty, fragrance. Volume: $1 billion (global retail) 47 Owner: PVH Corp., New York Mainly a business in Europe and Asia, ck Calvin Klein’s retail continues to expand, with 100 full-price stores operating by the end of 2012. CKI parent PVH acquired Warnaco in late October, thus bringing the ck apparel, accessories and retail licenses for Europe, South America and India in-house. The PVH International division (which also manages the Tommy Hilfiger brand) will operate the ck apparel and accessories businesses in Europe under Fred Gehring, chief executive officer of Hilfiger and PVH International. Ck is licensed to Onward Kashiyama in Japan, and to Club 21 for the rest of Asia.

VERA WANG Product: Ready-to-wear, bridal, lingerie, footwear, eyewear, fragrance, home, stationery. Volume: $750 million (estimate, retail) 48 Owner: Vera Wang International, New York Already established in the U.S., Vera Wang has set her sights on Asia. She opened a Hong Kong store this fall and an- other is slated for Shanghai in January, where she turned up for fashion week in the fall. The 4,752-square-foot Shanghai store will have three bridal lounges, a VIP suite and a separate entrance from the parking garage, among other things. Stateside, Wang will open a store in San Francisco in January. In July, the designer rolled out juniors apparel and acces- sories under the Princess Vera Wang label at Kohl’s Corp., an extension of Wang’s fragrance of the same name, introduced in 2006. The company has also upped the wedding-day assortment it sells through an exclusive deal with David’s Bridal.

COLUMBIA Product: Outdoor apparel, outerwear, accessories, footwear, equipment. Volume: $1.7 billion 49 Owner: Columbia Sportswear Co., Portland, Ore. As established as Columbia Sportswear is in the outdoor business, the brand has revved up its e-commerce site so users can make their purchases based on four activities or 17 types of technology. Columbia offers insect- repellent products called Insect Blocker and the company recently introduced 16 heat-generating products in its Omni-Heat range. Greater demand for its Sorel footwear has helped Columbia, which anticipates at least a 15 percent increase in sales compared with last year. This fall, Columbia stepped up its offering by collaborat- ing with Jeffrey Kalinsky to unveil a line of co-branded streamlined outerwear and boots, a first for the brand.

HOLLISTER CO. Product: Young men’s and young women’s apparel, accessories, fragrance. Volume: $2.02 billion (fiscal year ended Jan. 28, 2012) 50 Owner: Abercrombie & Fitch Co., New Albany, Ohio Targeting teens and young adults, Hollister Co. channels an upbeat Southern California lifestyle in its fleet of 486 U.S. stores and 101 international stores. The company likes calling its customers “dudes” and “bettys,” but the sunny vibe has been mellowed lately by declining comps. Same-store sales dipped 1 percent in the most recent third quarter—which was better than at sibling brand Abercrombie & Fitch, which saw a 4 percent de- crease. A&F has focused companywide on reducing store count and refocusing its merchandise to better chase trends. Those reductions have impacted the Abercrombie & Fitch and abercrombie kids’ brands more than Hollister, and the company opened nine new Hollister stores overseas in the third quarter.

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::'B  DLQGG 30  DR. SCHOLL’S Product: Original exercise sandals, orthotics, foot- and leg-care products and accessories. Volume: $2.57 billion to $2.59 billion (2012 estimate) 51 Owner: MSD Consumer Care, Memphis, a subsidiary of Merck & Co. Merck Customer Care Dr. Scholl’s was founded by William Scholl, an inventor who created a simple wood sandal in the Sixties. Now part of Brown Shoe Co.’s Healthy Living portfolio, Dr. Scholl’s underwent a makeover in 2011 that consisted of up- dated products and packaging and its first consumer magazine advertising campaign. The brand’s name was even changed from Original Dr. Scholl’s to Dr. Scholl’s Shoes, to reflect the size and diversity of the new collection. The company introduced sandals, boots, casual styles and tailored looks, as well as a lightweight Free Step collection and Advanced Motion line for walking and low-impact workouts. Staying true to its comfort heritage, Dr. Scholl’s incorporates proprietary technology, such as a Schering-Plough Healthcare Products–licensed massaging gel.

JOE BOXER Product: 25 categories, including underwear, sleepwear, swimwear, home goods, accessories, denim and activewear. Volume: $600 million to $650 million (estimate, retail) 52 Owner: Iconix Brand Group Inc., New York Joe Boxer’s tag line is, “There’s more to life…than underwear.” Or is there? Known for its irreverent, kitschy market- ing, the brand struck a pop-culture chord in 1985, when entrepreneur-rocker Nick Graham founded it and dubbed himself chief underpants officer. This year, Joe Boxer became the presenting sponsor of the South Beach Comedy Festival. Windsong Allegiance Group LLC acquired Joe Boxer in 2001 for an undisclosed sum, and Iconix Brand Group bought it for $80 million in 2005. Joe Boxer is sold in Latin America, Europe, the Middle East and exclusively in the U.S. at Kmart and Sears. Parent Sears Holdings Corp. has exclusive U.S. rights through December 2015.

J. CREW Product: Sportswear and accessories under the J. Crew, Crewcuts and Madewell labels. Volume: $1.9 billion 53 Owner: TPG Capital LP, Fort Worth, and Leonard Green & Partners LP, Los Angeles J. Crew had a strong year, rebounding with improved styling and product innovation. The company has been par- ticularly bullish on its growing men’s wear business, and methodically is becoming more international. In 2011, J. Crew crossed borders for the first time by launching international shipping, partnering with Net-a-porter and opening stores in Canada. The company is close to signing leases abroad—a London store is seen opening in the second half of 2013, and a store in Hong Kong is anticipated in the first half of 2014.

SEIKO Product: Watches, clocks. Volume: $3.62 billion (year ended March 31, 2012) 54 Owner: Seiko Group, Tokyo Seiko is renowned for creating the world’s first quartz watch in 1969, followed by the first digital version in 1973. In 2001, the company’s watch division became the independent Seiko Watch Corp. In October, Seiko celebrated the launch of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar collection, the world’s first solar GPS watch, with a series of events and an iPad app. Named after the 131-year-old brand’s first quartz watch, the solar-powered timepiece—selling for about $1,800—doesn’t rely on batteries; a patented technology allows the piece to receive GPS signals and identify any of the world’s 39 time zones.

ROLEX Product: Luxury watches. Volume: Estimated wholesale sales of 4 billion to 5 billion Swiss francs, or $4.5 billion to $5.7 billion, in 2011. 55 Owner: The Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, Geneva The privately owned firm does not publish financial data but is the world’s largest single luxury watch brand, ahead of Omega and Cartier. It has 28 affiliates worldwide and relies on 4,000 watchmakers in more than 100 countries. Rolex does not own directly operated stores but works with partners like German timepiece and jewelry firm Wempe, which in April opened the first North American Rolex boutique on Fifth Avenue in New York, under the “Rolex presented by Wempe” banner. Its status and popularity have made Rolex one of the world’s most widely cop- ied watches. In May, Rolex Watch U.S.A. Inc. scored a judgment of nearly $160,000 and an injunction against two Web sites selling counterfeits. Gian Riccardo Marini took over as chief executive officer in 2011, succeeding Bruno Meier.

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DICKIES Product: Men’s and women’s work apparel, children’s wear, footwear and work accessories. Volume: $1.1 billion (estimate) 56 Owner: Williamson-Dickie Manufacturing Co., Fort Worth Ninety years ago, cousins E.E. Dickie and C.N. Williamson bought out a group of their friends and formed Williamson-Dickie Manufacturing Co. to produce a single product: an all-cotton button-fly overall. Expanding into men’s slacks and children’s playsuits, the firm produced uniforms for the armed forces during World War II and found additional markets, like Texas’ oil fields, after the war. Today, the company has licensees covering 17 dif- ferent product categories; a presence in more than 100 countries, and a reputation for American durability that periodically elevates its fashion presence. It entered the Middle East last year and planted a stake in footwear with its 2008 acquisition of Kodiak Group Holdings, the Canadian firm behind the Kodiak and Terra brands.

UGG AUSTRALIA Product: Footwear, handbags, small leather goods, accessories, apparel, loungewear. Volume: $1.2 billion 57 Owner: Deckers Outdoor Corp., Goleta, Calif. With 14 consecutive years of double-digit growth in volume, Ugg Australia has grown from $10 million to more than $1.2 billion in sales. Ugg’s foundation is its sheepskin boots and slippers, but the brand continues to push into new categories, like apparel, outerwear, handbags and cold-weather accessories. Ugg Australia has more than 30 stores worldwide. Last fiscal year, Ugg opened one store in the U.S. and 17 internationally, and this year, it opened a flagship in Paris, the first Ugg-branded store in France. In 2011, it introduced Ugg for Men with quarterback Tom Brady, and it also launched Ugg Collection, the brand’s first venture into high-fashion footwear and handbags handcrafted in Italy.

LOUIS VUITTON Product: Leather goods, apparel, footwear, accessories, fine jewelry, watches, writing instruments, paper, books. Volume: 7.4 billion euros (estimate; $9.57 billion at current exchange) 58 Owner: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Paris As evidenced by the full-size train on set at Vuitton’s fall fashion show in Paris in March—reprised in Shanghai with the reopening of its enlarged and refurbished flagship there—this brand is the locomotive for parent LVMH, generating the lion’s share of its profits and posting double-digit growth in most markets. Jordi Constans succeeded longtime Vuitton honcho Yves Carcelle in November. Product initiatives steamed ahead, like a collaboration with dot-obsessed Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama; expanded writing instruments, and stationery bowing Dec. 13 in Paris. It opened its largest store in Taiwan; its first Italian maison, in Rome, and a flagship in São Paulo, its first global store in Latin America.

EXPRESS Product: Apparel retailer catering to teens and twentysomethings. Volume: $2.1 billion 59 Owner: Express Inc., Columbus, Ohio Express has refocused its merchandise on outfits and is collection-driven, emphasizing casual and wear-to-work apparel, party attire and jeans. David Kornberg was promoted this year to president, giving him oversight of merchandising and design for the 600-store chain. Recent results have been disappointing, but a turnaround plan is being executed involving emphasizing stronger-selling products, clarifying pricing and accelerating global growth.

TIFFANY & CO. Product: Jewelry, watches, silverware, china, crystal, stationery, fragrances, accessories, writing instruments. Volume: $3.64 billion 59 Owner: Tiffany & Co., New York Tiffany & Co. celebrated its 175th anniversary this year with numerous initiatives: It unveiled a new metal, Rubedo; it sent its famous 128.54-carat Tiffany Diamond to events in Tokyo, Beijing, Dubai and New York; it opened a store in SoHo; and it revealed plans for a European flagship on Paris’ Avenue des Champs-Elysées in 2014. The brand’s pres- ence online continued to grow, and besides a strong presence across social platforms, the Engagement Ring Finder app that launched two years ago is still lauded as the industry standard. The company is struggling, however. While sales inched up in the third quarter, high diamond and precious-metal costs prompted a 29.6 percent drop in profits. Tiffany said it will shift its focus to the higher-end jewelry business in 2013.

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::'B  DLQGG 30  TIMBERLAND Product: Footwear, outerwear, sportswear, accessories, backpacks, luggage. Volume: $1.7 billion 60 Owner: VF Corp., Greensboro, N.C. What started out in 1973 as a small-town New England footwear company has become an international juggernaut with 5,600 employees. This year’s revenues are expected to weigh in at about $1.7 billion, compared with $1.4 billion two years ago. The Stratham, N.H.–based brand is sold in channels from independents to better department stores, athletic shops and its own boutiques, including a Chicago unit that bowed this summer. In June, Timberland will open a New York showroom, which will feature its Earthkeepers collection, and the space will be made of recycled and reclaimed materials, keeping with its environmental stewardship. Its Web site offers information about its en- vironmental performance service programs and more. Next year, the brand will relaunch its apparel collection.

CHANEL Product: Couture, ready-to-wear, leather goods, beauty, footwear, eyewear, accessories, fine jewelry, watches. Volume: 6.8 billion euros (estimate; $8.8 billion at current exchange) 61 Owner: The Wertheimer family, New York and Geneva Chanel turned a book project by couturier Karl Lagerfeld and stylist Carine Roitfeld into a roving, international manifesto with a series of glitzy exhibitions celebrating its hallmark: “The Little Black Jacket.” The party began in Tokyo, where Chanel also reprised its summer couture show and opened a pop-up shop, and then traveled from New York to Seoul, and will hit China and Brazil in 2013. Chanel acquired French glove maker Causse and Scottish cashmere specialist Barrie Knitwear via its Paraffection unit. It unveiled TV and print ads for its No.5 fragrance with Brad Pitt—the first time it used a man to talk about a women’s scent—and launched Coco Noir, its third Coco scent.

LAUREN RALPH LAUREN Product: Women’s sportswear, footwear, accessories, denim, activewear, dresses, home. Volume: $600 million (estimate) 62 Owner: Ralph Lauren Corp., New York One of the nation’s largest better sportswear brands, Lauren Ralph Lauren was launched by The Jones Group in 1995 and was brought under Ralph Lauren’s wing in 2004. It is a mainstay brand at stores like Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, Dillard’s, Bon-Ton, Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom, and continues to outsell many of its competitors in the better arena. For fall, Lauren Ralph Lauren staged an online fashion show with InStyle editor at large Hal Rubenstein offering styling tips for this season’s equestrian looks. The brand partnered with bloomingdales.com to bring the concept to life, and a shopable video was also available on ralphlauren.com.

NEW YORK & CO. Product: Women’s apparel, accessories. Volume: $956.5 million (retail, 2011) 63 Owner: New York & Co. Inc., New York. New York & Co. was founded in 1918 by the Lerner Brothers and is considered one of the oldest specialty-store chains in the nation, with about 537 stores in 43 states. In October, the chain, which calls itself a “modern wear-to- work destination for women” with a Gotham touch, launched the first of three limited-edition capsule collections of apparel and accessories with Eva Jeanbart-Lorenzotti, best known for her luxe brand, Vivre. The line features luxury details recalling her jet-set lifestyle, but is priced from $29.99 to $109.95. In November, the retailer also ventured into beauty, with fragrance, lipstick and nail polish.

SPANX Product: Shapewear, bras, activewear, swimwear, legwear. Volume: $225 million to $240 million (estimate) Owner: Sara Blakely, founder, Atlanta 64 Sara Blakely, a fax-machine-saleswoman-turned-entrepreneur, brought a new dimension to shapewear in 2000 when she cut the legs off a pair of control-top pantyhose. She famously says she created the line because “I didn’t like the way my butt looked in white pants.” Spanx was first merchandised in a “pocket” display in Bloomingdale’s hosiery area, and now it makes bras, men’s undershirts and other shapers. New bra favorites include Bra-llywood Hills, an underwire version with a side-slimming fit, and Bra-Cha-Cha, a stay-put strapless style with Spanx’s No-Slip silicone strip. This fall, Spanx opened its first three freestanding stores at Tysons Corner Center in McLean, Va., King of Prussia Mall in Pennsylvania and Westfield Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J.Time magazine named Blakely one of 2012’s Most Influential People.

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GLORIA VANDERBILT Product: Women’s jeans, pants, shorts. Volume: $225 million 65 Owner: The Jones Group Inc., New York Thirty-six years ago, Mohan Murjani teamed with socialite-turned-designer Gloria Vanderbilt and became part of the first wave of status jeans. In 2002, the brand and other assets of Gloria Vanderbilt Apparel Corp. were sold to The Jones Group. Isaac Dabah, who stayed on to run Vanderbilt for a few years after the sale, was nearly reunited with the label before talks with Jones to reacquire it with the rest of Jones jeanswear for $350 million to $400 million failed this year. Vanderbilt and the jeanswear unit rebounded in the third quarter after six tough months, becoming, along with footwear-accessories, Jones’ two strongest businesses during the quarter. Priced around $25 retail, Vanderbilt might not have the status it once enjoyed, but it’s still a key brand at stores like Kohl’s, Boscov’s, Belk and Bon-Ton.

DOLCE & GABBANA Product: Designer ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories, cosmetics. Volume: 1.09 billion euros, or $1.52 billion (2011) 66 Owner: Dolce & Gabbana Srl, Milan The company continued to expand its fragrance and cosmetics portfolio, teaming with Monica Bellucci to front a limited-edition makeup line and launching its first men’s sport fragrance, The One Sport, with Procter & Gamble. This year, the company launched its first watch collection, positioned in the luxury range, and its first children’s wear line, which hit stores in July. The designers also unveiled a couture line in the summer, staging a fashion show in Sicily. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s legal troubles are ongoing, and the designers are to stand trial, charged with tax evasion.

UNDER ARMOUR Product: Performance apparel, footwear, accessories. Volume: $1.82 billion 67 Owner: Under Armour Inc., Baltimore Since founder and chief executive officer Kevin Plank conceived of a product that would keep athletes cool and dry during workouts, the brand that started making compression shirts with performance wicking capabilities has grown into a $1.82 billion business. While men’s remains its core, Under Armour is increasing its women’s business, which now accounts for around 30 percent of sales. It recently named former Theory executive Leanne Fremar as executive creative director for women’s and geared its new ad campaign—No Matter What, Sweat Every Day—to the growing female audience. Its first store will open in Baltimore next year, and international expansion is on the horizon.

MICHAEL KORS Product: Women’s and men’s apparel, accessories, fine jewelry, watches, fragrance. Volume: $1.3 billion 68 Owner: Michael Kors Holdings Ltd., New York While surely a huge compliment, Michael Kors no longer needs a boost like that of First Lady Michelle Obama to drive sales. The designer’s business is growing handily on its own—especially since its successful initial public offering on the New York Stock Exchange in 2011. The growth is fueled by a retail concept that spotlights accessories from his bet- ter, bridge and designer lines. Kors stores are opening worldwide, with 40 to 50 slated for North America during the current fiscal year. The company expects to open 10 to 15 stores annually in Europe and plans 10 new stores for Japan in 2013. All the while, Kors’ personal profile continues to shine as a result of his star turn as a judge onProject Runway.

CITIZEN Product: Watches, information and electronic equipment, jewelry, industrial machinery and equipment. Volume: $3.41 billion, consolidated Owner: Citizen Holdings Co. Ltd., Tokyo 69 Citizen’s biggest push continues to be its battery-free Eco-Drive collection, which uses a proprietary technology that continually recharges the cells. More innovation includes new technologies, like the Proximity Watch that integrates low-energy Bluetooth technology. In August, Citizen tapped Victoria Azarenka, Belarus native and top-ranked player on the Women’s Tennis Association Tour, as its latest brand ambassador. This spring, sports photographer Paul Aresu shot Citizen’s campaign featuring Eli Manning, Matt Kenseth and Kim Clijsters. The ads appeared in such publications as InStyle, Elle and GQ, mainly featuring the Citizen Eco-Drive collection, at $300 to $800. This year, Citizen also expanded into digital advertising for the first time.

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1213WWD100_020(21)a;11.indd 21 12/3/12 10:54 PM 12032012225535 BULOVA Product: Watches, clocks. Volume: $209 million (estimate) 70 Owner: Citizen Watch Co. Ltd., Tokyo The 137-year-old company, an independent subsidiary of parent Citizen Watch Co. Ltd., was acquired by Citizen from Loews Corp. in January 2008 for $250 million. It remains headquartered in Woodside (Queens), N.Y. The brand produces watches and clocks under the names Bulova, Bulova Clocks, Accutron, Caravelle, Harley- Davidson Timepieces by Bulova and Frank Lloyd Wright Collection.

JUICY COUTURE Product: Women’s sportswear, accessories. Volume: $500 million (total net sales) Owner: Fifth & Pacific Co., New York 71 Under the direction of president and chief creative officer LeAnn Nealz, Juicy Couture has developed a strong digital presence because “everything [the Juicy girl] does is online, and that is where our brand has to be, at her fingertips,” she said. Nealz aims to bring Juicy back to its sassy roots. Spring is inspired by Fifties pinup girls, and features leopard prints, rompers, door-knocker-size jewelry and logo baseball jackets. Financially, Juicy continues to struggle, posting an adjusted operating loss of $5 million in the third quarter as sales fell 5.5 per- cent to $130 million, with flat comps. The brand is lowering prices and, starting next fall, refocusing on dresses, knit tops and denim as key categories. Additionally, the company bolstered its ranks naming industry veteran Paul Blum as chief executive officer this month.

RAY-BAN Product: Sunglasses, ophthalmic eyewear. Volume: $1.88 billion (estimate, total global revenues, including wholesale and retail) 72 Owner: Luxottica Group SpA, Agordo, Italy Ray-Ban is marking its 75th anniversary this year with a new collection and an ad campaign that pays homage to its history. This year, Ray-Ban released the Ambermatic collection, a line that references its first aviator sun- glasses, which were released in 1937. Comprising four gold-rimmed aviator styles, the capsule collection incorpo- rates light-sensitive photochromic yellow lenses that darken depending on light and temperature conditions. The glasses complement the brand’s Legends campaign, which hits print and digital media in May.

H&M Products: Global fast-fashion giant creates apparel and accessories under several brand labels. Volume: $16.52 billion 73 Owner: H&M Hennes & Mauritz AB, Stockholm In the past year, H&M steamed into Mexico, Bulgaria, Latvia, Malaysia and Thailand, and will enter South America with a flagship in Santiago, Chile. Despite a tough third quarter where profits rose 0.9 percent, after financial items, to 4.9 billion Swedish kroner ($586.5 million), the retailer said it would open 300 stores (net, full-year 2012). In 2013, H&M will enter home goods and launch an accessories retail concept, & Other Stories; in the U.S., its largest store will open in New York, and its U.S. online store will bow in the summer. Lana Del Rey and David Beckham have modeled for the brand, and its collaborations continued with Martin Margiela, Marni and Anna Dello Russo’s wild accessories.

KENNETH COLE Product: Ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories, fragrance. Volume: $1.5 billion (global retail, including licensing) 74 Owner: Kenneth Cole Productions, New York Kenneth Cole has plenty of reasons to celebrate his 30th business anniversary next year. Cole recently took his company private and, after serving as chairman and chief creative officer, in November assumed the role of chief executive officer at the fashion and lifestyle brand. Cole started with shoes, and now has a full apparel assortment with such brands as Kenneth Cole New York and Kenneth Cole Reaction. As part of its celebrations, the company is gearing up for its first fashion week runway show since 2006. Kobi Halperin recently joined as consulting creative director, and his impact could already be felt for spring. The recently launched Kenneth Cole Collection also continues to evolve with elevated design and qualities for the product.

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CHAMPION Product: Activewear, sportswear, college apparel, accessories. Volume: $2.1 billion 75 Owner: Hanesbrands Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C. Hanesbrands’ third-quarter earnings saw an upswing driven by strong sales of innerwear and outerwear, but Champion’s performance was also a big factor. The company has initiated customer-specific programs like C9 with Target, which has helped boost sales of Champion. Last year, Kathryn A. Tesija, executive vice president of merchandising at Target, spoke about “the incredible growth” of the brand, noting, “We believe we have the potential to continue to grow this billion-dollar brand.” Champion has reportedly seen double-digit growth for the last few quarters. In 2013, the company will launch its Show-Off sports bra, and the moisture-wicking Vapor collection will bow in June.

PUMA Product: Athletic footwear, apparel and accessories. Volume: $3.8 billion Owner: PPR Group, Paris 76 Puma’s roots are in sports but its tentacles reach deep into fashion as well. Its sport performance and lifestyle categories include football, running, motorsports, golf and sailing, while fashion includes collaborations with designer brands including Alexander McQueen, Mihara Yasuhiro and Sergio Rossi, an initiative that kicked off in 1998 with Jil Sander. Besides the core Puma label, the company owns Cobra Golf and Tretorn. It was founded in Germany in 1948 by Rudolf Dassler, whose brother Adolf launched Adidas. It was originally a shoe company, fa- vored by Olympic athletes, and went public on the Munich and Frankfurt stock exchanges in 1986; PPR acquired a majority interest in 2007. Jean-Francois Palus, also group managing director of PPR SA, was recently named to oversee the brand as chairman and he is focused on improving margins and profitability.

LONDON FOG Product: Outerwear, rainwear, footwear, sportswear, cold-weather accessories, luggage, home. Volume: $300 million (estimate, retail) 77 Owner: Iconix Brand Group, New York In the past few years, London Fog has been trying to jazz up its image with more spirited marketing. In what appears to be a twofer for the label’s women’s and children’s business, the latest ads in the U.S. feature model Alessandra Ambrosio and her four-year-old daughter, Anja. Available in the U.S. at Macy’s and Dillard’s, and exclusively in Canada at The Bay, North America is a key territory for London Fog. The company will launch footwear in the U.S. for fall 2013. With more than 17 product categories, the brand is also sold in Europe and Asia, and through its Web site, which launched this year. The brand sells sportswear globally and is exploring doing that in the U.S.

SWAROVSKI Product: Crystals, watches, accessories, jewelry, optical devices. Volume: 2.2 billion euros ($3 billion at average exchange) Owner: Swarovski AG, Wattens, Austria 78 The Austrian crystal maker has numerous fashion collaborations, this year alone teaming with Victoria’s Secret on cos- tumes for its fashion show; creating a limited-edition crystal key collection with Yoko Ono, and working on a film docu- mentary about Jason Wu’s crystal-centric resort line. It also launched a men’s collection and men’s watches. It patented a formula for the lead-free Advanced Crystal—a technological breakthrough for the firm, which started researching lead-free product 10 years ago, leading to Xirius 1088, a lead-free gemlike cut available in 88 colors. Swarovski also has a new entertainment division, and it is sharpening its role in the jewelry market via acquisitions.

AMERICAN APPAREL Product: Retailer and wholesaler of women’s and men’s casual sportswear. Volume: $580.59 million 79 Owner: American Apparel Inc., Los Angeles American Apparel’s focus this year has been on improving store-level productivity and speeding up online delivery times. It aims to reach a wider audience by making the brand’s Web site available in more languages. The company operates 251 retail stores in 20 countries, including the U.S., Canada, Mexico, Brazil, France, Italy, Japan and China. Third-quarter net losses for the period that ended Sept. 30 grew to $18.5 million from a loss of $7 million in the year-ago quarter, while sales increased 15.1 percent, they got socked in October after Hurricane Sandy hit. Chairman and chief executive officer Dov Charney estimated the firm lost in excess of $1.5 million in retail sales due to Sandy. But all 25 stores that had closed were reopened, and sales were showing signs of strength heading into the holiday selling season.

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1213WWD100_022(23)a;14.indd 23 12/3/12 11:02 PM 12032012230337 DIOR Product: Couture, ready-to-wear, leather goods, beauty, shoes, children’s wear, accessories, jewelry, watches, home. Volume: 2.9 billion euros ($3.79 billion; fashion house: 1 billion euros, or $1.29 billion; beauty: 1.9 billion euros, or $2.5 billion) 80 Owner: Christian Dior SA, Paris (Couture) and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (Parfums Christian Dior) After more than a year searching for a successor to disgraced designer John Galliano, Dior named Raf Simons its sixth couturier. For his winter couture and spring ready-to-wear collections, Simons flexed his modernist muscles. “I think it’s interesting to bring part [of minimalism] into the world of Dior, but I also want to make it very sensual and sexual and very free,” he said. Meanwhile, the house continued its global march, opening new or expanded boutiques in Milan, Los Angeles, Taiwan and Tokyo. Dior tappedHunger Games star Jennifer Lawrence as ambassador for its Lady Dior handbag franchise; launched its own seasonal print magazine, and unveiled a holiday collaboration with Printemps’ flagship that includes dolls dressed in replicas of iconic Dior outfits, realized by its couture ateliers.

CASIO Product: Digital cameras, watches, keyboards, calculators, projectors, cash registers, label printers, mobile devices. Volume: $3.7 billion 81 Owner: Casio Computer Co. Ltd., Tokyo Casio was founded in 1957 when the four Kashio brothers created the world’s first entirely electric compact calculator, but it wasn’t until 1974 that the digital wristwatch—the Casiotron—came out. The company released its durable, waterproof G-Shock in 1983, and countless versions of the style have followed, including a women’s Baby-G version. G-Shock’s yearlong 30th anniversary celebration began in August with a concert by Eminem in New York. Eric Haze, DGK and Burton will all release limited-edition watches for the occasion. The first G-Shock store opened last month in New York. Recent collaborators have included Rebecca Minkoff on Baby-G and pop star Ke$ha.

OAKLEY Product: Eyewear, apparel, swimwear, accessories, footwear. Volume: $886 million (estimate; approximately 11 percent of Luxottica Group’s 2011 sales) 82 Owner: Luxottica Group SpA, Milan Established in 1975 and headquartered in Southern California, the iconic and innovative sports brand holds more than 600 patents worldwide, mostly in the eyewear category, where its High Definition Optics, or HDO is used in prescription eyewear, sunglasses and goggles. Over the last two decades, Oakley has extended into men’s and women’s apparel, swim, footwear and accessories. Most collections are produced in-house, with the excep- tion of women’s swimwear, licensed to Trimera, and socks, manufactured by Implus.

GOLD TOE Product: Socks, underwear. Volume: $90 million to $95 million (estimate, retail). 83 Owner: Gildan Activewear Inc., Montreal Gold Toe, whose knitted-in golden toe trademark has been its signature since its inception in 1929, was founded by two German immigrants in a small mill in Bally, Pa., as a men’s hosiery resource they named Great American Knitting Mills. They catered to Depression-era Americans who wanted socks that would wear better and last lon- ger. Reportedly claiming more than a 50 percent share of all department store sock sales, Gold Toe introduced women’s in 1983 and boys’ in 1986. It launched men’s underwear in 2010, and will introduce T-shirts and fleece in 2013. The company plans to open additional stores to add to its existing 38 outlets in 2013.

VERSACE Product: Designer ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories, cosmetics, home. Volume: 340.2 million euros (consolidated 2011 revenue; $472.6 million at average exchange) 84 Owner: Gianni Versace SpA, Milan The company continues to be held by the Versace family, who reiterated in May that there are no plans to take on an investor or go public. As it returned to profit in 2011, the firm, helmed by chief executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris, stepped up store expansion in 2012, particularly in Europe, Asia, the U.S. and Brazil. It also entered South America and Korea. In January, Versace returned to the couture schedule after being off the runway in 2004, and launched an Atelier Jewelry collection. In September, it launched an online flagship on an e-commerce site it controls in a partnership with German firm Netrada. In October, a new 1,785-square-foot Versace boutique opened in SoHo, with a number of cura- tors, from designers to artists, offering their interpretations of the brand through limited-edition products.

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PRADA Product: Designer ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories, cosmetics. Volume: 2.55 billion euros (2011; $3.54 billion at average exchange) 85 Owner: Prada SpA, Milan The group, helmed by chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli and his wife, Miuccia Prada, has been expanding its global retail network, and, powered by across-the-board growth in product, brands and markets, it contin- ued to post gains in profits and sales in the past year. Listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, Prada showed a 44 percent spike in revenues in the Asia-Pacific area. Bertelli, however, has been touting balanced invest- ments globally, including Brazil, Russia and the Gulf countries. The company is expanding Miu Miu with more directly owned stores. In May, Miuccia Prada was celebrated with the “Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations” exhibition at the Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

SWATCH Product: Watches, jewelry, watch movements, watch components, electronic systems. Volume: 7.14 billion Swiss francs ($7.71 billion; Swatch brand, $1 billion, estimate) 85 Owner: The Swatch Group Ltd.; Biel, Switzerland. The world’s biggest watchmaker produces 19 brands, ranging from luxury Breguet timepieces to affordable plastic Swatch watches. Brands include Blancpain, Omega, Longines, Tissot, Certina, Hamilton and Flik Flak. Despite a strong Swiss franc, which makes its products more expensive in foreign-currency terms, group chief executive officer Nick Hayek has stated repeatedly the company’s desire to stop supplying other brands with watch movements through its sub- sidiary ETA. The matter is in the hands of the Swiss Federal Competition Commission, which in May extended until 2013 a temporary agreement allowing the group to reduce deliveries to rivals. It is expected to render a decision next year.

ROUTE 66 Product: Women’s, men’s and kids’ jeanswear, sportswear, swimwear, intimates, accessories, footwear, jewelry. Volume: $600 million (estimate, retail) 86 Owner: Bonjour International, New York Since being licensed exclusively to Kmart by Bonjour in 1995, Route 66 has become the retailer’s most contem- porary in-house collection, aimed at 18- to 25-year-olds, with a heritage founded on the American wanderlust as- sociated with perhaps the nation’s most storied highway. The brand commands its own shops in Kmart stores as well as its own standalone page on the Kmart Web site. Built on an updated jeans assortment that incorporates a range of fits (low-rise, skinny, super-skinny, boot and flare), finishes and colors, the group has grown to include tops and dresses with price points for categories other than outerwear rarely exceeding $20.

JONES NEW YORK Product: Separates, suits, dresses, outerwear, shorts, footwear, costume jewelry. Volume: $709.5 million 87 Owner: The Jones Group Inc., New York Career stalwart Jones New York has branched into more casual offerings and continues to add new tricks to keep up in a highly competitive market, although the brand has had to reduce shipments recently. Its Signature subbrand represents almost half the Jones New York sportswear business and includes easy care shirts, which the company described as an “innovative destination product.”

CHEROKEE Product: Apparel, footwear, home, cosmetics, accessories for women, men and children. Volume: $23.2 million 88 Owner: Cherokee Inc., Sherman Oaks, Calif. Operating under a direct-to-retail licensing model, the Cherokee brand is splashed across myriad products from polo shirts and headbands to rugged boots and bathrobes. While its largest retail partner is Target, Cherokee also holds international licensing agreements with Zellers, Comercial Mexicana, Pick ‘N Pay, Falabella, Shufersal Ltd., Arvind Mills, Eroski, RT-Mart, Nishimatsuya and Magnit. But the unstable global economy has crimped revenues, which fell 14 percent from a year ago. At Tesco, where sales of Cherokee products have weak- ened in western and central Europe, Cherokee plans to relaunch men’s, women’s, girls’ and boys’ clothing at the London-based retail chain in the spring.

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1213WWD100_024(25)a;9.indd 25 12/3/12 11:42 PM 12032012234343 VERA BRADLEY Product: Luggage, handbags, wallets, eyewear, accessories, home. Volume: $460.8 million (estimate, total worldwide sales, including retail and wholesale to third parties) 89 Owner: Vera Bradley Sales LLC, Fort Wayne, Ind. Founded in 1982 by friends Barbara Bradley Baekgaard and Patricia Miller, the brand (named for Barbara’s mother) makes vibrant handbags, luggage, accessories, eyewear, travel items and gifts. The Fort Wayne, Ind.– based firm, which employs 2,200, is an advocate for breast cancer research via the Vera Bradley Foundation for Breast Cancer. In September, cofounder Miller announced her retirement but said she would continue as a member of the company’s board. She will also remain on the Foundation’s board.

BURBERRY Product: Men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, fragrance, beauty. Volume: 1.86 billion pounds (revenues for fiscal 2011-12; $2.98 billion at average exchange) 90 Owner: Burberry Plc, London Burberry is the only British fashion and luxury house that stands shoulder to tailored shoulder with the big European brands. Next year, it will take its beauty and fragrance business in-house, with the new division expected to reach about 140 million pounds, or $224 million, in 2013-14. Chief executive officer Angela Ahrendts said color cosmetics could ultimately make up 40 to 50 percent of the beauty segment. Retail expansion is focused on a few key flagship markets worldwide, as well as a marriage of the brand’s online and off-line worlds. In September, Burberry unveiled its largest store (44,000 square feet), the only showcase of its entire offer, on London’s Regent Street. It’s a test for future units worldwide.

THE LIMITED Product: Women’s apparel, accessories. Volume: $500 million (estimate) 91 Owner: Sun Capital, Boca Raton, Fla. The Limited chain, spun off years ago by Leslie Wexner’s Limited Brands, recently underwent a brand overhaul, and has been emphasizing runway-inspired looks, fit, more modern suits and business separates, and evening dresses, as well as casual sportswear, while trying to keep the look timeless. Also on the agenda: exclusive col- laborations, including one with Sophie Theallet, and carving out space in its stores for Eloquii, the plus-size division. Limited lost money for years, but a higher profile recently is helping to turn some profits.

PINK Product: Innerwear Volume: $900 million (estimate, retail) 92 Owner: Limited Brands Inc., Columbus, Ohio Part of Victoria’s Secret, Pink is an innerwear brand targeting college girls and “celebrating campus life,” ac- cording to the company. Pink’s assortment includes sleepwear, loungewear, bras and panties. The collection is sold in Victoria’s Secret stores and in Pink stores, which, when combined, total more than 1,000 doors. Pink can also be purchased at victoriassecret.com and on vspink.com.

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MOSSIMO Product: Juniors and young men’s sportswear, swimwear, footwear, accessories. Volume: More than $2 billion (worldwide, retail) 93 Owner: Iconix Brand Group, New York Mossimo Giannulli conjured up his brand of East Coast attitude and California cool while observing the growing popularity of street and surf style from his perch in Newport Beach. The company, started with a $100,000 loan from his father, went public in 1996, and in 1999, it expanded to Australia, the Philippines, South America, Mexico, Japan and India. Iconix Brand Group in 2006 paid $119 million for Mossimo, upholding the brand’s relationship with Target, its exclusive retailer in the U.S. since 2001. The mass retailer is lavishing attention on its core brands, including Mossimo, by focusing design and expanding space in some stores. For spring, Mossimo Supply Co. is offer- ing bohemian-inspired peasant shirts and flowy dresses, skinny jeans and colored cutoff shorts. For men, there are brightly colored hoodies, distressed denim and neon swim trunks.

IZOD Product: Casual and active sportswear, related accessories. Volume: $800 million (estimate) 94 Owner: PVH Corp., New York PVH has seen the future for Izod, and it appears to be in golf and at J.C. Penney. The brand, billed as the third-largest men’s knit-shirt label at U.S. department and specialty stores, has at least temporarily exited women’s sportswear— except for some merchandise in its own stores—while its colorful men’s products were among the first slotted for in-store shops at the new Penney’s, where more than 600 such showcases opened in September. U.S. Open (golf) win- ner Webb Simpson signed on to endorse the brand, starting in 2013, as its commitment to the sport grows. It remains a title sponsor of the IndyCar Series, backing Team Penske and driver Ryan Briscoe. Izod, an emblem of Eighties preppy style (included in 1980’s The Official Preppy Handbook) expects to reinforce that position in coming seasons.

SAMSONITE Product: Luggage, suitcases, travel bags, laptop bags, backpacks. Volume: $1.56 billion (total global revenues, including wholesale and retail) 95 Owner: Samsonite International S.A., Hong Kong One of the world’s best-known luggage makers, Samsonite is in expansion mode. Just three years ago, that might have seemed like a tall order, as the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy on its American retail business. Samsonite restructured its headquarters, reduced departments and emerged from bankruptcy. Now the com- pany, listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange, is growing, thanks to a renewed investment in marketing and product development aimed at different global markets such as Asia—specifically, China, Korea and India. The brand makes its namesake line, as well as its lower-priced American Tourister brand. For the upscale traveler, Samsonite in August acquired high-end luggage and leather-goods maker Hartmann, for $35 million.

GIORGIO ARMANI Product: Designer ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories, cosmetics, home goods. Volume: 2.61 billion euros ($3.63 billion at average exchange; wholesale, including licensed products, in 2011) 96 Owner: Giorgio Armani SpA, Milan China has been a focus for Giorgio Armani, as it staged “One Night Only in Beijing” in May, with more than 1,000 guests, marking more than a decade of selling in China. Last year showed a 45 percent jump in the group’s sales there. Armani also is expanding its business in India and Korea. Emporio Armani returned to Madison Avenue as part of a U.S. push, and in October, Armani parted with U.K. retail partner Club 21 and is taking control of its operations there. Armani created new looks for Lady Gaga’s Born This Way tour, and in the summer, he reunited with costume designer Lindy Hemming to dress actor Christian Bale for his role as Batman in The Dark Knight Rises. In May, the designer unveiled the collection created for the Italian Olympic Team.

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON Product: Motorcycles and related products, including apparel and accessories. Volume: $274.1 million (general merchandise sales, excluding motorcycles, including sourced and licensed product) 97 Owner: Harley-Davidson Motor Co., Milwaukee. Harley-Davidson’s General Merchandise unit comprises apparel and accessories, gifts and collectibles. Most of the lines are designed and produced in-house and sold only in its network of 1,468 independent dealers in more than 80 countries. It expanded its licensing pact with Viva International for fashion eyewear, signed a deal with Wiley X for performance eyewear, and expanded its licensing agreement with VF International to include men’s perfor- mance knitwear as part of a strategic expansion of its performance product categories, under the MotorClothes label. E-commerce is planned for 2013.

CANDIE’S Product: Apparel, footwear, accessories, eyewear, swim, intimates, home, beauty. Volume: $400 million (estimate, global retail) 98 Owner: Iconix Brand Group Inc., New York What began as a popular footwear label in the late Seventies with the introduction of the “slide,” or high-heel mule, has since grown to include apparel, accessories, eyewear and swim. The brand has exclusive U.S. distri- bution in Kohl’s. Launches in 2012 included a multicategory beauty collection comprising color cosmetics, nail polish, fragrance, bath and body care. Eyewear licensee Viva International unveiled a prescription-ready sun- glasses collection for spring. Known for tapping multitalented ingenues such as a young Britney Spears, Jenny McCarthy and Carmen Electra for its provocative ads, Candie’s this year enlisted Glee star Lea Michele.

L.E.I. Product: Junior and girls’ jeans and related sportswear, footwear and innerwear. Volume: $150 million (estimate) 99 Owner: The Jones Group Inc., New York Now in its 10th year as part of The Jones Group Inc. and its fourth as part of Wal-Mart’s exclusive brand portfolio, L.E.I. has begun to show signs of life after a prolonged slide. Jones had struggled with the acquisition as the label, long a powerful junior jeans brand, lost many of its once-loyal teen followers. Rather than compete against great- er competition in department and specialty stores, Jones opted to forge an exclusive relationship with Wal-Mart. Although troubled in 2011 by what Jones termed “competing new product initiatives and price compression,” the label—energized with color, print and skinny silhouettes—has bounced back this year. While still shy of its peak of nearly $250 million, it’s now estimated to be at more than twice its $70 million trough, with its improvement cited when Jones reported an 8.1 percent jump in domestic jeanswear revenues in the third quarter, to $202.3 million.

VANS Product: Skateboard-inspired footwear and apparel. Volume: Nearly $1.5 billion 100 Owner: VF Corp., Greensboro, N.C. The 46-year-old Vans brand, a mainstay of customers keen on the skate lifestyle that wrapped up its 18th Vans Warped Tour with rising rock bands, has sponsored global skate and surf contests and hosted a series of parties in Brooklyn to elevate brand awareness in the Northeast. With nearly 7 million Facebook fans, it’s spreading its sig- nature checkerboard pattern across pop culture, and has awarded more than $175,000 to high school art programs over the past three years. It’s also growing through new stores (currently at 347) and products—launching LXVI performance footwear in June—and a focus on markets like China, Australia and northern and central Europe. It sells in more than 170 countries and opened distribution in India and Vietnam in the last 18 months.

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1213WWD100_028a;11.indd 28 12/3/12 11:23 PM 12032012232340 TSG SALUTES THE WWD 100

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THERE’S NO DENYING the fact preppy-with-a-twist offers a novel Barclays Center, Brooklyn’s new golf campaign, featuring Keegan that when it comes to brand aware- vision of East Coast dress codes, sports and entertainment venue, Bradley, Hilfiger’s golf ambassa- ness, American consumers like to and Ralph Lauren, like no other and the Brooklyn Nets, which in- dor and 2011 PGA Championship keep things close to home. U.S. designer, embodies quintes- cludes Calvin Klein branding on winner. Ads will run from the In this year’s top-10 list of most- sential luxury rendered through an courtside seats, TV-visible court- West Side Highway to the tip of recognized designer brands, Calvin American lens and peppered with side and baseline signage, branded the 200-yard fairway, including

Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph an Anglophile sensibility. backdrops during marquee events entrance signage, parking-garage Giannoni; Giovanni en by R

Lauren take the three top spots— au Brand proclivities aside, these and a major advertising presence. banners, T-divider patches, tower l h e & Gabbana by Giovanni Giannoni; Giovanni e & Gabbana by P

and for good reason. Each of these three brands are also masters at The venue will feature a Calvin banners, point-of-sale graphics C brands stands for a particular conveying their messages to con- Klein Courtside Club and a Calvin and elevator door wraps. That— a; Dol genre of Americana that U.S. con- sumers. Each embraces innova- Klein VIP Entrance on Atlantic and The Hilfigers campaign, R t Mit

sumers react to emotionally, and tive, on-pulse ways to heighten Avenue in Brooklyn. It won’t just which has a heavy rotation dur- R likely identify with. brand awareness. Case in point, keep the brand name front and ing the holiday period, in par-

Calvin Klein, for instance, is a Calvin Klein, which continues center at this important venue, but ticular—should keep the brand in Robe by ny homegrown megabrand with an of- to turn heads with ads that are with so many sports fans on hand front of consumers.

fering that spans three retail tiers sexy, sensual, sometimes pro - year-round, it is sure to also Giannoni; Ral Giovanni uitton by v

(designer, bridge and better) and vocative and almost always in- help sales of the Calvin Klein quino ouis a l i;

a variety of categories. Even if its novative. Working with model Performance line. Designer Top 10 R namesake founder has long left the Lara Stone, the fall campaign for Sports are a key market- by John by

1. Calvin Klein G company, the brand—under PVH Calvin Klein Underwear, for in- ing tool elsewhere, as well. In e Maest 2. Tommy Hilfiger D

Corp.’s strong management, and stance, was digitally focused and May, Tommy Hilfiger signed a Wan R

3. Ralph Lauren e v i by Davi i by with design talent like Francisco launched on YouTube in the sum- a sponsorship deal with the Giannoni; DK Giovanni a; Chanel by R

4. Gucci CC Costa, Kevin Carrigan and Italo mer. The brand is not just pio - Golf Club at Chelsea Piers in

5. Vera Wang t Mit R

Zucchelli—continues to provide a neering the online world. In May, New York. The partnership 6. DKNY e Chinsee; sleek and sexy version of American Calvin Klein Inc. also formed a secures prime advertising 7. Louis Vuitton RG cool. Tommy Hilfiger’s take on strategic marketing alliance with placement for the spring 2013 8. Chanel Geo by R e

9. Dolce & Gabbana G ilfi

10. Giorgio Armani h y ani by Giovanni Giannoni; Gu Giovanni ani by MM o t Calvin Klein Photo by Robe Klein Photo by Calvin 30 TheWWD100 aRM

1213WWD100_030a(31);13.indd 30 12/3/12 11:51 PM 12032012235229 The Top 10: Designers American Desig ners Score High Gucci Louis Ralph Tommy Vera Vuitton Lauren Hilfiger Wang

For anyone who watched shy daughter of Princess Caroline wedding bands at Zales. innovative runway shows that, if the past Summer Olympics in of Monaco and high-profile mem- DKNY, also in expansion nothing else, further boost sales London, it was hard to escape ber of the international jet set, as mode, in the past year alone of the house’s leather goods, and Ralph Lauren’s stamp. The de- an ambassador for Gucci’s eques- added 48 new full-price stores collaborations like the one with signer created the looks for the trian roots, and the face of its and brought the bridge and bet- Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Forever Now advertising. She’s ter sportswear brand to Russia, last summer. Ditto Chanel, where

en by Giovanni Giannoni; Giovanni en by teams, from the opening to clos- not the only of-the-moment face Vietnam, Indonesia, Abu Dhabi there’s no stopping Karl Lagerfeld. R au ing ceremonies to casual village l the brand is capitalizing on. In and Qatar. DKNY is also highly When he staged the spring runway h e & Gabbana by Giovanni Giannoni; Giovanni e & Gabbana by P

C wear. While the company found September, Gucci creative direc- active in the social-media world. show for Chanel amid an instal- itself at the center of a tempest tor Frida Giannini dressed singer Its Twitter personality DKNY PR lation of giant wind turbines and a; Dol R after it was revealed that the and fashion plate Florence Welch GIRL is among the most popular solar panels, he let the world know t Mit

R uniforms were made in China, for Florence + the Machine’s in fashion and, at press time, had that the brand’s source of power it nonetheless garnered much Ceremonials three-month U.S. and more than 420,000 followers. comes quite naturally.

by Robe by media attention—and Lauren European tour. The rest of the designer-specific Dolce & Gabbana recently ny was able to turn that to his favor Coming in at number five, Vera survey belongs to the Europeans: made news for folding its pop-

uitton by Giovanni Giannoni; Ral Giovanni uitton by when he vowed to manufacture Wang has seen its reach grow sig- French houses Louis Vuitton and ular diffusion line D&G into v

quino the uniforms in the U.S. for the nificantly in the past year. Besides Chanel come in at seven and eight, the signature brand, allowing ouis a l i;

R 2014 Olympics. The designer also her high-profile bridal and ready- respectively, while Italian design- it to grow. And during the last has a visible presence in tennis, to-wear collections, Wang has a er brands Dolce & Gabbana and round of Milan runway shows in by John by G e Maest creating the uniforms for both significant presence at Kohl’s with Giorgio Armani are in positions September, Giorgio Armani un- D

a Wan Wimbledon and the U.S. Open. Simply Vera Vera Wang and the nine and 10. Each of these four veiled an exhibition of his clothes R e v i by Davi i by a; Chanel by Giovanni Giannoni; DK Giovanni a; Chanel by Gucci, in fourth position, Princess Vera Wang junior collec- come with profound luxury histo- called “Eccentrico.” The striking R CC knows a hot commodity when tion. She also offers more afford- ries—and significant advertising lineup included a couple of num- t Mit R

e Chinsee; it sees one. The Italian fash- ably priced bridal gowns through and marketing budgets to boot. At bers worn by Lady Gaga—now RG ion company secured Charlotte a deal with David’s Bridal, and Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs contin- there’s a way to garner instant Casiraghi, the beautiful yet press- the Vera Wang Love collection of ues to collect critical acclaim with brand awareness. by Geo by R e G

ilfi The Top 10 h

y 1. Calvin Klein ani by Giovanni Giannoni; Gu Giovanni ani by MM

o 2. Tommy Hilfiger t Calvin Klein Photo by Robe Klein Photo by Calvin aRM TheWWD100 31 3. Ralph Lauren 4. Gucci 5. Vera Wang 6. DKNY 1213WWD100_030a(31);13.indd 31 12/3/12 11:51 PM 12032012235229 7. Louis Vuitton 8. Chanel 9. Dolce & Gabbana 10. Giorgio Armani The Top 10: Swim Shifting Shapes Hit the Pool By Jean E. Palmieri

ACTIVEWEAR REFERENCES, swimmers,” he said, “and—no pun Tankinis and one-piece will also be important. updated styles and a sea of bright intended—as the leading brand in silhouettes with zip Kevin Carrigan, global colors and patterns have sparked fitness and aquatics, we think we fronts are popular, and creative director for ck strong sales in swimwear. can raise the water level.” bikinis are having a re- Calvin Klein and Calvin With men’s lengths shortening Gerson said the “customer re- surgence. Klein White Label, said and the women’s market embrac- wards us when we stay true to In men’s, bright col- the key men’s silhouette ing sporty fashion, consumers are trend,” and Speedo’s sales at its ors and colorblocking, will be clean, in a short- stocking up on new suits, a trend core retailers, which include sport- along with shorter lengths er length, with an elastic that manufacturers believe will ing-goods and department stores, in boardshort silhouettes, waistband and a technical continue into 2013. are running up double digits over are driving sales. Prints Speedo’s muscle- stretch fabric. “It’s very According to market research last year. Next year, the brand will have also continued to back logo one- Hollywood,” he said. firm The NPD Group, sales of adult be rolling out an initiative to add dominate. Nautica pro- piece suit. In women’s, more ath- swimwear for the 12 months ended “aquatic zones” at these stores duces three men’s and letic styles are among key Sept. 30, 2012, rose 8.5 percent to to lure consumers into the water. four women’s collections a trends and include a modern $3.5 billion from $3.2 billion the Aquatic zones offer swimsuits and year, and the styles and color one-piece with a racer back and prior year. Men’s sales were on fire, related fitness products, such as palette always relate to the a tank silhouette with a zipper and jumping 23.2 percent in the period, flotation belts and aquatic barbells. main sportswear collection, Vicari a shot of electric blue. while women’s growth was more “We’ve had a great reaction to this said. “From what we see from our At fifth-ranked Tommy Hilfiger, moderate, rising 5.8 percent. initiative,” he added. “We see re- retail partners, we feel the momen- spring is inspired “by the spirit of Jim Gerson, president of tum will continue,” she said. “And a nautical journey,” according to Speedo USA, whose brand ranked our international business is really the company. “From sea to sand, fourth in brand awareness this Swim Top 10 growing, which didn’t exist for us deck to harbor, the look is quint- year, said his company’s point of before.” essentially American, but at home differentiation is its “function- 1. Nike At Calvin Klein, in third place anywhere in the world. al aspect. We’re a performance 2. Victoria’s Secret this year, after Nike and Victoria’s “Swimwear is a great category brand, we just happen to do it in 3. Calvin Klein Secret, the swimwear business is for us because it speaks to the clas- water,” he said. 4. Speedo “currently very promising,” the sic, cool, all-American lifestyle that 5. Tommy Hilfiger So while the brand will em- company said, “with more consum- people around the world love about 6. Lands’ End brace colorblocking, mesh in- ers buying multiple swimsuits on- the brand,” said Anne Marino, presi- 7. L.L. Bean serts and heathers for women 8. Liz Claiborne line today.” Among the best-selling dent of licensing for Tommy Hilfiger. and bright pop colors and shorter 9. Nautica styles are one-piece swimsuits for “The spring swim collection gives a lengths for men in 2013, the suits 10. Mossimo women. “Styles range from sultry new twist to the nautical inspira- also offer anti-chafe fabrics and to demure, sexy to sporty, and are tions at the heart of the brand’s straps, zone compression and diverse enough so anyone can find heritage. Swimwear Anywhere is bonded seams. “It’s a marriage the perfect one to fit their personal a category leader in the swim mar- of function and design,” he said. sults when we tell a story.” style. Low back cuts are especially ket, and we are pleased to partner “And we’re hitting a nice cycle, Nautica, ranking ninth, is also selling well.” with them as we further develop our since athletic is in and we enjoying solid results at retail. Shorter lengths in swim trunks swimwear business.” always take an athletic Men’s swimwear is produced are driving men’s sales. The magic Stripes are reinvented with bent.” in-house while women’s length hits midthigh and has a four- playful patterns and nautical mo- The brand’s overarch- was recently licensed to to five-inch inseam, and are offered tifs, and bold color combinations ing goal is to get consum- Raj Manufacturing. “Our in solids and prints with drawstrings capture a preppy and playful vibe.” ers into the water, wheth- roots are nautical, and a rigid waist. Four-way stretch The collection, which is licensed er they’re racing, seeking and that’s one of woven fabrics that move with the to Swimwear Anywhere, features to improve their fitness or spring’s most dom- body and quick-dry materials are anchor prints on bikinis and one- just recreating. Toward inant statements,” also part of the package. pieces, color-blocked oxfords in a that end, Speedo in- said Maria Vicari, For spring, botanical prints will tennis-dress style, lots of belts on cludes a Pace Club president of rule the women’s market, while suits and cover-ups, and patchwork app on its Web site, licensing. In skin prints are expected to stay prints in the brand’s signature red, offering coaching women’s, key hot. Scuba influences are seen in white and blue color palette. tips, videos and trends include one-piece and bikini silhouettes, Rounding out the top 10 are social network- sporty and rope along with one-piece models with perpetual direct-mail competitors ing for consumers. details, nauti- a low back. Bright colors range Lands’ End and L.L. Bean, in sixth “There are 2 mil- cal stripes, col- from fire-engine red and bright and seventh places, respectively, lion performance swim- orblocking and blue to stark white. Improved fit and Liz Claiborne, now an exclusive mers and 21 million fitness color accents. that enhances a woman’s figure J.C. Penney brand, in eighth place.

Nautica’s bandeau bikini.

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::'BDLQGG 30  BCBGMAXAZRIA SwIM ShowRooM 1441 BRoAdwAy, 26th flooR New yoRk, Ny 10018 PhoNe: 646.728.2200 The Top 10: Accessories

Anything Goes By Alexandra Steigrad VARIETY IS at the heart of the ac- The brand’s work was noticed this Ralph Lauren landed in eighth place. cessories world, and that means a year, as the Accessories Council hon- Accessories play an instrumental part in the wide array of price points and op- ored Calvin Klein Collection’s design brand’s growth plans. On its second-quarter tions. With fluctuating commodity trio, Francisco Costa (women’s), Italo earnings call in November, president and chief costs, accessories designers have Zucchelli (men’s) and Ulrich Grimm operating officer Roger Farah said, “We think become crafty, creating diffusion (men’s and women’s shoe and acces- the Ralph Lauren aesthetic translates beauti- lines, mixing materials and launch- sories creative director). fully into accessories. One of the interesting ing high-end contemporary collec- In fourth place is Guess Inc., realities of our results to date, both the ex- tions to meet consumer demand for which pairs its denim-centric roots traordinary margin in wholesale and the ex- affordable and fashionable wares. with a dynamic handbag, small traordinary margin we now operate in retail, is Facing volatile gold, silver, plati- leather goods and footwear offer- without high penetration to accessories, which, num and diamond prices, brands ing. With 30 years under its belt, A tote bag from Ralph are incorporating lower-priced gems Guess said it will continue to push in the acces- Blue leather Lauren’s spring 2013 such as semiprecious stones to keep ballet flats sories category this year, as the company invests collection. costs down. But creativity, value and from the Gap. more heavily in digital and marketing efforts. a healthy flow of new inventory still Footwear and accessories brand Nine West rule the category. ranked fifth. The Jones That balance between price Group–owned label and product played out in the has invested in its in- 10 most familiar brands, all of Accessories Top 10 store presentation and which are grappling to get their 1. Coach its collection. This fall, piece of what The NPD Group 2. Gap Nine West opened The estimates is the $51 billion U.S. 3. Calvin Klein World According to 9, women’s accessories market. 4. Guess a boutique featuring With its accessibly priced 5. Nine West theme-driven mer- handbags in the $250-to-$450 6. Liz Claiborne (tie) chandised walls. The properly executed, brings with it higher profit range, Coach Inc. took the top 6. Tommy Hilfiger (tie) unit also houses the margins….My guess is over the long term, it’s spot this year. With $4.76 billion 8. Ralph Lauren brand’s first handbag going to be a very big part of what we do.” in sales, the New York-based 9. Ugg line. It also launched The brand has made a point to showcase its 10. Fossil brand revamped its offering its Vintage American accessories collection during New York Fashion with the introduction of Legacy, Collection, which in- Week to editors and shoppers alike. Besides a a dual-gender collection that cludes exclusive prod- separate preview for editors, the firm recently includes apparel, footwear, bags, jewelry, eyewear uct from collaborations with Kate Ciepluch, gave its Instagram followers the first look at its and other accessories. Inspired by the brand’s sto- Monica Botkier and Cynthia Dugan. spring 2013 collection. ried history, the line not only gave shoppers the Liz Claiborne and Tommy Hilfiger tied for The Ugg phenomenon continues. The brand, chance to buy popular retro styles like its Duffle, it the sixth spot. For Claiborne, 2012 was a year of which is synonymous with slip-on sheepskin also changed the look of the brand’s stores. change. Liz Claiborne Inc. changed its name to boots, ranks ninth on the list. In addition to its At number two is Gap, which has been in Fifth & Pacific Cos. after selling its namesake stronghold on the sheepskin-boot market, the the process of a turnaround. With better mar- brand to J.C. Penney Co. Inc. The brand’s acces- Deckers Corp.–owned brand has extended its keting, improved product and a more targeted sories haul includes no-frills handbags priced in reach into men’s and also recently launched approach to strategic categories, the Gap and the $25 to $60 range. a dual-gender, higher-priced, more fashion- its sister brands Old Navy, Banana Republic Meanwhile, strength in Hilfiger’s European forward line called Ugg Collection. Using exotic and Athleta are focusing on sustaining a solid business propelled the brand this year, as consum- skins such as stingray and ostrich, the brand performance with key collaborations. Recently, ers in that region snapped up Americana heritage has added luxe bags, a variety of sandals, shoes Gap teamed with GQ magazine and labels. The PVH Corp.–owned brand and boots that nod to its heritage. Banana Republic hired Narciso has made strides, expanding its Fossil, the maker of watches, handbags and Rodriguez as an adviser begin- reach internationally and build- accessories, rounds out the list. It has elevated ning with fall 2013. ing its accessories offer, which its collections—and brand awareness—with key Calvin Klein landed in includes footwear, watches, collaborations, acquisitions and updated de- third place for its men’s and jewelry, sunglasses and hand- signs. This year, it acquired watch brand Skagen, women’s accessories, which bags. Men’s and women’s ac- introduced a higher-end heirloom leather col- exude a modern, minimal- cessories tend to be priced lection that recalls the vintage leather in its ist aesthetic. Simple square under $250. Bowler bags, handbags, and it also struck up a partnership shoulder bags contrast the knee-high riding boots, belts with Karl Lagerfeld for limited-edition watches headier, flashy footwear, with tweed accents and that will hit stores early next year. The company which includes embel- simple rose gold–plated reeled in sales of $2.57 billion for the year ended lished gold motifs and watches can all be found on Feb. 14, a 26.4 percent jump in sales over the metal adornments. the brand’s Web site. prior year.

Black crocodile handbag from Calvin Klein Collection spring 2013. 34 TheWWD100

1213WWD100_034a;16.indd 34 12/4/12 12:28 AM 12042012002849 IS THE LEADING INTERNATIONAL BRAND OF BUSINESS, LIFESTYLE AND TRAVEL ACCESSORIES, CATERING TO SUCCESSFUL PROFESSIONALS AND DISCERNING TRAVELERS AROUND THE WORLD.

PIONEERED THE USE OF BALLISTIC NYLON IN THE CONSUMER MARKET, AND ORIGINATED U-ZIP POCKETS AND BREAK-A-WAY ZIPPER PULLERS.

DESIGN INNOVATIONS AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENTS HAVE RESULTED IN OVER 125 REGISTERED PATENTS, HELPING DEFINE OUR GLOBAL BRAND.

TUMI CONSIDERS OUR PATENTS PROPRIETARY, AND WILL PURSUE LEGAL ACTION AGAINST ANY BRAND, COMPANY, MANUFACTURER OR SUPPLIER WHO COPIES THEM OR USES THEM IN THEIR OWN PRODUCTS, EITHER INTENTIONALLY OR UNINTENTIONALLY.

TUMI HAS SUCCESSFULLY DEFENDED ITS INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS, INCLUDING OUR UNIQUE HANDLE DESIGN, AGAINST UNLAWFUL USE AND EXPLOITATION BY OTHERS AND WILL CONTINUE TO ACTIVELY DO SO. The Sporting Life By Lisa Lockwood THE 10 MOST recognized brands in sportswear Placing fourth is Lee Jeans, whose aware- are a mix of activewear, mainstream denim and ness is boosted by 537,186 “likes” on Facebook vertical retailers. What they have in common is and its sponsorship of Lee National Denim Day. they make popular fashion basics that aren’t too Since its inception in 1996, the program has pro- expensive, they cater to women, men and chil- moted “One Day, One Cause, One Cure” and be- dren, and their brands have high-profile images. come one of the largest single-day fund-raisers A great pair of jeans, basic Ts and sweaters, for breast cancer—and one of the most captivat- sweatshirts and sneakers appear to be what ing social action campaigns in the country. The customers conjure up first and foremost when event has raised more than $80 million. asked about the sportswear brands they know Fifth-ranked Gap has shown improved sales best, and the survey’s results support that. and began a new global marketing campaign Brands that made the Top 10 in sportswear called “Love Comes in Every Shade,” celebrating have global recognition, owing to generous ad the many forms of love—from puppy love and mar- Calvin Klein ranked sixth. budgets that use a combination of print, TV, ried love to best friend love and sibling love. The outdoor venues and social media to keep their holiday campaign features different relationships, tops and iPads for scanning products and read- names in the public eye. Several brands have such as actor Michael J. Fox and his wife, Tracy ing reviews. Aéropostale is also the sponsor of affiliated themselves with charitable endeavors, Pollan; rapper Nas and his father, blues musician the Z-100 Jingle Ball for the second year. and many have significantly invested in over- Olu Dara, and the cast of NBC’s The New Normal. Adidas placed eighth. Ceo Herbert Hainer seas distribution. Puppy love is represented by actor Jack Huston said, “We have a full pipeline of game-changing Gaining and maintaining top awareness is no and his dog, Orso. As part of the campaign in the product innovation and fresh brand activation easy feat. For the year ended Sept. 30, 2012, U.S. U.S. and Canada, Gap has partnered with online that will shake up the market.” women’s sportswear (jeans, pants, shorts, active communities Postagram and Pinterest. Hainer attributed much of the brand’s suc- bottoms, sweatpants, sweatshirts, athletic sets, Ranking sixth is Calvin Klein, known for cess—overall sales rose by 10 percent in the skirts-skorts) generated $109.6 billion in sales, decades for jeans and underwear all over the third quarter—to high visibility at global sport- up 4 percent from a year ago, according to The world. Klein also produces in an array of cat- ing events. In North America, the brand grew NPD Group’s Consumer Tracking Service. egories from sportswear, active performance, 11 percent in the quarter. Adidas America Old Navy came out as the most recognized knitwear, jackets and outerwear to handbags, president Patrik Nilsson said, “We had one of sportswear brand. In recent accessories, footwear, our strongest back-to-school seasons, with our seasons, the retailer has sunglasses and dresses. Originals business up nearly 40 percent during shown product improvement Sportswear Top 10 In October, parent PVH that time. We also saw great results in our bas- and continues to drive busi- Corp. said it would ac- ketball business, with sales up nearly 60 per- ness with compelling price 1. Old Navy quire Warnaco Group cent thanks to Rose, AdiZero Crazy Light 2 and points. This year, Old Navy 2. Levi Strauss Inc. in a deal valued at our NBA partnership.” Adidas signed teen idol opened its first store outside 3. Nike $2.9 billion. The transac- Justin Bieber as the face of its teen Neo sports 4. Lee of North America — in Tokyo tion is expected to turn lifestyle line. 5. Gap — and said it would begin an PVH into an $8 billion In ninth place was VF Corp.’s Wrangler. In 6. Calvin Klein international rollout. 7. Aéropostale global lifestyle and fash- the U.S., the brand has two big businesses: the Executives at Levi Strauss, 8. Adidas ion giant, and will re- western outdoor specialty trade and the mass which took the number-two 9. Wrangler unite Calvin Klein with market. Wrangler Jeans opened its first stand- spot, have been feeling posi- 10. Reebok its two largest apparel alone store in Europe, a 1,500-square-foot shop tive about the brand’s busi- categories: underwear, in Leipzig, Germany, in September, and plans to ness with J.C. Penney Co. Inc., owned by Warnaco, and roll out the concept to major cities throughout noting that 700 JCP remodeled jeanswear, licensed to it. Europe in the next few years. units with Levi’s in-store shops had experienced In May, Calvin Klein boosted its profile in Reebok, which took the number 10 spot, con- “dramatic positive improvement,” while those is a strategic marketing alliance with Barclays tinues to face challenges, especially since its 10- stores not yet remodeled fairly closely followed Center, the new sports and entertainment venue year contract with the NFL expired. Revenues “the overall J.C. Penney decline.” To counteract in Brooklyn, and the Brooklyn Nets. The spon- for the brand, part of Adidas AG, fell 25 percent softness in the global economy, Levi’s licensed its sorship agreement includes Calvin Klein brand- in the third quarter and 20 percent year-to-date. boys’ business in the Americas and is phasing out ing throughout the venue, a major advertising “We do see encouraging signs for the brand, the Denizen brand in Asia. presence and special Calvin Klein VIP rooms. particularly in markets led by our own retail Coming in third was Nike, the Beaverton, Seventh-ranked teen specialty retailer and controlled-space initiatives,” said Adidas’ Ore.-based activewear giant. In February, Nike Aéropostale, which operates more than 980 Hainer. It opened its first Reebok Fitness Hub unveiled a series of cutting-edge, lightweight per- stores across the U.S., Puerto Rico and Canada, in the U.S., this summer, on Fifth Avenue in New formance innovations designed for track, basket- in October unveiled a prototype at Roosevelt York. “Our Classics business is moving into a ball and other activities. Multiple products were Field Mall in Garden City, N.Y. The store’s sustainable upward trend, [having increased] unveiled, ranging from Nike Flyknit footwear to technology-enabled features include a jukebox double digits in the third quarter, supported by the Nike Hyper Elite basketball uniform to the where teens can vote for the music played in strong new product introductions such as those next generation of Nike Lunarlon footwear. the store, iPods in fitting rooms and Apple desk- with new brand ambassador Alicia Keys.”

36 TheWWD100

1213WWD100_036a(37);19.indd 36 12/4/12 12:19 AM 12042012002002 The Top 10: Sportswear & Ready-To-Wear

Stores and Stars By Rosemary Feitelberg LIZ CLAIBORNE Inc. might have Talbots changed its name to Fifth & Pacific placed Cos. Inc. in May, but its signature ninth. brand still resonates with shop- pers for dresses, suits and evenin- gwear. The label’s versatile and affordable styles helped with its number-one ranking. Claiborne, which in the Seventies sent a generation of women to work in pantsuits, is now sold exclusively at J.C. Penney, where chief execu- tive officer Ron Johnson sees the brand’s concept shops as a draw- ing card for his chain. In second place is Calvin Klein. Designer and creative di- rector Francisco Costa described the spring collection as “Erotic. Feminine. Urban. Chic. High sophis- Gucci landed in seventh tication,” and said he was inspired place. for the brand’s signature collec- tion by the elan of the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, one of Calvin assortment of dresses and other parking garage, among other Klein’s most famous employees. Her holiday items. The company has things. Looks from 10th-ranked fashion sense was evident in the de- also been upgrading stores with Stateside, Wang plans to Michael Kors. signer’s artful tailoring, one of the what executives have described as open a store in San Francisco hallmarks of her style during her a “highly productive and profitable in January. For spring, Wang brief time in the public eye. new concept format,” and manag- translated the languid lines, offbeat Dressing such celebrities as Salma In May, the company broadened ing inventory per square foot. embellishments and sometimes Hayek and Lively is just one of its reach by unveiling Francisco Having opened a Hong Kong tomboyish touches she loves into the ways creative director Frida Costa for Calvin Klein, a collection store this fall and with another modern and body-hugging clothes. Giannini is reminding shoppers created exclusively for Macy’s. The expected to bow in Shanghai in In July, the designer rolled out the brand has more to offer than all-dress group was introduced as January, fifth-ranked Vera Wang juniors apparel and accessories bags and other accessories. part of the department store’s “A under the Princess Vera Wang label Rounding out this year’s sur- Magical Journey to Brasil” cam- at Kohl’s. The collection is an exten- vey were Jones New York, Talbots paign. The diffusion line was a first Ready-To-Wear sion of Wang’s fragrance of the same and Michael Kors in the eighth, for the Brazilian-born Costa. Top 10 name, which she introduced in 2006. ninth and 10th slots, respectively. Ralph Lauren ranked third for Despite having VIP followers In November, Jones promoted ready-to-wear with VIPs like Blake 1. Liz Claiborne like Katie Holmes and Michelle Cynthia DiPietrantonio to chief Lively, Penélope Cruz and Camilla 2. Calvin Klein Obama, J. Crew’s president and operating officer, and she now Belle helping to raise the label’s 3. Ralph Lauren executive creative director Jenna oversees production for its over- profile on the red carpet. 4. Ann Taylor Lyons’ personal style shows shop- seas facilities, including its pro- Nearly 40 years after Lauren 5. Vera Wang pers how to mix and match the duction offices in China and Hong designed costumes for the silver- 6. J. Crew label. The much-photographed Kong. Talbots president Lizanne

7. Gucci quino screen version of The Great Gatsby Lyons is often pictured wearing un- Kindler is banking on versatility a 8. Jones New York starring Mia Farrow and Robert expected combos of J. Crew pieces. for its customers. “We truly be- 9. Talbots Redford, the designer reimagined The brand landed in sixth place on lieve that the key to our success 10. Michael Kors the Jazz Age with more of a mod- this year’s Top 10. The strategy is is about providing our dedicated albots by John albots by t

ern spin for his spring collection. adding up for the $1.9 billion brand, customer with an assortment of D And in doing so, there were plenty turned up for Shanghai Fashion which has upped its presence in dresses, pants, knits and specialty of biased-cut dresses, evening op- Week in October. Strengthening Asia. It will open international tops,” she has said. tions and pantsuits. the customer base in Asia is a stores next year and keeps lining Kors, meanwhile, which has set Recruiting celebrity models priority for the company, which up celebrity endorsements. a high bar with its highly success- e Maestri; Kors an e Maestri; Kors has helped raise awareness among is polishing up a 4,752-square- Seventh-place Gucci recently ful public offering, recently hired D consumers for Ann Taylor. Kate foot Shanghai store that will have showed off an assortment of red- Ron Offir as senior vice president Hudson is the latest to do the hon- three bridal lounges, a VIP suite carpet dresses when it opened a of e-commerce to make more of a ors for the retail chain, sporting an and a separate entrance from the Taiwan store in late November. global push with that business. Gucci photo by Davi Gucci photo by

TheWWD100 37

1213WWD100_036a(37);19.indd 37 12/4/12 12:19 AM 12042012002003 The Top 10: Jewelry & Watches

A watch from Tiffany’s third-ranked Guess. key necklace. Innovation Drives the Sector By Rachel Strugatz

THE JEWELRY and watch industry It’s the watch that epitomizes the fusion between sidiary of Tokyo- has endured a few rocky years. timepieces and jewelry. It looks great on a metal based Citizen, was Gold prices climbed to almost bracelet, on a leather strap or in gold, silver or acquired by Citizen $1,900 an ounce last August, and al- rose gold,” said Fossil executive vice president from Loews Corp. in though prices have come down, gold Tom Kennedy. He dispelled the notion that Fossil January 2008 for $250 closed at its highest rate in more than is solely a watch brand, even though the category million. The 137-year-old a month on Nov. 23, at $1,750. (It closed comprises 71.8 percent of the label’s business. company, headquartered at $1,715 at press time.) Many even spec- Fossil, which acquired Danish watch company in Woodside, New York, ulated that the volatile market would Skagen, generates significant revenues in jew- placed eighth and produces result in prices hitting the $2,000 elry and leather goods as well. It also produces watches and clocks under mark last year. watches and jewelry under license for brands like the names Bulova, Bulova Clocks, Accutron, In September, for the first time Michael Kors, DKNY and Marc by Marc Jacobs. Caravelle, Frank Lloyd Wright Collection and since 2010, Swiss watch exports fell To set themselves apart, though, several Harley-Davidson Timepieces by Bulova. 2.7 percent compared with the same brands have implemented advanced technolo- Tiffany & Co. marked its 175th birthday this period in 2011. Global sales for the gies—many of them proprietary. year with several initiatives, including the in- month hit 1.7 billion Swiss francs, or $1.84 Fourth-ranked Seiko—creator of the world’s troduction of a new metal, Rubedo, and a world billion. The Federation of the Swiss Watch first quartz watch in 1969, followed by the first tour of its famous 128.54-carat Tiffany Diamond, Industry said a slowdown in Asia contrib- digital version in 1973—continues to innovate. In which traveled to Tokyo, Beijing, Dubai and New uted to the decline. Swiss watch exports October, Seiko launched its Astron GPS Solar col- York. A store was opened in SoHo, and plans to to China and Hong Kong fell by more than lection, the world’s first solar GPS watch, with a open a European flagship in Paris on the Avenue 25 percent and 19 percent, respectively. series of events and an iPad app. Named after the des Champs-Elysées in 2014 were revealed. The The fall comes after 131-year-old brand’s first brand’s presence online continued to grow, and Swiss watch sales quartz watch, the solar- in addition to strong followings across the social rose 13.6 percent Jewelry & Watches powered timepiece (about platforms, the Engagement Ring Finder app that the first three quar- Top 10 $1,800) doesn’t require launched in 2010 remains popular industrywide. ters of 2012. batteries. A patented tech- The brand has struggled financially, though, re- Still, Unity Marketing’s 1. Timex nology receives GPS sig- porting third-quarter profits plunging 29.6 percent, Luxury Consumption Index 2. Fossil nals and identifies any of hit by high diamond and precious metal costs. In showed a significant increase 3. Guess the world’s 39 time zones. 2011, jewelry represented 91 percent of Tiffany & in the third quarter—with ac- 4. Seiko Similarly, seventh- Co.’s net sales, and in October, it said it will shift its cessories purchases rising 5. Rolex place Citizen’s big push focus to the higher-end jewelry business. The new 52.2 percent. Additionally, the 6. Coach remains its battery-free selling organization will take effect in 2013, taking category is performing well 7. Citizen Eco-Drive collection, statement pieces into account that surpass $50,000. via mobile commerce—online 8. Bulova which also uses a pro- Key players with decades of history in the in- 9. Calvin Klein shopping’s fastest-growing sec- prietary technology that dustry might make up the bulk of the list, but 10. Tiffany & Co. tor. NYU think tank Luxury continually recharges the licensed brands are picking up steam. Guess, Lab (L2) found that watch and watches. Its Proximity Calvin Klein and Coach are other licensees com- jewelry brands constituted 11 watch integrates low- prising the top 10. percent of all tablet sales—the highest proportion energy Bluetooth technology. In August, Citizen Calvin Klein’s ck Calvin Klein Jewelry & of any industry—in June. tapped Belarus native—and top-ranked player on Watches have been produced through a license The most recognized name in watches and the Women’s Tennis Association Tour—Victoria agreement with The Swatch Group since 1997. jewelry, Timex, has made an effort to increase Azarenka as its latest brand ambassador. This Most recently, model Lara Stone starred in ads its appeal to women and the more trend- spring, the company tapped sports photographer for ck Calvin Klein Jewelry & Watches (shot conscious. The 158-year-old brand started to in- Paul Aresu to shoot its campaign featuring Eli by Patrick Demarchelier). Coach, newer to the troduce more fashion-forward styles a few years Manning, Matt Kenseth and Kim Clijsters, and ex- scene, started producing timepieces in 2010 with ago. Bestsellers this year range from the ladies’ panded into digital advertising for the first time. Movado. This year, Coach senior vice president of $50 Elevated Classic Dress style with a leopard- “There has been an inspiring evolution in licensed businesses Javan Bunch called the sector print strap to the men’s $135 Dress Chronograph the watch industry over the past few years,” a “major opportunity” for the brand, where watch- with gold-tone accents. The classic Weekender said Jeffrey Cohen, president of es retail from about $158 to just style remains a top seller for men and women. Citizen Watch Co. of America. less than $400. Number-two Fossil is also stepping up its “Smart purchases with real value Despite its elite prices, the fashion component. In February, it unveiled the have become the new status for lofty status enjoyed by Rolex Georgia, available with either a metal or leather consumers, rather than flashy, resonates with consumers, and strap, and mimicking the effect of a bangle bracelet. attention-grabbing options that landed the Geneva-based firm, “We see an emphasis around jewelry, bangles demonstrate little more than the which named Gian Riccardo and charms. It’s all about the wrists and how our ability to spend a lot of money.” Marini chief executive officer watches work well with our jewelry collection. Bulova, an independent sub- last year, in the fifth spot. Citizen’s ad featuring New York Giant Eli Manning.

38 TheWWD100

::'BDLQGG $0  THE NEW CLASS OF MAN

QUARTERLY IN 2013 ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: Paul Jowdy, Vice President, Group Publisher | 212.630.2434 | [email protected] Hey, Big Spender By Karyn Monget

TWO OF THE oldest motivations in the world ap- in September due to protests from Asian- in Los Angeles, New York pear to be responsible for making innerwear a American groups, and in November, a and Chicago with the new major player in the WWD 100: sex and money. Native American–inspired costume in the tag line “New Shapewear That’s the general consensus of executives in show sparked criticism from consumers and from Jockey, Major Curves the $10.6 billion U.S. innerwear industry, whose Native American groups. The costume was Ahead.” The campaign high-profile brands spark instant recognition. removed from this month’s taped TV show. is also being communi- It’s no surprise, considering Animal activists pro- cated through digital ads the 24-7 media exposure that tested a pair of snake on Hulu, on Rachel Zoe’s lingerie has received in wide- Innerwear Top 10 eyes from a taxider- Facebook and Twitter reaching advertising and mar- mist used on a Snake pages, and on The Zoe keting campaigns, multimedia 1. Victoria’s Secret Charmer costume. VS Report, a digital newslet- channels and social media, in- 2. Hanes officials said the snake A Victoria’s ter with 350,000 followers. cluding Facebook and Twitter, 3. Fruit of the Loom eyes weren’t real. Secret Angel. Meanwhile, the $600 YouTube, and a prolific num- 4. Playtex Examples of million Maidenform com- ber of fast-growing e-commerce 5. Jockey brands that spend big pany is constantly reinventing its heritage brand. sites. Whether on the red carpet, 6. Maidenform to nurture, update and Maidenform celebrated its 90th anniversary this 7. Vanity Fair where celebrities like Oprah keep their labels out front year with a new spin on brand image, product 8. Calvin Klein Winfrey, Gwyneth Paltrow, Emily include Calvin Klein transformation and expansion into additional 9. Bali Blunt, Carrie Underwood and 10. Nike Underwear, with an esti- categories of activewear and hosiery. Maurice Jessica Alba openly talk about mated $50 million to $75 Reznik, chief executive officer of Maidenform their undergarments, or with en- million marketing arsenal, Brands Inc., noted, “What’s interesting is peo- dorsements such as Hanes’ long- and Victoria’s Secret, at an ple just assume that we also do hosiery, sports time partnership with sports superstar Michael estimated $90 million to $100 million—$10 mil- bras and activewear.…The timing is great, and Jordan, Jockey’s venture with celebrity stylist lion of which is spent on the annual show. The we will have a total bodywear brand. Devotion Rachel Zoe or Maidenform’s gig with Mad Men media spend for Hanes is around $40 Comfort [bras] will be our biggest launch since costume designer Janie Bryant—the popularity of million to $50 million, and Fruit of One Fabulous Fit.” lingerie has rocketed. the Loom’s marketing arsenal is be- Another big influence on brand awareness as Much of the action has been generated tween $70 million and $90 million, well as business is the issue of consumer by Victoria’s Secret and its slick “Very Sexy” mainly for prime-time TV ads like the trust. Three heritage bra brands on marketing campaigns as well as the annual Olympics Ribbons underwear cam- the top-10 list exemplify brand loy- Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show featuring bare- paign during the Summer Olympics. alty and trust for multigenerational ly clad Angels such as Miranda Kerr, Adriana Jockey believes in marketing consumers: Playtex, Vanity Fair Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio. with celebrity cachet. Dustin Cohn, and Bali. Ed Razek, president and chief creative offi- chief marketing officer at Jockey On a more whimsical note, cer of Victoria’s Secret, said advertising dollars International, said the launch of Joe Boxer, with its licky-face sig- and a sensual image get a brand noticed. the Rachel Zoe Major Must-Haves nature, is not just about under- “Our show was the number-one TV show collection was an “important” wear anymore. The Kmart-owned for adults in the U.S. last year, for people 18 to addition to the 136-year-old label has been repositioned as a 49 years old, and the number-one TV show for Jockey business. The campaign lifestyle brand, and the retailer has adult women ages 18 to 34. That’s the target au- launched in November maga- aggressively expanded products for dience for a lot of advertisers,” he said. zines such as Marie Claire, men, women and kids that range from Victoria’s Secret ran into a few bumps, how- Elle, InStyle, Redbook, Shape pajamas and active separates to accesso- ever. The “Sexy Little Geisha” look was removed and Women’s Health, fol- ries for men, women and kids, as well as A look from from the specialty retailer’s e-commerce site lowed by outdoor advertising Hanes. home accessories. HANES PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO HANES PHOTO BY

INDEX 75. Champion 27. DKNY 65. Gloria Vanderbilt The 2012 WWD100 alphabetical 61. Chanel 24. Dockers 83. GoldToe listing of brands and their ranks. 88. Cherokee 66. Dolce & Gabbana 42. Gucci 69. Citizen 51. Dr. Scholl’s 18. Guess A-B 45. Bali 47. ck Calvin Klein 44. Eddie Bauer 73. H&M 26. Abercrombie & Fitch 32. Banana Republic 20. Coach 59. Express 2. Hanes 15. Adidas 70. Bulova 49. Columbia 35. Faded Glory 97. Harley-Davidson 14. Aéropostale 90. Burberry 37. Converse 36. Fossil 50. Hollister 79. American Apparel 6. Fruit of the Loom 94. Izod 38. Ann Taylor C D-E-F 43. Anne Klein 7. Calvin Klein 41. Danskin G-H-I J-K 40. Arizona (The Original 98. Candie’s 56. Dickies 9. Gap 53. J. Crew Arizona Jean Co.) 81. Casio 80. Dior 96. Giorgio Armani 22. Jockey

40 TheWWD100

::'BD  LQGG $0  The Top 10: Innerwear & Legwear Heritage Kicks It Up DESPITE A PROLIFIC range of designer la- a burgeoning demand for leg- gressive marketing campaign bels in hosiery departments at brick-and-mortar wear that offers shaping ben- for No nonsense this fall with stores and e-commerce sites, heritage brands are efits such as tummy control a full range of tights and leg- more widely recognized by consumers. and derriere enhancement. gings in fashion colors and tex- These iconic brands have long been known for Sheer hosiery, which had tures. Julia Townsend, execu- basic, sheer hosiery and socks, but over the past been flat for several years— tive vice president and general year there’s been a big movement into the fash- especially during the past de- manager of Kayser-Roth, said ion arena. And traditional makers are stepping cade when the bare-leg trend the push for fashion will focus up with innovative new offerings. was at its height—received a on mass retailers and national The tough economy has taken a toll on a num- major lift last year as the leg- food and drugstore chains. ber of apparel categories, but it’s been a boon wear of choice by the Duchess Andrea Angelo, director of for top legwear brands as consumers continue to of Cambridge and her sister, marketing for No nonsense, The Top 10 seek inexpensive ways to dress up an outfit. Pippa Middleton. Pretty, sheer said, “Our research indicates Six of the 10 best-known brands—Hanes (1), hosiery has also made the ce- strong demand for more con- 1. Hanes 2. Fruit of the Loom Fruit of the Loom (2), L’eggs (3), No nonsense (4), lebrity circuit with the likes temporary legwear choices, 3. L’eggs Dr. Scholl’s (7) and Gold Toe (10)—have been on of Mischa Barton, Hayden and we want every woman to 4. No nonsense shelves of mass marketers for years. With a grow- Panettiere and Sarah Jessica have easy access to this hot 5. Danskin ing number of consumers turning to mass mar- Parker. new accessory, whether it’s a 6. Calvin Klein 7. Dr. Scholl’s keters for big brand names, additional growth Capitalizing on fashion mo- pair of bright tights or classic 8. Spanx is being planned in the sheer hosiery and tights mentum, Hanesbrands, maker black leggings.” 9. Nine West segment, which generated retail sales of $997.6 of Hanes and L’eggs, enlisted L’eggs hosiery It appears Fruit of the 10. Gold Toe ranked third. million in the 12 months ending September 2012, celebrity stylist Phillip Bloch Loom is beginning to take in- according to The NPD Group. to speak to spiration from its colorful fruit The megabrands, primar- the media and consumers about logo for women’s socks, which now include a hot ily in mass channels, are Legwear Top 10 the impact of fashion on legwear. pink racer stripe in its women’s Cotton Stretch dominated by Hanesbrands; “Fashion tights and sheer ho- Athletic Socks line, and Ultra Soft Socks. Berkshire Hathaway; Golden 1. Hanes siery have become a must-have,” Also in the Top 10 are four brands that repre- Lady SpA, parent of Kayser- 2. Fruit of the Loom said Bloch, noting that sheers in sent a mix of mature heritage names and contem- Roth; Gildan Activewear, and 3. L’eggs various colors are a key trend. porary labels: Danskin (5), a 130-year-old brand Merck, which owns the vener- 4. No Nonsense Cathleen Moxham, lead de- that made its name in tights, tutus and leotards 5. Danskin able Dr. Scholl’s brand of foot- signer and merchandiser for and has since grown into a fitness specialist at the 6. Calvin Klein wear products. While a couple legwear at Hanesbrands, said Iconix Brand Group, and Gold Toe, an 83-year-old 7. Dr. Scholl’s of firms produce designer 8. Spanx sheers are a key area: “The in- label owned by Gildan, continue to be household brand hosiery—Hanesbrands 9. Nine West terest in textures and pattern names with tried-and-true products. Gold Toe holds the Donna Karan license 10. Gold Toe will certainly continue this launched men’s underwear in 2010 and will in- and Kayser-Roth produces for spring. We call it seasonless troduce outerwear in 2013. Spanx (8), launched in sixth-ranked Calvin Klein—it’s dressing—a great, seasonless 2000 by Sara Blakely as a shapewear product she their sharper-priced products weight [of sheer hosiery] that created by cutting the legs off of control-top ho- with a fashion spin that win top honors among transitions a woman’s wardrobe perfectly like siery, has become known as the sexy, go-to under- many consumers. Silk Reflections Sheer Control-Top Tights. I be- garment brand on the red carpet. Ninth-ranked The popularity of legwear as a fashion acces- lieve the sheer leg is a redefined classic that can Nine West, founded in 1978 as a footwear brand, sory began to blossom in 2011 with an expanded be an essential.” has become an aspirational accessories brand range of fashion colors, prints and textures, as well Kayser-Roth is making fashion a priority for its under the aegis of The Jones Group, which ac- as new silhouettes like leggings. There’s also been No nonsense brand. The company rolled out an ag- quired the brand in 1999. —K.M.

52. Joe Boxer 91. Limited 31. Nine West 55. Rolex 10. Timex 87. Jones New York 17. Liz Claiborne 33. No Nonsense 86. Route 66 12. Tommy Hilfiger 71. Juicy Couture 77. London Fog 82. Oakley 74. Kenneth Cole 58. Louis Vuitton 3. Old Navy S-T U-W 30. Maidenform 95. Samsonite 57. Ugg L-M 68. Michael Kors P-R 54. Seiko 67. Under Armour 99. L.E.I. Jeans 93. Mossimo 92. Pink 64. Spanx 34. Vanity Fair 25. L.L. Bean 11. Playtex 23. Speedo 100. Vans 28. Lands’ End N-O 85. Prada 78. Swarovski 89. Vera Bradley 62. Lauren Ralph Lauren 46. Nautica 76. Puma 85. Swatch 48. Vera Wang 8. Lee 39. New Balance 13. Ralph Lauren 29. The North Face 84. Versace 21. L’eggs 63. New York & Co. 72. Ray-Ban 59. Tiffany 1. Victoria’s Secret 4. Levi Strauss 5. Nike 19. Reebok 60. Timberland 16. Wrangler

TheWWD100 4 1

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