Donaghadee

Donaghadee Walking Guide

visitstrangfordlough.co.uk Shore St Presbyterian Church 13 Copeland 2 Islands Donaghadee

North Pier Map South Pier The Lighthouse and Harbour War 1 Memorial 2 The 3 1 3 The Lifeboat 4 Pier 36 and the old railway 5 The Old Quarter 6 Admiral Leslie Hall 7 Rosebank House 8 The Manor House 12 9 Grace Neill’s 10 The Methodist Church Lemons 4 11 Donaghadee Parish Church Wharf 12 Moat Street and the Motte 13 Coastguard Cottages 14 Old Market House Picnic Area 10 11 5

14 9 The Copeland 8 Islands

6 2

Please note that this map is not Donaghadee to scale and is for reference only 7 Donaghadee Walking Guide Historical Walking Trail of Donaghadee, Co

The main route consists of flat at all times. The tour will last concrete footpaths with pedestrian approximately one hour. For your crossing opportunities. There is a convenience, there are also public steep climb up to the Moat. Please toilets and a wide range of cafes be aware when crossing the road and restaurants in Donaghadee. and keep an eye out for traffic

We hope you enjoy learning more about the area. Be sure to look out for the other walking guides in the series. These can be downloaded from www.visitstrangfordlough.co.uk along with ideas on what to see and do in the area. We appreciate your comments and suggestions so please contact us via the website.

Just to set the scene, let’s start with a little history about Donaghadee

“On a clear day you can see the Crown tries to expand its control west coast of !” in . Conn O’Neill rebels against the Crown and, fearing for We can almost sense the his safety, abandons the land he excitement of the first pioneers as owns around the young town of they look across the sea to that Donaghadee. This territory passes other rugged coastline. Never to Hugh Montgomery, a Scottish has it seemed so close! On these Planter who has brought large grassy shores, the first sods are numbers of compatriots to occupy cut and a community is born. . They are farmers and From the mists of early times a craftsmen, and as they gradually definite history begins to emerge improve the harbour, more and about Donaghadee. Centuries go more settlers arrive, whilst others by and welcome to the time of the move on to populate towns such Gaelic Lords in Ireland. The English as and .

Pages 2 – 3 Trade with the mainland thrives, engineers Sir John Rennie and technology improves, confidence son, take the controversial step grows and Donaghadee steadily of converting the port into a safe becomes the premier ferry port harbour for sailing ships. With this, of Ireland. Ships carry people, trade inevitably dies off. livestock and the mail on a daily with its extended harbour is now basis across the stormy North the new focal point for seaborne Channel. Back on shore, fine traffic along the eastern coast. houses and businesses spring By the turn of the 19th century, up to serve the influx of settlers Donaghadee becomes a quiet and visitors. For two centuries, seaside resort, much favoured by Donaghadee enjoys continuous visitors from , Scotland and prosperity and establishes itself England. For the brief summer as the envy of the other towns. periods, the town regains some of However, in the 1800’s the famed its former glory. Donaghadee Walking Guide

Let’s begin the walking trail

The Lighthouse & Harbour 1 Rennie, a Scottish engineer, was its painters in the 1950’s was appointed to build the harbour and on Brendan Behan, Irish poet, storywriter, 31 July 1821 the Marquis of Downshire novelist and playwright. His father laid the foundation stone. He was one of was a house painter! the most influential men in Ireland and From its lofty parapet, there’s a chaired the board of the Donaghadee seagull’s eye view of the harbour and Packet Company. The stone covered a town. However, access to the interior silver plate, assorted testimonials and of the monument is strictly prohibited glass bottles among others. to the public. Two months into the project, Rennie The cut limestone blocks of the died and his son took over the project lighthouse came from , at the age of 27. Rennie wanted to add North Wales. Although built with a four storied arch along the lines of the sailing ships in mind, the harbour was Arc de Triomphe at the harbour but this still being used to import coal from ultimately didn’t happen due to a lack of Cumbria long after ferries had gone. funds. He was awarded a knighthood in Look around and you will notice that recognition of his work. the tracks of the railway line carrying The lighthouse is visible at the Harbour, the coal wagons are still there. and can be reached via the one way (Be careful of the uneven surface under system, along the Pier. The character of foot as the harbour is cobbled and Donaghadee is intimately joined to its there are no barriers along the harbour). most well known landmark. Since its construction in 1836, the lighthouse has Watch out for the warping rings, been a beacon of safety to mariners and a the large hoops on the ground at symbol of pride to the town’s inhabitants. the harbour to show that it was built It was regularly painted white and one of for sailing ships.

The Lighthouse & Harbour Pages 4 – 5 From the Harbour, you will see the Copeland Islands, approximately 20 minutes away by boat. There are three islands in the Copeland group. The largest, and the one which can be seen from Donaghadee, is known as Big Isle or Great Copeland, and covers more than 300 acres.

The Copeland Islands 2 It was once extensively farmed by Further out is Mew Island, a flat area families who lived year-round on the on which there is a powerful lighthouse island, but in the 1930’s most decided guiding ships using the North Channel. to move to the mainland, tired of being There have been between 50 and 100 cut off by winter storms. These days, the shipwrecks off the coast and many more deserted island is home to colonies of close shaves. Mew Island lighthouse sea birds and seals. Recently pheasant has saved countless lives over the years. and partridges have been introduced, It started as a brazier in 1715 before where they flourish because there moving to an actual light in 1884. The are few predators. At times sheep are light is now fully automated and is one brought over to graze on lush pastures. of the most powerful in the world. Big Isle is privately owned, but there In addition to the lighthouse, there are are no restrictions on visitors and it’s a several lighthouse keepers’ cottages and favourite spot for yachtsmen. other buildings. The third island is known by several names including Cross Island, John’s Island and Lighthouse Island!

The Copelands Donaghadee Walking Guide

The Lifeboat

The Lifeboat 3 Turning back towards the town, the lifeboat which resulted in the boat tipping on its station is visible on the left hand side side. The RAF and RNLI were involved in before Pier 36. It has been based here the search which proved very challenging since 1910. One of the most famous due to the exceptionally bad weather. lifeboats stationed in Donaghadee was the The 43 survivors were brought back to Sir Samuel Kelly, which hit the headlines the Imperial Hotel, located on the Pier in when it rescued survivors from the car Donaghadee, and the lifeboat crew were ferry MV Princess Victoria when it sank in highly commended and awarded for the North Channel on 31 January 1953 their efforts. during fierce storms. The ferry was making its crossing from in Scotland To explore more about the history and work to Larne, a journey of some twenty miles. of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution Heavy seas forced open the ship’s car (RNLI) please visit www.rnli.org.uk doors and the vehicles inside broke loose

Pages 6 – 7 Pier 36 and the Old Railway 4 Moving along the pier towards the town railway line the journey to Belfast took centre, we pass the lifeboat house and also 5 or 6 hours but after June 1861 this the social club which was previously home was reduced to 40 minutes. Next stop to the town’s railway station. Hotels such is Pier 36 which was once a coaching as the Railway, Eagle, Commercial and hotel and is now a guesthouse, Arthur’s lined this street in close proximity restaurant, bar and local information to the harbour and railway. In spring point, providing a wide range of visitor 1861 a new rail track was built for the guides and information which can be Belfast and Co.Down Railway Company by accessed in the entrance hall. Edwards of for £50,000. Before the

The Old Quarter 5 To enter the old quarter of Donaghadee, Gas Works Street and Railway Street. take a left turn into Manor Street. Here too is Meetinghouse Street where The street names are a nostalgic the first Presbyterian congregation reminder of the industries which once gathered during the 17th century - thrived here; Saltworks Street, Scots plantation. Donaghadee Walking Guide

Pier 36 and the Old Railway

The Admiral Leslie Hall 6 Once at the top of Manor Street, turn Beside the Admiral Leslie hall stands the left briefly to admire the Admiral Leslie Prospect House, a large two storey gabled Hall, built by Mrs Martin Leslie in 1872, town house, probably dating from around in memory of her husband, Rear Admiral the 1760’s. It was depicted on the Daniel Leslie. It was used as a girls’ school Delacherois map of Donaghadee in the until the 1950’s and a portion of her 1780’s. Local stories tell that one of the bequest was invested so that 30 of the owners decided that instead of selling the most deserving girls could receive a free house, it would be better if it became the education. All other pupils had to pay grand prize in a raffle. Tickets were sold at to learn and on Monday mornings the a shilling each and the lucky winner was children brought their penny contribution handed the title deeds, hence giving it the towards the schoolteacher’s wages. name Shilling House.

Pages 8 – 9 Rosebank House 7 Just a little further on is Rosebank, Her first book, “Two Dear Little Feet” one of the oldest houses in Donaghadee. was published in 1873. Her novel “The It is a fine five bay, two storey house, Heavenly Twins” (the first of what came with wing bays at each end. Admiral to be known as ‘new woman’ novels), Samuel Leslie of the Royal Navy resided published under the pseudonym Sarah here from 1843 – 1846 and a Martha Grand was rejected by numerous Leslie leased it from Daniel Delacherois publishers because of the frank way it in 1863. dealt with the effects of the spread of syphilis from men to their wives and In the 20th century, the tradition children. When eventually published remained as it continued to be rented in 1893 it created a sensation and was out and was then commandeered as reprinted six times in its first year. It army quarters during World War II. was condemned on moral grounds but When the building was acquired by the defended by Mark Twain and George present owners in 1969, it was largely Bernard Shaw. The novel changed derelict and in a state of disrepair. Frances’ life and created the new Since then much of its original fabric persona, Sarah Grand (often called has been restored. Madame Grand), the matriarch, the On the right of the main door a blue beautiful female prophet. plaque of the Ulster Historical Circle Her later works include Our Manifold is mounted to commemorate Sarah Nature (1894), short stories; Adnam’s Grande. Sarah Grande was born Frances Orchard (1912) and The Winged Victory Elizabeth Bellenden Clarke in Rosebank (1916). Her autobiographical novel, House. Her father was Edward John Beth Book: A Woman of Genius (1897) Bellenden Clarke (1813-1862) and her sold 20,000 copies in its first week. mother was Margaret Bell Sherwood (1813-1874). When her father died, her She was an active member of the mother took her and her siblings back Suffragette movement, lecturing in to Brighton, England to be near her America. Mark Twain and George family where she was originally from. Bernard Shaw both held her in high Sarah was sent to English boarding regard. She moved to Bath in 1920 and school at fourteen and at sixteen was Lady Mayoress on six occasions eloped with thirty-nine year-old naval between 1922 and 1929. surgeon, David Chambers McFall. They In 1942, when a bomb damaged her had one son, David Archibald Edward home, she moved to Caine, Wiltshire and lived in the Far East, Norwich and where she died on 12 May 1943. She is Warrington before separating after buried in Lansdown Cemetery, Bath. which Sarah moved to London to pursue her own career. Donaghadee Walking Guide

Rosebank House

At this point, you have the option of town along the seafront, passing by extending your tour along the Donaghadee Community Centre. Road to Donaghadee Commons. This walk will take approximately The Commons is a public park and 15 minutes. At Coalpit Bay beside recreation grounds on the southern the Commons, you may be lucky side of the town. Facilities available to find a fossil of one of the oldest at this site during the summer include organisms known in Ireland, a an Aire de Service stop for motor graptolite. This fossil which can homes, tennis courts, bowling green resemble fine pencil markings dates and pitch and putt. You can walk from from the Silurian period some 410- the Commons car park back into the 420 million years ago.

Manor House 8 Retracing your steps back from Rosebank and you will see The Manor House towards High Street, you will note on your right. This important building Donaghadee Masonic Hall on your was the first stone house built in the left hand side just at the junction with town around 1605 by the Montgomery Killaughey Road. It is a relatively small, family, whose leading light became typical late Victorian redbrick and Viscount Montgomery. His successors, sandstone building with gothic revival the Earls of Mount Alexander, were the features and built by the firm JJ Philips towns landlords until 1771 when Marie and Son 1898-1899. Angelique, wife of the 5th and final Earl, died leaving her lands and property to Looking across from the Masonic Hall into her descendants, the Delacherois family Killaughey Road, you will see on the right (a French Hugenot family who moved to hand side of the road, Cottage Kitchen at after persecution the Manor, which is home to an ancient in France). walled garden. Continue down High Street

If you feel like stretching your legs by the Donaghadee Urban District some more, you can continue along Council around 1912 and provided the Killaughey Road, taking the turn on the town with its first mains water your left after Cypress Park into Hunts supply. This tall prominent cylindrical Park. In Hunts Park you will note the tower (topped with a large tank) is water tower. The tower was constructed set on a slight rise.

Pages 10 – 11 Grace Neill’s 9 If you continue back towards High including scattering of books and glasses Street and the town centre from Cottage throughout the bar. The inexplicable Kitchen at the Manor, you will note occurrences and curious creaking of Grace Neill’s bar and restaurant on the floorboards above the old tavern have left hand side of High Street. It claims to culminated in an actual sighting of a be the oldest pub in Ireland and dates Victorian lady, contained within a ‘puff’ back to 1611. Grace was born Grace of smoke. (Take care with the steps into Jamieson and married John Neill in 1817. the entrance and the low doorways). One of their wedding presents was the inn, named the Kings Arms. John died in 1866 and the venue then became known as Grace Neill’s. In more recent years, unexplained events have taken place, leading staff of the premises to claim that Grace Neill herself haunts the venue. Many members of staff have witnessed unexplained events Donaghadee Walking Guide

Methodist Church 10 Further down the hill is the Methodist Church) once preached. The present Church with a prominent octagonal building dates from 1909, but there has dome, marking the spot where John been a Methodist Society in Donaghadee Wesley (founder of the Methodist since 1790, and a chapel since 1813.

Donaghadee Parish Church 11 Proceeding up the hill after High Street Delacherois and was said to keep time becomes Moat Street and you reach so accurately that the ships captains Donaghadee Parish Church. This site has relied on it rather than on their own been a centre of worship since ancient chronometers. times. St Patrick first marked it as a place In the graveyard lie the remains of the for Christian worship and erected a stone Delacherois and other local families. building. A more substantial building was The earliest gravestones date from 1660 erected by , and this was with one to the memory of William rebuilt in 1626. Scott, a mariner. This was the main town The four sided clock on the tower was graveyard until 1947 when a new one installed in memory of Mrs Daniel was built at Ballyvester.

Donaghadee Parish Church Pages 12 – 13 Donaghadee Motte

Moat Street and the Motte 12 Continuing up Moat Street, we come to Returning to Moat Street, we continue the actual Moat (Motte) which overlooks past the Moat Inn, once a Presbyterian the town from atop a commanding manse, and catch a glimpse of the hill. Archaeologists believe the moat Manor Farm, another ancient and listed occupies the site of an even older rath/ building, constructed in the French ringfort. A visit to the fort is well worth Huguenot style with a large courtyard. the detour with a stepped walk up to If you take the laneway almost opposite the summit. the Manor Farm housing development you come to New Road, once known as It may look like an ancient castle, but it Villa Road, with imposing houses dating was built in 1819. Stories claim that it back to Georgian Times. Going down was used to store the gunpowder used in New Road will return you to the shore. the building of the harbour, but Rennie claimed that this was brought regularly Turning right, you pass Shore from Belfast for safety reasons. Its lofty Street Presbyterian Church, where position offers magnificent views over the congregation settled after a Donaghadee Harbour, the Copeland disagreement in 1812 with the minister, Islands and as far as Rev. Skelly, over improper behaviour. in Scotland. Before the split, services were conducted in Meeting House Street. Donaghadee Walking Guide

Coastguard Cottages 13 Opposite the church is a row of red walk out to the breakwater or North brick coastguard cottages built in the Pier. There is a flight of steps leading 1860’s when Donaghadee was a main to the top of the pier. At Donaghadee coastguard base. Beside the cottages is Sailing Club, dinghies are parked on the East Street, once known as Bullock Road site of a former hotel. To your right is because it was here that cattle were Union Street, once known as Tanners’ herded down to the shore for shipment Row and later as Sailors’ Row. to Scotland. The walk back to the harbour skirts the sandy bay and at low tide, it’s an easy

Old Market House 14 Continue along the shore to New Street, another important shopping area where most of the old houses have been turned into shops and offices. Halfway up is the old Market House, later used as the town’s courthouse. A few steps further and you reach High Street and the end of the trail.

Pages 14 – 15 For more information contact any of the following Visitor Information Centres: Bangor Visitor Information Centre 31 Regent Street Donaghadee NEWTOWNARDS BT23 4AD Newtownards S 028 9182 6846 Belfast k [email protected]

Bangor Visitor Information Centre Tower House, 34 Quay Street Bangor B20 5ED S 028 9127 0069 k [email protected]

(Seasonal office Easter – end August) Visitor Information Centre The Stables, Castle Street PORTAFERRY BT22 1NZ S 028 4272 9882

(Seasonal office Easter – end August) @VisitStrangford Cockle Row Visitor Information Centre The Harbour, Main Street /VisitStrangfordLough BT19 6JR S 028 9127 2269

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Ards and North Down Borough Council presents the information as a public service, and while every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy, the Council cannot accept responsibility and assumes no liability for any action undertaken by any person using the information contained herein. The content of this guide is copyright of Borough Council and should not be reused without permission.