Capitol Reef Natural Historv Association

INSIDE Scenic Drive is Fastest Way SCENE to See Capitol Reef Country

Mormon pioneers settled along the in the 1880's Many visitors have only a few and established isolated communities. hours to spend at Capitol Reef. The One of these—Fruita—became known best way to make the most of this as the "Eden of Wayne County" because of its fruit trees. Story on precious time is to pack into the family page 4. vehicle and head down the Scenic The dazzling scenery at Drive. Capitol Reef National Park fronts for The Scenic Drive draws you deep some fascinating secrets about this old into Capitol Reef country. Following a planet Earth. Take a trip in a time pioneer wagon road, the Scenic Drive machine into ages past and find for is graded and graveled and is almost yourself the "secrets in the rocks." Story on page 5. always easily passable. The park story began in the Probably the choicest views of the 1920's when two farsighted local men soaring west face of the Waterpocket decided that the jagged ridges, Fold are found along the Scenic Drive; rounded domes and deep gorges of the the colors are breathtaking. At your Waterpocket Fold needed protection. option, you can enter gorges a Capitol Reef became a full-fledged thousand feet deep. If you have time, national park in 1971. Story on page 7. you can make some short hikes, too. Four-wheelers hove some Allow at least 90 minutes for the special opportunities for exploration entire 25-mile round trip to Capitol and adventure at Capitol Reef. Their Gorge, longer if you take short hikes. all-wheel drive vehicles are especially A stop-by-stop guide booklet is suited for the loop drive through Cathedral Valley, one of the "hidden available at the Visitor Center. gems" of the park. Story on page 8. Almanac gives you bits and pieces of sight-seeing and hiking opportunities, fills you in on a few cautions and "no no's" and provides a hearty dish of general park Here the Accent is on Family Fun: information with a tasty side order of trivia. See pages 2 and 3.

Previews discusses and gives you Sightseeing, Hikes, Fruit Picking samples of upcoming publications of the Capitol Reef Natural History Association. This issue takes a look at a new book on the plant life of the park, a book that probes deeply into the relationships of plants with Capitol Reef National Park is other national parks in , it has pioneer buildings to be visited and the their environment. Don't miss this tasty larger than Bryce Canyon and Zion campgrounds, hiking trails, a scenic puzzling rock art of the ancient morsel found on page 6. National Parks combined and displays drive, rough and remote roads to Fremont Culture to be discovered. greater scenic variety for the visitor challenge the four-wheel drive family The really big plus right now is than either of those venerable parks. In and backcountry adventure. that you can do these things, even in short, it's well worth your precious Capitol Reef has some extras, too. the summer, without the press of large time to explore! More than 2,500 "historic landscape" crowds, overflowing parking areas and Capitol Reef may be the national fruit trees provide enjoyment to the do- congested roads and trails. Quiet— park system's best kept secret; it-yourself picker as the cherries, even solitude—can still be found at visitation has hovered at the one-third apricots, peaches, pears and apples Capitol Reef without a long trek into million mark for several years. Like come into season. There are historic "backcountry."

"... the light seems to flow or shine out of the rock rather than to be reflected from it. "—CLARENCE DUTTON 2 scene Capitol Reef ALMANAC

Bad Guys Try Our Use Parks Short Hikes Too For visitors with a little more time than a few short hours to spend, Yes, Virginia, it's true. You're the park has some interesting hikes not safe from rip-off artists in within a few miles of the Visitor national parks. In fact, there are Center. Some of these hikes are little predators who make a living from more than scenic strolls, others are those who let their guard down in pretty rigorous. All, however, are America's parklands. short and can be completed in a few Some of the favorite places for hours. "car clouting" are trailhead parking areas. Patrol rangers, already spread On the easy side are the Grand too thin, concentrate their attentions Wash, Capitol Gorge and Goosenecks there. Most "pros" can enter almost strolls. The Hickman Bridge hike is any locked vehicle doors in less than of moderate difficulty and extends a minute. Trunks are harder to enter. about a mile, one way. There is a If you must leave valuables in your self-guiding booklet available at the car and you don't have a trunk, place Visitor Center for this very popular them well out of sight. trail. Some trails "get you on top" Park rangers need your help with rather than lead you through this problem, so report anything awesome gorges. The Rim Overlook, suspicious, pronto. Frying Pan, Cassidy Arch, Golden Throne, Fremont River, Chimney Rock and Cohab Canyon trails range Park Has from "fairly strenuous" to "strenous" in difficulty. They are all New Plan on the short side, not longer than three miles, one way. As of 1982, Capitol Reef has a Just ask at the Visitor Center for new "general management plan" to a detailed handout about these trails. guide its administration and development into the 21st century. The 139-page document spells out "preferred alternatives" for the Backpacking What About three districts of the park in regard to access, visitor facilities, park support Takes the Black facilities, resource management and interpretation. Smarts Rocks? Some of the developments called for in the plan include expansion of It's not smart to just break out . . . next to "where's the rest the Fruita (headquarters district) the trusty back pack and head for the room?" perhaps our most frequently campground and the construction of boondocks. You'll be in for asked question. Well, about 25 a new campground in the south discomfort—even trouble—especially million years ago, tremendous district near the Burr Trail. Scene at Capitol Reef. volcanic eruptions in central Utah Planners and park staff believe First of all, you'll need a permit brought lava flow to a point just west that implementation of the new plan Editorial issued at the Visitor Center. The of Capitol Reef. After that— will increase recreational George Davidson permit helps rangers keep track of especially during the recent Ice opportunities, improve visitor safety Scene is a publication of the Capitol impacts on fragile desert backcountry Ages—the lava cap was broken up and reduce congestion. Reef Natural History Association, a and enhances the chances of a search and rocks were tumbled and rolled A copy is available for review in private, non-profit corporation. All if injury strands you. for miles by the then-mighty Fremont the Visitor Center at any time. proceeds from sales of this publication Capitol Reef has some real rough River and other watercourses cutting are used to assist the educational, country; it's safest not to hike alone. across the Waterpocket Fold. interpretive and visitor information Water will be your biggest problem The "black" rocks look out of program of Capitol Reef National for a long hike, especially in the often place and, in a way, they are. They Park. They Are fierce summer heat. Most of the few are much harder than the sedimentary Articles published herein are seeps, springs and rain-holding rocks they lie upon. Naturally very Eagles! copyrighted and may not be reprinted waterpockets are contaminated. dark, they often take on the color of without the written permission of the As you might expect, there are the soils in which they rest. Along The towering red rock Business Manager, Capitol Reef rules a'plenty to protect both you and highway 24, between Torrey and escarpment across the road from the Natural History Association. the environment and you'll receive a Bicknell, you can see almost a line of visitor center is a favorite haunt of Persons interested in contacting the detailed information sheet when you them that appear to be half white and golden eagles. Throughout the association may write: Business get your permit. Some of the "no- half black. These rocks have been summer, they can be seen soaring on Manager, Capitol Reef Natural History nos": No pets, no weapons use, no disturbed by cable laying near the the thermal updrafts near the cliffs or Association, Fruita Community, camping near watersources. highway. swooping down over the rock rubble Torrey, Utah 84775, or phone: (801) Some of the easier and "close to snatch up a wiggling morsel. 425-3834. in" backcountry hikes are Spring Canyon and Pleasant Creek. Muley Twist Canyon, just below the Burr Trail, is also popular. For the cross country backpackers, 378 square miles of park present a hiking boot full of possibilities. 3

The monoliths—waiting for you in Cathedral Valley. See page 8.

"Deerest" Rocking at Dilemma the Reef

Warm weather visitors enjoy Capitol Reef is a rock watcher's watching the mule deer herd in Fruita paradise but a little frustrating for as they graze serenely on alfalfa at rockhounders. Park regulations dusk. Talk about a just plain nice prohibit rockhounding and rangers experience! Depending on the year, take a dim view of folks working on about 60-100 move down nightly the scenery with little hammer and from daytime solitude in the mesas sacks. above Fruita. Their trails crisscross Parents can help their children the hillsides. understand the wisdom of protecting Like many pleasant things in life, natural and historic objects in the the deer herd presence has a flip side nation's parks and not leave it up to that's not so good. The deer are park employees to tell a child that he natural browsers, not grazers, and can't take his/her "pretty rock" they just love the tops of young fruit home. What harm will "one little trees. Even larger trees are not safe. rock" removal do? Well, despite The deer love to rub against the bark. What we have here is a Try Burr intensive protective efforts over the Once the trees are stripped of bark all classroom example of the conflict years, there's hardly a portable piece way 'round, they're goners. between natural and agricultural Trail of petrified wood left at most When a small, private farm systems. And it's complete with all roadside areas in Petrified Forest community existed at Fruita, deer the potential moral issues, prejudices If you like to see the "sights" by National Park. and emotions these conflicts always car or truck—and you are staying herds were no problem. Whenever a By the way, the Bureau of Land generate, e.g., the Grand Canyon with us for more than a day or two— track was sighted, it created big Management has a rockhounding area burro problems, the proposal of consider the 130 mile loop drive excitement and a check of the trusty not too far east of Capitol Reef. Ask sheepherders to poison rangeland through Boulder, Utah and back to .30-.30 rifle. In or out of season, a about it at the Visitor Center. wandering deer didn't last long coyotes and the idea of reintroduction Capitol Reef. around Fruita. of large predators to parks In summer, the graded roads are Now, the National Park Service surrounded by ranches. in pretty good shape. Most of the is pledged to preserve the Fruita If any reader has a new scheme time you will have no problem using orchards. After all, they're part of an to help rangers down from "the the family sedan as long as it isn't historic district that's on the National antlers" of their dilemma, the rangers slung two low. And the scenic views? Register of Historic Places. At the would love to hear it. Meanwhile, this "Magnificent, breathtaking, same time, the park's rangers are also "deerest" problem is with us. stupifying" all fit. pledged to protect "the wildlife Psst! I think the rangers like There's no backtracking on this therein." Here's the proverbial watching the deer too. [Editor] drive. You start out at the Visitor "antlers of a dilemma" (pardon). Center and move east in highway 24. The most effective solution to Just outside the park you'll wheel date has been the construction of south at the Notom-Bullfrog Road high wire fences. These are used junction and drive along the sharply around the perimeter of young It's Butch tilted rock formations on the east orchards. Trouble is, the fences are in face of the Waterpocket Fold. no way "historic" and don't do When you reach the Burr Trail much for maintaining the "historic Cassidy junction you will ascend some Watch Your scene." Fact is, some folks think thrilling switchbacks (don't be them reminiscent of a World War II Country! fainthearted) and rise to the top of Kids! prisoner-of-war fence, lacking only a the Waterpocket Fold. The views are The Wild Bunch—last of the big strutting Commandant Klink inside. even more exciting than the ascent. There are pitfalls for the unwary outlaw gangs—often sought sanctuary Not too long ago, one pleasant-faced When on top, consider that Mormon in parks like Capitol Reef. Some of in the late 1890's at Robber's Roost, lady, eyes aglow, breezed into the pioneers brought wagons over the the trails have steep drop offs; loose just east of Hanksville, Utah. Robert visitor center to "thank the rangers fold in 1881 before a road was built. and crumbly rock is everywhere. LeRoy Parker (Cassidy's real name) for putting the beautiful deer inside As you travel west toward Park rangers are amazed at the was well known in Wayne Country the fence so that the kids could view Boulder, the rocks become exquisitely lack of care displayed by some and often used the old road through it in the daytime." Groan. colorful. You'll have to pass over a parents who take trail hikes with their Capitol Gorge (now the Scenic few very shallow washes, but the children. The kids are allowed to run For those who pipe up "well, Drive). Tradition records that the bottoms are firm and graveled and hundreds of feet ahead, playing near just move the deer," that's easier said gang maintained a hideout in Grand the inch or two of water you may the edge of cliffs, or scrambling over than done. It's been tried from time- Wash, near the Scenic Drive, but this find won't prove a problem. Of loose rocks that are prone to shifting. to-time with limited success. First, it has never been confirmed. costs a bundle in precious hourly course, there's always a chance of a One of the reasons that national Two Wild Bunch gang wages. Second, tranquilizers are foot or more water in the washes parks are so appealing is that they are members—"Blue John" and tricky to administer by air gun (the following a heavy rain or snow melt. not full of fences or plastered with "Silvertip"—were arrested by Deputy deer sometimes die). Third, some of As always, watch the weather! warnings. Capitol Reef contains some U. S. Marshal Joe Bush and brought the deer—transported miles away to You're in for a real thrill when of nature's most beautiful handiwork to trial in nearby Loa, the county seat the high country—somehow get back you start from Boulder to Grover but it's no sheltered Disneyland. The of Wayne County. "home" to Fruita. over the high mountain road. Views park is real—with all that implies. Of course, the deer hunters have of the Waterpocket Fold are another suggestion: Open the park to incomparable. As a matter of fact, seasonal hunting. But that's a legal the first scientist-explorers to see the "no-no." Rangers could reduce the fold saw it from the slopes of herd by rifle fire quickly but—let's in 1871. face it—the heat generated by such a Always check on road conditions managemert action just might be and weather before you start this "too hot to handle" in this day and trek. It's one of the best "tours" of age. Capitol Reef country. 4_ scene Red Rock Eden The Story of Fruita and the Orchards

Most visitors to Capitol Reef National Park are curious about the thousands of fruit trees that lie within a mile or two of the visitor center. These trees—apple, pear, peach, cherry, apricot, mulberry, even Potawatamee Plum—are the most obvious reminder of the pioneer community that once prospered in the narrow valley of the Fremont River. Settled Late Settlement came late to south-central Utah; the Capitol Reef area wasn't charted by credible explorers until 1871. In the last half of that decade, Latter Day Saint (Mormon) settlers moved into the high plateau lands west of Capitol Reef and established communities based on short- season farming and grazing. They then looked to the east, along the corridor of water snaking through the soaring cliffs and domes of the Waterpocket Fold—the Fremont River. The origin of the little community at the junction of the Fremont River and Sulphur Creek is obscure. The first "resident" may have been an 1879 squatter by the name of Franklin Young, but the first landholder of record was Neils Johnson. Others soon followed and the community that sprang up became known as "Junction." River the Key The Fremont River was the key to life; without irrigation, farming would have been Where Time Forgot house and barn and a few others), the orchards impossible. Unlike some of the other small The one-room schoolhouse, constructed by remain and dominate the landscape. The new settlements that grew up further downriver— residents in 1896, served as a community center. general management plan for Capitol Reef Aldrich, Caineville, Blue Valley—Junction was The desks were movable and the community National Park cites the value of the orchards as a usually spared the devastation caused by frequent enjoyed dances and box socials in the little "historic landscape" and affirms the intention of flooding. The orchards of her residents prospered building. Residents also held church activities the National Park Service to preserve them. and before the turn of the century Junction was there as well as in private homes. Heritage Preserved known as "the Eden of Wayne County." In 1900 Women often quilted together and men and The orchards—all owned by the American the name of the little settlement was changed to boys were especially fond of baseball. "Putting people—are maintained at a level of about 2,500 "Fruita." up" foods was not a hobby in Fruita; it was trees with 1,800 "in production." A small crew is The community never incorporated. Local essential for survival through the winter. kept busy year-round with pruning, irrigation, authority—such as it was—was vested in the Well into the modern era, farming techniques replanting and spraying. Mormon "presiding elder." The population in Fruita remained in the 19th century. It was not As each fruit crop comes into season, the averaged about ten families. until World War II that the first tractor was fruit (apples, cherries, peaches, apricots and Although it became widely known in south- purchased. pears) is made available to the public on a "pick central Utah for its orchards, Fruita residents also Fifty years ago, Fruita was spared much of your own" basis. The park superintendent sets grew sorghum (for syrup and molasses), the anguish that the Great Depression brought to the per pound or bushel price after checking local vegetables and alfalfa. Fruit growers usually other communities in America. Long reliance on commercial orchard prices. Although he may take picked the fruit prior to maturation and hauled it barter as the main method of filling basic life the isolation of Fruita into consideration in by wagonload to bigger towns like Price and needs shielded the Fremont River settlers from the setting prices, he is not permitted to undercut Richfield—and beyond. This was a formidable cash drought that plagued the nation. Contrary to private enterprise. undertaking when one considers that in 1901 it what one might imagine, Fruita sheltered took the Mormon bishop of Torrey more than an passionate supporters of Franklin D. Roosevelt as Management of the orchards, especially hour and a half to travel the nine miles between well as conservative "Hooverites." during picking season, presents some difficult Fruita and Torrey in the best weather. If the. road problems to resolve. Because the trees were between Torrey and Fruita was difficult, the A Tolling Bell planted as smallish family orchards originally— "road" between Fruita and Hanksville—37 miles Although it wasn't recognized clearly at the each with a wide variety of fruit types—fruit east—was nearly impossible. time, the establishment of Capitol Reef National ripens in these "mini-orchards" at varying times. Monument in 1937 would become a tolling bell It is very difficult for park rangers to "open" The Blue Dugway for the Fruita community. After World War II, orchards for picking in small "penny packets" In 1883, residents of Fruita (then Junction) park visitors began to arrive in increasing and still exercise the control needed to protect the had built a passage through Capitol Gorge that numbers; the road from Richfield to nearby trees from damage and the pickers from unsafe extended to Caineville and Hanksville. This Torrey was paved in 1940. In 1952, the pavement acts. primitive roadway was called the "Blue Dugway" was extended to Fruita; the world had found the However, as trees become overage, and it served to connect the river settlements with Capitol Reef country. horticultural workers are slowly replacing the the rest of Utah until after World War II. The As visitation to the monument increased in patchwork quilt-like layout of the orchards with a narrow wagon track was so difficult, however, the post war years, the National Park Service more orderly arrangement consisting of large that the little Fremont River communities (NPS) determined to purchase all the Fruita tracts of monocultures, e.g., all peaches in one remained some of the most isolated in America properties still in private hands. By the late 1960s, large orchard, all apricots in another large until the mid-20th century. most of this had been accomplished on a "willing orchards, etc. In this way, the gross aspect of the Along the Fremont River, barter served as seller/willing buyer" basis. Many of the residence "historic landscape" will be maintained but the the means for acquiring goods and services; cash structures and outbuildings were razed. fruit harvest will be much easier to manage. was in short supply. Although some Fruita men Although most of the structures of the Fruita For both visitors and regional residents, worked on the state roads, annual fruit sales settlement are gone (with the exception of the Fruita will continue to be the "Eden of Wayne remained the major source of cash income. restored schoolhouse, the Pendleton-Gifford County" into 2001—and beyond. _5

Touchstones of Forever Look for the Secrets in the Rocks By George Davidson

Not every traveler across the broken lands of carried away from the red rock country it might The Twisted Staircase the Colorado Plateau in south-central Utah is be this: No physical form in the universe—neither As the whole mind-boggling event of uplift on earth, nor in firmament above—is forever. In impressed. accelerated, the weathering away of rock the cosmology of "stuff," change is perhaps the quickened. Silt-laden water runoff eventually I remember how enthralled I was as I drove only physical constant. "This, too, shall pass found access to the Pacific Ocean and, ever since, to Capitol Reef National Park from a National away" is no mere facile phrase to help one bear the Colorado Plateau has been "going to sea" in Park Service office job back east. Pushing life's woes. The hills "everlasting" are the hills the muddy waters of the Colorado River and at a northwest from New Mexico, the colors seemed to "everchanging." pretty quick pace if you remember how long it become more brilliant, the contours of twisted took to put all those layers down to begin with. rocks more ragged. Caught up in this geological These "hills everchanging ..." "Reading the rocks" on the Colorado fantasy I exclaimed, "Isn't this magnificent?" If time travel were possible, most folks Plateau might not be all that difficult if geologists Deflation came suddenly. My second oldest wouldn't have liked the Capitol Reef Visitor were dealing with fairly uniform rock layers, a intoned from the rear seat, "What's so great Center locale 220 million years ago. Probably the few unconformities and the process of about it, Dad? Nothing but rocks." The other landscape was as flat as Kansas—very hot and weathering. But all sorts of other events two mumbled assent. Incredible! Where had I very humid, partially covered with shallow marine complicate things, like (1) molten rock (magma) waters. A visitor would find himself near sea level failed? from deep within the earth moving into and the equator (the continents drift) and the land Three years after that deflation, I'm not sure subterranean cracks and fissures, pushing and would be a fairly barren, seemingly endless flood the kids are really moved much by the isolated distorting the sediment(ary) rocks; (2) small plain. If the climate weren't enough to turn you but spectacular environment in which I live and glaciers grinding and reshaping, leaving oddball off, the primitive, six-foot long reptile trying to work. The social hurly-burly at school is often a sediments of their own; and, (3) the stressing, gnaw away your leg would. No—the environment topic of suppertime chatter—never a sunset glow twisting, stretching and breaking of the that gave us the red shale and sandstone on a soaring cliff. Maybe it really takes the care- sedimentary rocks in "mini" versions and sediments of the Moenkopi Formation was not a weary or at least the life-seasoned to appreciate a variations of the Colorado Plateau disruption. At spa. And you might not realize that this stifling sunset. Capitol Reef just such a distortion in the rock mudflat would lie on other sands and muds— Preadolescent children and Utah pioneers layers occurred and left us the scenic legacy of the already changed to stone—that extended back two may share a little something in common. Most of Waterpocket Fold. billion years, even then. the stalwarts who settled south-central Utah in the There remain many questions about the One-hundred and ninety million years ago last three decades of the 19th Century couldn't origin of the Waterpocket Fold that are, at best, you wouldn't have liked the Visitor Center locale find much praise for the Waterpocket Fold either. only partially answered. For instance, geologists either. Your time machine might leave you The 100 mile long spine of "standing-up" rock are unsure if the uplifting of the Waterpocket standing on a sand dune, the glaring white sands couldn't be cultivated in most places and, unless a Fold got underway at about the same time the of a scorching, near-equatorial desert a blur in the cow or sheep had discovered levitation, grazing Colorado Plateau uplift event was starting about horizon's sky. was impossible. Latter Day Saint (Mormon) 60 million years ago. The fold may still be pioneers saw the jumble of cliffs and gorges as a uplifting. barrier to travel. The first wagon road through Steps of the Ages The sedimentary rocks of the Waterpocket Capitol Gorge was cleared in 1883 and kept open If your time machine brought you back to Fold country look tilted and distorted, that's for only with constant effort. the present in fits and starts you'd see most certain. Here the analogy of the ascending With the roads and air-conditioned land environments appear several times for return staircase we talked about before runs into cruisers of today, your entry to south-central engagements. The shifting desert sands that made problems unless you think of trying to focus on Utah and a quarter-billion years of earth history the Wingate Formation would come back again; the staircase after a very wild night on the town can be almost effortless. When you are not someday they would form the Navajo sandstone. or, perhaps, imagine looking at it through one of fighting just to survive—and you are well-fed and And a shallow sea, moving slowly with the tilting those fun house mirrors. comfortable—something that transcends the of the continent, would come back—again and mundane can happen. again—always with new life forms. And with each The Titan's backbone . . .? ebb and flow, with each change, the mud, the You know, it's odd how some things get a The Mystic Within . . . sand, the volcanic ash and the remains of once handle. When you think about it, calling a The rocks! The soaring, jumbled, jagged living things would stay—as sediments. And gigantic 100 mile long upthrust the "Waterpocket rocks! Sometimes the flatlander's initial sediments would become rock in layer after layer, Fold" because of eroded potholes found here and response—like mine—is enthrallment, a like the risers and steps of an ascending staircase. there that hold rainwater is like naming a newly transfixing, an elevating euphoria. Naturally, If the ascending staircase idea is a workable discovered animal species after the flea that lives there are lots of folks who just think the scenery analogy then there's a couple of steps missing. on its back. Too bad, for from the air the fold is "nice." We're talking about matters of the Wind, weather and water had a habit of doing in looks to me like the fossilized backbone of some "spirit" here that just don't fall into neat ancient times just what they do today—eroding gigantic vertebrate—how about one of the Titans categories. Changing rock colors, especially at soil and rock away. Whenever there was a of Greek mythology (remember that "there were sundown, are rich beyond description. Every significant pause in the laying down of sediments, giants in the earth in those days)? Yes, the nuance of shading and rock glow lifts the inner erosion got into the act. Where geologists find a "Titan's Backbone" has a nice classical ring, but self just a little bit higher. step in the staircase of sediments has eroded away "Waterpocket Fold" is on the maps. The dictionary defines "mystic" as one who in times primeval, they yell "unconformity!" Visitors to Capitol Reef National Park are experiences an immediate spiritual intuition of While most of the geologic steps would be often confused by the terms "Capitol Reef" and truth that transcends ordinary human the same at, say, the Capitol Gorge locale as they "Waterpocket Fold." Many assume they are understanding. If that's so, then quite a few would near the Visitor Center, a few would not. synonomous. No so! "Capitol Reef" refers only "mystics" pass through Capitol Reef. I know In ancient times, just as they do today, streams to the scenic spectacular of red cliffs and white they do; some talk to me about their experiences. meandered and shorelines abided. A meandering domes that march south from the old Fruita Some people see the glory and majesty of a river laid down the so-called Shinarump sandstone community site about 15 miles to Pleasant Creek. Creator here, sort of a silent Te Deum or soaring just on top of the Moenkopi and that's why you "Waterpocket Fold" refers to the much larger hymn of praise. Others just as sensitive, but who just can't find it in some places. As the song geologic entity of eroded uplift that stretches disavow a religious persuasion, find a sense of might refrain "The river didn't flow where the from Thousand Lake Mountain to Lake Powell. awe, of inner elevation. Shinarump didn't grow." And the Waterpocket Fold is much wider than If you don't stay long, your encounter with The process of layering—building the "Capitol Reef" as well. When visitors stand at the rocks—and the memory of that encounter— sediment(ary) staircase—went on almost forever. Panorama Point scanning the near-luminous west may remain primarily mystical. But even sensitive Here in south-central Utah it pretty much ended face of Capitol Reef at sunset they are within the humans won't be long satisfied with "spiritual" about 60 million years ago. For some reason- geologic feature called the Waterpocket Fold. encounter. Soon the need to question and probe geologists now cite events deep within the crust of Well, don't let all this geology stuff get you will reassert itself. It always has. the earth associated with "continental drift"— down. If you must like being dazzled—enjoy it Nowhere on earth is the historical time of a large sprawl of land (the Colorado Plateau) and hold fast to the condition. man's memory more piteously compared to the began to be uplifted. And you know, after three years of this red vastness of geologic time. If one insight can be rock rhapsody I'm still a mystic about Capitol Reef. Maybe you guessed as much! 6 scene PREVIEWS...

New Book Will Tell Story of Capitol Reef Plant Life

The Capitol Reef Natural History Association has a very these vulnerable living threads to the hazards of the only one essential ingredient in the sugar- active publications program and hopes, by the year 2060, to have changing soil environment can the plant draw in the manufacturing process—another is carbon dioxide, books available on every facet of the scenic, geologic, cultural and water and dissolved mineral nutrients it needs. If the which must enter the leaves in gas form from the biologic resources of the park. A publication long needed has been one dealing with the diverse plant life of the park, illustrating not soil dries out too much, the feeder roots die back, and atmosphere. Unfortunately, any pathway which only what plants exist in the park but explaining how and why they the main root branches, which are waterproofed with a permits the essential carbon dioxide to enter is also an are here. What professional botanist Dr. Susan Meyer has lovingly corky covering, ensure that water is not leaked out into escape route for water. Plants have solved this authored is not just another ' 'coffee table'' picture book of a the soil again. Just as above ground, the well-timed dilemma by having tiny adjustable holes called national park's plant life, but a penetrating and witty look into plant relationships with water, soil, animals, man and—one another. Her death of small repeating units is essential to the stomates ("little mouths") scattered across a leaf book—atrue "plant ecology"—is expected to be ready for the 1987 well-being of the whole plant. surface which is otherwise more or less waterproof. visitor season; savor now this brief chapter on water: Once inside the root, the water moves upward The stomates open when conditions are right for into the stem through conducting tissue made up of carbon dioxide uptake, but close when conserving Water is the key to understanding the lives of clusters of tiny tubes. These tube clusters ramify into water becomes the number one concern. Capitol Reef plants. The very first plants on our planet every branch and into each leaf, where they form a The rate of water loss from leaves is greatly lived totally immersed in this amiable medium, but all network of veins. As water is lost from the leaf increased by the fanning action of the wind. If a leaf that changed with the hard-fought conquest of land. surfaces, a pressure or potential gradient is created. can trap a still layer of air over the stomates, the carbon Land plant design is based on the need to keep from This pulls water up from the roots, in much the same dioxide can enter, but evaporation is slowed down. A wilting in an environment where death by dehydration way that sucking pulls waterupa straw. If flow up covering of hair can create such a still layer. is the biggest threat. For desert plants, this danger is from the roots cannot keep pace with evaporation from Sometimes the stomates themselves are countersunk very real indeed. Land plants also had to develop a the leaves, the leaves begin to lose water and wilt. into the leaf surface, opening into pits or crypts where more rigid structure, since they no longer had the You might think that waterproofing the leaves to they are out of the breeze. bouying effect of water to help them spread their seal in the moisture would solve the problem, and Evaporation from the surfaces also helps to cool light-capturing canopies. desert plants especially do tend to do that. But it is not a the leaves, and plants which opt for conserving water • Water enters the plant through its roots. You have perfect solution, because a plant with perfectly must find other ways to keep from parboiling their leaf to dig very carefully to begin to comprehend the waterproof leaves would die—of starvation. Water is protoplasm. A small leaf re-radiates heat quickly and intimacy with which plant roots clasp the soil. The stays close to air temperature rather than overheating, delicate hairs of the feeder roots are threadlike while one with a pale, waxy or hairy surface can reflect extensions of single cells, which cling to each tiny soil the radiant energy before it is converted to heat. Big, crumb. The degree of interpenetration is so great that bright green leaves are a good sign that a plant can roof and soil become inseparable. Only by exposing afford the water to keep cool by evaporation.

Black, soaring wings against a The chukar is a non-native sheer redrock cliff. A flash of russet permanent resident at Capitol Reef on a fence near the old barn. and may be thought of as a pest by Raucous calls from riverside thickets FOR THE BIRDS . . some, or bonus to a checklist by on a moonlit night. Whether raven or others. Originally from the golden eagle, Say's phoebe or yellow- "Mediterranean" dry belt of Eurasia, breasted chat, the birdlife at Capitol this hardy partridge was introduced Reef National Park is rich, an as a gamebird to the Bicknell-Torrey encounter with the unusual an ever- Some of the most common area west of the park. The Change of Seasons present possibility. residents are less noticeable. Leaf Abandoning the introduction The succession of seasons brings rustling and vigorous scratching in site, the chukars drifted eastward into Many Habitats Here changes to the bird populations at the underbush could betray the the ideal habitat for the species— The range of habitats and Capitol Reef National Park. Most of presence of the rufous-sided towhee. canyons with boulder-strewn slopes elevations at Capitol Reef gives a the brightly colored birds of the and rocky cliffs with adjoining open, "birder" opportunities rarely equaled Where Oasis and Desert Meet summer disappear in winter. Western grassy fields—the Fruita area. As elsewhere on the Colorado Plateau. A The edges of the Fruita "oasis" tanagers, black-headed grosbeaks, they multiplied rapidly with ,a typical continually expanding checklist habitat are especially rich in birdlife. lazuli buntings and yellow warblers brood of 8-15 chicks, coveys of reflects this; nearly 200 species have Where agricultural lushness merges give way to dark-eyed juncos, black- native Gambel's quail disappeared. been recorded in the park. with dry, boulder-strewn hillsides and capped and mountain chickadees, and The chukars soon became a resource The greatest concentration— open shrublands, birds from both hairy woodpeckers. Permanent management problem for the park, hence the best "birding"—centers environments concentrate. Blue-gray residents like black-billed magpies are another difficult-to-control intrusion around the farmlands and river gnatcatchers, scrub jays, ruby- more readily noticed. into the native environment. bottoms of the old Fruita historic crowned kinglets and black-throated Migrants appear during the area. In the desert, water means life sparrows from the drier desert spring and fall. Waves of the Get A Checklist and the streams, irrigated fields and country mingle with oasis varieties. common transients—broad-tailed Armed with binoculars and orchards of Fruita create an oasis in Canyonland bottoms with hummingbirds and yellow-rumped patience, your visit to Capitol Reef is the slickrock country that attracts all towering rock walls and dry washes warblers—are often accompanied by sure to be rewarding. Whether you types of animal life. attract their own inhabitants, less frequently seen species—tree are a serious birder or just curious Lured by ripening fruit, robins including the commonly seen ash- swallows and rufous hummingbirds. about a bird you happened upon, pluck mulberries from the trees in the throated flycatchers. They can be Places like the Fremont River stop in at the park visitor center for picnic area and compete with humans seen flitting from a tree branch perch, and Little Lake Mead (off the Notom more information. A bird checklist, a for the cherry harvest. Common snatching an insect in midflight, then Road) are stopovers and rest areas guide to the hiking trails and a park flickers swoop with roller coaster-like returning to the same branch to await for water-oriented migrants like folder are distributed there and a flight between large riverside the next morsel. A waterfall-like song grebes, geese and ducks, herons and naturalist is sometimes available for cottonwoods while northern orioles of clear, descending notes announces egrets, and assorted shorebirds. The personalized help. You may find one suspend their bag-shaped nests from the canyon wren, while the less vocal incongruous sight of snowy egrets or more sales publications helpful. tree limbs. Late in the day, violet- rock wren's mottled-gray back and flying against a backdrop of redrock And don't forget: A good green and rough-winged swallows rust colored rump bobs across rock spires or a black-necked stilt stalking checklist can emerge only from wheel over the Fremont River in rubble. A loud "kree-kree-kree" in the shallows of a temporary, cooperation between the spread-thin pursuit of flying insects. At dusk they, could attract your attention to the rainfed "lake" occurs with surprising naturalists of the park staff and yield the hunt to the white-barred eyrie of the uncommon prairie falcon frequency. dedicated visitor-birders. Be sure to wings of nighthawks. high on a canyon wall. stop by the visitor center with any unusual sighting information. 7

This "Pleasuring Ground" How Capitol Reef Became a National Park

In 1971, Capitol Reef became a national Despite the fact that several early expeditions In this effort he was joined by his brother-in-law, park, one of the "crown jewels" of the National passed near Capitol Reef, none of them— Joseph S. Hickman, who was Wayne County Park system. Few people remember that about 60 including those of John C. Fremont—explored High School principal. years ago two local men—Ephraim P. Pectol and the Waterpocket Fold. It was, as now, incredibly In 1924, Hickman extended community Joseph S. Hickman—laid the foundation for rugged—and forbidding. involvement in the promotional effort by national recognition of this "pleasuring ground." Following the Civil War, Mormon church organizing a Wayne County-wide "Wayne Today, Capitol Reef National Park comprises officials at Salt Lake City sought to establish Wonderland Club." In 1924, the educator was 378 square miles of colorful canyons, ridges, "missions" in the remotest niches of the elected to the Utah State Legislature. buttes and monoliths. About 75 miles of the long intermountain west. In 1866, a quasi-military Through Hickman's efforts, 16 acres at upthrust called the "Waterpocket Fold," expedition of Mormons in pursuit of Indians Fruita were set aside as a state park in 1925. A extending like a spine from Thousand Lake penetrated the high valleys to the west of Capitol few days after the dedication, Hickman was killed Mountain southward to Lake Powell, lies within Reef. In the 1870s, settlers moved into high in a boating accident. the park boundary. "Capitol Reef" is the name valleys, eventually establishing Loa, Fremont, Shortly thereafter, Pectol was elected to the of an especially spectacular part of the Lyman, Teasdale, Bicknell (Thurber) and Torrey. presidency of the Associated Civics Club of Waterpocket Fold near the Fremont River. Meanwhile, men from the expeditions of Major Southern Utah, successor to the Wayne John Wesley Powell had begun to explore the Wonderland Club. The club raised $150 to Early History area and the first modern era explorers saw the interest a Salt Lake City photographer in taking a Only a few decades ago, the Waterpocket "reef" on May 12, 1871 from the slopes of series of promotional photos. For several years, Fold country was one of the most remote corners Boulder Mountain. the photographer—J. E. Broaddus—traveled and of the "lower 48." Easy road access came only In the early 1880s, settlers moved into lectured on "Wayne Wonderland." with the construction of a paved Utah 24 through Capitol Reef country. Tiny communities sprang In 1933, Pectol himself was elected to the the Fremont River canyon in 1962. up along the life sustaining Fremont River; legislature and almost immediately introduced a The earliest traces of major human activity Junction (later Fruita), Caineville, Notom, memorial to President Roosevelt asking for date from about the 7th century when aboriginal Aldrich, Giles, Clifton and Hanksville were creation of "Wayne Wonderland National peoples occupied the flood plains and high created. Monument" out of the federal lands comprising ground near the few perennial watercourses. The "Fathers of Capitol Reef National the bulk of the Capitol Reef area. Federal These people—called the Fremont Culture by Monument" agencies began a boundary assessment. archeologists—were related, apparently, to the Ephraim P. Pectol was born in 1875. As a Meanwhile, Pectol not only guided the pueblo-building Anasazi of the Four Corners child he lived in Caineville, a flood-ravaged government investigators on numerous trips but area. In the 13th century, all aboriginal cultures Mormon settlement a dozen miles east of Capitol escorted an increasing number of visitors. The in this area underwent sudden change; the Reef. In 1910 he went into business in Torrey and lectures of Broaddus were having an effect. Fremont Culture settlements and fields were operated a store there for many years. He served abandoned. A massive drought may have On August 2, 1937, President Roosevelt as Mormon bishop of Torrey from 1911 until contributed to the changes but no one is sure signed a proclamation creating a small "Capitol 1928. what happened to these hunter-farmers. Reef National Monument.'' Thirty-four years Pectol was sensitive to the rugged scenic later—in 1971—Capitol Reef would become a It appears that people did not again settle the beauty of the Capitol Reef area and was an avid huge national park by Act of Congress, a area for centuries. When the first white explorers Fremont Culture relic hunter. A private museum "pleasuring ground" for America. Visitors now— traveled in the vicinity of the Waterpocket Fold, in his Torrey store was widely known. and in generations to come—owe a debt of both Utes and Southern Paiute nomads were Pectol was anxious that the outside world gratitude to two Utahns with remarkable energy encountered. should come to appreciate the beauty of the area. and vision. He pressed a promotional campaign, furnishing stories and photos to periodicals and newspapers. 8_ scene The Reef and Jeepin' Try the Cathedral Valley Loop By George Davidson

"Four-wheeling"—contemporary slang for faces above that can wreck your oil pan if you the joys of exploring rough terrain with a four- don't have a skid plate. wheel drive vehicle—is not a major recreational Be Prepared activity in America's national parks. Most park roads are designed for passenger cars and a four- Use your head when you are planning this wheel drive just isn't needed. And, of course, any drive, especially in the dead of summer or winter. off road activity would not only mar the natural Carry tools and repair gear. beauty of the park, but bring swift enforcement You should plan for break down and have action from park rangers. everything to keep your family in good shape at least overnight. Just remember, water will be But 378 square mile Capitol Reef isn't like more precious than W-2 forms at tax time if most national parks in the "lower 48." It was set you're stranded in the summer heat and it can get aside only recently—1971—and hasn't been cold at night, real cold, in every other season but "developed" to the extent typical of older summer. national parks. It isn't likely to be either, at least for the next 20 years. The recently-approved, Spring is a real deceiver, the worst. economy-sensitive general management plan calls Temperatures can drop from 60 ° to 20 ° in a for almost no road improvements. morning, from cloudless skies to blizzard in hours. Late fall consistently displays the ideal Unpaved roads—except for the Scenic weather for any outdoor activity at Capitol Drive—mean fairly rough roads at Capitol Reef tired rig in the west. The Bentonite Hills—6 miles Reef—dry, cool, few insects. and spells enjoyment for the four-wheeler. The or so after you cross the river—have mired the Now, a word to recreational bikers of all visitor with a four-wheel rig holds in reserve a best. When wet, this peculiar gray clay is the breeds. You'll love a trip to Cathedral Valley too, real margin of safety with his superior traction slickest slime in North America. It can stop you but don't relax till you stop at an overlook. And and (usually) higher ground clearance. cold when it's well soaked and you'll surely stay stuck for awhile. Once you get past Bentonite take it slow around the corners. 'Twas blow sand Cathedral Valley Best Tour Hills, you're fairly safe from this kind of pitfall at a blind turn in the road that did this writer in The Cathedral Valley loop road is perhaps in the warmer months even if it starts raining. at only 15 mph. Ah, the contusions and skinned the best rough road "tour" in the intermountain forearms! west, let alone Capitol Reef National Park. Here On your tour you must cross some fairly The best family rig for back roads at the are a few extra pointers for the four-wheeler. wide, usually dry, white sand washes. Once again, reef? Well, I'd say that "tall is all." As a matter You'll need some clearance when you ford low range and second gear before you cross is the of fact, I'd rather take a high clearance two-wheel the Fremont River, especially during spring melt best prescription. But don't dilly-dally on your drive than one of those low clearance four-wheel or after a rain shower. There are two possible way through these washes. drives. crossings at River Ford; check out both for depth. The only other place where your four-wheel Real wide donuts on your rims aren't a lot of Don't worry much about the bottom; it's usually drive capability can make a safety difference is extra help in Capitol Reef country. The canyon unsilted gravel. Lock hubs, pop it into low the switchbacks of Cathedral Valley. Here, the country is the place for tires with lots of plies in range—second gear, if you've got it, and move snow stays longest in the spring and builds up the sidewall and an aggressive, probably noisy ahead slowly. My 258 CID six Scout likes low quickest in the late fall. tread. range (high or second) for most of the drive. Big Just remember, take it easy on this rugged, Capitol Reef is a great adventure for the eights may not need it. but incredibly scenic road. It snakes and twists; responsible four-wheeler. And you can help build stay well to the right when topping hood-tilting a positive image of jeeping; don't even leave Watch that Clay! rises or rounding cliff corners. You aren't turnaround tracks on the edges of park roadways. If it's been raining hard, reconsider your completely alone out there. There's often some Be sure to stop at the visitor center for the jaunt to Cathedral Valley even if you're pushing hefty rocks strewn on the roadway from cliff latest weather and road condition reports. the meanest, most powerful, high clearance, wide-

SHUTTERBUG SIDE

Good lighting is important for uninteresting picture. Novice Some Hints Think Small Too taking dramatic photographs at photographers often stand with their —Use a lens shade. This What to photograph? Where to Capitol Reef. Surrounded by endless backs to the sun while their subject attachment will keep the glare of the go? Just about anywhere you travel beauty, most visitors concentrate on face$ the glaring light source. bright Utah sun off the lens and within Capitol Reef National Park scenery, but correct lighting is also Successful photos can be taken in this reduce distortions in photos. subject matter abounds. Think small essential for good photos of people, manner if one does it in the early —Experiment with filters. A too. Don't be so overwhelmed by the plants and animals. morning or at dusk. "skylight filter" will reduce haze and grand scenic vistas that you forget to For pleasing "people pictures," help eliminate the bluish cast that add some variety to your photos. Lighting Differs backlighting and open shade are often appears in long-distance color Wildflowers add beautiful There are four types of lighting excellent. shots. splashes of color in the spring and to be aware of: sidelighting, Backlighting originates behind —For richer red rock tones, try late summer. Gnarled and twisted frontlighting, backlighting and open the subject and shines toward the photographing before 10:00 a.m. and junipers can be interesting. shade. photographer. It can be tricky to get after 4:00 p.m. during the warmer Petroglyphs photograph well and wild The sheer cliffs are especially an accurate exposure meter reading months. animals are always good subjects if impressive in early morning or late with backlighting, but results are —For deeper colors, underexpose you have the right equipment and afternoon sidelighting. Sidelighting often worth experimentation; the your film from Vi to one full stop. some luck. This list is endless. The comes from the right or left and subject is surrounded by an aura of This helps compensate for the only real limit is your imagination brings out stunning details in the light. washout tendency of the brilliant and sense of "seeing." rocks. It creates bold shadows on all Open shade is merely a light southwestern sun. film and is a favorite with shady area protected from direct professional landscape photographers. —Experiment with different sunlight. Open shade tends to soften films. A slow speed transparency film In the sunny Southwest, features and works well with portraits such as Kodachrome 25 will enhance frontlighting can be disasterous or closeups of plants or other objects. red tones. Other films, such as because it often produces a flat, Ektachromes, produce bluer tones overall.