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NORTHWESTERN GULF COAST Requires Alittleingenuityandmayputyourindependenttravel Spirittothetest © Lonely Planet Publications 164 lonelyplanet.com NORTHWESTERN GULF COAST •• Phetchaburi (Phetburi) 165 Climate 0 20 km NORTHWESTERN 0 12 miles Northwestern The northwestern gulf coast shares its weather GULF COAST patterns with the rest of central Thailand. To Ratchaburi To Bangkok Temperatures peak in the March to May hot (30km) season, followed by monsoon rains falling in (50km) Gulf Coast RATCHABURI the June to October wet season. November Phetchaburi through February is known as the ‘cool’ sea- Hat Chao Samran son and is the best time to visit. The afternoon 4 Thai vacationers have been flocking to Thailand’s northwestern gulf coast for decades, yet temperatures seem to hover around 32°C PHETCHABURI Hat Peuktian Kaeng somehow foreign tourists never got the memo. This thin isthmus connecting the Asian throughout the year, but evenings tend to be Krachan Gulf National Kheuan Cha-am of continent to the Malay Peninsula offers sleepy seaside towns and rugged shell-strewn sand cooler and there is little rain. Park Karng Krachan Thailand dunes, making it a great place to slough off Bangkok’s urban smog. Hua National Parks Hin Ko Singtoh Khao Takiap Most tourists will only experience the region through the window of a speeding train Kaeng Krachan ( p168 ) is the largest national park in Thailand, covering nearly half of Khao Tao Khao Yai Pak Nam Pran destined for the kingdom’s southern treasures. Those who decide to stop will enjoy a unique (1204m) Phetchaburi Province. This unending expanse Pranburi vacationing experience steeped in local tradition. of jungle is known for the Pala-U waterfall and Kheuan Ban Bang Pu excellent bird-watching. The undulating hills Pran Buri Quiet Phetchaburi makes for a pleasant afternoon of temple gazing. Stop in Cha-am to PRACHUAP Hat Laem Sala of Khao Sam Roi Yot ( p180 ) offer breathtak- KHIRI KHAN Khao Sam Roi master the lyrics of your favourite Thai pop-rock song as it blares along the beach dur- Kuiburi Yot National ing views of the gulf amid limestone cliffs. Park ing the usual weekend bustle. Countless guesthouses and resorts are crammed along the This is another spot bird fanatics can check Ao Khan Kradai beachfront thoroughfare, much like in Hua Hin, further south, which is the favoured resort off their lists. NORTHWESTERN GULF Ao Noi destination of the royal family. Prachuap Khiri Ao Prachuap PHETCHABURI (PHETBURI) Khan Ao Manao Dan Singkhon Ko Raet The dramatic crags of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park are definitely worth a visit, especially v.g}nv'gr(i[=iu Huay Yang COAST pop 47,200 Falls Ko Phing for wildlife enthusiasts. And at the southernmost point of the region, Chumphon earns its Hat Wanakon Unlike many other centres of worship around Ko Phang COAST COAST spot on the map as the official gateway to southern Thailand and the obligatory transfer the world, quiet Phetchaburi (also called MYANMAR (BURMA) Thap Sakae point for the diving-centric Ko Tao. Phetburi) feels surprisingly devoid of tourist Hat Laem Kum traffic. Dozens of temples lie frozen within the Hat Sai Kaew Ban Krut NORTHWESTERN GULF While transport between major destinations is a cinch, navigating the quieter regions city’s slowly paced quotidian life, each one a 4 Khao Thwe Hat Baw Thawng Lang requires a little ingenuity and may put your independent travel spirit to the test. relic reflecting the achievements of empires (891m) Bang Saphan Yai Hat Sombun that flourished long ago. The Khmer first Ao Bang Saphan Ko Thalu settled here in the 11th century, and since Bang Saphan Noi HIGHLIGHTS then the town has seen a steady stream of Khao Daen Noi Ko Sing inhabitants that have used the convenient (582m) Ko Sang Smiling at the sea while lounging in the riverside location as a central trading post. Ko Wiang shade of myriad beachside umbrellas in Today, the town has barely changed, and a Cha-am ( p169 ) stroll through the city centre will reveal a burg Gulf of Thailand teeming with crumbling wát mixed with old Pathiu Living like royalty in one of the swish Phetchaburi Tha Sae Ao Baw Mao seaside hotels around Hua Hin ( p172 ) Kaeng Krachan teak houses and misplaced concrete indicators CHUMPHON Ko Jarakhe National Park Ao Phanang Tak Ko Ngam Yai & Cha-am of a modern future. Ogling crumbling temples scattered around Chumphon Hat Pharadon Phap Ko Ngam Noi If you’re light on time, the sleepy religious Ko Samet Hua Hin 4 Phetchaburi ( opposite ) Pak town can be tackled in an afternoon visit – Kraburi Ko Maphrao Nam Hat Sairi Ka Poh Listening for rustling leaves while trying to Khao Sam Roi Yot glimpse the diverse array of wát along the Ao Ko Rang Kachiu National Sawi spot a furry monkey at Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park eastern riverbank during a half-day walking Park Sawi To Ko Tao National Park ( p180 ) tour (see the boxed text, p167 ). The under- (75km) Tako Estuary Pressing binoculars against your face while ground Buddhist shrine at the Khao Luang 4139 caves is also worth a visit. Hat Arunothai anticipating the arrival of a rare bird in 41 Kaeng Krachan National Park ( p168 ) RANONG Lang Suan Orientation & Information Isthmus of Kra If you’ve come by bus, you’ll be getting off Ranong Hat Tawan Chai 4006 Lamae Hat Suan Son close to Khao Wang and will have to take a To Phuket motorcycle taxi into the centre of town. Train (281km) To Surat Thani DRY SEASON: NOVEMBER-MAY WET SEASON: JUNE-OCTOBER users should follow the road southeast of the (105km) 166 NORTHWESTERN GULF COAST •• Phetchaburi (Phetburi) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com NORTHWESTERN GULF COAST •• Phetchaburi (Phetburi) 167 0 400 m PHETCHABURI (PHETBURI) 0 0.2 miles WALKING TOUR: WÁT TO SEE IN PHETCHABURI ACB D Sleepy Phetchaburi is known throughout Thailand for its collection of varied wát. The following To Khao Phetchaburi tour ambles through some of the town’s most striking relics from previous empires. Luang Caves Th Rot Fai (4km) Start Wat Yai Suwannaram 1 Finish Wat Mahathat Khao Phanom Distance 2.7km PHETCHABURI (PHETBURI) Kuat Duration 1½ hours 0 200 m To Royal Diamond (400m); WALKING TOUR 0 0.1 miles Bangkok (123km) Phetchaburi 2 3 Th Keeleetaya Wat Yai Suwannaram (1) Th Phongsuriya Th Matayawong Th Phetkasem Th Panichjaroen Th Surinleuchai START Mae Nam After crossing Mae Nam Phetchaburi Th Chisa-InTh Damnoen Kasem Saphan 14 (Phetchaburi River), walk about 300m along Chomrut 1 2 3 13 Th Phongsuriya until you come to a big tem- Tram Th Ratwithi ple on the right. This is Wat Yai Suwannaram, 6 1 END 2 4 originally built during the 17th century and Th Phrasong 4 Clock 5 9 Th Ratchadamnoen Saphan renovated during the reign of King Rama V Tower 12 Khao Wang Chomrut & Phra Nakhon Th Te Wiat (r 1868–1910). Legend has it that the gash Khiri Mae Nam Th Phongsuriya Th Damnoen Kasem Th Panichjaroen in the ornately carved wooden doors dates Th Matayawong Th Surinleuchai Th Suraphan Th Chisa-In Th Matayawong 11 10 to the Burmese attack of Ayuthaya. The main To Hospital 16 Th Phokarong (100m) bòht (central sanctuary) is surrounded by a Phetchaburi 15 cloister filled with sombre Buddha images. 8 The murals inside the bòht date back to the NORTHWESTERN GULF Th Tha Hin Th Phrasong To Hwy 4 (1km); 6 1730s and are in good condition. Next to the Clock Khao Banda-It Caves (2km); Tower 3 Kaeng Krachan National bòht, set on a murky pond, is a beautifully 5 Park (61km) Th Banda-It designed old hŏr đrai (Tripitaka library). Clock COAST INFORMATION Tower Police Station................................1 B2 Post Office...................................2 C2 Th Suraphan Wat Borom (2) & Wat Trailok (3) Th Damnoen Kasem COAST COAST TAT Office...................................3 A2 These wát are next to each other opposite Wat Yai Suwannaram on Th Phongsuriya, a little to SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES the east. They aren’t especially attractive, but they do have distinctive monastic halls and long, To Hua Hin Phra Nakhon Khiri........................4 A2 (63km) Th Matayawong graceful wooden ‘dormitories’ on stilts. Wat Borom..................................5 D2 NORTHWESTERN GULF Wát Kamphaeng Laeng...............6 D3 EATING Wát Ko Kaew Sutharam..............7 C4 Night Market.............................13 C2 Wat Kamphaeng Laeng (4) Wát Mahathat.............................8 C3 Th Tha Hin 4 Wát Trailok..................................9 D2 TRANSPORT South of the two wàts, on Th Phokarong, is this pleasant, 13th-century Khmer site. It has five Ъrahng Wat Yai Suwannaram................10 D2 Air-con Buses to Bangkok..........14 C2 Clock Tower (Khmer-style chimney-like towers) and part of the original kamphaeng laeng (laterite wall) is still Air-con Buses to Cha-am & 7 SLEEPING Hua Hin...................................15 A3 standing. The front Ъrahng contains a Buddha footprint. Two others contain images dedicated Gate Rabieng Rim Nam Guest House..11 C2 Ordinary Buses to Cha-am &(no entry) to famous lŏo·ang pôr (venerated monks), and two have been restored. If you’re feeling peckish, Sun Hotel...................................12 A2 Hua Hin...................................16 C3 there’s a decent on-site restaurant that serves up the usual assortment of Thai treats. tracks until you come to Th Ratchadamnoen, Sights & Activities Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam (5) then turn right and follow the main boulevard Looming west of the city, Khao Wang is studded Follow Th Phrasong back towards the town centre, turning left onto Th Matayawong. After about to the second major intersection (Th Chisa- with wát and topped by various components 800m turn right at the clock tower and look for signs to the Ayuthaya-period Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam In). The city centre is actually quite spread of King Mongkut’s 1860 palace, Phra Nakhon (Wat Ko).
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