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C. A. FORD, .The Restaurant & Bakery CHEAP ST., SHERBORNE. McGANN'S for Printing, Stationery, Cheap St., ~ Books, Toys, Fancy Goods, Sherborne 1' &c ., &c. Your patronage and recommendation respectfully solicited._ JOHN ISAACS, Half Moon St., Sherborne HAIRDRESSER AN D CIGAR MERCHANT PERFUMER. AN D IMPORTER.

Ladies' Hairdressing ai1d Large selection of high-class Manicure Saloons. Cigars and Cigarettes always in stock. Chiropody. Agent for all best Briar Pipe Hairwork of every description Manufacturers. made on the premises. Special quotations given for Toilet requisites from best Cigarettes in quantities of 500 English and Foreign houses. and upwards. Competent male and female We always guarantee our goods assistants in attendance. to be perfectly fresh. E. W. TAYLER, PHARMACEUTICAL · CHEMIST AND OPHTHALMIC OPTICIAN Private Room for Sight T esting. - SHERBORNE.- NOT only is SHERBORNE an interesting place because of its Architecture, and Historical Associations, but to many ladies of our land and others, it is famous for its ~ .i' ~ ~ ~ .JC .i' SILK INDUSTRY. No visitor to the old town should leave without making time to call at MESSRS. DINGLEY & SONS, Half Moon Street, and ask to be shewn these interesting and well-made articles of local industry. They have had the, privilege of supplying three British Queens and many other Ladies of this land, and hold many testi­ monials as to the quality, &c., of the goods produced. $ $ $ · ~ ~ ~ "" .JA ,J1. .JA Patterns can be had on application from DINGLEY & SONS DRAPERS, COSTUMIERS, FUR- NISHERS, ETC.---SHERBORNE. c. M. HUNT, AGENT FOR ALL BEST MAKERS OF CYCLES. A GOOD SELECTION ALWAYS IN STOCK.

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LARGE NUMBER OF GOOD CYCLES FOR HIRE. FIRST CLASS STOCK OF PRAMS AND PUSHCHAIRS, ETC., FOR SALE AND HIRE. Long Street, Sherborne

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A GUIDE TO THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF SHERBORNE AND YEOVIL WRITTEN BY MASTERS AND BOYS OF SHERBORNE SCHOOL. EDITED BY H. C. HUGHES UNDER THE SUPERVISION OF MR. W. B. WILDMAN. PUBLISHED BY THE SHERBORNE SCHOOL ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY. SHERBORNE, 1911. F. Bennett & Co., School Printers, Sherborne, Sherborne School Archaeological Society.

PRESIDENT; W. B. WILDMAN, ESQ.

VICE-PRESIDENTS ; THE VERY REV. ARCHDEACON WESTCOTT (SOMETIME HEADMASTER OF S HERBORNE SCHOOL) . REGINALD BLOMFIELD, ESQ., A.R.A. TEMPLE MOORE, ESQ., F.R.I.B.A.

HONORARY MEl'IBERS : THE HEADMASTER. T. FALCONER, ESQ., O.S.

(HON. SEC, 1 ST. PAUL 'S ECCLESIOLOGICAL SOCIETY) ,

HON. TREASURER : T. DENNIS, ESQ., CHE.-l.P STREET, SHERBORNE.

The Society was founded for the encouragement of the study of the Arts and Archaeology in Sherborne School. Several excursions are held terminally, and lectures are given in the Winter Terms. The membership is elective, the annual subscription 1/-. Non-members may attend lectures and excursions on payment of 3d. each. The Society publishes a Journal annually, and its proceed- ings are also reported in The Shirb!trnian.

HON. SECRETARY: A. CLAPTON, ABBEYLANDS. INTRODUCTION.

HIS Guide Book is written ·to supply the want, T long felt both by members of Sherborne School and by residents and visitors, of some full and inexpensive guide to the neighbourhood of Sherborne, which will contain fuller information than that even in Black's County Guides, will give it at a popular price and will also supply practical informa­ tion to travellers making Sherborne or Yeovil their centre. Mr. Wildman's excellent History of Sherborne touches on very little outside the town itself. The County Guides are expensive and inconvenient, especially as Sherborne is on the border of two Counties. The Borough Guide is too small to contain much information. It is hoped that this Guide will satisfy, to a large extent, that want. Every endeavour has been made to make it handy, artistic, complete, and well illustrated. The Editor would be very grateful for any corrections and suggestions. The articles have been written by various masters and members of the School ; the information has been carefully checked and amplified by Mr. E. B. A. Somerset, O.S., and Mr. W. B. Wildman, who is generally accepted as the greatest authority on all archaeological matters in this neighbourhood. ii

HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION TO THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.

The tract of country, referred to in this Guide, extends from llminster on the west to Shaftesbury on the east, and from Shepton Mallet on the north to Dorchester on the south, i.e., it is a square of which the diagonal is about 33 miles. It lies on both sides of the backbone or water-parting of the west of England; its northern half belongs to Somerset and-its southern to Dorset. It contains many ancient earth works, and many traces of ancient occupation from neolithic to Romano-British times. The southern half, owing to the fact that it is of chalk formation, has preserved more traces of ancient habitation than the northern ; yet we have close to Sherborne, where the Midford Sands crop up from beneath the oolite, traces of a neolithic people-in the numerous worked flints, which lie about and which must have been brought from a considerable distance. A district which includes Maiden Castle, Cadbury Castle and Ham Hill, together with that wonderful and mysterious relic, the Cerne giant, cannot fail to interest people. It is rich too in remains of the Romano-British times, whether we think of Dorchester and llchester or of the Roman roads or of the villas that are scattered so freely about, with here and there a Roman Camp, such as that which lies within the ramparts of Ham Hill, or that other well-known Camp within those of Hod Hill. It borders on the famous district of Cranborne Chase, which the excavations of General iii

Pitt-Rivers have made classic; nowhere else in England has such careful work been done on so large a scale, though we hope that before long from other sources will come information as accurate and instructive. It contains many fine Churches of various dates from pre-Norman times onward, many peculiarly fine dwelling houses, especially of Tudor times, and one rather remarkable old Norman Castle, that of Sherborne. It contains at least two intereeting mediaeval bridges, the more interesting perhaps be­ cause they are on a small scale. It contains at least on.e very beautiful trivial cross and many fragments of others. And last, bnt above all else, it contains a nearly perfect old English bishop's town, Sherborne, that has very little history except the record of the religious and intellectual work, which for centuries has been carried on here. No one, who knows the history of Sherborne, will. be surprised at our calling it a bishop's rather than an abbot's town. It contains one quaint town which owes its existence to an abbey, namely Cerne, and the site of another abhot's town, Milton, which the whim of a local magnate swept completely away. Concerning part of this tract of country there is a somewhat puzzling question, about which a few words must be said. The history of the way in which, and of the time at which the English won the northern half of it from the Welsh is quite clear: but as to the southern half the very reverse is the case. We propose to say a few words about this point. The matter has been carefully tracked out in my 'Life iv of S. Ealdhelm,' Chap. iv; therefore it will not be necessary to go into much detail now; it will suffice merely to give the result of that investigation. In the year 652, King Cenwealh, by his victory at Bradford-on-Avon, pushed the north-west frontier of Wessex up to the escarpment of the Mendips; he again defeated the Welsh in 658 at the battle of the Hills and drove them to the Parrett, thus adding to Wessex the whole of east Somerset, i.e. the bulk of the northern half of our district. The site of the Battle of the Hills cannot be definitely settled; it was somewhere be­ tween the Mendips and the Pan·ett, and there is no site, which has a better claim, than that of South Cadbury with its Sigwell or well of victory in the neighbourhood. We may well believe that the great fortress of Cadbury then passed into English hands, and along with that it is likely that Blackmore Vale and the site of Sherborne were also added to W e•sex. But the rest of Dorset, guarded on the east by the Forest of Selwood and on the north by the strong line of the Dorset Heights,-the chalk downs to the south of Sherborne,-was still held by the Welsh. Then followed a gradual advance of the English westward along the conntry, which lies between the main line of the South Western Railway on the south and the main line of the Great Western on the north. Thus Dorset was gradually cut off from the rest of West Wales, as the West of England was then called. Finally in 682 the West Saxon King Centwine, according to the English Chronicle, drove the Welsh to the sea. This seems to mean that then at last Dorset was won by the V

English: it certainly was English in 700. Thus the ' southern half of our district was won for Wessex, while I think that the western part of the northern half was won even before that, for the English seem to have taken Exeter by, if not before, 680, if we may trust what Willibald tells us about the early y ears of Winfrith, known in religion as S. Boniface, the Apostle of the Germans. W.B.W.

GEOLOGY, SHERBORNE AND DISTRICT.

Sherborne is situated on what is termed Inferior Oolite rock, an impure form of Limestone, which slopes upwards to the north west and is capped by another form of Limestone containing layers of sand hence called the Midford Sands. It is along the summit of this formation that the boundary line between Dorset and Somerset originally ran, though it has been much altered in recent times. The new Golf links lie on Midford Sand which can generally be recognized by the number of rabbits which burrow in the sandy layers. The Ham Hill stone of which the ~ chool is built comes from the same stratum. On descending these hills on the Somerset side, including such outliers as Cadbury, we find a few foothills and then a level plain which stretches to the Bristol Channel. The formation of which these consist vi

is termed Lias and is older than the Oolite. The foot­ hills consist of Marlstone, somtimes burned for Lime, and the level country of a blue or black clay or shale, hence the wet and formerly swampy nature of the land between Dorset and the Mendips which at one time caused places like Glastonbury to become secure dwelling places, much resembling Ely in the Fens of the Eastern Counties. Proceeding from the Inferior Oolite of Sherborne in a Southerly direction we cross the rest of the strata forming the Oolite division of rocks and finally reach the chalk a still newer formation. On the south side of the Yeo valley we find the Fullers-earth rock which is conspicuous as a hard Limestone rock forming the 'slopes' of the Sherborne side of the park. Walking through the park by say the path to Haydon we reach a second ridge of rock termed the Forest Marble over which the Dorchester road passes as it attains the summit of the West Hill. This rock slopes downwards towards Long Burton where we meet the next and newer rock termed the Combrash, not very thick but extending right across England, which makes good corn land. The Oxford clay is next encountered forming level wet ground, good for roses, which must be crossed as we travel towards Dorchester before we can reach the chalk. It also forms the upper part of the Stour valley, termed the Blackmore V ale from the quantity of peat growing there at one time, which is crossed by the • Salisbury road between Henstridge Ash and Stour Hill. \. Somerset ' l

LIA S CL Af" (I , 11 \ SECTION SHOWI NG GEOLOGI CAL FORMATION F ROJIT T HE DORSET H EIGHTS TO THE SOMERSET PLAIN vii

The chalk downs, edged on their northern side by a thin layer of Greensand, run through the southern half of the county and are termed the Dorset Heights, as being higher than the hills to the north of Sherborne. These Heights extend from Beaminster and Bridport (nearly) to Cranborne Chase and the chalk downs of Wiltshire. Hence if we could dig into the rocks and make a vertical section across the country, say from Cerne Abbas to Marston Magna, it would be something like what is diagr~matically represeuted opposite. The strata originally more or less horizontal, have by earth movements been made to slope so that, as we pass from the Lias in the north west to the chalk in the south east, we meet the escarpments or upturned edges of the rocks which gradually become more recent, the chalk having been deposited last. This kind of formation causes the Inferior Oolite to be steepest on the Somerset side, the Middle Oolite on the Yeo river side and the chalk on its northern edge. Hence if we desire extensive views over the country we go to the Midford Sands or the northern slope of the Chalk, say to Corton Beacon (646ft.) or to High Stoy (860ft.). The organic remains, animal and vegetable, termed Fossils, of the different strata vary much. The Lias is characterized by the enormous quantity of remaius of fossil fish and gigantic Saurians. Most of those seen in the School Museum have been obtained from the Lias cliffs near Lyme Regis. The Inferior Oolite, like the Lias too, contains large numbers of coiled shells viii termed Ammonities, of which there is a fine collection in the Museum derived from quarries round Sherborne. The Forest Marble rock is one mass of shells as can be seen in a pit on the left of the road from the top of the West hill to Lillington and also on the last rise of the park road going to Haydon. It was used for the dark marble shafts of the Early English work in the Abbey. Of the Corn brash fossils there is a splendid collection in the Museum some of which have never been named. The Oxford clay contains coarse-l ooking shells many of them of the Oyster type, while the chalk is full of shells most beautiful in structure and well preserved as this rock was deposited in deep water below disturbing currents. There are many places round Sherborne where in past time the rocks have been violently broken : some have been elevated above the rest and what we term Faults have been formed. One of these Faults runs along the Oborne valley and another crosses at right angles the Milborne Port road where it passes through a cutting as it attains its highest level. This latter Fault runs from the source of the streams on Poyntington Down by the west end of Henover Hill, east of Caundle Marsh till it meets another Fault which has come in a north easterly direction from Cerne Abbas. ix

LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS.

Many books have been written on the Wessex of Thomas Hardy, in the northern part of which Sher­ bome is situated. It may be useful in this Guide, to point out the chief places near Sherborne which appear in his writings. The town of Sherborne appears prominently in 'The Woodlanders' ; t11e Abbey is the Cathedral of fue Woodlanders' Country. The scene of this novel is laid chiefly around Middlemarsh, to the north of High Stoy Hill. 'Great Hintock' is Minterne Magna, just to the Soufu of High Stoy, and it was here that Giles Winterbourne was buried. The now destroyed inn at Minterue was the scene of the murder of Eustace Inglesant in Shorthouse's famous novel. We have not got Sherborne now as it was in comparatively recent years, at the time when the action of 'The Woodlanders' takes place. For with the destruction of the New Inn- Thomas Hardy's 'Earl of W essex ' Hotel-an interesting bit of old Sherborne passed away. It was one of the many spots in the town associated wifu ' The W oodlanders.' Beyond Yeovil is East Coker, the 'Narrobourne ' of 'A Tragedy of Two Ambitions.' To the south of East Coker is Melbury Osmund, in great part the original of fue 'Little Hintack ' at fue foot of High Stay in 'The W oodlanders.' H we go back to the 'Hintocks' and take the road southwards we shall come to 'Abbot's Cernel ' (Cerne Abbas) a curious semi-deserted village in a valley between high downs. X

Leaving Cerne and going still further south w e pass Charminster, and, when about a mile away from Dorchester, cannot help noticing a very picturesque old house, Wolfeton by name, the scene of the story of Lady Peuelope in 'A Group of Noble Dames.' No better idea of Dorchester-the centre of Hardy's W essex-could be got than by reading 'The Mayor of Casterbridge,' which contains some fine descriptions of the different earthworks, and of the wonderful Roman Amphitheatre, known as Maumbury, 'a huge circular enclosure with a notch at opposite extremities of its diameter north and south.' Just out­ side Dorchester, on the Wareham Road, is Max Gate, Thomas Hardy's house. Away to the north-east of the town is Puddletown, the 'Weatherbury' of 'Far from the Madding Crowd,' and here the road branches. Just off the main road is Milton Abbey, which occurs in 'The Woodlanders' as Middleton Abbey. William Barnes was born in 1800 at Rushay, near Pentridge, in Dorset. Soon after 1823 he began to write, chiefly philological studies, though some poetry and educational books also. In 1835 he started a school at Dorchester, and twelve years later he took holy orders and was appointed to Whitcombe near Dorchester, but he was forced to resign in 1852, finding the work of keeping up the school at the same time too much for him. His r eputation as a p oet now grew apace ; in 1859 a second series of dialect poems entitled 'Hwomely Rhymes' had been published, and he began to travel about through the country lecturing and reciting. In xi

1861 he was given a civil list pension of£70 a year, and the next year he broke up his school, and received the living of Winterborne Came, not far from Dorchester. He died on October 7th, 1886. Between Sherborne and Shaftesbury is East Stour, where 'Henry Fielding, the novelist, lived with his first wife, and where he indulged in those extravagances which brought him to speedy poverty and which he never had the opportunity of repeating. His wife was a Salisbury beauty, Miss Charlotte _Cradock by name­ the "Sophia Western" of his most famous novel. Her fortune of £1,500 enabled the young couple to live at East Stour for a year or so as "county people." When the money was exhausted he changed into a poor play­ wright in a back street in London. The beautiful Charlotte survived this misfortune some seven years, whereupon Fielding consoled himself by marrying her maid.' The poet Crabbe had the living at Evershot given him in 1782 by the Duke of Rutland, but through his duties as ducal chaplain at Belvoir Castle, he was in the main a non-resident priest so far as his Dorsetshire parishes of Frome St. Quentin and Evershot were concerned. The large Georgian house at Sherborne, in New­ lands, known as Sherborne Manor, was once the residence of the actor Macready, who was visited here by Dickens, xii

BIRD LIFE IN SHERBORNE AND DISTRICT.

The student of bird life will find a very happy hunting ground in the neighbourhood of Sherborne. The Yeo, the Stour, and the big lake by the Castle attract many interesting birds. In the long range of woods which run from Sherborne to Tbornford the Kestrel and the Sparrow Hawk may be seen. There, too, the Nightjar may often be heard ' churring' at night, and fortunately its nesting site is very difficult to find. An occasional Nightingale may be heard during a walk along the Lillington Road. In Honeycombe woods and around Sandford Orcas most of the small warblers are plentifully represented, and every year, Chiff-chaffs, Willow Warblers, Whitt:-throats-greater and lesser­ may be seen. The Wood Wren too has been seen there by at least one observer, but it is undoubtedly very rare. The Cuckoo is common all over the dish·ict. The Wryneck is scarce, but may sometimes be seen in the Park. The Redstad is, itl the immediate vicinity of Sherborne, very rare indeed. Not much has been seen of the Jay in recent years, due probably to the persecution of gamekeepers, but it sometimes may be found in the 'Holt ' woods. There are several rookeries, one iu the Park, another in the wood beyond Lenthay Common, and the third-the largest of all-at Sandford Orcas. There is a small Heronry in the Park, and the Lake is inhabited by Swans, Coots and Moorhens. Yellow Wagtails may always be seen in the meadows near the railway as it runs towards Yeovil, and here also there are generally a pair or two of Reed Sparrows. xiii

There are comparatively few Owls in the neighbour­ hood. The Tit family is very common, Long-tailed Tits are seen every year, and the Great, the Blue and the Cole Tit may be seen frequently. The Marsh Tit is comparatively rare, but it has been seen in the Yeo Valley, where also an occasional Kingfisher may be seen flashing past. The Meadow Pipit seems fond of the grassy banks on the Lillington Road, but the Tree Pipit is only occasionally seen. Jackdaws are in abundance everywhere. A very interesting and rare variety of this bird with a chocolate-coloured breast was found at Thornford last year. The Stone-chat, the Whit-chat, and the Wheatear are fairly plentiful in the district, especially on the heaths at Leigh and on the Poynting­ ton Downs. Goldfinches may often be seen in the orchards at Corton Denham, but the writer has never heard of a Hawfinch being seen in the neighbourhood. Sedge Warblers are plentiful on the bank of the Stour at Sturminster Newton. In conclusion, the student of birds will find the following walks very interesting from his point of view. Firstly, by Honeycombe woods to Thornford; secondly, up the Sand ford Orcas Road, then across the Golf Links and through the woods to Sandford Orcas, and on to the orchards at Corton Denham, and lastly, through the Park to the Henover and Holt woods. ------~-~---

xiv

FAUNA OF SHERBORNE.

The neighbourhood of Sherborne is justly celebra­ ted as a sporting country, and naturally foxes, hares and rabbits abound, but the most interesting mammal to the naturalist is the roe, which is to be found in the woods south of the town. Sherborne Lake is admirably suited for coarse fish and may contain pike of enormous weight ; pike of fair size certainly escape into the river. The river contains roach, perch and eels and great numbers of sticklebacks. The country is more favourable to land insects, and these have been more widely studied. The woods of Sherborne are productive of insects, and the roadside hedges, especially such as abound in Clematis, are not to be despisea. In the neighbourhood of Long Bm·ton a change of soil produces a change of vegetation and consequently a set of insects more or less new. Sonth of this again comes the chalk country with its character­ istic insects. The butterflies of Sherbornc are not of special note: the Large Tortoiseshell (Vanessa polychloros) is perhaps the most noteworthy capture of recent years. Among the moths an uncommon footman (Lithosia griseola) seems to occur regularly every year, while a rare clear­ wing moth (Trochilium myopiforme) has been found in a Sherborne garden. The caterpillar of the Death's head hawk (Acherontia atropos) is sometimes plentiful on potatoes, but, very hard to breed. The Convolvulus hawk (Sphinx convolvuli) was common in the autumn of 1901, but has not since been seen. Among less rare insects may be noted the creamspot tiger (Arctia villica), the rarer kind of marbled beauty (Metachrostis muralis), Eucymatoge vitalbata, Tephroclystis isogrammaria and Hydriomena procellata, all beaten out of Clematis; the Oakeggar (Lasiocampa querens), the Drinker (Odonestis potatoria) and the Lappet (Gastropacha quercifolia) ; the last three are commoner as caterpillars than as perfect insects.

FLORA.

The following list comprises some of the less common species of the district: all occur within three miles of Sherborne. It is interesting to note that Samolus and Apium graveolens are seldom found far from the sea. Their occurrence would seem to point to a time when the tides reached the neighbourhood of Yeovil. Aquilegia vulgaris (Henover Hill). Reseda lutea (Henover Hill). Hypericum Androsaemum (Honeycombe). Hippocrepis comosa (Crackmore, below the flagstaff). Lathyrus nissolia (near Lillington). Lathyrus sylvestris (Sandford Road). Saxifraga granulata (Poyntington Down). Hippuris vulgaris (Silverlake). Apium graveolens (ditches near West bury Bridge). xvi

Inula Helenium (Caundle Marsh). Campanula hybrida (occasional in cornfields). Lithospermum officinale (Lillington Road). Cynoglossum officinale (near Stockbridge Farm). Samolus Valeran4i (BradfordAbbas). Neottia Nidus-avis (Honeycombe}. Orchis latifolia (near Sandford Orcas). Habenaria viridis (below Honeycombe). Ophrys apifera (near Honeycombe, Thornford, &:c.). Paris quadrifolia (Honeycombe, wood near Haydon, &c.). Colchicum autumnale (below Honeycombe).

SPORT.

CRICKET AND TENNIS. The Sherborne Cricket and Lawn Tennis Club possesses an excellei!t and beautifully situated ground on the Terrace. Informa­ tion may be obtained from C. A. Ford and G. K. Trowbridge, joint Cricket Hon. Secretaries; or B. Blake, Tennis Hon. Secretary. GOLF. The Sherborne Golf Club has a nine-hole course on the Sandford Orcas road, about 1;1 miles from the town. The course was made in the latter part of 1910, so that it is still somewhat rough; but the greens are now in excellent condition, and the fairways improving steadily. It is situated on high and hilly ground, and good use has been made of the irregu- xvii larities of surface iu planning the holes. The annual subscription is £1 10s. with entrance fee of £1. Terms for visitors: 1/6 a day, 5/- a week: special terms for longer periods. Joint Hon. Secretaries, C. H. Hodgson, The Abbey Grange, and E. W. Tayler, Cheap Street. There is also a good nine-hole course at Yeovil, and a short but sporting six-hole course at South Cadbury. HUMTING. The district is hunted by the well­ known Blackmore Vale pack, undet· the mastership of F. J. B. Wingfield Digby, Esq., of Sherborne Castle. The Sparkford Vale Harriers. also hunt in the neigh­ bourhood. PoLO. The Blackmore Vale Polo Club has three grounds, near Milbome Port; two at Spurles for wet weather use, and one at Pnrse Caundle for dry weather. Hon. Secretary, the Hon. L. Lambart, Marsh Court, Sherborne. SHERBORNE.

SHERBORNE is a small town of growing size and importance, three miles from the border of Dorset and Somerset, with a station on the main line of the L. & S.W .R. It is the chief town in North Dorset, the seat of two large Schools. The town is in the centre of a varied and most interesting neighbourhood. To the south, beyond the fertile stretch of North Dorset and Blackmore Vale, is the range of chalk hills which divides the county: to the north the high ground drops to the plain of Somersetshire. The town itself has still a very old­ world appearance in spite of extensive rebuilding, and the old streets are very picturesque. Close to the station are the Pageant Gardens, laid out as a memorial of the Pageant held here in 1905, The road to the right of the gardens is South Street, once Ludborue Lane: after meeting Half-moon Street it becomes Cheap Street and the principal street of the town. Close to this corner is the Parade-a paved open space, with the old Conduit removed from the Cloister Court of the Abbey in the middle; the street to the right is Long Street, leading to Castleton. An old gateway next to the black and white Sun Inn leads to the Abbey Close. On the right is the old gate­ way of the School, leading into the old court with the Dining Hall on one side and the Masters' rooms in the Lady Chapel on the other. The wrought iron gates of the Close are 0f fine XVIII century work. On the south side of the Close is the Almshouse of SS. John. The School Buildings lie all to the north of the Abbey, and may be reached by the gate at the north-west end of the Close which opens on the School road. On the left are the Carrington Buildings and W estcott Art School, built in 1910. Behind these are the Fives 2

Court, Carpenter's Shop and Swimming Bath. On the right is a block of classrooms and the Big School room: a door opens through the Cloisters into the 'Courts,' the large gravelled Quadrangle of the School. The road winds round past the Gateway which is on the north side of the Courts, and so joins Cheap Street. The large building on a hill on the left is the Yeatman Hospital. The top of the town is called Greenhill, and it was through this that the Coach road went. The bay windowed Tudor building on the south corner is the cbantry of St. Thomas of Canterbury: close to it is the entrance to Newlands, a broad street which descends to Castleton. In New lands is Sherborne Manor, a great Georgian Mansion, for some time the residence of Macready, and Newlands Manor, a picturesque XVIIth century Gothic house with a fine oriel window from the Abbey. Castleton is notable for the little Church which Sir W alter Raleigh built there while owner of Sherborne Castle : it was rebuilt late in the XVIIIth century. Close to it is the entrance to the Old Castle ruins, permission to visit which can be obtained on Mondays and Thursdays from the Estate Office, Cheap Street. The large and rapidly increasing Ladies' College is just outside Sherborne on the Bradford Abbas road: and was founded in 1899, on the model of Cheltenham College, and has increased very rapidly. The central block of the buildings was opened in 1903 by the Marquis of Londonderry. Large boarding houses have been built to east and west of this; the large block to the east was opened in 1911 by Princess Victoria of Schleswig Holstein. 3

DORCHESTER ROAD.

LILLJNGTON-HOLNEST-MINTERNE- CERNE ABBAS­ CHA RMINSTER-DORCHESTER-WOOTTON GLANVTLLE­ PULHAM-BUCKLAND NEWTON-PUDDLETRENTHIDE. The Dorchester road passes over Westbury bridge and up Sherborne hill. To the left is the road to Holwell, Sturminster Newton and Milton Abbas (page 9), to the right that to Lilliugton, ' the obscure ' past woods full of bluebells in spring. It is joined by a footpath across the fields from the Thornford road. LILLINGTON now consists practically of no more than a little one-aisled Church, and a large old barn, nearly as large as the Church. Here was once the Mansion of the Cole family, surrounded by terraces and fish ponds ; and in the Church is, according to Hutchins, though Sir Frederick Treves• could not find it, a stone with this epitaph. Reader you have within this grave A Cole rak'd up in dust, His courteous fate saw it was late And that to bed he must. Then do not doubt the Cole's not out Tho' it in ashes lies, The little spark, now in the d ark, Will like the Phcenix rise. LONGBURTON, the first village along the Dorchester road, has a pleasant little Church containing a large Renaissance canopied tomb of members of the Winston family, 'descended of many anncient and noble Howses, both British and English.' The tomb was erected early in the XVIIth century, soon after a branch of the Winston family had settled near here, the seat of the family then being at Standish in Gloucestershire. Further along the road a turning leads to W ootton Glanville, the home of the Churchills, and Sir Winston Churchill of that place was the father of the great Duke of Marlborough. The name is familiar to us in one of their descendants. * Treves, 320. 4

At HOLNEST is a Mausoleum ' of marvellous hideousness' in the churchyard of a quiet little Church. The erector of the mausoleum has also raised a statue of himself in bronze in the grounds of Holnest House, a fine classic Mansion in a handsome park. A turning to the left leads to Wootton Glanville, Pulham and Buckland Newton (page 6). Further along the Dorchester road are the beautiful common and wood of Middlemarsh. The wood is the scene of Hardy's 'Woodlanders 'and it also inspired the poem 'In a wood.' The road then rises and crosses the downs through a dip on the left of the grand High Stoy hill, and goes on to MINTERNE MAGNA , the seat of Lord Digby. The old house, Hardy's ' Great Hintock Court ' in ' The First Countess of Wessex 'is replaced by a fine modern building designed by Mr. Arnold Mitchell. The property formerly belonged to the Churchills, and the rebuilding of the house is ascribed to General Charles Churchill, brother of the Duke of Madborough. The little Church is full of monuments to Napiers and Churchills-mostly florid and pompous: among them is 'one very small, very plain tablet of white marble on which is engraved in the simplest manner the following:- " Here reposeth ye most virtuose, Most obligingly and charitably good Lady Blanch Napier." She died in 1695, " languishing," it is sad to say, " under a tediouse sickness." ' * A Manor House and a Church in a Park are all that is left of Upcerne, but Cerne Abbas,t the next village, is a place of the greatest beauty and interest. CERNE ABBAS is the site of one of the great Dorset Abbies. It was founded by Athelmar, Earl of Cornwall, in 987, on an older foundation. The first Abbot was the scholar ffilfric sent to teach the monks Latin and the Benedictine rules: for them he translated his homilies into Anglo-Saxon and also compiled a Latin grammar in his native tongue. Cnut plundered Cerne, and afterwards, when he was settled on the throne, • Treves, 327. ; Treves, 332. 5 richly endowed it. To Cerne, in the spring of 1471, came Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI, with her only son. She landed at Weymouth and there learnt that Warwick had been defeated at Barn et and that her cause was lost. 'She and her boy came across the hills from Weymouth and sought sanctuary within the quiet walls and comely gardens of Cerne Abbey.' One of her attendants was Morton, who had been brought up at the Abbey, and who was afterwards Cardinal and inventor of Morton's Fork. The Abbey ruins are reached by a path at the side of the Manor House at the top of the street: a path to the right through a gate leads to St. Augustine's Well. 'Of the Abbey little remains now but the Gatehouse-a glorious building of golden-grey stone, standing in a cluster of trees.' It has a majestic two-storied oriel window and a rose tree growing over the arch below. In a part of the Abbey buildings close by is a 'tiny oriel window of the quaintest kind w ith little Gothic lights full of diamond panes and a roof of stone slabs covered with moss and weeds.' The little town 'is silent and well nigh deserted . . nothing went well for long in Cerne after the last monk slinked out of the Abbey.' Many of the houses are empty and fallen down and there is a hush upon the streets. ' The Church too is unchanged: there are high pews with doors, a fine oak pulpit, dated 1640, with a sounding board above and a clerk's pew below.' On the side of the hill above the town is a great figure cut out on the hill side. It is probably Pre-Roman: nothing is known of it, but it is told 'that this figure commemorates the slaying of a great destructive giant by the people of Cerne as he lay asleep on their hill gorged with the fat sheep of Blackmore.' The next village is Nether Cerne and then comes Godmanstone with its very tiny Inn. CHARMINSTER, a village about two miles from Dorchester, possesses a fine Church, chiefly of Transi­ tional work. 'A sunless Church' says Hardy. ' Whose mildewed walls, uneven paving stones, And wasted carvings passed antique research; And nothing broke the clock's dull monotones.' WOLFETON HOUSE, the home of the Trenchards, on the left of the road, Hardy describes as ' an ivied 6

Manor House flanked by battlemented towers, more than usually distinguished by the size of its mullioned windows.' DORCHESTER, the County town of Dorset, is a town of great interest. It is full of Roman remains­ the camp of ' Pummery,' the Amphitheatre, the Roman Wall and the splendid collection in the Museum: and it is the centre of the 'Hardy Country.' St. Peter's Church and the Church of the suburb of Fordingbridge, Judge Jeffries, house and Napper's Mite Almshouse should be visited. ln St. Peter's Church is the tomb of Jolm White, one of the founders of Massachusetts and another of Denzil Holles, one of the five members of 1642. South of Dorchester is Maiden Castle, a very fine Celtic stronghold; also Came Rectory where William Barnes, the poet lived. On the way to Came is the house of Mr. Thomas Hardy, Max Gate. WOOTTON GLANVILLE is reached by a turning to the left about five miles along the Dorchester road. It is chiefly noted for Round Chimneys Farm, the remains of a stately Jacobean Mansion, once the residence of the Churchills. Here lived for some time John Churchill and his sister Arabella, before they left it for London and fame. The chimneys, which give the house its name, are very small and insignificant. The Church is practically in the Rectory garden: a large sign post points the way to the Rectory, and a path winds round through the garden to the Church, a small building, much over-restored, though the exquisite XIVth century Glanville Chapel, has been left un­ touched. Under the rich Dec. windows are two canopied arches: in one rests an old Knight: the other is filled with bits of old stonework, mostly in good condition, left there by the restorer- a mute protest against his own work. In the Church are several picturesque XVIIth century Monuments. PULHAM has a little, much restored Church. The fine XVth century niche has been put into the north wall of the chancel ; the squints have old painted wooden frames. Over the porch is a small room which was used, says Hutchins, 'for the 4ressing and undressing of infants when immersion was used in 7 baptism.' As terminals to the dripstone of the west door are 'two archaic figures, one squatting in prayer, the other apparently in chains.' Hutchins mentions this inscription on a flat tomb near the tower, but Sir Frederick Treves searched for it in vain:- ' Under this monument enter'd doth lie The mirror of admired husbandrie Die Carter's corps-whose soul with triumph sings Sweet halleluyahs to the King of kings.' In the parish of Pulham is King's Stag Bridge, over a picturesque, rush grown rivulet. King Henry Ill, when hunting in these parts, had seen 'a beautiful and goodly white hart,' and spared its life: but Sir Thomas de la Lynde, Bailiff of Blackmore Forest, found it and after a hot chase struck it dead at the foot of this bridge. The King was deeply moved and seized Sir Thomas and his companions and 'cast them into prison and loaded them with heavy fines': and he laid a tax upon the whole valley. This tax is the White Hart Silver exacted from the White Hart Vale, which the Rev. Thomas Fuller, the merry rector of Broadwindsor, paid with the remonstrance, 'Myself hath paid a share for the sauce who never tasted the meat.' At the foot of the hills near here is BUCKLAND NEWTON, a pleasant little village with a stately, quiet Church. The early English chancel is very dignified and there is an ancient Alms-box of curious design. The road past Buckland Newton leads on in a 'valley parallel to that of the Dorchester road, between Downs which are covered with cornfields. At Alton St. Pancras is a dignified Georgian Rectory w ith fine, urn-topped gateposts, but the Church has been re-built • in the early English style.' The next village is PYDDLETRENTHIDE, the first of the Pyddle or Puddle villages. Its lofty white tower is much like the tower of Dorchester St. Peter's, with handsome battlements of yellow stone. Delightful animals crawl about on the buttresses of the Church: but the inside is dull and ordinary. A very pleasant path leads over the downs to Cerne, running among cornfields, looking far over the grey downs: a perpetual freshness is in the air and every valley and cleft is filled with foliage and flowers of the 8 deepest, richest colours. From the top the road falls precipitately to Cerne, many hundred feet below, 'curled up,' says Sir Frederick Treves, 'like a dor mouse in a sunny corner.' Beyond Puddletrenthide is Puddle­ town with a Church famous for its XVIIth century woodwork-ceiling, pulpit, pews and singers' gallery. The Athelhampton aisle is filled with the tombs of the • Martins, the ancient possessors of Athelhampton house. In the time of Sir Frederick Treves it was still ' one of the few Churches in the County which has been happy in escaping the hand of the restorer.' Now the Vicar, in spite of the most vigorous opposition, has pulled down the XVIIth century Gothic chancel and r eplaced it by one of XXth century Perpendicular. Athel­ hampton Hall is one of the most glorious of old Manor-houses. Its Hall is XVth century, while the new wing was added in the reign of Henry VII. Its present owner found it reduced to a farm-house: he has filled it with old furniture and he has surrounded it with lovely gardens of fountains and terraces and clipped yew hedges. 9

MILTON ABBAS ROAD.

HOLWELL-HAZELBURY BRYAN-BULL BARROW­ MILTON ABBAS-HILTON-BINGHAM 'S MELCOl\IBE. The road to the left at the top of Sherborne Hill leads to THE CAUNDLES, which have restored XVth century Churches. A lane to the right leads to FOLKE CHURCH, a Gothic revival Church of 1628, rebuilt in 1875, containing much old >IToodwork. H.OLWELL has a very pleasant Church, tastefully kept. The large XVth century windows are filled w ith clear glass, ·so that from the Church you can look out on orchards and fields. The north aisle has a fine panelled roof and there is an interesting Jacobean pulpit and hour-glass. Near the road is a most exquisite old purple .brick farm-house. To the east is FIFEHEAD NEVILLE, where Roman remains have been discovered. The country through which this road passes .is the fairest in Dorset-bright green fields where the springs are never dry, with a back ground of blue-green chalk downs, marked with large white patches, which are chalk pits. The highest and central dowil is Bull Barrow, the chief height in Dorset. The road passes through HAZELBURY BRYAN, where is a Church with old stained glass. About a mile to the right is MAPPOWDER. The chief feature of this Church is a tiny cross-legged effigy in armour, holding a heart in his hands. ' The figure is supposed to be either a monument to a boy, erected by a fond mother who had dedicated him to the crusades, or to a son who had died while his fatller was fighting under the banner of the cross,' or a crusader's heart shrine. These little figures have been found in other Churches.* Mappowder was formerly the seat of the Cokers, of ;whose mansion the only remains are two curious stone gate posts, surmounted by blackamores' heads. Beyond Hazel­ bury Bryan the road parts, one road going over Bull Barrow, the other lazily round it. Nestling at the foot * Treves. 10 of the Barrow, among the tall tree clad slopes, is the little simple Church of STOKE W AICE, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, and an exquisite farmhouse, with a beautiful Jacobean door, surmounted by a broken architrave. The place is a very pa1·adise of peace. You walk up the steep lane on to the high sunlit slopes and the whole of North Dorset is spread out at your feet. The Pilgrim's way stretches along the downs to east and west. The view is only bounded on the north by Dunkerry Beacon, the Quantocks and the Mendips, and on the south by Portland and the Isle of Wight and the Sea. Southwa1·ds lie the soft low Pm·beck hills, and the purple waters of Poole. The sun shines on the white chalk cliffs of Studland and the glowing dim horizon of the sea, on the wild stretches of Egdon H eath, and on the pineclad slopes which still hide Bournemouth from view. Between Bull Barrow and the sea the fields slope down, broad and flat, into the vale of Blackmore, so that there is no feeling of distance, but it seems as if the Pm·beck hills were hardly more than five miles away and the twenty miles between here and Bournemouth seem hardly ten. The monastic buildings of MILTON ABBEY were pulled down, with the exception of a very fine hall with a roof of Irish oak, and the Refectory of the Monks. It ha snow only its long choir and transepts with a tower at the intersection : it seems doubtful whether there ever was a nave. The long line of decorated windows and the flying buttresses between them are very graceful. The beautiful reredos was.built in 1492, and on a wall hangs an old tabernacle with richly ca:rved and painted wooden canopy. In the choir are fine sedilia. The many mouldings and shadov.rs of the Decorated arches stand out boldly against the white vaulting, carved on ribs of yellow stone. There are two venerable paintings below· the organ gallery, ascribed to the time of Edward I\T-one of Athelston and the other of his mother E cgwyn. In the N. Transept is a monument to Lord and Lady Milton by Carlini. St. John Baptist's Chapel in the North .Aisle contains the canopied tomb of Sir John Tregonwell. The Abbey was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. The road to Bingham's Melcombe is through the 11

Park and by HILTON, where is an interesting church with a fine set of Perpendicular windows and a fan tracery roof to the porch. In the church are twelve ancient paintings on wood of the apostles. BINGHAM'S MELCOI>IBE is in a little valley over the crest of the hill, and the road winds round to it through Anstey. The house was for more thau six centuries the residence of the Binghams, and now the home of Mrs. Boswell Smith. The gatehouse was built in the time of Edward I, and the house under Edward IV. The house was the headquarters of the Parliament troops in the Civil War, so probably the portraits of Strafford and Laud in the hall were pillaged from the Bankes at Corfe. Two eagles with outspread wings crow1+ the gateposts. In the house are preserved some 'moons,' big round lamps fixed on tall poles, with a catch at the lower end to fit into a stump, carried in bygone days by postillions; also an immense oval table of Spanish chestnut, stand­ ing on an old sea chest, and said to have been taken from th.e wreck of one of the Armada galleons. In the \. garden is a great bowling green, and beside it an old yew hedge, with a formal garden behind and a columbarium. 12

SALISBURY ROAD.

0EORNE - MILEORNE PORT - PURSE CAUNDLE - TEMPLECOJ\IEE-BUCKHORN WESTON-EAST STOUR­ SHAFTESEURY-HENSTRIDGE-ST ALERIDGE-STURJI1IN- STER NEWTON. The Salisbury road passes north-east from Sher­ borne. MILEORNE PORT lies about three miles from Sherborne on this road. It was formerly a town of some importance, was the seat of a flourishing leather trade and a pocket borough. The church, which stands back on the right of the road, is of great interest, though much affected by restoration. The chief feature is the Norman tower with its stair turret ; close to it in the south wall is a large Norman doorway, the tympanum of which is carved with dragons. The church is cruci­ form, and the tower is supported by huge Norman piers, with solidly moulded bases and capitals of shallow-wide carving ; those of the E. piers have no abacus. The east and west arches are Dec. Other pieces of Norman work in the church are the greater part of the S. transept, the windows of the vestry, and the Norman window laid bare between the arches of the choir, also the massive font. The richly-moulded Norman door now built into the wall of the Guildhall is probably from the west front of the church. The arcading with shallow carving in its capitals on the south wall of the choir was probably built in from the Saxon church ; the masonry of the old west front was certainly Saxon. The old nave was pulled down and a new and larger one built. There is an E.E. low side window of two lancets in the south wall of the choir ; the hinges for the shutters of this window remain. Under the S. window of the S. transept is a recess containing an effigy, while a fine XVth century wooden screen fills the E. arch of the tower. A door into a garden on the north side of the churchyard is arched with a stone bearing an inscription on its under side. At the east end of the town is Venn House, the seat MILBORNE PORT CHURCH (FROM S .W.) l\liLBORNE PORT CHURCH (VIEW ACROSS TRANSEPTS) 13 of the Medlycotts. The house was built in 1698, and has been little altered. It was designed by a Richard Grange, whose original draughts still exist, and so show the alterations clearly. The present road cuts through the garden on the north side between the house and the grellt avenue of trees. The house is a simple oblong block of pinkish brick, with freestone for all the carved and moulded work. The design is a favourite one of the time, 'a classic order comprehending two storeys, with a third storey superposed as an attic above the entablature and surmounted wit11 a balustrade.' Milborne Port has a station 1~ miles away on the L. & S.W.R. Cl ose to the railway is an ancient camp with steep flanks, d efended on the weakest side with a large rampart. A turning to the right beyond Milborne Port leads to PURSE CAUNDLE, where lies buried the distinguished physician, Dr. Nathaniel Higlunore, who died in 1685. He practised at Sherborne, and made himself immortal by his anatomical work. The church contains, among other things, an interesting little brass, and the many­ gabled Elizabethan manor house has an exquisite oriel window overlooking the street. About three miles further the Salisbury road cuts another road from Wincanton and Templecombe to Henstridge and Stalbridge, &c. A long wait at TE~lPLECOJIIBE Junction might be employed in seeing the village, on the rising ground to the south of which are the remains of a preceptory of the Knights Templars, founded in the XIIIth century by Serlo Fitz Odo. From this foundation the place takes its name. In an orchard at the back of the farm are the ruins of a small chapel. The church is old, but not of great interest ; it has a curious S.E. font, while in the village are the old stocks. Three miles north of Templecombe is BucKHORN WESTON, where are some curious old paintings on wood. SHAFTESBURY, or Shaston, is situated at the end of a great hill south of Gillingham, accessible only on the north side by a long road winding up the hill from the L. & S.W.R. station at Semley. The nunnery was founded by Alfred the Great. The body of Edward the Martyr was brought here in 880 from Wareham, where 14

it had been taken after his murder at Corfe. The shrine became rich with the offerings of pilgrims from all parts of Europe. In the Abbey was buried also the Queen of Edmund Ironside, and here in 1313 were imprisoned the daughter and wife of Robert Bruce. The town is not so rich as it was. Part of the great embankment wall of the Abbey remains on Gold Hill, at the top of which is St. Peter's Church. The Abbey itself was situated near the end of the hill; traces of its foundations have been laid . bare. At the southern edge is a delightful wooded walk with a magnificent view over Blackmore Vale. To the east lie the bare wind-swept heights on the southern slope of which is Cranborne Chase, a great hunting ground of King John. General Pitt-Rivers' excavations of the pit-village may be seen at \Voodcuts, and his famous museum is at Farnham, not far away. HENSTRIDGE, Stalbridge, Stnrminster Newton and Shillingstone have stations on the S. & D.J.R. At Henstridge are some interesting ruins and a fine inn. STALBRIDGE is not a beautiful village, and its Church is much restored. In it is an ancient tomb hearing the effigy of a corpse in a shroud. Among the XVIIth century persons of curious names buried in the churchyard are Ismond Plainewit, Matthew Foole and Temperance Collins. In one street is a venerable ~tone cross raised on four steps; the much-worn carvings represent Christ, the Virgin and St. John. Nothing but two gateposts now remains of Stalbridge House. The road passes Bagber, where William Barnes spent his boyhood, walking in every day to the National School at Sturminster. STURl'IINSTER NEWTON is a pleasant town above the river Stem·. The Boys' National School is near the Church and is a small building with stone-mullioned windows and prominent buttresses. On a steep mound by the ancient bridge stood the Castle, of which nothing is left ; here are the remains of a rectorial house, occupied by a monk from Glastonbury. SHILLINGSTONE is notable for the great forts that guard that passage where the Stour passes through a gap in the chalk downs : and for its Church restored by the late G. F. Bodley, R.A. 15 Hambledon and Hod Hill were British strongholds of importance commanding the passage of the Stour. Hod Hill seems to have been a fortified town ; there still remain the double ramparts and fosse, and the squar e Roman earthworks in the north-west corner. Within the inner wall are many hollows in the grass shewing where the pit-dwellings are. Hambledon Hill standing north of Hod Hill, is much larger and more formidable, the rampart rising on the south-east side to a h eight of 29 feet. The line of downs passes westwards to Bull Barrow (in which is the Celtic Camp of Rawlsbury) to High Stoy and Batcombe Down. 16

BRISTOL ROAD.

CADBURY, SOUTH AND NORTH-COMPTON P AUNCEFOOT­ SUTTON MONTIS-CASTLE CARY-BRUTON. The Bristol road is uninteresting for the first two miles, though the view S.E. of Melbury Down and Hamildon Hill is very fine: but when the Red Sign­ post, the usual goal of school training runs, is passed, in intervals of the bare downs you get great glimpses of the Somerset plain and of the sweep of fortified hills from Ham Hill to Caclbury. The road to the right at Red Post leads to Charlton Horethorne and Wincanton. A mile further the road branches into two: one, the old coach road, falling to the left, to Corton Denham and so to Cadbury; the other going straight on, in magnificent country, past Compton House, a castellated sham Gothic building, and COMPTON PAUNCEFOOT, where is a pretty little XVth century Church with a delicate spire, and also a stately XVIIIth century Vicarage. The road passes through country formed by great wedge-shaped rocks, their narrow tops covered with trees, round to the north side of Cadbury hill. The road through Corton, where is a pleasant modern Chllrch, passes through Slgwell, and then through a steep pass, and Cadbury Hill is full in sight, towering llp stately and unassailable. It may well have been across these pleasant buttercup fields that Arthur and all his Knights rode to meet and crush the Saxons at Mount Badon. SoUTH CADBURY village, which lies at the eastern end of the hill, has a little Church dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, w ho is probably the bishop represented in the old fresco on the splay of a window in the south aisle. At the other end of the hill is SuTTON MONTIS, which has a pleasant little Norman and Decorated Church, with a pre-Reformation bell and box pews. The approach to the hill is up a lane on the east side, running up from the village of South 17

Cadbury, and the view from the top is magnificent. Southwards the plain is bounded by a great line of hill fortresses ; it was formerly all marsh and impassable except in summer. In front r ises Glastonbury Tor and the ' island valley of Avilion •-.:.the tr aditional site of Arthur's gr ave, full in v iew of this his old fortress.• Cadbury was probably ttsed in Roman times as ' castra aestiva ' by the garrison of Ilchester . Across the hills to the south is Badbury Rings, n ear Wimborne, almost certainly the Mons Badonicus, where the invading West Saxons were completely defeated.t It was probably, Mr. Wildman thinks, by Sigwell (Well of Victory) the little v alley at the mouth of w hich Cadbury stands, that the Battle of the Hills was fought in 658, when Kenw ealh beat the Welsh and 'drove them to the Pan·ett.' 'In some fields at the foot of Cadbury, Mr. Bennett, the Rector of th e Parish, foun d some trenches filled with skeletons of men and boy s (no females) throw n in pell mell: prob­ ably the r emains of the defeated garrison of Camelot when the E nglish took it?' The country side is full of traditions of Arthur: th e mound at the top of the hill is known as Arthur's palace, and a track stretching out in the direction of Glastonbury as Arth ur's hunting track: the king and his knights rode round the fortifications by n ight, their hor ses shod with silver shoes. A silver shoe h as been found at Cad bury, and a quantity of sling stones brought from the sea. The inner rampart, of stone, is Roman : th ere was also a XIIlth century castle at the top. The area of the * Camden first identified Cad bury with Camelot in 1586. Shakes- peare held the same opinion : in King Lear he says, ' Goose if I had you upon Sarum Plain I'd drive you cackling home to Camelot.' However, Mr. Veri ty th inks this conclusive proof chat Shakespeare identified Camelot with Winchester. Cadbury means H ill of ·war. Camelot probably means the same in Welsh. The name Camel occurs in two places near Cadbury, and in Camelford in Cornwall. Penselwood the other site usually claimed for the Victory of the Hills, is within sight of Cadbury, about ten miles E. From a paper on Cadbury, by Mr. vV. B. Wildmao, read to the S.S.A. S. at Cad bury, October 3rd, 1908. Shirbttmiat>, xxiv, page 411. t Badbury Rings, near Wimborne, has probably the strongest claim to be identified as Mount Badon. Somerset '"''l Dorset N otes a11d Queries, Vol. J. 18 summit is about 20 acres. It is fairly level and defended by a quadruple line of ditch and rampart. The ramparts are not all of the same age: the highest being the latest as is proved by the pottery found by Mr. Bennett. The average height of the hill is 300 feet above the plain: the fortifications are strongest on the east side. Below the earth works are lynchets, which on the south form a steep and definite series of steps. There are two wells, one to the right, the other to the left, of the entrance. NoRTH CADBURY lies two miles nodh of the Hill, on rising ground: here is a ve1·y fine Church built by Lady Elizabeth Botreaux, in 1427, for a college of eight priests. It has a lofty, well proportioned nave, the arcades of which are, with the towe1·, preserved from the older Church: lofty north and south porches, and an aisleless chancel which i£ large at~d stately and has good sedilia. Note the very fine series of carved bench ends (1538), mostly of Dutch workmanship. • Under the tower is the tomb of the founder, and two Renaissance tombs. There are some fragments of old stained glass in the west window. Ne'ar the Church is a fine Jacobean manor house of gables and porches and mullioned windows, curiously cut away at the west end and with an incongruous Georgian front. North Cadbury is about seven miles from Sherborne: about five miles further is CASTLE CARY, which has an interesting Church and the foundation of a Castle: a road runs through WYKE CHAlllPFLOWER {which has a small chapel, 1623, with much heraldry: a good example of the Gothic revival under the Stuarts) to BRUTON, where is a fine XVth century Church and a flourishing school, refounded byEdward VI, the original founda­ tion dating from 1520. Bruton had a Benedictine priory: but nothing remains of this except a three­ storied pigeon house and the Abbey court house in the High Street. The Church has a noble west tower of the Shepton type, with triple windows and a rich parapet: while a second small tower rises over the north porch. The nave is extremely handsome and is covered with a fine roof. In the Chur ch are chained copies of the works of Jewel (1609) and Erasmus * Bond and Cam. Roodscreens and Roodlofts. 19

(1548): and under the tower is a Jacobean screen. Near the School is an old pack-horse bridge, Bruton Bow: in the High Street is Sexey's Hospital, an alms­ house, founded in 1638, by Hugh Sexey, a Bruton stable boy who rose to the post of Auditor in the royal household. Beyond Bruton is Evercreech, noted for the fine tower of its Church: to the N.W, is Glastonbury; north the road runs to Wells, through Doulting, Shepton Mallet and Croscombe, all famous for their churches. Croscombe has a splendid and elaborate XVIIth century Screen. The road N.E. from Shepton Mallet leads to the great modern Benedictine Abbey of Downside, three miles east of which is Chewton Mendip.

CHARLTON HORETHORNE AND WINCANTON. A road to the right at Red Post, two miles from Sherborne, leads to Charlton Horethorne, while a lane to the right through the valley goes to POYNTINGTON, which may also be reached from Ob01·ne. Here is a pleasant little manor house, lately very beautifully restored by Mrs. Ledesma, whose arms are over the door. The house belonged formerly to the Cheneys, and afterwards to Sir Fulk Greville. There w as a severe skirmish here in the Civil War. The house has a fine old gatehouse wing and an ancient oratory. The Church is partly Norman and in it is an effigy of a former lord of the manor. The house which over­ looks the churchyard has windows of bar tracery. CHARLTON HORETHORNE has a fine- Church very much restored, as is usual with churches in these parts. Interesting features are the Dec. canopies in the aisles, the Dec. E. window of the N. aisle and the small bell­ cote on its gable. Probably the north aisle was a chantry belonging to the monks of Kenilworth, to whom the Church belonged. Near the Church is a beautiful Jacobean house with a round stair turret and a fine simple porch. The li'Ianor passed in the XIIIth century to William de Longespee, son of the famous Ela, Countess of Salis­ bury, said to be the only lady who ever held the office of High Sheriff of a County. Her grand-daughter Alice, 20 while at Charlton 'on the Monday before Ascension Day, 1317, was kidnapped by a Knight of the family of John Earl of Warren, and carried off in fight and despite of he1· husband. Her conductors seeing in their pa~sage in the road certain streamers and banners through a hedge thought they belonged to people who were sent to rescue her, but which really belonged to some priests going in procession : they fled and left her all alone ; but when they found their mistake they quickly returned and brought with them a person of very low stature, lame and hunchbacked, called Richard de St. Martin, who challenged for her to wife, and after­ wards, persisting in his insolence, laid claim to the earldoms of Lincoln and Salisbury in her right.'* What happened to the lady is not told, but Richard did not get the earldoms. WINCANTON is a place which has been often des­ troyed by fire, but is still a comely country town on the side of a hill, with a station on the S. & D.J.R. The Church is chiefly modern, and is a sort of double structure : one aisle of the older building was pulled down and a whole church added. The porch contains a mediaeval bas relief. In1553 Wincanton was stricken with plague. 'In the Civil War the Parliamentary gar­ rison used the town as a base of operations against Sherborne. In the Revolution the Prince of Orange had here a brisk but successful skirmish with a squadron of J ames' dragoons. The Prince's lodgings are still pointed out in South Street.'-(The little Guide). • Collinson's History of Somerset. 21

THE MARSTON ROAD.

MARSTON-QUEEN CAJIIEL-WEST CAMEL­ SPARI{FQRD-WESTON BAli1FYLDE. The Marston road runs N.W. from Sherborne. Beyond the first hill a road to the left leads to Trent (page 23). About three miles from Sherborne the road falls precipitately to the Vale of Avalon. From the top of the hill you can look out over the broad beautiful plain, guarded on the South by a great line of hill­ fortresses, that on the extreme East being Cadbury. In front rises Glastonbury Tor, and behind it are the Mendip Hills. The plain is rich, and in summer golden with buttercups, like a cloth of gold. The road runs winding strangely till it comes out by the Church of MARSTON MAGNA. The N. wall of the chancel has herring-bone work and flat Norman buttresses; a little XVth century window lights a vanished rood-screen; and a Chantry Chapel opens from the N. porch, adorned with a defaced niche. Marston has a station on the G.W.R., about half a mile south of the village. Three­ quarters of a mile away is Rimpton, which has a Tudor farm-house close to the Church. The road from Marston runs north to Queen Camel. Before it enters the village a turning to the left leads to West Camel, about a mile away, w•hich may also be ap­ proached by means of a turning just before reaching Marston. WEST CAMEL is a pretty village with an ancient cruciform Church without aisles. The tower and the font are Norman. Near the font is a fragment of the shaft of a IXth century Celtic Cross, intricately carved with strapwork and dragons. Note the roof of the Nave, the decorated Chancel, and the exquisitely diminutive XVth century window in the North transept. Opposite the entrance to the Ch11rch is an old house, refaced, and in its garden is a fine old columbarium. QUEEN CA]IIEL, so called because it was for a long time in the possession of the Queens of England, has 22 one long street, with simple stone cottages on either side. From the bend of the road a flagged path leads between cottages, and at the end of it rises the tower of the Church, in four simple stages, to a height of 90ft. The Church belonged formerly to Cleeve Abbey and has been very carefully restored by Pearson. It consists of an aisled nave with a clerestory and a beautiful chancel, separated from the nave by a very handsome XVth century oak rood-screen, 'majestic in its proportions and in the chaste severity of its detail.' (Bligh Bond). The gallery is gone, but the rail to which it was fixed remains; there is a hook in the apex of the Chancel arch of unknown use. In the chancel are a piscina, doorway and sedilia of the XVth century. The mosaic reredos is by Powell. Note the roof of the chancel and nave, and the small decorated canopy on the N. wall, also the very fine XVth century oak pulpit, and the font of a very uncommon shape, almost exactly like that at Bradford Abbas. By the river is a remarkable spring, 'very cold to touch and offensive to the smell, which is much like that of burnt gun-powder mixed with common water.' The road leads from Queen Camel past the heavy classic gateway of Hazelgrove, through Sparkford and the Cadburys. A turning on the right leads to Weston Bamfylde. The quaint little church at WESTON BAMFYLDE h as a tiny western octagonal tmiTer on a square base. The place takes its name from the Bamfylde family. A member of this family had the experience of being kidnapped as a child, and was brought up by his captors as a huntsman. He was recognised by a servant of his family, who, having with difficulty persuaded him of his identity by means of a mole on his back, brought him to Sir John Sydenham at Brympton, who helped him to regain his estate, and gave him his daughter in marriage. SPARKFORD is a pleasant village, with a sham Gothic Church, which possesses a curious charm. It is reached down a short dark avenue of ancient elms, lighted by a lamp hung over the door. The inside of the Church is decorated in pale blue and white; the little south transept is used as a baptistery and has ST. ANDREW'S C HURCH, TRENT Photo by N.O. V.] [JJy Permission of th e JVes/eJ'H Gn zettc Co. -_....,- ~ -

l'hoto l1y N.O. V.] [By Pcnllissio ll nf the !Vcstt'J'II Cw;dlt' Co. INTF:Il!O il OF THE CHURCH AND THE RJ£CTORY, TRENT 23 curtains and a children's banner, all in blue and white, The east window h as good stained glass. There seems to be a liking in these parts for octagonal buildings, however small. The Post Office is a little octagonal J acobean cottage, with a conical roof, and several of the honses, of all periods, ar e many-sided. Great roads! pass through Sparkford; the sign-post in the village directs one to L ondon, to Exeter and to Dorchester. SANDFORD OR CAst may be reached from Sherborne either by turning to the r ight two miles along the Marston Road, or by. keeping to the valley through the little hamlet of Coombe. Two miles along this road th ere is a hill on the right, known to the School as the Mount of Olives, a bare hill with pines on its summit, '"hich is a conspicuous landmark. Further on, to the left, is another hill w here the turf is as springy, and the view as beautiful as anywhere in the country. A steep hill leads down to the village of Sandford Orcas, where is' a most excellent grey-stone manor house, very tenderly restored. It has a r are gatehouse with chambers over, a porch brave with heraldic carvings and heraldic beasts on gables, and, above all, an old-fashioned garden with a bowling­ green, suggestive of leisured ease, cakes and ale.' In the church is a "\\Tooden screen from Sherborne Abbey, and in the chapel of the Knoyles family a curious painted monument, da ted 1607, to William Knoyle and 'fillip' his wife with her four dead children swaddled like mummies, and his second wife Grace Clavel, with her seven living children. "1-Treves. 318.

TRENT-THE- CO MPTONS- MUDFORD - CHILTON CANTELO-As HINGTON-LIMIN GTON-lLCHESTER -PODIMORE-TINTINHULL- CHILTHO RNE DO MER. A road to the left rather more than two miles from Sherborne along the Marston Road leads to Trent, past the mound known as TRENT BARROW. This is a hill, about 200 ft. long by 90 ft. wide, covered with a dark wood. It is approached through a gate by the 24 path to the left. The inside of the hill is hollowed out -one half-round basin half-filled with stagnant water -and a smaller one at each end on a higher level. There is a path leading down the north slope. TRENT is a straggling, most picturesque village. A worn pathway of flags leads through the rambling street. Its Ch~1rch stands in one of the most beautiful churchyards in the country, where are the shaft and steps of an ancient cross, as well as a chantry house built in the reign of Henry VI. Inside the Church is a fine rood screen and a reading desk made out of a XVth cenhrry pulpit. The present pulpit which is very elaborately carved and the old painted glass in the east window are Belgian work, placed there by a past rector, the Rev. \V. H. Turner, who restored the Church and added the baptistery at the west end. He removed the rood loft and singer's gallery, renovated the chantry chapel, added the plaster decorations of the chancel and the stain glass windows. He also removed the old Tudor font. The bench ends are very fine and in good preservation, though of rather crude workmanship. The arch leading to the chantry chapel is painted with a genealogical tree. Close to it is the monu­ ment of Sir Francis Wyndham. In this chapel hang helmets and gauntlets, which were probably silvered over and carried in the funeral procession of Sir Francis. Under the recessed arches in the north wall are ancient effigies, the west one represents Sir Roger Wyke, first husband of Joan Castelyn; it dates from the time of Henry IV. The east effigy is the more interesting of the two : some suppose it to represent a female crusader probably of the order of the Knights of 1\'Ialta. Sandys states that women were admitted to the order by a statute of Hugh Revelus, Grandmaster in 1260. The builder of the Hospital of St. John at Jerusalem, the first seat of the Knights o{ Malta, was a Gerard, a branch of which family was settled in Trent. The chantry chapel, though probably originally a Lady Chapel, was set apart for the obit of John Frank and en­ dowed by Oriel College. The tower has a fine peal of bells, three of which are of pre-Reformation 25

date. The feature of the outside of the Church is the stately Early Decm'ated tower ; the fine parapet and the spire are XVth century. It has lately been restored. The shaft and steps of the cross in the churchyard have been removed from the cross roads, where they showed the way to Glastonbury; they now form the covering of a vault. It was at the manor house at Trent, then in the possession of Colonel Wyndham, that Charles 11 lay concealed for more than a fortnight after the battle of Worcester. The battle was fought on September 3rd, 1651. On September 17th the King reached Trent, attended by Jane Lane- -whose servant he pretended to be-and Cornet Henry Lassels. Colonel Wyndham is buried in Trent Church. The slab which marks his grave tells that he died on July 8th, 1676. On the same stone is carved :- Dm A.W OBt JUL 19 ANoDm 1698 Dame Alice \'Xfyndham obiit, July 19th, A.D. 1698. The manor house at Trent stands neat· the Church. The building has been much modernised, but the King's hiding place and the rooms he occupied have been carefully preserved. Lady Anne Wyndham's room is beautifully panelled with black oak, has massive ceiling beams, quaint window recesses and secret cupboards for hiding valuables. The King's hiding place is in a small projecting wing, and is over an ancient brew­ house, which has been allowed to remain unchanged. The entrance to the very narrow celJ.. is through a triangular opening, which is really at the base of a blocked-up stone doorway. From Trent one road goes through Mudford to Ilchester; another through Nether Compton to Yeovil. This later road avoids Babylon hill. NETHER COMPTON is a beautiful village in a valley. The Church of Nether Compton has been much restored, but contains a fragment of an old rood screen. In a park is Compton House, the stately Elizabethan mansion, the home of the Gooddens, with the little Church of Over Compton. 26 The other road which leads to Ilchester, passes first through Mudford, and then ASHINGTON, the Church of which has a large bellcote on the western gable. Near this is CHILTON CANTELO. The Church, has been rebuilt and has a good tower. In the Church are four piscinas. Notice the screen and font. LIMINGTON, which is about a mile from Ilchester, was the first living held by Car<:{inal Wolsey. ILCHESTER was in Roman times and after a town of greatimportance; the British name Cair Pensavetcoit, • the city at the head of the river's mouth in the wood,' became in Greek taXctAt(; under which name the town is mentioned by Ptolemy as the first town ofthe Belgae. It is situated on the Yeo, the Roman Velox, and at the meeting of two Roman roads, the Fosse way, from the south through Ilminster and Ilchester to Bath and so to Lincoln, and the road from Dorchester through Ilchesoter to Glastonbury. The Fosse way was paved where it passed through the town. Remains of Roman walls and pavements have been found here, and coins of Antoninus Pius. In 1088 Ilchester withstood the seige of Geoffrey Bishop of Coutances, who in support of Robert of Normandy had seized Bristol and burnt Bath. It became the chief town in the county : sent burgesses to the Parliaments of Edward I and II. This privilege was taken away by Edward III, but restored by James I. Until the Reform Bill Ilchester was the only polling place in the county. Roger Bacon was born here in 1214,. The town was once represented in Parliament by Sheridan. _ The town now has lost'its importance : only one of the six churches is still existing. It is a much restored Early English building with an octagonal tower, partly of Roman masonry. Near the jail are the ruins of an old Hospital converted into the nunnery of Whitehall by the Priorissa de Blanchsale. About 1335 it became a free chapel. Between Ilchester and Yeovil on the Roman road is CHILTHORNE DOl'IER, which has in its Decorated Church a recumbent effigy of Sir William Dummer in chain armour. East of Chilthorne is TINTINHULL, pronounced Tingle. The Church is a small aisleless Early English 27 building of much interest. Note the bench ends (1851), the ribbed roof of the porch, the double piscina, the XIVth century tiles and the old brasses. In the village are the ancient stocks. Near Tintinhull was unearthed a fossilized icthyosaurus twenty-two feet long. 28

THE YEOVIL ROAD.

The Yeovil road passes almost due west from Sherborne over undulating country with fine views. At the crest of the first large hill is on the right a small square chapel with shuttered windows, in which Wesley preached when on his tour in this part. Further on is the long Babylon Hill, sloping dow n to Pen Mill Station. Here took place one of the earliest actions in the Civil War. YEOVIL, a small town on the Yeo in South Somerset, about five and a half miles from Sherborne, is situated on the eastern boundary line of Somerset. It is at present a thriving market town, a municipal borough (incorporated in 1853) , the centre of about forty parishes, a P etty Sessional Division and a County Court District. The town of Yeovil has about three good streets, in the shape of a cross, the first and chief of which is Middle Street. Now let us describe Yeovil as seen on one's entry. First, we enter Middle Street from the Station Road, by taking the first turning on the left, the road on our right leading up to P en Mill. Continuing straight on we pass most of the principal shops in the town, till we come to two very fine old inns, the 'George' first, then the 'Castle,' the latter of which was formerly a chantry. Passing these the Borough comes into sight. To the right of the Borough there is a little lane which leads to the magnificent XVth century Parish Church, the chief pride of Yeovil, whilst to the left a small street, Wine Street, will lead us to Holy Trinity Church, a small but pretty Church. Passing on again we come to the Town Hall erected in 1849. Now we approach the head of the street, where two roads cutting it at right angles complete the shape of a cross. Let us now turn to the right and make our way up Princess Street; on the left stands the Congregational Chapel, a fine building of Ham Hill stone erected in 1878. A little further on is the park, delightfully situated on the top of the hill. Beyond this we are in the suburb of Kingston. The other suburbs of Yeovil are Huish, Higher Kingston, and Hendford. 29

CHURCHES.-Yeovil is a town of many sects and religious bodies, and consequently has many Churches and Chapels, first among which of course is the P arish Church of St. John the Baptist. It is indeed a magnifi­ cent Church, early Perpendicular in style, and dates from 1376; the crypt, which is late early English, dates from about 1226. It has a fine western tower about 90 feet high. The whole Chnrch is built with the local limestone finished with Ham Hill stone, and comprises the tower, chancel, a wide nave of seven bays, aisles, transepts, so nth porch, and organ chamber. The aisles are the full h eight of the nave and choir, which quite makes up for the lack of a clerestory. The roof is formed by a series of trussed ribbed rafters; the crypt is vaulted from a central pier and the entrance leading to it has very fine rich vaulting. It has also a beautiful Perpendicular font and an ancient brass lectern given by one Martin Forester, a monk who floul'ished about the middle of the XVth century. Next we come to Holy Trinity Church in Peter Street, a fine stone building in the Early English style with chancel, nave, aisles, transepts, and a good iron screen, erected in 1897, and a carved oak reredos with panels representing the Crucifixion and the Evangelists. The Church of St. Michael and All Angels, erected in 1897 for Pen Mill parish , is a large handsome building in Perpendicular style. The east window is fitted with a very fine stained glass window. The Roman Catholic Church dedicated to the Holy Ghost is Early English in style, begun in 1894 and finished in 1899. It has a nave with a fine apsidal sanctuary, aisle with lady chapel, sacristy with organ loft above, and a turret about seventy feet high. The Xlllth century crucifix outside the Church used to stand in the churchyard of the Parish Chnrch till about the XVIth century. It was re-erected here in 1900. The Baptist Chapel in Sonth Street was built in 1829, bnt its history goes back to 1688, when services were h eld in a barn, on the site of the present Chapel; this barn was purchased by the first pastor, the Rev. John Millet·, who obtained full permission to preach there and had a Chapel built at his own expense. 30

PLACES TO SOUTH OF YEOVIL. EAST COKER is a small village about three miles to the south of Y eovil. The best way to get at it is by going up Hendford Hill, and taking the first turning on the left at the top of the hill, and a few hundred yards further the first turning to the right; this leads st1·aight through North Coker to East Coker. Many Roman remains have been found here: in 1753 the floor of a Roman sudatory, or sweating house, a kind of a Turkish bath, was unearthed. The Chm·ch at East Coker is a Perpendicular stone building prettily situated on the top of a hill. It has a list of vicars dating from 1200. Coke1· Court stands quite close to the Churcl1, and is mainly a Tudor building. Naish Priory at Coker is a very interesting building, contain­ ing a chapel with a fine east w indow, refect01·y, and dormitory. W EST COKER is almost in the same direction, only instead of taking the turning at the top of H eudford Hill, keep straight on, and at the first important turniug to the left a sign post shows the way to West Coker. This village is chiefly remarkable for its Church, which is a fine example of a Dec. and Perpendicular Church; it has the usual w estern tower with pinnacles, chancel with side aisle, a nave with four bays, aisle and south porch. It will amply repay a visit. BARWICK is a pretty little village about th1·ee miles outside Yeovil. It makes a beautiful walk to go through Barwick Park past Barwick House and thus reach the village : by road we must take the first turn on the left at the top of Hendford Hill, from which the road leads down into the village. It is only about three­ quarters of a mile fl·om Yeovil Junction. It has an old Church, Perpendicular in style. The oak-panelled ceiling of the north aisle and the carved oak benches dated 1533 are especially worthy of note. A few years ago when the Church was restored a hagioscope, stone steps, and rood loft were discovered. About a mile or two along the same road further south we come to SUTTON BINGHAI'I with an aucient Church dating from the earlier half of the XUtlt century. It has a late Norman arch with dog-tooth moulding 31

and a piscina. Some old wall paintings representing the coronation of the Virgin a1·e of special interest. The road from here to Stoford affords a very pleasant walk.

THE ILMINSTER ROAD. PRESTON- MONTACUTE-STOKE-MARTOCK­ SOUTH P ETHERTON- NORTON -BRYMPTON- 0DCOJI!BE-CH!SELBOROUGH. The Ilminster Road passes through Kingston, to the left of the hospital. At PHESTON PLUCKNETT the first place reached, is an exquisite old house and tithe barn, said to have belonged to the Abbey of Bermondsey. It has a beautiful Gothic porch and an octagonal chimney. Further on the road b1·anches to the left to Brympton, to the right to MONT ACUTE. The Monsacutus was the fortress of Drogo de Montaqu, who called it after his own name in Normandy. The castle was succeeded by a chanl!·y which is now replaced by a watch tower. The road passes the eastern gates of Montacute House and then cu1·ves round into the village. The Church has a very fine tower, porch and gateway, also beautiful altar tombs of the Phelips family. One of the brackets beneath the organ is Norman, and the texts painted round the reredos and the commandments painted on tablets date from 1543. Near the Church is the XVth century gateway of a Cluniac prio1·y founded in the time of Henry I. In the village is a picturesque house now used as a Post Office, on the front of which are the letters R.S. (Robert Sherbo1·ne) between two fools' h eads. Next to it is the entrance to Montacute House, for more than 600 years the residence of the Phelips family. The house was built between 1580 and 1601. It is not shown to visitors, but the west front can be seen from the road. The house is a magnificent example of the late Tudor architectLtre in England. The general plan of the house is the common one of a central block with wings projecting on both sides forming an H : on the western front the two wings have been joined by a screen brought from Clifton Maybank when that house 32 was dismantled in the XVIIIth century. The east front looks out on the gardens. Between the windows of the top storey are niches containing statues of the nine worthies, Moses, Joshua, Judas Maccabaeus, Caesar, Pompey , Alexander the Great, Charlemagne, and King Arthur. On the north and east of the house is a spacious formal garden, and in the centre of each side there is a curious temple of stone. At the top of the house is the famous gallery, the longest in England. It runs the whole length of the building, with semi­ circular oriels a t each end. Its furniture was destroyed when the house was sacked during the Civil War. The principal entrances of the house bear very friendly inscriptions. The east door bears the words : ' Through this w ide opening gate None come too early, none r e tnrn too late,' and over the principal entrance is carved 'And your's my friends.' A lane leads up behind the Priory past Primmse Hill to Ham Hill, a great Roman fortress, the ramparts of which are three- miles in circnmference. They are pre-Roman. The hollow at the northern end was probably a Roman amphitheatre. Most valnable re­ mains of Celtic and Roman work have been found here, and are now in the Ta unton Museum. The hill is chiefly used for the quarrying of a very good building s tone. The view from the summit is magnificent. At the foot of the hill near Stoke the Fo~se Way runs north-east to llchester. The road from Montacute goes on through STOKE­ SUB-HAMPDON, a long stone village, inhabited by quarry men and glove-makers. It has a very interesting Church of many periods. Over the door is a Norman carving representing a Sagittarius, the sign of King Stephen, shooting with a bow at a lion, and above is an Agnus Dei. A small Norman window in the wall of the nave has a carving of St. Michael slaying the dragon. The late Norman chancel arch and the Transi­ tional tower, which is vaulted inside, a re very fine. Note the very fine piscinas and the tombs : also tile Lowside window in the chancel. ln the churchyard has been erected on a new shaft, the canopied head of the 'lncient cross.

33

On the Martock road in West Stoke are the remains of the old mansion of the Beauchamps, and the Chantry House was built under Edward I and fortified under Edward Ill. Nothing remains but the Tudor gateway and hall of the Chantry House. MARTOCK-a pleasant little town- is now chiefly occupied in the making of gloves and jute matting. Near the Jacobean gate (1627) of the Churchyard is an old almshouse, and next to it a small but very beautiful simple classic house. The feature of the Church is its noble nave, which has an elaborate pierced battlement, large windows and a lofty north porch. The chancel is Early English. At the west end of the Churchyard is an old barn, said to have been used as a Church by an expelled non-juring vicar. Inside, the nave is lofty, rich and spacious, with an elaborately carved oak roof. The large clerestory windows are separated by niches containing paintings of the apostles. Near the east end of the Church and approached through an old arch, is a XIVth century manor house with an interesting hall. In the town is a market cross, consisting of a sundial and ball surmounting a Tuscan column. The garden at the west end of the Churchyard is the site of the mansion of the Fiennes and Montacutes, and later of Lord Morley Mouteagle, to whom the manor of 'Montacute was granted as a reward for discovering Gunpowder Plot. The road through Stoke-sub-Hampdon leads to NORTON. The Church has a lofty tower, rebuilt after being destroyed by lightning in 1894, and in the Churchyard is a quite perfect cohtmbarium SLtpported by buttresses. Beyond Norton is SOUTH PETHERTON, which has a fine Church "tiTith a lofty octagonal west tower ; also a XIVth century manor house. It is possible to return to Yeovil over Ham Hill through CHISELBOROUGH (the Church of which has a lofty central tower and spire over low arches) and 0DCOMBE. Further on an avenue to the left leads to BRYMPTON D'EVERCY, one of the most beautiful of manor houses. Its Tudor front glows with roses. The great windows look out upon a lawn shut in by a fine balustrade. On the left is a lofty summerhouse half hidden in trees : 34 on the right a XVth century building, either a Chantry or the original manor house, with a vaulted octagonal staircase. Beside this is the Church, a little cruciform building with a large bellcote on its western gable. Inside, the Church is full of richly and quaintly carved tombs of the Sydenhams : and there is a rood screen, with a ledge or seat of unknown use aloag the western side of it. The south front was built in the XVIIIth century. It is of great simplicity and grace. In front of it is a terrace with flights of steps at each end, looking over a sloping lawn to a lake. 35

BRADFORD ABBAS ROAD.

THORNFORD-BRADFORD ABBAS-YETMINSTER­ LEIGH. THORNFORD lies on the Bradford Abbas road, abottt three miles from Sherborne. The Church was built about the end of the XIVth century and is a good example of the early P erpendicular period of archi­ tecture. The first Rector of whom any record has survived was a Nicholas Caproue, who held a brief tenure of the position from 1.405 to 1408. The Church was restored and enlarged by the addition of a north aisle under Rector R. H. Wingfield Digby in 1864. Indifference to the past lost and obscured not a few features of the original building. Weird gargoyles, stone pillars, and a portion of a font of very early date have found resting place in the Rectory Garden. The new aisle absorbed a small transe pt, which may have been built as a chantry chapel, but of which the only part now left is the east wall, and window flanked by two canopied niches, d evoid of figures. The architecture of the Church presents several features which are characteristic of this part of the country, but which are not common elsewhere. Among these ar e the stone chancel screen , coeval with the building, perforated stone work which takes the place of louvres in the belfry w:indows, the multiplicity of dedication crosses carved upon sills, doorways and walls, and panelling on the under side of arches. The square towar forty-four feet in h eight is plain, but massive. The quaint doggerel of an epitaph to Mary H aukins, wife of John H ankius, gentleman, who died in 1702, aged 33, may be noticed on a stone affixed inside the tower. It would be difficult to find a village w hich more repays a visit than BRADFORD ABBAS, a quaint old village five miles west of Sherborne. It has but one straggling street. The Church is a beautiful structure in the Perpendicular style and has been restored with great care. The tower has four divisions. Its west 36 front contains eleven canopied niches, only two of which contain statues. The roof is panelled and was restored in 1890. On either side the ends of the beams are supported by images of angels bearing shields. There is a fine stone screen separating the nave from the chancel. The two squints on either side have lately been filled up. The east end has been restored quite recently. The pulpit, dated 1670, is very finely carved, and the handsome pew-ends deserve especial notice. The priest's porch is remarkable in that its small stone roof has the Tudor Rose carved upon it. There is a mutilated trivial cross in the churchyard, with two figmes (the Virgin and Christ) carved upon it. It will be noticed that the buttresses near the east end on the north side are deeply notched. These notches were made by the vi11age boys who used to play fives against the wall and frequently sent their balls onto the roof. A fine mediaeval stone barn, and Wyke Farm, a moated house which once belonged to the Abbots of Sherborne, are near the village. The quarry near by is famous for its fossils. The Church at YETMINSTER is a fine Perpendicular building of the XVth cenhtry, except for the chancel. There are many old oak benches with their ends capped with Tudor roses. The beams are decorated and coloured. Only parts of the base of the oak screen, which at one time divided the chancel from the nave, remain now. The tower is a very fine one, and commands a splendid view of the downs from Dogberry to Bubb Dow n. There is a chime of five bells which , every third haul', plays as mttch of the National Anthem as is possible. The effect is pleasing, though startling. LEIGH is a small but pretty village. The Church is in the late Perpendicular style, and was restored in 1854. Note especially the fine oak roof. There are remains in the village of two old crosses. BRADFORD ABBAS CHURCH (FROM N.W.) 37

A NOTE ON THE PLACE-NAMES.

We give here the names of most of the places re­ ferred to in this Guide with their Domesday equivalents, where they are mentioned in that record. D= Domesday, and H = Hutchins's Dorset. DORSET. Beer or Bere Hackett : not mentioned in D. Hackett is added to distinguish this place from other Beres. H . says Hackett owned th.e Manor here in the time of Henry I. Bere is old English for barley. Bradford Abbas : D. Bradeford, i.e. broad ford. Abbas refers to the fact that Bradford was a Manor of the Abbot and Convent of Sherborne; it is a common place-name. Buckland Newton: D. Bockeland. The Manor was 'booked' or given by charter to the Abbey of Glastonbury. Caundle, Bishop, Purse and Marsh : D. Candele, Can­ delle, Candel. Candel is the name of two brooks, one of which flows from Caundle Marsh to Bishop's Canndle; the other brook flows by Caundle Purse. Their sources are separated by a ridge which is here the backbone of the west. The meaning of both Caundle and Purse is obscure. Cerne Abbas : D. Cerneli. The Manor belonged to the Abbot of Cerne. Cerne seems to be connected with water ; it is the same as Char. Comptou, Over and Nether : D. Contone, i.e. the tun in the combe. Dorchester : D. Dorecastre. Dore is the same as the first syllable in Dorset. No one knows its mean­ ing. Dwr in Welsh means water. Fifehead Magdalen : D. Fifhide, a Manor of 5 hides, which was probably the unit of assessment to the Danegeld. Magdalen refers to the dedication of the Church. Fifehead Neville: D. Fifhide. See above. The Neville Lords of the Manor were subsequent to Domesday. 38

Gillingham: D. Gelingeham, Gelingham. Geling is supposed to be a patronymic. Hazelbm·y Bryan: not mentioned in D.; it is evidently surveyed under D. Poleham, i.e. Pulham the name of the next parish. Holwell : not mentioned in D. Though well in Dorset it used to be counted as part of Somerset; the reason for this is unknown. An old spelling is Holewale. Leigh is according to H . not the Lege of the Dorset Domesday. It means meadow. Longburton: not mentioned in D. Burton is a common place-name, often spelt Bourton. It means a settlement of Boors. Melcomb Bingham: D. Melcome. The ' combe ' is clear enough; what 'Mel ' means is not; the same sound appears in Melplash, Melbury and perhaps in Milborne. H. says the Manor came into the Bing­ ham family in the reign of Edward I; it passed away from that family only a few years ago. Milton Abbey: D. Midelhme; it is said to be so called because it is in the middle of Dorset ! Oborne: D. Wocborne; in later times it is spelt W oborne. Is W oc oak ? Would a stream be called Oakstream? Poyntington: D. Ponditona; this village was till quite lately in Somerset. Note that the Clerks, who wrote the entries in Somerset D., nsually gave their place-names a Latin ending in a, while those, who wrote the Dorset record, did not. Piddletrenthide: D. Pidrie. The Pidrie, Pidre or Pidel is the stream, by which the village stands. The Manor consisted of 30 hides in D., but the affix trenthide is later than D. The affix was needed to distinguish this village from others along the stream. Ryme Intrinseca: not mentioned in D. Note 'intrinseca' ; the names of places in mediaeval Latin are usually feminine: e.g. Ryma. Some genius evidently thought that 'intrinsecus' was an adjective, and therefore made it 'intrinseca ' to agree with Ryma. Ryme was so called, because the Manor had an outlyer (extrinsecus) near Kingston Russell in south-west Dorset. 39

Rimpton: D. Rintona, formerly in Somerset, hence the Latin ending as in Poyntiugton (Ponditona). Have Ryme and Rimpton a syllable in common? The old English 'rim ' means an edge. Sherborne: D . Scireburne, called by the 'Monks Fons Limpidzzs. Sandford Oreas: D . Sanforda, formerly in Somerset. Sandford is a common place-name, hence Orcas for distinction: it refers to the Orescnilz family, who became possessed o£ the Manor in the time of Henry I, i.e. subsequent to D. Shillingstone : D. Alford, Ackford. The clerk who entered this record found it difficult to catch the right sound. It is Oaklord; the Domesday tenant was called Schelin or Eschelin; and so the name was in later times Shilling Okeford, and then Shillingstone. Compare Child Ockford in the same neighbourhood. Stalbridge: D. Staplebrige (bridge). The entry about Stalbridge is the only one in Domesday, in which mention is made of any of the Conqueror's sons. William the Red is noted as having seized the Manor from the Bishop and the Monks of Sherborne. Shaftesbury: D. Sceptesberie. It is often called Shaston; tl1e W elsh n ame is said to have been Caer Palladur. (H.) Sturminster Newton: D. Newentone. Sturminster is the little town on the left bank of the Stour, Newton the suburb on the right. It is sometimes called Newton Castle because of the old earth­ works there. Wraxhall : D. Brochesale. This name was evidently too difficult for the clerk to get hold of properly. Wo0tton Glanville: D . Widetoue. The clerk m ak es a better shot at W ootton Fitzpaine which he enters as Wodetone (D.) ; called Wootton because it is in White Hart Forest, cf. North Wootton. The Glan­ villes held the Manor in the reign of Henry Ill (H). The Domesday tenant was the ancestor of Robert Bruce, William de Braose. Y etminster: D. Etiminstre. The syllable 'Yet ' has nothing to do with a gate; it is probably for Geata, the founder of the Church. 40

SOMERSET. Babcary: Babecari, Babakary. Cary is the name of tl1e stream on which fue village stands; se vera! neighbouring villages have the same affix. Bruton : D. Briwetona. Bru refers to the river Brue, on which the town stands. Brympton d 'Evercy : D. Brunetona. The D'Evercy family is subsequent to Domesday. Cad bury, North and South : D. Cadeberia, Cadeburia. Castle Cary : D. Cari, cf. Babcary. Castle refers to the eartl1works. Charlton Horethorne : D. Ceorlatona, Cerletone. Charlton is of course Churlton, cf. Bm·ton. Hore­ thorne means the Graythorne, some famous old tree or bush, which was perhaps sacred. Charlton, in the north Carlton, is a common place-name. Chilthorne Domer : D. Cilterna, Citerna. For Domer, cf. Pendomer; the Domer family were subsequent to Domesday. Carton Denham : D. Corfetona. Corfe is the same word as Curve, and occurs several times as a place­ name in Somerset and Dorset. The allusion here is to the gap or cutting between Sutton Mantis and Carton Beacon. The Denhams were unknown at Carton in Domesday time. Crewkerne : D. Crucha. Cruch is our word crook, creak, crick, which means a twist; cerne means water , i.e. 'twisting brook.' Evercreech : D. Evercriz. Criz is probably the same as Crewk, and refers to the twisting valley which leads down towards Wells. Ever may be for Eofer old English for wild boar, i.e. the twisting valley of the wild boar. Glastonbury: D. Glastingeberia. This should mean fue stronghold of the Glastings. Henstridge : D. Hesterige, Hengesterich. Evidently it means the ridge of Hengest. llchester : D. Givelcestre. Give! is the old name of the river Yea. Ilminster: D. Ilemonstre, i.e. the Church on the lle, now spelt Isle, fue name of the stream, cf. Isle Abbots, Isle Brewers. 41

Langport: D. Lamporta, i.e. the Long Market-town, cf. Port in Milborne Port : it is the Latin porta, not portus. Milborne Port : D. Meleburna. The part Mele is probably the same as Melbury, Melplash ; for port cf. Langport. Marston Magna : D. Merstona. Marston is a common place-name and means Marshton. Montacute : D. Bisobstona, ibi castrum comitis quod uocalur Montagut. It had evidently belonged to some Bishop ; the older English name was Lodgars­ bury, cf. Ludgershall. The comes alluded to is William the Conqueror's half-brother, Count Robert of Mortain. Norton- under- Ham: D. Nortona. Norton is a common place-name and means Northton, cf. Sutton, Easton, W eston. Ham is of cOLu·se Ham Hill. Podimore Milton: D. Middeltona; called Podimore after the moor in which it lay. Milton is a common place-name and needs an affix. Preston Plucknett: D. Prestetona, i.e. Priest's town. The Plucknetts were subsequent to D. Preston is a common place-name. Pendomer: D. Penna; Welsh for a hill. For Domer, cf. Chilthorne. P etherton, North and South: D. Peretona, i.e. the town on the Parrett. Shepton Mallet: D. Sepetona, perhaps Sheep town. Robert Malet held Shepton and Curry Mallet in Henry I's time. Somerton: D. Somertona-perhaps the ancient capital of Somerset. Sparkford: D. Sparkeforda. What does it mean? Sutton Montis: D. Sutuna, i.e. South town. The ' mons ' is plain enough to all, who have been there. Sutton Bingham: D. Sutona. This is the same family as that of Melcomb. Stoke-under-Ham: D. Estocha, Stoche. Stoke is a very common place-name and means ' place.' Weston Bamfylde: D. Westona. The Bamfyldes are subsequent to D. 42

Yeovil: D. Give] a, lvla, Ivle; cf. Ilchester. Give!, I vel, &c., simply means the river Yeo, cf.Yeovilton, in D. Geveltona. Some ingenious modern Yeovil­ lains advertize a cheese, to which they give the comforting epithet 'lactic ' ; they have dedicated this cheese to a Saint I vel. He must be a 'latter­ day Saint.'

Once more it is worth noting that the Somerset clerks of Domesday generally latinize their place­ names, while those of Dorset do not. They all, or nearly all, appear to have been Italians, probably imported by Lanfranc- this throws some light on the English ability to write in 1086. These foreigners found it often difficult to -write do-wn certain sounds, which they heard from rustic lips. Place-names beginning with W sometimes puzzled them. They rarely used the letter K, and, in order to make the C hard before I and E, they inserted an H, e.g. Stoke becomes Stoche, Kingstone becomes Chingestone, Knowlton becomes Chenolton. The name Creech, which occurs several times both in Dorset and Somerset, was written Criz, Crist and Cric. A word beginning with ST or SCH was also difficult, e.g., Estoche for Stoke, Eschelin for Schelin. It should be noted that the place-names are regularly English, except where combes, rivers or hills comes in; in these cases we find often Welsh words. TON is by far the commonest ending for a place-name in Do1·set and Somerset. It is the old English 'tun ' an enclosure: a group of farm­ buildings in Scotland is still often called a ' toun,' pronounced 'toon,' which is exactly the right old English sound of tun. Some time ago I made a collection of Dorset place­ names from ancient sources, chiefly from Domesday. I found 112 names ending in TON, 29 ending in FORD, 27 ending in COMB, 25 ending in BURY, 20 ending in HAM, 14ending in DON or DUN, 14 ending in MORE, 13 ending in STOCK, 12 ending in WELL, 10 ending in BORNE, 10 ending in WORTH, 9 ending in LAND, 7 ending in WOOD, 7 ending in RIDGE, 6 ending in BARROW or BOROUGH, 5 ending in MINSTER, 4 ending in CHURCH. This list is of course anything 43 but complete, yet I think it is representative. The result is in several ways curious, e.g. in Hants STEAD is a common ending for a place-name; in Dorset, which is a kindred Wessex county, there is only one such place, viz. : Ringstead near Weymouth. It will interest some to know, that out of the 2277 Dorset hides, according to F. W. Maitland's counting, I have found that no less than 1290 manifestly come within the 5 hide unit theory. I must apologize to the General Reader for the length of this note; I think the student of local and county history will not find it dull. W.B.W. INDEX.

SHERBORNE DORCHESTER ROAD 3 (Lillington- Holnest-Minterne-Cerne Abbas - Charminster-Dorchester-W cotton Glan­ v ille-Pulham- Buckland Newton-Piddle­ trenthide) MILTON ABBAS ROAD... 9 (Holwell-Hazelbnry Bryan-Bnll Barrow­ Milton Abbas-Hilton-Bingham's Melcomb)

SALISBURY ROAD 12 (Oborne- Milborne Port-Purse Caundle­ Templecombe - Buckhorn Weston- East Stour - Shaftesbnry- Hensh·idge - Stal­ bridge-Stunninster Newton) BRISTOL ROAD 16 (Cad bury, North and Sonth- Compton Pannce­ foot-Sutton Mentis- Castle Cary- Bruton) MARSTON ROAD 21 (Marston - Queen Camel- West Camel­ Sparkford- Weston Bamfylde) (Trent - The Comptons- Mudford- Chilton Cantelo- Ashington-Limington-Ilchester -Podimore-Tintiuhull- ChilthorneDomer) YEOVIL ROAD 2 8

PLACES TO SOUTH OF YEOVIL. .. 30

ILMINSTER ROAD 31 (Preston- Montacute--Stoke- Martock-South Petherton-Nm·ton-Brym pton-Odcombe­ Chiselborough) BRADFORD ABBAS ROAD 35 (Thornford- Bradford Abbas-Yetminster­ Leigh) A NOTE ON THE PLACE-NAMES 37