Jammu & Kashmir

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Jammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh)

Includes  Why Go? Ladakh...... 228 The state of Jammu & Kashmir (J&K) brings together three Leh ...... 229 incredibly different worlds. Hindu Jammu and Katra, in Nubra Valley. . . . 250 the south, are the state’s rail hubs and a major draw for Pangong Tso. . . . 253 domestic pilgrims. Muslim Kashmir is India’s Switzerland, attracting hordes of local tourists seeking cool summer air, Tso Moriri Loop. . . 254 alpine scenery and Srinagar’s romantic houseboat accom- Kargil ...... 260 modation. And then there’s the Himalayan land of Ladakh, Zanskar ...... 263 which for most foreigners is J&K’s greatest attraction. Its The Kashmir Valley. . 266 disarmingly friendly, ethno-linguistically Tibetan people are Srinagar...... 267 predominantly Buddhist; their timeless monasteries are set between arid canyons and soaring peaks, while emerald- Jammu...... 278 green villages nestle photogenically in highland deserts. Kashmir is politically volatile, with July and August of- ten the ‘season’ for shutdowns, demonstrations and cur- fews. Indeed, arguments over Kashmir’s status caused Best Places to Eat three 20th-century wars. Ladakh is altogether different, a ¨¨Alchi Kitchen (p257) calm place where your main concern will be high-altitude ¨¨Bon Appetit (p240) acclimatisation. ¨¨Food Planet (p239) ¨¨Falak (p280) When to Go ¨¨Café Cloud (p247) Leh °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 32/800

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Jammu & Kashmir& Kashmir (including (including 226