Jammu & Kashmir
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Jammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh) Includes ¨ Why Go? Ladakh ............ 228 The state of Jammu & Kashmir (J&K) brings together three Leh ............... 229 incredibly different worlds. Hindu Jammu and Katra, in Nubra Valley ....... 250 the south, are the state’s rail hubs and a major draw for Pangong Tso ....... 253 domestic pilgrims. Muslim Kashmir is India’s Switzerland, attracting hordes of local tourists seeking cool summer air, Tso Moriri Loop ..... 254 alpine scenery and Srinagar’s romantic houseboat accom- Kargil ............. 260 modation. And then there’s the Himalayan land of Ladakh, Zanskar ........... 263 which for most foreigners is J&K’s greatest attraction. Its The Kashmir Valley ...266 disarmingly friendly, ethno-linguistically Tibetan people are Srinagar ............267 predominantly Buddhist; their timeless monasteries are set between arid canyons and soaring peaks, while emerald- Jammu .............278 green villages nestle photogenically in highland deserts. Kashmir is politically volatile, with July and August of- ten the ‘season’ for shutdowns, demonstrations and cur- fews. Indeed, arguments over Kashmir’s status caused Best Places to Eat three 20th-century wars. Ladakh is altogether different, a ¨ Alchi Kitchen (p257) calm place where your main concern will be high-altitude ¨ Bon Appetit (p240) acclimatisation. ¨ Food Planet (p239) ¨ Falak (p280) When to Go ¨ Café Cloud (p247) Leh °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 32/800 24/600 Best Places 20/68 to Sleep 16/400 0/32 ¨ Stok Palace Heritage Hotel 8/200 (p244) ¨ -20/-4 0 Srinagar Houseboats J FDM A M J J A S O N (p270) ¨ Nimmu House (p256) Apr–Jun Kashmir Jul–Aug Perfect Dec–Mar Ski is in full bloom but for Ladakh; rain season at Gul- ¨ Khyber Himalayan Resort overloaded with drenches Jammu. marg. Ladakh has & Spa (p276) domestic tourists. Pilgrims flood to festivals but no ¨ Hidden North Guest House Prices peak. Amarnath. road access or (p255) tourists. 226 #\ Kargil #] #\ Apati 0¸NH1 ey er Lake ll v Drass a i #\ Bandipur Gangabal V R #\ #\ u Shargol r Fokar #\ Muzaffarabad u ru Sapi #\ #\ #\ Wular #\ Sangam S u #\ (Pakistan, 75km); Lake Naranag #\ S Mulbekh Khartse (Crossing not open Sonamarg Zoji La Thajiwas c (3529m) Wakha Ú# to foreigners) Kangan #\ #\ Khar D # Sanku #\ J #\ 4Glac4ier 4 Barsoo h #\ R e R #\ l # Bartal Camp Bartoo #\ iv u Kolahoi Kolahoi Lago La e m Anchar #Þ Baramulla r Lake (5425m) Glacier Amarnath Damsna #\ (3900m) Rungo Dal Cave R (5930m) Lake #\ Dac4higam 44 Panikhar #\ #\ Aru c#\ Rangdum –# #3 Srinagar #\ #\ Chandanwari Tangole #\ Parkachik #\ #å Tangmarg Pampore #\ Shafat £# #\ Parkachik Gulmarg Pahalgam Glacier R Kun Nowgam Jh Awantipora r Glacier e e 444 (7087m) lu v R m (Avantipura) i Warwan Valley #\ R R Nun (7135m) i r Char-i-Sharif#\ v #\ c e 0¸NH44 #\ Inshun Pensi La r dde Aishmuqam G (4401m) Yusmarg #\ K #\ i 4r 444 a e s Sangam L a h t H m i Darung Pir Pa i #\ #\ m njal R r Khanabal #\ Mattan (Martand) a Drung an V la Glacier ge a ya l Anantnag l R e a 44 y ng KASHMIR Qazigund Daksum e #\ Banihal Rail Tunnel #\w #\ ö# Sinthan Top Titanic viewpoint ö# #\ Kokernag w 4ZAN4SKAR JAMMU & KASHMIR (INCLUDING (INCLUDING KASHMIR KASHMIR (INCLUDING & & JAMMU Jawarhar Tunnel Verinag #\ Banihal Chatru #\ C Katra-Banihal railway hena b (Ch under construction #\ Bha andr Ikhala ga) R a- #7 iver #\ R Pir Panjal Kishtwar #\ Atholi Ramban K3 route #\ Kaban (4314m) #\ #\ Gulabgarh Sohal #\ Siwalik Hills Baglihar Dam #\Tayari # #\ #Þ Shiva Kora Sanasar#\ #\ Doda Ishtiyari #\ Luj #\ #\ Patnitop Pi #\ r Pa Ransoo nja Killar JAMMU Puldoda l R #\ #\ a Sach Pass #\ ng Pauni #ÞVaishno Devi e (4390m) c Kiruni #\ Mantalai Katra #\ #\ #\ Bhaderwah Purthi L Tikri #\ Sartingal #\ ADA #\ Udhampur # Padri #\ Akhnoor Chattargala c K Pass H) H) Sarthal i w #\ #\ L a Ramnagar J T ADA amm Bani #\ #] Jammu Lowang #\ #\ K U & K & U H) H) AS #\ Ranjit Banikhet Samba #\ #\ Chamba H Sialkot Mahanpur Sagar #\ M #\ R #\ Lake Dalhousie a IR (I IR vi Lakhanpur #\ Dunhera #\ N Atal Setu C #] (Ravi Bridge) c L PAKISTAN Kathua UDI PUNJAB #\ McLeod 0 50 km ng #] e# 0 25 miles Pathankot Nurpur Ganj #\ L A D AK H) H) Jammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh) Highlights H I 1 2 3 (p248) (p270) G Indus Valley Markha Valley Srinagar H monasteries (p245) Experiencing the stark Enjoying an amusingly L I G Murmuring meditative magnificence of Ladakh with caricatured Raj-type H mantras in mural-decked a hassle-free (and traffic-free) experience relaxing on a ts gompas (Tibetan Buddhist homestay trek. deluxe Dal Lake houseboat. monasteries) such as Chemrey or Thiksey..