Sierra Greenway

As we shall read in the ‘History’ section below, no trains ever ran along the 36 Km of the Sierra Greenway route which lies at the foot of the southernmost mountain range of the , between the towns of and in the province of Cadiz.

This outstanding route, running parallel to the banks of a number of rivers, passes through some truly spectacular scenery such as the Peñón de Zaframagón (Rock of Zaframagón), home to one of the largest colonies of griffon vultures in Europe.

TECHNICAL DATA

CONDITIONED GREENWAY

Through the banks of Guadalete river and the Cádiz range, an attractive route that runs on the foot of the Peñón de Zaframagón: The largest vulture nesting in western europe.

LOCATION

Between Puerto Serrano and Olvera (Cádiz and ) CÁDIZ Y SEVILLA

Length: 36 km

Users: * *Apt but with two points of steep slopes

Type of surface: Puerto Serrano- (15 km) / Navalagrulla-Olvera (10 km): Mild irrigation asphalt Coripe-Navalagrulla (13 km): compacted earth

Natural landscape: River Guadalete banks. Natural reserve of “Peñón de Zaframagón”.

Cultural Heritage: Churches, castles and archaeological sites in different towns.

Infrastructure: Greenway. 4 viaducts. 30 tunnels. 5 stations.

How to get there: Olvera: Bus companies "Comes", "Casado"

Puerto Serrano: Bus companies “Casal", "Comes"

Coripe: Bus companies "Casal" "J. Rodríguez"

El Coronil: Bus companies "Casal", "San Roque"

Montellano: Bus companies "Casal"

Pruna: Bus companies "Transtres"

Connections: Sevilla: 72 Km to Puerto Serrano Cádiz: 75 Km to Málaga: 120 Km to Olvera

Maps: Military map os . Escale 1:50.000 Hojas 1035, 1036 y 1049 Official road map of the Ministry of Public Works. Ministerio de Fomento

More information on the Greenways guide Volume 1

DESCRIPTION

Km. 0 / Km. 9 / Km. 15 / Km. 20 / Km. 29 / Km. 28

Km 0

The route starts at the former Puerto Serrano railway station, built on an embankment overlooking the lowland of the Guadalete river. Its old buildings now house a small hotel and restaurant for visitors to the Greenway, and an adjoining car park. We set off along the obvious route and immediately find ourselves on the first (and only) diversion from the original route of the railway. The long El Indiano tunnel proved impossible to restore for use by the Greenway due to a series of cave-ins; instead we take a diversion that leads us to the first of many tunnels dotted along the route.

From here we follow the Greenway to Los Llanos de la Reyerta whose name (the literal translation of which is ‘The Flatlands of the Affray’) conjures up images of some long forgotten dispute. Here we come across the first of a number of water mills powered by the waters of the Guadalete river which runs high and fast at certain times of the year. The surrounding land also becomes rebellious and wild, with massive rocks emerging from the subsoil. The relentless force of the current has gradually eroded the rock to cut a steep- sided ravine through which the river threads its way in a series of rapids. At Km 5.9 the Greenway crosses the Arroyo de los Azares via the first of four major viaducts on our route. These spectacular constructions, together with the large number of tunnels along the way, enable us to negotiate the many natural obstacles in our path without losing height.

After emerging from the Azares tunnel, the Greenway overhangs the river and passes through

a curious open-sided tunnel. This is followed by another, curved, tunnel almost 500m long. This is the first illuminated tunnel on our route, though it is a good idea to carry a torch in case the lighting fails....

Km 9

At the other end of the tunnel, the valley opens up as the Guadalete river is joined by the more abundant waters of the Guadalporcún river at Junta de los Ríos (Km 9). A small car park has been provided at this point for those visitors wishing to start the route here, while the nearby Finca de la Toleta has been prepared as a recreational area and a camp site where tourists equipped for camping can spend the night.

At the Junta de los Ríos, the Greenway and the Guadalete go their separate ways. The old railway line follows the winding course of the Guadalporcún through the rugged terrain of the Betic mountains. Once again the engineers had to put their skills to work on the construction of a beautiful viaduct over the Arroyo de Gillete (Km 12.3). They also had to bore through a mountain or two, the most outstanding tunnel and the longest on the route (990m) being the one driven through the foot of the Cerro del Castillo.

Km 15

After a long viaduct we arrive at Km 14.5 and the Coripe railway station (now refurbished as a Hotel-Restaurant), another of the recommended access points to this route. From here to Zaframagón we need to pass through five tunnels. Nature prevails on either side of the Greenway; neither roads nor villages disturb the peace and quiet of a landscape in which the only background noise comes from birds and crickets. At Km 20.5 the Zaframagón railway station comes into view, and from here it is just a short way to the highlight of this Greenway: the Peñón de Zaframagón (Rock of Zaframagón).

Now refurbished from its previous state of ruin, the station building is home to the Sierra Greenway Interpretation Centre. This centre is equipped with a number of information boards providing details of the natural parks in , the Greenways, the griffon vultures, etc. as well as an information room and a small library. Thanks to an

agreement signed between the Department of the Environment of the Cadiz Provincial Council and the Sierra Greenway Foundation, since September 2006 it has been possible to enjoy the benefits of a project which aims to help visitors learn more about the habits and peculiarities of the griffon vulture, one of the great attractions of the Sierra Greenway. By means of an easy to use joystick-controlled camera with a powerful zoom and a 360 degree field of vision, visitors to the Zaframagón interpretation centre can focus in on many of the nesting and perching sites of these fascinating birds. The images captured by the camera are shown on a large screen installed inside the interpretation centre. This equipment is not only for the enjoyment of tourists; it is also used as a source of information by the environmentalists responsible for monitoring these birds, since all the images are permanently recorded for later study. In spite of the relatively short time it has been open (and therefore publicized), in September 2006 the centre was visited by nearly 400 people, who expressed a high level of satisfaction with the experience.

Km 20

The western side of the Peñón de Zaframagón has been cut into by the waters of the Guadalporcún forming a narrow ravine known as El Estrechón. Our route takes us several dozen metres above the river over the elegant Zaframagón viaduct before passing beneath the Peñón through a straight 700m long tunnel, guided by the pinpoint of light shining in from the other end.

On the other side the landscape opens up into meadows with the angular silhouette of the distant Sierra de Líjar as a backdrop. Livestock farms can be seen on either side of the Greenway, which gradually starts to gain height on its way to the Navalagrulla railway station at Km 27.3. Before reaching this out-of-the-way station we will need to pass through four more tunnels. Just like the El Peñón station before, this station is miles away from any town or village, so remote that it is hard to imagine there ever being any passengers on its platforms.

Km 29

The last stage of this Greenway runs along the hill separating the basins of the rivers Guadalporcún y Guadamanil. The route now runs through gently rolling countryside and takes us through a further six tunnels. At Km 29.5 we come across an unusual switchback section as the Greenway drops into a river bed which had been previously avoided by an embankment that has long since disappeared.

After that little excitement our Greenway crosses the Colada de Morón (Km 32), an old livestock trail. We are now just three kilometres away from the impressive Olvera railway station, but in this short distance the elements have conspired to practically erase the railway works from the face of the earth. Only a few tunnels survived, three of which were eventually used by the Greenway.

Km 36

Between the tunnels the new path clings to the hillside in a winding route which finally takes us to the platforms of Olvera railway station. The station building, unquestionably the most attractive of all the buildings on this railway, is now home to a charming hotel and restaurant. After a gentle climb during which we have Olvera Castle in view, we reach the historic white town of Olvera.

MAPS

PROFILE

RAILWAY HISTORY

The Sierra Railway, which was to run from to Almargen, was a project conceived at the turn of the 20th century. It had been the dream of generations of people living in the Guadalete basin and on the higher land near Olvera.

The military were also keen to have a railway link between their bases at Cartagena and Cadiz. With the blessing of all, work began swiftly under the auspices of dictator General Primo de Rivera. The Spanish Civil War brought the work to a halt, and once the war was over the austere post-war years were not the best time to re-launch the project. Finally, in the mid-sixties, the project was finally and definitively abandoned following a report from the World Bank. All the stations, tunnels, and viaducts had been built but no tracks had ever been laid.

Of the 119 kilometres of this vast project, only 21 kilometres from Jerez to the Jédula sugar plant ever went into operation. Tracks were laid as far as but only test trains ever ran on them. A family of railway workers lived for a few years in the station buildings as if waiting for a train that was never to arrive.

INTERESTING DATA

1. Festivals and holidays 2. Accommodation 3. Eco-tourism 4. Managing Authority 5. Town Councils 6. Emergencies 7. Coaches & buses 8. Railway

Festivals and holidays

El Coronil August 15 Feria de San Roque

Pruna 1st Sunday in May Romería de la Pura y Limpia

Montellano May 15 Romería de San Isidro Labrador. Fiesta Declarada de Interés Turístico Nacional de Andalucía

Olvera Second Monday after Easter Sunday Romería de Lunes de Quasimodo

Puerto Serrano January 1 Toro del Aguardiente

From July 22 to 25 Romería de Santa María Magdalena

Coripe Domingo de Resurrección Quema del Judas

First Sunday after May13 Romería de la Virgen de Fátima

Corpus Christi Procesiones

Accommodation

Montellano Hostal Deli Tel. 95 487 541 10

Hostal Viñita Tel. 95 487 50 04

Hostal Boby Tel. 95 487 53 56

Puerto Serrano Hotel Pueblos Blancos Tel. 956 13 60 56

Hotel - Restaurante Estación de Puerto Serrano Tel. 955 89 81 90

Bar Pastor Tel. 955 85 85 69

Coripe Hostal Pastor Tel. 955 85 85 69

Hotel Estación Vía Verde Casas Rurales Tel. 620 01 37 08 y 696 95 51 98 www.estacionviaverdecoripe.com

Apartamentos Coripe Rural Telfs. 955 858 675 // 655 526 716 www.coriperural.com

Olvera Hotel Estación Verde Tel. 661 463 207

Hotel Sierra y Cal ** Tel. 956 13 05 42

Hotel Fuente del Pino ** Tel. 956 13 02 32

La casa de La Villa. Alojamiento rural Tel. 666 841 230; 637 014 499

Pensión Maqueda Tel. 956 13 07 33

Pensión Medina Tel. 956 13 01 73

Pensión Cantalejo Tel. 956 13 08 56

Eco-tourism

Fundación Vía Verde de la Sierra Tel. 956 13 63 72, www.fundaciónviaverdedelasierra.com

Patrulla Verde. (Visitas guiadas, alquiler de bicicletas) Tel. 955 858 610 / 655 526 716, www.coriperural.com

Taxi Coripe - AndiCar. (Transfer de bicicletas) Tel. 691 448 722 / 655 526 716

TUGASA, Turismo Gaditano S.A. Tel. 956 33 47 89, www.dipucadiz.es/tugasa

Sevilla Rural S.A. Tel. 954 22 25 80

Mancomunidad de Municipios de la Sierra de Cádiz. Tel. 956 73 11 85

Mancomunidad de Municipios Altos del Sur de Sevilla Tel. 95 585 02 64

Club de Parapente . Tel. 956 13 70 03

Managing Authority

Fundación Vía Verde de la Sierra Plaza de Andalucía, 2 11659 · Puerto Serrano · Cádiz Tel.: 956 136372 Fax: 956 136357 www.fundacionviaverdedelasierra.com [email protected]

Town Councils

Montellano. Tel. 95 487 50 10

Olvera. Tel. 956 13 00 11 Castillo. Tel. 956 22 21 41 (Horario de 10h.-13h. y 16h.-18h.)

Puerto Serrano. Tel. 956 12 70 42

Coripe. Tel. 955 85 85 02

El Coronil. Tel. 95 583 68 15

Pruna. Tel. 95 485 83 07

Emergencies

EMERGENCIES: Tel. 062

Coaches & buses

Puerto Serrano y Olvera Empresa Comes. Tel. 956 70 20 15 (Desde Cádiz y Sevilla) Empresa Los Amarillos. Tel. 956 70 02 57 (Desde Cádiz)

Coripe Empresa J. Rodríguez. (Desde Morón)

Olvera Empresa Casado. (Desde Málaga) Estación de autobuses. Tel. 605 027477

Taxi Coripe - AndiCar. (Transfer de bicicletas) Tel. 691 448 722 / 655 526 716

Railway www.renfe.es Tel. 902 24 02 02

LINKS

www.fundacionviaverdedelasierra.com The Sierra Greenway Foundation has its own web page setting out its purpose and aims, which describes the main tourist attractions of the Greenway. It provides extensive practical information about the towns and villages along the route. www.ayto-olvera.org The town council’s official website containing a variety of information about the municipality.

www.puertoserrano.es The town council’s official website containing a variety of information about the municipality. www.patrullaverde.com A patrol set up to supervise, maintain, and act as guides for the Greenway. www.navalagrulla.com Web page of the Club Ciclista de Navalagrulla (Navalagrulla Cycling Club) http://perso.wanadoo.es/platero64/ Web page of the "El Platero" riding school and trekking centre. www.estacionverdeolvera.com Web page of the former Olvera railway station, now converted into rural accommodation. www.estaciondecoripe.com Web page of the former Coripe railway station, now converted into rural accommodation. www.complejoruralkiko.com Web page of the former Puerto Serrano railway station, now converted into rural accommodation.

MULTIMEDIA

VÍDEO - Serie Vive la Vía

Una línea de ferrocarril por la que nunca llegó a circular el tren, entre las provincias de Sevilla y Cádiz, se nos ofrece ahora convertida en Vía Verde, en este capítulo de la serie Vive la Vía. Una ruta de 36 kilómetros para recorrer en bicicleta y caminando un sinfín de impresionantes viaductos y túneles, que nos acercan a los pueblos blancos y a los paisajes insólitamente verdes de la serranía del sur. Un placer para los sentidos de los visitantes, y un recurso turístico de enorme repercusión para los habitantes de sus pueblos.

Parte 1 de 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=AmD14LQxu7I

Parte 2 de 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=rnQedOLVzqs