Seeds of preserved by Hyogo Prefecture

Yamada Nishiki was developed in Hyogo Prefecture in 1936. Since then its seeds have been strictly controlled to protect its high quality characteristics. Each year, farmers in Hyogo grow Yamada Nishiki using these seeds. As shown below, the Yamada Nishiki’s original characteristics have been rigidly maintained since the first breeder’s seeds. Yamada Nishiki is a thoroughbred of -brewing that further enriches the flavor of Japanese sake.

1st generation 2nd generation 3rd generation 4th generation 5th generation Breeder’s seeds Original foundation Foundation stock Seeds Yamada Nishiki stock Yamada Nishiki’s 3rd-generation Yamada 4th-generation Yamada The raw material for origin. Only in Hyogo, 2nd-generation Yamada Nishiki selected from Nishiki selected from making Japanese sake, where grown, can the Nishiki selected from original foundation foundation stock, used 5th-generation Yamada name“Breeder’ s seeds” breeder’s seeds, used stock, used for making to produce Yamada Nishiki is delivered to be used. for making foundation “seeds.” Nishiki for sake sake breweries. stock. 1 2 3 14 brewing.

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Next breeders’ seeds Aiming for a new world, Roots whose characteristics are confirmed from 14 family lines form the next breeders’ seeds. the YamadaYamada NNishikiishiki challenge continues

Hyogo Kita Nishiki Hyogo Prefecture provides Gohyaku Mangoku Fukunohana moremore thanthan YamadaYYamada NishikiNishiki JAJA TAJIMAT JA TANBA HIKAMI JJAA HARIMAHA Hyogo Kita Nishiki JA TANBA SASAYAMA Gohyaku Mangoku Also from the In the Yamada Nishiki family JAJA HYOGOHYOGO NISHIN sake rice kingdom of Hyogoyogo Gohyaku Mangoku

Hyogo Yume Nishiki GohyakuGohyaku HyogoHyH ogo YYumeume Yamada Nishiki MangokuMangoku NishikiNishiki JA HYOGO MIRAI JA HYOGO ROKKO

Grains and white cores llargerarger JAJ AIOI Produced only in Hyogo than Yamada Nishikiki JA HYOGO MINAMI

JJAA KAKOGAWAK MINAMI

JA AKASHI Hyogo Fukunohana JA AWAJI HINODE Kita Nishikii

JA AWAJISHIMA

Hyogo Prefecture Hyogo Sake Rice Association Yamada Nishiki, from Hyogo Prefecture, HYOGO PREFECTURAL HEADQUARTERS NATIONAL FEDERATION OF AGRICULTURAL CO-OPERATIVE ASSOCIATIONS Celebrating its 80th anniversary Sake Shop 80th Anniversary Special Interview Yamada Nishiki’s 80th Anniversary: the First Year for Promoting Sake to the World Connecting Yamada Nishiki and Consumers

Making Hyogo Increasing Value with Terroir Sake’s Elegance Koichi Hasegawa Satoshi Kimijima the Land of Sake President/CEO, Hasegawa Saketen, Inc. President, Yokohama Kimijimaya Co., Ltd. Koichi Hasegawa says,“When going to breweries “I think that taste of sake is first decided by the around , I sometimes ask them to make brewing rice. Through many years of tasting sake, I’ve Hidetoshi Nakata Photo: Junichi Takahashi Junmai Ginjo with Hyogo Prefecture Yamada come to understand that Hyogo Yamada Nishiki is an Nishiki. That’s how much I think it can make good ingredient from which one can draw a dignified and While holding events around the world there’s still little information on its emphasized that the land is an sake.” Hasegawa, who actively works to increase sophisticated flavor,” says sake and wine lecturer and to promote sake, Hidetoshi Nakata also terroir, the quality of the soil.” important aspect of sake. It’d be people’s awareness of sake through the Sake IWC panel chairmen Satoshi Kimijima. Seeking actively goes to see brewing in action. By working to properly share such interesting to hold a competition to Competition and so on, shared his thoughts about good-tasting sake, he arrived at its rice:“There is no Based on his firsthand experiences of information with customers, the share Japanese sake in Hyogo. I think terroir.“If the amount of sake exported increases, better brewing rice than Hyogo Yamada Nishiki. Its top sake culture̶he has been to around everyone would understand if we said possibilities of sake and brewing rice requests to see where its rice is produced will quality is thanks to its terroir: the soil, climate, and 250 breweries̶and the voices of those that we are doing it here because can rapidly expand. With this in mind, grow. During such visits, there’s a need to explain people. Each rice paddy produces different sake.” He who make it, he notes,“Information on people here make some wonderful rice; Nakata took part in the development of the area’s terroir̶history, soil, climate, people, says that Yamada Nishiki paddies are top-class fields sake and the rice used to make it has they’d get that this is the land of sake. the sake search application and so on̶as well as about Yamada Nishiki itself. like Burgundy’s Montrachet.“Sake made with rice In the end this will not only support not been properly shared, even with “Sakenomy.” It’s one tool for delivering By doing so, sake’s value increases.” Hasegawa from these fields has a depth the same as or greater Japanese people. Even though it is this knowledge to people.“Rice quality sake breweries throughout Japan, but firmly believes that the sake market is growing. than wine in terms of flavor and aroma. Compared to seen as obvious in the industry, I don’t greatly affects sake quality, although it also lead to people involved in growing “Ingredients are not things to just be delivered to this depth, its price is too low. We should have highly think there’s really anyone in the is difficult to generalize. Gohyaku other sake-brewing rice working even breweries. I think brewers should themselves go to acclaimed sake that is graded like wine. I think that general public who knows that the rice Mangoku doesn’t give you a flavor like harder to not get left behind. What’s the farmers, to where the ingredients are produced, this will definitely happen if it is exported and used for sake is different than that for Yamada Nishiki, and in the same way wonderful about Yamada Nishiki is that and see it all for themselves while exchanging establishes a reputation. This kind of reputation will eating. There’s probably no one who Yamada Nishiki isn’t Omachi. Each has everyone in the industry knows about information. By doing so, the value of Hyogo create confidence and pride in growers, and also lead can name ten sake brands, never mind their own nature, which serve as a it. In the future it can play the role of Prefecture’s terroir will probably increase as well.” to an increase in their numbers.” Regarding the future the rice it’s made from. Even naming basis for consumer decisions. Put bringing other rice forward.” In closing, he said that the Sake Brewing Rice Trial of Yamada Nishiki, Kimijima states,“Put in terms of ten kinds of rice produced as food simply, I want to make‘Sakenomy’ the Nakata has not only become Plot is a Hyogo treasure, and research should be wine, it should go in the direction of terroir and natural would be hard. Japanese people have Google of sake. One can learn with the knowledgeable about sake, but also expanded with donations from breweries throughout farming. I’d like for even more of an emphasis to be not been educated about food, and I information it provides, and then participated in planting and harvesting the country. placed on quality instead of quantity.” think that their understanding of its choose what to drink. It all can be done sake-brewing rice in Hyogo. Smiling, he essential nature is pretty weak.” just with this app. In addition, it also says that he has done it both with a He says that this is the reason that has to provide information on food combine and with his hands. He seems Yamada Nishiki needs to be actively pairings, ingredients like rice and water, to take much pleasure in the world of promoted in various ways.“No matter and so on.” sake. In closing, he offered supporting what brewery you go to, everyone talks Even in the case of a top sake-brewing words to those involved in Yamada about how Yamada Nishiki from Hyogo rice like Yamada Nishiki, the public’s Nishiki:“It all depends on the ideas prefecture is firmer and thicker than awareness of it is inadequate, which people come up with̶both sake and rice from other prefectures. However, leads to there being not enough brewing rice should get even more growers. Nakata, who says that interesting.” branding is important for creating an Hasegawa Saketen, Inc. Yokohama Kimijimaya Co., Ltd. environment in which young people in President/CEO Koichi Hasegawa has been to over 1,000 breweries throughout Satoshi Kimijima is the fourth generation head of Yokohama Kimijimaya Co., their twenties and thirties want to grow Hidetoshi Nakata Profile the country, seeking to discover new sake. The company has locations in Ltd. He tries to offer high quality and good-tasting sake̶even if it is Omotesando Hills, at Tokyo Skytree, and many other popular spots. Hasegawa unknown̶as well as sake whose producers are clear. In addition to being an the rice, suggested to hold a sake Nakata has appeared in the FIFA World Cup three times as works to promote sake both inside and outside of Japan. IWC panel chairmen and working as a sake lecturer, he also holds sake seminars a member of Japan’s team. After retiring he continued to overseas. competition in Hyogo to share sake travel in Japan as well as overseas. In 2009, he established the Take Action Foundation. His domestic travel during with the world.“When introducing sake the same year led him to establish the Revalue Nippon to people from overseas, they have Project that supports traditional Japanese culture, folk crafts, and so on. While traveling in Japan, he encountered trouble understanding that while the fascinating world of sake. He has visited 250 breweries. Since 2014 he has worked as a presenter at the wine-making is about the land on which Sake Competition, which decides the top sake in the the grapes were grown, sake is more world. In 2015, he established the Japan Craft Sake Company. Since 2003 he has been Tohato's Corporate Photo: Junichi Takahashi than just that. Thus it needs to be Brand Officer. 1 2 National sake breweries Survey & messages Sake breweries in Hyogo Prefecture Yamada Nishiki from Hyogo Prefecture: Bonds with sake breweries in Hyogo, Reasons for choosing & expectations moving forward together

Yamada Nishiki continues evolving with Kenji Kano SurveySurvey results on Yamada Nishiki pproducedroduced in HHyogoyogo Prefecture President, Nadagogo Brewers Association its wonderful history (President, Hakutsuru Sake Brewing Co., Ltd.) No. 1 Koji（rice mold） is easy to grow, and of high quality 45% Nada’s sake breweries, referred to as the their considerable knowledge and Nada Gogo, are some of the most famous experience to figure out its superiority. No. 2 Sake smells good 12% in Japan. Through the MURAMAI System＊, Thus they began to grow it. I think it’s a unique sake rice dealing system in Hyogo wonderful that it has continued to be the No. 3 Excellent rice polishing characteristics area, they are strongly connected to best brewing rice for eighty years.” Some （less , low rate of unavailable rice polishing, etc.） 11% Yamada Nishiki in a way not found in other visitors from overseas at the Hakutsuru prefectures.“Having thought about rice Sake Brewery Museum ask to see the quality with farmers and made sake paddies where this rice is produced.“In the No. 4 Less soaking crack grains (immersion cracks) of rice polishing when absorbing water together̶it’s really a valuable history for West and some other areas, people are Hakutsuru Sake Brewing Co., Ltd. Established in 1743, the company name was No. 5 Low protein Nada’s sake breweries,” says Kenji Kano. becoming more health-conscious, so I’d like changed to Hakutsuru Sake Brewing Co., Ltd. in According to Kenji Kano, Yamada Nishiki is to take the lead in promoting our sake as an 1947. Under the slogan, “To Friendship for all No. 6 High rate of white-core manifestation time”, the company strives to combine old a rice ideally suited for brewing sake due to agricultural product that’s made with the traditions and new technologies in its sake No. 7 Large grain size brewing. the shape of the white core, its balanced blessings of Hyogo’s natural environment. No. 8 Uniform grains ＊MURAMAI System is a contract farming composition, and so on.“When machines Both sake and Yamada Nishiki are profound. system unique to the area that has been weren’t developed, our predecessors used I’d like to try out various possibilities.” established to strengthen cooperation 【In addition】 between breweries and farmers. ・Easily digestibile (solubility)・Akiagari is available (sake first released in early autumn) Brewing General Manager Yuichi Fujita, ・Produces best quality sake・Complete sake quality (range of tastes)・Rich taste and high clarity Yamada Nishiki, giving genuine taste of rice Kenbishi Sake Brewing Co., Ltd. ・More stable brewing・Delicate sweetness (delicious flavor) even up to the same SMV (sake meter value) Kenbishi Sake Brewing Co., Ltd., has quality. I can say that based on experience, ・Suitable for exhibitions・Expected high-grade rich taste unique to Yamada Nishiki engaged to maintain its characteristic flavor which is the most important when making for over 500 years. The brewery primarily sake,” says Yuichi Fujita. There is also data ＊ Based on the responses from 300 sake breweries and 5 sake brebrewwerer associations in Japan to a surveysurvey on Yamada NishiNishikiki pproduceroducedd in HHyogoyogo Prefecture (conducted(conducted September 2015).2015). uses Yamada Nishiki produced in Hyogo. Its from the Sake Brewing Rice Trial Plot to YamadaY d Nishiki Ni hiki iis bonds with producers that have been formed back this up. Its solubility is excellent over many years transcend that of buyer and because the amylopectin side chains in its used at seller: even when the number of breweries starch are short. Furthermore, an acclaimed 543 sake breweries using Yamada Nishiki sharply dropped, seed management system is in place. Kenbishi supported farmers by buying the “Protein remains to some extent, which Kenbishi Sake Brewing Co., Ltd. rice, and after the brewery collapsed due to becomes umami and creates Kenbishi’s Founded before 1505. Moved their cellar from in Japan. Hokkaido 4 Itami to Nada to establish Kenbishi Sake Brewing the Great Hanshin Earthquake, farmers it characteristic flavor.” Fujita also noted that Co., Ltd. The spirit of “Always the best throughout history” has been handed down Akita 20 Aomori 9 Yamada Nishiki is delivered had contracts with provided support. there is a need for continued effort to reduce from generation to generation for over 500 years, sustaining its superb taste. through JA Group Hyogo to sake Niigata 36 “Yamada Nishiki has good solubility and differences in quality due to weather. Yamagata 22 Iwate 12 brewing companies in 43 Nagano 22 Toyama 12 Ibaraki 16 Chairman Takeyoshi Honda, prefectures from Hokkaido in the Tottori 4 Miyagi 18 Ishikawa 24 Gunma 17 A gift from heaven, Yamada Nishiki has self-made value Honda Shoten Co., Ltd. north to Miyazaki in the south. Shimane 11 Fukui 10 Shiga 5 Fukushima 27 Tochigi 18 Okayama 4 Kyoto 19 Honda Shoten Co., Ltd. has won Gold five “Yamada Nishiki is nature’s blessing. It Hiroshima 8 Saitama 21 years in a row at the Annual Japan Sake brings out yeast’s characteristics, creating Yamaguchi 5 Chiba 11 Awards. The Chairman, Takeyoshi Honda, good-tasting sake.” Honda Shoten’s Tokyo 6 Saga 4 loves Hyogo Prefecture Yamada Nishiki Tatsuriki sake is receiving acclaim outside Kanagawa 7 Oita 7 Yamanashi 1 more than any other rice . He is of Japan as well. Honda, who is aiming to Kumamoto 5 Shizuoka 12 now 83 years old (in 2016), and continues to make sake’s Romanée-conti with the best Miyazaki 2 Aichi 24 research the soil of areas in which Yamada Yamada Nishiki, notes,“The value of Gifu 19 Mie 1 Nishiki TOKU'A'（Special place 'A'） is Yamada Nishiki is something one creates.” Honda Shoten Co., Ltd. Kochi 9 Nara 13 produced as a research fellow at Kyoto Furthermore, to honor Teiji Fujikawa, Engaged exclusively in sake brewing as an overall director of Ehime 21 Wakayama 7 Banshu brewmasters since the Genroku period. Mr. Honda’s University. He explains that the goodness of the foster parent of Yamada Nishiki, he grandfather was a brewmaster for Hakutsuru. Ahead of all Kagawa 3 Osaka 5 others in the industry, in 1970 he created Ginjo-shu, brewed Yamada Nishiki comes from the soil that proposes creating a“Teiji Fujikawa Award” from thoroughly polished rice. In August 1981, he established Tokushima 2 Hyogo 40 the Japan Ginjo Sake Association as its first president. From has smectite in its clay mineral composition, given to breweries using and recognizing the his conviction that good sake comes from good rice, he is （Survey by Hyogo Sake Rice Association） particular about Yamada Nishiki more than others. as well as it being grown in Hyogo. quality of Yamada Nishiki. 3 4 Yamada Nishiki Producer 80 years later, its popularity remains strong. “Yamada Nishiki is My Life”

Yamada Nishiki from Hyogo Prefecture. Toshihiro Ioo Head of Yamada Nishiki MURAMAI Division, Yokawa town Passing Down Yamada Nishiki Profile of Yamada Nishiki “The three elements of climate, soil, and passion are Japan Agricultural Cooperatives’ experts properly pass ■Birthday February 27, 1936 indispensable for growing Yamada Nishiki. This ingredient down growing techniques and technology. He says,“We ■Parents Developed from artificial crossing of female“Yamada bo” and male“Tankan Wataribune.” wouldn’t exist without them,” says Ioo, who has devoted must pass down Yamada Nishiki’s eighty years of history himself to growing Yamada Nishiki. Yamada Nishiki has and growing techniques and technology. Furthermore, ■Birthplace Seed and horticultural division at Hyogo Prefecture Agricultural Experiment Station (then Akashi City) and Sake Brewing Rice Experimental Plot (currently the Sake Brewing been grown thanks to the involvement of various people, there is also a need to form close and trusting Rice Trial Plot at the Hyogo Prefectural Technology Center for , Forestry and the bonds between farmers and breweries are relationships with consumers. It’s my hope that and Fisheries) especially strong:“In the case of the MURAMAI System, it consumers will drink sake made with Yamada Nishiki and ■Height Approx. 130 cm (Stem length: 108 cm, Ear length: 20.9 cm) is necessary to secure a stable supply of Yamada Nishiki. enjoy it more and more.” ■Weight Approx. 28.1 g (thousand grains weight of ) We help breweries when they are in trouble. The Yamada Ioo’s inexhaustible passion is apparent in his plans to Nishiki MURAMAI System is built on trusting relationships construct new organizations to pass down his love for ■Features As rice ideally suited for brewing sake, Yamada Nishiki boasts a complete list of advantages including grain size, shape of the white core, moisture level, and low amounts with breweries.” He says that in the future it will be Yamada Nishiki to the next generation. In closing, Ioo of fats and proteins. necessary to check what breweries feel is the strength of emphatically remarked,“Yamada Nishiki is my life.” TOKU'A'（Special place 'A'） Yamada Nishiki compared to ＊Height and weight are taken from the “2014 Crop-Weather Relationship Survey (Sake Brewing Rice Trial Plot), Normal Values for Medium Seedlings”. other Yamada Nishikis. Answering the needs of breweries ''Teiji Fujikawa'', foster parent of Yamada Nishiki, will support Yamada Nishiki’s future. is the first researcher of the Sake-brewing Rice Experimental Plot In response to the aging of producers, the Yokawa 1895 ‒ 1946 Fujikawa started growing Yamada Nishiki from 1932. Day after day, in rain, shine or storm, he bicycled the approximately 6 km rough mountainous road from his home to the experimental plot, and more than 20 km to the experimental paddy field. Unable to afford a new bike even after so many flats, he continued town is working to maintain this producing area by riding the old one with patched-up tires. In 1936, Yamada Nishiki was designated a recommended variety of the prefecture. But due to World War II, Fujikawa abandoned his research and chose to retire. At age 51, he died from illness. If he could see Yamada Nishiki’s popularity today, he would be so surprised. creating producer organizations, such as one for agricultural management.“Having a system for forming Crop acreage and quantity of test samples for inspection of ～Center of Research of Sake-brewing Rice～ Yamada Nishiki grown in Hyogo Sake Brewing Rice Trial Plot in Hyogo relationships with new farmers is also important. They are 10000 30000 Rice crop acreage (ha) The only research station specialized in sake-brewing rice, the people who are shouldering Yamada Nishiki’s future. breeding of sake-brewing rice and development of cultivation methods Test sample inspection quantity (t) 25000 8000 ■Organization Furthermore, there is a need for the national or prefectural 20000 Hyogo Prefectural Technology Center for Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries; Sake 6000 Brewing Rice Trial Plot, Agriculture Technology Center Agriculture and Horticulture government to create a systematized mechanism by which 15000 Division 4000 people who also have other jobs can grow it in a stable 10000 ■History July 1928 Sake-brewing rice experimental plot established in Fukuda, Kato gun

Rice crop acreage (ha) 2000 5000 (present-day Yashiro town) way.” April 1950 Name of the sake-brewing rice experimental plot changed to“Fukuda 0 0 Test sample inspection quantity (t) foundation seed stock farm” For both Yamada Nishiki’s future and producers of the August 1952 Name of the Fukuda foundation seed stock farm changed to“Sake

1937 1939 1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 Brewing Rice Trial Plot” next generation, it is important that the prefecture and

＊Interviews in this booklet were conducted between August and December 2015. Why is Hyogo Called a Unique“Terroir” for Yamada Nishiki?

Climate and TerrainSoil Revealing the Special Features of Yamada Nishiki The growing region of Yamada Nishiki, spreading over Roots of the rice extend about 1 m deep in the clayey Large Grain Size White Cores Solubility terraced slopes 50‒150 m above sea level and valley montmorillonite soil common in this region. Deep in soil with Thousand grains weight of Yamada Nishiki Rate of white-core manifestation is about 70%. Many grains Due to short side chains of amylopectin regions in foothills north of Mt. Rokko, is blessed with strong water and nutrient retention, the roots absorb moisture brown rice is approximately 28.1 g. have a linear-shaped white core and high water absorbability, in starch, the starch accumulates or other table rice for eating weighs about 22 g. allowing koji (rice mold) to easily enter the grains. (See photo) slowly, enabling excellent solubility. perfect climate conditions. and nutrients from the lower soil layers. Because its strong ＊Reference: Hyogo Sakamai Kenkyu Group. Yamada Nishiki monogatari ‒ Hito to fudo ga sodateta Nihon ichi no sakamai. Nojigiku Bunko Located in the Seto Inland Sea roots stretched deep into the lower soil layers, Yamada Nishiki climate zone, the region enjoys grown in this region survived a withering drought in 1994. ■Results of Quality Study on Yamada Nishiki Brown Rice Cropped in 2014 ≥ mild climate throughout thee （cm） ■Thousand grains weight ■Grain ratio with thickness 2.2 mm ■Rate of white-core manifestation year with long hours of (15% moisture content) (estimated using grain discrimination device) 10 400 300 350 sunshine and relatively loww 350 250 300 20 300 rainfall. And yet, with thee 200 250 250 200 30 200 150 Rokko Mountains blocking thee 150 Frequency Frequency Frequency 150 100 warm air, nighttime 40 100 100 temperatures during the 50 50 50 50 0 0 0 grain-filling period are low and 26.5 27.0 27.5 28.0 28.5 29.0 29.5 30.0 10.0 15.0 20.0 25.0 30.0 35.0 40.0 45.0 50.0 30.0 40.0 50.0 60.0 70.0 80.0 90.0 60 Data section Data section Data section the daytime temperature Data count: 1020, Mean: 28.1, Data count: 1020, Mean: 20.1, Data count: 910, Mean: 59.8, Shapes of white cores at SD: 0.60, Min.: 26.1, Max. : 29.9 SD: 7.07, Min.: 5.3, Max.: 46.3 SD: 10.48, Min.: 26.4, Max.: 89.8 cross-sections of brown rice difference exceeds 10°C, ＊Photo: Provided by (From left: linear, intermediate, Honda Shoten Co., Ltd. [Survey items & methods] ① Thousand grains weight: Measure the weight of 1,000 unprepared grain samples obtained and convert the weight at 15% moisture. ② Ratio of grains over 2.2 mm thick: Thoroughly hand-sift about Montmorillonite-rich soil suited for Root system of 30 g of samples obtained using 2.2 mm sieve for standard inspection (FUJI KINZOKU Co., Ltd.), and inspect percentage of grains over 2.2 mm thick. ③ Rate of white-core manifestation: Measure using SATAKE cereal graineye-shaped) producing good rice crops. discrimination device RGQI10B (provided with support from JA HYOGO MIRAI Ono Farm Guidance Center). cereal grain discrimination device indicates the white-core ratio (= perfect grains / total grain count × 100), whose growing Yamada Nishiki (Kato City) Yamada Nishiki (Kato City) correlation coefficient with the visually determined value at Sake Brewing Rice Trial Plot is 0.671 (significant at 1% level). Used as reference value for rate of white-core manifestation.

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