college
17-25 March 2006 North to South
Vietnam College TABLE OF CONTENTS
Schedule……………………………………………...... 5
Faculty………………………………………………...... 9
Attendees……………………………………...... 19
College Committee……………………………...... 23
First Timers………………………………………...... 26
Socials………………………………………...... 1
Off-Sites…………………………………......
Shopping & Dining Guide………………...... 41
Destination Guide...... 44
Member Indexes:
Area Index………………………………...... 48
Company Index………………………...... 50
Upcoming Events Index……………...... 53
YPO Chapter Index………………………...... 54
Notes…………………………………………………...... 55
- - SCHEDULE Schedule as of 22 February 2006. Please refer to on-site newsletters for most current agenda information.
Thursday, 16 March Saturday, 18 March sc h ed u le
All Day Arrivals 6:30-8:00am Breakfast Hospitality Committee Spices or Le Beaulieu Restaurant 10:00am-12noon Registration Metropole Hotel
12noon-2:30pm Hospitality Committee 6:30-7:30am Sunrise Walk Briefing and Luncheon Hoan Kiem Lake
3:00-5:00pm Hospitality Committee 7:30-11:00am CEO Information Desk Old Quarter Walking Tour 8:30-8:45am Opening Remarks 7:00-9:30pm Hospitality Committee Shad and Ann Khan Dinner Wild Rice 8:45–9:45am Education Plenary David Lamb Vietnam Now Friday, 17 March 10:00-11:00am Education Plenary All Day Arrivals Bill Hobdell Airport Pick-ups (Hanoi Visual Overview of Vietnam Airport) Metropole Hotel check-in 11:15am-12:15pm Education Plenary Lady Borton Morning Breakfast Ha Noi: Capital of Capitals Spices or Le Beaulieu Restaurant 12:15-1:30pm Buffet Lunch Metropole Hotel Spices Garden Terrace Metropole Hotel 10:00am-3:00pm CEO Registration/ Information/Off-Sites Desk 1:00-5:30pm Off-Sites 1:00-4:45pm Old Quarter Walking/Lunch 12noon hospitality Committee 2:00-4:30pm Hanoi Hilton Lunch 2:00-5:00pm Insider’s Look at Vietnamese Art Cha Ca La Vong 2:00-5:00pm Temple of Literature 2:00-5:00pm Vietnam’s Museum of 6:00-7:00pm Education Plenary Ethnology Vice Minister Le Van Bang 2:00-5:30pm Highlights of Hanoi Q&A Session
7:00-9:30pm Dinner 7:00-10:00pm Dinner Spice Garden Terrace Hanoi Opera House Metropole Hotel
- - Sunday, 19 March 1:00-5:30pm Off-Sites 6:30-8:00am Breakfast 1:00-4:45pm Old Quarter Walking/Lunch Spices or Le Beaulieu 1:45-3:30pm Discovery Photography with Restaurant Bill Hobdell Metropole Hotel 2:00-4:00pm Silk Design with Alan 2:00-4:30pm Hanoi Hilton sc h ed u le 2:00-5:00pm Temple of Literature with Lady 6:00-7:30am Off-Site Borton Photography with Bill 2:00-5:00pm Insider’s Look at Vietnamese Hobdell Art with Suzanne Lecht 2:00-5:00pm Vietnam’s Museum of 7:30-11:00am CEO Information Desk Ethnology 2:00-5:30pm Highlights of Hanoi 8:30-9:30am Education Plenary Panel Sandy Northrup (moderator), 4:00-6:00pm Shipping Desk Alan Duong, Henry Nguyen, Chien Bach Ngoc, Hung 6:30-10:00pm Dinner Pham Ba Vietnam History Museum Vietnam’s Next Generation
9:45-10:45am Education Breakouts Monday, 20 March Suzanne Lecht Contemporary Art in Vietnam You have two options today. You may either visit Halong Bay or Spend a Free day in Hanoi. Henry Nguyen The Economic Engine of Halong Bay Option: Vietnam 6:30am Breakfast Spices or Le Club Bar 11:00am-12noon Education Breakouts Metropole Hotel Lady Borton 7:00am Depart for Halong Bay Ho Chi Minh: How Did He via van Lead? 10:30am Arrive Halong Bay Dana Sachs & Mai Bui Hoai Understanding Vietnam 10:30-3:30pm Cruise on Junks Through its Language Lunch onboard 12noon-1:30pm Buffet Lunch 3:45pm Depart for Hai Phong Spices Garden Terrace Airport Metropole Hotel via van
5:50pm Arrive Hai Phong Airport For charter flight to Danang
8:30pm Arrive Furama Resort Social Surprise
- - Free Day in Hanoi Option: Andrew Hardy & Tien Dong Nguyen sc h ed u le 6:30am Breakfast The Political Economy of Spices or Le Club Bar Eaglewood & Culture of Metropole Hotel Ancient Champa
Afternoon Lunch on own 11:15am-12:15pm Education Breakouts Mike Eiland 3:30pm Depart for Hai Phong Aspects of the History of Airport Da Nang via van Peter Zinoman 5:50pm Arrive Hai Phong Airport Eastern Religions 101 For charter flight to Danang 12:15-1:30pm Buffet Luncheon 8:30pm Arrive Furama Resort Indochine Restaurant Social Surprise Furama Resort
Tuesday, 21 March 1:30-5:00pm Leisure Activities/Free Time 6:00-7:30am Marble Mountain Exercise 2:00-5:00pm hoi An Walking/Shopping 6:30am Breakfast on own Tour Departures Indochine Restaurant 5:30pm Depart for boat ride to 7:00-8:00am yoga on Beach Dinner Meet at Hoi An Waterfront 7:00-9:30am Discovery Photography in Hoi An 6:30-9:00pm Dinner Full Moon Towns Restaurant 7:30-8:30am First Timer Focus Group
8:00–9:45am CEO Information Desk Wednesday, 22 March
8:30-8:45am Welcoming Remarks 6:00am-2:00pm Off-Sites 6:00-7:30am Marble Mountain Exercise Walk 7:30am-5:30pm Hue with Peter Zinoman 8:45-9:45am Education Plenary 8:00-11:00am Marble Mountain Peter Zinoman 8:00-11:30am Walk and Shop Hoi An Walking History of Indochina Tour 8:00am-12:30pm Cham Ruins at My Son 10:00-11:00am Education Breakouts 8:30am-2:00pm Miss Vy’s Cooking Class Samantha Coomber 10:00am-12noon Cham Museum Hoi An: International Influences Past and Present 6:30-8:00am Breakfast on own Indochine Restaurant
7:30–9:00am CEO Information Desk
- - 12noon-1:30pm Buffet Luncheon 11:00am Depart for Danang Airport Indochine Restaurant 1:30pm Flight to Ho Chi Minh City 1:30-4:00pm CEO Information Desk 2:30pm Arrive Ho Chi Minh City 2:00-3:00pm Education Breakouts 3:30-5:00pm Tour Reunification Palace sc h ed u le Spencer Koerner, MD Telemedicine 4:30-5:00pm Check-in at Sheraton Phuong Le Thi Hoai & Chi Tran Hong with Sandy 5:00-7:00pm CEO Information Desk Nothrop Portraits of Progress: The 5:00pm Free Night Stories of Phuong and Chi
3:15-4:15pm Education Breakouts Friday, 24 March Mike Eiland Environment, Science and 6:00am Breakfast on own Technology Issues in Vietnam Saigon Café, Sheraton Saigon Dr. Jane Lindsay Hot Tubs and Hypertension: 7:00am-4:15pm Off-Sites Medical Myths and Muddles 7:00am-4:15pm Mekong Delta 9:00am-3:00pm Cu Chi Tunnels 4:30-5:30pm Education Plenary
David Lamb Afternoon Free Time Is Iraq America’s New Vietnam? 4:00-6:00pm Shipping Ship packages home 7:00-10:00pm Social China Beach Party 6:30-9:30pm Closing Social Furama Resort Beach Miss Saigon Dinner
Sheraton Rooftop
Thursday, 23 March Saturday, 25 March 6:30-8:00am Breakfast on own Indochine Restaurant 6:00-8:00am Breakfast on own Saigon Café 8:00–9:00am CEO Information Desk 8:00-9:00am CEO Information Desk 9:30–10:30am Education Plenary Samatha Coomber 9:45am Cambodia Post Academy Ho Chi Minh City: The Fall Departs and Rise of Saigon All Day Departures to HCMC Airport
- - FACULTY
Lady Borton NOTE: In Vietnam, the polite form of address Box 94, International Post is to append “Mr.” or “Ms.” to a person’s first Office name, not his or her family name. Surnames Hanoi, Vietnam precede first names as in the following T : 84.4.832.5229 example: [email protected] Mai Bui Hoai. Bui Hoai is a surname. Mai is a first name. So you would address him as Mr. Mai Lady Borton has been involved with Vietnam for nearly 40 years and is the only American to For the purposes of this booklet, we have written have lived and worked amidst all sides. She is co- the names with first name first and surname last.
editor of the bi-lingual series, Frequently Asked fac u lt y Questions About Vietnamese Culture, translator of General Giap’s memoirs, and author of the recently published biography, Ho Chi Minh: A Journey.
Chien Bach Ngoc TOPICS Ministry of Foreign Affairs Ha Noi: Capital of Capitals 7 Chu Van An Ho Chi Minh: How Did He Lead? Hanoi, Vietnam Temple of Literature & Ho Chi Minh Home Tour T : 84.090.323.3163 [email protected]
Mai Bui Hoai 235/45 Kim Nguu Hanoi, Vietnam Chien Bach Ngoc has devoted his career T : 84.91.359.2393 to sharing an “in touch,” progressive and [email protected] internationally-conscious Vietnam with the world. Educated in Melbourne, Australia at Monash University, Bach Ngoc began his career as an Mai Bui Hoai, a graduate of the Hanoi Fine English instructor at Hanoi Open University and Arts College, has exhibited his paintings and later served as a tour operator for the Vietnam photographs in Vietnam, Europe, and the United Veteran Tourism Service. In 1996, he joined States. For the book Two Cakes Fit for a King: Vietnam’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs and has Folktales from Vietnam, which he collaborated on represented Vietnam since then as Press Attaché with Nguyet Cam Nguyen and Dana Sachs, Bui and Press Officer both at home and at the Hoai created a series of original paintings on rice Vietnamese Embassy in the United States. paper, which were inspired by Buddhist pagoda paintings and the traditional folk art of Dong Ho TOPIC: Village in the Red River Delta. As a recipient of a Vietnam’s Next Generation (Panel Discussion) Rockefeller Foundation grant, Bui Hoai recently completed the documentary film, “The Rain on the River,” which explores the ways in which residents of two central Vietnamese villages have learned to survive despite the grief and trauma caused by war.
TOPIC: Contemporary Art in Vietnam with Dana Sachs (Illustrator)
- - Samantha Coomber Alan Duong Freelance Journalist Mosaique Hanoi, Vietnam 12 Hoa Mia T : 84.4.928.6087 Hanoi, Vietnam sammycoomber@yahoo. [email protected] co.uk
Alan Duong is something of a phoenix. All Samantha Coomber is an English travel and seemed lost in 1988, when she and her family lifestyle writer originally from London, now based fled Vietnam only to spend five futile years in Hanoi. Her background includes 14 years behind barbed-wire fences in a Hong Kong in the UK travel industry, with positions ranging detention camp. But since being repatriated to from a holiday representative in European ski her native Hanoi, Duong has metamorphosed and summer resorts, to sales and marketing for into the consummately successful Vietnamese y u lt fac various travel companies in London. entrepreneur. A one-month backpacking trip in 1998 in In 1996, after working for the Hong Kong Vietnam en route to Australia led Samantha to Construction Company for just a few months, a sudden career change as a writer and a life she realized she could not work for anyone other long passion for Vietnam. She has now spent than herself and she launched her own business, more than five years living, working and traveling Dal Orchid properties. She now presides over in Vietnam, exploring places few tourists go a thriving furniture and home-accessories and updating and researching three Rough business. Mosaique, her boutique on Hanoi’s Guides travel guidebooks (Vietnam edition trendy Nha Tho Street, is an elegant showcase and two Southeast Asia Vietnam sections). In for a variety of locally made quilts, tea sets, 2002, the Vietnam National Administration of lamps and furniture. She exports her custom- Tourism, head-hunted Samantha to help set- designed Vietnamese handicraft and fashions to up and launch a new monthly tourism / ex-pat buyers the world over. magazine in Hanoi and serve as editor and writer. She would be the first and only foreigner TOPICS: in this government department. After nearly four Vietnam’s Next Generation (Panel Discussion) successful years on the magazine, Samantha left Design with Alan Off-Site in 2005 to concentrate on working full-time as a freelance writer in Vietnam. Publication credits include author of the first edition Insight Pocket City Guidebook to Hanoi and Northern Vietnam, updating and editing Fodor’s Australia travel guidebook and fourth edition Luxe Guide Hanoi, plus articles published in National Geographic Traveler, Asia Spa, DestinAsian magazines and The Australian newspaper.
TOPICS: Hoi An: International Influences Past and Present Ho Chi Minh City: The Fall and Rise of Saigon
- 10 - Michael Eiland Andrew Hardy, PhD American Embassy Ecole Française d’Extrême- Box 52 Orient APO AP, 96546 Hanoi, Vietnam Bangkok, Thailand T : 84.4.822.06.23 T : 662.260.9652 [email protected] [email protected]
Dr. Andrew Hardy specializes in the history of Mike Eiland has had two careers: a 24-year Vietnamese migration and the relations between
career as an officer in the United States Army, the Vietnamese and neighboring peoples in fac u lt y and a 19-year career in the United States Foreign Southeast Asia. Since 2002, he has headed the Service. The majority of both careers was spent Hanoi center of the École française d’Extrême- in Southeast Asia in Special Forces assignments. Orient (EFEO) and worked on collaborative Previously, Eiland had served in Vietnam for 5- projects with Vietnamese specialists in academic 1/2 years during the Vietnam War and was also research and education, as well as in museum in Thailand during that era. Following the war he development at the Museum of Cham Sculpture served in the Office of the Secretary of Defense in Da Nang and the Thanh Long Citadel and was seconded to the State Department as Archaeological site at Ba Dinh, in central Hanoi. political-military advisor in the East Asia Bureau. Dr. Hardy has authored numerous articles and In the latter capacity he was posted to the US three books on Vietnam about migration from Embassy in Thailand as Counselor for Refugee the Red River Delta, national integration in the Affairs during the Indochina refugee crisis of the Central Highlands, and Cham cultural heritage late ’70s and early ’80s. in central Vietnam including: Red Hills: Migrants Following retirement from the Army in 1984, and the State in the Highlands of Vietnam; Eiland served in US Embassies in Bangkok, From Montagnards to Minoritie: What National Jakarta, and Hanoi, with long temporary stints Integration for the Highlanders of Vietnam and in Paris and Manila. He retired from the Foreign Cambodia?; and Peregrinations into Cham Culture. Service at the end of 2003 and resides in In 2005, his book Red Hills was awarded the Harry Bangkok where his wife is now posted with the J. Benda Prize for Non-Fiction on Southeast Asia US Embassy. by the American Asian Studies Association. He is a graduate of the US Military Academy His current writing projects offer “big picture” at West Point. He holds a MA from Georgetown perspectives on the lives of Vietnamese people in University and a PhD from George Washington ancient and contemporary history including: University. • The Vietnamese in Thailand: the Cold War in Southeast Asia at the Grassroots TOPICS: • A Social History of the Vietnam Wars, 1930-1990 Aspects of the History of Da Nang • The Vietnamese “March to the South” a Socio- Environment, Science & Technology Issues in Economic Perspective Vietnam Hardy was educated in England (Cambridge University), France (University of Paris VII) and in Australia (Australian National University), where he defended his doctoral thesis in 1999 on the settlement of the Vietnamese highlands.
TOPIC: The Political Economy of Eaglewood and the Culture of Ancient Champa
- 11 - Bill Hobdell Hans Kemp’s first visit to Asia was in 1986, 16 Grenehurst Park traveling on a one-way ticket to Malaysia. In the Capel, Dorking 18 months that followed, he traveled the East Surrey, England extensively, working as a bartender in Tokyo and RH5 5GA spending three months in Tibet before taking the United Kingdom Trans Siberian Train back to Holland. T : 44.1306.713045 His return home was brief. He became a tour [email protected] guide in China and moved to Hong Kong. There, he became interested in photography and entirely self-taught, he traversed Asia with camera in hand. Bill Hobdell has been a travel photographer for For the next four years, Kemp created images and 30 years. His early career was based in Greece stories that vividly portrayed the vibrant variety creating travel brochures for tour operators. In of cultures and peoples of the continent. His 1992 he was asked to travel throughout Vietnam photos have appeared regularly in international with a writer from the Sunday Times to cover publications including Asiaweek, Newsweek, and the opening up of tourism. The article came out Geographical Magazine. y u lt fac under the title of “Give Peace a Chance.” In 1995 In 1995, Kemp moved to Vietnam, captivated he returned to cover the Northwest tribal areas by the country and its people. Many of his well- for the same newspaper and the result was the known images of Vietnam and its people have feature article, “Tribes and Tribulations.” circled the world as postcards. Today he works on As a travel photographer Hobdell has worked commercial shoots for international companies and in Ghana, Eritrea, Senegal, Gambia, Oman, advertising agencies such as Prudential, Western the United Arab Emirates, Lebanon, China, Union, Caltex, Leo Burnett and McCann-Erickson. Japan, India, Burma, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, the Philippines and Indonesia, as TOPIC: My Tho Trip in the Mekong Off-Site well throughout most of Europe. His work has appeared in many British newspapers including the Telegraph, Evening Standard, Sunday Times and in the Melbourne Age in Australia. Spencer Koerner, MD Hobdell has worked for many travel companies Cedars-Sinai Medical Center specializing in Vietnam and Southeast Asia over 8700 Beverly Blvd. the last 10 years, including Asia World, Asian Suite 210E Journeys, Audley Travel, Vidotours, Exotissimo Los Angeles, California and Trails of Indochina. 90048 USA T : 310.423.7890 TOPICS: [email protected] Visual Overview of Vietnam Discovery Photography in Hanoi Off-Site Spencer K. Koerner, MD is currently Medical Discovery Photography in Hoi An Off-Site Director of International Health and Telemedicine at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center after having served as Medical Director of Pulmonary and Critical Hans Kemp Care Medicine from 1977 to 1996. He is board Apartment C-806 certified in internal medicine and pulmonary Ngo Tat To diseases. He is also a Professor of Medicine at the Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam University of California, Los Angeles, School of T : 84.90384.767 Medicine. While serving as Director of Pulmonary [email protected] Medicine, Dr. Koerner’s research focused on lung transplantation, acute respiratory distress syndrome and primary pulmonary hypertension.
- 12 - Dr. Koerner has written many articles for the African famine, the Rwanda massacres, such peer-reviewed publications as the Journal the Persian Gulf War, the popular uprising in of Heart and Lung Transplantation, Clinical Indonesia in 1998, the anarchy in East Timor in Research, New England Journal of Medicine 1999, the War on Terror in Afghanistan and Iraq, and American Review of Respiratory Disease. and many other major stories of the past three Dr. Koerner is a member of many professional decades. His reporting has been nominated eight organizations, including the American Thoracic times for a Pulitzer Prize. Society, American College of Physicians and Lamb began his career with The Okinawa American College of Chest Physicians. He Morning Star, then moved on to newspapers currently serves on the Board of Directors of the in Las Vegas and Oakland. He worked for the American Lung Association and the American United Press International before joining The Los
Lung Association of California. He is a former Angeles Times in 1970 where he was based in fac u lt y chairman of the board of the American Lung Los Angeles, New York, Washington, Sydney, Association of California and the Los Angeles Nairobi, Cairo, and Hanoi. Affiliate. He is also a former president of the His reporting and research has taken him to 50 California Thoracic Society and the Association of Africa’s 51 countries, to all 21 Arab countries of Pulmonary/Critical Care Program Directors. and to the 10 countries in Southeast Asia. He is In addition, he chaired the American Lung the only newspaperman to cover the Vietnam Association Research Program for five years. War in the South and later open a bureau in Dr. Koerner received his bachelor’s degree peacetime Hanoi. from the University of Connecticut and his Lamb is author of The Africans, The Arabs: medical degree from the Chicago Medical Journeys Beyond the Mirage, and Vietnam, Now: School. He did an internship, residency and a A Reporter Returns, among others. He ended a fellowship in pulmonary medicine at Montefiore 34-year career with The Los Angeles Times in Medical Center in New York. 2004 and now writes, lectures and travels from his base in Alexandria, Virginia. Thanks to IOS, Dr. Koerner is serving as the resident doctor for the Vietnam North-South TOPICS: College. Vietnam Now Is Iraq America’s New Vietnam? TOPIC: Telemedicine
Phuong Le Thi Hoai David Lamb Outreach Worker Wind & Stars Production Clear Path International Group PO Box 29, Dong Ha 312 N. Columbus Street Quang Tri Province, Alexandria, Virginia 22314 Vietnam USA T : 84.53.857718 T : 703.836.1202 www.cpi.org [email protected]
Phuong Le Thi Hoai grew up in a farming David Lamb’s travels as a foreign community, leaving school early in life to assist correspondent for The Los Angeles Times have her parents in the fields. Tragically, Phuong taken him to more than 140 countries and to all was injured by a landmine while working on her seven continents. He has covered the Vietnam parents’ farm in 1993. She was in her teens and War, the Iranian revolution, the overthrow of Idi faced a tough life without her limb. Yet, Phuong’s Amin in Uganda, the Israeli invasion of Lebanon, story is one of courage and determination, as she
- 13 - overcame her disability and went on to become a Lecht received her bachelor of fine arts in art national champion in the Para Olympics. Today, history and interior design. she continues her sporting successes and shares a message of hope for landmine survivors and TOPICS: anyone who faces seemingly insurmountable Contemporary Art in Vietnam obstacles. Insider’s Look at Contemporary Art Off-Site
TOPIC: Portraits of Progress: The Stories of Phuong Jane Lindsay, MD and Chi Department of Medicine, UCSF Executive Health Program Suzanne Lecht 350 Parnassus Avenue, Art Vietnam Suite 307 30 Hang Than San Francisco, California Hanoi, Vietnam 94117-3608 USA y u lt fac T : 844.9272.349 T : 415.353.8646 [email protected] [email protected]. www.vietnamesefineart. edu com Dr. Jane Lindsay is currently an assistant clinical professor at the University of California, Suzanne Lecht was destined to be involved in San Francisco Division of General Internal the arts. She inherited her wanderlust and sense Medicine where she is the Associate Medical of adventure in the arts from her great aunt, who Director of the General Medicine Clinic. was a prolific artist and a great supporter of the Prior to her current position, she worked at arts. Welch Road Internal Medicine Group as one of In 1972, Lecht opened an art studio, Le Plus five partners in an outpatient private practice Unique in Denver, Colorado and imported Italian group and staff physician at Stanford Medical furniture, designed interiors, and showcased Group. Dr. Lindsay also served as an instructor regional artists. She moved to New York in for the Stanford School of Medicine for several 1975 and lived there for 10 years, working as years and has received many awards for her an interior designer and art consultant. In 1983, dedication to health care. Suzanne and her husband moved to Japan and Dr. Lindsay received her bachelor’s degree in 10 years later moved to Hanoi. Over the years microbiology at the University of California at Los they have become well acquainted with the Angeles and her doctorate at the University of wonders and mysteries of the Far East. Pennsylvania School of Medicine. As a Vietnamese art consultant she gives presentations on the contemporary art movement in Vietnam to personal and corporate collectors TOPIC: visiting Vietnam, such as the Asia Society NYC, Hot Tubs and Hypertension: Medical Myths and the Chicago Institute of Art and the American Muddles Museum of Natural History NYC. She also works for the Vietnam Fine Arts Association as an international art consultant helping artists prepare their work for exhibitions abroad. In November 2002, Lecht opened an art gallery, Art Vietnam, in a restored historical traditional tube house in the center of Hanoi.
- 14 - Tien Dong Nguyen, PhD ` Henry Nguyen 2B Thai Phien IDG Ventures Vietnam Hanoi, Vietnam Unit 3, 15th Floor T : 84.4.974.2327 Vincom City Tower B M : 09.83216192 191 Bu Trien St, Hai Ba tiendongnguyen@hotmail. Trung Dist. com Hanoi, Vietnam T : 84.4.2200348 [email protected]. vn Dr. Dong was educated at the University of www.idgvv.com.vn
Hanoi. A specialist in the historical archaeology fac u lt y of Vietnam and Champa, in 2001 he defended Henry Nguyen currently serves as the managing his doctoral thesis on a Cham archaeological general partner of IDG Ventures Vietnam, a site (Cat Tien district, Lam Don province) at the US$100 million venture capital fund focusing Vietnamese Academy of Social Sciences. on start-up and early stage companies in the From 2003 to 2004, he participated in the technology sectors in Vietnam. Prior to joining excavation of the ruins of the ancient Thang IDG Ventures, Henry was the managing director Long citadel at Ba Dinh, discovered on the site in Asia for VITC Telecommunications, a US of the proposed new National Assembly building telecommunications company specializing in IP in central Hanoi. He contributed to the report services and technology. During his time at VITC, which led to the National Assembly project’s the company grew from a start-up to over US$30 subsequent relocation and the site’s preservation million in revenue annually. Prior to joining VITC, as an archaeological park. Henry was an associate at Goldman Sachs in Dr. Dong has been involved in numerous equity research in the technology and enterprise Vietnamese excavations, and worked with a software group based out of New York. variety of foreign institutions, including EFEO, Nguyen received his undergraduate degree from Guangxi Institute of Social Science, Belgium Harvard University where he attended as a Harvard National Museum of the Arts and London National Scholar. He graduated magna cum laude University School of Oriental and African Studies. in 1995 with a bachelor’s degree in the classics. He is currently vice-director of the Department After Harvard, Henry earned his MD and MBA of Ancient Technologies at the Institute of from Northwestern University Medical School and Archaeology. the Kellogg School of Management. During his time at Northwestern, Nguyen collaborated with TOPIC: colleagues to form S2S Medical Publishing, which The Political Economy of Eaglewood and the produces books and learning materials directed Culture of Ancient Champa (with Dr. Andrew towards medical students and physicians-in- Hardy) training. With colleagues from S2S, he helped found Medschool.com, which focuses on developing a distance learning platform for medical students. Nguyen also conducted research on the early signaling proteins of brain development in the neurodevelopment laboratory of Dr. Jeffrey S. Nye.
TOPIC: Vietnam’s Next Generation (Panel Discussion)
- 15 - Sandy Northrup Hung Pham Ba Wind & Stars Production H & J Productions, Ltd. Group 18 Le Truc 312 N. Columbus Street Hanoi, Vietnam Alexandria, Virginia 22314 T : 849.0342.8874 USA [email protected] T : 703.836.1202 [email protected]
Sandy Northrop began producing Hung Pham Ba wears many hats. He is a documentary films as a location manager and much sought after photographer, filmmaker and editor for the National Geographic Society’s also heads a graphic design company. Since acclaimed television specials. From 1976 to graduating university in 1997, he has used 1985, she covered topics from endangered his multiple talents to focus on depicting the elephants and gorillas in Africa to the impact of country, the people, and the spirit of Vietnam. y u lt fac the computer on our lives. His assignments have taken him from China’s In 1987 she went solo producing “How Do You border in the north, to the southernmost tip of the Get To Carnegie Hall?” following pianist Jimmy Mekong Delta, from the Central Highlands to the McKissic from the piano bar in Cannes, France, back alleyways of Hanoi. after he made his debut at Carnegie Hall. This program about the pianist’s quest still airs on TOPIC: PBS. She later turned her attention to American Vietnam’s Next Generation (Panel Discussion) history and produced the historical segments that have become the signature for PBS’s “National Memorial Day” and “A Capitol Fourth” concert spectaculars. Dana Sachs In 1999, “Pete Peterson: Assignment Hanoi”, a Department of English one-hour program on Douglas “Pete” Peterson, a University of North Carolina former POW and the first American Ambassador at Wilmington to Vietnam since the war, premiered nationally 601 South College Road on PBS. Northrop produced, directed, and Wilmington, North Carolina edited the program, and took on the role of 28403 USA cinematographer. “Vietnam Passage: Journeys T : 84.98.865.2755 from War to Peace,” the second program in her [email protected] Vietnam trilogy, documented the Vietnamese perspective on the war and its aftermath. The Dana Sachs made her first visit to Vietnam final program, “Vietnam: The Next Generation,” in 1990 and began to write about it soon after. finishes the saga by following six Vietnamese Her book The House on Dream Street: Memoir under 30 and understanding their dreams for of an American Woman in Vietnam, describes themselves and their country. her experiences living and working in Hanoi in Northrop received her bachelor’s degree the 1990s, a period during which the country in photography in 1969 from the University of began to open to the West. In 2003, with Michigan and in 1972 received a master’s in Nguyet Cam Nguyen and Mai Bui Hoai, she communication. published Two Cakes Fit for a King: Folktales from Vietnam. Sachs’ translations of contemporary TOPICS: Vietnamese literature have been published Vietnam’s Next Generation (Panel Discussion) widely, and her articles and essays about Portraits of Progress: The Stories of Phuong and Chi - 16 - Vietnam have appeared in many publications, Vice Minister Le Van including National Geographic, The Asian Wall Bang Street Journal, and The Far Eastern Economic Ministry of Foreign Affairs Review. Her first novel, If You Lived Here, will be Socialist Republic of published next year. Vietnam Hanoi, Vietnam TOPIC: Assistant: Ho Huong Understanding Vietnam Through its Language Giang huonggiangho@yahoo. com www.mofa.gov.vn
Chi Tran Hong fac u lt y Project Coordinator Le Van Bang has served as Vietnam’s Clear Path International Vice Minister of Foreign Affairs since 2002. PO Box 29, Dong Ha Throughout his diplomatic career, he has been Quang Tri Province, credited with greatly improving the fractious Vietnam relations between Vietnam and the United States T : 84.53.857718 following the war between both countries. [email protected] In 1995, he became the first Ambassador www.cpi.org to the US from Vietnam after both countries re- established diplomatic relations, working closely Chi Tran Hong has devoted his career to with his counterpart from the US, Ambassador reinventing the parts of Vietnam that most people Douglas “Pete” Peterson. Prior to that position, hope never to venture into. Since 2000, Chi has he held numerous diplomatic appointments worked for Clear Path International in clearing including Assistant Minister of Foreign Affairs, sites marred by hidden land mines, so that they Acting Chief of the Vietnamese Permanent can be developed and enjoyed by Vietnamese Mission to the UN, and Director General of the communities. His personal expertise is in project Department of the Americas for the Ministry of coordination and translation, such as his work Foreign Affairs. with the Peace Trees Vietnam/UXB International Vice Minister Le Van Bang has witnessed UXO Clearance Project which cleared a 13- a great deal of change in his country since his hectare site for redevelopment, and a similar career officially began as an “Expert” in the project in Dong Ha that cleared a 44-hectare site. Ministry of Foreign Affairs implementing the Prior to joining Clear Path, Chi worked as a tour Paris Agreement. We are delighted to have the guide at Dong Ha DMZ Tour Office, where he opportunity to discuss with the Vice Minister provided interpretation of historic battlefields in the contemporary foreign policy issues facing Quang Tri province and the vicinity. From 1992 Vietnam today. to 1994, Chi served in the Vietnamese military. TOPIC: TOPIC: Q&A Session Portraits of Progress: The Stories of Phuong and Chi
- 17 - Peter Zinoman, PhD University of California, Berkeley History Department 2313 Dwinelle Hall Berkeley, California 94702 USA T : 510.642.2234 [email protected]
Dr. Peter Zinoman has been an associate professor of history and Southeast Asian studies at the University of California Berkeley since 1996. In addition, he has been the director of the Center for Southeast Asian Studies at UC Berkeley since 2002. Dr. Zinoman has contributed numerous articles on modern Vietnamese history and literature to scholarly journals and has also published a number of books. His recent books include The Colonial Bastille: A History of Imprisonment in Vietnam 1862-1940, which won the 2002 John Fairbank Prize for best book in East Asian History and the 2003 Harry Benda Prize for best book in Southeast Asian Studies; as well as Dumb Luck: A Novel by Vu Trong Phung which was selected by the Los Angeles Times Sunday Book Review as one of the best books of 2003. Dr. Zinoman received his BA magna cum laude from the department of history of Tufts University, his MA from the department of history of Cornell University, and his PhD in Southeast Asian history from Cornell University.
TOPICS: History of Indochina Eastern Religions 101 Hue Off-Site
- 18 - Socials
Welcome Dinner Gentlemen: Long pants, khakis, short-sleeved Friday, 17 March polo shirt or lightweight long- or 7:00 - 10:00pm short-sleeved shirt. socials
The historic Metropole Hotel has welcomed Venue: Hanoi Opera House, Hanoi the likes of Graham Greene when he wrote the Quiet American, Jane Fonda when she made Seating: Assigned her controversial broadcasts to the US troops, French President Jacques Chirac for a recent official visit – and it now welcomes CEO. On our Vietnam History Museum opening night, this French colonial gem eases Sunday, 19 March you into the hustle and bustle of Vietnam. 6:30 - 9:30pm
What to Wear: Casual From prehistoric tools to dynastic thrones to a bust of Uncle Ho, the Vietnam History Museum Ladies: Casual/capri pants or Bermuda showcases artifacts that mark the country’s shorts (no short shorts), short- historical developments. sleeve or sleeveless tops, long- sleeve over shirt What to Wear: Dressy Casual Gentlemen: Long pants or Bermuda shorts, khakis, short-sleeves polo shirts, Ladies: Dress, skirt, pants or lightweight short or long- Gentlemen: Long pants, khakis, short-sleeved sleeve shirts polo shirt or lightweight long- or short-sleeve shirt Venue: Hanoi Sofitel Metropole Hotel 5 Ngo Quyen Street, Hanoi Venue: Vietnam History Museum, No 1, Trang Tien Street, Hanoi Seating: Open (First Timers and their hosts are Seating: Lottery encouraged to sit together.)
Social Surprise Evening at the Hanoi Opera House Monday, 20 March Saturday, 18 March 8:30 - 10:00pm 7:00 - 10:00pm After a long day exploring Halong Bay, enjoy Hanoi is Vietnam’s cultural capital. The the beautiful serenity of China Beach and Vietnamese highly value the performing arts prepare for a perfectly timed social surprise. and the Hanoi Opera House, a jewel of French colonial architecture which has been restored What to Wear: Casual to its original splendor. The evening will begin with cocktails and follow with a performance of Ladies: Casual/capri pants or Bermuda orchestra, dance, song, and then dinner. This shorts (no short shorts), short- concert is especially orchestrated for CEO. sleeve or sleeveless tops, long- sleeve over shirt What to Wear: Dressy Casual Gentlemen: Long pants or Bermuda shorts, khakis, short sleeves polo shirts, Ladies: Dress, skirt, pants or lightweight short- or long- sleeve shirts - 31 - Venue: Furama Hotel What to Wear: Very Casual, Creative Attire 68 Ho Xuan Huong Street China Beach, Danang Ladies: Tie dye T-shirts, shorts, hippie accessories Seating: Open Gentlemen: Tie dye T-shirts, shorts, hippie accessories socials Venue: Furama Hotel By the Light of the Moon 68 Ho Xuan Huong Street Tuesday, 21 March China Beach 6:30 - 9:30pm Seating: Lottery For several centuries, Hoi An was one of the most important trading ports in Southeast Asia and an important center of cultural exchange between east and west. After exploring this Free Night charming UNESCO World Heritage Site on foot, Thursday, 23 March you may cruise the Thu Bon River to dine along the waterfront at the Full Moon Towns Restaurant. Enjoy a night on your own in Ho Chi Minh City. Vietnam’s business epicenter offers cuisine from What to Wear: Very Casual all over the world. Restaurant recommendations are listed starting on page 41 as well as in your Ladies: Casual/capri pants or Bermuda Luxe Guide. shorts (no short shorts), short- sleeve or sleeveless tops, long sleeve over shirt Gentlemen: Long pants or Bermuda shorts, Miss Saigon Social khakis, short sleeves polo shirts, Friday, 24 March or lightweight short- or long- 6:30 - 9:30pm sleeve shirts Tonight will be the icing on your Vietnamese Venue: Full Moon Towns Restaurant, cake, as you experience some sophisticated Hoi An surprises of Saigon.
Seating: Open What to Wear: Dressy Casual
Ladies: Dress, skirt, pants suit Gentlemen: Long pants, khakis, short-sleeved “Reflections Of” China Beach Party polo shirt or lightweight long- or Wednesday, 22 March short-sleeved shirt 7:00 - 10:00pm Venue: Sheraton Saigon Rooftop China Beach was famous as a rest and 88 Dong Khoi Street, District 1 recreation spot for the GIs during the American- Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam War. Remember daily news updates on the Vietnam War? Tonight you can rev it up, Seating: Assigned dance in the sand and reflect on the ’60s.
- 32 - OFF-SITES
HANOI The Army Museum traces recent Vietnamese Old Quarter Walking Tour with Lunch military history with an emphasis on the conflicts Saturday, 18 March against the French and US. In addition to an Sunday, 19 March interesting diorama on the battle of Dien Bien 1:00pm - 4:45pm Phu, the museum features fascinating military equipment display — a true military aficionado’s The adventurous will begin this off-site with museum. lunch at the popular restaurant Cha Ca La Vong, a 104-year-old rickety Hanoi institution. You Min/Max: 6/18 need to be hearty for this lunch – but don’t let Walking Level: Minimal first impressions prevent you from a wonderfully authentic Hanoi tradition! off The house specialty (and only dish on the - sites menu) is truly a culinary experience – a turmeric- HANOI dusted white fish sautéed tableside with fresh dill, An Insider’s Look at Vietnamese Art basil, peanuts, cilantro, scallions and chili sauce. Saturday, 18 March Noodles are the perfect accompaniment. Sunday, 19 March After lunch, explore Hanoi’s magical and 2:00pm - 5:00pm historic Old Quarter where 36 streets represent the 36 guilds established in the 13th century. The arts in Vietnam have a long and illustrious Each street was dedicated to a particular craft or history, and no one can better introduce this product (e.g., Hang Gai, which translates as Silk genre than College faculty member Suzanne Street sold silks). Today, the street name may Lecht. Living and working in Asia since 1982 not correspond to what is sold on it, but as those and committed to the arts worldwide, Ms. in the know understand, you can find anything Lecht is recognized as a leading authority on in the Old Quarter, from a gravestone to silk contemporary art in Vietnam. In her education pajamas. The area is known for the very narrow session, she will give an overview of the “tunnel” houses that line the streets. Bring e a contemporary art scene in Vietnam. Take camera with you for this delightful afternoon! advantage of this off-site so you can see, through her expert eyes, just how artistically robust is Note: Please do not wear light colored clothing the cultural capital of Vietnam. We’ll start at Ms. as oils from the food may splatter. Lecht’s own gallery, ArtVietnam, where you will meet three exhibited artists and discover what is Min/Max: 6/24 “au courant” in Vietnam. Walking Level: Moderate For information on Suzanne Lecht, visit www.vietnamesefineart.com HANOI Hanoi Hilton and Military Museum Saturday, 18 March Min/Max: 2/20 Sunday, 19 March Walking Level: Minimal 2:00pm - 4:30pm
Hoa Lo Prison Museum is all that remains of the former Hoa Lo Prison or Hanoi Hilton (a nickname created by US POWs) which imprisoned downed US airmen. Among many others, US Senator John McCain was imprisoned here. - 33 - HANOI and his informed guides will explore with you Temple of Literature and Ho Chi the collections of art, clothing, costume, and everyday objects gathered from all over Vietnam. Minh House Various Vietnamese houses have been re- Saturday, 18 March constructed on the grounds, giving a fascinating Sunday, 19 March insight into how the Vietnamese lived. Displays 2:00 - 5:00pm are labeled in Vietnamese, French and English. For those who wish for an in-depth historical Note: Directly following this off-site, Mark perspective on Vietnam and its historic Rapoport, the CEO resource accompanying you structures, author and Vietnam scholar Lady on your tour of the museum, will invite you to visit Borton will make both come to life and impress his gallery, 54 Traditions. Pieces from Mark’s the strong values of Ho Chi Minh and the gallery have been featured at the Museum of Vietnamese. Natural History and the University Museums of Founded in 1070, the Temple of Literature - sites Harvard, Yale, Brown and Boston. If you would honored scholars and is Vietnam’s first university. like to know more about 54 Traditions, visit off Sons of the mandarins were educated here and www.54traditions.com it is a beautiful example of traditional Vietnamese architecture. Inside the third enclosure are 82 Min/Max: 6/24 stelae, considered the most precious artifacts Walking Level: Minimal of the temple, which record the dates of examination and those awarded doctorates. Ho Chi Minh’s stilt house is a few minutes by van from the Temple of Literature. “Uncle Ho” HANOI lived in this simple house between 1958 and 1969. It is an example of a traditional stilt house Highlights of Hanoi built by some of the many ethnic minorities of Saturday, 18 March Vietnam. There are other buildings of interest Sunday, 19 March around Ba Dinh Square (where Ho’s house is 2:00 - 5:30pm located) and Lady Borton will comment on some of these as well. If you want a comprehensive overview of Hanoi, join us for this “in brief” city tour. We will Min/Max: 2/12 see reminders of Vietnam’s continuous wars with Walking Level: Moderate a visit to Hoa Lo Prison, aka. the Hanoi Hilton, before moving to the Temple of Literature. The Temple of Literature, created as a testament to man’s ingenuity and the redemption of HANOI knowledge, is Vietnam’s first university and was founded in 1070. The university is a beautiful Vietnam’s Museum of Ethnology example – not only of traditional Vietnamese Saturday, 18 March architecture – but also of the Vietnamese Sunday, 19 March emphasis on the harmonic confluence of 2:00 - 5:00pm education and art. We will also see Ho Chi Minh’s stilt house in Vietnam’s 2,000 year history is a story of rich Ba Dinh Square. Ho Chi Minh kept his residence ethnicities such as the Viets, Chinese, Khmers, here from 1958 to 1969, and the Ho Chi Minh Cham, as well as many others. This beautifully Mausoleum is located on the same square. We designed museum is worth your time if you conclude with a visit to the historic and amazing want a greater understanding of Vietnam’s Old Quarter and wander in its maze of 36 streets, diverse culture. Resource Mark Rapoport each representing a guild that sold specific
- 34 - merchandise – a must for any highlights tour. No Vietnam, Alan wowed audiences as a pop star matter your photographic experience, bring your and ran a successful real estate business. These camera and capture these highlights of Hanoi. experiences prepared her for launching her own design company in 1996, which she branded, Min/Max: 6/60 Mosaique. Mosaique is turning heads around Walking Level: Minimal the world with its bold interpretations of home accessories that inspire contemporary living. Alan will speak to you during an education session this morning, and invites you to her HANOI boutique to further discuss Vietnam’s emerging Discovery Photography style. Fashion and home design are two of Sunday, 19 March Vietnam’s major exports and the United States is off 6:00 - 7:30am the largest importer of Vietnamese products. No - sites 1:45-3:30pm matter where you live, you will be surprised how many products have a “Made in Vietnam” label Lead by professional photographer Bill Hobdell attached. who will be on hand to assist, critique and comment, this off-site is open to shutterbugs who Min/Max: 6/18 shoot with film or digital images. In addition to a Walking Level: Minimal lecture, you will be provided hands-on instruction on how to best capture a scene. Morning Option: A short walk takes you to HANOI the nearby shore of Hoan Kiem Lake where you Halong Bay will have the opportunity to photograph women Monday, 20 March dressed to perform their daily Tai Chi. The lake is 7:00am - 5:50pm a mystical area and it will set a beautiful scene, and you may recognize The Turtle Tower (Thap Note: Hand luggage (which cannot exceed 15 Rua) set in the middle of the lake and often seen pounds) MUST be carried during the cruise as it in photographs of Hanoi. cannot be left in your van. Your checked luggage Afternoon Option: This shoot features a scenic for our charter flight to Danang will be collected location within Hanoi. Sunday night and you will not have access to it until you arrive in Danang. Min/Max: 2/12 Walking Level: Minimal Designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1994, Halong Bay is called the Bay of the Descending Dragon. Fishermen in ancient times reported sightings of dragons in these waters, HANOI which created thousands of limestone outcrops Silk Design with Alan! by the lashings of their tails. Today, with 3,000 Sunday, 19 March limestone islands rising out of the emerald waters 2:00 - 4:00pm of the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay remains a mystical place and the most photographed in Meet one of the brightest rising stars in Vietnam. Most travelers to Vietnam agree Halong Vietnam, featured in faculty member Sandy Bay is a must, so we have included a spectacular Northrop’s documentary. Alan Duong is a new trip there. However, it will be a bit arduous: face in the Vietnamese fashion and home décor market. Alan and her family left Vietnam in the 1980s for Hong Kong. Upon her return to
- 35 - 7:00am - Depart for Halong Bay by minivan. DANANG During the 2 1/2 hour drive (with a rest stop), Leisure Activities at The Furama you will witness beautiful rural landscapes, one of your few opportunities to do so. Resort Tuesday, 21 March Wednesday, 22 March 10:30am-3:30pm - Small groups will each cruise aboard a beautiful, timeless Chinese- You may choose to enjoy your free time at style junk, relaxing and enjoying the scenery the Furama Resort and when you do you will as you lunch. Photograph floating fishing quickly see why this area was used for recreation villages and innumerable sights as we cruise. during the American War. The Furama Resort You will have an opportunity to kayak on offers water sports, tennis, spa services, etc., and these tranquil waters as well as go on cave reservations cannot be taken in advance. tours. Note: The resort has tennis rackets. - sites 3:45-5:50pm - Journey to Hai Phong via van to meet the rest of the group and board our off charter plane to Danang. DANANG Min/Max: 20/80 Walking Level: Minimal Marble Mountain Exercise Walk Tuesday, 21 March Wednesday, 22 March 6:00 - 7:30am HANOI Free Morning See the most breathtaking views and get exercise with an early morning visit to the Marble Monday, 20 March Mountain (representing the five elements – water, 8:00am - 3:30pm wood, fire, metal, and earth) near Danang. Thuy Son (water) is the largest and most famous and Note: Hand luggage (which cannot exceed contains a number of caves where Buddhist 15 pounds) MUST be carried all day today. Your retreats have been built. During the American checked luggage for our charter flight to Danang War, one cave was used by the Viet Cong as a will be collected Sunday night and you will not field hospital. There is also a Buddhist monastery have access to it until you arrive in Danang. and several pagodas, and the view at the top is spectacular. If you have not had enough time to explore The mountain is traversed by climbing several Hanoi, take this morning to visit art galleries, silk flights of uneven marble stairs separated by shops, try a trendy restaurant or wander the Old landings, which provide respite during the Quarter on your own. If you choose to spend free ascent. time in Hanoi, you will depart the city promptly at 3:30pm and meet the group in Hai Phong at Note: Though there is much to see and learn, 5:30pm for the charter flight to Danang. this off-site does not allow in-depth discovery. If Lunch will not be provided today. you are interested in learning more consider the Wednesday afternoon Marble Mountain off-site.
Min/Max: 6/80 Walking Level: Heavy
- 36 - DANANG Thuy, will be ready to measure and help you Discovery Photography in Hoi An select fabrics for copies or new designs. Items Tuesday, 21 March are often ready the next day or can be sent to 7:00am - 9:30am you in Ho Chi Minh City or to your home. Allow at least an hour in the shop for measuring and Join travel photographer Bill Hobdell to fabric selection. Bring items to copy, photos of capture the colorful sites and narrow alleyways of fashions or select from pattern books! The shop Hoi An. Hoi An, another of Vietnam’s UNESCO has mannequins with new designs that can be World Heritage Sites, is a charming 15th century copied, so let your imagination soar on this very riverside town; one of Southeast Asia’s oldest special experience. ports. After dodging motorbikes in Hanoi, you’ll find Hoi An a pleasant respite. Note: Dinner on Tuesday, 21 March will be at off You will take a boat ride along the riverfront to the Full Moon Towns Restaurant in Hoi An, Once - sites really capture the essence of the town from the you depart for Hoi An, you will remain there until water. The local fishing boats will arrive and you the conclusion of dinner. will see the frantic fish market come to life. This off-site is open to shutterbugs who shoot with film Min/Max: 6/80 or digital cameras. Walking Level: Minimal
Min/Max: 2/6 Walking Level: Moderate DANANG Hue - UNESCO World Heritage Site Wednesday, 22 March DANANG 7:30am - 5:30pm Walk and Shop: Shopping and Silk Capital of the Nguyen kings, Vietnam’s last Tailoring ruling dynasty, Hue is situated at the “waist” of Tuesday, 21 March this long, thin country and is a fascinating melting 2:00 - 5:00pm pot of influences from north and south and has traces of its glorious history everywhere. Wednesday, 22 March Though a two-hour journey, the route from 8:00 - 11:30am Danang to Hue is one of the loveliest in Vietnam. The Imperial Citadel, which served as Vietnam’s Vans will depart every 30 minutes on the half capital until 1945, is our first stop. At its entrance hour. The drive is approximately 30 minutes. is the “Belvedere of the Five Phoenixes” where the emperor appeared on important occasions Hoi An, another of Vietnam’s UNESCO World and where the last emperor abdicated to Ho Chi Heritage Sites, is a charming 15th century Minh’s Revolutionary Government in 1945. riverside town and one of Southeast Asia’s oldest Inside the Citadel is the Thai Hoa Palace used ports. After dodging motorbikes in Hanoi, you’ll by Mandarins to prepare for court ceremonies. find Hoi An a respite - many streets in the town The halls form a courtyard, known as the center are open only to pedestrians! “Forbidden Purple City.” The name conjures up After visiting its historical sites - Japanese images of grand palaces seen in Beijing. It takes bridge, temple and local home - wander through a bit of imagination to picture the buildings that the lovely and piquant art galleries, and shops once occupied what is now a grassy expanse. offering items ranging from antiques to silk What wasn’t destroyed by a fire in 1947 was lanterns, to crafts and of course, silk tailoring. bombed in the 1968 Tet Offensive. The staff of one of these tailoring shops, Thu
- 37 - Next we journey by boat to Thien Mu Pagoda, DANANG constructed by Emperor Thieu Tri in 1844. While Cham Ruins at My Son the structure was completed during the 19th Wednesday, 22 March century, Thien Mu began as a religious center 8:00am - 12:30pm during the 1600s. Comprised of seven levels, the pagoda is over 20 meters tall. Legend has My Son is Vietnam’s most important Cham it that each of the seven levels had a solid gold site and was named a World Heritage Site by Buddha that were stolen under mysterious UNESCO in 2000. The Kingdom of Champa circumstances. Behind the pagoda are living flourished from the 2nd to the 15th centuries quarters for the monks and novices. and My Son is Champa’s counterpart to other After lunch, we conclude our visit in Hue at the important cities in Southeast Asia’s Indian- Tu Duc Mausoleum along the Perfume River. The influenced civilizations, such as Angkor in tomb was constructed for the Emperor in 1864. Cambodia. Because the region was heavily mined Relax and reflect as you journey back to the during the American War, it is highly advised that - sites Furama Resort. visitors stay on the marked paths. off Min/Max: 6/80 Note: Though the drive is lengthy, 1½-2 hours, Walking Level: Minimal it is virtually all on good roads and in picturesque countryside. You will be at My Son for about an hour-and-a-half, which is sufficient time to explore. A shorter alternative to consider is the Museum of DANANG Cham Culture: In Depth Off-site Marble Mountain: In-Depth Wednesday, 22 March Min/Max: 6/36 8:00 - 11:00am Walking Level: Heavy
For anyone interested in military history, this off-site will be of intense interest. You will DANANG be accompanied by experts and engage in Miss Vy’s Cooking Class discussions about the mountain’s role in the Wednesday, 22 March American War. Caverns, housing a series of 8:30am - 2:00pm shrines dedicated to Buddha and Confucius, served as a Viet Cong hospital during the 1968 Vietnamese cuisine is becoming increasingly Tet Offensive, as well as a Viet Cong guerilla popular on palates worldwide, as it’s an amalgam base. Today the area has reverted to its more of many influences – Chinese, French, Indian spiritual roots, revealing enormous, beautiful and Thai. This morning you can learn about the pagodas and a scenic grotto on top. artistry and intense flavors of Central Vietnamese The mountain is traversed by climbing several food in an experiential cooking class with Hoi flights of uneven marble stairs separated by An native Miss Vy. Start by gathering your landings, which provide respite during the ingredients at the local market where you can find ascent. The surrounding village features marble everything from herbs to traditional Vietnamese carvings and you will see this art being created. noodles known as Coa Lau. Next gather in Miss Vy’s kitchen and follow along while you prepare Note: Shorter off-sites to Marble Mountain are some typical Central Vietnamese dishes. Finally, offered Tuesday and Wednesday mornings. sample what you made over lunch and enjoy the yin and yang of Vietnamese cookery. Bon appetit! Min/Max: 6/24 Walking Level: Heavy Min/Max: 10/15 Walking Level: Minimal - 38 - DANANG We disembark and take a tour of Quoi An fruit Museum of Cham Culture: In-Depth orchard, see kilns used to dry fruit and tour a Wednesday, 22 March coconut craft home. You may take a horse-drawn 10:00am - 12:00pm carriage ride along the village road and visit the primary school. We will sample Mekong Delta The combined philosophies and religious fruit from Phong Phu Garden while listening to ideologies of Buddhism and Hinduism, as well local traditional music. as Islam, influenced the Cham culture, which Finally we will explore the water palm canal by was prevalent in the second century along row boat, then board the cruise boat for lunch the coast of central Vietnam. The kings of and our journey home. Champa adopted Indian-type names and were worshipped as god-kings. The Chams carved Note: The transfer time to and from the Mekong off three dimensional sandstone figures that were Delta is about 2 hours each way. - sites displayed on pedestals so as to be visible from every vantage point. Min/Max: 6/80 Built in 1926, the Museum of Cham Culture Walking Level: Minimal was established by the French. Today it houses the finest Cham sculpture in the world. This off- site will dovetail with the Cham education topics and is designed for museum buffs. HO CHI MINH CITY Cu Chi Tunnels Min/Max: 6/30 Friday, 24 March Walking Level: Minimal 9:00am - 3:00pm
There is little evidence today of the intense fighting that occurred in this region during the HO CHI MINH CITY American War. The tunnels are the remains of Mekong Delta an approximately 200km system started in the Friday, 24 March French War by the Viet Minh, who honeycombed 7:00am - 4:15pm the area around Cu Chi. At the height of the American War, the Cu Chi tunnels were home The Mekong Delta is the southernmost region to more than 10,000 Viet Cong troops and of Vietnam and has been formed over centuries reached from Saigon to the Cambodian border. by silt deposits from the Mekong River (even Unknowingly, Americans established a base right today, deposits add as much as 79 meters to above part of the tunnel system. the shoreline). This river is so large it has two Experience this amazing museum and see daily tides. Known as Vietnam’s rice basket, the what life was like for those who built and fought Delta produces enough rice to feed the entire from this complex often using guerilla warfare Vietnamese population with a large surplus. tactics. Journey first by minivan to My Tho, where The first level of the tunnels is not difficult to on a boat cruise you will experience the delta get to, but the second level is very small and dark “up close and personal,” passing rice barges, (a woman who is 5’3”, 125 pounds would barely villages, houseboats and floating markets fit on her hands and knees). It is not for the faint – visually, an incredible experience! of heart or claustrophobic. Your guide will have a small flashlight, but as he rounds corners, it can become completely dark!
- 39 - Whether you go to the second level or remain on the first, this is an incredible experience and an engineering wonder. We will stop for lunch at the Ben Nay Restaurant prior to returning to Ho Chi Minh City.
Note: The transfer time to and from the Cu Chi Tunnels is approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes.
Min/Max: 6/36 Walking Level: Minimal - sites off
- 40 - Shopping & dining
Vietnam is full of surprises. The shopping and Vine dining experiences do not disappoint. These A must if you are interested in the wine scene tried recommendations and the LUXE City in Vietnam. CEO resource, Henry Nguyen, Guide book given to you highlights shops and has opened this wine bar, café and boutique. restaurants you might like to explore. Western food is available as well as a great wine Vietnam is growing fast and offering great selection, which he imports. shopping and dining opportunities, so we 1A, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District encourage you to be adventurous and find your own gems. Shopping
HANOI 54 Traditions Dining Cultural objects representing Vietnam’s 54 cultures Bobby Chinn’s 30 Hang Bun Modern ambience, fusion type food 1 Ba Trieu Street (by Hoan Kiem Lake) Bui Mai Hien Distinctive contemporary lacquer paintings. Mai Green Tangerine Hien is one of Vietnam’s finest lacquer artists. Excellent European cuisine with Vietnamese 99 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street spices s h op / dine 48 Hang Be Chi Vang Custom-made sheets and pillowcases Indochine 17 Trang Tien Street Vietnamese cuisine 16 Nam Ngu Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Ipa-Nima Wonderful selection of handmade handbags Le Tonkin 59G Hai Ba Trung Street Vietnamese cuisine prepared and served in an old French villa Jade Bags 14 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem Dist Selection of designer copies 9A Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem District Seasons of Hanoi Excellent Vietnamese food and ambience. Same Khai Silk owner as Wild Rice and Moon River. Excellent quality and design 95B Quan Thanh 96 Hang Gai Street
Wild Lotus Minh Tam Lacquer Elegant, contemporary Asian food and ambiance. Excellent quality and selection of laquer Highly recommended. 2 Hang Bong Street 55A Nguyen Du Str., Ha Noi Mosaique Wild Rice Owned by Alan Duong and featuring home decor Beautiful, cosmopolitan atmosphere with terrific 12 Hoa Ma Asian fusion cuisine. 6 Ngo Thi Nham Street, Hanoi Nguyen Freres Antiques, lacquer ware 9 Dinh Street
- 41 - Small Village Ho Chi Minh City Small, but good selection of crafts Dining 46 Hang Be (next to Green Tangerine restaurant) AnVien Tan My Excellent Vietnamese food and wine; beautiful art Silk and embroidery 178A Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1 66 Hang Gai Street Le Bordeaux Viet Hien The place to gorge yourself on scallop ravioli and Interior accessories and furniture located in Norwegian salmon, and spend upwards of US$50 an old theater. It’s worth the trip just to see the per person, without wine. interior. F7-F8, Duong D2, Binh Thanh District 8B Tahien, Hoan Kiem District Lemongrass Small venue, but authentic Vietnamese dining experience Danang and Hoi An 4 Nguyen Thiep, District 1 Dining Mandarin Vietnamese dining in traditional style Brothers Café 11A Ngo Van Nam, District 1 One of several restaurants owned by Khai, owner of Khai silk. Great riverside setting. Thuan Tuan 27 Phan Boi Chau Street in Hoi An Serving specialities mechouis – try the roast leg of lamb or French onion soup Hoi An Patisserie 67-71 Duong Hoang Sa, Dakao Ward, District 1 s h op / dine The pastries are excellent if you need a little “pick me up”. 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street in Hoi An Shopping
Shopping AA Deco Carries a wide variety of furniture and decorative A Dong Silk accessories An excellent tailoring shop, small but very good. 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, District 1 40 Le Loi Street in Hoi An 33 Phung Khac Khoan, District 1
Thu Thuy Appeal An excellent selection of silk fabrics and designs; Lacquer and crackle ware the tailoring is excellent. 41 Ton That Thiep Street 60 Le Loi Street in Hoi An Authentique Interiors Celadon ware 6 Dong Khoi Street
Celadon Green Great gifts (most are green 51 Ton That Thiep, District 1
- 42 - [Chle] Small chic clothing shop Song 4B2 Ngo Van Nam, District 1 Linen caftans and embroidered silk pillows 76D Le Thanh Ton Street Gaya Description: hand painted lacquerware and SXS stunning stilettos Vietnamese designer gowns and footware 39 Thon That Thiep Street 87 Pasteur Sreet
Khai Silk Sy Hoang Excellent quality and design Skilled tailor who makes traditional pieces from Location in the Sheraton finely woven silks 107 Dong Khoi Street, District 1 36-38 Ly Tu Trong Street
Kim Phuong Thaca Great gifs for babies and young children Pop-influenced fashion items 110 Nguyen Hue, District 1 23 Dong Khoi St. 106 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Minh Khoa This designer will present his designs during the Thiep College. Jand-embroidered linens, home accessories and 48 Nguyen Hue Street, District 1 children’s smocked clothing 4-6 Le Loi Street, Ward 1
Mosaique s h op / dine Contemporary housewares and fashion, owned Zen Plaza by Alan Duong, a young designer and a College Trend setting department store resource. 54-56 Nguyen Trai 98 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1
Ninh Khuong Shop Linens and baby clothes 40 Le Loi, District 1
Orchids Children’s and women’s clothing as well as home linens 84-86 Le Loi St, District 1
Saigon Square Collection of shops under one roof – great items, bargaining is a must 94 Hai Ba Trung Street in District 1
- 43 - destination guide Sources: CIA World Fact Book and Insight Guides Vietnam.
Cultural Diversity Landscape Vietnam’s cultural makeup is as diverse as Vietnam’s founding myth tells of a sea its topography. The population is divided into dragon, Lac Long Quan, who fell in love with the 54 ethnic groups, most of them concentrated mountain fairy Au Co. Together the pair had 100 in the central and northern highlands. The Kinh sons, half of whom followed their father to the ethnic majority, who comprise 84 percent of the coast and half of whom joined their mother in the population, is largely found in the lowlands. highlands. These magical children are held as Kinh or Viet culture arose in Vietnam’s the forefathers of the Vietnamese people. northern Red River delta, where people’s way This myth holds a clue to Vietnam’s landscape of life revolved around the cultivation of wet and cultural identity. A long, skinny country rice. Visitors to this area will find gated, farming curled around the South China Sea, Vietnam villages where people still celebrate their local has 3,450km of coastline and a central spine pagoda festivals and pay tribute to their village of mountains, including the highest peak in founders’ and tutelary gods. mainland Southeast Asia, Mount Fansipan. Other major ethnic groups include the Vietnam’s shape is often compared to two rice H’mong, Dao, Thai and Cham. Descended baskets on a shoulder pole. The narrow band from the people who founded the Indianized of lowland deserts and steep mountains in the Kingdom of Champa in what is now central centre give way to broad expanses of river deltas Vietnam, the Cham have retained their own in the north and south. Having begun its journey religion, customs and handicrafts, including the in Tibet, the Mekong River divides into nine weaving of colourful brocade cloth. Today, Cham tributaries in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, giving this communities are scattered throughout central fertile region its Vietnamese name of Cuu Long, Vietnam and the Mekong Delta. or ‘Nine Dragons’. The northern Red River Delta, The best place to appreciate Vietnam’s meanwhile, is the cradle of Vietnamese culture, stunning cultural diversity is in its mountainous and villages in this area retain their traditional northeast. Highland markets draw people from architecture and traditions. dozens of ethnic groups, who continue to Visitors are astonished by Vietnam’s produce and wear traditional clothing decorated geographic diversity. You’ll find remote mountain with embroidery, batik-prints, and beads. Having markets frequented by ethnic minority peoples, had minimal contact with the outside world, these vibrant cafés and art galleries in the cities, serene people speak their own languages, observe their views of emerald paddy fields in the lowlands, own religious festivals, and live much as they and endless stretches of unspoiled beaches. have for generations.
destination Most Vietnamese people observe a form of Buddhism that incorporates Confucianism and Taoism. About eight percent of the population is Population Catholic. 83,535,576 (July 2005). Vietnam’s population is very young, with a quarter below the age of 14:
0-14 years: 27.9% 15-64 years: 66.4% 65 years and over: 5.8%
- 44 - History Government
In 938 A.D. the Vietnamese put an end to Vietnam is a socialist republic ruled by the China’s occupation of the Red River Delta, Vietnamese Communist Party since the fall of bringing to an end colonial rule that had started Saigon in 1975, and the country’s subsequent in the first century B.C. That the Vietnamese imposed reunification in 1976. Vietnam’s managed to cling to their cultural identity during domestic policy is shaped by the party and its a thousand years of occupation says much about Secretary General. The Prime Minister, Phan their tenacity—a lesson that has been re-taught Van Khai, presides over drafting day to day in more recent times. governing. The President, Tran Duc Luong, From their cradle in the northern Red River oversees state policy, the military and internal Delta, the Viet moved south, absorbing the police. Kingdom of Champa in what is now central The government is nominated by the Vietnam in the 15th century. The official founding National Assembly, proposed by the party and of Saigon (now renamed Ho Chi Minh City) took theoretically elected by the people. place only some three centuries ago. The republic is divided into 53 administrative French forces imposed colonial rule on areas: three cities – Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam in 1883, starting an era of anti- Hai Phong – and 50 provinces. colonial resistance that would span the next At this time there does not appear to be a eight decades. Having fought the Japanese younger generation of leaders to ascend power. occupation of Vietnam, when World War II ended, Thus, there is considerable speculation that the the Viet Minh, led by President Ho Chi Minh, current leadership will most likely continue in declared the nation independent. The French their positions rather than retiring. Party leaders rejected Vietnam’s independence and tried to emphasize that there is no room for political regain control, leading to open warfare that pluralism at this time and that the Communist ended with the Viet Minh’s astonishing victory at Party will maintain its hold. the Battle of Dien Bien Phu in May 1954. The Geneva Accords of mid-1954 temporarily divided the country. When the southern regime refused to hold elections in 1956, Vietnam Economic Overview destination fell into a civil war. The United States, which Vietnam is a densely-populated, developing supported the southern regime of Ngo Dinh country that in the last 30 years has had to Diem, sent its first combat troops to Vietnam recover from the ravages of war, the loss of in 1965. In 1973 the Americans withdrew; their financial support from the old Soviet Bloc, and former allies were forced to surrender on April the rigidities of a centrally planned economy. 30, 1975, at which time the nation was reunified Substantial progress was achieved from 1986 under Communist rule. to 1997 in moving forward from an extremely A period of economic and political isolation low level of development and significantly from much of the capitalist world followed. In the reducing poverty. Growth averaged around 9% late 1980s the Vietnamese Government eased per year from 1993 to 1997. The 1997 Asian restrictions on foreigners wishing to travel and financial crisis highlighted the problems in the invest in Vietnam. Diplomatic relations with the Vietnamese economy and temporarily allowed United States were resumed in 1995. opponents of reform to slow progress towards a market oriented economy. GDP growth of 8.5% in 1997 fell to 6% in 1998 and 5% in 1999. Growth then rose to 7% in 2000-04 even against the background of global recession. Since 2001, however, Vietnamese authorities have reaffirmed their commitment to economic liberalization
- 45 - and international integration. They have moved Language to implement the structural reforms needed to modernize the economy and to produce more Vietnamese is spoken by almost the entire competitive, export-driven industries. population. Variations in dialect, accent and However, equitization of state-owned pronunciation exist between north and south enterprises and reduction in the proportion and among ethnic minorities who have their own of non-performing loans has fallen behind dialects. The language is not easy to pronounce. schedule. Vietnam’s membership in the ASEAN The syllable is its base unit, with most syllables Free Trade Area (AFTA) and entry into force of having their own particular meaning – some the US-Vietnam Bilateral Trade in December words have as many as six different tones to 2001 have led to even more rapid changes in convey six meanings! Vietnam’s trade and economic regime. Vietnam’s French is still spoken by many of the older, exports to the US doubled in 2002 and again educated generation. English is spoken by more in 2003. Vietnam is working toward accession and more young people, as well as middle aged to the WTO in 2005. Among other benefits, people in the South. accession will allow Vietnam to take advantage of the phase out of the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, which eliminated quotas on textiles and clothing for WTO partners on 1 January Shopping 2005. Vietnam is working to promote job creation to keep up with the country’s high population Traditional Vietnamese handicrafts offer a growth rate. However, in 2004, high levels of wide variety of wares to choose from. These inflation prompted Vietnamese authorities to include lacquer ware, mother-of-pearl inlay, tighten monetary and fiscal policies. ceramics, pottery, precious wood, tortoise shell, embroidery, silk paintings, bamboo and wicker ware, baskets, marble carvings and jade. The Cuisine famous Vietnamese conical hat, the non la, and ao dai, traditional costume worn by Vietnamese Vietnamese cuisine offers a variety of dishes, women, are also plentiful in shops. delicately flavored with fresh herbs, spices, and Heavy taxation has discouraged the sale of nuoc mam (fish sauce), usually accompanied antiquities in the north and export is strictly by nuoc cham, a condiment of lime juice, grated controlled in the south. carrot, chilli, garlic and sugar. Steam rice (com) Tailored clothing is quickly made and and soup are eaten at every meal. inexpensive. A staple in the Vietnamese diet, pho, is destination available for breakfast, lunch and dinner. This delicious soup of rice noodles, beef stock and ginger, to which beef, bean sprouts, fresh coriander, basil and mint are added, is the universal favorite amongst Vietnamese. A leftover from the French era, breads and pastries are readily available throughout the country.
- 46 - Your Travel Highlights HUE: While imperial rule ended almost six decades ago, the central city of Hue still bears HANOI: In 1010 Emperor Ly Thai To founded his the marks of its royal past. From 1802 to 1945 capital, which he christened ‘Rising Dragon’, on Hue was home to 13 Nguyen emperors, whose the banks of the Red River. Almost a millennium palaces and tombs provide fascinating glimpses later, Hanoi remains Vietnam’s political center, its into the luxurious and secretive world of the crowded streets lined with reminders of its long court. Visitors may explore the red-lacquered and tumultuous history. You’ll find the Temple of pavilions of the Citadel, take a boat cruise on the Literature, a bastion of Confucian scholarship Perfume River or feast on delicacies once served founded in 1015; an Old Quarter of winding in the royal palaces. alleys, crowded markets and traditional shop- houses; tree-lined avenues flanked by imposing HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON): Renamed French colonial villas; and the Soviet-style Ho Chi Minh City in 1975, Saigon is Vietnam’s mausoleum built in honor of the man who led the business hub, a city that never stops. There’s country to independence, Ho Chi Minh. a buzz of energy; everyone is buying, selling, building, moving… Beautiful French colonial HA LONG BAY: More than 3,000 limestone buildings stand beside newly-built skyscrapers. islands rise from the turquoise waters of Ha Long Women dressed in Vietnam’s traditional ao Bay, an archipelago that lies 160km from Hanoi. dai tunic stroll past fashionable boutiques and Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO crowded cafes. You’ll find great nightlife and in 1994, Ha Long Bay is a naturalist’s dream. some of the best shopping in Southeast Asia in Sculpted into strange shapes by the wind and this vibrant, fast-changing city. weather, the islands hide deserted beaches, many magnificent caves, and hidden lagoons MEKONG DELTA: Life in Vietnam’s agrarian that may only be reached by chinks in the cliffs heartland still unfolds as it has for centuries, as that are revealed at low tide. farmers cultivate paddy, tend their orchards of tropical fruit, and fish in the rivers and canals HOI AN: Set near the coast in central Vietnam, that criss-cross this fertile plain. You can explore from the 16th to 19th centuries the riverside town the region’s myriad waterways by boat, watch of Hoi An once drew merchants from as far afield rare storks and sarus cranes, and visit traditional destination as Japan, India, Indonesia and Europe who floating markets. bought the area’s silk, spices and porcelain. A Japanese district and a Chinese quarter were built, to be later joined by a French district. What makes Hoi An remarkable today is that its town center has been beautifully preserved, the streets still lined with old tile-roofed shop-houses, shady pagodas and colourful communal halls. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, this little town is like a living museum.
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experience. uncommon. connections.
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