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Wine Lists in Quality Sushi Restaurants in Tokyo

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Wine Lists in Quality Sushi Restaurants in Tokyo Wine lists in quality sushi restaurants in Tokyo: The status quo and opportunities for change Word count: 9,995 © The Institute of Masters of Wine 2015. No part of this publication may be reproduced without permission. This publication was produced for private purpose and its accuracy and completeness is not guaranteed by the Institute. It is not intended to be relied on by third parties and the Institute accepts no liability in relation to its use. 1 © Institute of Masters of Wine 2015 CONTENTS 1.0 INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................... 5 2.0 BACKGROUND ........................................................................................................ 8 2.1 Position of sushi restaurants in the restaurant industry .......................................... 8 2.2 Structure of the sushi business ............................................................................... 9 2.3 Potential of wine in on-trade sushi restaurants .................................................... 10 2.4 Brief history of wine in sushi restaurants ............................................................. 11 2.5 Position of wine in the Japanese alcohol business ................................................ 11 2.6 Position of wines by country in Japan's wine market .......................................... 12 2.7 Hypothesis of French wine dominance in sushi restaurants ................................ 13 3.0 METHODOLOGY ................................................................................................... 15 3.1 Basic structure of the study .................................................................................. 15 3.2 Selection of restaurants/businesses surveyed and of interviewers ....................... 16 3.3 Ensuring statistical validity .................................................................................. 19 3.4 Creation of questionnaires/interview guidelines for research .............................. 20 3.5 Survey periods ..................................................................................................... 22 3.6 Specific method for physical research ................................................................. 23 3.7 Methodological limitations .................................................................................. 25 4.0 ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION ................................................................... 27 4.1 Current status of wine .......................................................................................... 27 4.1.1 Current status of wine sales ............................................................................ 28 4.1.2 Potential for wine sales ................................................................................... 29 2 © Institute of Masters of Wine 2015 4.1.3 Level of wine knowledge ............................................................................... 30 4.1.4 Reasons why restaurants do/do not offer wines and why customers select wines ........................................................................................................................ 31 4.1.5 Important considerations for wine selection................................................... 33 4.2 Wine lists: Status quo for types of wine .............................................................. 34 4.2.1 Wine SKUs ..................................................................................................... 35 4.2.2 Wines carried by colour .................................................................................. 35 4.2.3 Wines carried by category .............................................................................. 36 4.2.4 Wines carried by style and bottle size ............................................................ 37 4.2.5 Wines carried by price tier .............................................................................. 38 4.3 Wine lists: Status quo for region and variety ....................................................... 40 4.3.1 Overview of wines carried by region and variety .......................................... 40 4.3.2 French dominance (for country of origin) ...................................................... 45 4.3.3 Chablis dominance (for still white wine regions)........................................... 45 4.3.4 Champagne dominance (for sparkling wine regions) ..................................... 47 4.3.5 Chardonnay dominance (for still white wine varieties) ................................. 49 4.3.6 Cabernet Sauvignon dominance (for still red wine varieties) ........................ 50 4.4 Investigation of reasons for dominance ............................................................... 51 4.4.1 Analysis of reasons for Chablis dominance ................................................... 52 4.4.2 Analysis of reasons for Champagne dominance ............................................. 53 4.4.3 Analysis of reasons for Chardonnay dominance ............................................ 54 4.4.4 Analysis of reasons for Cabernet Sauvignon dominance ............................... 56 4.4.5 The phrase ‘name recognition’ in context ...................................................... 57 3 © Institute of Masters of Wine 2015 5.0 OPPORTUNITIES FOR CHANGE ......................................................................... 60 5.1 Current distributor/sushi restaurant/customer wine selection mechanism .......... 60 5.2 Analysis of opportunities for change ................................................................... 63 5.3 Reasons for variation in the acceptability of substituting alternative wines ........ 66 5.3.1 Reasons why substitution is least accepted for Champagne .......................... 67 5.3.2 Reasons why substitution is most accepted for Cabernet Sauvignon ............ 69 5.3.3 Reasons why substitution is somewhat accepted for Chablis and Chardonnay ........................................................................................................................ 70 5.4 Supplementary observations from the results of the trade research .................... 71 6.0 CONCLUSIONS ...................................................................................................... 73 7.0 BIBLIOGRAPHY & REFERENCES ...................................................................... 76 8.0 APPENDICES .......................................................................................................... 81 4 © Institute of Masters of Wine 2015 1.0 INTRODUCTION Tokyo boasts the largest number of eating and drinking establishments in Japan, with 124,500 businesses or 15.5% of the national total [Kakakucom Co., Ltd., 2015].1 The Japanese capital is also renowned for its 226 Michelin-starred restaurants, the largest number in any one city [Michelin Japan, 2014].2 Japan hosted over 13 million overseas visitors in 2014 [Japan National Tourism Organisation, 2014], an increase of 29.4% over the previous year [Japan National Tourism Organisation, 2015] and 1.7 times the number a decade earlier in 2005 [Ministry of Justice, 2005]. Japan, or more specifically Tokyo, will also host the Olympic Games in 2020. These facts have led Japan's Prime Minister Shinzo Abe to draw attention to the economic benefits brought in by foreign travellers, and to single out these visitors as a growth strategy for the general tourist industry [Zappallas, 2013].3 Surveys by the Japan Tourism Agency in 2014 revealed that 79.4% of overseas travellers coming to Japan wanted to ‘eat Japanese food’ [Japan Tourism Agency, 2014]. All of this suggests that Tokyo's on-trade market will increase in strength. Japanese cuisine, known as washoku, was designated an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2013. The results of a survey carried out in a number of 1 There were 803,226 eating and drinking establishments in Japan as of January 2015. 2 An annual guidebook for hotels and restaurants published by a global tyre manufacturer. The highest rating possible is a 3-star rating, and Tokyo currently has 226 Michelin-starred restaurants including 12 3-star establishments. 3 A report by New Sphere, a site reporting on overseas reactions to Japan, gives a target of attracting 30 million foreign travellers every year by 2030. 5 © Institute of Masters of Wine 2015 overseas cities ranked Japanese cuisine as the favourite foreign food, with sushi rated as number one in all cities [Japan External Trade Organisation, 2014]. In response to these trends, Japanese trade magazines for both sushi restaurants and the wine industry have recently started exploring matches between sushi and wine and publishing articles aimed at mutual promotion [Asahiya Shuppan, 2011] [The Wine Kingdom Co., Ltd., 2010]. Masahiro Kawaguchi of Kakuyasu Co., Ltd., an alcoholic drinks distributor based in Tokyo that boasts the second-highest total sales figures in Japan, said that wines have become increasingly visible in sushi restaurants over the last decade (2015, interview). Both industries are expected to take the other into consideration and reciprocally advance development. Despite these positive circumstances, there has not yet been any investigation into the current standing of wines in sushi restaurants, or opportunities for change in their wine lists [CiNii, 2014].4 This study therefore engaged with sushi restaurants, wine importers and wine distributors to investigate the current status of wines and wine lists in quality sushi
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