For Indians around the world who enjoy and the good life Volume 11, Issue 2, April-May 2016 `200 INDIA SommelierTHE WINE MAGAZINE

MAKE YOUR OWN SOMMELIER INDIA WINE MAGAZINE Volume 11, Issue 2, April-May 2016 SURESH BHALLA DID SO CAN YOU page 17

The Judgement of Paris REVISITING THE FAMOUS TASTING page 56

Gem of a EMBRACING CHENIN BLANC page 48

Biodynamics A WORLDWIDE TREND THAT HAS CAUGHT ON page 72

INDIA’S PREMIER WINE MAGAZINE. FOR RESTRICTED CIRCULATION ONLY WINEEVENT Toast to the Capital Rieslingfeier Delhi 2016 was a rare experience for Delhi’s wine lovers, with five top producers of German presenting their exceptional at a wine dinner in the capital. By Rajiv Kehr

he English translation of the German word feier is celebration or party. Hotel Leela, Gurgaon, with the support of Lufthansa and the InstituteT recently played host to the very first Festival in India, celebrating German Riesling, the acknowledged king of German wines and one of the six noble grape varieties. Riesling is considered by many to be among the finest in the world, a view shared by Jancis Robinson MW, wine writer for the Financial Times of London and Sommelier India columnist. Toasting German Rieslings and the Some of us may have first noticed Riesling great winemakers as one of the more affordable white wines on who came to Delhi with their wines to hotel wine lists. And the very first glass of participate in the German wine for wine enthusiasts belonging Riesling Festival

24 Sommelier INDIA APRIL-MAY 2016 APRIL-MAY 2016 Sommelier INDIA 25 to my generation, may well have been of its worth. Its twin peaks are intense perfume by , a very popular and a piercing crisp acidity, which it manages brand at the time, targeting the international to retain even at extremely ripe levels. Riesling mass market. produces delicate, racy, nervy and stylish wines So, was an introduction to German wine that cover a wide spectrum of flavours – from via the semi-sweet Liebfraumilch or Blue Nun steely and bone dry, with beautifully scented such a bad thing? Not really. We all have to start notes of apples, apricots, and sometimes peaches, somewhere. How can one appreciate greatness to exotically sweet flavours of the great sweet if you have not known and experienced wines wines. The wines are technically correct, but how at both ends of the spectrum? Many people does one convey the emotion you experience at might only think of Riesling as the cheap wine the sight and smell of an aged BA or TBA , a on a hotel list, but there is another world of wine that has been transformed over time, by “haute couture” Rieslings that attract the most the hand of nature from a pale greenish, golden frenzied bids at an auction. hue to a rich brown colour that can shimmer and These collectible bottles fetch record prices. dance in the candlelight. Thanks to its aromatic The 2003 (TBA) from profile and acidity, Riesling makes for a perfect Egon Müller, for instance, was auctioned at the pairing with spicy Asian cuisine including annual Trier Wine Auction in 2015 for Indian food. I very much wanted wine lovers in €12,000, making it the most expensive bottle India to experience the rich diversity of styles of white wine ever, while a double magnum that the best bottlings, from the top producers, (three-litre bottle) of G Max 2009 from have to offer. From this an idea was born which Weingut Keller was bought for a record €4,000 eventually blossomed into a Riesling festival, to the fact that Spätlese (late harvest) wines in 2010, which was the highest price ever paid with five producers representing , first originated there. Producers like Theresa in auction for a young dry Riesling, according Mosel and Mosel Saar showcasing their wines. today see Rheingau as the home of some of the to Hans Jürgen Podzun, head of the Koblenz Theresa Breuer of Georg Breuer, which has best dry Riesling. Chamber of Commerce. been specialising in dry Rieslings from their I met with a similar response from Numerous records prove that at one time great terroir since 1980, was enthusiastic about Barbara Engerer of Weingüter Geheimrat J Rajiv Kehr and Riesling commanded prices as great as the top the “Wine Queen coming to India even though she produces a Wegeler. Wegeler, with holdings in some of First Growths from Bordeaux and was highly of Rheinhessen” minuscule 6,000 bottles of her Rüdesheim the best plots in Rheingau and Mosel, were flanked by Tridib regarded. The wine served at Queen Elizabeth’s Sarkar and Parag Berg Schlossberg. Rheingau proudly lays claim perfect examples of house style over terroir. coronation in 1952 was a Riesling from Nierstein, Tripathi In 1992, Wegeler formed a team together with Hipping, one of the prime plots owned by Klaus the estates of Breuer, Hans Lang and Robert Peter. Indeed, in many instances, Riesling was Weil that pioneered the introduction of Erste the preferred choice of wine at official dinners. Gewächse (comparable to France’s Grand From top to bottom: A selection of snapshots of top German winemakers Wineries like Robert Weil in Rheingau display Cru designation) to the market in a concerted and guests at the dinner held at the Hotel Leela Gurgaon for Rieslingfeir Delhi old menus with Rieslings on the list for State effort to re-establish the character of a site as 2016, the first Riesling Festival staged in India and curated by Rajiv Kehr Dinners in Europe. the sole criterion of quality. Next to sign up, were Klaus Peter and o what happened? How did Riesling lose Julia Keller from Rheinhessen. Klaus Peter’s its way? In the 1980s producers lost focus wines fetch record prices and critical acclaim Sand began to produce more and more is deservedly heaped upon them by scores of wine for the mass market, diluting the great wine writers and critics. In 2012 they had the ability of Riesling to faithfully express its terroir, honour of supplying the wine for the 60th which is precisely what a wine connoisseur seeks Anniversary of the coronation of Queen in a top bottle. For without emotion there can Elizabeth II. In 2013 they produced the baby be no great bottle, nor can there be appreciation wine for little Prince George from the steep

26 Sommelier INDIA APRIL-MAY 2016 APRIL-MAY 2016 Sommelier INDIA 27 Hipping vineyard in Nierstein. e were now set to organise WINESOFGERMANY to reach its full ripeness. It does well even in Lovers of Indian food, Klaus Peter and the festival on January 27, rocky soil and, when young, produces wines Julia reached deep into their cellar to present Wshowcasing a broad range of the with aromas of rose, cashew, peach and green an auction bottle from Nierstein, the famous greatest wines from Germany at a dinner with RENOWNED apples. Capable of producing age-worthy wine-growing town in Rheinhessen, along with the support of the German Wine Institute wines, Rieslings acquire complexity with age their Westhofen, Abts E, Grosses Gewächs, who sent along Sabrina Becker, Rheinhessen and are a treat for the palate. 2007. We were already on a roll. Wein Konigin (Wine Queen of Rheinhessen) RIESLINGS Given below is a list of the wines The Mosel which is the quintessential 2015/2016, to represent all the wine regions presented at the Master Class. Because Riesling region for many was represented by in Germany. The chefs at Diya, the Indian Gurjit Barry’s firsthand account of an of space constraints, instead of providing Nik Weis of St Urbans-Hof. Mosel Rieslings restaurant at the Leela, rose to the occasion exclusive Master Class presented by individual tasting notes I describe the house are bright, fruity and fresh with acidity by coming up with an Indian menu to pair some of the top winemakers in Germany and the wine styles in general. Five prestigious and sugar to give them an ageing potential, with the wines over several flights. houses present – Georg Breuer, Wegeler, Egon second to none. Weingut St Urbans-Hof was Now that it’s all over, I sometimes Müller, St Urbans-Hof and Keller. Each house first established in 1947 by Nicolaus Weis wonder how it happened. After all, per capita represented and showcased a style different who was awarded the prestigious title of consumption of wine in India according to anuary 29, 2016 will go down in the from the other, yet each is steeped in history “Oekonomierat” (Chancellor of Agriculture) the latest statistics published by the German diaries of a few chosen wine lovers in the and tradition. in 1969 for his dedication to German Wine Institute is a mere 0.01 litre. Another Jcity as a most memorable day. This was viticultural traditions and his name and title way to look at that statistic is the fact that the the day when the rarest of the rare Rieslings GEORG BREUER became part of the winery name, “St Urbans- total consumption of wine in India is 15,000 from Germany were presented to a select The wines of Georg Breuer impressed Hof Oekonomierat Nic”. kl and in the tiny state of Singapore it’s 17,300 audience at a Master Class held at the Leela everyone with their elegance. Founded in All that remained now was to sign up Egon kl. In comparison, India ranks 50th globally Gurgaon hotel by accomplished international 1880, the estate specialises in producing dry, Müller whose Scharzhofberg vineyard is one of in consumption of beer. winemakers, whose names we usually get to age-worthy Rieslings where quality dictates the finest in Germany. So great is its fame, that Indian weddings are extravagant affairs see only in wine magazines (such as this) with each decision. Unlike the new generation of it remains one of only a handful of German with no expense spared and the choicest people like Egon Müller, Nik Weis, Julia and winemakers, the Georg Breuer winery prides vineyards whose wines are sold without of whiskies served to the guests, while the Klaus Peter Keller, Theresa Breuer, Barbara itself in using no high tech equipment. So it mention of the village name. The vineyard “I very much selection of wine leaves much to be desired. Engerer and Sabrina Becker, the beautiful all boils down to the skill of the winemaker was most likely planted by the Romans and wanted wine However, once more people experience the Wine Queen of Rheinhessen. Wine from Wegeler and decades of experience. Lengthy storage belonged to the monastery of “St Marien ad emotion and the pleasure of a great bottle of It is no mean feat to get hold of the top guns Estates, one of the on fine yeast and micro-oxygenation help lovers in India best known vineyards Martyres” in Trier from its founding around wine, I am sure this will change. of the German wine world together in a room in the mid Mosel develop the wines and impart longevity. 700 through the Middle Ages. to experience It comes as no surprise, then, that with knowledge-thirsty wine lovers in India. region I 2011 Berg Rottland After the French Revolution and the the rich dedicated wine professionals from across the And we are indebted to Rajiv Kher, a highly I 2013 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg I occupation of the West Bank of the Rhine diversity of hospitality industry were silenced for a time respected wine collector, connoisseur and 2014 Terra Montosa by the revolutionary government, all church when they first experienced the indescribable curator of fine wine dinners, for making the properties were seized and sold. Egon Müller’s styles that the emotion of tasting a TBA from Egon Müller event possible. We tasted various expressions WEGELER great great-grandfather acquired the Scharzhof best bottlings at the Master Class organised at the Leela of the Riesling grape that day. Riesling has The wines of Wegeler were another gem estate in 1797 from the “Republique Française”. from the top Gurgaon by the amiable Dutch-Australian always been known as one of the most that we discovered that day. Wegeler’s It has remained in the family ever since. General Manager, Michel Koopman, who is a versatile of grapes. In Germany, it accounts winemaking history dates back to more Egon Müller owns about 21 acres of prime producers have greatr supporter of such programmes. for almost one-fifth of the plantings and is than 130 years and the wines have been vineyards in the Scharzhofberg and manages to offer” In time, I have no doubt that India will capable of making both still and sparkling hailed around the world by leading wine the small estate of Le Gallais in the Wiltinger take its rightful place, globally, as a good wines in bone dry as well as semi dry experts. In 1900, brothers Julius and Carl Braune Kupp of 10 acres. About eight acres of market for high-end wine. I don’t see it as avatars, semi sweet to lusciously sweet, Wegeler acquired shares of the Bernkastler ungrafted Riesling vines in the Scharzhofberg a distant dream, especially when many of along with the spectacularly delicious “Doctor” site and paid 35.8 grams of gold date back to the last century, planted at a the greatest winemakers such as those who and rare, ice-wines. It would not be per square metre. This transaction goes density of 4,000 vines per acre. Insecticides participated in the Festival are willing to lend wrong to call it the “Queen of Grapes”. A down in German history as the highest have not been used for 25 years. There is no their support to nurture the Indian market. I cold climate lover with remarkably high anyone has ever paid till now for a vineyard. treatment against Botrytis. salute them for their vision! O acidity, Riesling needs extra days of sun It was a purchase that made it possible for

28 Sommelier INDIA APRIL-MAY 2016 APRIL-MAY 2016 Sommelier INDIA 29 the winery to make high quality wine for discerning consumers over generations. I 2013 Geheimrat J Riesling Spätlese I 2002 Oestricher Lenchen Spätlese I 2014 Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese I 2014 Rudesheim Berg Schlossberg KELLER The cracking-good wines of Keller had us all in awe. We were served a Kabinett and another GG, short for Grosses Gewächs. Jancis Robinson considers Keller wines equivalent to Montrachets and on the other side of the Atlantic, Robert Parker names Klaus Peter Keller as the godfather of Riesling. generation winemaker, Egon Müller carries I 2012 Nierstein P Kabinett Versteigerung on the family tradition. It is worth mentioning (Rare Auction Wine) that Egon Müller belongs to Primum Familiae I 2007 Abts E Riesling GG Vini (PVF), a small group of elite, family- owned wine producers. Müller is the only ST URBANS-HOF Top: Impressive line-up German member of this illustrious group. This winery is already represented in India by of German Rieslings. The Müller promise of quality is such that no Above: Label of Mumbai-based wine importer, Vishal Kadakia, Weingut von Hovel wine below Kabinett level is allowed to bear proprietor of The Wine Park. However, it Scharzhofberger the vineyard name. Riesling Kabinett, one was the first time that I met Nikolaus Peter of the more sought- Egon Müller owns 8.3 hectares of ungrafted Weis, or Nik Weis as his friends address him. after wines from the Riesling vines going back to the last century on Nik is the third generation owner and estate Mosel. Below: Two the Scharzhofberg estate, out of a total of 28 fine examples from St manager as well as the winemaker at Weingut Urbans-Hof winery, hectares available. Scharzhofberg is considered St Urbans-Hof. The estate totals 35 hectares run by third generation one of the most prestigious sites in Germany. owner and winemaker, and is the single largest privately owned estate Nik Weis The estate produces BA, TBA and even in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region of Germany. Eiswein. The TBA wines of Egon Müller are so Under Nik’s guidance St Urbans-Hof has rare that they can only be bought at auctions. been established and recognised as a leader in Müller shared a bottle of 1995 Scharzhofberger quality wine production. Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) Egon Müller with I 2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling us. The auction price of this wine is around Spätlese St Urbans-Hof €11,000 per bottle of 75 cl. I 2012 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling I 2011 Scharzhofberger Kabinett Kabinett St Urbans-Hof I 1995 Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese I 2011 Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese St I can confidently say that all the wines made Urbans-Hof a lasting impression. This was no ordinary I 2010 SAARFEISSER Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling tasting. The wines swept us all off our St Urbans-Hof feet by their simplicity, intensity and depth of flavour. As I write this piece while sipping a EGON MÜLLER German Riesling on a nippy January evening, The highly respected Müller Family has all I can hope for is that these wines are made owned and produced wine at their Scharzhof available in India soon, so that more wine lovers Estate since 1797. Two centuries later, fourth can enjoy Germany’s excellent Rieslings. O

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