A SHORTER MILAN SEASON/2 GUCCI PROPELS PPR NET/4 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • September 9, 2005 • $2.00 Beauty Born Again NEW YORK — More than 50 years after Estée Lauder introduced her first major fragrance, Youth Dew, the scent is getting a sexy sibling, courtesy of Tom Ford. The eagerly awaited Youth Dew Amber Nude scent, which will be accompanied by a luxe makeup collection, will bow in early November in an elite handful of specialty store doors. For more, see page 14.

WWD EXCLUSIVE Tommy Hilfiger at 20: Designer on Anniversary, Sale and Brand Renewal By Lisa Lockwood NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger is refocused and sticking around, no matter what happens. TTommyommy With the U.S. Hilfiger's Attorney’s Office eagle vest from the investigation Tommy Rocks behind him and collection. prospects of new corporate ownership on the horizon, Hilfiger finds himself in an unusual situation as he celebrates his company’s 20th anniversary. Yet he views See Tommy, Page6 PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY; INSET PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO INSET PHOTO BY BRYN KENNY; GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BY PHOTOGRAPHED 2 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 WWD.COM Milan Fashion Week Trims Calendar By Luisa Zargani top designers unyieldingly pick the day and the time, we can only take note of that,” he added, WWDFRIDAY MILAN — The pressure apparently worked. saying these choices will penalize the fashion Beauty After a strong campaign led by Vogue editor in houses and the Italian fashion system at a deli- chief Anna Wintour for a shorter Milan Fashion cate moment, given economic pressures. GENERAL Week, Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber The week kicks off on Monday, Sept. 26, with With a federal investigation behind him and prospects of new corporate of Fashion, threw in the towel and on Thursday is- the Emporio Armani show, followed by Salvatore 1 ownership, Tommy Hilfiger is at a crossroads as his company turns 20. sued a five-day show calendar. The downside is Ferragamo, Pollini by Rifat Ozbek, Borbonese and that it’s one of the most tightly packed seasons in Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti. Pucci, Alberta Kellwood Co. is purchasing G.A.V.’s interests in the Calvin Klein better years, with some shows a mere 30 minutes apart. Ferretti, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada will show on 2 sportswear business and has named Stephen Ruzow as division president. There will be 69 shows in Milan this season, Tuesday. On Wednesday, Missoni starts the day, fol- FASHION: A trio of designers — hailing from Italy, Germany and Australia stretching from Sept. 26-30. lowed by Trend Les Copains, Jil Sander and 6 — touch down on U.S. soil with bold new collections. “I’m thrilled,” Wintour said Thursday of the Bottega Veneta scheduled from 11:30 to 12:30 and SUZY: Sienna Miller has forgiven Jude Law for cheating with his children’s shorter season. distanced half an hour apart, just as are Anna nanny…Jennifer and Marc plan to spend more time in New York. But Boselli made it clear he wasn’t pleased. Molinari and Burberry Prorsum that evening. 12 For the first time, the chamber also put out a let- Giorgio Armani and Gucci also will be showing on EYE: A conversation with Philip Seymour Hoffman, whose new film, ter together with the calendar, pointing out that Wednesday — a first for such powerhouses to be 13 “Capote,” premieres Saturday at the Toronto International Film Festival. some fashion houses chose to show half an hour appearing on the same day. On Thursday, Fendi BEAUTY: Tom Ford has summoned the spirit of Estée Lauder, who put apart and lamenting their “unconditional will…to will be at 4 p.m., followed by Menichetti at 4:30 14 American fragrance on the map when she launched Youth Dew in 1953. be positioned in those [central] days of the week,” p.m., Daks at 5 p.m., Alessandro Dell’Acqua at 5:30 Obituaries...... 16, 22 and their “limited flexibility.” p.m. and Moschino Cheap & Chic at 6 p.m. Dolce & Classified Advertisements...... 23 In a phone interview, Boselli declined to com- Gabbana also shows on Thursday and Versace ment on whether Italian designers were heavily closes the day with two shows, at 8 p.m. and 9 p.m., To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is influenced by Wintour and Italian Vogue editor in to be held at the city’s Bourse building. Roberto [email protected], using the individual’s name. chief Franca Sozzani, who, as reported earlier Cavalli, Gianfranco Ferré and Miu Miu basically WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. this year, have been asking for a shorter calendar wrap up the week on Friday. Armani, Versace, VOLUME 190, NO. 54. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional in an effort to save time and money. Prada, Ferré and Miu Miu are the only houses issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL “I don’t even want to know whether there was holding two shows. OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., this kind of pressure,” said Boselli. “What I resent “The days will be longer, as fashion houses will Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior is the behavior of our associates and their limited surely wait for one another, as they always have,” Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. sense of responsibility. said one fashion insider. “That said, I think the Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. “We as an association try to be arbiters, but if press will eventually have to make choices.” Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products Kellwood Ups Stake in Calvin Sportswear and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND By Marc Karimzadeh and Julee Greenberg ment Stores Inc. and have a presence on the bet- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART ter sportswear floors. Calvin Klein is currently WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE NEW YORK — Kellwood Co. has agreed to purchase available in 200 doors in North America, includ- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. G.A.V.’s interests in the Calvin Klein women’s better ing Bloomingdale’s, Marshall Field’s, Lord & sportswear business and has named Stephen L. Taylor, Macy’s East and Macy’s West. Ruzow as president of the division. According to retailers, the Calvin Klein better The deal ends the services agreement in which sportswear collection is selling well, and one retail- G.A.V. managed Calvin Klein women’s better er noted it’s ahead of plan by 50 percent this season Quote of the Week sportswear as a business venture with Kellwood. over last year, with much future growth potential. The Calvin Klein women’s bet- “The Calvin Klein better “The luxury boom continues. The ter sportswear collection is sportswear line has been suc- produced by Kellwood under cessfully launched throughout demographics are in our favor. The a license agreement with Cal- the U.S. and Canada,” said vin Klein Inc., a wholly owned Alexander Vreeland, presi- wealth factor is growing…the desire subsidiary of the Phillips-Van dent and chief operating offi- Heusen Corp. cer of G.A.V. “We have estab- for luxury is continuing. The cycle In 2004, the core Calvin lished a business and have Klein label raked in $2.8 bil- sold our interests in this ven- is not near its completion.’’ lion in retail sales, including ture to Kellwood, who we be- — Burt Tansky, president and chief executive officer, all categories. The sale price lieve have the resources to was not disclosed. take it to the next level. Neiman Marcus Group According to a statement “Andy [Grossman, G.A.V.’s from Kellwood, the separation ceo] and I have successfully is the result of G.A.V.’s inten- launched a business.…We are tion to focus on its other ap- very proud of what we have In Brief parel businesses, including its achieved,” Vreeland continued. ck Calvin Klein bridge sports- The deal seems to have been ● SARA LEE BUYS SHARES: Sara Lee Corp. on Thursday said it wear line, and Kellwood’s amicable, and it appears that has acquired $562 million of stock — 29 million shares of its out- plans to concentrate its efforts there will be few changes in the standing common stock — since July 3, as part of the company’s on Calvin Klein women’s bet- direction of the line. Kellwood share repurchase program. Sara Lee in August outlined a $2 bil- ter sportswear. is keeping about 90 percent of lion, multiyear share repurchase program and said it would “We are most appreciative the G.A.V. staff that worked on make $1 billion of the share repurchases during the current fis- of G.A.V.’s efforts in helping the line, Vreeland said. cal year. The firm also said it “continues to negotiate” with poten- Kellwood launch the Calvin “The business started out tial buyers regarding the sale of its European apparel business. Klein women’s better sports- slowly, but much better than wear business and wish them many of the other newcomers ● SEAN JOHN APPOINTMENT: Diana Espino-Gitlin has been much success with their other into this zone,” said Tom Murry, named vice president and general manager of Sean John business endeavors,” Robert C. president and chief operating Fragrances. She will report to John Demsey, global brand presi- Skinner Jr., Kellwood’s presi- officer of Calvin Klein Inc. dent of Estée Lauder, MAC Cosmetics and Sean John Fragrances. dent and chief executive offi- An image from the “There have been improve- cer, said in a statement. fall Calvin Klein ments each season as a result Ruzow previously was pres- ad campaign. of the close collaboration be- ident of Kellwood women’s tween G.A.V. and Kellwood. We Corrections wear, a post he held since think it’s in everyone’s best in- The following photo credits were omitted on pages 22 and 23 of joining the company in 2001 from Donna Karan terest. Kellwood wants to focus entirely on better WWDMusic, section II, Thursday: Destiny’s Child: Reuters/Corbis; International, where he was president and ceo. and G.A.V. wants to focus on bridge.” The Osmonds: Barry Bregman/Retna; Abba: Heilemann/Retna; “Due to the importance of our Calvin Klein The Calvin Klein deal with Kellwood and Duran Duran, Run-DMC: Lynn Goldsmith/Corbis; The Beatles: women’s better sportswear business and the G.A.V. was signed in June 2003 and started ship- Bettmann/Corbis; TLC: Gregory Pace/Corbis; The Supremes: tremendous potential we believe it represents, ping to department stores in February 2004. While Underwood & Underwood/Corbis; The Hives: Joshua Kessler/Retna. Steve will forgo all of his other Kellwood respon- G.A.V. handled areas such as product, quality, fit, ● ● ● sibilities to concentrate 100 percent on Calvin marketing and positioning, Kellwood was in Marc Jacobs will be selling 4,000 Lil’ Kim T-shirts in its stores in Klein,” Skinner stated. charge of back-office operations and funded the aid of The Door charity. The number was incorrect in a story on For Kellwood, the deal presents an opportunity business. Vreeland declined to disclose the price page 3, Thursday. to cement its business with Federated Depart- Kellwood paid to buy G.A.V. out. . OMMY HILFIGER LICENSING INC ARE TRADEMARKS OF T TRUEAND STAR VED. TOMMY HILFIGER, TOMMY VED. INC. ALL RIGHTS RESER

ENRIQUE IGLESIAS MMY HILFIGER LICENSING, ILETRIES. © 2005 TO ILETRIES. © 2005 TO TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY ENRIQUE IGLESIAS FOR

A NEW FRAGRANCE BY 4 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 WWD.COM Gucci Leads PPR to 12.5 Percent Profit Gain

By Robert Murphy Coming a day after LVMH Moët François- ued to reap robust leather goods sales, as Hennessy Louis Vuitton touted a 19 per- Henri demand for the new La Pelle Guccissima PARIS — Impressive gains at Gucci cent rise in net income, PPR’s results Pinault had “exploded.” Group drove first-half net profits ahead point to a continued roll for luxury. Less stellar were PPR’s retail opera- 12.5 percent for PPR, offsetting declines Pinault said sales of luxury products tions, which have struggled against a at the French conglomerate’s struggling in July and August were along the same tepid economic climate in Europe, espe- retail arm. lines of the 12.5 percent gain clocked in cially in France. Net income advanced to 169.6 million the first half, and he voiced “confidence” The division’s operating income fell 4.2 euros, or $218.2 million, from 150.8 mil- for the remainder of the year. percent to 268.8 million euros, or $345.8 lion euros, or $185.1 million, a year ago. Among bright spots, Pinault said first- million, mostly due to a 27 percent dive in Income benefitted from a 76.4 percent half losses narrowed 9.1 percent at the operating income at the Conforama furni- leap in operating income at Gucci Group, Yves Saint Laurent fashion house, thanks ture chain, which has been renovating PPR chairman and chief executive to efforts by the new management and stores and revisiting its product offer. François-Henri Pinault told a meeting of design teams. First-half losses at YSL Losses also widened to 2.3 million analysts and reporters Thursday at the totaled 40.1 million euros, or $51.6 mil- euros, or $2.9 million, at the Printemps Pompidou Museum here. lion, down from 44.1 million euros, or department store chain. Operating income grew 11.3 percent to $54.1 million, last year. Asked during a question period about 348.6 million euros, or $448.4 million, Pinault was upbeat on Bottega Veneta, persistent speculation that PPR will sell from 313.3 million euros, or $384.6 mil- the Italian fashion and leather house that DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY Printemps, Pinault replied: “I will not lion, last year, Pinault said. Currency con- achieved profitability for the first time Sergio Rossi, Bedat & Co. and Stella Mc- comment on rumors.” versions were made at average exchange with 2.1 million euros, or $2.7 million, in Cartney — losses diminished by 39.9 per- At the Redcats mail-order division, rates for the respective periods. profits in the half. cent to 25.7 million euros, or $33.1 million, improvements in the U.S. and Scandinavia The numbers, which beat analysts’ Meanwhile, the chairman and ceo said Pinault said. boosted profits 8 percent to 110.9 million expectations, would have been better but losses were shrinking “beyond expecta- YSL Beauté’s losses widened to 18.8 euros, or $142.6 million, and profits rose 10.3 for the impact of adverse exchange rates tion” at Boucheron and Balenciaga and million euros, or $24.2 million, due to cur- percent to 21.5 million euros, or $27.6 mil- that wiped 38.9 million euros, or $50 mil- that those brands were on the road to rency exchange losses, as well as invest- lion, at the Fnac music and book chain. lion, off Gucci Group’s 107.4 million break even “ahead of schedule.” ments made to launch the YSL Cinema PPR stock inched down 0.1 percent to euros, or $138.1 million, in operating Among “other brands” — including Bou- and Zegna Z scents. close Thursday at 87.80 euros, or $109.22 at income, Pinault said. cheron, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Pinault said the Gucci brand contin- current exchange, on the Paris Bourse. Christian Dior Sees Summer Sales Rise Lampert Takes Bigger Sears Role PARIS — In another sign of an ebullient climate for luxury, the Christian Dior fashion By Vicki M. Young house said its July and August sales vaulted 16 percent in its network of 184 stores. “The trend is excellent in all areas,” Dior chief executive Sidney Toledano told NEW YORK — Sears Holdings Corp. chairman Edward Lampert is taking a big- WWD Thursday. “We are confident for the second half.” ger hands-on role in managing day-to-day operations at the retailer after the Toledano cited strong reaction to John Galliano’s fall-winter ready-to-wear collec- ouster on Thursday of chief executive officer Alan Lacy. tion and said Dior’s new “Flight” range of handbags, shoes and men’s wear were all The shakeup came as Sears Holdings reported second-quarter results in the performing “extremely well.” first full quarter since Kmart’s acquisition of Sears and declining same-store The Dior fashion house only quantifies its profits once a year, simply citing “sus- sales at both nameplates. tained” — meaning flat — operating income in the first half owing to a significant Kmart, however, posted positive comps in apparel for the quarter, though number of boutique openings, including locations in Shanghai, Las Vegas, Osaka and the company didn’t provide figures. The decline in Sears’ comps was partly Okinawa in Japan, São Paulo and Mexico City. Toledano said the profit picture would because of fewer promotional events and the reduction in inventory levels to improve in the crucial second half. lower merchandise holding costs in an effort to improve gross margin. Sales at Dior increased 10 percent in the six months ended June 30 to total 301 Billionaire financier Lampert engineered Kmart’s $11 billion acquisition of million euros, or $387.2 million at average exchange rates, led by dynamic growth in Sears, which closed March 24. Aylwin Lewis, who had been ceo of Kmart Asia and the United States in particular. Stripping out currency impact, the gain Holding Corp. since October, is replacing Lacy effective Sept. 30. Lacy retains stood at 11 percent. his vice chairmanship. William Crowley, the chief financial officer, adds to his Meanwhile, Christian Dior SA, parent of luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis responsibilities the new post of chief administrative officer. Vuitton and the Dior fashion house, reported operating profits largely in line with Lampert will direct the marketing, merchandising, design and online busi- the results LVMH released earlier this week. Profits totaled 1.1 billion euros, or $1.41 nesses of Sears and its Lands’ End operation, with the goal of ensuring that billion, up 11.3 percent from the same period last year. Sears Holdings’ initiatives “are clearly focused on responding to customer The Dior group also gave an objective of a “significant” increase in operating needs,” the company said in a statement. profits for the full year. Lewis will oversee the company’s 3,900 stores, as well as home services, finance, legal, supply chain, information technology and human resources, the company said. Reaction to the news was mixed. Shares of the retailer fell by $7.04 to close Ghurka Appoints John Bartlett at $127.81 in over-the-counter trading Thursday. The company “needs a merchant to bring excitement to the store and make NEW YORK — After years of pining for for, as well as add new product cate- the store exciting for the customer,’’ said Walter Loeb, a former analyst and now the company’s rich leather bags, John gories with a singular vision,” said Abe head of his own consulting firm, Loeb Associates. “I see too much basic, unex- Bartlett has been named creative direc- Chehebar, chief executive officer of citing merchandise in the store and that is not what the customer wants.” tor of Ghurka, the Norwalk, Conn.-based Accessory Network Group. Richard Hastings, an analyst at Bernard Sands, said the decision to move accessories firm. Marc Beckman, president and co- Lacy out of daily operations was not a surprise. “It’s an exciting fit,” said Bartlett, who owner of Designer Management Agency, “Under his leadership at Sears, results declined and we were not surprised is relaunching his men’s sportswear col- which represents Bartlett as well as de- this morning to hear about the change in management,” he said. As for lection tonight at the tents at Bryant Park. signer Alice Roi and Jones Apparel Lampert’s new role, Hastings said: “We think he knows how to make money.’’ “I’ve been obsessed with Ghurka since I Group, views the move as a strategic one For the second quarter ended July 30, Sears Holdings reported income of went to school in Massachusetts. It’s been for both parties. $161 million, or 98 cents a diluted share, on revenues of $13.2 billion. Kmart’s under the radar for years, but it’s a clas- “John’s star is rising, and with Ghurka same-store sales decreased by 0.3 percent, while comps at Sears’ domestic sic, authentic brand, and is something and the infrastructure Ghurka brings, it stores fell by 7.4 percent. The year-ago results, in which income was $154 mil- I’ve always been fascinated by.” will surely be [a successful venture],” lion, or $1.54, on revenues of $4.8 billion, is not a direct comparison, since it Bartlett will have creative control of Beckman said. “John has a true does not include Sears’ results. men’s and women’s accessories, which American sensibility and that’s what If the acquisition had occurred at the beginning of 2004, income would have was previously done by Simeon people are looking for.” jumped 46.4 percent to $161 million, or 98 cents a diluted share, from $110 mil- Turnbull, who has left the company. Ghurka’s sales are up 30 percent over lion, or 67 cents. Revenues would have declined by 2.1 percent to $13.2 billion The 30-year-old company specializes last year, Chehebar said, and with from $13.5 billion. in luxe sporty leather bags. It was ac- Bartlett’s arrival, he expects to double For the six months, which does not include Sears results prior to the acqui- quired by Accessory Network Group in business in 2006. He declined to give an sition, income was $152 million, or $1.05, on revenues of $20.8 billion. April. The company opened a flagship exact volume figure. The company said in its quarterly report filed with the Securities and on Madison Avenue here and launched a Details of the contract were not dis- Exchange Commission that 20 Sears and Kmart stores and facilities in women’s collection of bags for fall that closed, though Chehebar said that the al- Louisiana and Mississippi were damaged by Hurricane Katrina. features horn-detailed leather hobo bags liance is a long-term strategic alliance As for his additional responsibilities, Lampert wrote: “I intend to serve and canvas and leather totes. with multiple renewal options based on without compensation, either in cash or stock options, consistent with my belief “John’s credibility and creativity will performance. Bartlett starts at the end of that large owners who serve as chairman or ceo are best compensated by enable us to grow our business both in the month. increasing the value of the company over time for all shareholders.” luxury bags, which we are well known — Sophia Chabbott For more on Sears, see page 17.

6 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 Tommy Turns Twenty In the midst of tumultuous times for the company, Tommy Hilfiger looks forward and back.

Continued from page one Tommy The cashmere the milestone as an opportunity to give his brand a Hilfiger’s blend V-neck fresh start. cotton and sweater and silk Tonight’s blockbuster fashion show at the Bryant beaded striped ribbon circle Park tents here — which will feature 100 male and fe- sweater, skirt. male models and will be attended by 1,200 people — is cotton shorts indicative of his commitment to the future. Celebrities and boxers. such as Bow Wow, Alicia Keys, Rebecca Romijn, Paris Hilton, Allan Houston and the members of Duran Duran are expected to attend both the show and the after party on West 28th Street, where the Black Eyed Peas will perform. The event is all part of Hilfiger’s upbeat attitude after a year that would leave most others feeling belea- guered. “Everyone feels very positive, and we’re happy that it’s over and relieved,” said Hilfiger, during an inter- view at the company’s showroom. “It was a terrible dis- traction.” More recently, the news that Hilfiger has hired J.P. Morgan Chase to advise on a potential sale has ob- servers wondering whether his best days are behind him. But the designer doesn’t see it that way. A sketch “It’s very exciting to me. for spring I need excitement in my 2006. life. I thrive on it. I like change. I like doing some- thing new, and I like to have the opportunity to be creative. A lot of compa- nies come and go,” the de- signer said. Financial sources said the asking price on Hilfiger is at least $1.82 bil- lion, but could go as high as $2.16 billion. Hilfiger himself could fetch him as much as $250 million in cash as a buyout of his con- tract. He was advised by his lawyers that he couldn’t directly address the prospect of a sale. Whether a sale of the company would facilitate expansion and new prod- ucts and presentations, Hilfiger was honest. “I haven’t been down that road yet,” he responded. Still, he be- lieves the brand is “alive and breathing and growing and it needs certain nur- turing; it needs certain momentum.” Should a new owner come in, his pri- Tommy Hilfiger orities would include new products, at the new stores, new presentations and company’s having new creative talent come in. cocktail party Asked what would happen if, for Wednesday. JOHN AQUINO AND RETROSPECTIVE PHOTOS BY ZACK SECKLER; FASHION HILFIGER PHOTO BY example, a Chinese company wanted Hilfiger said he’s learned a lot love the brand and want to contribute to the brand. to buy the company, but didn’t want to from Karl Lagerfeld, whose busi- Some people are ‘very Tommy,’ ‘very Calvin’ and ‘very keep Hilfiger on board, the designer ness his company acquired earlier Donna.’ Being in this business, you know who belongs laughed: “They’d have to give me all the this year for a reported $30 million. where,” said Hilfiger. tea in China.” “Spending time with Karl Lagerfeld With that in mind, the company Wednesday tapped As for next season, Hilfiger said he’s mak- was so inspiring,” said Hilfiger. He ex- Rebecca Shafer as executive vice president of market- ing “a very bold statement that khaki is the new plained that in the same way Lagerfeld went ing and brand development. She succeeds Peter denim.” He believes that women already have 10 to 20 back into the Coco Chanel archives in order to design Connolly, president of global marketing and communi- pairs of jeans in their closets, and there’s a glut of the modern-day Chanel, Hilfiger was taking everything cations, who has held the job for eight and half years, denim in the market. great that he designed in the past and making it new for and whose last day is today. “I’d like to celebrate chinos and khakis as a new be- spring 2006. Most recently, Shafer was at Tse Cashmere, where ginning,” said Hilfiger. He said he’s offering different “It’s going back to what I stand for, and not worrying she has been the creative director since 1998. Earlier, lengths, khakis that are patched and pieced together about impressing the fashion press,” said Hilfiger. she was a principal at Christina & Shafer, a public rela- and khaki outerwear. He also tried to reinvent red, Earlier this year, Hilfiger hired Mirian Lamberth as tions and brand imaging agency, which she co-founded, white and blue by using the colors in different ways. creative director. She has previously worked at J. Crew, and has worked in public relations at Esprit and Ralph He’s incorporating nautical looks, a backbone of past Gap, Calvin Klein and OshKosh. “She has great sensibil- Lauren. She reports to Lynn Shanahan, group president collections, into the spring line. The collection focuses ity and we were looking for someone who really loves of U.S. wholesale and licensing. on details, in the collars and the buttons, and uses clas- the Tommy Hilfiger brand,” he said. In fact, Hilfiger Hilfiger’s company has experienced tremendous sic fabrics such as seersucker and madras. said what he’s learned most about hiring is that it’s im- growth spurts — as well as growing pains — since its “We’ve taken all the elements we’ve relied on and perative for people to love the brand, and want to work launch. Hilfiger introduced his men’s signature collec- made them new and fresh with new proportions, new for the brand. tion through a licensing agreement with Mohan Murjani lengths and dressy and casual elements, but mostly ca- “If people don’t like the brand and would rather be in 1985. Four years later, Silas Chou and Lawrence sual,” said Hilfiger. He also said the collection would in- at Prada or Dolce & Gabbana, they won’t perform for Stroll acquired majority ownership of Hilfiger, and the clude both vintage and new influences. you. In my new life, I’m only going to hire people who licensing agreement with Murjani was terminated. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Hilfiger went public in 1992, and the IPO was followed Elton Boots from by three successful secondary ones, making the princi- John’s the Tommy pals, who retained majority control, extremely wealthy. platform RRoockscks Stroll and Chou sold their interests and left the firm in boots. fashion 2003. Today, Hilfiger is the largest individual sharehold- show in er of Tommy Hilfiger USA. 2000. Over the past 18 months, Hilfiger has embarked on a strategy to fix the firm’s core U.S. wholesale business, expand overseas and launch new businesses. Ironically, the company has spent the last few years looking to make a major acquisition (besides Karl Lagerfeld, it never found the right company to buy, said Hilfiger) but instead now has become a takeover target. Whether or not the company is sold, its strategy in- cludes opening new Tommy Hilfiger and H freestanding stores, developing new divisions, freshening up the ad campaign (it rehired Toth Brand Agency, the company’s original ad agency, to develop the fall campaign) and fully launching e-commerce (which it did two weeks ago) on its Web site, which was founded in 1999 as a marketing tool. In fact, since David Dyer came on board as president and chief executive officer in 2003, a key focus has been establishing an e-commerce Web site for its products. Prior to joining Hilfiger, Dyer ran Lands’ End, which had a very successful Web site in terms of volume and sary show on the road and will stage fashion efficiency, said Hilfiger. E-commerce is now in full shows in Shanghai on Sept. 16, Tokyo on Sept. 21 swing, and one of the features allows customers to cus- and Seoul on Sept. 23. Hilfiger also plans to visit tom order various chino and denim styles for an addi- Hong Kong on Sept. 18, but isn’t planning a show tional $20 per pair. They can pick out Britney Spears’ there. Each show will feature local models and will the trim, pockets and fit and can have guitar from her be followed by an after party marking the 20th an- personalized khakis within two weeks. first ad niversary. Currently, Hilfiger has freestanding stores In developing the e-commerce site, campaign for in Asian cities such as Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, the company realized it had a lot of Tommy Hilfiger. Yokohama, Fukuoka, Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong, “inconsistent fit issues,” that needed Taipei, Seoul, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. to be addressed. The firm hired fit ex- Hilfiger believes there are still major perts to teach it how to remeasure every growth opportunities in Europe, particularly item it produces. “I think we perfected in Italy where the company recently opened our fit,” said Hilfiger. a sprawling complex comprising offices, an Next week, Hilfiger plans to launch a event space, a showroom and a flagship. new TV ad campaign created by Toth, Spain and Germany are the two best perform- for its women’s and men’s sports- ing countries for the brand, said Hilfiger. wear, and each spot is tagged Hilfiger’s anniversary appears to be a fitting “tommy.com.” While he wasn’t time for the designer to take stock and to re- able to make projections for flect on some of the highlights and low points. the e-commerce business, It’s also an appropriate time for Hilfiger ex- Hilfiger said it represents “a ecutives to figure out where the company is substantial opportunity.” headed, how to strengthen the brand with its Since coming aboard, Dyer core customers, how to recoup lost U.S. busi- has restructured the internal ness and take advantage of significant oppor- workings of the firm; sold one of tunities in Europe and Asia. Equally important its buildings at 485 Fifth Avenue for for the company — and the designer himself — is $48 million; closed the young men’s and how to recapture the lost buzz. H Hilfiger wholesale divisions; cut jobs, and re- Hilfiger said he felt inspired by looking back at the duced costs. The company consolidated its offices at first 20 years. new headquarters at 601 West 26th Street that enabled “That part I’m very proud of. This inspired me to it “to put everything all under one roof and to all feed look back at everything we’ve done. We created a lot of off each other,” said the designer. trends, and advertising and marketing ideas. Therefore, “We had three buildings here and it was all choppy. I’m inspired to do it again in the next 20 years to come.” Now the energy is incredible,” said Hilfiger. “We have Taking visitors through a tour of the rigged show- 300,000 square feet over two and a half floors. And Karl room at 25 West 39th Street highlighting milestones of [Lagerfeld] is on another floor.” There’s also a gymnasi- the past two decades, Hilfiger pointed out some of his um. “For a long time, each division was on its own,” he key accomplishments, namely creating the first over- said. Now there will be more sharing of creativity, he sized shirts for men (“I took preppy and made it cool,” added. said Hilfiger) by using interesting details in the neck Another big opportunity for the company is its over- and collar and the green button hole; doing innovative seas business. With the decline of the U.S. wholesale advertising such as his initial tongue-in-cheek ads com- business and the European growth, the U.S. and paring himself (then a fledgling brand) to America’s European business are now “neck and neck.” The Asian three great men’s wear designers, Ralph Lauren, Perry business has seen some healthy increases over the past Ellis and Calvin Klein, and being the first designer to year. Next week, Hilfiger plans to take his 20th anniver- Continued on page 9

Celebrity dressing group. Blue Rugby is A look a replica of Naomi from the version Campbell’s TTommyommy Snoop Dogg looklook fromfrom thethe Hilfiger’s wore on Tommy Rocks Red, White “Saturday fashion show and Blue Night Live.” inin 2000.2000. Collection. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 Go With the Flow Reyes Some of fashion’s newest names delivered light, airy looks perfect for cool girls everywhere. Ports 1961: Affordable luxury is the company motto for Canadian brand Ports 1961, and designer Tia Cibani knows how to deliver. For her spring collection — her second showing in the U.S. after the brand was relaunched — Cibani took her girl on a jour- ney through Morocco, but rather than the glamour-laden Talitha Getty version, the de- signer opted for a simple and easy take on the fabled North African locale. Cibani played with texture and volume, emphasizing clean lines and subtle details as in her chic, loose-fitting pants and matte sequined tops. The collection, altogether light and playful, made smart use of sober colors and tonal embellishments, and though some looks perhaps referenced Miuccia Prada a tad too literally, Cibani offered a unique lineup sure to appeal to any modern woman.

Verrier: The crowd sipping champagne and sparkling water while studying Ashleigh Verrier’s tableaux vivant of 12 models was comfortably sparse. Nevertheless, it included some retail and editorial heavy hitters — an unofficial signal that a designer is being noticed. And the former Parsons Designer of the TURNER GIANNONNI AND DAVID GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY Year proved that she was worthy of the attention. Verrier is wont to take a bit of vintage new inspiration. This is, after all, a girl whose dog is named Schiaparelli. However, she didn’t belabor her inspirations of Matisse textiles and Twenties york the collection had just the sort of fresh beach culture à la Lartigue. Other than a white- sophistication that seems to be the goal of many and-silver jacquard shift, which immediately made young American designers. Verrier’s strength you think of John-John and the glory days of Camelot, lies in the pieces that easily mix and match into a cool girl’s wardrobe: a classic trench cut in Verrier Naum burlap; baggy, high-waisted shorts, or a white Ports 1961 tuxedo shirt with rickrack-trimmed bib and navy collars and cuffs. The list could continue, and with any luck, so will this designer’s upward arc.

Reyes: In his second collection and first show, designer Jose Ramon Reyes called on all the preppy young sprites who pass their summers out on sailing boats. Greeting guests as they made their way through the tableau-style presentation, Reyes described his muse: “She’s the girl who steals her brother’s navy blazer and wears it out with a really mini skirt.” Said boarding school jacket showed up shrunken with a red seersucker-lined collar, topping wide-cuffed khaki shorts. Reyes, who grew up in the Dominican Republic, covered all manner of staples for the boating set — navy peacoats; cotton bermudas; seersucker dresses and skirts, and airy tunic tops. The literal sailor’s motif could have appealed to a strictly Nantucket crowd, but Reyes gave the sophisticated city girls a reason to buy the clothes, too, by adding sexy cutouts, Empire waists and quirky touches like thin, rough-hewn rope belts.

Naum: The beauty of Waleed Khairzada’s and Julia Jentzsch’s second collection, inspired by desert wanderlust, was in how the garments came alive on the body. There were no frills and no over-the-top fancies, the sort of elements that might make a collection stand out on the rack. But here, it took a figure to notice the precision of cut, silhouette and, most of all, movement at the heart of the label. The lack of straight side seams, for example, let the heavy linens hang with fluidity around the body, whether in a roomy mesh sweater, a relaxed lacquered jacket or a gauze coat — what Khairzada calls, “working completely in 3D.” There were activewear overtures — not to mention notes of Jil Sander (where Jentzsch once worked as an assistant designer) — in some of the looks that fused sharp tailoring with modern, architectural bents and techno materials, such as protective and antibacterial textiles and performancewear.

swings around the block in Lauper’s limo, Miller returned to her florist, into a bar and lounge so cool that many guests were fittings “feeling great,” said a Nicole Miller spokeswoman. dumbfounded when they found out it was really a floral space. Fashion Scoops Wiedemann, who models part-time and was wearing a Blass A TOAST TO FASHION: Fashion is about being up to speed. Just ask jacket that Michael Vollbracht created for her, couldn’t get THE JET SET: The House of Samsonite can add Nicole Richie to the people at ultraluxury vodka brand enough of the environs. its list of frequent-flyer fans. The starlet was out Wednesday Stolichnaya elit. They decided on a lark “This place is so my style,” she said. “It’s minimalist and night at The New Space in Chelsea for the brand’s launch party that they wanted a slice of fashion week yet dark.” for its high-end Black Label collection. excitement, so they cooked up a campaign The New School student was fresh from her first day of “I always carry Samsonite,” she said. “Always. I love the new over Labor Day weekend, tapping Ruben classes. “I came straight from school. It was kind of designs.” Richie, dressed in what she called “vintage” Jill Stuart, Toledo for illustrations and author Mark embarrassing. I had my backpack.” kept company with industrial designer Marc Newson, whose line Welsh for the copy. The campaign depicts She also was sporting a darker hair color. “Do you like it?” of colorful travel pieces comprise a portion of the collection, and the imaginary butler Nikolai, who is a self- she asked Vollbracht. “Because I can change it, if you don’t.” a few friends, including her fiancé, DJ AM, who spun a rocking professed elit-ist (pun intended) and likes He noddingly approved. mix of retro tunes for the more than 325 guests at the event. to dispatch advice to the fashion crowd. The Stolichnaya Unknown to Jamee Gregory, Joan Kaner and Cathy Hardwick, No word on whether or not Richie took advantage of the The first ad focuses on how to spot an elit- elit ad. the floral paintings and framed collages that decorated the night’s VIP giveaway, a Samsonite Fashion Survival Kit, ist, with statements such as “Elit-ists have space were also Vollbracht’s creations. The designer did the complete with a new backpack, goldfish crackers, never met a front row they didn’t like or a velvet rope they couldn’t paintings over the weekend, after proprietor Olivier Giugni mouthwash, mints and blister bandages. navigate” and “Elit-ists tote the new Goyard ‘It’ bag, banishing last mentioned the walls were bare. season’s favorite to wherever former ‘It’ bags go.” The campaign “Remember, I was an illustrator at Bloomingdale’s. I was so NICOLE DOES CYNDI: Nicole Miller decided to use a will launch on style.com today and will run through Oct. 9. A real fast they would give me 13 to do a week for The New York remake of Cyndi Lauper’s hit song, “Money butler is even supposed to make the rounds next week. “Many Times [ads.]” Vollbracht said. Changes Everything,” in the finale of her fashion people tend to aspire to have a butler, someone who knows the Isabella Rossellini said she had no qualms about her show Thursday, after cruising in Lauper’s limo for greatest restaurants, hotels and cities to go to,” said Ian Crystal, daughter getting into the business. “I actually loved modeling,” several hours drinking champagne and listening to brand manager on Stolichnaya elit. she said. “You are very young, and you get to see so many Lauper’s latest CD, which is scheduled to break aspects of the business. You learn so much.” Nov. 8. Lauper, a longtime friend of Miller, arrived FAMILY AFFAIR: Elettra Wiedemann, the star of Bill Blass’ fall Despite her Wednesday night cheerleading, she won’t make unannounced Wednesday at Miller’s headquarters at campaign, can clearly count on her family. At Wednesday’s Tuesday’s show. Rossellini will be at the Toronto Film Festival 525 Seventh Avenue with her entourage at 10 p.m., Nicole Blass party in her honor, Wiedemann was surrounded by her presenting “My Dad is 100 Years Old.” The short film, which she where Miller was in a crush of last-minute fittings Richie mother, Isabella Rossellini, and her aunts, Pia Lindstrom and stars in and wrote the screenplay for, is an ode to her father, the late for her show. After a champagne break and a few Ingrid Rossellini. Blass turned L’Olivier, the West 14th Street director Roberto Rossellini, who would have been 100 next year. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 9 WWD.COM Far From Home NEW YORK — It’s been a long journey, metaphorically and lit- erally, but designer Ashish Soni has finally arrived in New Ashish Soni Yo rk. He recently flew from his home in New Delhi to show his Ashish N Soni collection for the first time here on Saturday. But he says guests expecting a lavish Monsoon Wedding-style sari fest are in for a surprise — because, he says, that’s not what he is about nor is it India’s only aesthetic. “India isn’t just about elephants and snake charmers any- more,” says Soni, 34. “And Ashish N Soni isn’t ‘ethnic.’ ” To wit, there’s nary a sari or choli in his lineup, nor are there the em- bellished textiles for which India is known. Rather, Soni takes advantage of his homeland’s native fabrics in a subtle manner, working delicate, ultra-soft cottons into his minimal ecru, black-and-white vision. “And it’s affordable,” he notes of the jersey tops that whole- sale for $75, a pintucked jacket for $125 and a same-colored embroidered bolero for $300. Soni, a graduate of New Delhi’s National Institute of Fashion Technology, has been designing and selling a less fashion-forward line, Ashish Soni — no mid- dle N — for more than a decade, and now he’s in 49 freestand- ing stores in India. He started showing the line in 2001 during India’s Lakmé Fashion Week. Soni already has New York fans, including Fern Mallis, ex- ecutive director of 7th on Sixth and vice president of IMG, who first saw the collection during India’s Fashion Week in 2001, and last May floated the idea of him coming to New York. As if by kismet, 7th on Sixth’s partnership with UPS, which will sponsor the fourth tent at Bryant Park this season, provided Soni the perfect opportunity to make the trip financially. Saks Fifth Avenue fashion director Michael Fink also discov- ered the line in India. “The clothes were very architectural, very deconstructed,” he says. “And I started thinking, ‘This could be taking place in Paris or Milan.’ It really got me excited.” Soni has also received financial support from New York chic boutique hotelier Vikram Chatwal, and the Indian govern- ment, tapping into its recent Incredible India public relations JOHN AQUINO ASHISH PHOTOS BY campaign, which promotes the country’s business, cultural and technological diversity. But such support aside, Soni knows what a strong runway showing could mean for his business, yet he’s trying not to let it all overwhelm him. “I’m trying,” he says, “not to look at it as the 12 minutes that will change my life.” — Nandini D’Souza

said Hilfiger. “Personally not having my best friend and brother here is a big loss.” During Turbulent Times, Tommy Looks Forward and Back Over the years, Hilfiger has designed costumes for Continued from page 7 $2 billion from $660 million in sales, with international Elton John, David Bowie, Keith Richards, Alicia Keys become so intricately involved with the music busi- expansion, more licensees, children’s wear and women’s and Diana Ross, among others. He said he still designs ness. He also created big logoes on sweatshirts and T- wear starting to grow. It also launched Tommy Girl, and lines for some celebrities, but it’s “not really a business.” shirts and big waistbands with logoes, and was the “de- Tommy Jeans became the number-one jeans resource in “I make certain items for people. There’s no profit signer of choice” when it came to the then-burgeoning department stores. But men’s wear started to feel the in it,” said Hilfiger. hip-hop sector. He also created a Fresh Air Camp for squeeze, and department stores found themselves with Reflecting on past mistakes, Hilfiger admitted that underprivileged kids, recently starred in a reality TV too much product that wasn’t selling. Hilfiger then had to one of the errors the company made was opening up series on CBS called “The Cut” (which hasn’t been re- deal with excess inventory, markdowns and overdistribu- its own stores in malls where anchor stores had siz- newed), sponsored the Tommy Hilfiger at Jones Beach tion of his products in the U.S. Stores began cutting back, able Tommy Hilfiger shops. While some designers be- Theater summer concert series and was among the and the firm’s profitability got hurt. lieve that enhances their business when there are de- first to use celebrities such as Britney Spears, Jewel, Last year, Hilfiger’s wholesale business accounted partment stores nearby with the same products, Lenny Kravitz and Kate Hudson in his ad campaigns. for approximately $700 million in rev- Hilfiger feels there are two schools of “I think using musicians helped the brand. If you enues out of the company’s total of $1.88 thought on that. He said because depart- ask a young person to describe the Tommy Hilfiger billion. Wholesale sales were half of what ment stores take markdowns after 30 brand, they’ll say it’s all American; red, white and blue, they were in 1999. The company issued days, it kills the business in his own spe- and connected to music. I like that music is such as preliminary results for the first quarter cialty stores if they have to mark it down great inspiration,” said Hilfiger. ended June 30 that showed revenues were 30 days later, and the stores become un- The Nineties were admittedly the brand’s heyday, $319 million versus $329 million a year profitable. when it became a favorite of such hip-hop stars as Snoop ago. It didn’t break out earnings, but said “When we pulled H out of department Dogg, Jay-Z and Sean John, and the label was at the fore- it narrowed its loss. stores, which was our choice, not front of hip-hop style. However, the last few years have Ironically, over the years, Hilfiger said Federated’s, we readjusted the line to posed big challenges for Hilfiger, which has seen its core he’s given advice to many of the compa- what it was supposed to be in the begin- U.S. wholesale business erode as its classic customer nies that succeeded him as the kingpins of ning,” said Hilfiger. He explained that moved on to other brands such as Abercrombie & Fitch, the hip-hop world. He said he introduced Federated wanted to redesign the entire American Eagle, Banana Republic and Gap. Russell Simmons to denim suppliers, and line and wanted it less expensive with big “When Snoop Dogg wore the [Hilfiger] hockey jer- Sean Combs (Diddy) actually approached A jacket from color rollouts. “We didn’t want to be an- sey on ‘Saturday Night Live’ in 1994, it blew out of the Hilfiger to do the Sean John collection. “I Hilfiger’s Red, White other INC [Federated’s private label line], stores,” said Hilfiger. “I started making oversized jeans helped him set up five years later and and Blue Collection. and the expectation from their viewpoint and jerseys and starting making the logoes bigger. they became major competitors,” said was not in line with ours,” he said. Puffy, Jay-Z and Snoop Dogg wore it. All the hip-hop Hilfiger. He said he helped Diddy find an apparel Going forward, Hilfiger has upgraded H, and will world was wearing it.” lawyer and his original backers. house it in its own stores, which will begin rolling out But by aggressively courting that customer, Hilfiger While the market is now flooded with these celebri- next spring. neglected his core franchise. ty lines, Hilfiger believes that Sean John, Baby Phat At 54, Hilfiger has no desire to slow down and hopes “We took our eye off the ball,” he admitted. “And a and J.Lo have the most potential. “There is integrity to remain with the company, even it it’s sold. company called Abercrombie & Fitch came from behind their products. They’re very serious about fash- Comparing himself to his friend and idol, Mick Jagger, nowhere and started doing washed oxfords, jeans and Ts, ion, as is Gwen Stefani.” he said, “In this business, you have the opportunity to while we were doing hip-hop. My core business became Hilfiger happens to be a private investor in J.Lo’s reinvent yourself at each stage. Mick Jagger is current- an afterthought. I should have kept it on equal planes.” business, Sweetface Fashion Co., which is run by his ly doing a 55-city tour and he’s 62 years old. After the big rush, he said, “the urban customer brother, Andy. “I like what I do. There are a couple of designers said ‘Goodbye Tommy, I’m going to Ecko, Enyce and “When Andy was working in p.r. here, he’d bring us out there whom I admire tremendously — they’re both Sean John.’ ” He said he then realized he needed to go a celebrity a day who wanted to do their own line,” re- short with white hair. They never stop working. I back to wooing his core customer, who had moved on to called Hilfiger, who said his brother (who helped wouldn’t mind being one of those guys,” added Hilfiger, other specialty brands. Tommy connect to the music world) was dying to back a referring to Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani. “I Between 1997 and 2000, the business mushroomed to J.Lo business. “Now J.Lo is a $300 million business,” wouldn’t choose to not do clothes any longer.” 10 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 International Arrivals NEW YORK — A trio of designers — hailing from Italy, Germany and Australia — touches U.S. soil with diverse new collections.

HARALD To get a quick snapshot of designer Robert Geller’s aesthetic, you might do well to have a look at the walls of his small but tidy studio six floors above the din of the sneaker-and-streetwear emporia of lower Broadway. They alternate between a pale pistachio green just shy of clinical and a very pretty black-and-white toile de Jouy wallpaper. It’s a delicate combination of preciousness and stark utility — a combination that Geller, 29, achieves as well in his debut collection, named Harald. At its inception six months ago, Harald consisted solely of tops. “People are always wearing jeans and then everybody buys tops, tops, tops,” Geller explains. “But then I started putting it together and I thought it really needs to be a finished collection with skirts and dresses.” But no pants — he’s not a fan. Geller tempers his sweet details — scalloped trim on airy knits and Twenties-inspired piping on floppy silk blouses — with a casual sensibility courtesy of a restrained hand, dusty palette and a touch of the sportif. Harald’s full skirts combine multiple colors and fabrics — jersey, washed silk and cotton — and when paired with pieces such as a jersey button-down polo shirt, they never get too ladylike. Geller, who hails from Hamburg, Germany, decided to switch his focus to fashion from photography while in his first year at the Rhode Island School of Design. Over a term break, he did a six-week internship at Marc Jacobs and returned after graduating in June 2001 and working as an intern with the design team on the infamous Sept. 10, 2001 collection. It was there that Geller met Cloak designer Alexandre Plokhov, then working as a pattern-maker for Jacobs. They shared common inspirations: a love of the band Joy Division and the classic, but undone style of English schoolboys. Plokhov left to start Cloak and Geller soon followed. The pair did four collections together before parting ways, mostly amicably. And Geller retains a 50 percent partnership. Geller is now happy to be creating for women. “With men’s wear, you have a limited space to move in. You have to create something beautiful within that bubble,” he says and then continues gesturing with outstretched arms. “With women’s, it’s this big and you have to push it down to create a collection.” The line wholesales for between $200 and $500 and is sold at Fifty Two Showroom, which is owned by yet another Marc Jacobs alum and designer, Ana Lerario. Of course, having worked for such an influential boss inevitably draws comparisons. But Geller doesn’t bristle at the suggestion of a Jacobs influence. “I went to Marc Jacobs because I liked his aesthetic, his materials and colors,” he says. “And it’s the first collection. A lot of my designer friends said to me, ‘Get the first collection out and then take it from there.’ ” — Meenal Mistry

Robert Geller

Katie Holmes in Willow. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 11 WWD.COM

Kit Willow

WILLOW Three days before Melbourne-based designer Kit Willow is due to board a plane headed for JFK to make her New York debut, she seems to be brimming with confidence. “I feel great. I’m not nervous or anything,” says Willow, in the sort of wonderfully throaty, raspy voice that women secretly wish for. Willow, 29, will show at the UPS Hub on Friday, Sept. 16, and it’s the shipping company, in fact, that is transporting most of the collection from Melbourne to Manhattan. She’ll take the show-stoppers in her two suitcases. Willow’s collection may already be familiar to those who trawl Us Weekly and Star Magazine. The casually dressed-up vibe of her beaded washed silk tops have made them a favorite of the boldfaced set: Katie Holmes, Nicole Richie, Kate Bosworth and Cameron Diaz, to name a few. But the designer plays down the impact that such publicity can have. “I really don’t get caught up in all that,” she says. “I don’t ever think, ‘Oh my God, I’ve got to get her dressed in that.’” She holds a business degree from Monash University in Melbourne, rather than one in design. She got her hands into OF THE DESIGNER COURTESY PORTRAIT A CENTENO; KIT WILLOW fashion through a couple of post-college jobs: one at the tony, now-defunct Melbourne boutique George’s doing mer- chandising and p.r., and another working on the design team for a line called Witchery owned by French Connection. But Vivia according to Willow, the commercial bent Ferragamo of the latter drove her to distraction and to VIVIA FERRAGAMO design her own line. She teamed up with She may carry a name that’s synonymous with fine Italian fashion, but Vivia her London-based cousin Sophie Roet to Ferragamo claims she’s not exactly following in her family’s footsteps. “I have launch her collection at Sydney Fashion a different approach to the modern woman [than my family],” says Ferragamo, Week in May 2003. But the distance proved 29, great-granddaughter of the legendary Salvatore. “I’ve lived in many cities. too much. Now Roet, an accomplished tex- I’m drawn to a very young, international and free-spirited woman.” tile designer whose spring styles were Indeed, in her first full contemporary collection, Ferragamo channels snapped up by Alber Elbaz and Alexander the young and fresh in a collection of soft, fun and colorful sportswear. McQueen for their upcoming collections, “This premiere collection was definitely inspired by Brazilian women,” she works with Willow on developing fabrics. says, as she models a few of her samples at Showroom Seven, her new rep- “We’re still totally inside each other’s resentation in the States. “Rio is my favorite city in the world,” she contin- heads,” the designer says. ues, which is apparent in the Carnivale-inspired color scheme that domi- The collection, which wholesales for nates much of the collection. Her range of pieces for spring, from painted between $325 and $500, currently sells at denim pants and skirts in bright floral colors and patterns to slim-fitting Barneys in New York and Beverly Hills, jersey dresses and swimwear, wholesale from $76 to $250. The line also select Neiman Marcus stores and Tracey boasts a strong accessories lineup, which is produced outside of Naples, Ross in Los Angeles. For her spring line- with quirky, oversized bags in either canvas, leather or tweed, and smaller up, there are sure to be more of the girly bold metallic clutches for evening. Perforated leather pumps and peep toes silks that Willow loves. “It has a really in light, contrasting color combinations add a semi-punky element to the Old-World treasure feel to it,” she says. collection. Smaller portions of the designer’s line have previously been Post-show, the designer will be off to sold in stores such as Fred Segal in Los Angeles, Selfridges in London and Mexico for a week with her husband Luisa Via Roma in Florence. of nearly one year, Mark Podgornik, Ferragamo currently splits her time between Florence, London and Los and then to Los Angeles to indulge Angeles. She graduated from The Fashion Institute of Technology’s fashion one of her lifelong obsessions and design program in 1996 before going through Saks Fifth Avenue’s buyer major design inspirations: flea training program and working as an assistant buyer at the company for a markets and vintage shops. “It’s year-and-a-half. Realizing she needed the creative energy of hands-on my first vacation in a year,” she design, Ferragamo headed to Paris to work under Emanuel Ungaro for four says. “I can’t wait.” years. “It was my school,” she says. “He taught me everything I know.”

— M.M. — David Yassky TALAY PHOTOS BY TURNER; VIVIA FERRAGAMO DAVID BY PORTRAIT PHOTOS AND VIVIA FERRAGAMO THOMAS IANNACCONE; WILLOW PHOTOS BY HARALD 12 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 WWD.COM Sienna’s Divine Mercy ● Cornelia’s Animal House ● Jodie Versus Cher

Sienna Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia was there showing Sienna off his great body and golden tan. The prince, you Miller know, is a jewelry designer, the creator of “the new look in pearls” using Salvador Assael’s famous pearls, of course. Along with these are other of his distinctive bijoux, which his fans are already calling heirlooms to be handed down generation to generation, (Good God, Dimitri!) His latest craze is his tiny watch ornaments called “ding-dongs” (don’t you love it?) made of semiprecious stones encrusted with precious diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, etc., and meant to dangle from your wristwatch. Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus and oodles of other luxury emporia carry them. Another Dimitri showpiece made for a San Francisco socialite is an ebony cuff bracelet set with a 20-plus-carat yellow diamond. The last word in hippie chic. Speaking of San Francisco, another guest, Boaz Mazor,would seem to be that city’s darling, if you go by his press. The papers there call him Oscar de la Renta’s “devilishly charming aide-de-camp,” and the ladies who flocked to buy Oscar’s latest collection sold this summer by Boaz at the designer’s summer fashion show at Lake Tahoe just adore him, maybe because he “expertly advises, compliments and cajoles them all.” (Good God, Boaz!) William Ivey Long, the great costume designer, the toast of Broadway and Cornelia’s pal, dropped in for lunch one fine day. You should know he is off to Paris to visit Lee Radziwill before it’s back to Broadway to Cornelia Guest do the costumes for the new Huey Long musical starring Sean Penn as Huey. (Good God, William!) As for Cornelia, she more and more resembles her famous mother, the late fashion Suzy icon C.Z. Guest. As a By Aileen Mehle hostess, Cornelia is superb and her chef, Scoop: Sienna Miller has forgiven Jude Law Colin Shandly, is one of for cheating with his children’s nanny. Ex- the great ones. C.Z. nanny, that is. She has told her close friends would be so proud. eye® she has decided to give their love story ● another chance. Because she understands Jodie Foster,whose Jude’s feeling lonely and vulnerable right now and believes new movie, “Flightplan,” he honestly regrets his bad behavior and worse judgment. will be released shortly, Jodie Foster These close friends say the relationship is now stronger proclaims she would than ever. rather look her age than It is also being whispered that Sienna is pregnant and have plastic surgery. She says she doesn’t want to end up wants the baby. A quiet wedding, possibly around the looking like Cher. “I’m starting to see all the funny holidays before the baby’s birth, is being talked about. But changes, but I don’t want to compete in a losing battle. I neither a firm decision nor a definite date has been set. don’t want to be Cher.” And obviously, Cher doesn’t want Jude has given Sienna her engagement ring back and to be Jodie, either. although she’s not wearing it yet, she has kept it in a safe ● place where she can get to it quickly when she decides the Mayor Michael Bloomberg has declared Tuesday D&D time is right to wear it in public again. Both Sienna’s and Day, so absolutely wonderful interior designers such as Jude’s parents are said to be hopeful the star-crossed Albert Hadley, Joanne de Guardiola, Tony Ingrao, Richard lovers will indeed marry before the baby is born. As Mishaan, Bunny Williams, John Rosselli and Mario Buatta someone once said, “To err is human; to forgive divine.” will join 100 other absolutely wonderful interior designers Jude is lucky Sienna believes that. in celebrating the 40th anniversary of the D&D Building ● with a party on the terrace of the Astra Café. Jamie Drake, Jennifer Lopez and her husband, Marc Anthony, are the mayor’s decorator, has created a ruby red decor in planning to spend more time in New York and have hired honor of the occasion, and Alex Donner and his band will Thom Filicia to decorate Marc’s rambling house on Long gardens (even bigger) are in as perfect shape as a dozen do everything they possibly can to get the crowd on its Island. They just want a comfortable friendly home, you gardeners under Cornelia’s supervision can make them. feet. Eva Dillon, Diana Quasha and Clo and Charles Cohen understand, not anything like Lopez’s showplaces in Los The principal rooms and giant marble entrance hall of will host the evening, which benefits that worthy of Angeles and Miami. Predictably, this is firing up rumors Te mpleton have just been redecorated by Cornelia herself worthies, the Lenox Hill Neighborhood House. Jennifer is pregnant. That began when the star was seen and Todd Romano in a luxurious gold-and-blue style to ● recently buying baby clothes in a Los Angeles boutique. If which Cornelia has been accustomed all her life, only more Jamee Gregory, Mai Harrison, Gillian Hearst-Shaw, she is, you couldn’t tell at the New York premiere of her so. She loves the way it looks and so did her weekend Sharon Bush and Francis Hayward are giving a musical new movie, “An Unfinished Life,” the other night when guests and every one of her 11 dogs, all shapes and sizes featuring the Russian National Orchestra Wind Quintet at she was as slinky as ever in a tight top cinched with a and breeds — Mickie, Goose, Arthur, Jackson, Nelson, the home of Janna Bullock on Monday, an evening prelude tighter belt and an impossible-to-hold-your-tummy-in Pansie, Babe, Lilly, Monkey, Pansie II and Bengi — who to the group’s performance at the opening of the satin skirt with not a bulge in sight. Except for the one just stood around grinning at everything. But never mind Guggenheim Museum’s “Russia!” exhibit on Wednesday. (ones?) that made her famous in the first place. the dogs — if you don’t count the humans, the star of the Among those who are expected to grace the musical are ● weekend was Cornelia’s darling little new donkey, gray such as Kimberly Rockefeller, Patricia Hearst, Muffie The Labor Day weekend was heaven at Cornelia with brown spots, a stand-up mane to match and dreamy Potter Aston, CeCe Cord, Jackie Rogers and Joanna Guest’s estate, Templeton, one of the great houses on eyes. She has the run of the premises and Cornelia has Mastroianni, who is showing her all-white spring collection Long Island. The beautiful house (very, very big) and named her Madonna. in Bryant Park earlier in the day. SIENNA AND FOSTER PHOTO BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; GUEST PHOTO BY BILLY FARRELL/PMC BILLY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; GUEST PHOTO BY SIENNA AND FOSTER PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 13 WWD.COM The Tru Hoffman LOS ANGELES — Philip Seymour Hoffman ambles into the lobby of the Sunset Marquis Hotel with a New York Times folded under his arm. It may not be an especially remarkable detail — Hoffman lives in eye® Manhattan, so naturally enough he’d want to keep up with his hometown paper at a time of national crisis — but here along the hipster corridor known as the Sunset Strip, it is as unexpected as a volume of Latin poetry. Hoffman’s appearance on the Hollywood press circuit would seem to announce — just as surely as New York Fashion Week and opera galas — that fall is here, that season when Hollywood releases its best films in hopes of winning the Academy’s attention next March. His new film, “Capote,” premieres Saturday at the Toronto International Film Festival. In it, Hoffman plays the title role of Truman Capote, bringing to life the 20th century’s most colorful writer with help from first-time director Bennett Miller and screenwriter Dan Futterman. (Hoffman is also the film’s executive producer, the first time he’s taken on that responsibility.) Yes, Hoffman does the “voice” — Capote’s strange, reedy, childish mewl — and his astonishing performance is sure to generate the kind of breathless word-of-mouth excitement Capote himself would have loved. “Somebody made a joke that this would be a two-hour movie about some guy going like this,” says Hoffman, pretending to type furiously at a keyboard. “But that’s the thing about Truman, really, he’s not like that. His life is as colorful as his writing.” But it does focus on the five years the author spent researching and writing his masterpiece, the “nonfiction novel” that would become “In Cold Blood.” As the movie opens in 1959, Capote is literally the life of the party — trussed up in black tie and telling stories, drink in hand, in a paneled Uptown apartment — thanks to the recent success of “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” He’s then seen reading a report in the Times about a brutal murder in Kansas and promptly calls William Shawn, the legendary New Yorker editor, to announce he’s found his next subject. He travels to Kansas with his childhood friend Harper Lee, played by Catherine Keener, and begins to insinuate himself into the mind of the killers, Perry Smith and Dick Hickock, played respectively by Christian Collins Jr. and Mark Pellegrino. “Capote” dramatizes the author’s wrenching obsession to create a literary milestone, and watches his ambition take a dark turn. “The crude way of putting it is that it’s the story of someone losing his soul,” says Hoffman. “I think he got diseased. Something about the spirit — the light — started to become sick. Capote is that person who sees that golden chalice and will do anything to get it.” “In Cold Blood” was published to immediate acclaim in 1966, the same year Capote threw the Black and White Ball. It was, however, the beginning of the end. An ensuing grotesque devolution saw Capote transformed from Great Writer to Tiny Terror, a drunken talk-show personality spurned by the Swans he so loved. All of that, however, comes after the film’s closing credits. (By coincidence, there is a second Capote film to be released this fall, “Have You Heard?” in which Capote is played by Toby Jones and which focuses more on Capote’s high society moment.)

In person, Hoffman looks nothing like the young Capote, the boy wonder. He is SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY shambling and unshaven, and his full beard, redder than his wispy blonde hair, shows evidence of his 37 years — call it salt-and-paprika. Nonetheless, Hoffman physically transforms himself on-screen. When he minces into a Kansas police station to request Capote is that person who sees that golden an interview with police chief Alvin Dewy, played by Chris Cooper, Hoffman’s Capote “ is as recondite and absurd as a show pigeon. chalice and will do anything to get it. The actor studied Capote’s distinctive mannerisms in a short documentary by the ” Maysles brothers, “With Love From Truman,” that was shot when “In Cold Blood” was —Philip Seymour Hoffman published. “So then I just started working on it,” says Hoffman, who at several points in the dinner and he talked endlessly about Truman. They were about the same age, and he interview underscores the workmanlike drudgery of mastering a character. “But you was obviously there in Kansas. That was extraordinarily helpful, but also one of the can’t do just the voice because then you’re mimicking someone. Ultimately this real great, great moments of my life.” person has to become a fictitious person. They’ve got to become a character you’re Later, after shooting had already begun, Hoffman recalls that he suffered a crisis creating like any other character.” of confidence and he turned to director Joel Schumacher, who directed Hoffman in To learn more about the writer’s private self, Hoffman turned to those who knew “Flawless” and who attended the famous Black and White Ball. The actor says he was him, including biographer Gerald Clarke and photographer Richard Avedon, who most grounded by Schumacher’s intimate reminiscences about Capote’s mundane traveled to Kansas with Capote to photograph Smith and Hickock for the New Yorker. life, such as walking the dog late at night. “I had dinner at Avedon’s house,” recalls Hoffman, “a long three or four hour Hoffman did not, though, try to speak to any of the surviving members of the high society milieu that Capote loved before “Answered Prayers” caused his exile. “First off, I didn’t really know where to look,” he explains. “And second, there was a part of me saying don’t go there, because that’s like telling the end of the story. I really had to concentrate on the beginning. So I didn’t want to know too much about what he became.” As he speaks, Hoffman is relaxed and congenial. One imagines that with his pleasantly mellow voice, he would be a splendid dinner companion. But what is most striking about the actor is his exceptionally sensitive mechanism for empathy. As he recalls an early scene in the movie, during which Capote tells of being locked in a hotel room while his mother hit the town, his eyes redden and grow moist. “His childhood was awful,” says Hoffman. “He had this sense of being abandoned, a sense of not being loved, a sense that he would be left kicking and screaming alone in some room somewhere.” And that, says Hoffman, was Capote’s undoing. Both his literary ambition and his personal magnetism — the two seemingly irreconcilable halves of his life as serious writer and society gossip — derived from a desperate desire to keep everyone “in the room.” Hoffman acknowledges that Capote is a morally tainted character, but he can’t bring himself to condemn the stark choices he made while creating “In Cold Blood.” In the end, Capote paid his own price. “He couldn’t help but needing to be loved,” says Hoffman. “When he was getting it, I think he was creatively on fire and potent. And when ‘Answered Prayers’ time came around, he was in grief. He was grieving his goddamned existence from the moment he woke up to the moment he A scene from “Capote.” went to bed.” — Kevin West 14 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 The Beauty Report In the Nude: Ford’s Fi By Julie Naughton and Pete Born The first Ford products for Lauder.

NEW YORK — Tom Ford has summoned the glamour and daring spir- it of Estée Lauder, the woman who put American fragrance and her- self on the map when she launched Youth Dew in 1953. And it’s the naked truth that “it’s the time for the reinstitution of glamour and exclusivity,” Ford told WWD during an exclusive phone interview from his London home on Thursday. “I want to go back to real luxury, the highest quality products. Luxury has gone mass,” Ford said, admitting that he played a major part in that movement at Gucci. “It’s time to change that.” And he’s prepared to lead the charge with Amber Nude, his first cos- metics and fragrance collection for the Estée Lauder brand, coming in early November. Branded under the Tom Ford Estée Lauder name, the 14-stockkeeping-unit collection is relatively pricy: lipsticks retail for $35; an impressively sized bronzer is $60. The eye-catcher of the collection is a $550 gold minaudière, containing a lip polish and a face powder. The 2.5-oz. Youth Dew Amber Nude eau de parfum spray retails for $65, compared with $28 for a 2.25-oz. bottle of the 52-year-old Youth Dew original, which is still being sold. There’s a solid perfume in a gold-toned compact for $150 and an atomizer parfum purse spray with refill for $225. One practical touch is a $35 lip transformer called Lip Polish, which allows a consumer to adjust the tones of the other lip- sticks by layering. Face and eye glosses, designed to be layered over other products and even applied by hand, are $40 each. Nail enamel retails for $25 and face powder is priced at $50. And there’s 24-karat gold in the lip polish and the face gloss: The usual cost-of-goods wor- ries apparently didn’t apply. All of the products in this collection are limited editions, with the exception of the Amber Nude eau de parfum. The Amber Nude lineup will enter a sliver of Lauder’s tradition- al 2,000-door North American distribution in November. Like its predecessor, the new fragrance and its makeup collection will be launched in an old-fashioned way, when businesses were built one specialty store at a time. In early November, the fragrance and make- up will enter 100 doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Holt Renfrew in Canada. In early December, another 125 doors of Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom will be added to the fragrance distribution. In January, the fragrance dis- tribution will add 775 doors. Overseas, select doors in key markets will be added. It will be sold in freestanding Lauder doors in Las Vegas and Manhasset, N.Y., and on the company’s Web site. The North American fragrance distribution will end up at 1,000 doors. “[Amber Nude] is being launched only in specialty stores,” Ford said. “The price points are high because the quality is great; we didn’t want to play the price game. Price shouldn’t be the main component. It’s time for authenticity.” He’ll continue that commitment with a second color collection for the Estée Lauder brand this spring and a freestanding fra- grance and color collection under his own name in fall 2006.

John Demsey, global president of the Estée the initial rollout. While the company does not break Lauder and MAC Cosmetics brands, sees the col- out projections, industry sources also estimate that lection as the first step in a major modernization of the total collection will generate about $5 million at the Estée Lauder brand. Demsey pointed out that retail for November and December in the U.S., Lauder herself was “a woman way ahead of her which is high productivity considering the handful time,” not afraid to break barriers and show what of doors in which it will be distributed. women could achieve at a time when that was gen- After the makeup has been sold out, the 2.5-oz. erally not done. Referring to this effort, Demsey eau de parfum spray will continue to be marketed said that he wants this collection to set the stage for globally. Sources estimate that it will do $30 million the eponymous Tom Ford collection, due in fall at retail in the first eight months of 2006, when it 2006 and “a rethinking of the Estée Lauder brand.” will be rolled out to selected accounts around the But it’s being done with a nod to the spirit of world. Likewise, sources estimated that Lauder Estée Lauder. In fact, Leonard Lauder, Estée’s would spend $8 million on advertising and promo- son and chairman of the company that bears her tion in North America and more than $12 million name, has pointed out that the consumer reac- globally to promote the Amber Nude products. The tion to the original was a major building block magazine advertising, which will appear in Vogue for the company. In fact, in 1960, it accounted for and W (which, like WWD, are both units of Advance 80 percent of the company’s sales, he said. Publications Inc.), begins in December. The updated Ford effort, combined with And with Tom Ford being, well, Tom Ford, nudi- Gwyneth Paltrow cutting a swath through the ty did enter into the equation — both with the first media now with her new Pleasures advertising collection’s name and its advertising visual, which campaign, are creating a major moment for the features Carolyn Murphy wearing the cosmetics Lauder brand. “It’s a statement of who we were collection and little else. and who we are and where we are going,” said “People may look at this ad and say, ‘Oh, Tom Ford Demsey, adding that “the positives [of these —all he does is take people’s clothes off,’ ” Ford said moves] so outweighs the risks.” with a laugh. “[Carolyn] doesn’t have a lot clothes on While Demsey made it clear that he sees the [in the ad, in fact] she’s not wearing anything.” Ford collection as primarily having an impact in Ford pointed out that Lauder also ditched the terms of the brand’s global image, industry clothes for the original Fifties Youth Dew ad, when observers also think that this collection will cre- nudity was even more shocking. “The model in the ate a lot of excitement at the counter — particu- original ad [released in 1953] was also nude,” Ford larly since such small quantities will be available. said. And there’s a reason for that: “Youth Dew has Industry sources estimate that Lauder produced always been one of Estée Lauder’s sexiest fra- only $2.5 million worth of cosmetics and a simi- grances,” he said. larly limited number of eau de parfum units for And Demsey had no problems with the admitted- WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 15

WWD.COM irst Lineup for Lauder ly sexy advertising. “Tom was the ultimate bandleader, ring to the 30 percent oil concentration. “[For Amber cabochon on the cap. and we were his orchestra,” he said, adding that Ford also Nude] we cut the concentration of the fragrance in half, “We went back into the [Estée Lauder] archives and had more than a little in common with the brand’s name- then went back in and added magnolia and ginger to give looked at all of the great Sixties and Seventies compacts sake, Estée Lauder. “She was an American woman with the top notes more sparkle. We retained the vetiver and and solid perfumes,” Ford continued. “They had metal an international sensibility and he is an American man sandalwood [in the drydown]. We wanted people to compacts, not metallized plastic. They were very glam- with an international sensibility,” said Demsey, who smell it and say, ‘Wow, Youth Dew — that smells amaz- orous, as was the life that Estée Lauder herself aspired repeatedly referred to Ford’s “laser focus.” ing,’ not like a different fragrance.” to and led. I wanted to put that level of quality into this Ford’s powerhouse orchestra members also included Amber Nude’s top notes also include fresh tea, grape- collection.” Aerin Lauder, senior vice president of global creative fruit and a bare skin accord; while the heart adds tex- Speaking of the brand’s iconic founder — does Ford directions for the Estée Lauder brand; Evelyn Lauder, tured black rose to the original creation’s red carna- worry about what she would have thought of his collec- senior corporate vice president of the Estée Lauder Cos., tions, jasmine and ylang-ylang. The drydown retains tion? In a word, no. “When I was at YSL, I didn’t worry and Andrea Robinson, chief marketing officer for the Lauder brand. For the fragrance, Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corporate fragrance worldwide, helped Tom was the ultimate bandleader, and we were his orchestra. Ford find the right mix, while Annie Carullo, senior vice “ ” president of global product innovation, played a part in — John Demsey, the Estée Lauder Cos. finalizing the cosmetics. “This is the first time we’ve let somebody come in here and touch all the elements [of the brand],” Demsey said, adding, “We’ve never had a Youth Dew’s patchouli notes, and adds amber, vetiver about what Yves Saint Laurent was thinking, either. You 360-degree approach.” and a dark chocolate note that replaces the original can’t think that way. Other brands that have existed for And Ford, who signed this deal with Lauder in April vanilla in the finish. a long time think [when faced with change], ‘Oh, that to worldwide fanfare, is impressed that the first group Ford noted that some ingredients in the original mix isn’t the brand.’ As I did while at YSL [and Gucci] I tried of products came to fruition so quickly: “Everyone just have themselves changed over the years. “For instance, to think of what the brand stands for, then do a contem- killed themselves to do it on time,” said Ford. the patchouli — which is a major part of this fragrance porary version of that.” There was never a doubt in his mind, however, about — that is used today is much lighter than what was used But it’s likely she would have approved. “If Estée the first product he planned. “It had to be Youth Dew,” in the Fifties. But it was important to keep it in the fra- Lauder were here today, God knows what she would be he said. “My grandmother really did wear Youth Dew. grance because it’s part of the [Lauder] heritage.” doing,” said Ford. “She was the leader of the pack, very My first experience with the Estée Lauder Cos. was with The color also got a makeover: “The original was al- aggressive. People may think that she was conservative, that fragrance, and it’s a fragrance that I’ve personally most maple syrup in color,” Ford said. “This one is an but she was a real innovator,” he said. loved. [However,] in its original incarnation, it might be amber shade.” Leonard Lauder thinks his mother would have ap- a bit heavy for today’s tastes. But at its heart is a very Ford also looked to the brand’s heritage for the proved of Ford’s effort. “Estée Lauder had always part- wearable, sexy fragrance.” compacts and fragrance bottle packaging. “I took the nered with the best talents of every generation, and Ford and his team turned to International Flavors & original bottle and streamlined it,” he said, adding Tom Ford is the top imagemaker of our time,” he said Fragrances, which had produced the original Youth Dew that the original bottle was inspired by a woman’s sil- Thursday. “The collection blends the best of Estée — which many see as the first modern Oriental fra- houette. “Women’s silhouettes in the Fifties were dif- Lauder’s heritage with Tom’s modern approach to style grance — to help craft the new amber-infused version. ferent from today’s, so it made sense to streamline [the and beauty. Mrs. Estée Lauder would have loved this “The original Youth Dew was very concentrated be- bottle]. The color of the bow on the bottle and the way association.” cause it was conceived as a bath oil,” said Ford, refer- it is tied also changed, and we added an amber topaz Ford describes the collection as a marriage of luxury, glamour and clean lines. “It’s very Palm Beach, in a sense,” he said, revealing that “Palm Beach” is the code Tom Ford name for the spring rendition of the Tom Ford Estée Lauder Collection. “It’s the idea that makeup is glam- orous, which we’ve forgotten to a certain extent with all of the minimalism in makeup. I love makeup. I’ve always tried to create a statement with the makeup in my [run- way] shows. “They’ll have a spring feeling,” he teased, regarding the spring 2006 collection, also inspired by vintage Estée Lauder products. “And the packaging is going to be geared for spring. They’re the kinds of things that will look good with a short skirt. But there won’t be a new fragrance with spring.” By contrast, Ford sees the fall collection as “much more about evening,” a point he proved by designing the limited-edition gold minaudière for the collec- tion. Fewer than 700 of the sleek gold-toned clutches will be produced. Ford will begin shooting the spring advertising cam- paign on the 20th of this month. As with the fall collec- tion, the visuals will feature Murphy. “I did that on pur- pose,” he said. “With both the fall and spring ads, I wanted to take Carolyn [who has been the brand’s face for the past four years] and show a different side of her. It’s a much sexier image [than what has been used of Murphy in the past].” While he wouldn’t reveal details of the spring cam- paign, Ford did say he’s rather fond of the fall one. “Car- olyn looks so expensive [in the ad],” said Ford, adding that Murphy is wearing the complete color collection in the visual, which was shot by Craig McDean. “She looks like a bit of toffee — you just want to take a bite of her.” Ford is also speeding full steam ahead with his eponymous fragrance and color cosmetics collection, which will launch in fall 2006. “This has been wonder- ful. One of the reasons I wanted to work with the [Estée] Lauder Cos. is because there is a strong con- nection to its family. Not that other companies don’t have professionalism, but there are still Lauders walk- ing the hall here, and that makes a difference. And John Demsey is great — he’s a major reason we’re doing this with Lauder.” Ford said his favorite product is the atomizer. “It’s probably going to be the last to be delivered because [atomizers] are tough to do. I also like the solid perfume

PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY — not too many people do them.” 16 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 The Beauty Report Mass Industry Helps Katrina Victims NEW YORK — Although donations of soap and beauty products might not be at the top of the list of needs for those who have lost family, homes and pets due to the cat- Wal-Mart is one astrophic conditions left by Hurricane Katrina, they are a start in restoring a bit of of many retailers dignity to those in shelters who have been without cleansing products and personal raising funds for hygiene items for almost two weeks. Katrina relief. To “As the magnitude of the disaster on the American Gulf Coast continues to grow, date, the retailer it’s become increasingly clear that it will be a long time before life begins to return has donated $17 to anything approaching normal in many communities throughout the region,” said a million in cash. statement released by Procter & Gamble, which has approximately 550 employees at four coffee production and storage facilities in the New Orleans region, as well as sales employees in the affected areas. The company has confirmed the safety of about 466 of these employees but is “continuing to try to contact all remaining em- ployees, and has established an employee hot line for them” to contact the company. To date, P&G has donated $1 million in monetary and product donations, includ- ing detergents (dish and laundry), paper products, diapers and wipes, hair care products and toothpaste and toothbrushes. P&G has committed an initial $250,000 for direct employee grants, and will match all employee contributions one-for-one ($1 for every $1 contributed) through Sept. 30. Distributions will be made shortly thereafter. The Iams Co. has also shipped four truckloads of dog and cat food for sheltered animals and strays. For its affected employees, P&G has set up access to $5,000 interest-free loans, a relief fund to provide grants directly to employees and a fund to accept employee and retiree contributions. Unilever United States pledged a product donation of over $2.6 million to aid in the personal care and feeding of those affected by Hurricane Katrina. The company also intends to make a direct cash donation of $1 million to support relief and re- building efforts. It will split its cash donation equally between the American Red Cross and the Salvation Army. Unilever is also working with America’s Second Harvest to get needed supplies to the Red Cross, as well as local shelters and food banks. The company’s immediate product donations include approximately 100,000 Cross for hurricane relief, plus 1,000 care packages, four truckloads of water and bars of soap, 470,000 bottles of shampoo, 12,500 bottles of laundry detergent, 120,000 $200,000 of other food and personal care items. The drugstore chain deployed emer- jars of peanut butter, 110,000 cups of soup, 375,000 cans of ready-to-drink nutritional gency pharmacy resources to Hurricane Katrina victims, such as ice, water and toi- shakes and 720,000 meal and snack bars. Unilever has also set up its own Katrina letries, and staged 30 emergency pharmacy units — stocked with prescription drugs Disaster Fund that allows employees to voluntarily donate to either the Red Cross or and staffed by CVS pharmacists and pharmacy technicians — in impacted areas Second Harvest, with a company two-for-one match. “We are one of the largest con- along the Gulf Coast. The first unit arrived at the Houston Astrodome on Sept. 2. The sumer products companies and wanted to respond by meeting the victims’ most drugstore chain has also converted all Baton Rouge, La., CVS locations to 24-hour basic needs with supplies,” said a Unilever spokeswoman. She added Unilever is stores to accommodate the influx of victims arriving at Baton Rouge shelters. working with the Red Cross to determine what items will best meet their needs. The Rite Aid Foundation has donated $250,000 to the American Red Cross, and in L’Oréal USA donated $100,000 to the Red Cross and is also instituting an employee do- the first few days of collections at Rite Aid stores approximately $500,000 additional nation match fund. A L’Oréal spokeswoman said there are independent efforts under donations have been made. The money aims to help victims, including the 1,500 Rite way on behalf of the beauty company’s individual brands, too. L’Oréal has donated sham- Aid associates affected by the hurricane in Mississippi, Alabama and New Orleans. poo, conditioner and toiletries “at the request of the Red Cross,” the spokeswoman “We are definitely doing our best to assess damage and reach out to our associ- added, and is holding blood drives at various plants and offices. “This is an ongoing ef- ates. We have established a toll-free number for them to call us with any questions, fort and we will keep watching the situation” to determine future donations, she said. such as getting help from the fund,” said a company spokesperson. Revlon has contacted the Red Cross and offered to provide hurricane victims with The retailer, which as of Wednesday morning said 37 stores remained closed in the toiletries such as Flex shampoo and Mitchum deodorant. Additionally, Revlon em- combined areas, is now selling certificates in stores that will be put toward setting up ployees have organized a food drive at the company’s headquarters. shelters for its employees, which will offer running water, a cooking area, food, cots Avon Products and the Avon Foundation have pledged a $250,000 cash donation, and portable showers. Two shelters are in the works now, one in Louisiana and one in and later this month will launch a fundraising effort in which representatives will Mississippi. Rite Aid’s corporate office based in Camp Hill, Pa., has established a sell a Heart of America Key Chain. The silvertone key chain, priced at $5, is in the clothing drive for the shelters, too. Three Rite Aid mobile pharmacy units have been shape of the U.S. with red, white and blue accents and a raised goldtone heart. dispatched to the affected areas to supply prescription and pharmacy services. Proceeds will be donated to hurricane relief efforts. The company is also organizing Walgreen Co., which announced it expects to post undetermined losses of inventory, product donations at its Avon Atlanta facility. property and equipment in the fourth quarter that originally forced the closing of 74 Some of the nation’s best drugstores — especially many of the former K&B units stores in the Gulf Coast states, donated $250,000 to the Red Cross. The retailer will match now operated by Rite Aid — will take months to re-open. Out of all the bad news employee donations up to $500,000 and is donating truckloads of supplies and emergency from the storm emerged much of what is good about the chain drugstore industry: medicines to affected areas. About 49 Walgreens stores currently remain closed. Many were among the first to spring into action to help. Luckily for many beauty firms, the markets hit represented only small portions of According to the National Association of Chain Drugstores, which itself donated sales. “We didn’t have many stores hit by the storm,” said Grant Berry of Styli-Style. $100,000 to the Katrina relief fund spearheaded by former Presidents Bush and The fury of Mother Nature inspired some good from the nation’s retailers. The in- Clinton, Wal-Mart donated $17 million to various relief funds, donated merchandise, dustry looks forward to a rebuilt New Orleans where it can once again gather as it and will fill evacuee scripts at any location; Target donated $1.5 million to the Red did at this year’s June NACDS Marketplace meeting. Cross and has offered Red Cross real estate in Louisiana to establish a central com- — Andrea Nagel, Molly Prior and Faye Brookman mand center, while local stores will provide product donations and grants to local nonprofits; Albertson’s is donating $10 million in aid to victims; Hannaford Bros./Food Lion/Sweetbay will donate $250,000 to the Red Cross; Happy Harry’s is col- lecting donations for the Red Cross and is also contributing $10,000; HEB is partner- Bonne Bell Chairman Dies at 80 ing with America’s Second Harvest Food Banks to coordinate donations and supplies and has loaded five trailers with more than $100,000 of product to be delivered to NEW YORK — Jess A. Bell Sr., 80, chairman emeritus of The Bonne Bell Co., died shelters; Kerr Drug is selling $1, $5, and $10 donation coupons at the register; Brook on Sept. 4 at Lakewood Hospital in Lakewood, Ohio, due to complications from a Eckerd Pharmacy is accepting donations from customers and has contributed trucks heart problem. His funeral is being held today at St. Christopher Church in Rocky of products and supplies; Kroger will accept donations at their stores to go to the Red River, a suburb of Lakewood, with interment following at Lakewood Park Cross and is matching donations from associates up to $300,000; Marsh stores will Cemetery. The company will be closed today in his honor. He is survived by his serve as collection points for Red Cross; Meijer is donating money and has begun to wife of 51 years, Juliana; his sister, Bonne Bell Eckert; his daughter, Julie; his ship truckloads of supplies; Safeway is donating $100,000 to the Red Cross and has three sons, James, Jess Jr. and Joe, and 14 grandchildren. donated 10,000 Red Cross Preparedness Kits; ShopKo is making a donation to the The family-owned company was founded by his father, Jesse G. Bell, in the Red Cross and will be matching dollar for dollar any contributions from ShopKo’s Twenties. Bell took the reins as president in 1959. Under his leadership, the compa- employees; Stop & Shop/Giant is collecting donations at stores on behalf of the Red ny grew rapidly, especially in the Seventies when Bonne Bell Lip Smackers Cross and America’s Second Harvest, donations are being collected in corporate of- achieved cultural icon status as the first flavored lip item on the market. fices and distribution centers; Wakefern contributed $100,000 to the American Red Despite many offers throughout his tenure, Bell refused to sell the company Cross; Longs Drug Stores announced matching contributions to support the and remained committed to keeping it private and family run. The “lover of life” American Red Cross efforts and will match all contributions up to $100,000. and with intense blue eyes is credited with beginning the movement for employing Wegmans is running a checkout donation program with proceeds going to the Red seniors, “long before Wal-Mart had their greeters,” said a company publicist. He Cross, and has made a $100,000 corporate contribution. was also known for his passion for fitness, as he was an avid marathon runner, as Countless stranded travelers getting out of disaster areas told of donations made from well as a member of the Presidents Council on Physical Fitness. Jess “Buddy” drug chains such as CVS. One stricken family praised a CVS manager who was thoughtful Bell Jr. replaced him as chief executive officer in 1999. enough to give some candy to their kids — a welcome treat under the dire circumstances. — A.N. CVS has donated $504,000 in cash and pharmacy products to the American Red WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 17

WWD.COM Sears Returns to Beauty With Essentials Format SOUTH PLAINFIELD, N.J. — A recent tour of the newly merged Kmart/Sears format re- veals what the company considers essential in beauty. Instead of borrowing from either Sears or Kmart, the beauty department is more of a cross between Target and Walgreens. The layout is inspired by discount stores and the selection is reminiscent of a drugstore. Opened here in mid-June, this Sears Essentials store occupies a former Kmart store. Sears Essentials units are off-mall stores leveraging the best of Sears along with key brands from Kmart — Kenmore meets Martha Stewart. The company sees it as a major growth vehicle with 100 more stores planned to open this year and 400 by 2007. Many of the stores are conversions of existing Kmart units. Essentials stores are in 12 states — Arizona, California, Florida, Illinois, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Tennessee and Virginia. When the concept was launched, Sears former chief executive officer Alan Lacy said the new format enables Sears to “grow its brand off-mall.” The smaller footprint allows the company to grow in strip centers as well as lifestyle shopping malls. Neither chain was particularly strong in beauty prior to the merger. Sears ven- tured in and out of the category over the years and retreated almost totally after its venture with Circle of Beauty. Kmart tried several different strategies with cosmet- ics — moving the department away from jewelry and experimenting with various homes in the store design. Kmart tinkered with private label cosmetics, but never established its voice in beauty. In Essentials, Sears appears to have found what it wants to be — a discount-store format offering selection and value. A major focus is on multicultural consumers, es- The beauty department pecially Hispanics. All store signage is in English and Spanish of the Sears Essentials and there’s an ample ethnic hair care department and a big se- store, located in South lection of Milani Cosmetics, a growing brand for women of color. Plainfield, N.J. In designing the beauty area, Sears tossed out conventional Critical Mass Kmart and Sears approaches and adopted a Target racetrack By Faye Brookman approach. In this store, beauty is off to the left of the entrance. $37.99 for a 1.7-oz. eau de toilette. The universal beauty fixturing features a red header to identify The beauty area segues into health and beauty care and in- the brand selection that is as vast as most drug chains. There is a big commitment to cludes skin care, oral care and hair care. Mass and salon brands are carried, including Revlon, as well as more than 12 feet of Maybelline. CoverGirl, NYC, Wet ‘n’ Wild, Fructis and Nexxus, as well as numerous hair color products. L’ Oréal, Max Factor and Colorama round out the color cosmetics selection. On a re- Sears first unveiled Essentials in May. In addition to beauty, which represents less cent visit, there were clerks stocking the department, but not assisting shoppers. than 8 percent of sales, the store has items integral to home and family life, such as ap- One touch borrowed from Sears is the use of upscale glass towers where special pliances, lawn and garden products, tools, electronics, apparel and home fashions. color promotions are merchandised. There’s also a value endcap with featured The other categories are those the company said are routinely purchased as conven- items, such as TRIM nail implements priced from $1.99 to $7.99. ience items such as health and beauty, pantry, household, paper products, pet supplies Fragrances, a department that had survived at Sears, is also well-stocked at Sears and toys. In a sense, the store is divided into men’s and women’s worlds. To the right of Essentials. There are designer minis priced at $12.99. There is an 8-foot department the entrance are electronics, hardware and lawn and garden. The back center is de- of prestige fragrances housed in plastic clamshells to deter pilferage, yet encourage voted to appliances. The left side features pantry and health and beauty care. The self-selection. The assortment includes hot names such as Glow by JLo priced at center is occupied by apparel, which is a step up from traditional Kmart fare.

The space at Saks, which occupies “We have high hopes for rolling out converted stockroom areas, is set for a the concept to other stores,” said Jen- Saks to Open John Allan’s Space soft opening during the third week of nings. The next opening of a John Allan’s September, then for an official unveiling space at Saks is planned for the retailer’s NEW YORK — Betting that significant so-called John Allan’s “clubs” on 46th during the second week of October. Chicago store, which could open during growth rates in the men’s prestige groom- Street and Trinity Place in Manhattan. The space will feature six chairs, in- the second quarter next year. Also, a West ing category are more than a bubble, Saks “I said, ‘We have to have it,’” Saks’ cluding one located in a private room. A Coast location is said to be in the works, Fifth Avenue is one of the latest retailers president and chief operating officer separate treatment room will offer facials possibly in San Francisco or Los Angeles. building up a men’s grooming area sepa- Andrew Jennings noted during a recent and pedicures, and shampoo, condition- Regarding moving men’s grooming to rate from the main beauty floor. interview, discussing his reaction during ing and cutting services will be available. the seventh floor nearly a year ago, “It’s First, Saks created a 1,000-square-foot a visit to a John Allan’s club. Jennings One highlight of the John Allan’s space been hugely successful,” Jennings said, men’s grooming space last fall on the sev- said he thought: “It’s an innovative and at Saks will be an 800-square-foot area “indicating men want to have [it] all in enth floor of its Fifth Avenue flagship unique concept, so let’s test it in our flag- called the “closet,” which will be manned one area.” He added that plans call for here, a primary location for most of the ship store. by a store employee amassing apparel the merchandising area to be moved men’s products merchandised there. “It’s the ultimate experience,” Jen- from multiple categories, styles and labels adjacent to the new club. Now, the chain has partnered with nings said of the planned Saks-John for clients while they receive services. Like Saks, Holt Renfrew in Canada stylist and barbershop-salon proprietor Allan’s concept, “an area of discovery Just don’t call it a person- has taken a number of steps John Allan Meing to open a 1,500-square- where a guy can come and have a com- al shopper. to create separate areas ded- foot concept also in the seventh floor’s plete makeover [including] hair, nails “I call it a personal serv- icated to merchandising men’s department, a shop inspired by the and pedicure in a clubby environment.” ice rather than a personal men’s grooming in its stores shopper,” said Allan, who typ- and the retailer is close to ically drops his Meing sur- opening similar John Allan’s A rendering of the services area at the planned Saks-John Allan’s concept. name. “Men aren’t into per- concepts in three locations. sonal shoppers.” Allan said that retail con- A database will record cepts are important for the customer information, such John Allan’s business, which as measurements and birth- sources project could reach days. “We’ll expertly deliver personalized $20 million in net sales by the end of style to our customer,” Jennings re- 2007 and have 11 freestanding locations marked. “It’s a great, natural fit for us.” in three countries. Shoeshine stations will be located “I’m not sure it’s a positive for 50 dif- near the entrance of the closet. Other ferent [men’s] brands to be on counter highlights of the space will include sec- and that’s what led me to change my di- tional sofas, a 400-gallon aquarium and rection from product distribution to coffee and martini bars. these concepts.” A John Allan’s product While neither Jennings nor Allan line, which includes shaving, hair and would divulge sales projections, industry skin care items, is expected to reach a sources estimated the John Allan’s space wholesale distribution base of 150 to 200 at Saks’ New York flagship could reach doors by the end of next year. annualized volume of at least $7 million, “It makes sense,” said Allan, “to go with services alone accounting for $2 mil- back to existing doors and to see if we lion of that total. can get deeper into them. The race to Executives at both companies expect 1,000 doors of distribution is not the an- the concept to draw between 1,000 and swer in men’s.” 1,200 customers. — Matthew W. Evans 18 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 The Beauty Report Prevage Makes Prestige Debut NEW YORK — Elizabeth Arden and Allergan are hoping to turn back Elizabeth Arden. In stores where the Arden and Prevage brands coexist, time this winter — or make it look like their consumers have done so, they will be merchandised on separate counters, said Beattie. anyway — with Prevage, an antiaging skin care serum. Park added that the new prestige market version has additional antiox- Launched last fall in dermatologists’ offices by pharmaceutical giant idants, including green tea, and a brightening complex. And while the Allergan, Prevage is said to have rung up retail sales of $15 million in its first original was more ointment-like, the new version has a serum consistency. seven months. The main component in the antiaging treatment is idebenone, A 1.7-oz. metal airless pump bottle will retail for $150. a benzoquinone compound that is said to be a powerful topical antioxidant. While neither Beattie nor Park would comment on projected sales in Spurred on by its success in doctors’ offices, Allergan — which also the product’s new channel of distribution, industry sources estimated that manufactures Botox — then started looking to expand its reach into the Prevage could do $50 million at retail in its first year in U.S. department prestige beauty market, “but they didn’t have department or specialty and specialty stores. National advertising will begin breaking in store expertise,” noted E. Scott Beattie, chairman and chief executive of- December fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, and about 200,000 ficer of Elizabeth Arden Inc. deluxe miniature samples will be distributed. As well, a product Web site, That led to a comarketing deal between Allergan and Elizabeth Ar- prevageskin.com, is being readied, intended to educate consumers about den, inked in May, which gave Arden rights to the Prevage name and its the benefits and clinical results of the product. main ingredient, idebenone, in every market globally except dermatolo- Prevage will hit department and specialty stores outside the U.S. begin- gists’ offices. ning in March. A repackaged and reformulated version of Prevage, with a 0.5 percent Allergan will continue to sell Prevage in dermatologists’ offices under concentration of idebenone, will bow in December in about 2,000 depart- the moniker Prevage MD. The doctor version contains 1 percent ideben- ment and specialty store doors. About 1,500 are doors in which the Arden one; its revamped packaging bowed this week. brand is currently sold, although Prevage also will be sold in doors that do Beattie noted that future Prevage products codeveloped by the two not carry the Arden brand — including Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf companies are likely, but declined to offer further details. The soonest Goodman, Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom, noted Elizabeth Park, senior such products might appear would be sometime in 2007, he said. vice president of global marketing, skin care and color cosmetics, for The new prestige, Prevage. — Julie Naughton Matrix’s Vavoom Rides MAC Updates Media Lounge for Fashion Week NEW YORK — As New York Fashion Week kicks off, On the Glamour Side MAC Cosmetics is seeing red — with the re- designed MAC Immediate media lounge swathed in By Andrea Nagel Jessica the vibrant color. Alba NEW YORK — Vavoom’s rep- “Red is a signal that there is something immedi- utation as an Eighties hair- ate going on,” said James Gager, senior vice presi- styling brand with incredible dent and creative director for MAC, who designed volumizing and hold proper- the space with architect Harry Allen. “It will make ties has endured for almost us stand out in a fresh, new way.” 20 years: Its staunch results While the Estée Lauder Cos.-owned brand has made it an easy sell by styl- prominently featured its lounge (usually designed in ists, despite a lack of market- the requisite, fashion-y black) in the tents in Bryant ing, attention or hype from Park for the last three seasons, this time around, its parent, Matrix. MAC executives imagined a new space, both in But the return of Holly- terms of the visual effect and the services offered. wood glamour and volumi- The redesigned lounge includes a circular, more so- nous hair has inspired the cial feel, a cappuccino machine, LCD monitors and U.S.’s leading salon division areas where editors can check their e-mail and chat to give Vavoom the star treat- online with MAC makeup artists. ment, complete with an esti- Another new feature of the lounge will be more mated $500,000 integrated of a day-to-night presence, with espresso and coffee marketing effort, according served during the day and complimentary glasses of The MAC Immediate media lounge.

to industry sources, which WEISS JAYE SARA PHOTO BY Veuve Clicquot champagne to sip at night. On over 150 shows — and it’s just a progression in includes sponsorship of several high-profile celebrity-at- Thursday, DJ Sky Nellor will spin at the lounge. And terms,” said Demsey of the brand’s new front-of- tended events over the next six months. In addition, new keeping with the celebratory spirit, MAC will host a house presence in Milan. He added that MAC also packaging, formulations and products could push party Saturday for Brazilian designer Rosa Chá at would “love to move into Paris” in the future. Vavoom’s first-year sales to $30 million, up 25 percent the Cabanas of the Maritime Hotel. In addition, former Viva Glam spokeswoman from last year, according to industry sources. Prices of While the new lounge design also will be fea- Linda Evangelista will host a Viva Glam cocktail products also will go up $1, and an ad campaign is in the tured during London’s fashion week, where the event on Sept. 18 during the London shows, where a works for 2006. company returns for its second season as an official donation will be made to an Indian AIDS organiza- Vavoom’s red-carpet debut kicked off Aug. 28 when it sponsor, MAC will make its sponsorship debut dur- tion on behalf of British designers. Evangelista also teamed up with Us Weekly magazine to sponsor the Video ing Milan Fashion Week, as well, according to MAC is scheduled to walk the runway for new designer Music Awards, hosted by Jessica Alba. On Sept. 7, the global president John Demsey. Giles Deacon’s show. During Milan Fashion Week, brand sponsored and styled hair for In Style magazine’s “We’ve long been a backstage resource from the Demsey said, Pamela Anderson is scheduled to ap- Clothes We Love show at the Time Warner Center in brand’s inception — in New York alone, we support pear in support of Viva Glam, as well. Manhattan. Today, Vavoom is in California to sponsor the over 55 shows; in London, Milan and Paris we have — Bryn Kenny “Desperate Housewives” DVD release party at the Viceroy Hotel in Santa Monica. And finally, on Sept. 22, the hair care brand will head back east to sponsor Cosmopolitan magazine’s 40th birthday bash, treating servers at the party to free styling sessions. Deborah Marquardt, assistant vice president of commu- Pantene Plays Up Reality for the Masses nications at Matrix, which is owned by L’Oréal USA, said sending Vavoom down the red carpet instead of backstage NEW YORK — Pantene, New York Fashion Week’s While much of fashion week revolves around at New York Fashion Week was deliberate, since she be- exclusive hair sponsor, has several efforts planned fantasy, Pantene is looking to bring a little reality to lieves the brand is better positioned as one that’s tied to for the eight-day event, which kicks off today, to the masses. Beginning this month, Pantene is hold- Hollywood glamour than to fashion. lure some of the most influential style authorities. ing a sweepstakes on its Web site, pantene.com, Three new products include Extra-Full Freezing Spray The world’s leading hair care brand, with sales where one winner will receive a three-day, two- ($13.95), Sheer Size Volumizing Gel ($12.95) and Size Me Up close to $2 billion, is setting up a Pantene Pavilion, night trip to New York along with two guests to at- Finishing Spritz (12.95). Vavoom’s original products, Hold a place where show attendees can receive personal tend a Pantene-sponsored show at New York My Body Forming Gel, Smooth Me Smoothing Gel and hair consultations with stylists. Pantene gift bags Fashion Week in February. The prize includes air- Height of Glam Volumizing Foam and Freezing Spray, will will be distributed here, too. fare, hotel and spending money. For stylists, Pan- remain in the collection. A fourth item, Take Me Higher In addition to taking center stage at fashion tene is holding a styling competition where one win- Root Riser ($13.95), launches to salons in January. week, Pantene is sponsoring Gwen Stefani’s first ner will get the opportunity to style hair for a Vavoom’s new black-and-red packaging aims to be provoca- fashion show, L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani, making its Pantene-sponsored show in February. The winner tive, since “sexy hair is in,” Marquardt said, while formulas debut Sept. 16. Hairstyles for the show will be led and a guest will be flown to New York and given “take on a new interpretation of movement, without being by stylist Danilo, who is also Stefani’s personal hotel accommodations and spending money. sticky or tacky,” she added. hairstylist, as well as Pantene’s celebrity stylist. — A.N.

20 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Media-o-Meter: In Style vs. Marie Claire

NEW YORK — At different moments in the Nineties, Robin Steinberg, senior vice president direc- to exactly where we need to be.” Marie Claire and In Style redefined the women’s maga- tor of print, MediaVest, a major media buy- ● “We still have shopping pages, but we all zine sector. But then both magazines lost key editors — ing agency do our research. You can watch the Marie Claire’s Glenda Bailey went to Harper’s Bazaar ● “I think In Style is hot and it will interest wane....The only thing and In Style’s Martha Nelson left for People. Competitors continue to be hot. I don’t want to call that sets [Marie Claire] apart is mimicked important elements of their brands. And the it a redesign, but it’s been updated, the world, the fact that our read- celebrity weeklies began dominating on newsstands. refreshed. It has energy. Moving for- ers do have a worldly perspective. In the first half of 2005, Marie Claire’s single copy ward it’s going to continue to They travel a lot or they come from sales, the best barometer for a magazine’s health, were thrive. It’s still the brand that different countries. So we added down 11.8 percent to 489,544. For the same period, In advertisers turn to first.” the ‘You & Your World’ section at the Style was down 7.3 percent to 865,003. front-of-book.” So how have these titles evolved to try and stay ahead of MaryJane Fahey, partner, Fahey ● “I think [newsstand] dips come and their audiences? For starters, both magazines turned to the O’Connor Design, a firm that spe- go. We’ve got a great second half com- men’s sector for art directors in recent years. In January cializes in magazine, book ing. The celebrity saturation thing is 2004, Marie Claire hired GQ’s Paul Martinez, who executed and catalogue design something we’re all going to have to a total redesign. A year later, In Style brought John Korpics ● “I was concerned about the figure out.” over from Esquire for a less extreme makeover. possible masculinization of the Here, in a new occasional feature, top editors weigh product [under Korpics], but MaryJane Fahey in on adapting their titles while the experts rate their from the moment he arrived, ● “I hate the covers with the crazy bright progress by looking at the most recent issues. the covers stopped looking plastic. colors. But inside, I think it’s a more mod- He’s very smart. He hasn’t shifted too much ern approach. Aren’t we all sick to death of IN STYLE in the typography. He’s done a great job girly? And I’ve never seen their photogra- Charla Lawhon, managing editor, In Style with the pacing, how not to make that phy look so damn good. It’s always had a ● “[John] got in touch with his feminine side very early on. whole back section feel like a taga- fun cheesiness to it, and it doesn’t have Before he started, he’d send me a layout and it had pastel long. I think it’s going to do really well. that now. It’s not sophisticated, but it is colors in it with a note that said, ‘I’m already thinking about Not that it hasn’t, but it’s looked sort of better looking.” In Style.’ But he’s not wearing tank tops to the office yet.” flat for a while, and I think what John’s ● “I think that things are more noticeable now. We took doing is bringing an energy to the maga- Robin Steinberg the well and moved it up. Before it was buried so far in zine, so that’s where I’d put my money. I ● “Marie Claire, it’s in the race, but the back of the book, readers would get fatigued.” just think it’s going to kick a--.” I’m not sure where it’s going to fin- ● “We can’t do what the weeklies do. We’re not going to ish. Is radical always good when we beat them on the [celebrity] news front. And we don’t par- MARIE CLAIRE refresh and refocus? You don’t ticularly want to....We have to approach the subject matter Lesley Jane Seymour, editor in chief, want to freak out the reader. And in a way that’s completely true to In Style. The [‘What’s Hot Marie Claire you certainly don’t want to do that Now’] gazette portion has to be true to its name. So, we’ll ● “What I wanted to do was break the sort to the advertisers. The celebrity be reporting on everything covered in the magazine, fash- of women’s vernacular in design because I magazines are eating at this ion and beauty, entertaining.” really felt there was a lot of preconception audience. Along with the ● “Do I love where we are with newsstand right now? No. about what women’s magazines should look Lucky’s and the Shop Etc.’s, Am I worried? I am not. All monthlies are affected by the like. Men’s magazines tend to be more sophis- that’s where I think there’s a onslaught of the weeklies and what’s happening at the ticated in general. I thought [Paul’s design] shakiness in this category. [Marie supermarkets. There are candy bar displays, drink would be fresh and in the direction I wanted to Claire is] going to have to do some more machines, battery packs hiding the racks. I keep moving go in.” research and find out what the woman in this target them. I’m going to get thrown in jail in Nassau County one ● “In the beginning, we went a little too dark [with wants to read about and how they can be different. But of these days.” the design], a little too cool. But we worked our way back they were a true leader in the beginning.”

reviewed the show. “I give it a B+,” he was not coming (she was down on the Gulf close friend of Florio’s during her years at shrugged. So what would’ve earned it an A? Coast), and the biggest celebrity on hand Condé Nast, but the two drifted apart after “Where’s my girl, Naomi?” he asked, frowning. was Lindsay Lohan, who arrived around 9:30 she was relieved of her post as executive MEMO PAD Naomi Campbell wasn’t among the models only to disappear immediately behind a vice president of corporate sales in 1999. It traipsing the catwalk, though perhaps she curtain with her p.r. and two hangers-on. was philanthropy that brought them back TIME WARNER TROIKA: It was certainly the should have been. No fewer than three of Safely ensconced in the green room, Lohan together, she said. “I founded a charter most eclectic front row many had seen at a the clearly inexperienced young women signed the occasional autograph and school in Harlem called the Village New York fashion show in recent seasons. In working on Wednesday had trouble with their answered questions in a surprisingly raw- Academy,” she said. “He’s just helping with Style’s “Clothes We Love” event on high heels. sounding voice. “I’ve been the fund-raising.” (Their other lunch Wednesday at the Time Warner Center, a “I was sitting down singing a lot,” she said by way companion, whom she declined to identify, presentation of fall looks spanning Banana front with my heart in of explanation. “It’s OK, was there to discuss the same thing.) Republic and Versace, drew a few television my throat,” said because my voice is supposed Viscardi Johnston — who, with her husband, stars such as Mariska Hargitay, Denis Leary Parsons, who to be raspy for the song I’m Doug Johnston, runs a consultancy that works and Cynthia Nixon and several of the presumably had his doing now. We’re doing a on magazine launches — said she and Florio designers in the show, namely Vera Wang and arms ready to catch bunch of stuff. Some of it’s don’t see much of each other these days. Peter Som. But the real interest added to the anyone who took a very Fiona Apple, some is very “Every once in a while we say hello.” — J.B. seats facing the stage came from a trifecta of spill. — Sara James Linda Perry or The Cure.” She Time Warner and Time Inc. executives. said she planned to take time REPRIEVE: Circulation executives haven’t Time Warner chief executive officer ELLE-EBRATION: Across off to attend several shows been receiving much good news lately, but Dick Parsons fiddled with his Blackberry town, at this week, naming Marc they got some Wednesday after the Audit until the lights dimmed, then chair- Bloomingdale’s, Elle Jacobs, Zac Posen, Calvin Bureau of Circulations’ board voted to danced once the music started. Seated was ringing in New York Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. postpone the effects of several rule changes next to him was chairman of Time Fashion Week with a Some time later, West governing sponsored subscriptions. The new Warner’s media and communications party of its own, which took the stage for a half- rules, which limit the conditions under group Don Logan, who brought his wife, also doubled as the hour set. The rapper, who which subscriptions underwritten by a third- Sandra, and sat still as a Buddha as the magazine’s 21st lashed out at President Bush party sponsor can be classified as paid, models waltzed by. Asked if he had ever birthday bash. The during NBC’s telethon on were previously scheduled to go into effect been to a fashion show, Logan replied, sidewalk outside the Friday, disappointed those next January. Consumer marketing directors “Don’t tell anyone. It was my first.” store’s Lexington hoping for another such complained that changing the rules this way On the north side of the stage, Time Inc. Avenue entrance was a Lindsay outburst, but did impress amounted to ex post facto punishment, editor in chief Norman Pearlstine was with his mob scene, as the Lohan Elle editor in chief Roberta since most magazines already had sold bride of four months, Jane. “I thought it was Upper East Side locals PHOTO BY DIMITRIOS KAMOURIS/WIREIMAGE Myers with his attention to subscriptions extending well into next year. extraordinary they could get so many crowded the barriers to gawk at red-carpet detail: “He felt my dress and said, ‘Is this “You would have had to, in a sense, replace designers on the runway together,” he said arrivals. A workman in a reflective orange wool?’” — Jeff Bercovici the business you hadn’t even finished after the show. Pearlstine was off to the vest tried unsuccessfully to keep the foot serving,” said one. By agreeing, in essence, Toronto Film Festival next, and said he would traffic moving. “The biggest celebrity they JUST LIKE OLD TIMES: It was like a scene out to “grandfather” in sponsored subscriptions be back in town to see the Anna Sui and have is Katie Couric, and maybe Kanye of the publishing past at the Four Seasons sold prior to July 18 of this year, ABC’s Ralph Lauren collections next week before West,” he told a crowd of rubberneckers. on Thursday, where Condé Nast vice board has given publishers some much- he heads to the annual Fortsmann Little “Not to put them down, but it’s not really chairman Steve Florio was spotted having needed time in which to undertake what will summit in Aspen. worth hanging around just to see.” lunch with Catherine Viscardi Johnston and an be, in many cases, a major overhaul of their Parsons, evidently a fashion veteran, He was wrong about two things: Couric unidentified man. Viscardi Johnston was a subscriptions files. — J.B. ©2005 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Have a brilliant weekend is a trademark of Dow Jones LP. 22 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 Obituary WWD.COM Fond Memories of Donald Brooks Augusto Allegri, 68, By Rosemary Feitelberg Comden, Richard Kiley, Art Carney and Jerry Orbach and working with directors José Ferrer, NEW YORK — Donald Brooks, a designer who George Abbott, Jose Quintero and Mike Nichols. Outerwear Pioneer proved his mettle in fashion, film and theater, was Gilman credited him with being among the first remembered by friends and relatives Wednesday designers to cross over to the performing arts. By Alessandra Ilari for his acerbic wit, far-reaching creativity and gen- Kathleen Maggione, who curated the 2003 erous spirit. Brooks retrospective at Parsons School of Design, MILAN — Augusto Allegri, who helped turn outerwear into a cool All in all, it was the kind of occasion that would recalled that, during the Eighties, he designed a fashion moment with edgy designs, died Tuesday night at his house have won Brooks’ approval. The crowd at the wedding dress for Nancy Friday, who married in in Vinci, near Florence, at age 68. The cause was cancer. Frank E. Campbell Funeral Home was greeted Manhattan’s Rainbow Room with Peter Duchin Allegri was vice president of Dismi 92, the Tuscan company that with peppy Broadway tunes and recalled the ups playing the piano and Peter Allen singing — an as- produces Allegri rainwear and outerwear, just like his sister and downs of an American original. signment Brooks couldn’t resist. Lace was scarce, Dianora Allegri, who will now take fuller control. Brooks, who helped create the “American so he and Friday scoured the city for a week in the Their cousin, Pietro Allegri, is Dismi 92’s chairman. Look” in fashion in the Fifties and Sixties, died at summer heat for “suitable yardage,” capping off An erstwhile family affair, the company was founded in the late age 77 last month. each night with a drink at the Russian Tea Room. Sixties by Allegro and Renato Allegri. In addition to its own collec- Hal and Judy Prince, Dominick Dunne, Liz In the end, the nightly reprieve provided the solu- tions, which linked with numerous designers through the years, Smith, Nancy Friday, Michael Vollbracht, John tion — their Rumanian waitress agreed to put her Allegri is the outerwear licensor for Armani and Neil Barrett. McMartin, Charlotte Moore, Jeane Eddy, Joe Hardy, sewing skills to use, Maggione said. Notwithstanding his introverted personality, Augusto Allegri be- Ray Crespin and Robin Lawford were among those Brooks’ friend of 40 years, Bernie Owett, a former came the company’s official spokesman, explaining its strategies to who sat shoulder to shoulder. While reading from art director at J. Walter Thompson, described meet- retailers and the press. one of Brooks’ favorite plays, “The Front Page,” ing the designer at a Richard Avedon shoot. They “Over the years, raincoats have become part of everyday life and Milton Greene’s wife, Amy, referred to “mourning both loved Manhattan, Broadway musicals and old are seasonless fashion items,” he told WWD in 1997. the passing of the moonstruck gentry.” The design- movies — “the more glamorous, the better.” Owett For him, that meant developing a series of high-tech and per- er had become part of the Greene’s lives, she said. also remembered Brooks for his favorite colors, formance fabrics like “plume,” a supple microfiber with feather A few speakers, including Brooks’ brother-in- black and yellow, and “his own brand of dry wry particles that doesn’t wrinkle, is waterproof and allows the body to law, Edward Blick, recalled how the designer humor,” he said. breathe, along with waterproof cottons treated to look like leathers “liked to do things in a big way,” whether over- It was Gerald Blum, former executive vice and a butter- soft microfiber that feels like suede. hauling an Upper East Side town house, doting on president of Lord & Taylor, who seemed to cap- It was this mix of technical materials and edgy designs that built a niece with an enormous dollhouse that overtook ture all Brooks’ habits and charms. He remem- Allegri into a major brand with sales of $68 million in 2004. Over her bedroom or working in fashion and film. bered how the designer would whip off sketches the years, Augusto Allegri and his family tapped such designers as When Brooks volunteered to create the wedding for a fur collection in the back of a cab minutes Giorgio Armani, Romeo Gigli, Katharine Hamnett and Martin canopy for his sister, Kay, she and Blick assumed he before they were to be presented. Despite the last- Margiela as creative consultants. Most recently, it was Antwerp duo would pick up the tab, as well — until a bill arrived minute crush, Brooks drew from his own inspira- Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst, better known as A.F. Vandevorst. in their mailbox after the honeymoon, Blick tion for his inventive prints, unusual color stories “We wanted collections that rang with a clear fashion message laughed. But he was quick to note that Brooks re- and signature designs. “As an American designer, and we picked A.F. Vandevorst because they are in line with our paid the favor many times over. he never relied on Paris, Milan or that kind of idea of elegance, refinement and quality,” Allegri said about their In a letter read on behalf of American Theatre thing, as many designers do,” Blum said. appointment in 2004. Wing chairman Sondra Gilman, an ATW colleague He also spoke of Brooks’ quirks, describing a That same year, the company invested $14.5 million to build a said Brooks worked on 21 shows over a 20-year man who despised flying, loved Twinkies, Hershey 61,000-square-foot headquarters with annexed state-of-the-art plant span, costuming stars such as Carol Burnett, bars and actress Gene Tierney — so much so that he and to renovate a palazzo for its Milan base. Shelley Winters, Liza Minnelli, Lillian Gish, Betty watched “Laura” 70 times, maybe 80. “We may not have chosen the best timing for these investments but we still believe we did the right thing, both design-wise and lo- gistically,” Allegri explained at the time. Funeral services were held Wednesday in the Basilica in Empoli. Augusto Allegri is survived by his wife, Adriana, his daughter, Claudia, and son, Giovanni. Did you get the SCOOP? USTR Wants Deal With China, Won’t Give Up on Safeguards

By Evan Clark worth of Chinese imports to 7.5 percent growth for the rest of WASHINGTON — U.S. Trade this year. Safeguards can be re- Representative Rob Portman newed through 2008. A decision wants to cut an apparel and tex- on four more petitions has been tile import deal with China, but delayed until Oct. 1. won’t sign away the right to China has pushed for a deal counter import surges. that ends in 2007 and allows for “The United States is ab- significantly higher growth lev- solutely going to walk away from els than safeguards, while the a bad deal,” Portman said dur- U.S. wants a deal to lock in ing a briefing with reporters on lower growth levels that last Thursday. “We are not going to through 2008. give away our ability under the The negotiations, however, are [World Trade Organization] ac- just part of the U.S. trade agenda. cession [agreement] with China Portman is also trying to build to be able to exercise the safe- momentum in the WTO for a guards when there’s a surge.” December meeting in Hong Kong American and Chinese nego- that is supposed to work out how tiators wrapped up a fourth the Doha Round of global trade round of talks in Beijing last week talks can be brought to a success- without reaching a deal, but an- ful conclusion by the end of 2006. other meeting will be scheduled. The Doha Round, aimed at fur- “I’m optimistic about a com- ther liberalizing international prehensive agreement with commerce, including reducing China because it makes sense global tariffs, has been stalled for China and for the United since 2003. For more copies, States,” Portman said. “It has the potential of improv- A deal that produces a pre- ing the lives of Americans and dictable level of Chinese appar- others in the developed world call (800)289-0273. el and textile imports is desired substantially,” Portman said. because it would simplify busi- Studies show the elimination of ness plans for importers, retail- global trade barriers could lift 300 ers and domestic manufacturers. million to 500 million people out of The Bush administration has poverty worldwide over the next ® WWDMediaWorldwide acted on nine safeguard peti- 15 years and boost annual incomes tions, restricting $1.9 billion of a typical U.S. family by $7,800. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 23

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PRODUCTION COORD/ Brand Marketing SPEC TECH DESIGNER ASSISTANT Fast paced womenswear manufacturer Coordinator Leading garment importer seeks an seeks spec tech person to spec dresses Weare G+G, Rave, and Rave Girl, MEN’S T-SHIRTS organized and self-motivated applicant and sportwear items for private label 57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft. known by girls everywhere as the store Graphic Designer/Illustrator– with 3 yrs experience in ladies’ woven/ accounts. Must have minimum 1 year Soho Penthouse live / work skylights "where real girls get cool clothes at knit garment production. Must be PC experience in import experience and Bryant Park Duplex - All Great Deals great prices." Central Jersey Art Dept. literate (Excel, Word, Photoshop) req’d. must have technical knowledge of gar- Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 seeks F/T Illustrator/Graphic Fax resume & salary requirements to: ment construction and measurements. FENDI The primary responsibility for this Designer for trendy Men’s (212) 869-8961 Computer proficiency required. 5th Avenue - Office for Rent position is to be the hands-on point Fax resume to 212-302-3318 2,500 square feet - Build Out Space North America person for daily trafficking of projects t-shirt line. Strong typography through the company. The successful and illustration skills, great Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Store Director candidate will also: www.dumann.com Fendi N.A. seeks a self- creative group environment. MAC exp. a must. Email For Space in Garment Center motivated, detail-oriented •Maintain production schedule ensuring professional for the position deadlines are met & budgets are on resume and 3 samples to: Helmsley-Spear, Inc. schedule. [email protected] 212-880-0414 of Store Director for its Flag- •Traffic jobs throughout company, ship Location on 5TH AVE seeking proper approvals & meeting Fax: 732-280-6190 critical deadlines. Production Coordinator Showrooms & Lofts in NYC. Candidates must •Collaborate with Visual & Store Indivil. w/experience, detail oriented, BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS demonstrate strong exp. in Operations to communicate marketing hard working & organized. Follow up Great ’New’ Office Space Avail business development, cus- initiatives to stores. for all phase products. Technical gar- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 •Prepare & maintain marketing activity ment, knowlg req. Experience of pri- tomer svc, operations, reports. vate label. Communicated w/overseas. visual merch, PR, HR. Min. •Liaison with distribution center Fluent in Eng/Canto.Good computer M.O.B. DRESS 7-10 years luxury retail ensuring programs are delivered on time. DESIGNER BOYS skills. SALES EXECUTIVE management experience •Keep all jobs flowing through depart Fax to 212-695-0203 Well established Special Occassion Dress ment, maintain job jackets to ensure T-SHIRTS email: [email protected] company in NYC is looking for an required. Excellent commu- all back-up and archive materials are Graphic Designer/Illustrator– experienced and proven M.O.B. Account nication and interpersonal kept up to date. Executive. In addition to M.O.B. Sales •Collaborate with marketing director Central Jersey Art Dept. skills. Senior Sweater Buyer exp, position also requires excellent & marketing manager on advertising seeks F/T Illustrator/Graphic analytical, communication, follow up & promotion activities including Designer for trendy Boy’s C.J. Banks, a rapidly growing division and computer skills. For consideration, Excellent comp/benefits pkg. print, electronic, & direct mail. of Christopher & Banks Corporation, please email resume & salary requirements to International, team-oriented •Assist in the execution of store grand t-shirt line. Strong typography has a position available for a [email protected] BUSINESS PARTNER opening events and public relation and illustration skills, great Senior Sweater Buyer. setting w/career growth placements and events. Leading Global Leather Goods Co. seeks opps! Must undergo back- creative group environment. Handbag Mfr./Handbag Maker in Italy/ •Collect samples from buying staff This position, reporting directly to the SALES REP France. Must have excellent workman- ground check. for photo shoots & public relations MAC exp. a must. Email VP; General Merchandiser Manager, initiatives. Premiere Sportswear Co. seeking an ship, with strong connections to high resume and 3 samples to: requires a seasoned professional with aggressive & market savvy Rep with quality leather & hardware suppliers. Please email resume to: •Receive, organize & process all 5-7 years of buying experience in the incoming bills for reconciliation of [email protected] established contacts. Fantastic oppty! Attention to detail & on-time delivery [email protected] sweater category, with large-size expe- Fax: 212-382-3623 required. Please E-mail all information budget & to accounts payable team. Fax: 732-280-6190 rience strongly preferred. Overseas to: luxury_handbags @hotmail.com EOE/M/F/D/V experience in sourcing, product devel- 1-2 yrs exp in junior retail or agency opment and private label marketing with a BA in Marketing pref’d. Computer will create synergy with our team of PARTNERS WANTED literacy using Mac & MS Office is Seeking partners who own or have enthusiastic and talented merchandising essential. This candidate should have professionals. strong access to Retail, Boutique, Spa creative sensitivity to support the or Salon outlets to develop private label brand image & knowledge of event DESIGNER MISSY brand of New and Unique Silk Protein Work in one of the best quality of life marketing & media buying. Public metropolitan areas in the country with Skin Care products. Principals only. relation contacts a must. The ideal T-SHIRTS Email: [email protected] LADIES vibrant arts, theater and social scenes, candidate will be self-motivated, well- Graphic Designer/Illustrator- yet easy access to the pristine lakes, TECHNICAL DESIGNER organized & able to work independently Central Jersey Art Dept. woodlands and park systems of the &multi-task. Superior communication & beautiful Minneapolis area. Leading ladies outerwear problem-solving skills are essential. Req’s seeks F/T Illustrator/Graphic co. looking for highly organ- a flexible & team attitude in a rapidly Designer for trendy missy Here’s your opportunity to join a dy- ized and detailed individual changing & demanding environment. t-shirt line. Strong typography namic, growth oriented organization LINGERIE/SLEEPWEAR and contribute to the ongoing success w/3-5 years exp. in techni- Please send your resume to: Est’d. Mfr. seeks an “INDEPENDENT and Illustration skills, great and expansion of one of the nation’s SALES REP” to promote & develop PATTERNS, SAMPLES, cal design. Must have great [email protected] or fax to: creative group environment. most financially secure retailers. verbal and written communi- 212-564-1856 for consideration. business w/major Dept./Chain Stores. PRODUCTIONS Check us out at: www.gorave.com EOE MAC exp. a must. Email Great support for product development & All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. cation skills. Exp w/ prepar- resume and 3 samples to: A very competitive base wage, generous seasonal designs from factory and mer- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. ing tech. paks to overseas incentive compensation and benefits chandising team in N. America. Must [email protected] package along with full relocation as- have existing customers/contacts. Please PATTERNS, SAMPLES, factories + pre-production sistance underscores the value of this E-mail resumes & compensation expected fittings. Fax: 732-280-6190 position to our organization. to: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS Please e-mail all resumes to: Full servcie shop to the trade. Designer Qualified candidates may Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. [email protected] forward their cover letter, SWEATER DESIGNER credentials and salary history to: Branded womenswear company seeks designer for new hip sweater division. Carlee Bell Must have contemporary taste level. Bell Research Group Min 2 yrs import exp. & be able to handle Media Relations Assoc. HOUSE OF CREED 775 Winmark Court Admin Since 1967 sweater develop. from design to produc- Roswell, GA 30076 tion. Must be technically knowledgable Legendary maker of fragrance since W-I-N-S-T-O-N in yarn qualities and knitting stitches. 1760 seeks Media Relations Associate (678) 795-0012 Freelance Make-up Artist Please Fax resume and examples of your in Manhattan with 2 years experience. APPAREL STAFFING best contemporary/ designer sketches to Please email: [email protected] [email protected] Female with strong skincare knowledge DESIGN * SALES * MERCH seeks Dermatologist/Plastic Surgeon office 212-302-3318. Resume will not be con- ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION sidered without sketches. Christopher & Banks is an base. E-mail: [email protected] (212) 557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Equal Opportunity Employer curious BRITNEY SPEARS™ tops the charts.

#1 fragrance launch in the US and markets around the world.

den, Inc. by Britney Brands, Just released and reaching for the top. is a trademark licensed to Elizabeth Ar Britney Spears™ ©2005 EA Fragrances, Co.