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Born Again NEW YORK — More Than 50 Years After Estée Lauder Introduced Her First Major Fragrance, Youth Dew, the Scent Is Getting a Sexy Sibling, Courtesy of Tom Ford

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Born Again NEW YORK — More Than 50 Years After Estée Lauder Introduced Her First Major Fragrance, Youth Dew, the Scent Is Getting a Sexy Sibling, Courtesy of Tom Ford A SHORTER MILAN SEASON/2 GUCCI PROPELS PPR NET/4 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • September 9, 2005 • $2.00 Beauty Born Again NEW YORK — More than 50 years after Estée Lauder introduced her first major fragrance, Youth Dew, the scent is getting a sexy sibling, courtesy of Tom Ford. The eagerly awaited Youth Dew Amber Nude scent, which will be accompanied by a luxe makeup collection, will bow in early November in an elite handful of specialty store doors. For more, see page 14. WWD EXCLUSIVE Tommy Hilfiger at 20: Designer on Anniversary, Sale and Brand Renewal By Lisa Lockwood NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger is refocused and sticking around, no matter what happens. TTommyommy With the U.S. Hilfiger's Attorney’s Office eagle vest from the investigation Tommy Rocks behind him and collection. prospects of new corporate ownership on the horizon, Hilfiger finds himself in an unusual situation as he celebrates his company’s 20th anniversary. Yet he views See Tommy, Page6 PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY; INSET PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO INSET PHOTO BY BRYN KENNY; GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BY PHOTOGRAPHED 2 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2005 WWD.COM Milan Fashion Week Trims Calendar By Luisa Zargani top designers unyieldingly pick the day and the time, we can only take note of that,” he added, WWDFRIDAY MILAN — The pressure apparently worked. saying these choices will penalize the fashion Beauty After a strong campaign led by Vogue editor in houses and the Italian fashion system at a deli- chief Anna Wintour for a shorter Milan Fashion cate moment, given economic pressures. GENERAL Week, Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber The week kicks off on Monday, Sept. 26, with With a federal investigation behind him and prospects of new corporate of Fashion, threw in the towel and on Thursday is- the Emporio Armani show, followed by Salvatore 1 ownership, Tommy Hilfiger is at a crossroads as his company turns 20. sued a five-day show calendar. The downside is Ferragamo, Pollini by Rifat Ozbek, Borbonese and that it’s one of the most tightly packed seasons in Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti. Pucci, Alberta Kellwood Co. is purchasing G.A.V.’s interests in the Calvin Klein better years, with some shows a mere 30 minutes apart. Ferretti, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada will show on 2 sportswear business and has named Stephen Ruzow as division president. There will be 69 shows in Milan this season, Tuesday. On Wednesday, Missoni starts the day, fol- FASHION: A trio of designers — hailing from Italy, Germany and Australia stretching from Sept. 26-30. lowed by Trend Les Copains, Jil Sander and 6 — touch down on U.S. soil with bold new collections. “I’m thrilled,” Wintour said Thursday of the Bottega Veneta scheduled from 11:30 to 12:30 and SUZY: Sienna Miller has forgiven Jude Law for cheating with his children’s shorter season. distanced half an hour apart, just as are Anna nanny…Jennifer and Marc plan to spend more time in New York. But Boselli made it clear he wasn’t pleased. Molinari and Burberry Prorsum that evening. 12 For the first time, the chamber also put out a let- Giorgio Armani and Gucci also will be showing on EYE: A conversation with Philip Seymour Hoffman, whose new film, ter together with the calendar, pointing out that Wednesday — a first for such powerhouses to be 13 “Capote,” premieres Saturday at the Toronto International Film Festival. some fashion houses chose to show half an hour appearing on the same day. On Thursday, Fendi BEAUTY: Tom Ford has summoned the spirit of Estée Lauder, who put apart and lamenting their “unconditional will…to will be at 4 p.m., followed by Menichetti at 4:30 14 American fragrance on the map when she launched Youth Dew in 1953. be positioned in those [central] days of the week,” p.m., Daks at 5 p.m., Alessandro Dell’Acqua at 5:30 Obituaries..........................................................................................16, 22 and their “limited flexibility.” p.m. and Moschino Cheap & Chic at 6 p.m. Dolce & Classified Advertisements........................................................................23 In a phone interview, Boselli declined to com- Gabbana also shows on Thursday and Versace ment on whether Italian designers were heavily closes the day with two shows, at 8 p.m. and 9 p.m., To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is influenced by Wintour and Italian Vogue editor in to be held at the city’s Bourse building. Roberto [email protected], using the individual’s name. chief Franca Sozzani, who, as reported earlier Cavalli, Gianfranco Ferré and Miu Miu basically WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. this year, have been asking for a shorter calendar wrap up the week on Friday. Armani, Versace, VOLUME 190, NO. 54. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional in an effort to save time and money. Prada, Ferré and Miu Miu are the only houses issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL “I don’t even want to know whether there was holding two shows. OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., this kind of pressure,” said Boselli. “What I resent “The days will be longer, as fashion houses will Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior is the behavior of our associates and their limited surely wait for one another, as they always have,” Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. sense of responsibility. said one fashion insider. “That said, I think the Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. “We as an association try to be arbiters, but if press will eventually have to make choices.” Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products Kellwood Ups Stake in Calvin Sportswear and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND By Marc Karimzadeh and Julee Greenberg ment Stores Inc. and have a presence on the bet- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART ter sportswear floors. Calvin Klein is currently WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE NEW YORK — Kellwood Co. has agreed to purchase available in 200 doors in North America, includ- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. G.A.V.’s interests in the Calvin Klein women’s better ing Bloomingdale’s, Marshall Field’s, Lord & sportswear business and has named Stephen L. Taylor, Macy’s East and Macy’s West. Ruzow as president of the division. According to retailers, the Calvin Klein better The deal ends the services agreement in which sportswear collection is selling well, and one retail- G.A.V. managed Calvin Klein women’s better er noted it’s ahead of plan by 50 percent this season Quote of the Week sportswear as a business venture with Kellwood. over last year, with much future growth potential. The Calvin Klein women’s bet- “The Calvin Klein better “The luxury boom continues. The ter sportswear collection is sportswear line has been suc- produced by Kellwood under cessfully launched throughout demographics are in our favor. The a license agreement with Cal- the U.S. and Canada,” said vin Klein Inc., a wholly owned Alexander Vreeland, presi- wealth factor is growing…the desire subsidiary of the Phillips-Van dent and chief operating offi- Heusen Corp. cer of G.A.V.
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