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676 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 99‑100 bathrooms 646‑7 Amboseli National Park 9, 240‑3, Batwa people, see Twa people 241, 9 Bawi 85 Amin, Idi 382, 383, 389, 471‑2, 474 beaches 2-3 amoebic dysentery 661 Bawi 85 animals, see wildlife, individual Bongoyo 57 animals, individual locations children 37 Annan, Kofi 357 Coco Beach 52, 16 antelopes 248, 360, 544 Dar es Salaam 57‑8 Anti-Gay Bill 477 Diani Beach 332‑6, 332 Arab colonisation 574 Entebbe 399 Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve 341‑2 Fumba 84 archaeological sites, see also ruins Gisenyi 525‑30, 527 A Oldupai Gorge 140 Aberdare National Park 287-9, 288 highlights 16, 38, 39, 332 Kondoa Rock-Art Sites 149-50 Acacia Camp 235 Jambiani 82 architecture 352, 631 accommodation 640‑1, see also Jimbizi Beach 192 area codes 646, 647 individual locations Kizimkazi 83-4 art galleries activities 17‑18, 641‑2, see also Lake Tanganyika 11, 11 115 individual activities 342-6 395 African buffaloes 606, 607 Matemwe 78-9 arts 631‑3, see also individual arts African fish eagles 615, 614 Matvilla Beach 152 festivals 385 African Queen, The 463, 479 Mbuyuni Beach 89 358 African wild cats 14, 544, 594, 598, Michamvi Peninsula 81-2 Rwanda 549‑50 601, 598-601 Nungwi 76-8 Tanzania 200 African wild dogs 595 Paje 80-1 Uganda 479‑80 Afro-Shirazi Party (ASP) 198 Pongwe 80 AIDS 478, 571, 576, 578 114-27, 116 Saga Beach 559, 11 air travel Arusha Declaration 198 Shela 353‑4 Burundi 567 127‑8, 128 Ssese Islands 455-7 Kenya 370-1, 372 Association of Uganda Tour Takaungu 339 Rwanda 554, 555 Operators 25 Tanzania 57-8 Tanzania 206, 211-12 ATMs 645 Tiwi Beach 331, 332 to/from East Africa 650‑1 Burundi 566 Vumawimbi Beach 91 Uganda 489, 491 Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) 501 Watamu 339-41 within East Africa 652 Kenya 366 Zanzibar 75‑84 airline offices Rwanda 552 beer 483, 635 Burundi 567 Tanzania 205 Belgian colonisation 519, 534, 548, Kenya 372 Uganda 486 565, 577 Rwanda 554 augur buzzards 615 Besigye, Kizza 476 Tanzania 211-12 bicycle travel, see cycling Uganda 489 Big Five 20, 216, 359, 378, 593 airports B Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary 423-4 Burundi 567 Babati 149 bilharzia 658 Kenya 370 baboons 602, 627 Binaisa, Godfrey 471, 473 Rwanda 554 Bagamoyo 92 birds 615‑18, 615-18, see also Tanzania 206 people 583‑4 individual birds Uganda 489 Bagaza, Jean-Baptiste 565 books 479 Akamba people 583 Bagosora, Colonel Theoneste 546 birdwatching al-Qaeda 356, 357, 576 Bahati, David 477 Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary 423 al-Shabab 477 balloon safaris 31, 254, 263, 364 Busingiro 466-7 altitude sickness 661 banded mongooses 613, 612-13 Kaniyo Pabidi 466 Amabeere Cave 422‑3 banditry 367, 638 Kenya 240, 259 Amakula International Film bao 580, 668 Lake Baringo 259-60 Festival 385 Baragoi 316 Nyungwe Forest National Park 538 bargaining 487, 642 Parc National de l’Akagera 543-4 basketry see handicrafts Parc National des Volcans 523 Map pages 000 bat-eared foxes 469, 481 Rubondo Island National Park 157 000 Photo pages bateleurs 615, 614 Rwanda 523, 538, 543-4, 551 INE D X B-C 677

603 284 0, 0, 3 ‑ 05, 05, m oney 7 3 ‑ ‑ 1 ‑ 88 600 3 , , 128, 133 599 5 , , 1 ‑ 4 9 ‑ ‑ ‑ see also 3 2 ‑ ‑ 598-601 4 498 ‑ 458, 465, 467, 481 458, 465, 467, Sanctuary 401-2 (DRC) 497 (DRC) 499 10, 33 10, , 437 598-601, 598-601, 198 Tanzania 158, 165, 166 160, Tanzania Uganda 398, 401-2, 423, 432, 437, Kenya Kenya 303 Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Kenya Kenya 222, 263, 308248, 243, 200 131, 176, 142, Tanzania Uganda 481 469, Democratic Republic of the Congo Uganda Uganda 491 Uganda 422 Burundi 568 driving 492, 654 licences 374, 213, hire 655 insurance 655 road accidents 638 road rules 655 Kenya 371, 373-5 Rwanda 555 213 Tanzania Rwanda 535, 536, 537, 538 Rwanda 535, 536, 537, Uganda 423, 426, 434, 466, 481 Democratic Republic of the Congo Kenya 246, 281, 297, 337 281, Kenya 246, 297, Rwanda 516 C Chogoria 305 cholera 658 Cherangani Cherangani Hills 318 cats, African cats, wild 544, 594, 14, Christianity 411, 580 chukudus Chumbe Island Coral Park 85 children, children, travel with 36 chimpanzee tracking 499 chimpanzees 602, 62914, caracals 259, caracals 601, 259, cash 205, 645, caves cell phones 646 Central Highlands 283 Central Island National Park 319 Chake Chake 87 Chama Cha Mapinduzi (CCM) 146, Changuu 84-5 cheetahs 598, 14, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park camel safaris 31, 315 314, Cameron, David 365 canoe safaris 30 car travel 654 13, 8 ‑ 7 ‑ 8 see also ‑ 558 6 ‑ 8, 8, hiking 604-5 0, 491 0, 6 159 ‑ 3 9 ‑ 5 ‑ 531 ‑ 0, 0, see 6 ‑ 2 ‑ 458, 458, 537 individual countries Burundi 567 Kenya 373 371-2, Rwanda 555, 556 212-13 206-10, Tanzania safe safe travel 563, 566 telephone services 567 travel seasons 557 travel to/from 567 travel within 568 vacations 566 visas 567 Uganda 489 accommodation 566 border crossings 567 business hours 566 climate 557 consulates 566 565 culture 557, economy 566 embassies 566 environment 566 highlights 558 history 564 holidays 566 money 566 nature 557 planning information 557 public holidays 566 activities 559 drinking 562 emergency services 563 food 561 internet access 563 medical services 563 money 563 postal services 563 shopping 563 sights 559 tourist information 563 travel agencies 563 travel to/from 563 travel within 564 Burundian Civil War 557, Burundian565, 580 Civil War 557, bus travel 654 butterflies 84, 276, butterflies 341, 423, 403, 84, 276, Major Buyoya, Pierre 565 buzzards, augur 615 Bwejuu 81 bushbabies 605, bushwalking, Burundi 557 39, Bukoba Bukoba 158 bungee jumping 407-8 Burton 575 business hours 642, Butare 530-3, d how 7 ‑ 1 6 607 see also ‑ 609 , , see also 4 6 ‑ 605 560 ‑ 4, , , 251 1 6 1 ‑ 5 9 8 ‑ ‑ ‑ ‑ f

310 604 142, 166, 167, 171, 176, 188 171, 176, 167, 166, 142, 481 469, 461, 467, 457, (DRC) 502 (DRC) 499 303, 308, 362 303, 359, travel, erry sailing travel, literature 605, 605, 308, 308, accommodation 559 Kenya Kenya 302, 308, 359 330, Rwanda 544 131, 130, 138, 133, 111, 127, Tanzania Uganda 412, 426, 432, 423, 424, Tanzania 206-10 Tanzania Uganda 489 Burundi 567 Democratic Republic of the Congo Kenya 283, 489-90 Rwanda 554 Kenya 372-3, 375 Kenya 372-3, 212 Tanzania Uganda 491 Democratic Republic of the Congo Uganda 423, 451 African wild cats 594 elephants 241 history & politics 480 primates 627 wildlife 479 Kenya 251, 257, 280, 281, 280, 332 Kenya 251, 257, 164 Tanzania Uganda 421, 426, 458, 424, 466 Kenya 222, 243, 256, 263, 284, 287, Kenya 222, 256, 263, 284, 287, 243, Rwanda 544 138, 188, 544 Tanzania Sinet Delta 240 202 157, Tanzania 481, 483 Uganda 402, 423, 466-7, boda-boda travel 372, 375, 397, 492 boda-boda 397, 375, travel 372, Bongoyo 57 books 571, 593, 479, border crossings Blixen, Karen 217, 222-3, 247 Blixen, Karen 217, blue monkeys 605, black-and-white colobus monkeys Bisesero Bisesero 541 Biya, Paul 546 black market 645 black rhinos 594, 609, Buggala Island 455 Bujumbura 558 Budongo Forest Budongo Reserve 465 Forest Buffalo Springs National Reserve African buffaloes, 606, British colonisation 574-5, 577, 583 British colonisation577, 574-5, budget 12 boat safaris 30 boat travel 651, 653 678 Chutes de la Karera 564 cultural tourism 52 Eldoret 276‑9, 277 cinema 631 dangers 53 electricity 643 festivals 385 drinking 52 elephants 9, 14, 302, 359‑60, 593, Uganda 393-4, 479 emergency services 53 609, 608 climate 12, 17‑18, see also individual entertainment 52 Eliye Springs 319‑20 countries immigration office 53 Elizabeth II, Queen 289 climate change 577, 651 internet access 53 El-Molo people 584 climbing, see also hiking, trekking media 53 Elsa’s Grave 303‑4 e IN Kenya 254, 364 medical services 53 embassies, see individual countries D Rwanda 523-4 money 53‑4 emergencies 665, see also individual X Coco Beach 52, 16 postal services 54 locations C-F coffee 635 shopping 52‑3 endangered species 359‑60, 593‑5 tours 105 sights 46 Engaruka 136 colobus monkey tracking 536-7 telephone services 54 Entebbe 398‑401, 400 colobus monkeys 605, 604 travel to/from 54‑6 environment 591‑6 community projects 485, see travel within 56 Burundi 566 also volunteering deforestation 596 Kenya 358‑62 conservation Democratic Republic of the Congo Rwanda 550 chimpanzees 630 (DRC) 39, 493‑502, 494 Tanzania 200‑1 gorillas 629 climate 493 Uganda 480‑3 consulates, see individual countries culture 493 environmental issues 595‑6 costs 12 election 501 Kenya 361‑2 courses 204, 366, 486 highlights 494 592 cows 452 history 500‑1 Rwanda 550 cranes, grey-crowned 617 money 501 equator 403 Crater Lakes 421‑2 nature 493 European colonisation 575 credit cards 645 planning information 493 events8 17‑1 Rwanda 552 safe travel 501‑2 exchange rates Tanzania 205 telephone services 502 Kenya 216 Uganda 487 travel seasons 493 Rwanda 504 crime 638 travel to/from 502 Tanzania 43 crocodiles 263, 303 visas 502 Uganda 378 Cultural Tourism Programs 123, 171 dhow travel 212, 350, 653 exchanging money 645 culture 570, 578‑82 Diani Beach 332‑6, 332 tribal groups 583‑90 diarrhoea 660‑1 F currency 13 digital photography 645‑6 female genital mutilation 579 customs regulations 578‑82 diphtheria 658 Ferguson’s Gulf 320 Cyangugu 540 disabilities, travellers with 369, 647 ferry travel cycling 652‑3 diving 16, 641, 642 Rwanda 556 Kenya 364 Kenya 340, 364 Tanzania 212 safaris 30 Tanzania 67 Uganda 491 Tanzania 202-3 Dodoma 146‑9, 148 Festival of the Dhow Countries 18 Tour d’Afrique 580 dogs, hunting 613 festivals 17‑18, see also individual dolphins 83 locations D Donkey Sanctuary 347‑8 film 385, 631 dalla-dalla 214 DRC, see Democratic Republic of filariasis 658 dance 633 Congo films 570, 631 Rwanda 549 drinks 635 festivals 385, 631 Uganda 480 driving, see car travel Rwanda 549‑50 dangers 213, 638‑9, see also safe driving licences 654 Fischer, Gustav 575 travel Kenya 374 flamingos 259, 617, 616 hitching 655 Tanzania 213 flycatchers 119 Dar es Salaam 46‑56, 48, 50 Uganda 492 food 634‑6, 643, see also individual accommodation 46‑7 locations customs 636 E language 664‑5 eagles, African fish 615, 614 Map pages Forces for the Defence of Democracy 000 East African Safari Rally 580 (FDD) 565 000 Photo pages economy 570‑1 INE D X F-K 679 398 7 , , ‑ 262 , , 0 8 0 275 ‑ 1 1 4 9 , , ‑ ‑ 386-7 ‑ ‑ 6 4 , , 7 ‑ ‑ ‑ 8 2189 ‑ 4 382 5 8 8 ‑ ‑ 76, 76, 3 ‑ 8, 8, ‑ 4 3 444 6 ‑ 9 ‑ 8 , , ‑ 5 ‑ 2 4 8 ‑ 7 ‑ ‑ ‑ ‑ 1 ‑ 336 accommodation 362 activities 364 budget 216 money 395 postal services 396 shopping 394 sights 379 tourist information 396 tours 384 travel agencies 396 travel to/from 396 travel within 397 accommodation 385 activities 379 dangers 379 drinking 392 emergency services 395 entertainment 393 festivals & events 385 food 390 internet access 395 medical services 395 accommodation 408 activities 405 drinking 410 food 410 sights 405 tourist information 410 travel to/from 410 travel within 411 K Jozani Forest 84 Jozani Forest 476 Juba Talks Peace Jumba la Mtwana 338 AboudJumbe, 198 Kenya Kenya 38, 215 Karamojong people 586 Karatu 136 JosephKasavubu, 500 Kasese 427 167 David Kato, 477 426 Kayibanda, Gregoire 545 Kendwa 78 Kabila, Kabila, Joseph 501 Kabila, Laurent 547 Wildlife Kabwoya Reserve 467 Paul Kagame, 545, 547 274 Kakamega Forest 585 Kampala 379 Jewish Abayudaya community 411 Jinja1 403 Kabale 443 253 , , 4 ‑ individual

6 610-11 ‑ see also 7 4 ‑ , , ‑ 2 ‑ see also 564 2 , , ‑ 7 3 ‑ 549 2 0 610 ‑ 9 174 531 612 ‑ 613 6 309 ‑ 3 ‑ climbing, trekking Rwanda Rwanda (ICTR) 548 countries Congo Congo Nile trail 529 Rwanda 551 safaris 30 203 Tanzania Usambara Mountains 100 safaris 28 Buggala Island 455 off Dar es Salaam 57 off Zanzibar 84-5 Ssese Islands 455 internet 658resources vaccinations 658 water 662 Tanzania 213 Tanzania Uganda 492 J I hippos 263, 289, 610, hippos 610, 263, 289, heat exhaustion 661 itineraries 19 jackals 613, Jambiani 82 insect bites 661 insurance 643, 655 International Camel Derby 18 International Criminal for Tribunal internet access 643 internet 571 resources 13, Iringa 173-6, Isiolo 305, Islam 581 islands 15 Hoima 459 holidays 646 Homa 271 honey badgers 613 Hotel Rwanda hunting dogs 613 Huye 530 hyenas 613, 610, hyraxes , Ibikorwa rusangi Il Ngwesi 308 independence 576 independent safaris 31 Hell’s Hell’s Gate National Park 253 Ernest Hemingway, 463 hepatitis 658 hiking 15, 102, 641 history 15, 572 HIV 478, HIV 571, 658 478, hitching 655 609 5 ‑ 602-3 , , 481 1 , , ‑ , , 541, 546, 9 604-5 4 ‑ 613 ‑ 521, 550 420 5 ‑ 1, 1, 527 , , 450 9 3 ‑ 2 8 ‑ ‑ ‑ 606 0, 0, 607 496 2 3 ‑ 6 7 ‑ ‑ 4 ‑ (DRC) 498 550, 576 550, (FDC) 476 insurance 657 internet resources 628 Rwanda Rwanda 520 Uganda 437 habitutation 482 permits 438, 450 Rwanda 513, Rwanda 533513, Democratic Republic of the Congo Burundi 565 Anti-Gay Bill 477 H G Great Great Rift591 Valley Great War of Africa 501 greater galago 605, gerenuk gerenuk 606, Gorillas in the Mist golden 523monkeys 14, Goma 494 Gombe National Park 165 Gorilla 523 Naming Ceremony 17, gorilla tracking , Gede Ruins 342 genocide Gadaffi, Gadaffi, Colonel 472 Gandhi, Mahatma 405 gay travellers 204, 486, 643 gazelles 606, Forum Forum for Democratic Change Dian 521, 524 Fossey, languageFrench 667 57 Yasini Fungu Haya Haya people 584 health 657 Habyarimana, Juvenal Habyarimana, 565 Hadzabe people 585 handicrafts 633480, Hannington, James 575 Grevy’s Grevy’s 594 grey-crowned cranes 617 Gulu 467 68 gorillas 14, gorillas 602, 627 14, Gisenyi 525 Gitega 564 John Githongo, 356 golden jackals 613, German colonialism 574 giardiasis 661 Centre 222 giraffes 222, 302, 595, 609, 360, forests forests 592 Portal Fort 417 680 Kenya continued Kibera 229 Lake Kasenda 422 business hours 364 Kibuye 540‑2 Lake Kifuruka 422 climate 215 Kidepo Valley National Park 469‑70 Lake Kivu 526 consulates 364‑5 Kigali 505‑15, 508 Lake Manyara National Park 133‑5 cultural tips 216 accommodation 509‑11 453‑4 culture 215, 357‑8 drinking 513 Lake Mutanda 450 customs regulations 364 emergency services 514 Lake Naivasha 250‑3, 252 disabilities, travellers with 369 entertainment 513 Lake Nakuru National Park 256,

e IN economy 357 food2 511‑1 258 D embassies 364‑5 history 506 Lake Natron 135‑6 X environment 358‑62 internet access 514 Lake Nkuruba 421 K-M exchange rates 216 maps 514 Lake Nyasa 182‑4 food2 229‑3 medical services 514 Lake Nyinabulitwa 421-2 gay travellers 365 money 514 Lake Tanganyika 11, 169, 11 highlights 218‑19 postal services 514 Lake Victoria 151, 266‑71, 151 history 355‑7 shopping 513‑14 environmental issues 592 internet access 365 sights 506‑7 9, 346‑53, 348, 9 itineraries 216 tourist information 514 language 663‑9 legal matters 366 tours 508 courses 204, 366, 486 lesbian travellers 365 travel agencies 514 French 667 literature 358 travel to/from 514‑15 Rwanda 504 maps 366 travel within 515 Swahili 575 money 366 Kigoma 162-5, 164 Uganda 378 music 359 Kigomasha 91‑2 Last King of Scotland, The 479 nature 215 Kihingami Wetland 422 Leakey, Dr Richard 361 planning information 215‑16 586 legal matters 204, 644 postal services 367 Kilifi 338‑9 leopards 14, 598, 598 public holidays 367 Kilwa Kisiwani 193‑4 Leopold, King 500 religion 358 Kilwa Masoko 192-3, 192 lesbian travellers 204, 486, 643 safaris 228, 327 King Leopold 500 Anti-Gay Bill 477 safe travel 367‑8 King Mutara III 534 Les Tambourinaires du Burundi 562 telephone services 368‑9 Kisii 272 lesser flamingos 617, 616 transport 216 Kisoro 448‑50, 449 Lewa Wildlife Conservancy 307 travel seasons 215 Kisumu 266-71, 267 life expectancy 582 travel to/from 370‑2 Kitale 279, 280 lilac-breasted rollers 617, 617 travel within 239‑40, 372‑6 Kitgum 468 14, 242, 360, 432, 594, 598, visas0 369‑7 Kiwengwa 79‑80 598-9 volunteering 370 Kiweni 90 literature 631-2, see also books wildlife 359‑60 Kizimkazi 83‑4 Kenya 358 Kenya African Democratic Union kob, Uganda 606 Uganda 479 (KADU) 355 kombe 580 Livingstone, Dr David 61, 575, 576 Kenya African National Union (KANU) Lodwar 319 355‑6 Kondoa Rock-Art Sites 149‑51 long-horned cows 452 Kenya Land Freedom Army 355 Kony, Joseph 475‑6 Longonot National Park 249‑50 Kenyan African Movement (KAU) 355 Kwita Izina 17, 523 Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA) 475 Kenyan Association of Tour Operators 25 Loyangalani 316‑17 L Lule, Yusuf 473 Kenyan Coast 320‑54, 321 Laikipia Plateau 303 Lumumba, Patrice 500 Kenyatta, Jomo 355, 579 lakes 592 586‑7 Kenyatta, Uhuru 356 Crater Lakes 421-2 Lushoto 100‑2, Kenya Wildlife Service 361 Lake Albert 467 101 Kericho 272‑74 Lake Baringo 259‑61, 260 Kibaki, Mwai 356‑7 Lake Bogoria National Reserve M Kibale Forest National Park 423‑4 257 ‑9, 260 587‑8 Lake Bunyonyi 445‑8 Mabamba Swamp Wetlands 402 Lake Elmenteita 254 Mabira Forest Reserve 403 000 Map pages Lake Eyasi 141‑2 Mafia 186‑8, 187 000 Photo pages INE D X M-N 681 , , 6 ‑ , , 1 ‑ 7 ‑ 3 9 237 ‑ ‑ , , 230 9 5 ‑ 6 ‑ ‑ 9 7 ‑ ‑ 9 ‑ 224 , , 0 1 ‑ 4 3 ‑ 4 300 ‑ 5 ‑ 3 220 154 ‑ 256 01, 01, , , , , 0, 0, 2 3 6 2 6 ‑ ‑ ‑ ‑ 4 ‑ 3 ‑ ‑ 2 3 ‑ ‑ 580 10, 33-4, 437 10, 341 308 622 238 (NARC) 356 Bwindi Impenetrable National Park Arusha National Park 127 Budongo Reserve 465 Forest Buffalo Springs National Reserve Aberdare Aberdare National Park 287 Amani Nature Reserve 99-100 Amboseli National Park 240 Arabuko Reserve Sokoke Forest drinking 232 emergency services 235 entertainment 234 festivals & events 223 internet access 236 medical services 236 money 236 postal services 236 safe travel 233 shopping 234 sights3 217 telephone services 236 tourist information 235 travel agencies 237 travel to/from 236, 237 travel within 239 Kenya Kenya 358, 359 du Tambourinaires BurundiLes 562 200 Tanzania Uganda 480 accommodation 223 Kenya Kenya 217 Rwanda 532 46 Tanzania N Nakuru 255 Nanyuki 297 Naro Moru 297 Narok 261 National Alliance Rainbow Coalition National Liberation (NLF) Forces 565 national museums national parks & reserves 202, 621 Nairobi National Park 221-2, Museveni, Yoweri 475, 545, 586 475, , music 632 Musoma 151 Mutara III, King 534 Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary 334 Mwambutsa, Mwami 564 Mwanza 152 mweso Nairobi 217 , , 4, 4, 5

, 1 ‑ ‑ 6-7

, 292 , , , , 412 112 7 3 ‑ ‑ 0 5 ‑ 3 ‑ national 170 516-17 9 612 3 ‑ ‑ 0, 0, also 295 195 2 1 9, 9, 7

106 individual species ‑ ‑ , , 1

3 ‑ ‑ 6 8 ‑ ‑ see 1 ‑ 602-3 see 9 ‑ (DRC) 498, 499 282 462 627 , 619 museums Rwanda Rwanda 515, 519-21 448, 482450, Uganda 437, hire hire 655 road rules 655 Rwanda 555 Uganda 491 Democratic Republic of the Congo activities 320 dangers 329 drinking 328 emergency services 329 entertainment 328 events 323 festivals 323 food 327 internet access 329 medical services 329 money 329 safaris 327 shopping 328 tourist information 329 tours 327 travel to/from 329 travel within 330 Baden-Powell Baden-Powell Museum 284 National Museum of Rwanda 532 379 Mpanda 167 Reserve 403 Forest Triathlon 323Mombasa Triathlon Mombo 103 money 12, 641, 13, 645 mongooses 613, museums, museums, Mt Elgon National Park 281 Mt Kenya 298, Mt Kenya National Park 291 Mt 115, Kilimanjaro 111-14, 6, Mt Meru 129 Mtae 102 Mtwara 194 Muheza 98 Murchison NationalFalls Park 460 Musanze 515 monkeys, monkeys, Morogoro 169 Moshi 103 motorcycle travel 654 0, moto-taxis 556 mountain biking 653364, 372, mountain gorillas 33-4, 35, 602, 39, Museveni, Janet Museveni, 477 3 ‑ 313 304 , , 5 324-5 ‑ , , , , 585 9 6 6 1 ‑ ‑ ‑ ‑ 322 618

, 0, 0, 3 344 7 1 ‑ 3 ‑ , , 1 1 9 5 9 0 ‑ 1 ‑ 314 6 ‑ ‑ ‑ ‑ 2 8 ‑ ‑ 1 2 ‑ 264-5 ‑ 2 6 ‑ ‑ 450 261, 315 165-7 Mobutu, Mobutu, Joseph 500 Moi, Daniel arap 355 Mombasa 320 Mikindani 196 171 171-3 Mikumi Town minibuses 655 Misali 89 Mkame Ndume (Pujini) Ruins 89 Mkoani 90 Mnarani 339 Mnemba 85 mobile phones 646 Mgahinga Mgahinga Gorilla National Park 34, Michamvi Peninsula 81-2 Mida Creek 341 Meru 301 Meru National Park 302 Mbarara Mbarara 452 Mbeya 179 Mbudya 57 measures 641 medical services 657 Menai Bay 84 meningococcal meningtis 660 Matemwe Matemwe 78-9 Matiba, Kenneth 355 Mau Mau rebellion 355, 577 Mbale2 411 Masaka 454 Masasi 197 Masindi 458 Marangu 110 Marich 317 Marsabit 311 Marsabit National Park 313, Masai Mara National Reserve 8, Maralal International Camel Derby Malindi Marine National Park 342 354 Island Manda Toto 354 mangroves 592 maps 644 Marafa 343 Maralal 313, Makonde people 588 Makunduchi 83 malaria 658 Malindi 342 188 Mahale Mountains National Park Mai Mai 501 Maji Maji Rebellion 184 Makambako 178 682 national Parks & Reserves National Park 6, 142‑6 Odinga, Raila 357, 365, 587 continued Shaba National Reserve 308 Okello, General Tito 473, 545 Central Island National Park 319 Shimba Hills National Reserve Okello, John 198 Gombe National Park 165 330‑1 Ol Doinyo Lengai 140 Hell’s Gate National Park 253‑4 Sibiloi National Park 318 opening hours 642 467 South Island National Park 317 Operation Entebbe 473 Katavi National Park 167‑8 Tanzania 200 Operation Iron Fist 476 Katonga Wildlife Reserve 426‑7 131‑3 Organisation for African Unity (OAU) e IN Kenya 360‑1 Toro- 425‑6 472 D Kibale Forest National Park 423‑4 Tsavo East National Park 247‑9 ostriches 617, 616

X Kidepo Valley National Park 469‑70 Tsavo West National Park 243‑7 N-P Lake Bogoria National Reserve Uganda 482‑3 P 257‑9 Watamu Marine National Park 340 Paje 80‑1 Lake Manyara National Park 133‑5 National Resistance Army (NRA) 475 Lake Nakuru National Park 256 Palestine Liberation Organization National Resistance Council (NRC) (PLO) 473 Longonot National Park 249‑50 475 Pangani 95‑6 Mahale Mountains National Park National Resistance Movement Pangavini 57 165-7 (NRM) 476 papasi 65 Malindi Marine National Park 342‑3 Ndadaye, Melchior 565 Parc National de l’Akagera 542‑5 Marsabit National Park 313 Ndayizeye, Domitien 565 Parc National de Nyungwe 11, Masai Mara National Reserve 261‑6 Ndere Island National Park 268 535-40, 11 Mgahinga Gorilla National Park Ndoto Mountains 312 450‑2 Parc National des Virungas 35, Nelson Mandela Stadium 478 497 ‑500 Mikumi National Park 171 Netanyahu, Benjamin 473 Parc National des Volcans 34‑5, Mpanga Forest Reserve 403 newspapers 641 519 ‑25, 522 Mt Elgon National Park 281‑3, Kenya 362 4124 ‑1 Pare people 589 Tanzania 203 Mt Kenya National Park 291‑7 passports 648 Uganda 484 Mt Kilimanjaro National Park Paté Island 354 111 ‑14, 115 Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Pemba 85‑91, 86 Sanctuary 401‑2 Murchison Falls National Park Pemba flying foxes 91 Ngezi Vumawimbi Forest Reserve 91 460‑5 permits 34‑5 Ngorongoro Conservation Area Nairobi National Park 221-2 photography 645‑6 137 ‑41, 138 Ndere Island National Park 268 planning, see also individual Ngorongoro Crater 137‑40 Ngezi Vumawimbi Forest Reserve countries 91 trekking 139-40 budgeting 12 Nyungwe Forest National Park 11, Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary 243 calendar of events 17‑18 5350 ‑4 Nile River 405 children 36‑7 Parc National de l’Akagera 542‑5 Ningaba, Colonel Sylvestre 565 East Africa basics 12‑13 Parc National des Virungas Njombe 178‑9 East Africa’s regions 38‑9 497 ‑500 Nkurunziza, Pierre 565 internet resources 13 Parc National des Volcans 519‑25 Northern Kenya 305‑20, 306 itineraries 19‑23 Queen Elizabeth National Park Northern Tanzania 103‑46, 104 safaris1 24‑3 432‑7 Ntaryamira, Cyprien 546, 565 travel seasons 12, 17‑18 176-8 Ntibantunganya, Sylvestre 565 plants 200-1, 591-2 Rubondo Island National Park Nungwi 76‑8 157‑8 poaching 247 Nyabisindu 534-5 Ruma National Park 271 politics 570‑1 Nyahururu 289‑91, 290 Rwanda 550 Pongwe 80 Nyamwezi people 589 Rwenzori Mountains National Park population 570, 579‑80 4282 ‑3 Nyanza 534‑5 Portuguese colonisation 574 94‑5 Nyerere, Julius 198, 472 postal services, see individual Saiwa Swamp National Park 280‑1 Nyeri 283‑6 locations Samburu National Reserve 308‑11 Nyero Rockpaintings 416 primates 602‑5, 627‑30, 602-5 188‑92 Nyiragongo Volcano 498, 11 primate tracking 14 424‑5 Nyungwe Forest National Park 11, Rwanda 551 535 ‑40, 11 Uganda 10 public holidays 646 Burundi 566 000 Map pages O Kenya 367 000 Photo pages Obama, Barack 477 Obote, Dr Milton 382-3, 471-5, 575 Rwanda 552‑3 INDEX P-T 683 1 ‑ 310 144 1 , ,

‑ 6, 11 189 ‑ ‑ , , 5 ‑ 8 92 ‑ ‑ 618 612 615 8 ‑ 550 7 8 9 ‑ ‑ , , 11 618, 2 2 ‑ 2, ‑ ‑ 62 617 162 16 ‑ 601 5 98 7 ‑ ‑ 4 ‑ 8, 8, ‑ music 73 (DRC) 501 198, 198, 577 198(TANU) architecture architecture 352, 631 culture 588 575, literature 631 Democratic Republic of the Congo hitching 655 367 Kenya 233, 311, 347, Rwanda 553 Uganda 471, 487 Kenya 337, 364 Kenya 337, 65, 84, 88, 90 57, Tanzania T Saga Saga Beach 559, Takaungu 339 Takaungu 96 Tanga Tanganyika Africa Association (TAA) Tanganyika African National Tanganyika Union solo travellers 646 Sometimes in April Paul 476 Ssemogerere, Ssese Islands 455 Henry Stanley, Morton 575 559, 8, Stone Town Sukuma people 589 Sumbawanga 168 Swahili 663 von CountSzek, 575 Teleki taarab 161-2, Tabora Shaba National Reserve 308 Shela 353 Shimba Hills National Reserve 330 Shimoni Island 336 shoebills 617, Sibiloi National Park 318 Sipi 414 Falls 576 slave trade 574, snake bites 662 snorkelling 641 16, Songea 184 Soni 103 Source Du Nil 564 South Island National Park 317 sports 580 549, spotted hyenas 613, Selous Game Reserve 188 Semuliki National Park 424 142 6, servals 601, sailing 335 Saiwa Swamp National Park 280 308 Reserve National Samburu savannahs 591 schistosomiasis 658 secretary birds 615, 4 ‑ 5 ‑ 3 5 ‑ 128, 133 ‑ 7 6 ‑ 1, 251 9 ‑ ‑ ‑ 1, ‑ 8 ‑ 428 31 ‑ 32, 32, ‑ 428 553 Burundi 563, 566 bus travel 654 car travel 213 balloon safaris 31, 254, 263, 364 boat safaris 30 camel safaris 31, 315 314, canoe safaris 30 cycling safaris 30 hiking safaris 30 independent safaris 31 itineraries 28-9 Kenya 228, 327 Rwanda 556 54, 126 Tanzania Uganda 483 vehicle safaris 30 public holidays 552 religion 549 safaris 556 safe travel 553 telephone services 553 time 553 tourist information 553 tours 556 travel seasons 503 travel to/from 554 travel within 555 visas 504, 554 work 554 environmental issues 550 exchange rates 504 festivals 552 food 550 highlights 505 history 545 internet access 552 itineraries 504 language 504 maps 552 money 504, 552 nature 503 planning information 503 plastic bags, ban of 555 population 549 postal services 552 provincial renaming 552 S Rwanda Rwanda Development Board (RDB) Rwandan Patriotic (RPF)Front 545 Rwenzori Mountains National Park safe safe travel 36, 638 Saadani National Park 94 Saba Saba 356 safari operators 54, 126 safaris 24 8 ‑ see also 5 1 ‑ ‑ 4 ‑ 505 9 6 , , 250 ‑ ‑ 516-17 610 , , 2 56 ‑ ‑ 60 ‑ 7 ‑ 433 7, 7, ‑ 432 giraffes culture 503, culture 548 503, currency 504 drinking 550 economy 549 embassies 551 environment 550 accommodation 550 activities 551 border crossings 554 budget 504 climate 503 consulates 551 cultural tips 504 Kilwa Kisiwani 193 Mkame Ndume (Pujini) 89 Mnarani 339 Ras Mkumbuu 89 Kenya Kenya 358 Rwanda 549 200 Tanzania Uganda 479 Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary 243 Tanzania 205 Tanzania Uganda 487 Engaruka Engaruka 136 Gede Ruins 342 Jumba la Mtwana 338 Kenya Kenya 362 203 Tanzania Uganda 484 R Q Ruma National Park 271 rhinos 14, 303, 359, rhinos457 359, 303, 14, rift valley fever 660 Rwanda 39, Rwanda 503 39, Ruaha National Park 176-8 Rubondo Island National Park 157 Ruhengeri 515-19, ruins 15 rock hyraxes 610, rock 610, hyraxes Rothschild giraffes 222, 595, Rubia, Charles 355 Rift Valley Rift249 Valley religion 571, 580 rabies rabies 660 radio 641 Ras Mkumbuu 89 ratels 613 Queen Elizabeth II 289 Queen Elizabeth National Park Pugu Hills 56 pupil’s pass 369 684 Tanzania 38, 42-214, 44‑5, 147, 161, Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve U 425‑6 172, 186 Uganda 39, 377‑492, 380-1, 404, accommodation 46‑7, 201 Tour d’Afrique 580 418-19, 458 activities 202-3 tourist information accommodation 484 budget 43 Burundi 563 activities 484 climate 42 Democratic Republic of the Congo budget 378 (DRC) 497 consulates 203-4 business hours 484‑5 Kenya 368 cultural tips 43 children, travel with 485 e IN Rwanda 514, 553 culture 42, 199‑200 climate 377 D Tanzania 206 currency 203 consulates 485‑6

X Uganda 396 customs regulations 203 cultural tips 378 T-V tours 651‑2, 656, see also safaris embassies 203-4 culture 377, 477‑8 coffee 108 environment 200‑1 currency 378 cultural 150, 160 exchange rates 43 drinking 483 walking 351 food2 47‑5 embassies 485‑6 train travel 214, 656 highlights 44‑5 environment 480‑3 travellers cheques 645 history 197-9 exchange rates 378 travel to/from East Africa 650‑2 internet access 204 food 483 travel within East Africa 652‑6 itineraries 43 gay travellers 486 trekking 15, 641‑2, 644, see also legal matters 204 highlights 380‑1 climbing, hiking maps 204 history 471‑7 Kenya 296, 318, 364, 365 money 204-5 internet access 486 Mt Elgon 412‑14 national parks itineraries 378 Mt Kilimanjaro 111‑14, 115, 120 & reserves 201 language 378 Mt Meru 129‑31 nature 42 language courses 486 planning information 42‑3 Ngorongoro Crater Highlands 139-40 lesbian travellers 486 plants 200-1 Nyungwe Forest National Park maps 486 religion 200 537‑8 money 378, 486 transport 43 Parc National des Volcans nature 377 travel seasons 42 523 planning information 377‑8 travel to/from 206-11 Rwanda 551 postal services 487 travel within 211‑14 Rwenzori Mountains National Park public holidays 487 visas 206 428 ‑9, 430‑1 religion 479 volunteering 206 Tanzania 110, 203 safe travel 471, 487 wildlife 200 volcanoes 451 sport 478‑9 Tanzanian Association of Tour tribal groups 579‑80, 583‑90 telephone services 487‑8 Operators 25 trucks 655‑6 transport 378 taxis 655, 656 trypanosomiasis 660 travel seasons 377 tea 274, 635 Tsavo East National Park 247‑9, travel to/from 489‑91 telephone services 646 244-5, 619 travel within 491‑2 terrorism 356 Tsavo West National Park 243‑7, visas 378, 488 theft 638 244-5 volunteering 488‑9 Thiong’o, Ngũgĩ wa 358, 571, 632 tsetse flies 660 Uganda kob 606 Thomson, Joseph 575 Tshisekedi, Etienne 501 Uganda People’s Congress (UPC) 471 Thomson’s Falls 289‑91, 290 tuberculosis 660 Ukerewe 157 Thomson’s gazelles 606, Tukuyu 181‑2 607 UN Assistance Mission for Rwanda time 646, 647, 648 Tumbe 90 (UNAMIR) 546 tipping 27, 645 Tunduru 185 Unesco World Heritage Sites 574 Kenya 367 Turkana Massacre 474 Unguja Ukuu 84 Rwanda 552 589‑90 Usambara Mountains 98‑103 Tanzania 205 turtles 340 Uganda 487 TV 362, 484 Tiwi Beach 331, 332 Twa people 585 V vacations, see public holidays toilets 646‑7 Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) 495 vegetarian travellers 634‑5 Uganda 425, 439, 445, 446, 451 vehicle safaris 30 vervet monkeys 602, 602 000 Map pages typhoid 660 visas 13, 647‑8 000 Photo pages Burundi 567 INE D X V-Z 685 59 5, 5, 8 ‑ 0 7 608 ‑ 60 3 ‑ 5, 5, 7 6 ‑ ‑ 6 ‑ 2 ‑ (ZPPP) 198 631 tours tours 65 travel agencies 74 travel to/from 74 travel within 74-5 accommodation 66 activities 65 dangers 73 diving 67 drinking 72 entertainment 72 festivals 68 food 70 internet access 73 medical services 73 money 73 postal services 73 shopping 72 sights5 59 tour operators 74 Z Zanzibar and Pemba Party People’s Zanzibar Archipelago 58 Zanzibar International Film Festival Zanzibar Nationalist Party (ZNP) 198 302, 594, 609, 457 Zanzibar 58 615 individual

161 20 , , 8 6 1 9 9 ‑ ‑ ‑ ‑ 606 , 6 see also ‑ 597 8, 8, 1 0 1 ‑ ‑ 6 internet resources ‑ 234 see countries 598-601 Kenya Kenya 359 Rwanda 538, 544, 551 200 Tanzania Uganda 480 Uganda 10, Uganda 405 10, annual migration 17 Kenya Kenya 364 Y weights 641 websites, websites, wine 635 women in East Africa 579 women travellers 648 work 649 War I World 577 War II World 501 yellow fever 660 waterfalls waterfalls 564 weather 12, 17 160 Tanzania Western Westlands 90 Wete white-backed vultures 615, white-water rafting wild cats 544, 594, 598-601, 14, 606, wildlife 597 593, 8, 14,

615 3 ‑ 8 ‑ 9 1 611 ‑ 7 4 ‑ ‑ hiking 522 see (DRC) 11 (DRC) 502 519-25, 519-25, Uganda Uganda 488 Kenya Kenya 0 369 Rwanda 504, 554 206 Tanzania Uganda 488 378, Democratic Republic of the Congo Rwanda 523 Uganda 451 Democratic Republic of the Congo Kenya Kenya 370 105, 206 Tanzania W walking tours 351 Wambaa 89 warthogs 610, Voi 249 Voi volcanoes 451 NationalVolcanoes Park 34-5, Watamu Watamu Marine National Park 340 water sports 354, 364 302 Wasini Wasini Island 336 Watamu 339 Waivimenya Waivimenya Bay 402 walking, vultures, vultures, white-backed 615, volunteering 648 686

These symbols will help you find the listings you want: Look out for 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking these icons: r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment Our author’s o recommendation Activities Sleeping Shopping 2 4 7 No payment F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection j Tram supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu d Train and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly environmentally friendly way, i # or supporting conservation Internet Access Pet-Friendly projects.

Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Entertainment Routes Boundaries Beach Entertainment Tollway International Buddhist Freeway State/Province Shopping Castle Primary Disputed Shopping Christian Secondary Regional/Suburb Hindu Information Tertiary Marine Park Islamic Bank Lane Cliff Jewish Embassy/ Unsealed Road Wall Monument Consulate Plaza/Mall Hydrography Museum/Gallery Hospital/Medical Steps River, Creek Ruin Internet Tunnel Intermittent River Winery/Vineyard Police Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Zoo Post Office Overpass Reef Other Sight Telephone Walking Tour Canal Toilet Walking Tour Activities, Courses Water Tourist Information Detour & Tours Dry/Salt/ Other Information Path Diving/Snorkelling Intermittent Lake Canoeing/Kayaking Transport Geographic Glacier Skiing Airport Hut/Shelter Areas Surfing Border Crossing Lighthouse Beach/Desert Swimming/Pool Bus Lookout Walking Cable Car/ Mountain/Volcano Cemetery Windsurfing Funicular Oasis (Christian) Other Activity/ Cycling Park Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Ferry Pass Park/Forest Sleeping Metro Picnic Area Sleeping Monorail Waterfall Sportsground Camping Parking Population Sight (Building) Petrol Station Eating Capital (National) Taxi Top Sight Eating Capital Train/Railway (Building) (State/Province) Drinking Tram City/Large Town Drinking Other Transport Town/Village Cafe 670

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Mary Fitzpatrick the last edition and wrote to us with help- I’d like to thank Anthony, Trent and Dean for ful hints, useful advice and interesting being such great coauthors, and for all their anecdotes: help with tips and information. Many thanks Chris Adam, James Argent, Rosemary also to David, Sam, Will and everyone else Armao, Morten Broberg, Al Bruce, James at Lonely Planet. My biggest thanks goes to Burton, Allan Cole, Christine Cooper, Lewis Rick, Christopher and Dominic for their fine Cunningham, Jill Daines & Michael Gasper, company, unflagging patience and wonder- Jelly De Jong, William Deed, Robbert Di- ful good humour while this book was being jkstra, Khalin Driver, Annelie Eddy, Tina researched and written. Fistravec, Catherine Fraser, Anita Geertsen, Gijs Gunterman, Stefanie Haehnel, Markus Anthony Ham Hesper, Gavin Hickey, Guy Hindley, Marco Special thanks to Peter Ndirangu, my driver Hoffmann, Annedee Jaeger, Naz Khakoo, and guide who quickly became a friend; he Terry Kita, Frederik Køhlert, Marloes Krom, taught me so much about Kenya. Thanks Stefan Lausch, Jonathan Levitt, Christine to Dr Darcy Ogada (Nairobi), Dea and Lisa Markiw, Izzy Marks, Erica Meadows, Anna Shupbach (Lake Naivasha), Philip Briggs, Miller, Keith Mitchell, Jenny Nakata, Sarit Leela Hazzah, Lisette Gelber, Eric Kesoi and Nathwani, Paige Newman, Armando Nogue- Kamunu Saitoti (Selenkay Conservancy). ira, Bettina Ortmann, Belen Oton, Nathan Back home, my three wonderful girls (Marina, Page, David Pap, Richard Raeon, Michele Carlota and Valentina) endure my absences Ragazzini, Guy Raven & Carolein Kuijpers, with good grace and welcome me home with Jeppe Robert, Stef Russell, Adam Sand- unbridled joy. One day, I will take you here. ell, Vera Scheepens, Robert Sheal, Lenke Slegers, Karen Spizer, Vidar Stefansson, Trent Holden Mark Stivers, Nick Thomas, Lesley Thomp- First up, thanks to Tim Bewer and Anne- son, Christos Venturas, Albert Vilanova, Na- Marie Weeden for the invaluable tips and talia Wadood, Sofie Wambeke, Daniel Wapp. contacts in Uganda. Big thanks to Robert Bri- erley, Debbie Willis, Cam McLeay, guys from 671 UWA, Jimmy my boda-boda driver, Jason, LuAnne Cadd and my wife, Debbie Starnes, Miha, Fred, John Hunwick and everyone who vastly improved long trips. At home my Mum helped out along the way. Also huge thanks and Dad, as always, held down the fort. to David Carroll for giving me a shot on this book. Finally, sending all my love to my family (including the newest addition, baby Saman- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS tha), and my girlfriend Kate. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Dean Starnes World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate It would be wrong not to acknowledge the Classification’, Hydrology and Earth SystemT N BEH legacy of work from previous editions, the Sciences, .11, 1633­44 assistance from my fellow authors and the I Cover photograph: Giraffe and elephants D hard work by the team at Lonely Planet. Big

ups to Greg Bakunzi, Emmanuel Munganga near Mt Kilimanjaro; DLILLC, Corbis. Many H

Rufubya, Augustin Ndikuriyo and Cai Tjeenk of the images in this guide are available for E

Willink for their kind assistance. The com- licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www. S CE pany of Andrew Mendelssohn, Alison Mollon, lonelyplanetimages.com. N E S

This Book Commissioning Editors Shawn Low, Erin Richards, Gabrielle Stefanos, Helen Yeates This 9th edition of Lonely David Carroll, Sam Trafford, Will Planet’s East Africa guidebook Gourlay Assisting Cartographers was researched and written by Coordinating Editors Anita Banh, Joelene Mary Fitzpatrick, Anthony Ham, Gabrielle Innes, Karyn Noble Kowalski, Jennifer Johnston, Trent Holden and Dean Starnes, Coordinating Cartogra- Jacqueline Nguyen and included research by Stuart pher Jolyon Philcox Cover Research Butler and Tim Bewer. The Wild- Coordinating Layout Naomi Parker life & Habitat chapter was written Designer Joseph Spanti Internal Image Research by David Lukas. The previous Managing Editors Claire Gibson edition was written by Mary Fitz- Barbara Delissen, Brigitte Ellemor Language Content patrick, Tim Bewer and Matthew Annelies Mertens, Branislava Firestone. This guidebook was Managing Cartographers Amanda Sierp, Adrian Persoglia Vladisavljevic commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Thanks to Elin Berglund, Melbourne office, and produced Managing Layout Design- Lucy Birchley, Ryan Evans, Anna by the following: ers Chris Girdler, Jane Hart Metcalfe, Anthony Phelan, Gerard Assisting Editors Walker, Trent Paton Nigel Chin, Carly Hall, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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