Camino de Santiago – Journal Update 23 This week: 38.7 miles Vilar de Donas to Monte do Gozo Total Miles: Contact us at [email protected] and visit us at www.sjnparish.org/camino-de-santiago/ 478.8 It’s hard to explain our feelings this week. This is the last full week walking the Camino — next week we will enjoy the fruits of our journey as we explore Santiago de Compostela. It is truly stunning that we have jour- neyed nearly 480 miles! Honestly, we weren’t sure that we could stick with it in the beginning. Though virtual, this has tested our endurance in different ways. We would be less than honest if we didn’t say that we marvel at the initiative, steadfastness and fortitude of pilgrims that actually do this journey: day after day; mile after mile; rain, heat, cold, wind, fog; difficult-to-locate paths; paths in poor conditions. We earnestly thank those before us that have inspired us and contributed to our journey. Once again, we decided to make a detour, longing to savor every last bit of the Camino. This time, we made our way to Vilar de Donas. It is a national monument and ancient seat of the Knights of Santiago (Knights of St. James). It dates back to the 10th C as a monastic church for nuns, hence the name do- nas, ‘women’. The Igrexa San Salvador is primarily from the 14th C but its origins go back to the formation of the convent. Most intriguing are the unique frescoes which are ‘haungtingly expressive’ as well as the stone effigies of the knights. We were thrilled to be met by a docent of the church who provided a tour and wonderful insights about the art and history of the church — though in Spanish, we were able to gather important information — between the words we’ve learned and our understanding of the Catholic faith and history we’ve learned on this journey!
We are glad for each little hamlet we pass through… we will miss their authenticity and testament to living life as it is. The Furelos village and its pilgrims hospice were under the ownership of the Hospitallers of San Juan in the 12th century. They protected and oversaw this village (and others), ran the hospital here and lived here. We entered, happily, over another medieval bridge, Puente de San Xoán (Bridge of St. John/San Juan), which is very picturesque just as the town is on the other side! The bridge still has the impressive stones that belonged to the original medieval road. They are massive. They are well worn. We stopped for a few minutes at the apex to imagine all those who have crossed over it for hundreds of years! We love these puentes and are not looking forward to our modern concrete bridges when we return home! The construction, however, may not be so easy for card drivers: the roadway on the bridge consists of two ramps —
one up and one down — they meet in the center with almost no transi- tion! Naturally, we were drawn to the local church, the Iglesia de San Xoán de Furelos which dates to the 13th C. It is a sanctuary within this little village. The outside betrays the grace within. See the next page for the unique portrayal of the Crucified Jesus. Photo: © Heidi Egerman
The Crucified Jesus / Iglesia de San Xoán de Furelos Onward to Melide! As we have learned, the northwest region of Spain has been inhabited since the Neolithic period. The area around Melide is filled with prehistoric remains to 2,000-year-old burial mounds, Iron Age relics and Roman roads. Much still remains to be excavated.
Melide became a transportation and commerce hub in the Middle Ages and had four pilgrim hospitals. Today, it
Photos: © Heidi Egerman is relatively large (by Camino standards!) at about 7,500 residents. The old town feels much like the other medieval towns we’ve been in: narrow, winding streets with shops, bars and restaurants serving regional special- ties — in this case, pulpo á feira (boiled octopus seasoned with sea salt, smoked paprika, and olive oil). Now, we must admit, some months ago, the anticipation of tasting some of these local dishes gave us the heebie-jeebies. But, we are proud to say, no longer. They have proved to be fresh, delightful experiences that reflect the area we are in. So, why is octopus appearing on the menus now? You guessed it, we are very close to Santiago de Compostela and, thus, closer to the ocean. Seems extraordinary since we began in the Pyrenees! In this town, the Camino route from Oviedo joins us — yet another indicator of our proximity to our destination! Pulpo á feira with table wine (note the table glass vs. a tradi- Would you be surprised if we said our first stop was at the Iglesia de San Pedro? tional wine glass — very common Well, we found out something very interesting here and it has little to do with in the local restaurants — and of course, wonderful, fresh bread. churches — think money. Now, while this currency may not be as familiar to all of our readers, pilgrims on this journey are now very familiar with the ten Euro note. And this church is looking awfully familiar. As it turns out, the ten euro banknote depicts bridges, arches & doorways in Romanesque architecture between the 11th and 12th centu- ries. The Iglesia de San Pedro’s doorway is the model for the architectural design for the ten Euro note! Interestingly, this entrance was actually salvaged from another church, San Roque (thus it is also called the Capilla de San Roque) — The current chapel of San Roque was built in 1949 with materials from the demolished churches of San Pedro and San Roque. Next to the Chapel is the famous Cruceiro de Melide, from the 14th century. It is the oldest crucifix in Galicia. Today, it stands on a modern column. Christ Majesty is seated, crowned, show- ing the wounds on his hands and with a cloth covering his legs. On the reverse is the representation of Calvary with Christ, Saint John, the Virgin and a kneeling figure, which could be Mary Magdalene or another person present at the crucifixion. This side has a dynamic feel, a sense of movement and action, as if the events are unfolding before our eyes. Check out the palm trees… so remarka- ble as we again recalled our start of our pilgrim- age in the Pyrenees. Our path next took us to the Plaza del Convento (Convent Square) and a ra- ther austere looking parish church, Sancti Spiritus (Holy Spirit) which was formerly a 14th C Augustinian monastery. Would it surprise you if we said, ‘Don’t judge this church by its cover?”
As per usual, this church does not disappoint, offering new things to see — we were intrigued by the 14th C tombs.
Being in the church of the Holy Spirit reminded us of a travel prayer we were In the name of God I go on this journey. given along the way, it seemed fitting as we spend time in prayer here, look- May God the Father be with me, God the Son protect ing back on a journey that we feel has, indeed, been protected. me, and God the Holy Spirit be by my side. Amen.
On our way out of town, we visite the Iglesia de Santa Maria de Melide— a beautiful Romanesque church from the 11th C — other pilgrims had mentioned this as a ‘must see’. It was. Simple, serene, small, intimate... yet exquisite in its own way. Fortunately, we were able to visit on Sunday which is the only day that Mass is offered! That, most definitely, was a bonus. Two ornate entries greet pilgrims and inside are some gorgeous frescoes — the older are from the 12th C and the more recent from the 15th C (we now have a new perspective on ‘recent’, ha, ha!) The main fresco features the Trinity —look closely at the left picture: God the Father, the Holy Spirit, and then Jesus. Around them are the four Gospel writers, depicted as a winged man (Matthew), a lion (Mark), an ox (Luke) and an eagle (John). The older paintings were more focused on geomet- ric designs. Our tour guide, Jose Antonio, told us that there are underground sources of water — which flow exactly under the baptismal font. Jose also share with us two illustrations of the Game of Goose! He was able to share insights about its mystical Camino and Templar connects. So cool.
Boente, a special place on the Camino. But why? Not the church, no. Queimada! Oh boy. Queimada means ’burnt’ and is an adult beverage made in either a cast-iron cauldron or in a terracotta cooking pot. It is otherwise known as the Galicia Fire Drink! Traditionally, the ritual is performed at times of transition, such as on All Saints’ Day or the coming of winter, etc. However, pilgrims are able to enjoy the experience at local places. And so we did! During this adventure, we learned how queimada is made. We tried it. It belongs on the list of “done that, not doing it again,” ha, ha, ha. Read on...
The process begins with orujo, a strong spirit made from the remains of the winemaking process (akin to how brandy is made). It is poured into the cauldron with a few tablespoons of sugar, a few whole coffee beans, lemon peels, and some orange zest. Photo: Alain Crespo The blue flames; The concoction is stirred while the maker recites a tradi- Preparing to serve; tional blessing or spell to ward off evil spirits that want to curse the souls that cross their path. Then the surface is lit on fire; the burning finishes the flavor. The Spell. All who are gathered are offered a cup of the blue-flaming elixir! This drink is not for the faint of heart. Galicia is known in Spain for its dairy and cheese. However, Arzúa takes the crown, is the capital of dairy and cheese in Galicia and is known as the ‘land of cheese’! This may explain our frequent en- counter of the bovine kind as we came into town! We learned that Arzúa has one of the highest number of cows per capita! The deli-
Queso de Arzúa / Óscar Cela cious Queso de Arzúa (cheese of Arzúa made from the blended milk of three special breeds of cow that graze on the hills and Cows on the road! mountains of Galicia. But, Arzúa’s cows graze in special areas, lending to its unique flavor. And cheese turns up everywhere in this town and on the menu! Along the roadside, we spotted yet another Santiago mark- er for the Camino as well as some unusual architecture! While here, we visited the O Enredo Do Abelleiro — a small family-run museum that focuses on sharing the importance of the bee! It’s a ‘living museum’ highlighting the diversity of products and methods of beekeeping. We were able to see the plants that the beehives are ac- tive in by joining the beekeeper in his workshop and apiary, accompa- nying him as he did in his tasks! Very cool. It was one of those quirky, simple places that was very interesting to experience. Of course, the delicious part was the oppor- tunity to taste and purchase various natural products derived from the bees (think honey): honey, honey in honeycomb, honey & jelly, honey & cinnamon… Yum! A fun visit. Santa Irene, tiny, with a population of fewer than twenty, has a 17th C stone fountain dedicated to their patron, Saint Irene. Sadly, in 1989, someone stole the statue in its central niche. The statue had been there since 1682 (what’s wrong with people?) Since that time, pilgrims have placed stones in the empty niche, just as we have seen the placement of stones throughout the Camino. The legend of the fountain is that its waters have miraculous and healing attributes. But, since it isn’t potable, we didn’t give it a try! At our next stop, Lavacolla, we learned that medieval pilgrims washed their private parts in the freshwater stream that passes through town. The name of the town derives from the practice, but we won’t provide the translation as we are on a family-friendly pilgrimage. Nonetheless, pilgrims make a ritual cleansing here — to prepare for arrival in Santiago de Compostela — by letting go of any meta- phorical baggage not yet dispensed. We are ready — we eagerly await arrival in Santi- ago with a clean mind and spirit! Our final stop was beyond exciting… Monte do Gozo (Mount of Joy)!!! We climbed the 1,247-foot mount. This is the histor- ic hill from which medieval pilgrims could first see Santiago de Compostela’s three cathedral spires and so cried out, “Mont Joie!” (Mount Joy!). We, too, reached the top and were rewarded with the same exuberance of all the pilgrims before us. “Mount Joy!” we shouted in excitement, we hugged each other… smiles were everywhere! We have nearly finished our pilgrimage, our destination is in site! Standing with us were two larger-than-life pilgrims looking west to the towers of Santiago’s cathedral. And another monument commem- orates the visits of Pope John Paul II in 1993 and Saint Francis of Assisi in the early 13th century — their likenesses are emblazoned on the pedestal. At the top is a modern sculpture and cross. Just down the hill, a humble little chapel, Capilla de San Marcos, a perfect way to round out this experience. Our next steps will bring us to Santiago de Compostela — to greet and honor St. James! We’ll arrive in time for Mardi Gras (Carnival. The perfect way to celebrate! Join in next weekend — in church & online! Source: Camino de Santiago – Sacred Sites, Historic Villages; A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago; Village to Village Guide Camino de Santiago