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1 The Best of Philadelphia

Cliché-sounding statement number one: Philadelphia is a lovely city. I live here, in a tiny fifth-floor walk-up studio on 8th Street, between Pine and Lombard. When I look out my back window, I can see the steeple of the old Pine Street church George Washington attended. Beyond the steeple are shiny-windowed high-rise apartments. Beyond them are blipping lights of planes coasting over the Delaware River into Philadelphia International Airport. The view from the front of my apartment is of 19th-century rooftops, rising skyscrapers—and a single roof deck with a pair of sun- bathing poodles. The nation’s oldest hospital is a half a block from my home: I pass it every time I head out to shop in Old City, or to work in my office near Rittenhouse Square. Both are about a 15-minute walk, provided I don’t stop in any of the dozen or so amazing little cafes along the way. About once a week, folks passing my apartment ask for direc- tions to Pat’s and Geno’s, South Philly’s famous cheesesteak stands. These tiny details of my daily life make me hometown-proud (cliché number two). To me, a reformed suburbanite, Philadelphia is the perfect American city. I love that it surrounds me with some of our country’s most important historic monuments. I love that its buildings are a blend of the extremely old and the super-new. I love the mistakenly planted gingko trees, the Rocky footprints at the top of the Art Museum steps (although I’m not sure about the statute), the fresh mozzarella cheese at Clau- dio’s in the Italian Market, New Year’s Day’s debauched Two Street party after the annual Mummer’s Parade (which I also love). And I love that in 20 minutes I can walk anywhere in Center City. I haven’t always gone weak in the knees for Philly, though. My crush came about gradually. When I moved back 10 years ago, I thought I was stopping over on my way to New York. But something strange happened: Philadelphia kept my attention. Every time I turned around, there was another great place to eat dinner, another incredible art opening, another amazing boutique, bar, band, exhibit, or event. As Philadelphia blossomed, so did my feelings for it. And I’m not the only one who feels this way about Philadelphia. While other cities have seen smallCOPYRIGHTED hardware stores and haberdasheries and MATERIAL independent coffee shops giv- ing way to chains and big-box stores, here, people hung in, roasting their own coffee beans and defiantly creating their own art. The result: In 2005, National Geographic Traveler lauded Philadelphia as the “Next Great City.” Just before that, the New York Times called us the “sixth borough.” Of , my City of Brotherly Love still has a long way to go. Not all Philadel- phians live on a block as safe as mine. Beyond Center City, beyond University City and Chestnut Hill, are pockets—giant pockets—riddled with serious poverty and unspeakable violence. And, in the very near future, massive, 24-hour casinos will set 05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 5

FROMMER’S FAVORITE PHILADELPHIA EXPERIENCES 5 up their depressing, addictive trade around town. To my mind, this change can only make matters worse. If I had to choose one inspiring must-do for visitors, I’d recommend a Mural Arts Tour (& 215/685-0754; www.muralarts.org). Mural Arts guides take you into Philly’s other neighborhoods, the ones that don’t appear in guidebooks. You’ll cruise by smooth walls blanketed in brilliant colors. You’ll learn how beautifying communi- ties, working with one paintbrush, one child at a time, can bring about positive trans- formation. The experience is moving, restorative, and educational. It re-teaches you the classic lesson of the city, and America itself: One small step, one giant leap. Right here, on earth, in Philadelphia: a generally lovely place to be.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Philadelphia Experiences • Taking Afternoon at Nineteen: park—some of them are virtually The 19th-floor cafe-in-the-round at unchanged since Revolutionary the grand Park Hyatt at the Bellevue times. We’ll settle for gazing at the recently reinstituted tea service, and hundreds of flame azaleas that bloom little girls and their mommies are get- behind the Art Museum in spring, ting out their white gloves in antici- special visits to Shofuso Japanese tea- pation. The bird’s-eye view from the house, and winter strolls along the cafe’s impossibly tall windows is spec- Wissahickon Creek. See p. 151. tacular—enhancing the jambon royal • Gallery Hopping on First Friday: sandwiches and chocolate shortbread. On the first Friday of every month, See p. 101. the galleries, stores, and studios of • Visiting the Barnes Foundation: Old City—just north of Indepen- The Barnes Foundation Gallery in dence National Historical Park— Merion houses the most important remain open with refreshments and private collection of Impressionist artists on hand until 9pm. Wander and early French modern paintings in along the cobblestone streets, pop- the world, displaying more Cézannes ping in where you fancy, before a than all the museums of France put night out in this happening part of together. The building was designed town. See p. 177. by Paul Philippe Cret, and is amaz- • Stepping Back in Time in Historic ing, not only for its lovely design, but Philadelphia: The reclamation of also because Albert Barnes was metic- this country’s Colonial capital has ulous about displaying the works, been nearly miraculous, from the often juxtaposing them with objets Liberty Bell’s gleaming new home to such as antique iron locks or African the renovation of hundreds of row tribal masks. It appears the museum houses with their distinctive brick- will move to Center City Philadel- work and 18th-century formal gar- phia in the coming years, so schedule dens (and welcoming benches). But your visit to the current location the costumed town criers with free now: You may not get another maps and the Revolutionary War–era chance. See p. 130. street theater really bring the experi- • Wandering Through Fairmount ence to life. Just wander; they’ll find Park: It would take dozens of outings you. See “Independence National to fully explore the 100 miles of trails Historical Park: America’s Most His- in this 8,900-acre giant of an urban toric Square Mile,” in chapter 7. 05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA

Fun Fact A Central City

1 Thirty-eight percent of the nation’s population lives within a 4 ⁄2-hour drive of Philadelphia.

• Eating the Sandwich: We all love scattered throughout the year, but history, art, a great jazz solo, and a during the pre-Christmas season, swanky night on the town. But the with their period decorations, they craving for Philly’s number-one fast are especially lovely. See the somehow surpasses all other “Philadelphia Calendar of Events,” in desires. It’s primal, an urge that chapter 2. comes over you the moment you • Breathing Deeply at the Philadel- enter city limits. The inimitable phia Flower Show: In early March, cheesesteak, spelled in one word, the Flower Show—the largest and available with sharp Provolone or most prestigious indoor exhibition of gooey Cheez Whiz and “wid” or its kind in the world—descends on “widout” sautéed onions, is, to many the Pennsylvania Convention Center, a traveler, worth the trip alone. Find with acres of orchids and traditional it, along with some of the city’s other and exotic displays. See p. 19. unsung culinary heroes (pun • Exploring the Philadelphia Museum intended), in chapter 6. of Art: It has a stupendous collection • Strolling Around Rittenhouse of masterpieces, period rooms, and Square at Night: When the rest of crafts, and is becoming one of the Philadelphia’s city squares grow quiet hottest museums in the country for at night, this one twinkles with activ- special exhibitions. Look for more ity. Patrons toast each other at bistro blockbusters like the recent exhibits sidewalk tables. Couples cross the of works by Eakins and Degas: “Renoir park, hand-in-hand. On a summer Landscapes” is scheduled for fall night, you’re likely to come upon a 2007. Wednesday and Friday evening free musical performance in the hours have become convivial social square’s center. In winter, you’ll be scenes, with cocktails and live music. dazzled by the bright balls of lights in See p. 130. the treetops. See p. 201. • Cheering the Regattas along the • Enjoying the Lights at Night: The Schuylkill: On any spring weekend, William Penn statue atop City Hall, stand along Boathouse Row just the Ben Franklin Bridge, and seven north of the Philadelphia Museum of Schuylkill River bridges are perma- Art, and get ready to cheer. Crews nently lighted, joining the beautiful race each other every 5 minutes or so, white pin lights that outline the boat- with friends lining the riverbanks houses along the Schuylkill River. rooting for them. See p. 163. • Touring an Open House: If you’re • Getting Lost in the Reading Termi- in the city at the right time, don’t nal Market: You’ll never go com- miss the tours of restored mansions in pletely missing, but you will Society Hill, Rittenhouse Square, or definitely get caught up in the maze Fairmount Park for a delightful les- of stalls at this historic market. And son in Colonial-era interior design when you stumble upon an Amish and Americana. The open houses are food counter, artisan baker, local 05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 7

FROMMER’S FAVORITE PHILADELPHIA EXPERIENCES 7 The Eastern Seaboard CCANADAANADA  101 QQUEBECUEBEC 40 QuébecQuébec 11 117 20 17 17 105 69 MontreálMontreál 55 201 60 OttawaOttawa Georgian  10 Bay MMAINEAINE OONTARIONTARIO 91 2 Lake LLakeake 95 CChamplainhamplain VVERMONTERMONT Huron 7 11 AAugustaugusta 89  BBurlingtonurlington  1 AADIRONDACKDIRONDACK MontpelierMontpelier 495 21 87 6 400 401 MMOUNTAINSOUNTAINS 7 16 NNEWEW PortlandPortland TTorontooronto  81 28 NNEWEW HHAMPSHIREAMPSHIRE e O ntario Lak YYORKORK ConcordConcord RochesterRochester UUticatica MManchesteranchester PPortsmouthortsmouth 402 NNiagaraiagara 90 SSyracuseyracuse 90 AlbanyAlbany FFallsalls FingerFinger 91 88  BBostonoston CCapeape 401 BBuffalouffalo LakesLakes n MMASS.ASS.  CCodod KKATSKILLATSKILL o 96 s 90 rie MMOUNTAINSOUNTAINS d E 86 u ake EErierie BBinghamtoninghamton SSpringfieldpringfield PProvidencerovidence L y H  n S 90 e IN 

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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA farmer, or elegant cake display, sud- Dogfishhead, Victory, Stout’s, and denly finding your way out doesn’t other area brewers. seem so essential. See p. 102. • Catching a Phillies Game at the • Exploring South Philly: Exuberant Ballpark: A summer night at the new attitude punctuates every interchange Citizens Bank Park means great views you’ll have, whether strolling (with from every seat in this old-fashioned- ample tastings) through the Italian style stadium, with its amazing local Market or seeking out the area’s great such as Tony Luke’s cheeses- pizzas, cannoli, or famed cheesesteaks teaks. If you sit on the third level, farther south. See p. 54 for a descrip- you’ll also see a perfectly framed view tion of the neighborhood and p. 106 of the Center City skyline. When for info on where to eat. Ryan Howard homers, watch the • Drinking Local Beer: One hundred giant Liberty Bell light up and ring. years ago, Philadelphia was known as See p. 163. the greatest brewing city in the West- • Taking in the Mummer’s Parade: ern Hemisphere. It’s not quite that Grown men dancing in feathers, anymore, but it’s regaining ground. sequins, and spandex mark the Bars like Standard Tap (p. 211), annual New Year’s Day Mummer’s McGillin’s (p. 211), Good Dog Bar Parade (www.mummers.com), in and Restaurant (p. 210), Royal Tav- which thousands strut their way up ern (p. 211), and, especially, Monk’s Broad Street. The music is loud and (p. 211) feature delicious craft brews, antiquated, but the experience is fes- many of them by Yards, Flying Fish, tive and fun. Bundle up. See p. 145.

2 The Best Hotel Bets • Best Historic Hotel: Well, it’s only • Best for a Romantic Getaway: The the “lite” version of what it used to Penn’s View Hotel, Front and Mar- be, when Thomas Edison designed ket streets (& 800/331-7634), feels the fixtures and the ballroom defined like an exquisite club, with views over swank. But the top floor of the Park the Delaware River. And how could Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue, you not like what the New York Times Broad and Walnut streets, or 1415 hails as “the mother of all wine bars” Chancellor Ct., between Walnut and downstairs? See p. 74. Locust streets (& 800/223-1234), • Best Hotel Lobby for Pretending with its Library Lounge bar and pas- You’re Rich: There’s no place like the tel-painted, domed Barrymore tea- cool, plush Four Seasons Hotel, 1 room, retains traces of a century’s Logan Sq. (& 800/332-3442), for worth of history. See p. 78. rubbing elbows with the moneyed • Best for Business Travelers: Hotel elite (it’s also a great place to stay if Sofitel, 120 S. 17th St. (& 800/ you are the moneyed elite). The SOFITEL), has a convenient loca- Swann Lounge overlooking Logan tion and rooms that are large and ele- Circle is a constant stream of chic gant, with easy access to plugs and outfits, custom suits, and the fre- modem jacks at a handsome desk. quent black tie. See p. 76. The delicious French coffee doesn’t • Best for Families: The Hilton Inn at hurt either. The service staff is effi- Penn, in West Philadelphia at 3600 cient and courteous. See p. 77. Sansom St. (& 800/445-8667), is a 05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 9

THE BEST HOTEL BETS 9 cross-town ride from the historical courteously—and appearing to have sights, but offers the whole family fun all the while. See p. 76. space to roam among spacious corri- • Best Hotel for Historic District dors, ever-present fruit to munch on Hopping: If you’re here to see Inde- and tea to sip in a comfortable library pendence Park, why not wake up lounge, plus TV for children to watch looking at it through the floral chintz while parents exercise. The campus of curtains at the Omni Hotel at Inde- U. Penn across the street is perfect for pendence Park, 4th and Chestnut throwing a Frisbee or playing tag. See streets (& 800/843-6664)? All 150 p. 82. In Center City, Loews guest rooms have views of the Greek Philadelphia Hotel, 1200 Market St. Revival Second Bank of the U.S. and (& 215/627-1200), doesn’t have the a half-dozen of America’s Georgian biggest rooms in town, but it’s got a jewels. And the clip-clopping of great game closet. See p. 72. horses and carriages below maintains • Best Moderately Priced Hotel: The the historical feel. See p. 69. Hotel Windsor, 1700 Benjamin • Best Hotel Health Club: The Sport- Franklin Pkwy. near Rittenhouse ing Club at the Bellevue, on Broad Square and City Hall (& 877/784- Street between Walnut and Locust 8379), is the best choice in its price streets (& 215/985-9867), counts range. A one-room suite with two Governor Rendell, Dr. J., and most double beds and full goes for of the city’s movers and shakers $150. A generous continental break- among its members. Honorary mem- fast is included in the rate. See p. 80. bership is given to guests of the Park • Best B&B: Shippen Way Inn, 418 Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue. Bainbridge St. (& 800/245-4873 or The gym facilities are the best in 215/627-7266), has nine rooms in town, and classes are top-notch. See two Queen Village row houses built p. 78. around 1750 and lovingly main- • Best Hotel Pool: Splashing around tained. You might also try Ten the glassed-in pool of the Hyatt Eleven Clinton, 1011 Clinton St. Regency Philadelphia at Penn’s (& 215/923-8144), an elegant 1836 Landing, 201 S. Columbus Blvd. Federal town house on a quiet tree- (& 215/928-1234), is doubly fun, lined street. See “A Historic Bed & because just beyond the pool is the ” on p. 78. Delaware River. See p. 69. For exer- • Best Service: The staff at the Four cise and a skyscraper city view, how- Seasons Hotel, 1 Logan Sq. (& 215/ ever, the skinny lap pool at the Loews 963-1500), knows the number-one Philadelphia Hotel, 1200 Market secret of flawless service: Be nice. St. (& 215/627-1200) is well worth (They know the second secret, too: the $10 per-visit charge. See p. 72. Always keep your cool.) No matter • Best Views: In Center City, all the how many NBA players are in their rooms at the Rittenhouse Hotel, exquisite Fountain Restaurant, no 210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 800/ matter which rock-’n’-roll giants are 635-1042), have wonderful views of taking tea in the Swann Lounge, or the Philly landscape, from the leafy who turned up in the whirlpool at park below on the east to the western 4am, these employees take it in stride, view of the Schuylkill and the Park- getting their jobs done efficiently and way. See p. 78. 05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA • Best Hotel Restaurants: The Zagat St. (& 800/SOFITEL), has modern guide to restaurants has listed the decor, a groovy long bar, and lots of Fountain Restaurant in the Four French people swanning around, plus Seasons, 1 Logan Sq. (& 215/963- Deco-contemporary furniture and a 1500), as one of the country’s top 10 great location for shopping near Wal- dining spots. A here is virtually nut Street. (We’re expecting some perfect, with high prices to match the tough competition in this category high quality. See p. 98. A worthy rival when the W Hotel opens in 2009.) is Lacroix at the Rittenhouse Hotel, See p. 77. 210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 215/ • Best Hostel: Centrally located near 546-9000). This haute-meets-mod- all the historical and nightlife attrac- ern French restaurant is soothing and tions, the Bank Street Hostel, 32 S. sleek, with park views, limestone Bank St. (& 800/392-4678 or accents, and elegant green-velvet seat- 215/922-0222), is smack in the Old ing; it has received great acclaim from City/Society Hill nexus; it’s perfect Esquire’s John Mariani, among oth- for budget or adventurous travelers. ers. See p. 98. See p. 86. • Best Splurge Hotel: The Ritz-Carl- • Best Country Getaway: Plush lodg- ton Philadelphia, 10 Avenue of the ings scattered throughout a pictur- Arts (& 215/523-8000), delivers an esque hamlet, proximity to the overwhelming dose of luxury, with its gorgeous Brandywine Valley’s fine massive domed lobby, lavish furnish- attractions, plus an on-site spa and ings, and clubby bars. Upgrade to the deliciously eclectic restaurant make Club Level for less than $50 and the Inn at Montchanin Village, experience a lounge spread of cham- Route 100 and Kirk Road, Mont- pagne and endless hors d’oeuvres. See chanin, DE (& 800/269-2473 or p. 79. 302/888-2133; www.montchanin. • Best Trendy Hotel: Philly’s luxuri- com) an incomparable weekend ously hip Hotel Sofitel, 120 S. 17th retreat. See p. 233.

3 The Best Restaurant Bets • Best Spot for a Romantic Dinner: • Best Spot for a Celebration: If you Friday Saturday Sunday, 261 S. 21st want to celebrate a special occasion in St. (& 215/546-4232), has long a lavish setting, opulent Le Bec-Fin, been a top spot for couples. The 1523 Walnut St. (& 215/567-1000), bistro’s modest decor, menu, and is the way to go. Georges Perrier’s prices (especially for wine) keep dis- prix-fixe menu has an international tractions to a minimum. See p. 100. reputation, and the dessert cart is • Best Spot for a Business : unforgettable. See p. 98. Lacroix at the Rittenhouse Hotel, • Best Decor: The spaceship-like decor 210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 215/ at Morimoto at 723 Chestnut St. 546-9000), offers a stunningly good (& 215/413-9070) will take your three-course, $26 prix-fixe lunch in breath away, but order a meal here its ethereal yet unstuffy dining room. and you’ll see that interior design is Your dining partners will be the city’s just the beginning: Masahuru Mori- power brokers, and the menu of the moto’s delicious fare is downright day might include ragout of lobster sculptural. See p. 88. and white asparagus. See p. 98. 05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 11

THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS 11 • Best View: Sitting on the deck of the (& 215/731-0800), a former diner Moshulu, 411 S. Columbus Blvd. turned into a stylish modern space (& 215/923-2500), a 1904 “tall that serves breakfast, lunch, and din- ship” that’s been converted into a ner (plus snacks all afternoon). Parents roomy, luxe French-Asian restaurant, also love the casual, romping-permit- might sound touristy, but in reality, ted vibe, plus the full bar and upscale it’s delightful. Even in the winter, the side of the menu, with its grilled fish ship’s indoor dining rooms offer and savory . See p. 105. lovely Delaware River and Society • Best Date Restaurant: For a classy Hill views. And in summer, the bistro with contemporary fare in Old breeze is as cooling as one of its 20 City, reserve a deuce at Fork, 306 wines by the glass. See p. 94. Market St. (& 215/625-9425). See • Best Wine List: Two restaurants p. 89. Friday Saturday Sunday, 261 owned by the Sena family offer S. 21st St. (& 215/546-4232), has impressive wine selections: La been a classic, intimate date spot Famiglia, 8 S. Front St. (& 215/ since the 1970s, and boasts consistent 922-2803; p. 92), has one of the fare, glowing lighting, and great finest cellars in the world according value. See p. 100. to Wine Spectator magazine. One • Best American : Using local block north, the Ristorante Panor- ingredients from Amish and Bucks ama, in the Penn’s View Hotel at County boutique farmers, and incor- Front and Market streets (& 215/ porating the worthier elements of 922-7800; p. 95), is a charming Ital- new without the ian trattoria that has 120 different annoying flourishes, Fork, at 306 bottles available by the glass, or as a Market St. (& 215/625-9425), is as 3-ounce “taste.” Order a “flight”— popular for brunch as it is for a late- five glasses grouped around a theme. night snack. In this warm, sophisti- Flights fall in the $14-to-$50 range. cated dining room, you can dine on • Best Value: Dining at the mod-Deco pan-seared salmon or spicy hanger bar at Brasserie Perrier, 1619 Wal- steak. See p. 89. nut St. (& 215/568-3000), with its • Best : Sure, there $16 steak frites or incomparable are fancier places in town, but none roasted chicken (also $16), means are as straightforward and note-per- savoring cuisine overseen by the city’s fect as Chinatown’s Lee How Fook, most famous , Georges Perrier of 219 N. 11th St. (& 215/925-7266). Le Bec-Fin. The restaurant behind The simple, handsome space—one of this colorful lounge offers haute- the city’s hundreds of BYOBs—does bistro food at higher prices, with a beautiful job with everything they entrees in the $35 range. See p. 99. touch: hot pots, noodle soups, salt- • Best Value on a Fixed-Price Meal: baked seafood, and more. See p. 112. There’s nothing like Le Bec-Fin’s $45 • Best Continental Cuisine: The lunch, at 1523 Walnut St. (& 215/ Fountain Restaurant at the Four 567-1000), for classic French. See Seasons Hotel, 1 Logan Sq., between p. 98. 18th Street and Franklin Parkway • Best for Kids: Kids love the burgers, (& 215/963-1500), is consistently grilled cheeses, soups, and other clas- rated best in town for understated, sic American fare at the upscale complex versions of classic Continen- Marathon Grill, 1839 Spruce St. tal dishes. Because the food is so 05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA uniformly excellent, my advice is to Roast Pork (p. 118). Learn about go with the chef’s choices on the this spot, and all the rest of ’em in fixed-price menu. See p. 98. “The Ultimate Cheesesteak Taste • Best : Right now, it’s Test” on p. 116. the serene Lacroix in the Rittenhouse • Best Hoagies: Using seeded Italian Hotel, 210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. made a couple doors down, (& 215/546-9000), where the Sarcone’s Deli, 9th and Fitzwater exquisite menu is rooted in classical streets (& 215/922-1717), comes up French , but benefits from with the best Italian sandwiches in Chef Jean-Marie Lacroix’s modern the city. (A bold statement, I know.) technique. See p. 98. Choose from classic cold cuts, or spe- • Best Steakhouse: With a half-dozen cialty sandwiches that combine great choices, including the Capital roasted red peppers, sharp Provolone, Grille and the Palm, the top choice long hots, and whole cloves of garlic. is The Prime Rib, 1701 Locust St. • Best Desserts: Weekends, The Ritz- (& 215/772-1701), offering tender Carlton Hotel, 10 Avenue of the porterhouse served with fresh shred- Arts (& 215/523-8000), offers a ded horseradish. The ambience is a dessert buffet in its grand lobby, and timeless 1940s-style place—jazz com- this wonderfully excessive spread of bos and formally clad waiters 40 desserts, priced at $19 per person, included. See p. 101. has become a popular way to end a • Best Burgers and Beer: Discerning Friday or Saturday evening down- Philadelphia Inquirer restaurant critic town. You may even want to skip Craig La Ban recently wrote a lauda- dinner altogether and save room for tory haiku about the blue cheese– tarte Tatin and chocolate gâteau. See stuffed burger at Good Dog Bar and p. 79. Restaurant, 224 S. 15th St. (& 215/ • Best Breakfast: At Sam’s Morning 985-9600), a youthful Center City Glory, 10th and Fitzwater streets gastro-pub. There’s a trick to it, (& 215/413-3999), the coffee comes though: You have to order it medium in big, steely mugs; doughy biscuits or rarer; otherwise, the cheese bakes are cut square; and the pancakes are out. See p. 210. the best you’ll eat, anywhere, ever. See • Best Pizza: Marra’s, 1734 E. p. 108. Passyunk Ave., between Morris and • Best Brunch: Nearly every restaurant Moore streets (& 215/463-9249), in offers Sunday brunch, ranging from South Philadelphia, has pies with thin standard bagels with spreads to a full crusts and delicious, spicy toppings, breakfast menu. The White Dog baked in brick ovens; enjoy them in Café, 3420 Sansom St. (& 215/386- old wooden booths. See p. 107. 9224), in West Philadelphia, swings • Best Cheesesteak: There’s no going both ways, serving everything from wrong at the big guys (Pat’s, Geno’s, simple breakfast dishes to elaborate and Jim’s), but there’s something just late-morning feasts in a completely a bit better about the composition of comfortable, unpretentious setting. the steak at South Philly’s tiny John’s See p. 109. 05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 13

THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS 13 • Best People-Watching: Rouge, 205 • Best Outdoor Dining: Just off the S. 18th St. (& 215/732-6622), a park that bears its name, stylish bistro with alfresco cafe tables, has Washington Square, 210 S. Wash- become the city’s most sought-after ington Sq. (& 215/592-7787), real estate from May through Sep- offers a prime, Palm Beach-y setting tember. See p. 101. If you want to for noshing interesting international spot a celebrity (J. Lo, Cameron fare while sipping cocktails. For the Diaz, and Justin Timberlake have all best outdoor dining with a view, dined here), your favorite NBA however, head over to the Water player, or an aging rocker, head to the Works Restaurant and Lounge, Swann Lounge at the Four Seasons, located behind the Philadelphia 1 Logan Square (on 18th St.; & 215/ Museum of Art, off Kelly Drive 963-1500) where you can pretend (& 215/236-9000). Ask for a table not to stare while perching on a plush by the river, and watch the sun set couch. See p. 212. over the Schuylkill River as the lights • Best Afternoon Tea: The advent of on Boathouse Row come up. See true luxury hotels in Philadelphia has p. 101. also brought exquisite afternoon teas • Best Late-Night Dining: Follow the served all over town. The Cassatt post-bar crowd to Pat’s and Geno’s, Lounge at the Rittenhouse Hotel, the dueling cheesesteak vendors of 210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 215/ South Philly, and you’ll experience a 546-9000), has muted, lovely decor, culinary phenomenon: A greasy steak a garden, and Mary Cassatt’s draw- sandwich tastes much, much better at ings commemorating her brother’s 3am. See p. 115. house, which once stood on the site. • Best Ice Cream: For the old-fash- See p. 78. ioned: Although Franklin Fountain, • Best for Pre-Theater Dinner: At 116 Market St. (& 215/627-1899), sleek Bliss, 220 S. Broad St. (& 215/ is a relatively new addition to Old 731-1100), the eclectic menu fea- City, it feels as though it’s been here tures pastas, Asian-inspired dishes, for about 50 years. Come here for and grilled fare. Ernesto’s 1521 Café, sloppy sundaes, egg creams, ice- 1521 Spruce St. (& 215/546-1521), cream sodas, and other back-in-the- is an affordable, modern Italian day treats. See p. 105. trattoria with handmade . See p. 104.