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02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:21 PM Page iii Contents What’s New in Puerto Rico 1 1 The Best of Puerto Rico 3 1 The Best Beaches . .4 8 The Best Family Resorts . .12 2 The Best Hotel Beaches . .6 9 The Best Honeymoon Resorts . .12 3 The Best Scuba Diving . .7 10 The Best Big Resort Hotels . .13 4 The Best Snorkeling . .8 11 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels . .14 5 The Best Golf & Tennis . .9 12 The Best Attractions . .15 6 The Best Hikes . .10 13 The Best Restaurants . .16 7 The Best Natural Wonders . .11 14 The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences . .18 2 Puerto Rico in Depth 20 1 Puerto Rico Today . .20 4 The Population & Popular Culture . .37 2 History 101 . .22 5 Comida Criolla: Puerto Ponce de León: Man of Myth Rican Cuisine . .39 & Legend . .23 Strange Fruit . .41 3 The Lay of the Land: Beaches, 6 Recommended Reading . .44 Mountains, the Rainforest, Off-Island Islands & More . .34 3 Planning Your Trip to Puerto Rico 45 1 Visitor Information . .45 6 Travel Insurance . .62 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . .45 7 Health & Safety . .63 3 Money . .47 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .65 What Things Cost in Puerto Rico . .48 9 Getting There & Getting Around . .67 4 When to Go . .49 10 Package Deals & Group Tours . .70 COPYRIGHTEDPuerto Rico Calendar of Events . .51 MATERIALGreat Discounts through the 5 The Active Vacation Planner . .54 LeLoLai VIP Program . .71 Take Me Out to the Beisbol 11 For the Cruise-Ship Traveler . .72 Game . .57 12 Tips on Accommodations . .74 02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 4 Suggested Puerto Rico Itineraries 78 1 The Regions in Brief . .78 4 Puerto Rico for Families . .91 2 Puerto Rico in 1 Week . .83 5 Driving Tour: La Ruta Panorámica 3 Puerto Rico in 2 Weeks . .88 in 2 Days . .93 5 Getting to Know San Juan 96 1 Orientation . .96 Art on Wheels: Painted Taxis . .103 Neighborhoods in Brief . .100 Fast Facts: San Juan . .105 2 Getting Around . .102 6 Where to Stay in San Juan 108 1 Old San Juan . .109 4 Miramar . .121 Room with a Local’s View: 5 Santurce & Ocean Park . .122 Apartment Rentals . .113 6 Isla Verde . .124 2 Puerta de Tierra . .114 Family-Friendly 3 Condado . .116 Accommodations . .127 7 Where to Dine in San Juan 130 1 Best Bets . .131 6 Santurce & Ocean Park . .149 2 Old San Juan . .133 7 Near Ocean Park . .152 An Authentic Criolla Restaurant . .138 8 Isla Verde . .152 3 Puerta de Tierra . .142 Two Family-Friendly Restaurants . .154 4 Condado . .144 9 Near Isla Verde . .157 5 Miramar . .148 8 Exploring San Juan 158 1 Seeing the Sights . .158 3 Shopping . .179 The Best Places to See Puerto Grotesque Masks . .182 Rican Art . .168 Shopping for Santos . .185 The Cathedral of Rum . .171 4 San Juan After Dark . .188 2 Diving, Fishing, Tennis & The Birth of the Piña Colada . .191 Other Outdoor Pursuits . .172 Barhopping . .194 La Criolla Chic . .176 9 Near San Juan 197 1 El Yunque . .198 3 Dorado . .205 2 Luquillo Beach . .201 World-Class Golf at the Former Hyatt Dorado . .207 02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page v CONTENTS v 4 Arecibo & Camuy . .209 6 Central Mountains . .212 5 Karst Country . .211 Life After Death: Taíno Burial & Ceremonial Sites . .213 10 Ponce & the Southwest 216 1 Ponce . .216 3 San Germán . .239 Walking Tour: Ponce . .221 4 Coamo . .241 2 The Southwest Coast . .229 5 The Southern Mountains . .242 Puerto Rico’s Secret Beaches . .234 11 Mayagüez & the Northwest 245 1 Mayagüez . .245 2 Rincón . .252 Mona Island: The Galápagos 3 Aguadilla & the Northwest . .260 of Puerto Rico . .251 4 The Western Mountains . .264 12 Eastern Puerto Rico 267 1 Fajardo . .267 Top Caribbean Spa: The Golden To the Lighthouse: Exploring Door . .272 Las Cabezas de San Juan 2 Palmas del Mar . .273 Nature Reserve . .268 3 The Southeast . .276 13 Vieques & Culebra 278 1 Vieques . .278 2 Culebra . .291 Appendix: Fast Facts, Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 296 1 Fast Facts: Puerto Rico . .296 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites . .299 Index 303 General Index . .303 Restaurant Index . .311 Accommodations Index . .310 02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page vi List of Maps Puerto Rico 80 Old San Juan Attractions 159 Suggested Puerto Rico Itineraries 86 San Juan Attractions 162 San Juan Orientation 98 Attractions Near San Juan 199 Old San Juan Accommodations & Walking Tour: Ponce 222 Dining 111 Mayagüez 247 Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado Western Puerto Rico & the & Ocean Park Accommodations Northwest Coast 253 & Dining 115 Eastern Puerto Rico 269 Isla Verde Accommodations & Dining 125 Vieques & Culebra 279.