Southern Living
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TRAVEL & CULTURE SOUTHEAST EDITION FLORIDA Aviles Street ST. AUGUSTINE This tucked-away brick lane is believed to be the oldest street in America. Beneath the surface of Aviles are remnants of a roadway dating all the way back to the early 1600s. It calls for strolling, with an occasional peek inside its collection of shops and galleries. Duval Street KEY WEST This might be the only strip of pavement in the nation to rival Bourbon Street for its endless party atmosphere. Even so, there’s something calmer and gentler about Duval, lined with historic You can feel the past meet the future architecture and palm trees and packed to the gills with on these thriving historic avenues restaurants, bars, museums, BY VALERIE FRASER LUESSE | TYPOGRAPHY BY SIMON WALKER shops, and tourist attrac- tions. All lead to the fabled sunsets at Mallory Square on the Gulf of Mexico. ALABAMA a clear view of Alabama’s tourists who flocked to its statehouse, then a bastion bathhouses to “take the GEORGIA of segregation. The spot waters,” which came from Dexter Avenue where Rosa Parks waited the area’s naturally heated MONTGOMERY for her bus is here, too, and thermal springs. Most of the Auburn Avenue What strikes you the most so much more. eight remaining bathhouses, ATLANTA about Alabama’s capital now part of Hot Springs The heart of Atlanta’s Sweet city, especially in light of the National Park, were built in Auburn neighborhood, this Civil Rights Movement, is ARKANSAS the early 1900s. Some no urban thoroughfare east proximity. While greeting longer operate as spas, but of downtown has been a his congregation on the steps Quapaw and Buckstaff still center of Black culture and of what’s now called Dexter Central Avenue do. Come and experience commerce since the early Avenue King Memorial HOT SPRINGS the waters that drew Native 1900s. Among the entrepre- Baptist Church, Dr. Martin Back in the day, Central Americans here long before neurs here was Atlanta Life Luther King Jr. would’ve had Avenue was hopping with Bathhouse Row existed. Insurance Company founder NC2 NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM SOME LOCATIONS MAY BE CLOSED DUE TO COVID-19. SOUTHEAST EDITION Alonzo Herndon, who became Atlanta’s first Black millionaire. Dr. Martin Luther Historic Charm King Jr. was born here, and Vintage storefronts the historic churches that add to the appeal of Fayetteville Street. line Auburn Avenue include Ebenezer Baptist, where Martin Luther King Sr. was pastor. His famous son copastored the church for eight years, from 1960 until his death. KENTUCKY St. James and Belgravia Courts LOUISVILLE Located on the site of the Southern Exposition of Art, Industry, and Agriculture, held in the late 19th century, this area is an outstanding early example of a planned urban community. St. James and Belgravia Courts are also home to an incredible collection of well-preserved Victorian architecture. LOUISIANA OPEN FOR BUSINESS Bourbon Street NEW ORLEANS Fayetteville Street One of the South’s—and RALEIGH, NORTH CAROLINA the world’s—most famous streets, the Big Easy’s bawdy ALEIGH’S MAIN DRAG was one of four Historic District, stretching from the North and bodacious boulevard is primary streets plotted by state senator Carolina State Capitol to the Duke Energy responsible for countless and surveyor William Christmas when Center for the Performing Arts, has been “did that really happen?” he drew up the town plan in 1792. Then thriving. Locals and visitors flock here for almost 200 years later, Fayetteville dining and entertainment. Much of Fayette- moments. But it’s also the R Street was closed to car traffic so it could ville Street’s historic architecture has been cradle of New Orleans jazz become a pedestrian mall. Since reopening preserved, giving it authentic character as and an enduring hotbed of to drivers in 2006, the Fayetteville Street well as plenty to see and do. live music and Creole food. One of the oldest streets in SHUTTERSTOCK NC4 NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM SOUTHEAST EDITION RETAIL THERAPY Shop Like a Local Browse boutiques Broughton along Broughton Street Street in Savannah. SAVANNAH, GEORGIA OUNDED IN 1733, Savannah was the first city in Georgia and is called the first planned city in America. As shopping streets F go, it doesn’t get much better than Broughton in Savannah’s historic district (though locals will tell you one of the must-stops here is actually an ice-cream parlor, Leopold’s, which originally opened in 1919). Roam The Paris Market and Brocante for finds from around the world, or shop for specialty wares at Spartina 449, along with such other Broughton haunts as 24e Design Co. and Savannah Bee Company. the famed French Quarter, guitar) but also to enjoy the was also an important until it had to face antitrust Bourbon is named for a area’s shops and eateries. warehouse district for St. laws, and these structures French royal family, not the Tupelo is a testament to Louis. Today, the cobble- were a symbol of Durham’s spirit that fuels so much what determined locals can stone streets and historic dominant position in that of its revelry. The street’s do. Innovation, mixed use, architecture add to its industry. Constructed multimillion-dollar, two- and repurposing have given appeal as a dining and specifically for loading, year renovation, stretching this Mississippi city renewed entertainment district. unloading, and ventilating from Canal to Dumaine, was energy and appeal. Don’t tobacco leaves for cigarette completed in 2019. miss Reed’s department production, the warehouses store, operating in Tupelo NORTH CAROLINA were reimagined as shops since 1905. and restaurants in 1981 and MISSISSIPPI underwent a more recent Brightleaf Square renovation in 2004. DURHAM MISSOURI Main Street These two parallel rows of TUPELO warehouses built at the turn SOUTH CAROLINA Elvis’ hometown turned its Laclede’s Landing of the 20th century have Main Street into a walkable ST. LOUIS evolved into a very popular and welcoming thorough- Settled in 1764, Laclede’s shopping and dining district. East Bay Street fare, making it easy not only Landing was a riverfront The warehouses were CHARLESTON to connect the dots of E’s village with a location that owned by the American The stretch of East Bay that’s early years (including the helped it quickly grow into Tobacco Company, which near the Battery, nicknamed hardware store where his a thriving, bustling hub for controlled almost all of the “Rainbow Row,” is lined with mama bought him his first industry and shipping. It world’s cigarette business brightly colored historic CAPONETTO ROBBIE NC6 NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM SOUTHEAST EDITION homes. These structures TENNESSEE in the seventies, honky-tonk Sixth Street hosts a trio were built for merchants culture eventually brought of distinct entertainment serving the wharves and it back. Today, sprawling districts. There’s the original docks, with stores on the Broadway new joints, along with such one that’s between Congress NASHVILLE ground floor and owners’ venerable ones as Tootsies Avenue and I-35, sometimes residences above. After the Music City’s main artery Orchid Lounge and Skull’s called Dirty Sixth. It’s where Civil War, the area deterio- stretches from First Avenue Rainbow Room, lure ’em in you’ll find Antone’s, a blues rated and didn’t begin its at the riverfront all the way for live music, cold brews, and R&B venue where B.B. recovery until the 1920s and to 21st Avenue South, but the and bachelorette parties. King, Stevie Ray Vaughan, 1930s, when preservation- several blocks of the “Lower and even Ray Charles once minded locals began buying Broad” district are honky- performed. Eclectic West clusters of buildings and tonk central. One of the city’s TEXAS Sixth is between Congress either renovating them or original roadways, it was and the MoPac Expressway, selling them to people who first known as Broad Street. drawing both locals and would. After Judge Lionel Country music star Jimmie Sixth Street visitors to Star Bar and other Legge and his wife, Dorothy, Rodgers started performing AUSTIN watering holes. Laid-back painted their section of here in the early thirties, and Waylon and Willie and East Sixth—the area east homes pastel pink, others other artists followed suit. the boys created a whole of I-35—is home to a nice followed suit, creating one Back then, Lower Broad was new brand of country collection of cozy neighbor- of the city’s most photo- rough and gritty but lively. music, playing now famous hood bars and welcoming graphed neighborhoods. Although it fell into a slump venues in Austin. Today, outdoor venues. BLUESY BOULEVARD It’s Got Rhythm Beale is one of those streets you hear and Beale Street feel, not just see. MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE HIS BLUES-SOAKED SWATH of river- town pavement dates back to 1841. Long a hub for the Black commu- nity, with local grocers, clothing T stores, and funeral parlors, Beale got a big boost from one particularly shrewd entrepreneur and developer, Robert Reed Church Sr. In the 1870s, when a yellow fever outbreak devalued Memphis property, he bought as much of it as he could on and around Beale Street. His real estate would eventually be home to Robert R. Church Park (a magnet for blues musicians), a state- of-the-art auditorium, and the region’s largest Black-owned bank. Church became the South’s first Black millionaire, and Beale Street became a legend. ART MERIPOL NC8 NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM SOUTHEAST EDITION CUBAN FLAVOR Swiss Avenue DALLAS Calle Ocho Located in Old East Dallas, MIAMI, FLORIDA the Swiss Avenue Historic District was the first area of the city to get this designa- VERYTHING THAT YOU PROBABLY to Miami in the late 1950s, and their tion.