TRAVEL & CULTURE SOUTHEAST EDITION

FLORIDA Aviles Street ST. AUGUSTINE

This tucked-away brick lane is believed to be the oldest street in America. Beneath the surface of Aviles are remnants of a roadway dating all the way back to the early 1600s. It calls for strolling, with an occasional peek inside its collection of shops and galleries. Duval Street KEY WEST

This might be the only strip of pavement in the nation to rival Bourbon Street for its endless party atmosphere. Even so, there’s something calmer and gentler about Duval, lined with historic You can feel the past meet the future architecture and palm trees and packed to the gills with on these thriving historic avenues restaurants, bars, museums, BY VALERIE FRASER LUESSE | TYPOGRAPHY BY SIMON WALKER shops, and tourist attrac- tions. All lead to the fabled sunsets at Mallory Square on the Gulf of Mexico.

ALABAMA a clear view of Alabama’s tourists who flocked to its statehouse, then a bastion bathhouses to “take the GEORGIA of segregation. The spot waters,” which came from Dexter Avenue where Rosa Parks waited the area’s naturally heated MONTGOMERY for her bus is here, too, and thermal springs. Most of the Auburn Avenue What strikes you the most so much more. eight remaining bathhouses, ATLANTA about Alabama’s capital now part of Hot Springs The heart of Atlanta’s Sweet city, especially in light of the National Park, were built in Auburn neighborhood, this Civil Rights Movement, is ARKANSAS the early 1900s. Some no urban thoroughfare east proximity. While greeting longer operate as spas, but of downtown has been a his congregation on the steps Quapaw and Buckstaff still center of Black culture and of what’s now called Dexter Central Avenue do. Come and experience commerce since the early Avenue King Memorial HOT SPRINGS the waters that drew Native 1900s. Among the entrepre- Baptist Church, Dr. Martin Back in the day, Central Americans here long before neurs here was Atlanta Life Luther King Jr. would’ve had Avenue was hopping with Bathhouse Row existed. Insurance Company founder

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NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM SOME LOCATIONS MAY BE CLOSED DUE TO COVID-19. NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM One of the oldest streets in live music and Creole food. and anenduring hotbed of cradle of jazz moments. But it’s alsothe “did that really happen?” responsible for countless and bodacious boulevard is streets, the Big Easy’s bawdy the world’s—most famous One of the South’s—and NEW ORLEANS Bourbon Street LOUISIANA Victorian architecture. collection of well-preserved also home to anincredible and Belgravia Courts are urban community. St. James early example of aplanned this area isanoutstanding held inthe late 19thcentury, Industry, and Agriculture, Southern Exposition of Art, Located on the site of the LOUISVILLE Belgravia Courts St. James and KENTUCKY his death. eight years, from 1960until copastored the church for pastor. His famous son Martin Luther King Sr. was Ebenezer Baptist, where line Auburn Avenue include the historic churches that King Jr. was born here, and millionaire. Dr. Martin Luther became Atlanta’s first Black Alonzo Herndon, who NC4 SOUTHEAST EDITION

R to drivers in2006,the Fayetteville Street become apedestrian mall.Since reopening Street was closed to cartraffic so it could Fayetteville Street. add to theappeal of Vintage storefronts Historic Charm almost 200years later, Fayetteville he drew up the town plan in1792.Then and surveyor William Christmas when primary streets plotted by state senator ALEIGH’S MAIN DRAG was one of four Fayetteville Street RALEIGH, NORTH CAROLINA OPEN FOR BUSINESS well asplenty to seeand do. preserved, giving it authentic character as ville Street’s historic architecture hasbeen dining and entertainment. Much of Fayette- thriving. Locals and visitors flock here for Center for the Performing Arts, hasbeen Carolina State Capitol to the Duke Energy Historic District, stretching from the North

SHUTTERSTOCK SOUTHEAST EDITION

RETAIL THERAPY Shop Like a Local Browse boutiques Broughton along Broughton Street Street in Savannah. SAVANNAH, GEORGIA

OUNDED IN 1733, Savannah was the first city in Georgia and is called the first planned city in America. As shopping streets F go, it doesn’t get much better than Broughton in Savannah’s historic district (though locals will tell you one of the must-stops here is actually an ice-cream parlor, Leopold’s, which originally opened in 1919). Roam The Paris Market and Brocante for finds from around the world, or shop for specialty wares at Spartina 449, along with such other Broughton haunts as 24e Design Co. and Savannah Bee Company.

the famed French Quarter, guitar) but also to enjoy the was also an important until it had to face antitrust Bourbon is named for a area’s shops and eateries. warehouse district for St. laws, and these structures French royal family, not the Tupelo is a testament to Louis. Today, the cobble- were a symbol of Durham’s spirit that fuels so much what determined locals can stone streets and historic dominant position in that of its revelry. The street’s do. Innovation, mixed use, architecture add to its industry. Constructed multimillion-dollar, two- and repurposing have given appeal as a dining and specifically for loading, year renovation, stretching this Mississippi city renewed entertainment district. unloading, and ventilating from Canal to Dumaine, was energy and appeal. Don’t tobacco leaves for cigarette completed in 2019. miss Reed’s department production, the warehouses store, operating in Tupelo NORTH CAROLINA were reimagined as shops since 1905. and restaurants in 1981 and MISSISSIPPI underwent a more recent Brightleaf Square renovation in 2004. DURHAM MISSOURI Main Street These two parallel rows of TUPELO warehouses built at the turn SOUTH CAROLINA Elvis’ hometown turned its Laclede’s Landing of the 20th century have Main Street into a walkable ST. LOUIS evolved into a very popular and welcoming thorough- Settled in 1764, Laclede’s shopping and dining district. East Bay Street fare, making it easy not only Landing was a riverfront The warehouses were CHARLESTON to connect the dots of E’s village with a location that owned by the American The stretch of East Bay that’s early years (including the helped it quickly grow into Tobacco Company, which near the Battery, nicknamed hardware store where his a thriving, bustling hub for controlled almost all of the “Rainbow Row,” is lined with

mama bought him his first industry and shipping. It world’s cigarette business brightly colored historic CAPONETTO ROBBIE

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NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM graphed neighborhoods. of the city’s most photo - followed suit, creating one homes pastel pink, others painted their section of Legge and hiswife, Dorothy, would. After Judge Lionel selling them to people who either renovating them or clusters of buildings and minded locals began buying 1930s, when preservation- recovery until the 1920sand rated and didn’t beginits Civil War, the area deterio- residences above. After the ground floor and owners’ docks, with stores on the serving the wharves and were built for merchants homes. These structures NC8 feel, notjust see. streets you hear and Beale isoneof those It’s GotRhythm SOUTHEAST EDITION

Although it fell into a slump Although it fell into aslump rough and gritty but lively. Back then, Lower Broad was other artists followed suit. here inthe early thirties, and Rodgers started performing Country music starJimmie first known as Broad Street. original roadways, it was central. One oftonk the city’s Broad” district are honky- several blocks of the “Lower to 21stAvenue South, but the at the riverfront allthe way stretches from First Avenue Music City’s mainartery NASHVILLE Broadway TENNESSEE Sixth Street TEXAS and bachelorette parties. for live music, cold brews, Rainbow Room, lure ’em in Orchid Lounge and Skull’s venerable ones asTootsies new joints, along with such it back. Today, sprawling culture eventually brought in the seventies, honky-tonk venues inAustin. Today, music, playing now famous new brand of country the boys created awhole Waylon and Willie and AUSTIN

and became alegend. became the South’s first Black millionaire, largest Black-owned bank.Church of-the-art auditorium, and the region’s magnet for blues musicians), astate- be home to Robert R.Church Park (a Street. His real estate would eventually of it ashe could on and around Beale much as Memphis property, bought he when yellow a fever outbreak devalued Robert Reed Church Sr. In the 1870s, shrewd entrepreneur and developer, got abig boostfrom one particularly T

stores, and funeral parlors, Beale nity, with local grocers, clothing Long ahub for the Black commu town pavement dates backto 1841. HIS BLUES-SOAKED SWATH Beale Street MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE BLUESY BOULEVARD outdoor venues.outdoor hood bars and welcoming collection neighbor cozy of of I-35—is home to anice East Sixth—the area east watering holes. Laid-back visitors to Star Bar and other drawing both locals and and the MoPac Expressway, Sixth isbetween Congress performed. Eclectic West and even Ray Charles once King, Stevie Ray Vaughan, and R&B venue where B.B. you’ll find Antone’s, a blues called Dirty Sixth. It’s where Avenue and I-35, sometimes one that’s between Congress districts. There’s the original of distinct entertainment Sixth Street hosts atrio of river-

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ART MERIPOL E fighting begandriving Cuban families Little Havana. Political turmoil and this fabled street that runsthrough NOVEMBER 2020 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM Miami culture. and experience Stroll CalleOcho, Little Havana NC10 dominoes—can allbefound on world-famous cigars, and even flavorful food, wonderful music, associate with Cuban life—the VERYTHING THAT YOU

SOUTHEAST EDITION

PROBABLY Calle Ocho MIAMI, FLORIDA CUBAN FLAVOR

with subtitles inEnglish. showing Spanish-languagemovies helped immigrants learn English by The 1926Tower Theater Miami once is partof the fabric of Calle Ocho. memorial to Cuban freedom fighters diaspora continued for decades. A to Miami inthe late 1950s,and their

CEDRIC ANGELES opened inBristol in2014. with the Smithsonian, Music Museum, affiliated The Birthplace of Country the world to its first stars. genre but alsointroduced only commercialized the Music. Peer’s sessions not The First Family of Country Carter Family, revered as Rodgers and the original acts recorded were Jimmie 5 of 1927. Among the 19 Peer from July 25to August sessions held there by Ralph series of historic recording in 1998.The reason? A designated by Congress the city (in both states) was Country Music” props, as Both share “Birthplace of other isBristol, Virginia. is Bristol, Tennessee; the Bristol. One side of the road the middle of State Street in line would runsmackdown jointly agreed that their state Virginia and Tennessee BRISTOL State Street VIRGINIA borhood1905. in created thisstylish neigh- Developer Robert S.Munger Greek Revival to Craftsman. of architectural styles, from mansions inawide range tion. It’s atreasure trove of the city to get thisdesigna - District was the first area of the Swiss Avenue Historic Located inOld East Dallas, DALLAS Swiss Avenue NOVEMBER 2020 NC11

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