—

NARRA SPORT

CLAEENCE RHODE January-April 1963

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WXLDLJDPE M^KAOEMEiSTs Mr. Banko Mr, Stiles

RE^DURCS MANAQEMEHT; Dr. Morley Mr. Stollberg

Mr 1 L imA)

OPERATIONS % Mr, Huenecke Mr, Regan

HJBLIC USE; Mr. Mr0 Monson QU^

ADMINISTRATIVE SERVICES; Miss Ba/am REFUGE NARRATIVE REPORT

January 1 to April 30, 1963

CLARENCE RHODE NATIONAL V/ILDLIFE RANGE

Bethel, Alaska

Including Notes on Nunivak Island National Wildlife Refuge

Number 1

Staff: James G. King, Refuge Manager

DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife Fish and Wildlife Service Bethel, Alaska TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page MAPS A. Wildlife Refuges in Alaska Front of Report B, Outer Yukon Delta Showing Refuges With Public Land Orders 2213 and 2253 On The Back Front of Report INTRODUCTORY REMARKS CONCERNING THE HISTORY AND PEOPLE OF THE YUKON DELTA AREA 1 I. GENERAL A, Weather Conditions 8 B, Habitat Conditions 8 II. WILDLIFE A. Migratory Birds 8 B. Upland Birds 11 C. Big Game 11 D. Fur Animals and Rodents 16 E. Hawks, Owls and Ravens 16 F. Other Birds 16 G. Fish 16 I, Diseases 17 III. REFUGE DEVELOPMENT AND MAINTENANCE

A. Physical Development of Refuge Headquarters 1? B, Specimens Collected 18 IV. RESOURCE MANAGEMENT 0. Fur Harvest 18 F. Other Uses 18 VI. PUBLIC RELATIONS

B, Refuge Visitors 18 C. Refuge Participation 19 F. Safety 19 VII. OTHER ITEMS

A. Illegal Waterfowl Harvest 20 B, A Program for Conservation Education 21 PARTIAL LIST OF SOURCE MATERIAL Back of Report PHOTOGRAPHS Back of Report c NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGES IN ALASKA

REGION 6

HAZY IS.*4?!

BOGOSLOF FORf

ALEUTIAN IS. Opportunities are available for brown bear photography through the use" of aerial transportation to the interior of the island. Guiding service for hunting and photography, available in and around Kodiak, is required for non-residents. Headquarters in Kodiak. Mailing address: Refuge Manager, Box 825, Kodiak.

Nunivak National Wildlife Refuge. This refuge, a tundra-covered island of volcanic origin, includes 1,109,^00 acres in the Bering Sea 150 miles west of Bethel. It is the home of the only muskox herd in the United States. The refuge, established in 1929> serves as a sanctuary for the development of this herd to furnish animals for restocking former muskox ranges in Alaska. Transported from Greenland in 1930> "the herd made slow gains for many years. Recently, however, numbers have increased rapidly to the point where it is possible to provide animals for restocking. A large reindeer herd, under management of the Bureau of Indian Affairs, shares the range. Coastal lagoons on the south side of the island are utilized as resting and feeding areas by brant and various subspecies of Canada geese during migra­ tion. Vast seabird rookeries are on the sea cliffs of the western coast of the island. The Eskimo village of Mekoryuk is served by regular air transportation. Administered by the Refuge Manager, Box 500» Kenai.

St. Lazaria National Wildlife Refuge. This island refuge comprising 65 acres is at the entrance of Sitka Sound, approximately 12 miles from Sitka. Estab­ lished in 1909> it includes seabird rookeries. Closed to hunting and fishing. For further information, write to: Regional Director, Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife, Box 2021, Juneau, Alaska.

Semidi National Wildlife Refuge. The principal islands in this refuge comprise 6,^00 acres. The group is in the North Pacific approximately 100 miles off the southwest end of Kodiak Island. The refuge supports large seabird rookeries including colonies of puffins, auklets, petrels, rnurres, and kittiwakes, together with an enormous colony of fulmars. A large sea lion rookery is on the south end of the group. With precipitous shorelines and few sheltered beaches, the islands are seldom visited by vessels. Administered by the Refuge Manager, Cold Bay.

Simeonof National Wildlife Refuge. Simeonof Island, one of the Shumagin group south of the Alaska Peninsula, was established in 195^ as a focal point for protection of the growing sea otter populations in the Shumagin Islands. The refuge includes 10,4-00 acres of land and water, and the boundary extends 1 mile from shore to include shoal waters and rocks used as habitat by the bulk of the present Shumagin sea otter population. The island proper is utilized for grazing under a lease issued by the Bureau of Land Management. Although relatively remote, those interested in the study and observation of sea otters can reach the area via chartered vessel or aircraft. Administered by the Refuge Manager, Cold Bay.

Tuxedni National Wildlife Refuge. Established in 1909 at the entrance to Tuxedni Harbor on the west side of Cook Inlet, this island refuge includes 6,4-00 acres. Its principal physical feature is Chisik Island, a precipitous rock mass rising to approximately 2,600 feet. The area supports a vast black-legged kittiwake colony extending about 2 miles, together with asso­ ciated colonial nesting sea-fowl. Access to the area is by vessel or chartered aircraft. Administered by the Refuge Manager, Box 500, Kenai.

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SCALE 1 : 1 584 OOO 1 INCH = 25 MILES the Secretary of the Interior prescribed the southwest bay of Baird Inlet; thence east­ erly, northerly, easterly and southerly along Title 43-PUBLIC LANDS: and issued pursuant thereto: the south shore of Baird Inlet 35 miles to the AREA I mouth of a small stream "D", near latitude 60a33V2' N., longitude 163''43' W., at the INTERIOR Beginning on the shore of Bering Sea at south end of the east bay of Baird Inlet; Chapter I—Bureau of Land Manage­ the line of mean high tide and at the south side of the entrance to Hooper Bay near thence southwesterly up the left bank of the ment, Department of the Interior latitude 61'31' N., longitude 166°12' W., last aforesaid small stream "D" four miles to the head thereof; thence south 10° E., 4^ [Public Land Order 2253] from Greenwich; thence southeasterly with the line of mean high tide on the south side miles to the head of a stream "E" draining [Fairbanks 012151] of the entrance to Hooper Bay and along the to the south, near latitude 60°28' N., longi­ south side of said Bay, 16 miles to the mouth tude 163°46' W.; thence southerly dov/n the ALASKA of Askinuk River (Kleoklevuk River) near right bank of the last aforesaid stream "E" latitude 61026' N.. longitude 165048' W.; four miles to the mouth thereof in the north Renaming of the Kuskokwim National thence easterly up the left bank of said river shore of Dall Lake; thence westerly, south­ Wildlife Range 22 miles to its source at the Kashunuk River erly, easterly and southerly around the west near latitude 61°24' N., longitude 165"26' W.; shore of Dall Lake 75 miles to the most It is ordered that the name of the thence easterly up the left bank of Kashu­ southerly point of said lake near latitude Kuskokwim National Wildlife Range be nuk River, 12 miies to its junction with a eO'CSVa' N., longitude 163° 47' W.; thence south 30° W., iy miles to the head of the changed to the Clarence Rhode National channel "A" flowing to the south, near lati­ 2 Wildlife Range. tude 61°23' N.. longitude 165°11' W.; thence Kuguklik River; thence southwesterly with southerly down the right bank of the last the right bank of the aforesaid Kuguklik This wildlife range was established by aforesaid channel "A" lya miles to a point River 19 miles to the mouth thereof at the Secretarial order of December 6, 1960 near latitude 61*21' N., longitude 165<,10' line of mean high tide of Bering Sea, near (25 F.R. 12597, Public Land Order 2213) W., about one-half mile south of the mouth latitude 59059' N., longitude 164007' W.; which contains a detailed description of of an unnamed stream coming into said thence northwesterly with the line of mean the area involved. channel on the left bank side; thence due high tide 20 miles to the place of beginning, east approximately 38.6 miles to the volcanic containing approximately 1,054 square miles This order is effective upon signature cone in the Ingakslugwat Hills near latitude of lands and waters, but excluding lands of this order. 61 ^l' N., longitude 164o00' W.; thence due beneath navigable waters as defined in sec­ FRED A. SEATON, south approximately 10 miles to the north tion 2 of the Submerged Lands Act of 1953 Secretary of the Interior. shore of a lake "B"; thence southerly around (67 Stat. 29; 43 U.S.C. 1301). the easterly side of the last aforesaid lake JANTTARY 16, 1961. "B" one mile to a point on the southeast side of said lake "B"; thence south 63° east four The descriptions above are based on (P.R. Doc. 61-555; Piled, Jan. 23. 1961; miles to a point near latitude 61°101/2' N., Alaska Reconnaissance Topographic 8:46 a.m.] longitude 163"56' W., on the northwest shore Maps designated Baird Inlet, Hooper of Aropuk Lake opposite the center of an Bay. Marshall and Nunivak Island, Edi­ Island; thence southerly with the western tions of 1951. shore of the said lake and a chain of lakes This order shall not be construed to 45 miles to a point of land near latitude o 1 abrogate or impair any legal or aborigi­ | Public Land Order 2213] 60 50 /2' N., longitude 163 "S?' W., on the north side of Baird Inlet; thence westerly nal claim of right of the natives to use [Fairbanks 012151] along the north side of Baird Inlet 50 miles to the lands, if any. and they may hunt, TI point of land near latitude 60''54' N., lon­ fish, and trap in accordance with appli­ ALASKA gitude 165°02' W., at the mouth of Baird cable law, and carry on any other lawful Establishing the Kuskokwim National Inlet and at the line of mean high tide on activities. the shore of Bering Sea; thence northwest­ FRED A. SEATON, Wildlife Range erly at the line of mean high tide of Bering Sea eight miles to the point of a headland Secretary of the Interior. By virtue of the authority vested in near latitude 60058' N., longitude 165012' W., the President and pursuant to Executive at the south side of Hazen Bay; thence north DECEMBER 6,1960. Order No. 10355 of May 26. 1952, it is 38° W., eight miles across the mouth of [F.R. Doc. 60-11518; Piled, Dec, 8. 1960; ordered as follows: Hazen Bay to the point of a headland at the 8:53 a.m.] Subject to valid existing rights, the fol­ west side of Hazen Bay; thence northwest­ erly with the line of mean high tide of Bering lowing-described public lands in Alaska Sea 50 miles to the place of beginning, con­ are hereby withdrawn from all forms of taining approximately 1,870 square miles of appropriation under the public land laws, lands and waters, but excluding lands be­ except the mining and the mineral leas­ neath navigable waters as defined in section ing laws, and disposals of materials un­ 2 of the Submerged Lands Act of 1953 (67 der the act of July 31,1947 (61 Stat. 681; Stat. 29; 43 U.S.C. 1301). 30 U.S.C. 601-604) as amended, and re­ served for use of the Department of the AREA II Interior as a refuge, breeding ground and Beginning on the shore of Bering Sea at the management area for all forms of wild­ line of mean high tide and on the north side life, to be known as the Kuskokwim Na­ of the mouth of Kinia River, near latitude tional Wildlife Range: Provided, That eCll' N., longitude 164o30' W.; thence north­ the reservation made by this order shall westerly with the line of mean high tide of Bering Sea 8y miles to the headland at the not prohibit the hunting or trapping of 2 game animals and game birds or the mouth of a stream "C" separating Nelson Is­ land from the mainland; thence northeasterly trapping of fur animals in accordance up the left bank of the last aforesaid stream with the provisions of applicable law and "C" 46 miles to a point near latitude 60o39' as may be permitted by regulations of N., longitude 164° 12' W., at the south end of CLARENCE RHODE NATIONAL V/ILDLIFE RANGE

Including Notes on Nunivak Island National Wildlife Refuge

NARRATIVE REPORT

January 1 to April 30, 1963

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS CONCERNING THE HISTORY AND PEOPLE

OF THE YUKON DELTA AREA

The vast interior of Alaska is drained by the State's two largest rivers, the Yukon and the Kuskokwim which are more or less parallel and flow in a generally southwesterly direction to empty into the Bering Sea. At Aniak 150 miles from the coast on the Kuskokwim the Yukon is only 30 miles to the north. From this closest point the Yukon swings north­ westerly and the mouths of the two rivers are some 200 miles apart. The triangle of land thus bounded by the Yukon the Kuskokwim and the Bering Sea is known as the Yukon Delta. This Delta is an undulating prairie on the east, very flat on the west, and characterized by countless water areas. In three areas of the Delta former volcanic activity is evident in the form of small ranges of hills and likewise Nelson Island on the western edge of the Delta and Nunivak Island 20 miles off shore are volcanic in origin. Otherwise the Delta is a vast alluvial plain,

Aniak at the eastern apex of the Delta enjoys a climate influenced more by the interior than the coast and is on the edge of the interior forests. Moving west from Aniak the trees quickly are left behind and the rest of the Delta area is covered by tundra and enjoys short, cool, damp summers and long cold winters with more or less steady winds year round.

The 1962 population of the Delta was 8,767 people over 90^ of whom are Eskimos inhabiting 36 tundra villages. The largest village is Bethel with some 1,500 people and most of the white population. Bethel is the trading, transportation, education and health center for the entire area.

The three main factors enabling the Eskimo population to become established and survive here are an abundance of fresh water and anadromous fish, a tremendous summer nesting population of large edible birds and numerous sea mammals along the coast. Three national wildlife refuges have been established in this area as follows: Nunivak National Wildlife Refuge, This refuge, a tundra-covered island of volcanic origin, includes 1,109,400 acres in the Bering Sea 150 miles west of Bethel, It is the home of the only muskox herd in the United States, The refuge, established in 1929, serves as a sanctuary for the development of this herd to furnish animals for restocking former muskox ranges in Alaska. Transported from Greenland in 1930, the herd made slow gain^s for many years. Recently, however, numbers have increased rapidly to tne point where it is possible to provide animals for restocking. A large reindeer herd, under management of the Bureau of Indian Affairs, shares the range. Coastal lagoons on the south side of the island are utilized as resting and feeding areas by brant and various subspecies of Canada geese during migration. Vast seabird rookeries are on the sea cliffs of the western coast of the island. The Eskimo village of Mekoryuk is served by regular air transportation.

Hazen Bay National Wildlife Refuge. This refuge includes the islands of Nunivakchak and Krigegaz, north of Nelson Island on the Bering Sea coast, at the northern outlet of Baird Inlet. The area was established in 1937 and comprises 6,800 acres. Consisting of low-lying tundra, it is a con­ centrated nesting area for the black brant and "cackling" goose, finperor geese, oldsquaws, greater scaups, and other waterfowl also nest on the islands. This refuge is adjacent to and similar in function to the Clarence Rhode National Wildlife Range,

Clarence Rhode National Wildlife Range. This waterfowl nesting area was established in December I960. It includes 1,800,000 acres of low-lying tundra on the coast of the Bering Sea, and extends from Hooper Bay to Kipnuk, excluding Nelson Island. It is the primary nesting area for the "cackling" goose and the major nesting grounds for the black brant in the United States. A high proportion of Alaska's emperor geese breed here. Other breeding waterfowl include the "lesser" Canada and white-fronted goose, whistling swan, eider, pintail, greater scaup, common scoter, old­ squaw, and several others. Sandhill cranes and numerous shorebirds also nest on the range. Several ornithologists of note have found the range a mecca for bird study. Waterfowl hunting is permitted. Headquarters were established at Bethel, Alaska, in January, 1963. Summer field head­ quarters are on the Kashunuk River. This Range was named for Clarence Rhode, longtime Alaska Regional Director for the Fish and lildlife Service who was instrumental in getting the Range established, Rhodes disappeared in an airplane somewhere in Arctic Alaska in 1958 and has never been found.

EXPLORATIONS AND OCCUPANCY OF THE DELTA BY WHITE MEN The coast between the Yukon and Kuskokwim Rivers is composed of wide mud flats and shallows and is lacking in good harbors. There were no great fur, mineral or fish resources to attract the early white adventures, therefore, knowledge of the area and contact between the -whites and Natives has remained fairly limited even until today. A brief chronology of white activity in the area follows and reference is made to what bird study has been done. 1711 Diomsds Islands in Bering Sea were discoverd by the Russian Popoff•

1741 The Alaska mainland was discovered by the Russian Vitus Bering* G, W, Steller of Bering's party made bird notes on his observations from Prince William Sound to the Aleutians. His name was bestowed on Stellers Jay, Stellers Eider and Stellers Sea Lion.

1767 First trip along the Bering Sea Coast of Alaska was made by Lieutenant Synd of the Russian Navy, 177B Captain Cook penetrated Bering Sea and some birds were collected. Some English geographical names were bestowed,

1792 A Russian trading post and church was established at Nushagak near Bristol Bay,

1816 Otto Von Kotzebue outfitted by Count Romanzof of Russia explored in Bering Sea and Chukchi Sea, Romanzofs name has been given to a cape on the Yukon Delta, Adelbert Von Chamisso of this party collected plants and a few birds and his name is given to a sea bird, rookery island in Kotzebue Sound that is now a National Wildlife Refuge,

1B20 The Russians moving overland from Nushagak explored along the Kuskokwim River. 1822 Kramchenka, Etolin and Vasilieff in two Russian ships explored Nunivak Island and the coastline adjacent. The strait between Cape Romanzof and Nunivak Island bears Etolin's name,

1832 Russians moving overland from Nushagak establish a trading post on the Kuskokwim River,

1833 Fort St, Michael was established by the Russians just north of the mouth of the Yukon River. This port was an important stop for Bering Sea and Yukon river expeditions for the next 90 years.

1835 Glasunoff explored the Kuskokwim and Yukon Rivers. 1848 The First whaling expedition entered Bering Sea with such success that 154 whalers were present the following year. Whalers are reputed to have made stops at Nunivak Island occasionally. 1865 Western Union explored the Yukon and other areas with the object of establishing a telegraph line from North America to Asia. William Healy Dall of this project made extensive notes on the fauna and other resources of Alaska. A point near Hooper Bay bears his name.

1867 The U. S. purchased Alaska, The Alaska Commercial Company of San Francisco bought out the Russian-American Company interests including the post at St. Michael. Ports were subsequently operated at Scanmon Bay & Tanunuk. 1874-18B1 A meteorological station at St, Micheal was manned first by Lucien M, Turner succeeded by Edward VJ. Nelson. These two men made exten­ sive bird collections and notes for the vacinity of St. Micheal and NaLson made both summer and winter trips across the Delta studying the people and birds. Nelson provided the first detailed information on the Delta. He visited the area of the present Clarence Rhode Range and his accounts of the bird life stimulated the first interest that eventually resulted in the Range being established. An Island west of the refuge bears Nelson's name. The inlet behind Nelson Island bears the name of S, F, Baird who was Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution at the time and for whom Turner and Nelson collected specimens. Nelson of course went on to become the third Chief of the U, 3, Biological Survey,

1885 Moravian Missionaries established a church near the Eskimo village of Mamtretleramint on the Kuskokwim River, This mission was named Bethel, The cultural center of the Delta area has developed here,

1886 A Catholic church mission was established at Holy Cross on the Yukon. 1924 0. J, Murie, Frank Dufresns, H, Boardman Conover and Herbert Brandt spent the spring and sunimer near Hooper Bay collecting, banding and studying birds resulting in the first extensive bird work in the area since Nelson's trips, 1927 C, G, Harrold spent the summer on Nunivak Island collecting birds. 1929 Nunivak Island Refuge was established for the purpose of experimenting with caribou-reindeer cross breeding and the protection of birds.

1935-36 Thirty one muskoxen were tr msferred from Fairbanks to Nunivak Island.

1937 Hazen Bay National Wildlife Refuge was established, 194Q Ira N, Gabrielson visited Nunivak and Nelson Island making bird observations, 1949 First complete systematic aerial survey of the Yukon Delta to enumerate the breeding population of birds was conducted by Dave Spencer of the Fish and Wildlife Service, 1950-1960 U. S, Fish and Wildlife Service and others conduct waterfowl investigations and aerial surveys on Delta breeding areas, I960 The Clarence Rhode National Wildlife Range was established.

1963 The first Refuge Manager for Clarence Rhode and Nunivak Refuges was assigned to newly constructed headquarters at Bethel, THE ESKIMOS OF THE CLARENCE RHODE RANGE AND ADJACENT AREAS

The earliest observers found Eskimos scattered all over the Delta area. They resided in sod houses often rartly underground. In some places 2 or 3 families would reside together in a single sod house. In other places there would be small villages with several houses. Leadership of the people was usually in the hands of a sort of medicine man who had the power to cure or inflict evil. The medicine man established and enforced the rules and mores of the people in a more or less despotic fashion. In the larger villages there was a centrally located sod house called the Kazga or Kazigi where the men while not hunting spent a good deal of their time. The Kazga served as a workshop and social center and the men would generally sleep together there. The women served meals to the men in the Kazga but spent most of their time in separate homes. The Delta people wore birdskin clothing and sealskin foot gear. Dog teams were used for travel but due to the problem of feed dog numbers were kept at a minimum.

Russian activities largely bypassed the area between the Kuskokwim and Yukon and left the Natives relatively unchanged. It is probable that many of the Natives did acquire metal cooking pots, cutting tools and stoves during the Russian period as the Native was ever quick to take advantage of things that he could use. From about 1890 to 1930 white activity on the Delta increased. A few fur traders penetrated the area for fox and mink skins and from them the Natives acquired firearms and later boat motors and other things that aided them in their hunting and fishing activities. The Catholics from the north and Moravians from the south penetrated the Delta in search of converts. The method of these early missionaries was to learn the language and then with their superior knowledge of the medicines and technology undermine and destroy the prestige of the local medicine man. As the medicine man system had always been somewhat of a competitive thing the early missionaries in effect became the medicine men of the area with the power to make and enforce rules. How enlightened the people actually were by the missionaries is a matter of speculation. However in that the system was normal to them the people accepted the missionaries and even today take church matters very seriously.

Along with the missionaries and fur traders waves of influenza, whooping cough, measles, tuberculosis and other diseases swept the Delta and the Native population was greatly reduced. About 1920 government schools began to be established on the fringes of the Delta. The missionaries had taught a few Natives to speak, read and write English at Bethel and Holy Cross but the first real opportunity along this line came with the government schools. At first progress was very slow as the people were pretty well scattered all over and often could not ^et to schools. Since 1930 schools have been established in 34 comminities on the Delta. Regular airmail service has been inaugurated. An effective health and hygiene program has been set up. Stores usually government sponsored and Native run have been established in each village. Churches and National Guard armories have been built in many of the villages. Cash assistance to Natives in the way of welfare, old age assistance, etc., has become available. The isolated families have pretty well gathered in these villages where they are building better houses and adopting more modern ways. As a result many of the younger people speak some English, The health program is showing spectacular results and in many places the children in school outnumber the adults of a village. It is thouglt that the present population of the Delta (8,76?) is approaching the number present before the early plagues killed so many. At the present rate of increase V they will soon exceed the carrying capacity of the area.

There are two Native villages on the Clarence Rhode Range, Chofornak with a population of 133 and Newktok with 148,people. These villages have been the last places to receive Bureau of Indian Affairs schools in this area. Chefornak has had a white teacher for four or five years and Newktok gets its first white teacher next year. An Eskimo teacher had been present in each location for several years to "prepare" the children somewhat for the time when a professional, non-Eskimo speaking teacher would arrive. In both of these villages naturally very few people can understand English. Mr. Jonathan Jenness a graduate student in Anthropology from Harvard College, who has been working north of the Range informs me that Newktok is the most primitive village in Alaska.

Mekoryuk on Nunivak Island Refuge has a population of 255 people. There have been schools on Nunivak since around 1925 but it is only in the last few years that all the people have gathered in one village and had access to the school. In addition to the three villages on the refuges, there are 10 villages within a 50 mile radius of the Clarence Rhode Range containing a total of about 2,869 people. These villages are all a little ahead of Newktok and Chefornak in the matter of schooling but not much. People from each of these villages frequent parts of the Range at times.

The Eskimos derive their cash income from limited corunercial fisheries on the Yukon and Kuskokwim Rivers. A reindeer meat packing plant at Nunivak, the trapping of mink and to a lesser extent other fur bearers, the production of tourist items such as grass baskets, ivory nicknacks and wooden masks and from employment around schools and other government installations. These industries are not extensive enough to provide a living for the number of people in the area so that subsistence hunting and fishing is very important to most families. It is interesting to note that the Yukon Delta area has not been attract­ ive to the white settlers and adventurers who have poured into other parts of Alaska in search of wealth, adventure and scientific fact. On the other hand, if we may judge by the size of the population, it has been the most attractive part of Alaska to the Eskimos who are more numerous here than in any other area of Alaska of comparable size. Possibly in more subtle ways the thinking of the Eskimo and white are just as divergent,

The foregoing superficial and incomplete account serves mainly to point up the fact that acculturation of the Natives on the Delta has been slow, much slower than in other areas of Alaska; however, the process is accelerating now and in the next few generations the situation will orobably be entirely changed.

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I. GENERAL

A, Weather Conditions The weather data below are from the U. 3. v.eather Bureau at Bethel. Note that the January average temperature this year was higher than the April average. During January the snow all melted and the ground dried up and pussy willows came out. Old timers at Bethel reported they had never seen a midwinter warm spell like this before. Note also the winds are fairly constant. In general the weather on the Range is slightly cooler with slightly higher precip­ itation than Bethel especially in warmer weather.

Precipitation (in.) Temperature (0F) Month Snowfall This Month Normal Max. Min. Av. Normal Av, Jan 3.1 2.35 1.12 48 -32 1976 3.6 Feb. 1.7 .09 2.20 40 -16 11.0 8.2 March 16.9 1.56 1.03 38 -14 15.1 11.6 April 8.7 44 - 9 19.4 26.1 ^Total 30.4 4.5,558 4.93

Wind (MPH) Month Av. Peak Jan 12.4 28 Feb 14.0 31 March 16.C 44 Aoril 12.5 35

B. Habitat Conditions Habitat conditions are apparently normal inspite of the "false spring" in January. II. WILDLIFE

A. Migratory Birds There are no migratory birds resident on the Clarence Rhode Refuge in winter. Due to the mild winter there was open water in Etolin Strait all winter. A flock of about 200 common eiders were seen near Nelson Island on February 19. These eiders are reputed to linger as far north as they can find open water. The first snow bunting was seen at Bethel March 19 and they were common for several weeks after that. By the end of the period there was still no water or bare ground on the Refuge, There were numbers of glaucus gulls and pintails along the open lead just off shore by April 28. The Refuge Manager participated in a survey of the birds on the Alaska Peninsula during April, Special attention was given to emperor geese, A report of this project follows:

Emperor Goose Counts on the Alaska Peninsula March 26 to April 11, 1963 During the period March 26 to April 11, three trips were made between King Salmon and Unimak Island for the purpose of tabulating numbers of emperor geese on the north side of the Alaska Peninsula, Agent Zahn made the first trip on the 27th of March, Refuge Managsrs Jones and Burns joined him for the flights over the Izembek Refuge and Unimak Island, No count was made by Zahn on his return trip to King Salmon.

Refuge Manager King and Zahn made a second trip on April 4 and 5 from King SaLmon to Unimak and covered the same areas on April 10 and 11 on the return trip. Jones and Burns participating each time in the Izembek-Uniinak portions. Flight time for the 4th and 5th was 12.6 hours and for the 10th and 11th 3.1 hours, however, it is felt that all concentrations of geese were covered each trip, Etnperor goose observations are summarir;ed in the following table:

EMPEROR GOOSE OBSERVATIONS

Date 3-27 4-4 4-5 4-10 4-11 Egegik Bay 0 0 6 Ugashik Bay 0 0 100 Cinder River 0 500 4,330 Port Heiden 0 5,820 18.050 Ilnik 0 310 4,300 Port Moller & Nelson Lagoon 0 6,380 10,650 Koffet Bay 0 5,950 8,950 Izembek Ba^y 0 23,800 20,000 Cold Bay 0 775 2,650 Morzhovie Bay 0 35 40 Unimak Island 9 104 •if Subtotals 2 13,010 30.664 64,640 4,436 Total Southbound trips 9 43,674 Total Northbound trip 69,076

* No count made

Owing to the large flocks in some places, up to 7,000 geese, the figures of the table can only be considered as a careful guess, however, all observers agreed they constitute a conservative guess. It was 10

certainly obvious that migration was in progress and that the birds were moving north along the peninsula» The Unimak geese seemed to be still in small flocks on their wintering grounds. As winter persists for a time after this on the Yukon Delta (no open water as of April 25 at Bethel) it might be that there is a time when all emperors could be counted in the bays along the north side of the Alaska Peninsula.

The afternoon of April 6 was spent on the barrier beach of Izembek Bay and during 4 hours time flocks of 10 to 100 emperors were constant­ ly passing in migration along the beach. We estimated that about 2,000 emperors passed during the afternoon. These birds appeared to be going right on past Izembek. A person stationed at the right spot along the beach near Izembek for 3 or 4 weeks might count all the emperor population as it went by.

Weather during the flights was bright and sunny. At King Salmon winter conditions still prevailed except for open water in the Naknek River. At Port Heiden sea ice was no longer visible and river ice was breaking up. From Port Heiden south bird numbers increased sharply and spring conditions prevailed.

Other Observations Bald Eagle — Forty one bald eagles were seen between King SaLmon and Cold Bay on the 4th, On the 5th fifteen more were seen between Cold Bay and Unimak, These were mostly alone occasionally in pairs and were standing on sand dunes and grass banks along the beach apparently watching for what the tide might fetch. No attempt was made at a total eagle count but possibly a third of those along the beach were seen.

Eider — Zahn saw very few eiders on the 26th and 27th, On the later trips king, common and stellers eiders were observed in numbers running to the hundreds of thousands. Most eider were south of Port Heiden,

Swan — Five pairs of swan were seen apparently on nesting territory, 4 on Unimak and 1 at Port Heiden, In addition 42 other swans were seen in small flocks. Black Brant — Brant were seen in Izembek Bay only 4,400 being observed April 5 and 6,300 on the 10th, Other Ducks — Pintails, mallards, old squaw, scaup, goldeneye, bufflehead and red breasted mergansers were observed here and there along the Peninsula but only in small flocks. Other Birds — Sea gulls were cormon south of Port Heiden, Flocks of unidentified shore birds were seen south of Port Moller, Sander- lings were observed on the beach at Izembek, Several hundred cormorants were seen scatte ed south of Port Moller, 11

Eel Grass — The eel grass was beginning to show some green in Izembek Bay and was probably producing some forage already. On the return trip all tidal bays north of Izembek were scanned for eel grass. We could see no evidence that there is any eel grass north of Izembek Refuge on the north side of the peninsula.

Mammals — The ground squirrels were out at Cold Bay and had been out about a week according to Jones. A sow bear with 3 yearling cubs was seen near Cold Bay on the 5th and there were tracks along the beaches of Unimak Island.

B. Upland Birds Willow ptarmigan, a very cyclic bird, have been fairly common this year. They travel in large flocks in winter and seek out the taller willow patches as the snow gets deeper, thus many of them probably leave the Range in the dead of winter. By the end of April they spread out on breeding territories all over the Range, An adequate censusing technique for ptarmigan has not yet been developed.

C, Big Game There are no big game animals on the Clarence Rhode Range except for an occasional stray moose. Years ago there were caribou on the Range and also on Nunivak, There are 355 muskox on Nunivak now and some 12,000 reindeer as a result of recent introductions. Included here is the report of a trip to Nunivak for the purpose of collecting muskoxen for museum specimens.

MUSKOX COLLECTING TRIP MARCH 26 TO APRIL 2, 1963

During the last week of March, 1963, five muskoxen bulls were taken from the Nunivak Island herd to be used in museum mounts. Two bulls were taken for the Denver Museum of Natural History and Mr. Henry Wichers, Curator of Majomals at the Denver Museum participated in the hunting and skin preparation and also took movies of the operation. One bull was collected for the University of New Mexico and Dr, Frank C, Hibben of that institution spent one day at Nunivak taking pictures and arranging for the care of his animal, A bull and cow were scheduled to be taken for the National Museum, however, a young bull was inadvertently taken instead of the cow rnd no cow was collected, James King, Refuge Manager, Bethel; Neil Argy, U. S, Game Management Agent, McGrath and Lee Ellis, Mammal Control Agent, Anchorage, repre­ sented the Service, In addition, Theron Smith, Aircraft Supervisor, hauled gasoline to Mekoryuk in a Grumman Goose. Transportation on the island was by two ski-wheel equipped Cessna ISO's. Two men and a plane from the Alaska Dept. of Fish and Game were unable to participate as originally planned. 12

Weather during the hunting was ideal with clear skies, temperatures below freezing but above zero and moderate winds. Aircraft landing conditions were ideal as there was a smooth heavily crusted snow cover.

A count of 36O muskoxen on the island was obtained prior to hunting.

Sequence of Events On the evening of March 26, King, Ellis, Hibben and Wichers arrived in Mekoryuk via Service aircraft and set up housekeeping at the Bureau of Indian Affairs Reindeer Project buildings. Argy arrived the following morning. As Dr. Hibben could only stay one day it was decided to devote the 27th to reconnaissance and photography. King, Hibben and Wichers spent the afternoon on Cape Mohican where a group of about 20 oxen was approached within 100 feet. A small lighthouse on the Cape afforded cover in case of a charge but none developed. Smith made several trips hauling gas from Bethel to Mekoryuk and Dr. Hibben returned to Bethel with him the last trip apparently very satisfied with the days events.

On the morning of the 28th, Argy and Ellis in one plane and King and Wichers in the other plane flew to the south end of the island thence one plane flew east and the other west and a count of aZ.l muskoxen was obtained.

In the afternoon we flew to the vicinity of Cape Mendenhall and killed one large bull from a herd of about 10 animals and returned to Mekoryuk with the hide and meat.

On the 29th we went to the Cape Corwin area and landed near a group of 20 some animals. Two large bulls were taken from this herd, A Third animal which appeared to be a cow was shot but this turned out to be a small bull. The afternoon was well occupied in preparing and transporting the 3 specimens.

On the 30th Wichers and Ellis stayed in camp and hired 2 Eskimos to help with skinning heads, fleshing hides and boning skeletons. King and Argy in one plane went to Cape Mendenhall and took another slender horned animal. This too turned out to be a bull. It was decided not to attempt to get a cow at this time. There was some conflict in the only available literature as to the appearance of the horns of the cows, A study of cows can be made when they have calves this summer and then next winter one can easily be collected. It took just 3 hours from landing to takeoff to hunt, skin and load this last animal,

March 31 and April 1 were occupied by preparing, salting and packing the specimens. On April 2 the project was terminated and the crew left the island. 13

The Muskoxen Count

The muskoxen are very easy to count this time of year. All the animals were within one mile of the shore and none were observed along the streams or in the interior of the island where they are frequently seen in summer. Perhaps this was due to the crusted snow conditions which rendered feed in the interior virtually unobtain­ able, however, there had been very little sno.j until a week or so previous so perhaps they normally frequent the shore this time of year. While we were on the island the reindeer were still in the process of moving toward the available feed near the shore. The muskoxen were very easy to see and we felt quite certain that none were overlooked. The count took a total of 5 hours flight time. The only difficulty encountered was in counting the larger herds because as soon as they hear the airplane they form a tight group and an exact count is difficult. We observed B herds that exceeded 15 animals and in these cases it was necessary to estimate the number, An effort was made not to exaggerate estimates so that our total count of 360 animals is a minimum count. There might be as many as 10 or 12 more than that. The largest concentration of animals was on the sand dunes near Gape Mendenhall where 156 v/ere counted. They were feeding on the dune grass, Elymus mollis which was readily available through the snow. The second largest concentration was near Cape Mohican where 77 animals were tallied. There are sheer cliffs to the waters edge in this area and there is no obvious reason why the animals should gather here, 0nl3'- 7 animals, all bulls, were seen on the northeast part of the island near Triangle Island from where an attempt to reach Nelson Island would seem most logical. In view of this fact and the fact that our count divulged some 20 animals more than the July, 1962, count it is possible that we are not losing many animals in this direction. One bull however is known to have washed up on Nelson Island in 1962,

Undoubtedly the animals are easier to see this time of year than they are in July and I think winter counts are to be recommended. In the future I believe I would try to count them from about 1,000 feet or more in the air so that the count of each herd could be gain­ ed before they gather in the defensive position. It is probably impossible to get composition counts from the air this time of year except that old bulls are fair3.y easily recognized.

Behavior of the Oxen The mature bulls are very easy to recognize at this time of year as they are a good deal larger than the other animals and their horns are more prominent. In addition many of the large bulls had a mat of old shed wool still clinging to the hair of the hump, whereas, the smaller animals were all very sleek and tidy in appearance. In general 3 types of herds were observed. There were herds 14 composed entirely of mature bulls numbering as high as ?• There were herds of up to 20 animals or more where only one large bull was present and there were herds of up to 20 or more with several large mature bulls present. Evidently there is quite a surplus of mature bulls.

It was discovered on the first day that if a herd is approached from one side leaving a good avenue of escape the herd would gather in the proverbial defensive position until approached within 3 or 4 hundred yards, then they would break and run a distance of 2 or more miles. Our hunting technique was to find a herd near the beach, land one airplane on either side of them and approach them slowly cutting off clear avenues of escape. By this method it was oossible to get within 150 feet of the herd and then discuss the relative merits of each animal and wait until someone had an ideal shot. The animals would stand in a tight group, however, there was considerable shuffling about. The large bulls seemed to take charge of the formation and would keep the smaller animals in place by swinging their heads sideways against the head and shoulders of the smaller ones. When all was in good order the bulls would indulge in snorting and pawing the ground for a time, then they would have to jostle the herd back into formation again. There was no attempt made to charge. We kept herds thus cornered for up to an hour with­ out indication of any other defensive maneuvers. It did seem that the animals would tend to quiet down as time went by.

In order to damage the hide and skeleton as little as possible, all animals were shot in the lungs. After a shot the herd would stand until the victim fell down and we had gathered on one side, then they would break and run, abandoning their dead. It would be possible to shoot as many animals as are desired out of a herd and yet we experi­ enced no difficulty in getting the remainder to leave. For the final animal, two of us were able to hold a herd of 15 oxen on a sand dune with no difficulty.

It was several times noted that when flying over a herd of bulls, 2 or more bulls would square off and butt heads. This activity was not noted when they were approached on the ground.

Our observations that the muskoxen tend to run if possible, do not charge and readily abandon their dead is contrary to popular accounts of muskox behavior. Possibly this could be explained by the fact that the Nunivak muskoxen have no enemes and their defensive behavior is purely instinctive and not supplemented by practical experience. Possibly the popular accounts are over flamboyant. Possibly under other circumstances or at different times of the year the behavior would be different.

Preparing the Specimens The first animal taken, a large bull, was weighed in the field. It was intended to weigh all the animals but inadvertently when weights were taken some parts of four oxen had already been disposed of so no valid weight was possible. The following table shows the one 15

valid weight with the exception of blood loss. This is the animal that went to New Mexico. I think this would be a typical full grown bull.

Animal Parts Pounds Head and Hide Stomachs 140 Other viscera 74 Front leg 43 Front leg 44 Hind leg 42 Hind leg 42 Back 36 Ribs 136 Blood and other fluids ? Total 704 There was virtually no odor about the animals while butchering or later fleshing the skins in a warm room. The glands below the eye had no distinctive smell.

The hides were in excellent prime condition and the loose wool on the hump of the bulls was easily removed. All the animals had a certain amount of back and internal fat and seemed in first rate condition. The stomachs of all animals were well loaded.

Skinning is impeded by the heavy pelage, however, the skin itself is not as thick as the hide of larger game animals such as moose. The only real difficulty is encountered in getting the hide from under the horns and in removing the narrow strip of skin between the boss. There is old matted wool under the horns rendering it very difficult to work the skin loose.

Distribution of Meat and Viscera The meat of the muskoxen was turned over to the Natives and distributed according to a traditional systematic method. It was interesting to note that it was not in much demand. Apparently the stronger meat of seals which are just becoming available at this time of year is more to their liking. We ate some of the meat and found it to be very acceptable and much like beef. The hind quarters however are so small one wonders if muskoxen would ever make a commercially valuable meat animal.

The entire viscera from one small bull and everything but the stomachs from one large bull were packaged up and have been sent to the Arctic Health and Research Center in Anchorage where a check for parasites will be made by Dr. Rausch. 16

Reindeer

The reindeer appeared to be in good shape and we heard of or saw no indication of any winter kill. This has been a very open winter with no snow at all during January and much of February, however, deep wet snow that now has a heavy crust fell a week or two ago. The worst possible condition for reindeer prevailed over much of the island while we were there and if this condition should continue for very long there may yet be some winter kill.

There was no evidence that the reindeer are interested in the dune grass or are in competition with the muskoxen at all for food. There were few reindeer near the coast and none in the dunes.

*• &

Other than determining cows, no difficulty was encountered in collect­ ing these animals. Lee Ellis with his knowledge of the Island and the people of Mekoryuk was a great help. Henry Wichers1'ability at skin preparation was an eye opener even to the Native women and we all learned alot from him.

D« Fur Animals and Rodents The fauna of the Range includes mink, muskrat, otter, white fox, red fox, voles and lemmings. The mink of the Yukon Delta are the finest wild mink in the fur trade of North America. This year the local price of mink was as high as #40.00* Casual reports this year state that the catch was disappointingly low. Weather conditions as well as the population level influence the catch of mink. We have no data on other fur bearers this year. At old Chevak on the Range, voles and lemmings were in abundance and likewise in the Bethel area,

E, Hawks, Owls and Ravens Ravens are common around Bethel all winter probably due to the large human population. They frequent the dumps. There are also wintering ravens in small numbers on the Refuges,

F, Other Birds Redpolls winter in the Bethel area and probably on the Refuges, \Jhich species of redpolls we have has not been established. Thus the common wintering birds of this area are redpolls, ptarmigan and ravens with common eiders off shore usually.

G, Fish Common resident fish of this area include shee fish, white fish, northern pike and black fish. We have very little information on the fish as yet. The Natives do some fishing on the Refuge in winter. 17

I. Diseases

A sample of black fish thought to be diseased was received from Natives at Nunapitchuk just east of the Range and was sent to the University of Alaska for autopsy. No report has been received yet, There was an outbreak of rabies in foxes at Scammon Bay just north of the Range. Dogs in the area were inoculated.

III. REFUGE DEVELOPMENT AND MAINTENANCE A. Physical Development of Refuge Headquarters

Refuge headquarters were built on a 9 acre tract Ig miles west of Bethel during the summer of 1962. The headquarters are 70 miles from the closest part of the Clarence Rhode Range and 150 miles from the closest part of the Nunivak Refuge. Three, 3 bedroom houses were built and an office with a 3 stall garage attached. The site is covered with tundra growth and has no vegetation over a foot high. Under the tundra is 18 inches of organic topsoil material and under that is a fine sand that was probably a wind deposited dune originally. In early September just before freezeup the soil is thawed for a depth of about 2 feet, v/ater wells drilled in Bethel disclose that the frozen sand persists to depths of 400 feet below which it is possible to tap year around water. There are no gravel deposits within 80 or 90 miles of Bethel,

Dry sand fill was placed on top of the undisturbed tundra for a construction site. The buildings are on wooden pads on top of the sand fill and air circulates beneath the houses, the idea being to prevent the tundra from thawing. Water is purchased from a local supplier who delivers it to a 1600 gallon tank in the garage. The water lines and sewer lines between buildings are laid in insulated boxes or utilidoors. The utilidoors are heated by a copper pipe circulating liquid from a heater in the office.

The design of the houses is basically good and every effort was made to use good materials and adequate insulation. But this is an ex­ tremely cold place at times in the winter. The temperature can be exoected to drop to the minus thirties accompanied by winds to 40 mph and stay that way for days. The wind and cold caused a series of minor emergencies this winter which demanded immediate attention, James R, Geerdts was retained as a laborer during the winter and was indispensable in cold weather. The past winter was unusually mild. We have a good deal of work ahead to make the headquarters safe and comfortable enough to withstand a severe winter.

Considerable time this period was devoted to ordering supplies and materials, setting up the office, setting up a workshop in the garage and generally getting things operational at headquarters. 18

We have a cabin and warehouse on the Kashunuk River on the northern portion of the Range whiohhas been used in the past as a bird band­ ing camp. This cabin is old but will be serviceable for a few more years.

We have acquired a surplus aircraft hanger from the National Guard which will require moving and repairing before it can be used. B, Specimens Collected

Five muskoxen (see big game)

IV. RESOURCE MANAGEMENT C. Fur Harvest

No data has been gathered on the fur harvest. F. Other Uses

The Refuges are used by the people -who live on or near them for taking birds, animals and fishes as well as gathering wood, grass and berries and traveling across, camping and as a source of turf for building houses. There is very little non-Native use of these lands.

VI. PUBLIC RELATIONS

B. Refuge Visitors

On the afternoon and evening of March 22 refuge headquarters was visited by a party consisting of Paul Quick, Regional Director BSF&W, Portland, Oregon; Ray Woclford, Acting Regional Director, BSF&W, Juneau, Alaska; Mr. Corbin, Administrative Officer, BSF&W, Washington, D.C.; and Mr. Beatky, Administrative Officer, BSF&W, Portland, Oregon. The weather was not very good but they were able to see the installation. Refuge matters were discussed.

The cabin on the Kashunuk River was visited and the following note left: "I was lust from Chowhoctolik three days. Never eat. all so my dogs. I sleep in here one knight and eat coffee and milk. Thank you Charlie Nick"

Other visitors:

Date Name & Title Organization _uroose 2-2 Captain Mayfield Alaska State Police Visit 19

Date Name & Title Organization Purpose

2-9 Neil Argy, GHA BSFW, McGrath Business 3-24 Henry C. Wichers Denver Museum Nat. Hist. Muskox hunt 3-25 Frank C. Hibben U, of New Mexico it 3-26 Theron Smith BSFW, Anchorage n 3-26 Lee Ellis it it II Jerry Lawhorn it it 4-4 Jonathan Jenness Harvard U. Grad. School Visit 4-29 Mil Zahn, GMA BSFW, Dillingham. Business

C. Refuge Participation

Service films were shown in the following locations to some 1,760 people.

Picture Bethel Mekoryuk Kipnuk Total The Sea Otter 420 420 The Whooping Crane 400 150 120 670 The Bald Eagle 400 150 120 670 1,760 F. Safety There were no safety meetings at Bethel during the period. There were no accidents during the period.

The Refuge Manager attended the Civil Defense "Self Help First Aid Course" given by doctors at the Bethel Hospital.

Fire extinguishers were placed in all buildings during the period and more fire extinguishers have been ordered so that we can have a surplus of such eoupnent.

An escape ladder was permanently attached below the window of the master bedroom in each house as a fire in the utility room could cut occupants in the bedroom area off from the outside doors.

The storm doors catch the wind so violently that a person could get hurt this way. Springs were attached to these doors to try and slow them down. The windows in several of the doors, which break when the door flies open hard, have been reolaced with sheet metal. The ultimate solution to this door problem is to have storm porches on all doors and mount the doors so that they open inward instead of outward. Storm porches are practical from the point of view of conserving heat among other things. Inward opening doors are a con­ siderable advantage should large snowdrifts pile up against the door. It is planned to build storm porches as soon as possible. 20

During the frequent winter storms it would be unthinkable for a woman especially accompanied by small children to try to make it to the nearest neighbor in case of emergency. It would even be a matter of speculation as to whether a strong man could make it on foot at night in bad weather, A fire in the garage in cold weather could result in the loss of the station vehicles and the loss of electric power and heat in the houses. In view of this possibility, it was arranged with the phone company to have the phone line bypass the office-garage and come directly to one of the houses so that power and phone lines would not be knocked out simultaneusly. It is planned to install floor furnaces or some other source of heat in the houses that would function in the event of complete loss of power.

Accident free days 120,

VII. OTHSR ITEMS km Illegal Vlaterfowl Harvest The great summer bird population of the Yukon Delta is an important element of the resources that enabled the primitive Eskimo to survive and prosper in this area. They took birds in the spring with spears, arrows and qilamitaaqs, a device of strings and weights that could be thrown into flocks of flying birds. Later in the season eggs were gathered and flightless waterfowl were herded into nets. There were methods of storing these food products. Skins and feathers were used for clothing, bedding and ceremonial purposes. The return of the birds in spring was heralded with great joy.

As yet the Eskimos have not been curbed with regard to taking water­ fowl even though the situation has changed somewhat from primitive times. Modern rifles and shotguns have replaced the old weapons and larger dog teams, motorized sleds and motorboats enable the hunters to range more widely and fetch home bigger loads. It is logical to assume that the take of birds by use of modern equipment exceeds the former harvest. There has been no tendency toward moderation. The injury of birds that fly on despite being hit by shot is another new element in the picture.

Bird skins are not generally used for clothing or bedding today. In order to purchase guns, ammunition, motors, gasoline and other paraphernalia, cash money must be diverted from welfare payments, trapping income, etc. Fishing is neglected during the spring bird migration although fish are readily available in many places. Any sign of actual hunger in the villages is quickly averted by shipments of surplus food. In view of these changes in the economy it can only be assumed that the taking of birds out of season by unlawful methods by Eskimos is rapidly making the transition from a necessity to a sport, even if a useful sport. Damage to the breeding stock of some species may be of significant proportions. 21

In I960, Game Management Agents of the BSF&W held meetings in most of the villages*of the Delta to inform the people that waterfowl laws would be actively enforced in the future. This news was not well received.

In the spring of 1961 a number of Eskimos were apprehended in the Bethel area. In one case, agents were shot at and in another case were attacked by a mob but these incidents were well handled by the agents involved and the result was a glimmer of real respect. Progress seemed to have been made in the local area. Outside the local area there was an eruption of newspaper publicity, political statements and intervention by uninformed, self appointed "friends" of the Eskimo.

As a result of the furor agents were instructed to inform villages exactly which days they would be present in 1962 thus hampering effective enforcement. Also the local State Representative, an Eskimo, wrote to each village instructing the people to hunt in places where aircraft could not land and that if they saw a plane to run away. The 1962 enforcement effort was ineffective and no progress was made.

In 1963, the Representative again wrote the villages this time on official State stationary bearing the seal of the State of Alaska informing the people it was alright to hunt. A widely circulated statement by one of our U. S. Senators implied that local Federal Agents were erroneously interpreting waterfowl laws on their own without official aoproval. It ouickly became evident that these statements could not be refuted verbally by an agent in the field. The indications were that violence would result if an enforcement program was conducted. Even the most sincere of the Native and white peoole are confused. Enforcement activity was suspended until the people could be properly informed and the situation clarified.

So the people of the Clarence Rhode Range are still enjoying un­ restricted waterfowl hunting. It appears that it may be a long process closing the "season."

B. A Program for Conservation Education Emotion and misinformation are at present blocking efforts to reach a reasonable solution to the waterfowl hunting situation. It has been found futile to discuss the matter with many people in this area for they have their mind made up. It would seem clear that we do have the obligation to provide correct information on waterfowl matters and the challenge of presenting it in an acceptable form.

One approach is to present a good program in the schools. Nearly half of the population of the area is in school. The school children often understand English better and are better informed than their elders. With this in mind a pilot project was set up with Mr. Ed. Rogan, Bureau of Indian Affairs Teacher at Kipnuk on the south 22 s boundry of the Range. This office supplied Mr. Rogan with 30 memberships in the National Audubon Society Junior Program at a cost of 25 cents each. This material includes an instruction book for the teacher and a workbook and a Junior Audubon Membership pin for each child. The workbook covers some basic ornithology in the way of anatomy, feeding, reproduction, migration, conservation and some other things like bird feeders, bird watching and bird houses. Also supplied to Mr. Rogan was a copy of the Field Guide to Western Birds. a chart showing pictures and names of the waterfowl of the area and a stack of forms listing each waterfowl species with a place to fill in the Eskimo name and the date first observed in the spring.

School is not yet out so we do not have the final evaluation on this program yet. Last time I saw Mr. Rogan he informed me that the children had shown immediate enthusiastic response to the Audubon program and had discussed the lessons at length and brought additional pictures and material from home. It was a help to him as a teacher to present something that so enthused the pupils. They had also gone through the Field Guide discussing the birds they know with the same enthusiasm. Mr. Rogan had the children draw pictures of birds for the purpose of sending them to this office. This last venture turned out to be a mistake for when the older people in the village found out that the kids were drawing pictures for the Fish and Wild­ life Service they became incensed. The pictures could not be sent and the children were forced to return their Audubon pins to the teacher. It remains to be seen whether the children will be able to fill in the migration forms for us.

In spite of the unfortunate incident over the drawings the preliminary results of the school program are encouraging. As the Audubon booklet is primarily designed for children living in the population centers outside it is not completely applicable to the conditions in Alaska. It is hoped that we can stimulate enough interest to get a booklet written primarily for Alaskans. Such a book should have more emphasis on geography and the conditions birds face during migration and in the winter. It is also planned that such a book would have a section where the children could record some observations on migration and other things, that could be handed in thus providing valuable orni­ thological information.

An effort was made to locate and acquire a set of lantern slides that could be used to show the conditions and problems that waterfowl face on their wintering grounds and on the long migrations and what man is doing to help them with their problems. Most people of this area, including the white population, have little or no conception of the continent wide waterfowl picture. What we need to give them is a "birdseye view" of the situation. So far we have not been able to acquire pictures with which to do this. 23

Submitted by: j ^^^^ G - James G, King, Refuge Man^ger^

May 20, 1963

Approved by: PARTIAL LIST OF SOURCE MATERIAL RELATING TO THE YUKON DELTA

Anderson, H, D, and Eells, W. C# 1935. Alaska Natives a Survey of Their Sociological and Educational Status, Stanford University Press.

Brandt, H, 1943. Alaska Bird Trails, Adventures of an Expedition by Dog Sled to the Delta of the Yukon River at Hooper Bay. The Bird Research Foundation, Cleveland, Ohio.

*Conover, H. Boardman. 1926, Game Birds of the Hooper Bay Region Alaska, Auk 43pp. •*Dall, ¥, H. 1870, Alaska and Its Resources, Lee and Shepard, Boston. Gabrielson and Lincoln, 1959. The Birds of Alaska, The Stackpole Company, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Lantis, M. I960. Eskimo Childhood and Interpersonal Relationships, Nunivak Biographies and Genealogies. University of Washington Press, Seattle,

Menager. 1962, The Kingdom of the Seal. Layola University Press, Chicago.

*Nelson, E. W. 1887. Report Upon Natural History Collections Made in Alaska Between the Years 1877 and 1881. Edited by Henry Henshaw, No, III Arctic Series Publications, Signal Service, U. S. Army, Washington, D, C.

• 1899. The Eskimo About Bering Strait. IBth Annual Report Bureau of American Ethnology. Schwalbe, A, B, 1951. Dayspring on the Kuskokwim, the Story of Moravian Missions in Alaska, Moravian Press, Bethlehem, Pa.

*Swarth, H, S, 1934. Birds of Nunivak Island, Pacific Coast Avifauna No. 22. *Turner, L, M, 1886, Contributions to the Natural History of Alaska, Signal Service, U, S, Army, Washington, D, C.

*The starred references are not available in Bethel, Research in a good library would doubtless turn up more material on this area. Records of the fur trade, the fisheries and the school system are undoubtedly available someplace. James G, King, Refuge Manager

James R. Geerdts, Laborer Two of the Refuge Residences — April, 1963

The Office From Behind Large Snow Drift The Cabin at Old Chevak on the Clarence Rhode Range

Refuge Headquarters at Bethel During the January Thaw — 1963 Muskoxen in Typical Defensive Position

Skinning an Old Bull Service Aircraft on the Shores of Bering Sea, Muskox Kill at Right,

Frost on a ij inch Pipe That is Part of the Radio Tower. This Frost Brought Down the Antenni Wires.