“Someday This Pain Will Be Useful to You,” season, titled “The New Pope,” launched she hired Zakowska to do the costumes. recently at the Venice Film Festival, with Costume Design Poggioli has fond memories of working Paolo Sorrentino directing all episodes. with Roth, first on “The English Patient,” Poggioli calls Sorrentino “the big excep- then on “The Talented Mr. Ripley” — both tion” to what he sees as an increasing ten- films were shot in Italy — and later on dency on the part of producers, espe- Master Class Celebrates “Cold Mountain.” cially U.S. ones, to overstep into what “When Ann came to Italy, she was a he considers the director’s role when it great teacher to me,” says Poggioli, speak- comes to envisioning costumes. “Paolo U.S.-Italy Bond ing from the ancient Southern Italian town knows exactly what he wants. And when of Matera, where he’s working on Terrence he directs, the project is entirely in his Malick’s “The Last Planet,” a drama that will hands,” he says. Collaboration with David di Donatello reportedly portray passages in the life of It’s likely that many of Poggioli’s U.S. Awards brings event to CUNY Jesus Christ. “Coming from a different cul- colleagues would agree that deferring to ture, she had a whole different vision from the director is best. What’s sure is the cre- By NICK VIVARELLI what I was used to … and she absorbed a ative success of the ongoing collaboration @nickvivarelli lot in Italy as well.” between Italian and American costumers. THE BOND BETWEEN American and Ital- Poggioli, who worked with Fellini on his As Poggioli puts it: “The cultural exchange ian costumers has been a strong and final feature, “The Voice of the Moon,” says — that’s what makes you grow.” long-lasting one that has contributed to that these days what displeases him about some of the best-looking movies ever made, some of the big American productions he says acclaimed Italian costume designer works on is that the costume designer at “I’ve always gone back to Italy as Carlo Poggioli. “We are the country that has times is forced to “interact primarily with a place where I can build costume won the most Oscars, both for set design the producers instead of the director.” elements that I was unable to and costumes, after the Americans,” says That has not been the case on RAI and make in America.” Poggioli, head of Italy’s costume and pro- HBO series “The Young Pope.” Its second Donna Zakowska, costume designer duction designers guild. “The Italian flag stands high.” That bond will be celebrated with a mas- ter class series of panels set for Oct. 31, Nov. 13 and Dec. 5 at the City University of New York, in which Piera Detassis, president of Italy’s David di Donatello Awards — the country’s equivalent of the Oscars — will lead a discussion among Italian designers Poggioli and Milena Canonero (“The Grand Budapest Hotel”) and Americans Ann Roth (“The English Patient”) and Donna Zakow- ska (“The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel”). When she started prepping the HBO miniseries “John Adams,” Zakowska says she developed a strong rapport with Canonero, whose work on Stanley Kubrick’s “Barry Lyndon” set the standard for 18th-century costume re-creation. “She was a bit of a mentor to me,” Zakowska says. Canonero introduced Zakowska to Ital- ian clothes-making shops such as Tirelli Cultural Diversity Costumi and the hat maker Pieroni Work- John Malkovich (above) co-stars shop, which she continued to use when in “The New Pope” working on History’s 2015 “Sons of Liberty” with Silvio Orlando miniseries. “I’ve always gone back to Italy (below, second from right). as a place where I can build costume ele- Costume designer ments that I was unable to make in Amer- Carlo Poggioli lauds the show ica,” says Zakowska. as a U.S.-Italian The Italy-U.S. bond also incorporates collaboration common visions and artistic sensibilities. that hews closely to the vision of Significantly, in 2011, when Canonero was writer-director a producer on the Roberto Faenza film Paolo Sorrentino.

In Production

TITLE/DISTRIBUTOR GENRE PRODUCTION DIRECTOR/SHOWRUNNER CASTS SHOOTHO START LOCATION VARIETY.COM Billions (Season 5) Brian Koppelman, David Levien Paul Giamatti,ti, Drama Showtime Ent., Best Available! 11/411/4 New York Showtime (showrunners) Damian Lewiss Mare of Easttown HBO, Wiip Studios, Mayhem Gavin O’Connor (director) Kate Winslet,, Drama 11/411/4 Philadelphia HBO Pictures Brad Ingelsby (showrunner) Evan Peters Mucho Mas, Reserve Ent., Third Dominican On the Line Drama Julio Quintana (director) Dennis Quaidd 11/411/4 Coast Content, Endeavor Content Republic OCTOBER 29, 2019 OCTOBER The Virgin of Go East Media, All the Leaves Penelope Annn Miller, Dramedy Sonia Sebastian (director) 11/1211/12 Los Angeles Highland Park Have Fallen Dermot Mulroneyoney

THE NEW POPE: GIANNI FIORITO/HBO (2); QUAID: DAVID BUCHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK DAVID (2); QUAID: THE NEW POPE: GIANNI FIORITO/HBO 115 DATA PROVIDED BY VARIETY INSIGHT. FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF FILMS IN PRODUCTION, VISIT VARIETYINSIGHT.COM