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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Los Angeles British Travelers, Catholic Sights, and the Tourist Guidebook, 1789-1884 A dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in English by Alexandra Lauren Milsom 2016 © Copyright by Alexandra Lauren Milsom 2016 ABSTRACT OF THE DISSERTATION British Travelers, Catholic Sights, and the Tourist Guidebook, 1789-1884 by Alexandra Lauren Milsom Doctor of Philosophy in English University of California, Los Angeles, 2016 Professor Ali Behdad, Co-Chair Professor Joseph E. Bristow, Co-Chair This study explores the development of British tourist guidebooks that became increasingly interested Continental Catholicism, its people, and its art and architecture over the course of the nineteenth century. The eighteenth-century Grand Tour, long the domain of young aristocrats, had been a secular pilgrimage to Rome and the capstone to a traditional Classical Oxbridge education. After the wars with France ended in 1815, however, transformations in transportation made Continental Europe accessible to middle-class British tourists. As this fresh generation of travelers went abroad, they cared less about Classical history and more about Roman Catholic cultural artefacts and practices. The dissertation shows that British tourist guidebooks, which frequently Orientalized their Catholic subject matter, became central to consolidating a specific British, Protestant identity from the 1810s onward. ii The dissertation of Alexandra Lauren Milsom is approved. Akhil Gupta Saree Makdisi Ali Behdad, Committee Co-Chair Joseph E. Bristow, Committee Co-Chair University of California, Los Angeles 2016 iii To the late Reverend Robert J. Stone. He reenacted a Grand Tour using Frommer’s Europe on 5 Dollars a Day in 1967, and he gave me my first book on Blake in 1996. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS Acknowledgements ............................................................................................................. vi Introduction ......................................................................................................................... 1 Chapter One ....................................................................................................................... 30 Radical Catholicism and John Chetwode Eustace's Classical Tour: The Unlikely Origins of the Nineteenth-Century Guidebook Chapter Two ...................................................................................................................... 84 John Murray III, Sir Francis Palgrave, Richard Ford, and Exotic Catholicism: The Standardization of the Nineteenth-Century Guidebook Chapter Three .................................................................................................................. 138 John Ruskin, Anti-Tourism, and Venice: Architectural Preservation, Aesthetic Pedagogy, and Social Reform Chapter Four .................................................................................................................... 204 The Nineteenth-Century Guidebook and the Anti-Catholic Tourist: Jemima Morrell’s Swiss Journal Afterword ......................................................................................................................... 248 Reflections on Rick Steves's Rick Steves' Italy 2016 Bibliography .................................................................................................................... 259 v ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Atisha, the great eleventh-century Buddhist teacher from Bengal, reminds us to “be grateful to everyone.” There are a few people to whom I am particularly grateful, however, and I would like to thank for their care for me while I wrote this dissertation: Ali Behdad has constantly provided me with inspiration, his insights taught me what my strengths were, and his affable support was a consistent source of relief throughout. Saree Makdisi literally was my tour guide for a month in London, and from him I learned how to do archival research, make academic writing relevant to the twenty-first century world, and to challenge suspect claims. His unique style of incorporating his students into his own research process taught me how a great scholar works. Christopher Mott consistently offered collegial camaraderie and will always serve as role model to me in his dedication to pedagogy and students. I also owe a debt of gratitude to Anne Mellor, with whom I have collaborated and from whom I have taken a great deal of advice. She has been a thoughtful mentor since my first year of graduate school. My deepest thanks go to Joseph Bristow, whom I credit with any improvements I have made in my scholarship and writing over the past eight years. I feel extraordinarily fortunate to have been the beneficiary of his generosity and incisive mentorship, and I think that this is the proper place to mention that, coincidentally, his father is responsible for the Thomas Cook Agency’s catchy slogan (which can be found in the Advertising Hall of Fame in the UK): “Don’t just book it, Thomas Cook it!”1 I take this as a sign that I made the right decision when I made him co-chair of my dissertation committee. 1 “Advertising Slogan Hall of Fame,”Ad Slogans, http://www.adslogans.co.uk/site/pages/home/hall-of- fame.php (accessed 24 April 2016). vi The Harry and Yvonne Lenart Graduate Travel Fellowship enabled me to visit the Turner Bequest at the Tate London and the John Murray Archive at the National Library of Scotland in Edinburgh. The Irving and Jean Stone Endowed Fellowship provided essential support for me as I completed my dissertation during the past year. My academic interest in tourism predates graduate school, and my undergraduate professors all had a hand in this: William Deresiewicz, still a dear friend and mentor, was prophetic when he told me I would “love grad school but grow skeptical about the ivory tower”; Stefanie Markovits, while reading my undergraduate thesis noticed “what you really are writing about here is tourism, you know”; Priscilla Gilman, an eighteenth-century scholar who talked openly about her love of pop culture and People Magazine, made me realize that people like me could find a place in academia; and Blakey Vermeule, who taught my freshman-year English class and did a handstand on the table as an act of performance art to try to convince us to like Pope. As you can see, I have not changed course since. Amy Wong, Mathilda Wong, Michael Nicholson, and Sina Rahmani have been consistent sources of friendship and love during my eight years in Los Angeles. Without them, I would never have found the strength to carry on with my work. I also have been buoyed by so many other friends: Sarah Blood-Durn-Shaulis, Laura Schwartz, Peter Scott, Lynn Houlis, Robert Hawks, and Connie Palmer were early inspirations. Alex Zobel, Josephine Richstad, Christopher Sanchez, Julia Callander, Maryam Kahn, Rande Levine, Alex Tonner, Abigail Fyre, John Peacock, John Keogh, Louise Weed, Christopher Peacock, Lara Nochomovitz, Mary Chamberlin, Nikil Mehta, Katie Shilton, Eli Kagan, Christopher Lee, Madeline Podnar, Lisa Pursell, Evan Weinberg, Josie Boudreaux, Ashoka Mukpo, Gabe Higgins, Joseph Schoech, Kate Baker Linsley, Ming Linsley, Perkins and Wickliffe Lyne, the Gebroe family, Myvanwy Powell, Amanda Waldo, Michelle Bumatay, Anne Austin, Deborah vii Friedell, Beth Rubenstein, Meredith Angelson, Genevieve Angelson, Nathaniel Rich, Maron Greenleaf, and Jill Cohen have all been around throughout. It would not be in character if I did not thank Arwen Evenstar and Keiko, who have been loyal, constant companions through every stage of graduate school. And my family deserves the most gratitude I can muster: Sarah, Geoffrey, and Jeffrey are members of my own personal tour group. They have valiantly looked on, sometimes in confusion, with unconditional love as I made my way toward graduation. Fredericka has been the most recent addition to our group, and she promises to be its most valuable member. Finally, I would like to thank my mother, Susan Stone, whose dissertation advice has been of great benefit not just to me, but to hundreds of other graduate students over the past eight years (on a secret blog). When she said, “just string a bunch of big words together and use a lot of long quotes,” she did not know how right she was. Careers have been made doing just that! viii *** Portions of Chapter 1 have been accepted for publication to Studies in Romanticism. ix VITA 2003 B.A., English Yale University New Haven, CT 2006 M. Sc., Education, Adolescent English Fordham University Bronx, NY 2011 M.A., English University of California, Los Angeles Los Angeles, CA 2012 C. Phil., English University of California, Los Angeles Los Angeles, CA PUBLICATIONS Milsom, Alexandra Lauren. “The 19th-Century Traveler and the 21st-Century Scholar.” Literature Compass 10:9 (September 2013): 725-733. Mellor, Anne K., and Alexandra Lauren Milsom. “Austen’s Fanny Price, Grateful Negroes, and the Stockholm Syndrome.” Persuasions: The Jane Austen Journal 34 (2012): 222-235. Milsom, Alexandra Lauren. “John Chetwode Eustace, Radical Catholicism, and the Travel Guidebook: The Classical Tour (1813) and Its Legacy.” Studies in Romanticism (forthcoming). Milsom, Alexandra Lauren. “Manlier than Mozart: The Anti-Wagnerian Stance of A Wicked Voice.” Consortium: A Journal of Cross-Disciplinary Inquiry. Boulder: UC Boulder Umbrellagraph Press, 2011. x INTRODUCTION The only remarkable thing people can tell of their doings these days is that they have stayed at home.1 —George Eliot,