Indigenous Cuisine: an Archaeological and Linguistic Study of Colonial Zapotec Foodways on the Si Thmus of Tehuantepec Michelle R
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University of Massachusetts Boston ScholarWorks at UMass Boston Graduate Masters Theses Doctoral Dissertations and Masters Theses 8-1-2013 Indigenous Cuisine: An Archaeological and Linguistic Study of Colonial Zapotec Foodways On The sI thmus of Tehuantepec Michelle R. Zulauf University of Massachusetts Boston Follow this and additional works at: http://scholarworks.umb.edu/masters_theses Part of the Latin American History Commons, and the Social and Cultural Anthropology Commons Recommended Citation Zulauf, Michelle R., "Indigenous Cuisine: An Archaeological and Linguistic Study of Colonial Zapotec Foodways On The sI thmus of Tehuantepec" (2013). Graduate Masters Theses. Paper 195. This Open Access Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Doctoral Dissertations and Masters Theses at ScholarWorks at UMass Boston. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Masters Theses by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks at UMass Boston. For more information, please contact [email protected]. INDIGENOUS CUISINE: AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND LINGUISTIC STUDY OF COLONIAL ZAPOTEC FOODWAYS ON THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC A Thesis Presented by MICHELLE R. ZULAUF Submitted to the Office of Graduate Studies, University of Massachusetts Boston, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS August 2013 Historical Archaeology Program © 2013 by Michelle R. Zulauf All rights reserved INDIGENOUS CUISINE: AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND LINGUISIC STUDY OF COLONIAL ZAPOTEC FOODWAYS ON THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC A Thesis Presented by MICHELLE R. ZULAUF Approved as to style and content by: ________________________________________________ Judith F. Zeitlin, Professor Chairperson of Committee ________________________________________________ Rosalyn Negrón, Assistant Professor Member ________________________________________________ Heather Trigg, Senior Scientist, Fiske Center Member _________________________________________ Stephen Silliman, Program Director Historical Archaeology Program _________________________________________ Judith Zeitlin, Chairperson Anthropology Department ABSTRACT INDIGENOUS CUISINE: AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND LINGUISTIC STUDY OF COLONIAL ZAPOTEC FOODWAYS ONTHE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC August 2013 Michelle R. Zulauf, B.A., University of Puerto Rico, Rio Piedras M.A., University of Massachusetts Boston Directed by Professor Judith F. Zeitlin Cuisine refers to the ethnically idiosyncratic food choices and the manner and methods in which these foods are prepared and served. In this investigation I will explore traditional Zapotec cuisine and its early colonial changes and continuities on Mexico's Isthmus of Tehuantepec by examining available food sources, food preparation techniques and equipment, and food serving traditions evidenced at the archaeological site of Rancho Santa Cruz. In order to achieve this I developed a two-fold analysis. The first component was the analysis of the Vocabulario en Lengua Zapoteca published by Fray Juan de Córdova in 1578. This historical dictionary provides an extensive view of the indigenous practices and lifestyles through the translation of concepts and ideas from the Zapotec language to Spanish. The second part consists of analysis of the Rancho Santa Cruz site ceramic assemblage, dating to the early colonial period (c. 1600-1750). iv This ceramic assemblage was examined using both a type-variety analysis and a consumer-oriented analysis. Both archaeological and linguistic sources provided information on cooking and serving techniques, foodstuffs, and other related cuisine activities. Finally, I was able to observe the different kinds of challenges and opportunities a colonial household faced, such as the introduction of new animals, plants, cuisine styles, eating habits, cooking equipment and technology. Zapotec cuisine became a dynamic one after the Spanish conquest, one in which new food sources were adapted and incorporated with traditional cooking styles and methods. v AKNOWLEDGMENTS First and for most I would like to thank Dr. Judith Zeitlin for all her guidance, orientation, and patience offered along the way. This has been a long journey for me and she has been there for me since the beginning. I also want to thanks my husband Nick for giving that last push I needed to finish this thesis. I would also like to acknowledge my parents for all their support and for believing in me always, and everyone who helped me in any way through this voyage. Finally I would like to dedicate this work to my grandfather who was not able to see me complete this project. He was my biggest fan and I am who I am because of him. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................................................. iv LIST OF FIGURES & ILLUSTRATIONS ................................................... ix LIST OF TABLES ......................................................................................... x CHAPTER Page I. INTRODUCTION ............................................................................. 1 The Tehuantepec Isthmus ...................................................... 3 Prehistory of the Zapotec Isthmus ......................................... 5 Spanish Conquest and Colonization ...................................... 6 Ranching haciendas ............................................................... 8 Rancho Santa Cruz ................................................................. 10 Field work at the Rancho Santa Cruz .................................... 11 II. VOCABULARIO EN LENGUA ZAPOTECA: A HISTORICAL DICTIONARY .............................................................................. 15 The object of study and methodological approach ................ 19 Foodstuffs .............................................................................. 22 Food sources: plants and animals ............................... 23 Plants and plant products ................................. 23 Animal and animal products ............................ 30 Prepared food or meals ............................................... 34 Grain based goods ............................................ 34 Stews ................................................................ 37 Drinks ............................................................... 40 Vessels and Utensils .............................................................. 43 Discussion .............................................................................. 47 III. A PRODUCER ORIENTED CERAMIC ANALYSIS ..................... 51 Rancho Santa Cruz archaeological assemblage ..................... 53 Tablón Orange ....................................................................... 54 Reu Silty................................................................................. 58 Orozco Coarse ........................................................................ 60 Orozco brushed ........................................................... 62 Miscellaneous decorative finishes within Orozco ..... 62 Barbacana White .................................................................... 63 Majolica and Lead-Glazed Ceramics ..................................... 65 iv CHAPTER Page Discussion .............................................................................. 66 IV. A CONSUMER ORIENTED CERAMIC ANALYSIS .................... 69 Cooking Ware ........................................................................ 71 Ollas ............................................................................ 73 Jarras ........................................................................... 75 Comales....................................................................... 77 Pichanchas................................................................... 78 Serving Ware ......................................................................... 80 Out-slanting wall bowls ............................................. 81 Hemispherical bowls .................................................. 81 Vertical wall bowls .................................................... 83 Copitas ....................................................................... 83 House Ware ............................................................................ 85 Palmatorias ................................................................. 85 Discussion .............................................................................. 86 V. CONCLUSIONS................................................................................ 90 A Historical Dictionary .......................................................... 90 Different Approaches, Different Results ............................... 95 An Indigenous Kitchen and Cuisine ...................................... 99 BIBLIOGRAPHY .......................................................................................... 102 v LIST OF FIGURES AND ILLUSTRATIONS Figures Page 1.1 Map of Southern Isthmus of Tehuantepec ................................. 4 1.2 Church of Chihuitán ................................................................... 11 1.3 Rancho Santa Cruz site map ...................................................... 12 2.1 Morphological diagram ............................................................. 23 2.2 Morphological “Plant provenience” diagram ........................... 26 2.3 Chocolate offering in a marriage ceremony, Codex Zouche-Nattall ............................................................... 41 3.1 “Cursive White” decorated Tablón Orange sherds.