kvarter Volume 18. Spring 2019 • on the web akademiskacademic quarter

Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern city Augmenting urban space with literary connections during the Tove Jansson walk in Helsinki

Evgenia Amey is a PhD student in the Department of Music, Art and Culture Studies at the University of Jyväskylä, Finland. She is current- ly working on her doctoral dissertation which focuses on travel inspired by fictional literature, film, TV, and video games.

Abstract The article employs the theme of a literary walk (Watson 2009), a practice of encountering places with literary associations on foot. Urban areas present especially suitable settings for such themed walks, as cities can have multiple literary connections, and liter- ary places are located within a short distance from one another. In this paper, I focus on the sites associated with Tove Jansson (1914– 2001), a Finnish-Swedish artist and writer, internationally known for her books about the Moomins. The study utilises an autoeth- nographic approach and draws on observations at the sites with connections to Jansson in Helsinki, organised spatially into a walk around the city. I analyse how urban space can be augmented (Sandvik and Waade 2008) by literary associations through narra- tivization of the author’s biography and a visitor’s own knowl- edge and imagination.

Keywords literary walk, literary place, literary travel, augmented space, Tove Jansson

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Volume 18 Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing Recognising well-known writers as part of cultural heritage is In this paper I focus on one example of commemorative practice Literature, as part of cultural heritage, often plays a key role in role key plays a often heritage, cultural of part as Literature, dedicated to a nationally celebrated author by analysing the so- an autoethno Jansson walk in Helsinki, Finland, from called Tove Jansson (1914–2001), a Finnish-Swedish graphic perspective. Tove artist and writer who achieved international popularity as the crea was born in Helsinki and lived and worked tor of the Moomins, for most of her life. Following the centenary of her birth, sev there theiron information published organisations public and private eral for fictional events (Herbert 2001; Robinson and Andersen 2002; 2006). Watson and cultural identity and linked to the politics of national strongly Acts of commemoration, such as unveiling belonging (Plate 2006). and buildings, and in streets plaques and monuments, renaming dates, significant with in tied usually – itineraries themed troducing such as birth or death anniversaries – establish tangible ties between literary figures and urban space (Robinson and Andersen 2002; 2006; Bom 2015a). Watson it antique books, local food, or a specific architectural style. Organ style. architectural specific a or food, local books, antique it maps for independent navi ised walking tours or downloadable gation offer toguide visitors taking through them a to city, places which match their interests. a literary walk is a common lei attracting visitors to the cities, and 2006). Such walks can cen activity for urban vacationers (Plate sure sites with biographical ties, on authors’ personae and include tre walks em story-centred such as homes and graves; alternatively, phasize connections to fiction and often incorporate places which locations that act as settings important to the narratives, such as are Introduction is a com a themed walk space on foot through Exploring urban In many Eu practice (Plate 2006; Solnit 2014). mon contemporary multiple heritage land feature city centres cities, historic ropean a walking within as popular attractions and are marks, which act walk is spatially or city A another (Plate 2006). one from distance on landmarks chosen the connecting path a follows and ganised provides brief online search A the basis of an underlying theme. plenty of options targeted at audiences with specific interests – be quarter

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Volume 18 Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing In the late twentieth century, in light of the emerging public ini public emerging the of light in century, twentieth late the In This study draws on observations at the sites with biographical on observations at the sites with This study draws tors and residents alike are invited to “walk in the footsteps” of invited to “walk in the footsteps” of alike are tors and residents writers or follow the of routes their fictional characters (Plate 2006; van Es and Reijnders 2018). The supply tours of ca author-centred bio to experience the imagined past through ters to people’s desire graphical connection to a known literary figure. Places typically included in the itineraries based on factual ties with authors are the tour, bus a to comparison In sites. burial and homes, birthplaces, visi allows tour walking a of pace slower the and physical activity back to the Romantic era and the writings of Leigh Hunt, one of the of one Hunt, Leigh of writings the and era Romantic the to back first to present hisreaders with the literary attractions of London city the enlivened essays Hunt’s “walks”. themed into arranged it as a walkable space for liter with literary associations, recreating ary enthusiasts and providing a “memorial and affective map” 2012, 9) of London. (Westover and commemorate local cultural heritage, the tiatives to preserve manifesting in the tradition of the literary walk enjoyed a revival, (Plate 2006). of “chasing” after authors’ ghosts in metropolises trend visi walking tours and itineraries, Nowadays, in many promoted (e.g. by interactive web maps), using mobile applications such as Using an autoethnograph and to consult websites for information. space can be augmented (Sandvik I analyse how urban ic approach, adding a bio by literary associations through 2008) and Waade during the walk, enabling graphical layer to the places encountered visitors to “dive” into the author’s time. urban space and literary icon-cities Literarywalk, 2009) was es ramble” (Watson The practice of the urban “literary (2012) Westover century. tablished in Britain by the mid-nineteenth traces one of the earliest written descriptions of the phenomenon web pages about places with biographical connections to her and to places with biographical connections web pages about her famous characters. geographically into a in Helsinki, organised Jansson ties to Tove of the Helsinki published on the web pages walk, using itineraries In recent Moomin Characters Ltd. for reference. Art Museum and availabil the and devices mobile personal of use growing the years, made it easier for independent ity of an Internet connection have visitors to arrange self-guided tours in the cities, to find locations quarter

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Volume 18 Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing like London and Paris. While such cities Paris. While such cities like London and (Bom 2015a, 2015b) are known for being predomi known (Bom 2015a, 2015b) are literary cities A number of commemorative events were held in Finland after commemorative events were number of A The tradition of a literary walk has been predominantly associ a literary walk has been predominantly The tradition of tend to overshadow Jansson’s persona as well as her other artistic 2014). work (Westin Jansson’s death in 2001. During 2014, which marked the centenary events followed: a park of her birth, and in subsequent years, more published in her honour; itineraries were in Helsinki was renamed visitors to places which Jansson frequented to guide interested and held in Finland during her life; exhibitions of her works were other countries for periods of time and, later in life, divided her other countries for periods of time with home which she shared time between the city and an island 2014). Having been born into an artistic family her partner (Westin education, Jansson worked through visual arts and having received and a cartoonist. In addition, an illustrator, out her life as a painter, and illustrated the novels and short stories, and wrote she authored Moomin books and comic strips. She considered herself first and though 2014), (Westin writer a then only and artist an foremost of the known as the author today she is predominantly ironically literary national a as regarded is Finland she In stories. Moomin and artistic icon, although her fictional creations – theMoomins – Vimmerby (Bom 2015b) in Sweden have been represented primar (Bom 2015b) in Sweden have been represented Vimmerby icons, the former being the their connections to literary ily through Astrid Lindgren. Andersen and the latter – of birth place of H. C. the capitals Interestingly, of Denmark, Sweden, and Finland are writer: Copenhagen is children’s each associated with a famous Andersen (Steiner 2016), Stockholm known for its connection with Jansson. with Tove and Helsinki with Lindgren, Helsinki Jansson’s Tove Diving into in Helsinki and lived in the city Jansson (1914–2001) was born Tove in resided travelled extensively, for most of her life, although she tors not only to observe the surroundings but to achieve an embod but to achieve the surroundings tors not only to observe to that similar manner the places in a presumably ied experience of themselves (Plate 2006). of the famous writers ated with connections, on having multiple famous literary pride themselves literary icon-cities con In the Nordic literary figure. nantly associated with one iconic andDenmark in 2015a) (Bom Odense of cities the instance, for text, quarter

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Volume 18 Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing The research material is comprised of my field notes, written as In order to see how the city of Helsinki is experienced through its through city of Helsinki is experienced to see how the In order narrative accounts of the walks and documenting observations and documenting observations narrative accounts of the walks participate in a self-guided walking tour myself. For this study, I study, For this myself. tour walking self-guided participate in a which draws on the approach, have adopted an autoethnographic researcher’s own lived experience and reflections in order to pro under investigation (Bolen vide insights into the phenomenon visi when studying ethnography is often employed While 2017). Reijnders and Es van 2015a; Bom (e.g. experiences tors’/tourists’ been used to study ur previously 2018) and autoethnography has wantedI study current the in 2009), (Stead experiences walking ban to find out whether an autoethnographic approachwould prove spatial augmentation. useful in studying the perceived abroad; a new Moomin Museum opened in the city of Tampere in Tampere Museum opened in the city of a new Moomin abroad; and artists known many to home been Helsinki had While 2017. popularity writers, the international Moomin charac of Jansson’s designating thus figures, recognised most the of one her makes ters Helsinki as an icon-city. connection to Jansson and to find out the ways in which urban literary walk, it was necessary forspace can be augmented during a to and 2018) Reijnders and Es (van visitor a of role the on take to me quarter

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lut, Helsinki 2019. routes in Helsinki © routes

Figure 1. The walking Figure Kaupunkimittauspalve

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Sculptor’s Sculptor’s and Moomin Char Volume 18 1 Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing [Jansson’s childhood memoir, 1968/2013]. So I 1968/2013]. So memoir, childhood [Jansson’s . 2 On a surprisingly sunny day, we finally went on a Tove- a on went finally we day, sunny surprisingly a On through browsing spent days that, I’d Before adventure. biographical maps (old and new) of Helsinki, reading material, translated letters, and excerpts from Daughter (Field notes, June 2017) was all prepared. In connection to the question, research thematic analysis of field The itineraries feature mapped and numbered sites which in which sites mapped and numbered The itineraries feature during the walk ing through the innermost city and leading west, to Tove Jansson’s and leading west, to Tove the innermost city ing through cemetery. resting place in the Hietaniemi final which potentially enable on the aspects of the walk notes centred visitors to figuratively “dive” into the writer’s travel”, time. “Time mapped connections between the author and the enabled through and narrativization of Jansson’s life based on the visitor’s own city, to contributing factors as imagination manifested knowledge and the spatial augmentation. life Jansson’s Tove Constructing the narrative of eastern parts of the city centre. The choice of the sites and their spa eastern parts of the city centre. by itineraries provided into a walk was prompted tial organisation Art Museum on the web pages of the Helsinki acters Ltd institutions, and placesclude Jansson’s former homes, educational as wellitineraries, both in Featured life. her during she frequented Characters Ltd. website as on another page on the Moomin Jansson – – Viktor father Jansson’s Tove by also public sculptures aThe sites form after her. known to have been modelled are which wind centre, city the of part eastern the from starting trail walkable made at the sites with connections to Tove Jansson in the historical Jansson in Tove with connections to made at the sites supplemented by visual data The field notes are of Helsinki. centre was carried taken at the sites. Fieldwork in the form of photographs out over the course of two days – in June and December 2017 – to has similarly, who, Elina Huttunen, fellow researcher, gether with a Jansson. In June, the Tove in and personal interest a professional the western, central and through two of us embarked on a walk The walk was recom area. southern parts of the inner Helsinki menced in December of the covering same the year, central, and quarter

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Volume 18 Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing In their analysis of crime scenes as mediatised In their analysis of crime scenes as mediatised connections and through the use of media – can oc connections and through among other means, by narrativization and cur, narrative the is it walk, our During fictionalisation. However, the trails which we followed in the course path going in theof the two days formed a winding itiner the in proposed one the to opposite direction one of the west to east, beginning from aries – from visit to the ceme the grave. The and family homes which tery, is generally taken to indicate finality, tour a pessimistic hue,nevertheless did not give the – she is dead that “…reminder serving only as a then in my building, her grave; and the plaque on started with a visitmind she’s alive again. The walk it as we walked but I managed to forget to a cemetery, to the next site” (June 2017). The connection between gets mapped in the itineraries and the city, Jansson byconfirmed what I see – commemorative plaques the gravestone; her teenage self, embodied in public her father’sspace through The actual sculptures. been had indeed she that indicate objects physical or at the least – that she indeed existed. there, present (2008) observe that spaces, Sandvik and Waade spatial augmentation – the enhancement of space senses and emotions on the basis of media through the eastern part of the city, followed by several sites the eastern part of the city, with order, in random chronological in the centre end the to close Jansson’s grave to be encountered the course of the of the walk. The walks taken in convenience. for arranged similarly were fieldwork In themed urban walks, sites are often arranged for convenience often arranged walks, sites are In themed urban Our self-guided walking tour was driven by a biographical interest interest biographical a by driven was tour walking self-guided Our in Jansson, rather than her fictional creations. I had already been prior to conduct literary and artistic works familiar with Jansson’s ing fieldwork and had done my “homework” by getting acquaint and itineraries in advance. sources ed with biographical to the author’s chronologically corresponding rather than in order of both to follow the numbering order life (Plate 2006). If one were itineraries, the trail would start Jansson’s from first family home in quarter

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Photo by author, 2017. Photo by author, Figure 2. Convolvulus by Viktor Jansson by Viktor 2. Convolvulus Figure Jansson). (modelled after teenage Tove

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Volume 18 Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing Plate (2006) points out how literary walks, by walks, by Plate (2006) points out how literary While no augmented reality software was used was used software reality While no augmented places visited with specific events in Jansson’s life.places visited with specific events associated with an one place leading visitors from narratives of the author’s create author to another, follow everylife, embedded in urban space. I cannot but life precisely, Jansson’s month and year of Tove when occupy only “see her in […] pockets of time”, 2013) did (Watson ing the same space as she once 2006). her spatial movements (Plate and recreating urban space While physical movement through turns this narration into an embodied experience, it we walk at the same time disrupts the city where of the laid out across Jansson’s life that gets told and Mu Art Helsinki the of title the in reflected is as city, path of Tove”. “The life seum’s itinerary, to enhance the urban space (Sand during the walk mobile devices were 2008), personal vik and Waade navigating, andused for consulting the itineraries, visi guided tour, fact-checking. Because it is not a act as their owntors (like my colleague and myself) the find to ability one’s on depends much so guides, utilise it during the information and to required information via Instant access to biographical tour. navigationmobile devices enabled our independent the correlate the city and allowed us to through In the course of this non-chronological walk, places encountered walk, places encountered In the course of this non-chronological ager, posing for her father’s she goes to art school that ager, statue; here she disliked; here is her as an adult walking through the city” (De cember 2017). Because not even twenty years have passed since her in her later death, many places likely stayed the same as they were connected to many sites included in the walk are years. However, an earlier time in her life – first as a child, then as a student and young adult, and later as a known artist and writer. – we have to pause for traffic, occasionally get distracted, or have a have or distracted, get occasionally traffic, for pause to have we – sudden need to “stop by a tea shop” or “have a coffee break at a café we’ve deemed worthy” (June 2017). teen a she’s here life: Jansson’s of stages “different to connected are quarter

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grave, Hietaniemi cemetery. 2017. Photo by author, Figure 3. Tove Jansson’s 3. Tove Figure

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Volume 18 ] featured photographs ] featured Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing Sculptor’s Daughter Sculptor’s again diving into the past, following Jansson’sagain diving into the past, following timeline. (December 2017) Suddenly there’s just us – here and now – – now and here – us just there’s Suddenly in the Christmas market walking through 2017, sipping coffee in a café next to Senate again into Jans and then we dive back square, home, a her childhood son’s Helsinki; here’s into again Resurfacing artists. for flats of block to buy Moomin souvenirs. Then the present The reconstructed biographical narrative is by no narrative is by no biographical The reconstructed Similar to how a “crime tourist” (Sandvik and (Sandvik and Similar to how a “crime tourist” 2008) Waade might reconstruct historical and fic cues, plac tional crime scenes based on provided means linear; it jumps back and forth in time. It con means linear; it jumps sists of flashbacks – not Jansson’s own, but mine, a new piece and discover sources when I consult the from detail random a remember or information of her autobiography: proximately proximately the floor on which they lived. This little in vestigation of mine afforded some satisfaction, so when I was able to check it out “in real we actually went there, somewhat 90 years later. ity”, standing on the same street, (December 2017) My edition [of we resumed so before family archives, and drawings from the walk [in December], I checked Google Maps satellite her she lived] to see whether where view [of the street the window can somehow be a view from drawing of that building, the gate (perhaps, traced – and it was there, looking different now). The angle from which she drew and ap the windows were, indicated where the street As follows from this excerpt, I compared archive pictures to web pictures archive this excerpt, I compared As follows from Janssons to deduce which apartment the the “reality” maps and to ing pieces of an author’s might biographical narrative together some “detective work”: require quarter

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memorial plaque (by Jansson). Viktor 2017. Photo by author, Figure 4. Tove Jansson’s 4. Tove Figure

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia – and how her lifehow and – Volume 18 was (December 2017).

Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing The deceased author becomes fictionalised, as her as fictionalised, becomes author deceased The Based on the field notes, it is not only factual my mind”: my own imagination plays a key role in plays a key role my mind”: my own imagination associated plac glimpses of Jansson’s life at creating narrative together. es and piecing the biographical that historicalPlate (2006) and Bom (2015a) observe for literary visitors,facts can become less important example, of going back experience – for as perceived and feelings on emotions more into the past – relies facts. Sandvik and of visitors, rather than hard note that spaces can be en (2008) similarly Waade The narrative of visitors’ emotions. hanced through Jansson’s life and the past I am immersed in at the essentially imagined. literary sites are used to occupy. While the cityscape had undergone cityscape had undergone While the used to occupy. that I I assume her childhood, rapid changes since it as city the past”, or “see am able to “see through”, that city the into and 2017 in is it: “The city I see is the city of today, was connected to trying to her onto the city as it is now, so I project Is it my attempt tobring out the city as it was then. make the urban space meaningful, to envision it her life?” through obtained – of the knowledge – long-held or recently author’s biography which allows me to “activate” The often-men 7) the surroundings. 2012, (Westover with “in paired tioned act of “seeing” is recurrently across the city, driven by visitors’ imaginations and an author’s driven by visitors’ imaginations the city, across (Steiner 2016). temporary proximity perceived Conclusion In this article, I examined how urban space can be experienced walks.thematic during writers connection to biographical through drawing on obser the help of the autoethnographic approach, With inJansson Tove on centred walk self-guided a during made vations life story is narrativized and embedded into the urban space (Bom into the urban space embedded narrativized and life story is 2016), (McLaughlin characters fictional elusive with as Just 2015a). on following in the footsteps of someone literary walks, centred who is no longer living, make visitors pursue authors’ ghosts quarter

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Photo by author, 2017. Photo by author, Figure Figure Apartment5. Jansson block where lived in her tower studio.

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia The Sage Encyclo 28(2): 312–333. Volume 18 (Vols. 1-4), edited by 1-4), edited by (Vols. Literary Geographies Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing Annals of Tourism Research Annals of Tourism 10: 35–52. Sculptor’s Daughter: A Childhood Memoir. Daughter: A Sculptor’s tage Experience”. pedia of Communication Research Methods pedia of Communication Research Publications, Inc. Allen, 74–76. Thousand Oaks: SAGE Mike Authenticity and Fictionalization of Urban Space”. ership, Akademisk Kvarter Authenticity in the Literary Icon-city”. ing and Experience of Kultur og Medier, Aktuel forskning ved Institut for Litteratur, cember: 85–97. lated by Kingsley Hart. London: Sort of Books. Geographies”. Literary Sherlockian in 144–163. The results indicate that visitors are able to piece the narrative of indicate that visitors are The results Drawing on the idea of spatial augmentation by fiction proposed proposed fiction by augmentation spatial of idea the on Drawing Herbert, David 2001. T. “Literary and Places, the Tourism Heri 2013. Jansson, Tove. Practice as Walking Afoot: Game’s “The 2016. David. McLaughlin, References Bolen, Derek M. 2017. “Autoethnography”. In Own Icon-city: the in Practice “Affective 2015a. Klara. Anne Bom, Bom, Anne Klara. 2015b. “Where Fiction Really Exists: The Stag during a literary walk. Though nonlinear and easily interruptible and easily interruptible during a literary walk. Though nonlinear spatially constructed is narrative biographical the itself, city the by urban space, site to the other through one as visitors move from writer’senabling them to “dive” into the time when encountering associated sites. surrounding into the author the placing author’sthe life together, imagina factual knowledge and their own through urban space tion, thus envisioning the author’spersonal narrative tied to the city. geography and history of the growing Helsinki, I looked at how biographical narratives of known authors at how biographical narratives Helsinki, I looked to meth regard to the urban space. With can add new dimensions in approach utilising the autoethnographic I found that odology, by useful allowing my personal me to focus on the study proved and thoughts the on reflect to and walk the of experience embodied it. from resulting emotional responses (2008), this study has shown that urban by Sandvik and Waade of the author’sspace can be augmented by narrativization life quarter

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Evgenia Amey Evgenia Volume 18 Chasing writers’ ghosts through a modern a city through ghosts writers’ Chasing Helsinki Art Museum: The life path of Tove. https://www.hamhelsin The life path of Tove. Art Museum: Helsinki ki.fi/en/exhibition/tove-jansson/ Moomin Characters Ltd.: Discover Jansson’s Tove life and art through April 2014. https://www.moomin.com/en/ 4 this map of Helsinki. blog/discover-tove-janssons-life-and-art-through-this/ Jansson. 28 July 2015. https://www.moomin.com/en/ of Tove tures blog/discover-helsinki-see-the-beautiful-sculptures-of-tove-jansson/ Notes 1 2 3 Moomin Characters Ltd.: Discover Helsinki – see the beautiful sculp quarter

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