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ADRIAN CAFFERY Visits the Little Cornish Resort of Polzeath and Finds

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ADRIAN CAFFERY Visits the Little Cornish Resort of Polzeath and Finds BIRMINGHAM POST THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2020 59 GETAWAY ADRIAN CAFFERY Tintagel Castle visits the little Cornish resort of Polzeath Land of mystery, and finds out how it cast a spell over princes and a certain former prime minister magic and lore T WAS good weather for ducks and surfers as we arrived at our holiday destination on the north Cornwall coast. We had neither feathers nor Iwetsuits to protect us from the driving wind and rain, but that didn’t totally spoil the start of our October half term short break. From our apartment, up a hill in the village of Polzeath, we could enjoy sweeping views across Hayle Bay. The windows stretched the width of the living area, while its two bedrooms faced the sea, too. Beyond the golden beach and countless surfers riding the renowned waves was the rolling greenery of Pentire Head, and we could only imagine what a colourful sight it beach, within one of the region’s best the beach is fringed with high dunes along a narrow strip of land which would be on a cloudless day. St Nectan’s Glen links golf courses, we found St which provide the perfect spot for a disappeared between the 14th and We were staying at The Enodoc Church, which for at least 200 picnic. 17th centuries, leaving the castle Oystercatcher, a refurbished St Austell years was almost entirely buried by From Rock you can catch the divided. Brewery pub that in the past has the shifting sand dunes. regular Black Tor ferry across the Previously, visitors to the ruins – proved popular with keen surfers To maintain its grants, the church estuary to the fishing village of which legend has it is the place King Prince William and Prince Harry. had to hold a service at least once Padstow, with its famous restaurants Arthur was conceived – had to cross a It was re-opened in May following a every year, and on those occasions and National Lobster Hatchery. much lower bridge and then climb huge extension which involved the the vicar and parishioners were The village also marks the start of steep steps. transformation of its bar and dining lowered in through a hole cut in the the Camel Trail, an 18-mile It’s a magical place and I’d areas. The contemporary restaurant roof. cycling route along a recommend you check tide and outdoor terraces now reflect The church was dug out in 1863 but disused railway line to tables ahead of a visit, Polzeath’s surfing credentials and the present day graveyard is still level Wenfordbridge, via so that you can also make the most of the sea views. with the roof on two sides. Poet Wadebridge and explore Merlin’s Cave We dined there one evening and laureate Sir John Betjeman, who lived Bodmin. on the beach below. judging by the fact every table was close by, wrote about the church and Largely traffic Just outside taken the work has been a great was buried there in 1984. free and virtually Tintagel is another success. We certainly had no At the far end of the Daymer Bay is level, it’s one of mysterious place, St complaints about the food or service. the Camel Estuary, and when the tide the most popular Nectan’s Glen. The Blue Flag beach is just a is out you can follow the beach family trails in the A 30-minute walk three-minute walk away, and at low around into Rock. UK, and the views through ancient tide it is huge. Having spent the day Known locally as ‘‘Eton-on-Sea’’, it is across the estuary are woodland besides the there on a previous trip to Cornwall, reputed to be home to more a joy to behold. The Camerons are babbling River Trevillet in finer weather, we know how great it millionaires than anywhere else in Also close to Polzeath is fans of Polzeath brings you to a truly is for children. Cornwall, and has the highest the harbour of Port Isaac, spectacular 60m waterfall Gently shelving, and with seasonal proportion of second homes in the which doubles as Portwenn in the which you can get up close to. lifeguard cover, the beach is perfect county. long-running TV series Doc Martin, The foaming waters cascade for paddling or learning how to ride The once-buried Businessman Mohamed Al-Fayed starring Martin Clunes. through a hole punched into the waves, and in Polzeath there are St Enodoc Church and singer Jay Kay have been known And no holiday to this part of the basin wall and into a pool that’s plenty of opportunities to do just that. to arrive by helicopter. David world would be complete without a shallow and flat enough for you to Former PM David Cameron and Cameron goes for his favourite beer, visit to the evocative Tintagel Castle, wade through (wellies are provided). wife Samantha are fans of the surf Doom Bar, which is brewed there. especially now it has a new £4 million Said to be one of the UK’s most here. The beer is named after a sandbar footbridge. spiritual sites, ribbons hang from After the wind and rain relented, at the mouth of the River Camel The 58m high steel bridge – two trees in memory of loved ones and we followed the South West Coast which has claimed many vessels. cantilevers with a 4cm gap in the fallen trees are covered in coins Path to Daymer Bay, which offers Indeed, the lone bell at St Enodoc’s middle – links the mainland part of inserted by people making wishes. rock pools and another huge swathe comes from one of its victims. the medieval castle with its island We wished for the rain to stop and, of sand. The waters here are unusually calm dwellings. miraculously, it came true. That was A three-minute walk from the and clear, making it great for kids, and It recreates the original passage 10p well spent. NEED TO KNOW ■ ST Austell Brewery’s collection of pubs, inns and hotels are situated in some of the most stunning and character filled loca- tions in the West Country. The Oyster- catcher has nine dog friendly apartments and one cottage, most with sea views. Two-night self-catering stays start from £90, with seven-night stays starting from £290. There are a couple of convenience stores in the village for your supplies. For A gorgeous view from more information, visit westcountryinns. The Oystercatcher pub co.uk or call 0345 2411133..
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