A Norman Lear Center Conference Annenberg Auditorium USC Annenberg School for Communication January 29, 2005 2 THE NORMAN LEAR CENTER Ready to Share: Fashion & the Ownership of Creativity Ready to Share: Fashion & the Ownership of Creativity On January 29, 2005, The Norman Lear Center held a landmark event on fashion and the ownership of creativity. Ready to Share explored the fashion industry's enthusiastic embrace of sampling, appropriation and borrowed inspiration, core components of every creative process. Presented by the Lear Center's Creativity, Commerce & Culture project, and sponsored by The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising/FIDM, this groundbreaking conference featured provocative trend forecasts, sleek fashion shows and an eclectic mix of experts from fashion, music, TV and film. Discussion sessions covered fashion and creativity; intellectual property law; fashion and entertainment; and the future of sharing. Participants Cate Adair, Costume Kevin Jones, Curator, The Laurie Racine, Senior Fellow, Designer for Desperate Fashion Institute of Design & The Norman Lear Center; Housewives (ABC) Merchandising Museum President, Center for the Public Domain Rose Apodaca, West Coast Martin Kaplan, Director, The Bureau Chief, Women's Wear Norman Lear Center; Sheryl Lee Ralph, Actress, Daily Associate Dean, USC singer, director, producer and Annenberg School for designer David Bollier, Senior Fellow, Communication The Norman Lear Center; Cameron Silver, President, Author, Brand Name Bullies Rick Karr, Television Decades, Inc., Los Angeles correspondent and writer and London; Creative John Seely Brown, Former Consultant, Azzaro, Paris Chief Scientist, Xerox Michael Patrick King, Corporation Executive Producer, Sex and Rani Singh, President, Harry the City (HBO) Smith Archives; Senior Barbara Bundy, Vice Research Associate, Getty President, Education, The Norman Lear, Television and Research Institute Fashion Institute of Design & film producer Merchandising/FIDM Jonathan Taplin, Television Booth Moore, Fashion Critic, and film producer; USC T Bone Burnett, Musician Los Angeles Times Annenberg Professor and producer Danger Mouse, Creator of Guy Trebay, Reporter, The Ted Cohen, Senior VP, the Grey Album New York Times Digital Development & Distribution, EMI Music Rich Nichols, Producer of Siva Vaidhyanathan, The Roots Professor of Culture and Tom Ford, Former Creative Communication at New York Director for Gucci and Yves Sam Phillips, Grammy- University; Author, Copyright Saint Laurent nominated singer and and Copywrongs songwriter Kevan Hall, Designer, Kevan David Wolfe, Creative Hall Couture; Former Design Director, The Doneger Group and Creative Director for Halston 3 THE NORMAN LEAR CENTER Ready to Share: Fashion & the Ownership of Creativity The Norman Lear Center Creativity, Commerce & Culture Founded in January 2000, The Norman Lear When art is created for commercial Center is a multidisciplinary research and purposes, who owns it? Once it's in the public policy center exploring implications of hands of consumers, what rights do they the convergence of entertainment, commerce have to change it? Headed by Lear Center and society. On campus, from its base in the senior fellows David Bollier and Laurie USC Annenberg School for Communication, Racine, Creativity, Commerce & Culture the Lear Center builds bridges between explores the new digital environment and schools and disciplines whose faculty study the impact of intellectual property rights on aspects of entertainment, media and culture. innovation and creativity. Beyond campus, it bridges the gap between the entertainment industry and academia, and between them and the public. Through scholarship and research; through its fellows, conferences, public events and publications; and in its attempts to illuminate and repair the world, the Lear Center works to be at the forefront of discussion and practice in the field. The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising/FIDM The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising/FIDM is an internationally recognized college that prepares students for leadership in the global industries of Fashion, Visual Arts, Interior Design and Entertainment. As an accredited institution granting Associate of Arts degrees and providing Advanced Study programs in 14 industry-specific majors, FIDM has equipped more than 30,000 students over the las t 30 years to become skilled professionals. FIDM is headquartered in a state- of-the-art campus in downtown Los Angeles, with additional campuses in Orange County, San Diego and San Francisco. The FIDM Museum houses one of the nation's finest costume collections dating from the 18th century, as well as ethnic costumes and selections from top fashion designers. 4 THE NORMAN LEAR CENTER Ready to Share: Fashion & the Ownership of Creativity T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S Panelist Biographies Pg 5 Welcome Pg 20 Martin Kaplan Introduction and Keynote – Ready to Share, Ready to Wear . Ready or Not! Pg 22 Martin Kaplan, David Bollier, David Wolfe Session I – The Ecology of Creativity in Fashion Pg 37 Norman Lear, Laurie Racine, Tom Ford, Guy Trebay Session II – Handing Down the Song: Music, Ownership & the Creative Process Pg 57 Jonathan Taplin, T Bone Burnett, Danger Mouse, Richard Nichols, Sam Phillips, Rani Singh Presentation – Fashioning the Future From the Past Pg 78 Barbara Bundy, Kevan Hall, Kevin Jones, L.A. Models Session III – The Business of Creativity Pg 97 Martin Kaplan, Cate Adair, Ted Cohen, Michael Patrick King, Norman Lear, Booth Moore, Sheryl Lee Ralph Presentation – Chanel or Fauxnel? The Chanel Jacket . Unraveled Pg 124 Barbara Bundy, Cameron Silver, Norman Lear, L.A. Models Session IV – The Future of Sharing: Content and Creativity in the Digital Age Pg 136 Rick Karr, John Seely Brown, Ted Cohen, Jonathan Taplin, Siva Vaidhyanathan Presentation – Out on Top: The T-shirt, From Fashion Essential to Revolutionary Icon Pg 163 Barbara Bundy, Rose Apodaca Closing Pg 171 Martin Kaplan, David Bollier Ready to Share event photos: Cherie Steinberg Cote 5 THE NORMAN LEAR CENTER Ready to Share: Fashion & the Ownership of Creativity P A N E L I S T B I O G R A P H I E S CATE ADAIR Catherine Adair was born in England, spent her primary education in Switzerland, and then returned to the UK where she earned her degree in Set & Costume Design from the University of Nottingham. After a series of apprenticeships in the London theater, Adair immigrated to the United States where she initially worked as a costume designer in East Coast theater productions. Her credits there include The Kennedy Center, Washington Ballet, Onley Theater Company, The Studio and Wolf Trap. Adair moved to Los Angeles, joined the West Coast Costume Designers Guild and started her film and television career. Adair credits include The 70s mini-series for NBC; The District for CBS; the teen film I Know What You Did Last Summer and Dreamworks' Win a Date with Tad Hamilton. Currently Adair is the costume designer for the ABC hit series Desperate Housewives. ROSE APODACA As the West Coast Bureau Chief for Women's Wear Daily (WWD) and a contributor to W, Rose Apodaca and her team cover the fashion and beauty industries in a region reaching from Seattle to Las Vegas to San Diego, as well as report on the happenings in Hollywood and the culture at large. Apodaca also is instrumental in the many events and projects tied to WWD and the fashion business in Los Angeles, including the establishment of LA Fashion Week, and has long been a champion of the local design community. Before joining Fairchild Publications in June 2000, Apodaca covered fashion and both popular and counter culture for over a decade for the Los Angeles Times, USA Today, Sportswear International, Detour, Paper and others. At the Los Angeles Times, where she began reporting daily on local city politics and social issues including gangs, she shifted to weekly columns on fashion, nightlife and youth culture. As Fashion Editor at Action Sports Retailer (ASR), she developed and helmed the annual Top 10 list, naming and writing about the most innovative brands in the action sports market for the trade magazine and moderating a panel at its expo. The Southern California lifer has specialized in street wear, pop culture and action sports arenas, and created and taught college courses on street style. A low-brow and contemporary art fan, she serves as an advisory board member at the Grand Central Art Center in Santa Ana. She lives in Los Angeles and is active in the Hollywood nightlife revival as a partner in Vine, Beauty Bar and Star Shoes. DAVID BOLLIER David Bollier is a Senior Fellow at The Norman Lear Center and Co-founder of Public Knowledge, an advocacy group dedicated to defending the commons of the Internet, science and culture. Since 1984, he has been a collaborator with television and film producer Norman Lear on a wide variety of projects. Bollier also works as an independent strategist and journalist specializing in issues of progressive public policy, digital media and democratic culture. 6 THE NORMAN LEAR CENTER Ready to Share: Fashion & the Ownership of Creativity Bollier's recent work has focused on developing a new vocabulary for reclaiming "the commons." The commons refers to the diverse array of publicly owned assets, gift-economies and natural systems that are available to everyone as a civic or human right. Bollier's critique of the commons is set forth in his 2002 book, Silent Theft: The Private Plunder of Our Common Wealth (Routledge), and in a number of essays and reports. He has developed the notion of the information commons as a new paradigm for understanding the public interest in the digital, networked environment. His latest book related to the subject is Brand Name Bullies: The Quest to Own and Control Culture (Wiley, 2004). Bollier consults with a number of nonprofit organizations and foundations, and has served as a rapporteur for the Aspen Institute's Communications and Society Program for many years. He is the author of six books that explore such subjects as social innovation in American business, the civilizing effects of health and safety regulation and the legal aftermath of the Hartford circus fire of 1944.