Issue 112 June - July 2019 FREE please take one the Oxford Drinker

The free newsletter of the Oxford and White Horse Branches of CAMRA www.oxford.camra.org.uk www.whitehorsecamra.org.uk June - July 2019 112 112 June - July 2019

FRONT COVER PICTURE : The Duke of Wellington, Southampton, by Nick Clements Welcome ….. to a summer in the pub I CHOSE FINE days recently to visit you want to appeal to them you two pubs where, as ever, it was need a wide range of drinks good to see people outside (including craft kegs and gin), enjoying beer in the garden. But informal but innovative food, you couldn’t have done this and events and music. Dodo even a few weeks ago, as both Pub Company seems to have the Up in Arms in Oxford, and got it right, and the success of The Oxford Drinker is the newsletter Crown in South Moreton (see the Rusty Bicycle and Rickety of the Oxford and White Horse Pub News), had been closed for Press in Oxford bodes well for branches of CAMRA, the Campaign several years and had just re- the Up in Arms, whether you for Real Ale. opened. like the new name or not. 5000 copies are distributed free of charge to pubs across the two CAMRA has just launched a But what about the ladies? branches’ area, including Oxford, national campaign called While many bar staff and Abingdon, Witney, Faringdon, Summer of Pub to get people managers are female, a report Eynsham, Kidlington, Bampton, down to their local, especially noted by CAMRA indicates that Wheatley and Wantage and most of women are put off drinking real the villages in between. with events such as the Women’s World Cup (6 June - 6 ale by male attitudes. The PDF downloads of past issues are July), Cricket World Cup (30 Beeragender report by Dea available at the Oxford CAMRA May - 14 July) and Beer Day Latis (www.dealatis.org.uk) – website, www.oxford.camra.org.uk . Britain (15 June) – see “bringing beer to women”, Editorial team: www.camra.org.uk/ named after the Celtic god of summerofpub beer and water – makes Editor: Dave Richardson interesting reading. [email protected] So it’s worth raising a glass or

Advertising: Pete Flynn and Tony two to the renaissance of pubs We would very much welcome Goulding hereabouts, with Up in Arms more female involvement in our [email protected] (formerly the Somerset) branch, and also more young Tony: 07588 181313 restored by a local pub people (18-30). We now have a Pete: 07582 168082 young members’ contact, David company, and the Crown Layout/Design: Matt Bullock becoming the county’s ninth Lydiat, who can be reached at

Valuable contributions have been community buy-out. This follows [email protected] on from three new pubs in received for this issue from Richard A decision will be taken this Queralt, Neil Crook, Michael Corlett, Oxford (Bicycle Shed in Paul Silcock, Nick Clements, Dennis Summertown, the Plough in summer on whether to have a Brown, Tony Goulding, Pete Flynn, Cornmarket and Teardrop bar in gin and possibly other local drinks bar at this year’s Oxford and Lisa Neale. the Covered Market), with the Beer and Cider Festival, and as Please send contributions to the long-closed Hollybush in West editor at the above email address. Oxford due to re-open in July. there has already been some interest, I invite local suppliers The renaissance locally, after Pub news can be sent to to get in touch. This could pub-pub [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk many years of closures, is led pub [email protected] attract more ladies and younger by the re-opening of traditional The views expressed in this people or get them to stay publication are those of the individual pubs by people with the vision to be different. longer, while taking nothing contributors and not necessarily away from our great range of those of Oxford or White Horse Branches of CAMRA, or of CAMRA While accepting that the real ale and cider. national trend is still closures – Limited. As ever, your news, views and increases in business rates Oxford Printed by OxUniPrint contributions to the being the latest threat – it’s Drinker www.oxuniprint.co.uk worth considering who exactly are welcome – just drop

are any pub’s core customers. me a line. © Copyright Oxford CAMRA 2019 DAVE RICHARDSON Clearly there are many different types, but fewer young people [email protected] drink alcohol than before and if June - July 2019 112

RIGHT : The Angel on the Bridge, and the Three Tuns BELOW : The Old Bell

Hooray for Henley

Dave Richardson YOU WON’T GO far in Henley-on- for us than a bus trip from discovers the drinking Thames without coming across Oxford of similar length. the name of Brakspear, and that delights of this in a sense could be a problem. We set out to visit 12 of the 14 riverside town Although the famous brewery, pubs listed in Whatpub, which established in 1711, closed also lists a few clubs or hotel down in 2002, the Brakspear bars, though we wouldn’t have Pub Company continued and a drink in each. Trains, unlike still runs most of Henley’s buses, at least have toilets – but hostelries, among 130 around even so! southern England. First stop, and first Brakspear Brakspear Bitter might still be pub, was the Anchor , close to widely available, but this has the station. Brakspear’s Oxford been brewed at Wychwood in Gold (also produced in Witney) Witney (home of Hobgoblin) and Boondoggle, from since 2006 using the original Marston’s-owned Ringwood, equipment and recipe, although were the fayre here. The Oxford many claim it doesn’t taste like Gold is on permanently while it used to. Muddying the waters the “guest” beer is drawn from yet further, the Brakspear Pub the Marston’s range, and a half Company opened a four-barrel of Gold was a gentle plant, called Bell Street introduction to an afternoon and Brewery, at the Bull pub in evening’s crawl. Henley in 2013. The Anchor is a thoroughly Wychwood brewery is of course “locals” pub spread over three now part of the Marston’s rooms, one laid out as a empire, meaning that most restaurant, and with a large Brakspear pubs concentrate on patio garden. A wood burner, in-house beers. Whether this and wooden or stone-flagged would limit choice was foremost floors added to the cosy feel, in my mind as I joined Tony and an inventive menu includes Goulding to travel to Henley by rare dishes such as rabbit. train, this being a better option Landlord Jeremy Buckler

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previously ran the Angel , and occupiers most of the pub, but refurb and has a very large this is where we went next. in the bar my attention was dining area. It’s clearly a very caught by a poster advertising a up-market pub with prices to The Angel on the Bridge , to walking tour to discover match, but Henley is a mainly give it the full name, is the only Henley’s brewing heritage, up-market town. riverside pub in Henley and departing at 11am on the last makes the most of its location Sunday of the month. The £10 Returning to the town centre we with a large patio which is very cost includes “a pint of Henley- now stopped at Wetherspoon’s busy on sunny days, being at brewed ale”, presumably at the outlet in Henley, the Catherine the town end of the old bridge Bull . Would I have to wait until Wheel , where at least we’d be which is now something of a getting there to try it? able to try some different beers. traffic bottleneck. Our old This is an enormous pub with friends Boondoggle and Oxford Not so, as we now ventured two very long bars at either Gold were again in evidence, across the bridge to the Little side, but unlike many in the these being the regulars, while Angel , a mere five-minute walk chain it was a pub before a third, also from Jennings, was away although officially in the Wetherspoon took over, and it my choice – Cocker Hoop, from village of Remenham, in is also a hotel. It looks to be a Marston’s-owned Jennings in Berkshire. Yes, it was our third 19th century building if not Cumbria. Brakspear pub out of three so older, but as no-one seemed to far, but it did have a “genuine” know and Whatpub wasn’t We learned that the Angel Brakspear available in the form forthcoming on the subject, we dates from the 18th century, of Special, brewed at the Bull . settled down to enjoy our with the cellar being part of the This 4.3% amber bitter slipped drinks. original bridge’s foundations. A down very well and I was glad print on the wall, reproduced to see (and taste) that tradition The guest beers available on from Punch magazine in 1922, is being kept alive in Henley. this occasion were Twickenham proclaims: “The Angel, Henley- Also available were Brakspear brewery’s Honey Dark, a on-Thames, for several hundred Bitter, Oxford Gold and – this delicious mild at 4.8%; Brains’ years the haunt of Thames being Six Nations Rugby time – SA and Shepherd Neame’s boatmen and fishermen”. I Wychwood’s special for that Spitfire – a limited choice expect there are plenty of event, Dirty Tackle. compared to most Wetherspoon boating visitors today, but not pubs, but of course the fishermen, I suspect. You couldn’t really describe the standard fayre of Greene King Little Angel as little, as it has IPA and Abbot, and Sharp’s A large open-plan dining area recently re-opened after a Doom Bar, were also available.

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The Honey Dark was excellent, The Old Bell , on the same potential. and including our CAMRA street, claims to be the oldest discount vouchers two pints building in Henley (1325) but And the name? It turns out this cost only £3.98, less than the has been much altered inside, was once Henley’s police cost of one pint of almost and looks rather basic. We station, with the front desk now anything else at the town’s decided against having a drink replaced by the bar. Three cells other pubs. as only Brakspear Bitter was remain and are now available and it was empty, but incorporated into the pub – But onwards we pressed, to the apparently it’s a late night without doors and locks, of Bull on Bell Street and, venue open some nights until course! After our visit I learned hopefully, another beer from the 3am. That must disturb the that it has now been re-branded micro-brewery which can be ghosts! as Hof’s Bar and Dining with a seen at the very rear of this very international menu, and large pub, beyond a dining area We didn’t have any luck at the although still owned by used for functions. It wasn’t to Queen Victoria either, finding Brakspear, it now serves a be, though, as often with micro- this Enterprise-owned property wider range of bars. Another breweries based in pubs. closed but with a Rebellion one to re-visit? Brakspear Bitter and Oxford (Marlow Brewery) sign hinting at Gold were the only choices, and happier times. According to By this time we really wanted a while Brakspear Special is often Fleurets it has been sold change, but gamely we walked on, seasonal beers are also subject to contract, but being a little further up a hill to yet produced in small batches with described as “an excellent another Brakspear pub, the brewing any beer happening development opportunity”, will it Row Barge , which was possibly only once a week. remain a pub? my favourite of them all. Only Brakspear Bitter and Oxford The Bull was surprisingly busy Fortunately the Station House Gold awaited us, but it was for 5.30pm on a Tuesday in was opposite, and being at the worth a short hike to enjoy the March, but come later in the far end of the town from the old pub sign (with Brakspear week if you want to try its own railway I had to wonder why this bee), very friendly traditional brews. It’s a very old hostelry was? All three hand-pumps atmosphere and somewhat with lots of exposed beams, and were badged to dispense eclectic surroundings, ranging while mainly laid out for dining, Brakspear Bitter, so once again from exposed beams to a suit of still feels like a pub unlike the that had to do. This is a very armour. It has a garden too and Little Angel . large pub with new tenants due letting rooms, and dates from to arrive, and clearly had the 16th century.

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LEFT TO RIGHT : The sign of the Row Barge; The Argyll; The Catherine Wheel; the original brewery remembered in this sign, also at the Row Barge

Not many people from the very atmospheric, and a large (White Horse), but on display Oxford/Abingdon area would go dining room at the rear. It’s were pump clips from scores of in a Greene King pub looking another pub I’d take a second breweries near and far with for different beers, but that was look at, but a shame the beers Windsor & Eton, Hog’s Back what sent us into the Argyll , were so samey. and Cotleigh catching the eye. GK’s only owned outlet in Henley. Our hopes were raised But there was no need to This is a free house which has by a beer called Midsomer despair, as it was now time to been in the GBG for around 20 Murders, but were told this is re- gird up our loins for a 15-minute years, a tribute to Graham and badged Hardy’s and Hanson’s walk out of town to Henley’s Celia’s hard work. It’s a proper from the GK range, available sole entry in the Good Beer pub with darts, cribbage, a large alongside the usual suspects of Guide , the Bird in Hand on garden and a very community- IPA, Abbot, Old Speckled Hen Greys Road. And it was focused atmosphere, but it’s not and London Glory. certainly worth the walk if only one you’d find by accident. Be to congratulate Graham and sure to make the short trip out It appears that Henley features Celia Steward on their of town when visiting Henley, as quite a bit in the Midsomer achievement of clocking up 25 you never know what you’ll be Murders TV series, with the pub years here – and then of course drinking at the Bird in Hand but featuring in an episode called there were different beers. can count on the quality. Last Year’s Model in 2006. It’s a claim to fame, I suppose, and Here at last was variety, We returned to the station the pub was very friendly although not on the scale we reflecting on another interesting although we didn’t heed the might expect to find in day. My favourite beer (and of pump clip advice to “try before somewhere of similar size such course cheapest) was the you buy/die”! as Abingdon or Wantage. The Honey Dark at Wetherspoon’s locals clearly like their Catherine Wheel , and my Instead we moved on to the Brakspear Bitter as this is a favourite pub was the Bird in Three Tuns , also on Market permanent beer, as is Fuller’s Hand . But eight of the 11 pubs Place, for our last date with London Pride. The Banks’s Mild we visited were run by Brakspear Bitter although (actually rather amber in colour Brakspear, and while that Ringwood’s 49er was also rather than brown) was inevitably limits choice due to available and this is what I tried. unexpected, and very tasty. The the Marston’s tie, it at least This is a very old pub with real flag for independent breweries proves the enduring appeal of atmosphere, and a cosy bar at was being flown by Rebellion Brakspear Bitter. the front with real fire which was IPA (Marlow) and Stable Genius

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8 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019 Cheers to Oxford Beer Week Oxford Beer Week (4-12 May) course the highlight and we’re all can be proud of. In my day to was judged a great success by very happy with the number of day job at NFU Mutual I have the Oxford Brewers Alliance, breweries participating, quality the pleasure of advising local which took the plunge this year and range of the beer on show, food and drink companies in the to organise a major one-day the opportunity to meet brewers region, and it’s been a real event in addition to the “meet and brewery owners, the food pleasure to work with breweries the brewer” sessions in pubs options, the music and of and be advised about the best and brewery open days that course the wonderful setting of beers in town. It’s been have featured in the last two TOAD distillery. The events incredibly insightful becoming a years. over the rest of Oxford Beer dedicated Oxford Beer Week Week were well attended also, committee member for this The “Big Event” on Saturday 4 and attendances were well up year, and I plan to be for many May was held at TOAD (The from 2018. years to come. Oxford Artisan Distillery) in Headington, where participants “The challenge for 2020 is to “We feel this year has done (entry cost £10) were able to improve further,” added Rod. everything we set out to achieve see how gin is made locally as “The intention of Oxford Beer by raising awareness of the well as sampling a large Week is not to make huge breweries in the alliance, putting number of beers, food and live profits, but purely to break even Oxford on the map as a beer entertainment. which we did. We want to city, and increasing the number increase the number of of people drinking locally Most alliance members set up attendees from 650 to over brewed beer. stalls including Costwold, Hook 1,000 and we’ve already started Norton, Little Ox/Oxbrew, Loose our planning process, with “Look out for Oxford Beer Week Cannon, Shotover, Turpin, XT, fantastic ideas already in the in 2020 as it will be even bigger White Horse and Wychwood. bag for next year.” and better, with people coming Although it was an open air from far and wide to experience event, a marquee was provided Christian Aldridge, sales what it has to offer.” which kept people out of the executive at food and drink rather chilly wind. insurer NFU Mutual and co- An Oxford Local Beer Map was organiser of Oxford Beer Week also produced, listing over 30 Alliance spokesman Rod event, said: “It has been a huge venues where local beer could Ireland said: “The 2019 Oxford success and is something that be found. Beer Week was a significant step towards the long-term goal of establishing a reputation for Oxfordshire brewers, similar to that of other well-known beer cities such as Norwich, Sheffield and Bristol.

“Feedback from organisers, brewers and members of the public on this year’s celebration has been consistently positive, and the associated media exposure invaluable. The ‘Big Event’ (pictured right) was of

the Oxford Drinker 9 June - July 2019 112 A day in the life of the Red Lion, Northmoor Ever wondered what it’s like to run a community-owned pub? Landlady Lisa Neale describes a typical Saturday 6.30am – first and very Abbott has cleaned and set up 6pm – evening staff arrive, and important job of the morning is the bar and restaurant from first booking is here. Off we go turning on the coffee machine breakfast. Menus need to be again! followed by letting the chickens changed and printed and then out. we’re ready to go for our first 9pm – don’t forget to lock the booking at 12 noon. chickens up! 7am – hit the kitchen and start preparing for Breakfast Club 12-3pm – usually a crazy lunch 9.30pm – always a busy dinner who are due in at 8am: 20 service, especially if the sun is service but this is when the pub portions of proper English shining. The Red Lion is is at full capacity, everyone is breakfast (hoping there’s a few popular with walkers, families, happily eating or finishing off sausages going spare at the and of course our very loyal their wine, relaxing with full end!) regulars who come in like bellies, laughter coming from clockwork for their Saturday the bar, a million glasses to 9am – we get the first of our afternoon pint or two and catch polish but one of my favourite deliveries, as prepping food for up with their mates. moments to soak up the the rest of the weekend atmosphere and feel satisfied continues. Butchering meat, 3pm – it all starts to wind down, that we’ve made it through peeling a sack of potatoes for the last few tables finishing off another Saturday! mash and chips – cut, boil, cool, their desserts and coffees, and blanch. Making bread – weigh, paying their bills. It now looks 10.10pm – (on the dot!) our mix, knead, prove, weigh, like we’ve been hit by a tornado three Saturday night regulars knead, prove, score, bake, cool so a major tidy-up is in order. arrive; we love them and it (a lengthy process!) Getting a Washing glasses, polishing makes a great end to the stock pan on, washing salads, cutlery, clearing tables, evening to wind down and have churning ice creams, etc etc… sweeping the floors, re-stocking a bit of a laugh and weekly the fridges and starting to get catch-up. Ian and Chris are 10am – Kids’ Gardening Club set up for the evening service. packing up and scrubbing down begins, as Northmoor’s kids The kitchen porter is working in the kitchen, the last of the descend to get stuck into their like a trooper to get everything washing up is going through the veggie growing. Planting out washed up and put away, and machine, and Sunday veg seeds that have been growing Ian and Chris are clearing down needs to be prepped for the in pots, putting in new rows of their sections and sweeping up. morning. Front of house team root vegetables, a bit of are also clearing down, re- weeding followed by a well- Time for a break – coffee top up stocking the fridges, cleaning deserved juice and biscuit break and quick sandwich! the coffee machine – and still and then a final water and tidy polishing glasses. up. All finished by 12 just in time 5pm – Ian and Chris are back in for our lunchtime service to the kitchen, finishing smaller 11.30pm – saying cheerio to the begin. jobs off from the morning and last of our customers, wishing setting up for evening service. them a safe journey home and 11.30am – My husband Ian and The bar is usually full of finally, after a busy day, we can Chris Wagstaff start setting up drinkers by now and menus all sit down and enjoy a nice their cooking stations for need refreshing for the evening. refreshing pint and think about lunchtime service, while Simon what we’ll have for our dinner!

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Pub News From Oxford CAMRA, White Horse CAMRA and beyond

Cassington providing a space for private Oxford parties, gatherings, and special Chequers event nights such as wine Grapes The pub is now under the tastings and curry nights,” said The George Street pub re- ownership of first-time landlords Babu. “There is plenty of work opened in late April after the Babu and Santok Odedra, a still to be done, but we are lease was taken over by West husband and wife team who left committed and dedicated to Berkshire Brewery, to become their home town of Leicester in making the Chequers a its first “solo” pub. Previously search of a new business and success.” operated by City Pub Company life challenge and before that Bath Ales Coleshill (which renamed it Beerd), the They found the Chequers for Grapes is continuing its policy sale and jumped at the Radnor Arms of having a wide range of cask opportunity, but found a pub in Hopes are high that the pub, and craft keg beers with WBB dire need of change with owned by the National Trust ales taking pride of place, but decaying beer lines, poorly and Grade II-listed, will re-open also several guests. On its maintained equipment and this summer. official launch night it was appliances, apathetic staff, and offering Loose Cannon’s a dissatisfied local customer Faringdon Abingdon Bridge and two beers base. Since taking over, they from Amwell Springs brewery at have partnered with Greene Bell Hotel Cholsey, along with a range of King (although still a free Formerly owned by Wadworth, WBB products. house) to modernise the pub’s this 17th century, Grade II-listed beer infrastructure. Currently, coaching inn has become the The £70,000 revamp included Old Speckled Hen is the only latest pub run by the team who restoration of the alcoves real ale available, but there are operate the Jolly Postboys in opposite the bar that give this plans to expand this selection in Oxford and the Red Lion in Victorian pub much of its the near future. Eynsham. It had become run character. The previous pizza down and required significant menu has been abandoned in By adding their authentic Indian investment, but is now up and favour of some innovative twist to the menu, they offer a running again with Wadworth cuisine including sharing balance between classic pub continuing to supply the beers platters appealing to both meat food and home-style Indian with guests including Purity’s eaters and vegans. Manageress cuisine, native to the Gujarat Longhorn. Romy Hewitt, 25, comes from region of western India. It also Wallingford. has eight guest bedrooms. Longcot Although it is very small “Since taking over we have King and Queen compared to some city centre attempted to make the pub a The pub has re-opened, with pubs, re-opening of the Grapes vibrant and active member of four cask ales including two enlivens the George Street the Cassington community by supplied by Marston’s. scene. Pint Shop, a few doors

12 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019 down, closed abruptly in history traceable back to the Company, which runs the Rusty February, although it was more 13th century, is to close for a Bicycle in East Oxford and of a craft keg and gin venue. revamp some time this year as Rickety Press in Jericho, plus a Greene King’s Wig and Pen owner Lincoln College needs to pub in Cheltenham. offers a good range of real ales, revamp the student including guests, with CAMRA accommodation on the upper Unlike its other Oxford pubs, Up discount. Wetherspoon’s Four floors. The pub and restaurant, in Arms is not tied to Arkell’s Candles is at the bottom end of whose beers are supplied by although an Arkell’s cask ale is the street. Marston’s, will also get a stocked in recognition of the revamp. ongoing relationship. On a Hollybush Tuesday afternoon in late May – The Osney Island pub is set to Port Mahon when about 30 people were re-open in early July under the This St Clement’s pub owned enjoying drinks or coffee – the management of Charles Wells, by Greene King has had a beers were Arkell’s Hoperation adopting the same Pizza, Pots major revamp and re-opened as IPA; Loose Cannon’s Hop and Pints brand as its Oxford a live music venue, something Shots Part Deux (a copper 4% Blue pub in East Oxford. The that was much needed following ale); XT Animal’s Buzzard; and Hollybush closed in 2013 when the closure of other music the ubiquitous Sharp’s Doom Greene King pulled out, and its venues including the Cellar. It is Bar. Cotswold Cider Company’s new private owner sought to under the management of Yellow Hammer (6%) was also convert it into housing, but with Johnnie Fisher and Cassie Jane available on hand pump, along only one other pub in the area who run the Half Moon a couple with nine keg taps dispensing (the Punter) he failed to get of hundred yards away, while beers by Beavertown, Tap permission. Residents are music is being promoted by Social and others. concerned about late night Nelly Wimpenny who is well- opening, however, with the city known on the Oxford scene. At The Up in Arms is a large, red council due to make a decision other times it functions as a brick, former Halls and Banks’s on opening hours. traditional pub, including pub pub with capacity for about 300, food and beer garden. which was quickly reached on James Street Tavern opening day. Food follows the The Greene King pub, off Up in Arms same style as at the group’s Cowley Road, re-opened in May The former Somerset pub on other pubs, with Dodo Burgers, under the management of the Marston Road (below), closed Dodo Pizzas, breakfast (9am-12 same team that has for several years and due to be noon) and brunch. successfully built up the Old leased as an Islamic cultural Bookbinders in Jericho since centre by the private owner, re- It has many tables available for 2011. Manager is Josh Mullett- opened on 27 April under the dining, a coffee area run by Sadones and landlord the management of Dodo Pub specialist supplier Missing French chef Michel Sadones, who is introducing cuisine with a French street food theme.

The number of real ales has been reduced compared to a few years ago when it set out to become a real ale “destination pub”, but it still has a good range from GK and its guest list. The renovation included a badly needed redecoration, and improvements to the outside sitting areas.

Mitre The High Street pub/restaurant, the oldest in Oxford with a

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LEFT : The Sam Thomson (left) and Duncan Wilson-Macdonald at the Up in Arms

Landlady Charlotte Waite, who held Master Cellerman status while working for Fuller’s at the Ship Inn in Wokingham, has put real ale at the heart of her operation. Carlsberg has helped install the cellar so real ale it supplies, currently Fuller’s London Pride, will always be stocked. The two others available on a recent visit were Loose Cannon’s Recoil and Indigenous brewery’s Summer Solstice, with a fourth hand pump due to come on-stream. Bean, and an outside area with Bicycle, which is one of the Other beers waiting in the cellar tables, covered seating, table things we do for the community included Community Endeavour football and table tennis. It’s there. A few people didn’t IPA, the new beer produced hoped to have a drop-down understand the renaming, but exclusively for community- giant screen in future to show it’s to recognise the community owned pubs by Oxbrew, beers special events such as Six effort. They asked to get a pub from nearby Amwell Springs Nations Rugby in the garden. back and they’ve got a beautiful brewery, and Loddon’s space.” Hullabaloo. The pub had struggled for years prior to closure a few years ago, The pub’s logo is a microphone The pub is fairly large and some but locals mounted a concerted with the slogan, “For the of it is dedicated to dining, with Save Our Somerset campaign People”. They certainly seem to the chef having worked for as it was the last pub in the be voting with their feet, in Jamie’s Italian and Wildwood area, six others having closed. another positive story in the and promising “pub food with a When plans for the community renaissance of the Oxford pub Mediterranean twist”. The centre were brought forward scene. Crown’s restoration has those efforts were stepped up, involved many local people focusing on getting a pub Shrivenham giving their time and expertise company interested rather than for free – with their names a community buy-out. The Barrington Arms ambitious Dodo seems a The pub is having a beer natural fit, with its track record festival on 27-28 July, with eight of turning around ailing pubs, beers and live music all day. but there has been some resistance to the change of South Moreton name. Crown Assistant manager Sam Four years of closure and Thomson, who has moved with campaigning came to a head bartender Duncan Wilson- successful end on 4 May with Macdonald from the Rusty opening of Oxfordshire’s ninth Bicycle, said: “The first few community-owned pub, weeks have been brilliant with confirming the county as one of Marston Road very pleased to the hot-spots for people getting get a pub back. We may hold a together to save their local. street party as at the Rusty 14 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019

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had to leave with 24 hours’ notice. Everyone has pulled together and the share offer is still open, as this is only stage one of the project. This has been a triumph for the little people.”

The Crown was funded by charity the Plunkett Foundation, which runs the Government’s “More than a Pub” programme, on a like-for-like basis. Nearly £400,000 had to be raised by the society.

Local groups and societies are starting to meet at the pub, which has applied to become a polling station. Children are welcome and so are dogs, making it a destination to visit. Look for signs from Wallingford, or off the A4130 Wallingford to Didcot road. Charlotte Waite and Andrew Searle Wallingford recorded on a noticeboard was sold off by Wadworth to a inside. There is also a garden developer. The long battle to Royal Standard area. save it started with it being This is the new name of the listed as an Asset of Community Partridge, which had functioned Charlotte, who heard about the Value, and locals were able to as a restaurant for the last few search for a tenant as her sister object at a planning inquiry on a years but was originally a lives in the village, said: “I was technicality despite opposition traditional pub. It re-opened on filling in my application in front from solicitors hired by the 25 May as a sports bar and will of the TV when suddenly the developer. Over 130 serve real ale including Amwell pub’s story was on the screen, shareholders belong to the Springs, with plans to open a on BBC’s ‘The Day That South Moreton Community carvery. Changed Our Lives’ Benefit Society – more than the programme, which was surreal. number of houses in the village. Witney

“It’s very refreshing to run a free Committee member Andrew Eagle Tavern house after working for large Searle said: “This was a classic Following the retirement of long- breweries who don’t look after case of not appreciating what serving landlord Ian Payne, the their managers, as here I’ve got you have until it’s gone. The Hook Norton pub is now being free rein. Everything we buy, we Crown was literally the last run by Paul Spink and his sons try to buy local – such as meat meeting place in the village, as Tyler and Zac, who also run Fat from a butchers in Cholsey, we had already lost our shop, Lil’s bar and club further down eggs from two fields away, and village hall and even our Corn Street. of course local ales. It’s great to church. have the freedom of what I buy, Wootton and not be stuck with beers “Some portrayed the developers from the same brewery.” as villains, but Wadworth had Bystander run the pub down. Some of the The Greene King Hungry Horse The Crown was set to be tenants were OK but others pub s due to close for a major redeveloped as housing after it were not, and the last tenants refurbishment in June.

the Oxford Drinker 17 June - July 2019 112 South to Southampton

Southampton has 16 I DECIDED TO stick to pubs in the a regular appearance here and entries in the 2019 north of the city and calculated my first of the day was the that getting off in Shirley Road unfined Orbit from Dark Good Beer Guide, with and walking across would give Revolution, with a deep haze a mix of traditional me a head start compared to (as you might expect) and and contemporary, getting off in the centre and extremely tasty for its 3.2%. walking to my first destination, and a growing number the Bookshop Alehouse . Next stop on my trail was the of brew-houses and Guide Dog -- very much a micro-pubs. Three of My calculations were obviously traditional pub, and first faulty, because I had been impressions were of the kind of the participants beaten to it by a dozen of the well-run, no-nonsense describe pubs visited usual suspects who were establishment that promises a on our annual beer already in residence. This pub good pint. I wasn’t disappointed is a small conversion from a as the Flowerpots Bitter tasted festival helpers’ trip in second-hand bookshop and a every bit as good as I March. wall of shelves full of books remember from the last time I remains, with the other walls had it (at the brew-pub in taken up by adverts for Cheriton). On the musical events and walls here poster art. Unfined beers make

18 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019

are various articles relating to the history of Bevois Mount -- this area of Southampton -- as well as posters for upcoming music nights which are held in the “Doghouse”, the room at the back. This is small but cosy and, I imagine, an excellent place for the kind of small acoustic sets being advertised.

Walking further downhill I reached the Rockstone , a larger building on a triangular plot with seating outside at the front and on the inside, tables laid out around the central bar area -- the food offering being emphasised. The beer here was more expensive, the music louder, and my impression was that it caters to a younger crowd there is a narrow brasserie and 1400s wool was the single with posters advertising student gin bar which was closed on largest export from the town discounts. I had Hammerpot this occasion, but downstairs is and a wool house was built to Red Hunter here, which was a much larger and more store this right next to the nice enough, but didn’t stick in atmospheric cellar bar with quayside. the memory. booths around the side and high tables in the middle. There are This building now houses the I made my way up Rockstone eight hand-pumps, from which I Dancing Man brew pub and Road (a very pretty street) to chose Eight Arch Brewing’s restaurant, spread over two the large traffic island at the top, Square Logic, and also an floors, with brewing equipment and becoming slightly extensive bottled beer menu just visible behind the bar. Our disoriented I was grateful to run which, like a true Belgian bar, group, fresh off the coach, into a handful of familiar faces seemed to consist mainly of the caused them to run out of third who pointed me in the right impossibly strong and pint glasses as the 3 x 3 direction to the London Road ridiculously expensive. As the paddles seemed the best way Brewhouse . This is owned by name implies, blues music is to sample several of the the same City Pub Company as heavily featured although not tempting, wide range of beers our own St Aldates Tavern, exclusively. on offer. although with its own brewery visible behind the bar, it As usual, all of the I’m always keen to visit perhaps has more in common recommended pubs I visited anywhere on CAMRA’s National with the Cambridge Brewhouse, proved well worth the effort, but Heritage Pub list, so called in which some people will the Guide Dog is the one I wish next at the Red Lion on the remember from a previous I had spent an extra hour in, High Street. This is a helpers’ trip. I had LBH Best and the one I will be heading spectacular medieval hall Bitter here, which was very towards if I ever find myself in house, complete with wooden pleasant. The building felt huge the city in future. beams, grand fireplaces and and empty, and might only Michael Corlett suits of armour on really come alive with a large display. Unfortunately, the beer crowd. THE AREA I elected to start the range wasn’t quite as day in was the historical Old spectacular with Sharp’s Doom Skipping Wetherspoon’s Giddy Town, where first stop was a Bar or Greene King Yardbird on Bridge , I went on to Belgium popular local brewery bar, the offer, but I’m glad I didn’t miss and Blues . At ground level Dancing Man . Back in the this fascinating pub.

the Oxford Drinker 19 THE WIG & PEN & TURF TAVERN CENTRAL OXFORD’S PREMIER PUBS SUPPORTING LOCAL AND NATIONAL REAL ALES

YOU HAVEN’T BEEN TO OXFORD IF YOU HAVEN’T VISITED THESE TWO PUBS

CAMRA MEMBERS 10% DISCOUNT ON ALL REAL ALES APPLIES THE TURF TAVERN, BATH PLACE, OXFORD, OX1 3SU THE WIG & PEN, GEORGE STREET, OXFORD, OX1 2AU

20 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019

and tick off a few more of the recommended pubs. It was a brilliant day out, all-in-all, and somewhere I must come back to soon. Nick Clements

THIS WAS OUR first helpers’ trip to Southampton, but as our editor Dave Richardson is a frequent visitor, his recommended pubs were laid out on three separate maps. Our choice was the Shirley road area, where passing Wetherspoon’s Bright Water Inn , we entered our first micro-pub of the day, Overdraft .

A warm welcome awaited in this former bank, the huge vault at the rear serving as a cool room. From one of the city’s oldest been a pub since 1494, Open for three years, this pubs to one of its newest: two although I’m not really sure that sparse but comfortable bar is doors down was Crammed excuses them for labelling the very popular for Mexican street Inn . It was opened by local loos “maidens” and food with also the chance to businessman Matt Lucker in “knights”. It’s a Wadworth bring your own food from the October 2018 and is a small, house with the full range of many take-aways in the area. comfortable bar with three real beers from Devizes on offer. Twin record decks had a large ales, including two from Surrey- number of vinyl LPs with Dylan, based Crafty Brewing Next we walked westwards into Motown and Soul being the Company. Loxhill Biscuit, a the Maritime Quarter where on most popular. I had a tasty 3.8% golden ale, was one of the the pleasant, pedestrianised West Country cloudy cider, tastiest beers I had all day. Oxford Street, was Caskaway . This micro-pub is nautically Back by the docks on the River themed with ropes, flags and an Test we called at the Platform old lifebuoy taking pride of place Tavern, the original home of the on the wall. A spectacular beer Dancing Man brewery from list advertised 14 craft kegs, 2012 to 2015. It’s a good old- three cask conditioned ales on school pub with eclectic gravity and real ciders, all decorations, and hosts regular fetched from a rear corridor with live music in the evenings. It the pub having no bar was quiet and relaxed on this counter. With such a choice we Saturday afternoon with a stayed to try a couple here – choice of six beers, the somewhere that is well worth a delicious Dark Revolution visit. Velveteen Stout being my pick of the bunch. This area of Southampton had provided us with an eclectic Another historical pub nearby is range of pubs and bars to drink the Duke of Wellington on in and, overall, a great choice of Bugle Street. It stands out with beers. With a few hours left its timbered frontage and inside before our coach home, we it is full of character. This has managed to hike across the city

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22 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019

one of six ciders on tap. The pub, the Wellington , which beer range was a choice of six would be our food stop. On the cask and 19 kegs, a super bar were beers from Bath Ales, range. Wainwright, Harvey’s, Dark Star, Fuller’s, Taylor’s, our own A short stroll along Shirley Road Wychwood Hobgoblin, a tasty brought us to our second micro- Titanic Plum Porter and six cool pub, Clockwork, which has ciders. another great choice of beer, cider and gin. Five local cask One of Britain’s greatest ales were offered including a heroes, Wellington wouldn’t very tasty red ale from Fallen have had to journey as far as Acorn, and a pale Vibrant Belgium to drink superb beer Forest (from the New Forest) because a short walk down the called Summerlands. Seven road found another superb kegs and a couple of ciders community boozer, the were also on tap and again vinyl Waterloo , run by Hop Back is the medium for music. brewery. This 1920-built former snacks. At least five Hop Back Strong’s then Whitbread pub and two guest beers were on A 10-minute stroll found us at a was busy with conversation and the bar. superb back street community very good, cheap pub food and Back on Shirley Road, our third micro-pub was Witch’s Brew which had opened earlier than the usual 4pm for our visit. This really interesting former hippy, new age and witchcraft shop (then called Magik Earth) is very well run by Mary Thornton- Smith. The popular shop had operated for 13 years, but one night Mary made the decision to convert to a micro-pub. Five ever-changing casks, 16 ciders (dreamland!) and some interesting bottles and cans were all on offer, but no kegs.

Beers available here were Flowerpots’ Goodens Gold, Steamtown’s very tasty Steam Stout, Dark Star’s Reefer Pale and Stonehenge brewery’s Sign of Spring. What a way to finish….. Tony Goulding

PHOTOS: page 18: The Dancing Man Brewery; page 19: Bookshop Alehouse; page 21: Guide Dog; Red Lion; this page: The Witch’s Brew; and Tony serving himself at the Witch’s Brew with owner Mary Thornton-Smith

the Oxford Drinker 23 June - July 2019 112 Tony’s Travels

Tony Goulding visits A WANDER AROUND what is left of provide it, and on the night two parts of the city Jericho’s pubs will not and did Bookies Best (a GK badged not disappoint. Walking past beer), Robinsons’ Dizzy Blonde, delivering the Oxford what is still a splendid tiled St Austell Proper Job, Black Drinker - Jericho and building, once the Globe on Sheep’s Baa Baa, Timothy St Clement’s Cranham Street, a former Taylor Landlord and a very tasty Morrells pub stolen from the Hogs Back TEA were all community by a developer, available. does bring back memories of past drinking. Close by is Jericho can be a very well-to-do another former Morrells local area and it shows at the nearby now owned by Greene King, the Fuller’s-run Harcourt Old Bookbinders , a very well- Arms . It’s something of run and comfortable a rarity, a Fuller’s pub French-style dining with NO food. Fourteen destination. The tubs a week are Sadones family know dispensed of a what their customers require and

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super London Porter Clement’s would normally be Across the road the Port (seasonal), London Pride, too busy for myself but, in the Mahon is another community Seafarers and – as Dark Star is company of your editor, turned local run by GK which was very now owned by Fuller’s – out very pleasant. The Half busy so the beers were not Hophead and Revelation. It is Moon opens until late, being a sampled. Around the corner in very much a conversation and good conversation two-room Rectory Road is the Star , a free proper live music hub, although pub and a lively music venue house and a very pleasant it does seem quiet at times, and with no food. On the bar were experience. This real is very cosy and clean. Timothy Taylor Landlord, St community pub was busy again Austell Tribute, Old Speckled with many students enjoying Another very well-run food Hen and a GK house beer, boozing, conversation and pub destination pub is the Rickety Moonraker. games. The Star has been loyal Press, formerly the Radcliffe to XT brewery with XT-3 and its Arms . It’s owned by Arkell’s Almost next door is another 1,000th brew, the very hoppy brewery from Swindon, and good community local run by XT-M, available plus the Moonlight, Hoperation and 3B Young’s, the Angel and strangely named Black Sheep were being enjoyed by drinkers Greyhound . Conversation, pub Venus Mars. and foodies alike. Built in 1872 games, some food and boozing for the Northampton Brewery, it is the norm here. On the bar We then headed into the city passed to Morlands and then were Young’s Bitter and centre for a quick visit to the became a free house. Special, Yak from XT’s Animal Bear Inn , a super pub, range, St Austell Proper Job expensive but not to be missed, On Walton Street, the Victoria and Hook Norton’s Outside where Fuller’s beers plus is a Marston’s house serving Half, the guest beers having Shotover Scholar are always in Hobgoblin Gold and Marston’s increased. good form. Saddle Tank, named after a type of steam loco that was used around the brewery, with a Ringwood beer awaited. This is another Victorian local with a splendid gallery with ceiling mural, the best in town. Very tasty food is served, pies being a speciality.

Along Plantation Road is the Gardeners Arms , another splendid back street local built in 1830. Run by Morrells and briefly Greene King, it is now a free house with the very capable Paul Silcock having turned the pub over some 15 years into the city’s top vegetarian food destination. On the bar were Loddon’s Citra Quad, Marston’s Lancaster Bomber (I would drink it just for the name), a splendid Flying Monk Dark ale and a very tasty Little Ox Wipeout, which is gluten-free.

A Saturday evening around St

the Oxford Drinker 25 June - July 2019 112

Pete’s Pubs Branch chairman Pete OXFORD CITY CENTRE is a vibrant, drinkable ale. colourful and enjoyable place to Flynn discovers new be, especially if you are Apparently, an anonymous beginnings for some involved with the bourgeoning brewer likes to promote beer Oxford pubs beer scene. I recently reviewed through Teardrop offering a some pubs old and new and unique opportunity to try how these impact on beer something new. This nano-pub choice and the way we enjoy is a sight to behold with the Oxford scene whether it’s a products as diverse as cured nano- (i.e. very small) pub, a salamis, spirits, pickled eggs refurb or a completely new and sparkling white wine, not to venue. mention more than 15 beers including a bottled selection, The centuries-old Covered and tapped beers with a take- Market is one of the most away option. Most days highly diverse retail environments with personable Luciana is there to specialist shops catering for serve you, and it’s a fantastic tourists and denizens of way to get involved in the local Oxfordshire alike. One of my beer scene. I can guarantee favourite stops is the Teardrop that if I stop awhile it will not be Bar , open for about six months, long before I will meet fellow which is arguably the smallest beer enthusiasts. pub for miles around and the brainchild of Luciana and Just around the corner in busy Christian Gyuricza, founders of Cornmarket Street, formerly the Church Hanbrewery. backbone of Oxford’s shopping area prior to opening of the The day I called, and in the Westgate Centre, lies the absence of Luciana who was Plough at number 38, a brand busy brewing, writer and new pub and formerly an Austin journalist of all things beer Reed tailors’ outlet for over 80 Douglas Rudlin was behind the years. Interestingly, the building bar. There are no fewer than was an inn for nearly 300 years eight taps dispensing beer of all and bore the name the Plough styles and a further three cask prior closure in 1925. ales on display, although only one of the latter was available I was met by general manager on the morning I called. This Ross Phillips, formerly of was Secret Brewer Gold Nail, a recently closed Pint Shop , who golden, lightly hopped and very served me a pint of very tasty

26 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019

LEFT TO RIGHT : Amy Parkinson at The Grapes; Ross Phillips behind bar of Plough

XT Brewery’s Mioung, best the Town Arms in Wallingford. visit, included XT/Animal’s described as amber coloured Camel, White Horse’s Stable with a sweet malt fruitiness and This must have been a baptism Genius, Philsters’ Glass Blower, hoppy undertones. At 4.5% it of fire for someone so young, Siren Craft’s White Tips, and was very flavoursome. Ross yet she showed bags of Ramsbury Brewery’s IPA. The told me that the three experience. When asked by the White Rabbit always offers an fermenting vessels dubbed bartender to check whether a excellent choice of real ales; it’s Tom, Dick and Harry, clearly beer had dropped, she replied: almost like a beer connoisseur visible from the bar, each “Give it another 30 minutes”. I has handpicked the selection. contain £1,000 of beer and can was impressed by Amy and The cask ale range has a high take up to two hours to be reminded of a young Karen turnover rate of two days, and transferred from a vehicle Brady of Birmingham FC fame, with the lines cleaned regularly outside. Once in situ the beer with her can-do attitude and you know beer quality will be undergoes secondary infectious enthusiasm. consistently good. fermentation and, being kept under slight pressure, can last Seven hand-pumps to include I sat down with owner Philippa up to around 40 days thereby two guest beers were available, Farrow to enjoy a pint of extending shelf life without and I opted for Maggs delicious White Tips. She told affecting quality. In addition to Magnificent Mild from West me that the pub has acquired three cask conditioned XT ales Berkshire which is a previous some land which will enable it to there are also four taps which CAMRA award winning ale, and double seating capacity in a are to be increased to six. The firm favourite of many a beer garden area outside to offer a tapped beers available at the drinker. The pub offers a cosy café/pizzeria environment all Plough on the day I called, all and intimate atmosphere and year round, with huge umbrellas XT, included Oxford Lager, remains every bit a real pub and heated seats for winter Oxford IPA, Harry Porter and after its tasteful refurbishment. comfort. This is a real win Salamander from the Animal Early signs are good for the situation as TripAdvisor rates range. success of this go-to venue, the pub highly for pizzas. Siren and I hope the Grapes will see Craft Brewery is one of the best I didn’t have far to travel to my some stability after its badly in the UK in my opinion, and I next venue, the Grapes on handled rebranding as Beerd feel blessed that we have George Street, which recently several years ago. access to its cask ale locally. re-opened following transfer of lease to West Berkshire My next visit was to a worthy The Oxford pub scene is Brewery as its first independent CAMRA Good Beer Guide constantly changing for the pub. I was warmly welcomed by entrant, the White Rabbit , in better through innovative and youthful assistant manager Amy nearby Friars Entry. This is a creative ideas implemented by Parkinson, who at age 18 was firm favourite with our CAMRA talented people, who only ask one of Oxfordshire’s youngest branch as it now offers five ales that you support their vision. landladies as she pulled pints at on cask which, on my

the Oxford Drinker 27 June - July 2019 112 Brewery Focus: White Horse Pete Flynn and Neil THE HALF YEARLY Wetherspoon’s 2004 on a site in Stanford-in-the coach trip organised by the -Vale with the idea of being as Crook discovers how Narrows in Abingdon gave us close as possible to the it is changing nearly an opportunity to visit White legendary White Horse at 15 years on Horse Brewery, which had Uffington. It was the brainchild proved elusive over the years I of founder Andy Wilson who have been involved with the coined the mission statement local branch of CAMRA. “we brew beer to drink and what we have left, we sell”. Nestled at the bottom of the Ridgeway, in a modern In 2008, with help from Titanic industrial estate at Stanford-in- Brewery, it was able to sub- the-Vale, the brewery is half the lease its own pub, the Royal size of some rivals but with Blenheim in St Ebbes, Oxford. production always in full This wonderful pub housed in a swing. White Horse grand old building gained an has gained a well- early reputation for the diverse deserved range and quality of its beers, reputation for and it was not long before it the quality of its gained entry to CAMRA’s Good beers, and like Beer Guide . If I’m ever asked to most breweries recommend a pub that serves these days, it has great beer in Oxford then the another brand Royal Blenheim is often a which produces beer default one, as it showcases 10 BELOW: White Horse Brewery styles of a more specialist kind, real ales mostly from White Team - from left to right, Alex namely Luna. Horse and Titanic ranges. Timms, Anneli Baxter, Gav Stanton and Kirsten Brunton Brewing started in October The White Horse team were there to greet us and we were made to feel very welcome as we enjoyed a free sample or two. Show Pony was a finalist at our Oxford Beer Festival in 2018 whilst Luna’s Tropical Stout was outright winner at the Wantage Beer Festival in March this year.

The White Horse CAMRA branch joined our party and chairman Ian Winfield presented the award for this outstanding stout. At the festival this beer was the subject of much conversation for its originality and flavoursome qualities. Our local CAMRA festivals offer an excellent

28 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019 opportunity to sample some of AFTER 14 YEARS of running and Main local outlets include Royal the very best beers, and that’s developing the business, Andy Blenheim and Turf Tavern in why I’m keen to tell people Wilson, part-owner of the White Oxford, Shoulder of Mutton and about them. Horse brewery, has decided to Kings Arms in Wantage, and White Horse produces a range take a back seat in day-to-day Swan in Faringdon. It also of six core beers: White Horse activities. Andy has grown the supplies Wetherspoon’s both Bitter, Black Beauty (mild), business since its inception and locally and nationally. Village Idiot, Oxfordshire Blue it has always had a close and Wayland Smithy plus a new relationship with Titanic Twelve monthly seasonal beers beer just added to the core Brewery of Stoke-on-Trent. alternate between a single range – Stable Genius at 4%. If hopped beer and a horse I were asked to choose a Stepping into Andy’s shoes is named beer, the latest for July favourite then it would be Anneli Baxter, who has come being Endeavour at 4.3%. Village Idiot, which is a medium from Titanic to take up the Recent examples of Luna beers strength IPA offering a white position of managing director. include Sputnik, a Russian head and a clear golden colour Gav Stanton, also from Titanic, imperial stout; and Moonshake, tasting of pine, orange rind and has joined as joint brewer with a milkshake IPA. other citrusy notes; a real Alex Timms, while Kirsten winner! I also recommend you Brunton is office manager and White Horse continues to have try the seasonal beers which Archie, the brewery dog. a close relationship with Titanic, are available throughout the brewing five or six days a week year as well as the Luna ones. A rebranding has just taken on the 6½-barrel plant with place with a common theme for some possibility of expansion in There are 20 pubs listed on the advertising and pump clips with future. White Horse Brewery website different colours for the beers, NEIL CROOK where you will find these beers. whilst still utilising White Horse PETE FLYNN imagery.

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beer, having broken sales records and received great feedback. The brewery has built a large outdoor decking space for the taproom, which doubles its size and also gives people a great place to sit in the sun and enjoy a pint.

Turpin The micro-brewery near Hook Norton – not to be confused Brewery News with its long-established and much larger neighbour – has taken delivery of new kit to Hook Norton Festival award at Oxford in enable expansion. Having won A membership club has been 2018. many awards for Golden Citrus, launched offering discounts on owner John Romer produced beer, brewery tours and tickets Capacity at the joint venture is two new brews for Oxford Beer to members’ evenings. Three 56 brewers’ barrels per week of Week – an IPA (5.2%), and the levels of membership are various styles, including 5.7% Porter Moka made with available, with bronze (£30 per Oxbrew’s Bean Counter, a coffee, chocolate and vanilla. annum) offering 10% off all beer coffee stout which was runner- in the brewery shop or online, up at a festival in Warwickshire. Vale Brewery plus two brewery tours; silver A good range of their beers is Vale will be hosting an open (£60) also including discounts always available at the Oxbrew day during the summer, so on other merchandise and two micro-pub in Witney. check www.valebrewery.co.uk tickets to members’ evenings; for the date. Its Pickled Swans and gold (£90) including all this Loddon members are eligible for an plus discounts on other drinks Summer specials start in June open day preview session with and four tickets to members’ with the return of Summer a free pour bar, and to become evenings. Snowflake (4.1%), while Jester a Pickled Swan (free Quad (4.4%), number three in membership) email Members’ evenings will include its single-hop series, uses a [email protected] with up to four pints of beer, a new British hop with the your email address or visit the brewery tour, street food and characteristics of some of the website. live music. The latest addition to best US hops like cascade and the Hooky range is Crafty Fox Citra. The brewery shop and taproom Black IPA at 4.4%, described as are offering brewery tours on “a heady mix of English and In July Dragon Quad (4.4%) will the first Saturday of every American hops with double become number four in the month which can be booked by roasted malt to deliver a fresh, series, described as “a calling 01844 239237. full and fruity taste”. gorgeous Slovenian hop packed with Passion Fruit, Melon, New brews for the summer Little Ox/Oxbrew Berries, Fleshy Fruit and Sweet months are Pieces of Eight, a The two small breweries, now Pepper flavours”. This will be 4% Golden Summer Beer with sharing premises and resources followed in August by Mystic tropical fruit flavours, blending in Freeland, has produced a Quad (4.4%), using a British mango and passionfruit; SPS, a second Community Endeavour hop related to Jester, with 4.2% Red Rye beer with all- beer exclusively for the network intense Blackcurrant, Citrus and English hops; and Field of of nine community-owned pubs Passionfruit aromas and Dreams, a 3.9% Pale Gold beer in Oxfordshire. The spring beer flavours. with strong hints of blackcurrant is a light IPA described as being and spice. similar to Yabba Dabba Doo, Meanwhile Citra Quad Session winner of the Beer of the IPA has become a permanent

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XT disabilities. The event, Tales Latest Animal beers from the FromThe Tap, saw 100 people farm are Hophound, a Single attend to hear stories from Hop IPA using Rakau hops from footballing legend Stuart Pearce New Zealand with an intensity and broadcasting legend Jim of aromas and the dominant Rosenthal, while enjoying the fruitiness of fresh apricot; Hobgoblin and Brakspear beers Dormouse, a Chai Pale a 4.6% brewed at Wychwood. The which is a spicy IPA with event raised thousands of warming Chai spices that add pounds for the charity. distinct cinnamon and clove flavours; and Aztec Squawk, a The recently opened Brewery Yakima Amber 4.6% with a Tap Bar (open Thursday- generous topping of hops from Sunday) offers a weekly guest the Yakima Valley in the ale which is often an American North West including experimental brew from the brewing team, or a beer that Simcoe, Cascade and Mosaic. Oxford Branch isn’t usually available on Contacts: Look out for XT beers at cask. Over the May bank upcoming events including holiday weekend a three-month Chairman Beacon Festival (21-22 June), aged Blackwych was Pete Flynn Haddenham Beer Festival (6 particularly popular. [email protected] July) and Thame Music Festival (12-13 July). The Tap Bar has been busy Secretary growing community links, now Steve Lawrence Wychwood boasting an Aunt Sally team in 01235 525436 In May Wychwood brewery the local league and hosting a [email protected] hosted a fundraising event for fortnightly quiz night. The charity partners SpecialEffect, Wychwood brewery shop Editor of the Oxford Drinker which uses technology to continues to stock many of the Dave Richardson enhance the lives of people with less widely available beers and [email protected] tours are offered on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and White Horse Branch Contact: Sundays, rated as Witney’s [email protected] number 1 “thing to do” on TripAdvisor. Keeping in touch with Oxford Branch: Look out for a new Brakspear beer called Jericho in June and Get all the latest news and July. This light, refreshing events, and share information seasonal ale is brewed with about what’s happening in your Golden Naked Oats, Red Rye area. To join send an e-mail with Crystal and First Gold Hops. ‘subscribe’ as the subject to [email protected]@oxford. camra.org.uk

To receive copies of the Oxford Drinker by post, please send A5 sized, self addressed envelopes with postage to cover 100g letter to: Oxford Drinker, 25 Chamberlain LEFT: Stuart Pearce signs bottles Place, Kidlington OX5 1SG of Hobgoblin Gold as well as and we will send you as many copies of his book issues as you send envelopes.

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32 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019 Gardeners’ World Paul Silcock , landlord of the Gardeners Arms in Plantation Road, North Oxford, continues his regular column RENAISSANCE . As defined in the during the lunch shift in my pub, probably not basing your choice dictionary it means, as a noun, because it just simply doesn’t fit of drinking establishment on the the revival of European art and with the atmosphere I’m trying background music. Besides, the literature under the influence of to create for diners. difference between Bob Dylan classical models in the 14th– and Neil Young, Miles Davis and Music is a really easy way to Charlie Parker, Metallica and 16th centuries. It also means a create atmosphere. You want a revival of, or renewed interest Slayer, Steely Dan and Steeleye chilled out Sunday lunch vibe? in, something. It is also my best Span, is obvious if you’re a fan, Don’t play Slipknot. But also but if not it’s just some noise in bet for which adjective will don’t go for Ibiza classics. Or replace artisanal in front of the background (or foreground if that weird droney type of thing brewing, which is making a you’re in the Wheatsheaf). But they play in spas. I know, you’re you are basing your choice on spirited attempt to replace craft thinking, does it make that as a term for brewing. the atmosphere in the pub – much difference? I bet if you’re also what beer they’re serving, If there’s one thing the craft reading this right now in a pub and lots of other things that I’ve brewing movement has shown you haven’t even noticed what rambled on about in previous music is playing, or even if there us (other than that BrewDog columns. feels entitled to charge an extra is music playing. Have a listen. quid for anything they can claim Anything? Well, maybe. But I’ll Music also serves the purpose as craft), it is that beer drinking give you an example of how of filling the silence when you’re is still well and truly alive. And music really can change a pub’s the first ones into a pub. Ever anything alive is going to keep atmosphere. been sat in a silent pub when you’re trying to have a moving forward. So mark my Friends of mine in Sheffield took words, in the next five years conversation but you are over a pub, a bit outside the you’re going to see a spate of absolutely sure the bartender is centre but not exactly out in the Renaissance beers. eavesdropping? suburbs. It didn’t have the, how It’s also very nearly the title of shall I say this, politest clientele. They say the sign of a great film the new Wildhearts album, Certainly not what my mates composer is that you don’t often Renaissance Men. An album so had in mind for their pub. Their notice what they’re doing with fantastic, so utterly brilliant that passive aggressive solution? the music. It fits with the images I’ve used my largest literary Get rid of the old juke box and so seamlessly, adding mood or crowbar just to give it a plug just have jazz on a sound atmosphere, but you don’t come here. system throughout the pub. out of the cinema humming it. Within three months they’d got That’s really what the role of It also helped to somewhat rid of nearly all the old clientele music in a pub should be. awkwardly turn this article to the and had a whole new clientele But you should definitely treat subject of music. Because while more in line with their idea for I love that album (Renaissance yourself to Renaissance Men by their pub. Men by the Wildhearts, out the Wildhearts. That’s just good now!), you probably won’t often Unless you’re going to see live music. Arriba. hear it in my pub, certainly not music in a pub you’re during a lunchtime anyway. Because whether you’re a music lover or not, music plays a rather important role in a pub. Let’s take this album as an example. It’s full-on rock – loud, aggressive, vital, uplifting, melodic and catchy as hell. It’s also why you won’t hear it

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34 the Oxford Drinker 112 June - July 2019 Festival Diary Compiled by Richard Queralt Further details can be found on our website www.oxford.camra.org.uk Friday 21 - Saturday 22 June Haddenham Community Junior Nor Lye Music, Real Ale & School, Woodways, Cider Festival Haddenham North Leigh Football Club, www.haddenham-beer-festival.co.uk Eynsham Park, North Leigh, nr Branch Witney Friday 12 - Sunday 14 July www.norlyefestival.com Bastille Day Beer Festival Horse & Groom, Lower Heyford News Friday 21 - Saturday 22 June Road, Caulcott, nr Bicester Stratford-upon-Avon Beer & 20 beers plus 10 ciders Cider Festival 01869 343257 Oxford Branch Stratford-upon-Avon www.horseandgroomcaulcott.co.uk Racecourse, Luddington Road, Next Branch Meeting Friday 12 - Sunday 14 July Stratford-upon-Avon www.stratfordbeerfestival.org.uk Tree Hotel Beer & Cider Monday 1 July Festival 7.30pm Friday 21 - Saturday 22 June Church Way, Iffley, Oxford Witney—meet from 6,30pm at the Tackley Beer & Music Festival 01865 775974 Plough, Bridge Street and Gardiner Arms, Medcroft Road, www.treehotel.co.uk meeting from7.30 at Wychwood Tackley Brewery, The Crofts. 01869 331266 Saturday 13 - Sunday 14 July www.gardinerarmstackley.co.uk Woodcote Festival of Ale White Horse branch (with Woodcote Steam Rally) Saturday 22 June Tidmore Lane, Woodcote, off Saturday 29 June Tingewick Fete, Beer Festival A4074 30+ beers & ciders The 2019 the Wantage Beer and & Classic Car Show www.woodcoterally.org.uk Cider Festival helpers’ trip will Recreation Ground, Water operate to the Charlbury Beer Stratford Road, Tingewick, nr Saturday 20 July Festival at Charlbury Cricket Club, Bicester Hook Norton Festival of Fine free for helpers and £10 for non- www.tingewickfete.co.uk Ales helpers, with pick-ups in Held in a field off Clay Bank, Shrivenham, Faringdon, Wantage Saturday 22 - Sunday 23 June Hook Norton and Steventon. Contact Ian Cricketers Arms Summer 100 beers plus cider & perry Winfield Beer Festival www.hookybeerfest.co.uk ([email protected]). Cricketers Arms, Littleworth, nr Wheatley Thursday 25 - Saturday 27 July Committee for 2019-20 01865 872738 Maidenhead Beer & Cider Chairman: Ian Winfield www.cricketers-arms.co.uk Festival Treasurer: Desborough College, Dick Bosley, with Martin Reade Saturday 29 June Shoppenhangers Road, as deputy Charlbury Beer Festival 100 beers plus 40 ciders/perries Secretary: Bill Nelson Charlbury Cricket Club, Dyers www.mbcf.camra.org.uk Branch contact: Neil Crook Hill, Charlbury Social secretaries: Incorporating ‘The World Aunt Thursday 25 - Sunday 28 July Nick and Janine Lowton Sally Open Singles North Moreton Beer & Cricket Public affairs officer: Championship’ Festival Tarquin May www.charlburybeerfestival.org Bear at Home Inn, High Street, Membership secretary: North Moreton, nr Didcot Tarquin May (new appointment) Saturday 6 July 01235 811311 Social media contact: Haddenham Summerfest www.bear-at-home.co.uk Ben Matthews

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