Northern Exposure

The luxurious plight of the modern day adventurer

NortherN exposure

INtrIGue IN WAshINGtoN DC DAvID GuettA Inside the hotel room that helped changed history How to negotiate Paris on New Year’s Eve – an stAr WArs exclusive guide by the Daisy Ridley talks action figures and travelling in disguise world’s favourite DJ

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ediTOr-in- managing ParTner & ediTOrial CHief grOuP ediTOr direCTOr Obaid Humaid al Tayer ian fairserviCe gina JOHnsOn [email protected]

grOuP seniOr seniOr seniOr ediTOr ediTOr arT direCTOr designer

mark evans andrew nagy Olga PeTrOff rOui franCisCO [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

digiTal sub ediTOrial animaTOr ediTOr assisTanT inTern

suraJiT duTTa salil kumar lOndresa flOres geOrgie HibberT [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

COnTribuTOrs IAIN AKErMAN, EMMA COIlEr, SArAh FrEEMAN, CJ hANNON, MArINA KAy, DAvID lASIKIN, vINCENT lONg, SEAN wIllIAMS, SUSAN wrIghT COver: BlAISE vONlANThEN

general manager PrOduCTiOn CHief COmmerCial grOuP sales PrOduCTiOn manager OffiCer manager

sunil kumar r murali krisHnan anTHOny milne miCHael underdOwn [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

assisTanT PrOduCTiOn seniOr sales manager manager

binu Purandaran miCHelle Quinn [email protected] [email protected]

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES ediTOr arabiC ediTOr dePuTy ediTOr manna Talib HaTem Omar CaTHerine freeman

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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OS82.P10-15_FrontSection.indd 10 11/22/17 3:10 PM THE JOURNEY OF A BILLION YEARS STARTS WITH A SINGLE PEARL.

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K contents

INTRO

18 22 24 31 36 38 51 EXpERIENCE TASTE STAY LUNCH TRAvEL dISpATCHES CoLUmN WITH ESSENTIAL

feaT u R es

54 64 HAS THE AgE of AdvENTURE THE HIddEN TREASURES CHANgEd foREvER? IN ITALIAN LIbRARIES

b RIefINg

75 78 80 82 90 96 98 NEWS INSIdE dESTINATIoN vISA, ComfoRT, RoUTE THE CELEbRITY EmIRATES ANd SmART gATE mAp fLEET dIRECTIoNS

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K EDITOR’S NOTE

ON THE COVER

NORTHERN EXPOSURE Our cover this month, shot by Blaise Vonlanthen, shows the beauty and vastness of the Arctic landscape.

Adventure is all about perspective. While for some it’s scaling Everest, for others it’s leaving the Christmas shopping until December 24. One is an adrenalin-fuelled expedition that’s fraught with danger; the other is reaching the world’s highest peak. It’s horses for courses. Regardless of where your head’s at on the matter, the scene is undoubtedly changing. Adventure was once the preserve of men looking to claim land and plant flags, now it’s a billion SOCIAL MEDIA dollar industry offering an idealised version of yourself. Arctic explorer,

extreme sports junkie, cosmonaut… it’s all on the table and now comes facebook.com/ with a healthy dose of five-star luxury, too. openskiesmag But while experiential travel certainly improves your dinner party

chat, ethical questions remain. What are the conservation worries twitter.com/ surrounding overpopulating sites and, in more general terms, has the openskiesmag game itself just gone a little soft – adventure made easy?

Should we suffer hardship to see such edge-of-extreme sights, or instagram.com/ does the experience, and its impact upon us, count above all else? openskiesmag This month, we sent a man to the frozen wastes of the Arctic to find out. He was sent in relative luxury. We regret that now.

ANDREW NAGY also available SENIOR EDITOR on your ipad

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K experience • taste • stay • INTROlunch with • neighbourhood • column

Art bAsel

Turn over to see more art

Art bAsel miAmi beAch With 250 galleries, art, installations, photography and more, Miami Beach could be your ideal winter destination.

turn over to plan a month of adventure Jorge Mara - La Ruche Roberto Aizenberg, Untitled, 1986 - La Ruche Roberto Aizenberg, Mara Jorge

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OS82.P17_Intro Cover.indd 17 11/22/17 2:31 PM THE PLAN Events to aim for this month

DEC. 6-13 DubAi iNTErNATioNAL fiLm fEsTivAL DIFF managing director, Shivani Pandya, talks premieres, A-list arrivals and Arab cinema

WORDS: Steve Jones

What movie premieres should we look out for this month? There are too many to mention here, but we open on December 6 with Scott Cooper’s Western masterpiece, Hostiles, starring Christian Bale and Rosamund Pike, and close with one of the most anticipated movies of the year: Star Wars: The Last Jedi. What else is happening? There are more than 28 industry- orientated talks, panel discussions, masterclasses and events featuring some of the biggest names in global cinema. This year that includes Emmy award-winning director- producer Michelle Maclaren (Game of Thrones, Westworld, The Deuce and Breaking Bad), and Academy Award-nominated documentarian Morgan Spurlock. Spurlock will host a conversation about a risk-taking career that turns the camera on himself. His latest film,Super Size Me 2: Holy Chicken, also premieres at the festival. How important is a thriving film festival to a modern city? The main aim of DIFF is to promote the culture and talent of the region to international audiences through opportunities for filmmakers in talent, including directors, producers the power of film. The festival works our part of the world. and featured talent from the movies. throughout the year to help develop Can we expect A-list visitors? How has DIFF helped Arab cinema? a thriving film culture within the Many of our screenings are followed In 2007 we launched the Dubai region, fostering the growth of by Q&As and special appearances Film Market to raise the profile of the industry by providing greater from a stellar line-up of industry Arab cinema both here and abroad.

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FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION...

DEC. 02 UAE NATIONAL DAY Celebrating the joining of the emirates in 1971, it’s a great time to be in town. Look out for national dress, parades and celebrations, culminating in a series of fireworks displays across the country.

uaE-WIdE | vISItdubaI.cOm

DEC. 7-10 ART BASEL, MIAMI Part of Art Basel’s three city series – Miami, Hong Kong, Basel – there’s sculpture, art, installations, photography and more from 250 leading global galleries, all to the backdrop of Miami Beach.

mIamI bEach | artbaSEl.cOm

DEC. 11-17 ALTITUDE COMEDY FEST Set in the Austrian mountains of Mayrhofen, the line-up includes award- winning comedy from Zoe Lyons, music from the legendary Cuban Brothers, and anecdotes from Eddie ‘The Eagle’ Edwards. are you a movie buff? check out Film club on ice maYrhOFEN | alt ItudEcOmEdYFEStIval.cOm for a selection of all-time classic and contemporary movie favourites. DEC. 12 DAME JOAN COLLINS Head to Dubai Opera for an evening It has since supported more than celebrating the life of Golden Globe-winning 300 projects, with films that have actress and best-selling author, Dame Joan gone on to find critical acclaim and Collins. Undoubtedly worth it for the gossip new audiences across the globe. on her Dynasty years, alone.

madINat JumEIrah, dubaI | dIFF.cOm dubaI | dubaIOPEra.cOm (Image Nine), 2017 Simmons, Overlay Xaviera

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DEC. 14 The heroine of Star Wars: The Last Jedi reveals nothing about this month’s DAISY RIDLEY movie; the force is strong in this one WORDS: Emma Coiler

One of the greatest parts about my job is travel When we fi lmed in Abu Dhabi for the fi rst movie, we stayed in this incredible hotel in the middle of the desert. It’s probably somewhere I would never have visited, so to have that opportunity was amazing. I haven’t had to travel in disguise yet But there are things that you used to take for granted – like going out for dinner and not being photographed – that are tough. But I wouldn’t change being part of Star Wars for anything. I couldn’t play another character When you look at Star Wars, it’s hard to imagine anybody other than the actors who played them doing the job. How could anybody apart from Carrie have been Princess Leia? How could anybody other than Harrison have been Han Solo? It’s really cool to be a Star Wars action fi gure I remember when they fi rst came THE FORCE: A DUBAI EDITION through the mail I got quite a few Let your favourite Star Wars character guide your December diary at once. I was living with my sister at the time and there were all these YOU’RE YOUR YOU’RE NATIONAL mini-me fi gures scattered around = FIERCELY + FORCE IS x BRAVE AND = DAY the place. She found it a bit weird. LOYAL STRONG OPTIMISTIC December 2 I love Comic-Con REY My fi rst one was in San Diego, and For more family I really got what Star Wars meant entertainment to the hardcore fans. I’ve certainly from the Star YOU’RE YOU’RE YOU TOUGH enjoyed my Middle East visits before, Wars universe, = FEELING OFTEN ON x ENJOY A = MUDDER check out Kid’s CONFUSED + THE RUN CHALLENGE December 8-9 so if Dubai was ever on the schedule & Teens TV FINN I would love to come back. on ice. Star Wars Rebels What can I defi nitely tell you about on the Disney Star Wars: The Final Jedi? XD channel, and Star Wars: YOU’RE YOU OWN A YOU LIKE ELTON I can defi nitely tell you that I can’t tell The Freemaker = SOMETHING + NUMBER OF x YOUR OWN = JOHN you what happens. Adventures is OF A DIVA CAPES WAY December 8 showing on LEGO TV. KYLO REGIONWIDE | STARWARS.COM

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OS82.P18-20_Experience.indd 20 11/22/17 5:09 PM EMIRATES OpenSky_UAE+Int_EA EYEUDS07_December.indd 1 Follow @emporioarmani

- EA2057 - EA2060 24/10/17 12:34 taste

dubaI Drop AND the future of coffee It’s time to start taking that morning cuppa seriously

The place is built on talent. “Drop gets coffee from some of the very best roasteries, and has three national champion baristas from around the world on the roster,” explains Mahmood Al Khamis, one half of the founding team at usa Drop. This is coffee as an experience. It’s all about single origin. Drop celebrates the SceNe iN the individual coffee, and there are some great flavours on offer. Get the barista to Bro o k lyN help work one out for you. a new saturday Here’s a recommendation. Get the iced night ritual V60. Perfect for hot days in Dubai. consumer, and perhaps a time when you Your own personal barista? Not quite yet, might message them for expert advice on Forty years ago this month, but Drop co-founder, Ghanim Al Qassim, home brew equipment or brew methods.” Saturday Night Fever became an sees the industry going that way. “I can see DrOP COffEE DubaI, Dar al WaSl Mall, al WaSl overnight sensation, based on a a bridging of the gap between barista and rOaD, +971 54 441 2523 disco club called 2001 Odyssey and the inhabitants of a rough- around-the-edges Brooklyn. Now, the borough is one of SeASoN’S eAtiNgS the city’s most attractive, and three options for a festive feast in Dubai those in the know head to Black Flamingo. With a Latin-inspired menu, great cocktails and an always-full dance floor, the place has some serious heat of its own. blaCKflaMINGONYC.COM

THe scandal

THe new one THe classIc one THe bruncH one Galvin Dubai Al Mahara at Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Al Qasr The Galvin brothers If you’re looking to dazzle, Festive brunching Saturday Night fever was based on Tribal rites of the New Saturday have fine dining at City then try superstar chef shouldn’t be confined to Night, Nik Cohn’s ‘factual’ article for Walk sewn up, and their Nathan Outlaw’s six-course one restaurant. Here you New York Magazine. Twenty years later, however, Cohn admitted to three-course ‘British with degustation menu at Al can weave through The having made the entire thing up. a European twist’ festive Mahara. The best part is Hide, Al Hambra and lunch actually has four that the menu runs both Arboretum for one giant Want to learn more about the top food destinations in Dubai? options for each course. Christmas Eve and Day. festive extravaganza. Check out the Dubai Restaurants Dhs295, GalvIN DubaI, Dhs995, burj al arab, Dhs375-850, juMEIrah al QaSr, podcast, channel 1506 on ice. +971 4 590 5444 +971 4 301 7600 +971 4 432 3232

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stay

MAlDIvES BEYOND THE DEEP There’s more to Conrad Maldives Rangali Island than its famed underwater restaurant

WORDS: dominic Ellis IMAGES: conrad madlives rangali

RAnGAlI

vISuAl chEcklIST Tick these sights off for maximum maldives action

Whitetip maldives Green sea reef reef turtles shark

manta Clownfish *a-list ray celebrity

* “Is that Ivana Trump?”

Emirates offers four daily services to malé. choose from three non-stop services, and a daily service that stops in colombo.

You probably know Conrad – to the adjoining Rangalifinolhu A recent US$3.2 million villa refurb

I Maldives Rangali Island Island – and couples go left, for has helped, too, not to mention GA l

n because of Ithaa, the a more grown-up affair on the impressive use of the stunning A R 3.6153° N 3.6153° 72.7182° E 72.7182° restaurant that’s 16 feet below water villas of Rangali Island natural amenities. Days are filled sea level and that has been its being pampered at Mandhoo show-stopping attraction since 2005. Spa while watching sharks being But to define it by its underwater fed, or swimming with turtles, or enterprise would be reductive. After all, The enjoying a sunset cruise on the this is a resort that has been named the perfect shot Indian Ocean. Life. Is. Tough. world’s best twice – and that’s with very Rather than spend your Get back in time for a five-course good reason. afternoons searching for degustation menu at The Wine the best Instagram spots The cynic in you might consider Cellar, a spot of fine dining at Ufaa by for your feed, head off on a tour with its popularity down to a simple but the island’s Instagram butler. Expect Jereme Leung, or a snack at one of the sensible separation policy. You see, sunsets, stargazing and other hidden resort’s ten other bars and restaurants. once off the seaplane and down the gems guaranteed to pull in the ‘Likes’; and Yes, even the underwater one. 1,600-foot jetty, families turn right possibly even that fire emoji, too. cONradmaldIvES.cOm

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OS82.P24_Stay_Maldives.indd 24 11/22/17 2:46 PM This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme USA a room that helped change history Now reopened and reimagined by Emmy Award-winning costume designer Lyn Paolo, the chance to stay in the room that helped bring down a president is too good to miss

WORDS: Andrew Nagy IMAGES: The Watergate Hotel

Even for a city filled with monuments,

the iconography of The Watergate Hotel is hard to ignore. Even for a WASHINGTON, DC city that houses the seat of the US 38.9072° N N 38.9072° 77.0369° W 77.0369°

WASHINGTON, DC WASHINGTON, government just 30 minutes away, its political impact is second to none. Which makes the reopening of room 214 – or The Watergate Scandal Room 214, as it’s now known – all the more exciting. Although the hotel was quickly the darling of DC high society when it opened in 1967, it was sold several times in the years that followed Emirates operates a daily service to Washington, DC. the Richard Nixon-backed Watergate break- in just five years later. It closed completely in 2007, but was bought again in 2010, with a US$200 million renovation put in place. “You can’t ignore the context,” said So while Arad has looked to the curved designer Ron Arad, when tasked with footprint of original designer Luigi Moretti, redesigning the hotel’s public spaces, new additions such as The Last Whisky “but you don’t have to mimic it.” Bar (name courtesy of The Door’s Alabama Song lyric) and Top of the Gate rooftop bar, perfect for sundowners, have added contemporary touches to the property. Its location remains a game-changer, too, being walking distance from both Georgetown and the National Mall. But to ignore The Watergate’s history would be to miss a trick, hence the reboot of room 214, with extra emphasis Head to Top of the Gate placed on its scandalous past. rooftop bar for drinks, Officially reopened in October, room 214 360° views of the city and was conceptualised and designed by Emmy Award-winning costume designer Lyn Paolo, even a spot of ice skating alongside hotel co-owner Rakel Cohen. It’s your chance to spend a night in a room that will forever have a place in US history.

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STAY

The Watergate crib sheet Brief notes on a scandal

1972 A hostile political environment reigns as US President Richard Nixon aims for re-election.

Five men are arrested attempting to bug the ofﬁ ces of the Democratic National Committee at The Watergate Complex. They use room 214 of the hotel as a base.

The FBI establish that the break-in stems from a campaign of political spying and sabotage on behalf of the Nixon re-election effort.

Nixon is re-elected with 60 per cent of the vote – one of the biggest margins in US history.

1973 Alexander Butterﬁ eld, former presidential appointments secretary, reveals that since 1971, Nixon has recorded all conversations and calls in his ofﬁ ces.

Nixon refuses to hand in the presidential tape recordings.

The Supreme Court unanimously rules that Nixon must turn over the tapes.

1974 The House of Representatives votes to impeach Nixon for obstruction of justice.

On August 8, to avoid impeachment, Richard Nixon becomes the ﬁ rst US president to resign.

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DUBAI

Learn more about great places to stay in the Dubai Hotels podcast on ice.

UAE the Downtown escape Renaissance Downtown Hotel will calm your nerves WORDS: Mike Smith IMAGES: Renaissance Downtown

There’s something a Burj Khalifa or Water Canal

quite relaxing about view for maximum Dubai. Renaissance Downtown When it comes to food, two DUBAI 25.2048° N 25.2048° 55.2708° E 55.2708° Hotel, which is good, celebrity chefs vie for your attention. as it’s a feeling that’s The Iron Chef himself, Masaharu kind of at odds with its location. Morimoto, offers contemporary Built in the shadow of Burj Japanese at his eponymously titled Khalifa, you’re literally at the restaurant (opening this month), and business end of town, but just David Myers, who gets the jump on a moment’s stroll through its him with the rustic French charm of contemporary, Arabesque lobby Bleu Blanc and Italian spot, Basta! THE ITALIAN JOB is enough to bring your heart If it’s a first trip to the city, the Although David Myers is possibly best rate down a notch or two. hotel has a team of navigator’s known for his take on Asian cuisine, his two Designed by WA International, that can tailor an itinerary to your European restaurants here are something to get excited about. The American-born chef the 298 rooms and 65 suites needs or point you in the direction won a Michelin star for his first restaurant, have a minimalist edge without of Dubai’s hidden gems. Failing that, Sona, and we can’t wait to see his Italian being too impersonal. If you can there’s a lot on your doorstep so place, Basta! in particular. Don’t be too spring to it, the suites are highly just enjoy getting lost in the city. surprised if it quickly becomes known for recommended, offering either RENHOTELS.COM the best pizza in the city.

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Smile all the stay.

Welcome to the new LUX* Grand Gaube, a totally reimagined retro-chic tropical retreat in Mauritius. Launching December 2017. What’s Next?

MAURITIUS • RÉUNION • MALDIVES • CHINA • TURKEY • VIETNAM • U.A.E • ITALY

LUX_Emirates_Issue Nov17_Eng.indd 1 10/4/17 4:26 PM lunch with

ratatouille, and plenty of pommes frites. For balance, we also decide on the menu’s least French item, a couple of Diablo cocktails – because this is LA and we’re all for bringing back the languorous Friday lunch. As our drinks arrive, Falke has moved on to life in general, and the point of finding his calling in particular. “I was at law school in Toulouse at the time,” he explains. “It’s a big university town, and one night a friend of mine took me to a jazz concert. I remember watching the bass guitar player and just thinking that he was so cool. I was so impressed that, after the show, I went straight up to him and asked how I could learn to play like that, too.” Falke was hooked. He finished his law degree and then promptly went to music school near Paris. “For me, that night; it was an epiphany.” USA Graduating at the top of his class, Falke had set his sights on becoming a session musician when Fred Falke national service intervened, and he was summoned to a military The legendary French house producer talks military compound for his statutory ten- epiphanies, remixing for U2, and creating one of the month service. Although he wouldn’t biggest house tracks of all-time know it at the time, the military diversion would work in his favour. WORDS: Marina Kay IMAGES: Vincent Long This may have been the army, but after reading a violin score

“Disco,” explains Fred LA’s Arts District. It’s a typical for some high-ranking officers, Falke, “is almost all about laidback Friday afternoon and we’re he was drafted in to the marching the bass. You take out in a French state of mind, ordering band and orchestra, and he was

34.0522° N N 34.0522° the bass and it’s gone. some classics from the menu: steak mixing with musicians. “One of 118.2437° W 118.2437° LOS ANGELES LOS It’s bass and kick.” We’re tartare, mussels, sea bass with my friends started his service discussing the nuances of French ahead of me and had moved to house music, and how it sampled Hong Kong when he’d finished. the heck out of the ’70s. Falke We’d kept in touch and one day he REMIx hIGhLIGhtS Of fRED fALkE should know. Along with fellow wrote to me about an opportunity, Frenchman Alan Braxe, the 44-year- AI Ez explaining that there was lots of qU OM 2 O G U R A old producer and bassist created I work for musicians over there.” N

L A j

the revered house track, Intro, and E Falke didn’t need a second S has a body of work that reads like invitation. As soon as his service every house lovers’ Spotify playlist. was complete, he upped sticks to We’re at Church & State, a bistro Emirates operates a daily service to Hong Kong and got a break playing Los Angeles with the Airbus A380. on Industrial Street in downtown bass in jazz clubs and as a session

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lunch with

musician. “I was the new guy in town,” he explains. “There were lots of opportunities and chances to record at the studio.” Unfortunately, the expat life wouldn’t last too long, and when the UK returned Hong Kong to China in 1997, Falke’s visa went with it. “My world collapsed,” he says. “I returned to France.” But the seed had been sown. He may have left town, but Falke’s mind was very much still in Hong Kong. “I began making my own studio,” he says of buying portable guys were sampling disco records numerous times in the years recording gear, a cassette recorder, and would ask if I could play them. that followed. It was released and a drum machine. “I had no ‘Of course I can,’ I would say, and on vinyl in 2000, ultimately idea where it was all going, but this I would bring keyboards and ending up on Falke and Braxe’s was the late nineties and French instruments to their homes to make 2005 album, The Upper Cuts. house was happening. Daft Punk house tracks. I’d play live so they “Alan had his label, Vulture, but was leading the charge along with wouldn’t have to clear the samples.” we didn’t have a manager. It was Cassius, Air, and Phoenix – although It was around this time that Falke’s just me and him. So to promote the they weren’t as electronic.” military history again intervened, track, we went to the Winter Music Again, right place right time. As and after bumping into old army Conference in Miami with two bags of Toulouse was a university town friend Alan Braxe at a record vinyl.” Those were the days when the it meant plenty of parties, which store, the pair decided they should event was a more about the business also meant plenty of DJs. “All these collaborate on some music. “I went of music than the outdoor festival to his place,” explains Falke. “He had for the masses it’s become today. a computer – an early Macintosh “We met Armand Van Helden

The Bill – in his parents’ basement and we and gave him vinyl. Daft Punk were 1 Steak tartare with were just having fun. That’s actually playing a set featuring their album French fries (US$18) 1 Mediterranean sea bass how we made Intro. Alan found Discovery, so we hung out with them with ratatouille (US$29) a sample from 1986 track Crush and had dinner. It was a different time 1 Mussels marinière (US$19) on You by The Jets, so he had the back then. It was chill. Now the DJ 1 French fries (US$8) start, I played the bassline, and thing has become a phenomenon.” 1 Profiteroles (US$9) that was that. It was very simple. After a week pushing the track in 1 Espresso(US$4) 1 Americano (US$4) “Why did we call it Intro? We Miami, they received a call from a 2 Diablo (US$39) couldn’t think of anything else,” he distributor who wanted 500 copies laughs. It’s now widely regarded of Intro. “We thought, ‘Yeah, we’ve ToTal: US$130 as a seminal house track, sampled made it.’” But it was really just the

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start. The calls started coming in for orders of 2,000, and then 10,000. “At that point, we couldn’t actually afford to make the record in those numbers, so we had to look for a label to fund it.” They signed a licensing deal and Intro went from playing in clubs to getting radio airtime – Falke’s friends calling him whenever they would hear it. French house: While this was success for a definition by Falke, it was only when he was Fred Falke approached by Australian record “It can be quite hard to describe, label Modular to remix Golden Cage but I would say a combination by Norwegian band The Whitest of American house from Boy Alive that he really began Chicago and Detroit – hard and to make waves in his own right. underground – with a romantic “That became the sound of Fred French vision… a softness.” Falke,” he says of the 2008 remix’s success. “I never really analyse myself, but that’s how people began to see me. Artists started asking an imprint of Universal France), for remixes… so I got an agent.” to realise he had to get back to his roots. As Falke puts it, “I didn’t “We met Armand know it, but I needed fresh energy.” Van Helden… gave The last few months have him vinyl. Daft Punk seen Falke finishing up his new were playing… we had album due for release in early 2018. (The single, Don’t Give Up, dinner. It was a different a collaboration with singer Jake time. It was chill” Isaac, was released in the autumn and is on YouTube). Los Angeles Over the years, he’s remixed and – Falke’s home for the past five produced tracks for everyone from years – served as inspiration. “I U2 to Jamiroquai, Gossip to Selena had 60 songs to start with and we Gomez, but the last time he produced went down to 20, then 17. An album his own album was in 2011 – Part has to tell a story; a drive in the IV. “The comfort zone is a trap,” he hills, a party in a loft, bottle service explains. “I got caught up in the in a VIP club, an afternoon pool train of remixing because my former party… like chapters of a book.” manager was really into it. So two He’s also working on a TV show years ago, I switched managers.” He for English cable but can’t reveal cleaned the slate and gained a new anything more at the moment. As manager in France-based Ivan Striga. for what’s playing in the car while “I had remix opportunities he’s driving those vast distances coming through regularly, but across LA? “I’m listening to Huey Ivan told me that as an artist, it’s Lewis and the News. I know all about [my] music. Remixing is them from Back to the Future great but people know Fred Falke and just rediscovered them. It’s because of Intro.” It took a change of amazing.” Proof that all good manager, and publisher (Pantheon, things continue to play on.

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PHILIPPINES ART DECO HUNTING Amid the crammed streets of Manila lies architecture that is the envy of its regional neighbours

WORDS: Sean Williams IMAGE: Gabriel David

From the splutter of brightly coloured jeepneys choking its main avenues, to a wild array of religious buildings and a MANILA 14.5995° N N 14.5995°

120.9842° E 120.9842° piebald, historic centre, the Philippine capital is a technicolour megacity that’s as breathless as it is logistically confounding. Along with its time as a Spanish satrapy in the late 16th century, to being a US colonial property from 1898 to 1946, Manila has been a place where Asia meets Europe and North America, and this modern history is writ large in its architecture. It was during the American period that a hunger for western inﬂ uence ﬂ ourished. Filipino artists, designers and engineers jetted off to universities across the world and returned with the skills and inspiration that have shaped their capital ever since. “Art Deco style in the Philippines can be understood both as the imposition of power by the coloniser and the demonstration of resistance MANILA DRIVING EDSA ROAD: A VISUAL GUIDE The complexities of Manila’s main artery of the colonised,” commented interior design

academic, Edson Roy Gregorio Cabalﬁ n. 2100-0600hrs 0700-1200hrs 1300-2000hrs The result was an intermingling of cultures, a hybrid Art Deco style that came to represent what the people of the Philippines brought to the table, rather than a simple imposition of its colonisers. The pre-war pinnacle of this movement was probably the Crystal Arcade, a lavish, moderne shopping mall that sat among grandiose neighbours in Manila’s central Escolta district. Unfortunately it was destined for a devastating fate just 13 years after The calm before An unfathomable Apocalyptic: there its construction, when Japanese troops the storm: enjoy mess: think twice is no escape tied explosives to its foundations towards Emirates operates 16 weekly flights from Dubai to Manila. the end of the Second World War. By 1966

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Thankfully, some structures have survived, The secret and a walk around the city’s central districts is knock a great way to discover them. Binondo, home Hidden bars are thriving to the world’s oldest Chinatown, is crammed in Manila. Here are three with Art Deco-builds, from the towering Capitol to track down Theater to the ornate First United Building. Further afi eld, abutting Manila in the lower reaches of Quezon City, you’ll fi nd Quiapo Church, which sits beside the former Times Theater and the huge facade of the Far Eastern University. The square outside the church has been home to protests, rallies and soapbox speeches, making it one of the city’s political, as well as religious, hearts. BANK BAR However the Metropolitan Theater is the jewel in THE REASON Manila’s Art Deco crown. The salmon pink building, A stock market bar price approach (buy low) which stands beside the bend of the Pasig River on THE ROUTE the edge of Intramuros, was inaugurated in 1931, Through the storage room of when the Philippines was under US possession. a 7-Eleven convenience store Partially destroyed in the war, the theatre fell into disrepair and was used at various times as a bar, motel, boxing arena and basketball court. Promises of renovation came and went under successive governments, and it seemed the Metropolitan would be doomed to a slow and public death. In 2015, however, the ‘Met’ got an overdue state reprieve. It will now be restored, experts hope, within the next fi ve years. “No other building in the Philippines would be in the OCEAN’S same conversation as the Met when it comes TELEPHONE CO THE REASON to the sheer volume of talent, artistry and Speciality cocktails passion that has been seen through its walls,” THE ROUTE what remained was simply irreparable, and says architect student Juancho Agoncillo. Via a red telephone booth at Frank & Dean cafe the Crystal Arcade was demolished. Some locals have begun a fi ght to preserve Confl ict wasn’t the only reason behind the loss other buildings beside the Met, too. Ivan May of Manila’s steel and concrete heritage, however. Dy is a tour guide and organiser of Old Manila Thanks to a population boom from 1.5 million in Walks, which runs an Art Deco tour of the city. 1948 to the 13 million-strong metropolis it is today, Preservation of his favourite architectural style the rush for living space has meant that much is important, “These works represent a period in of its historic architecture has been left behind. Manila’s design history that was shaped by local Bad decisions at government level have also architects,” he says. “It anchors Manila to her past.” played their part. The iconic Jai Alai building The walk is also a great way to explore the was considered one of the fi nest Art Deco city: a way to look up beyond the chaotic street EXIT BAR buildings in Asia when it was built in 1940. life and experience something that, while THE REASON It survived the Battle of Manila relatively beautiful, is grounded in Manila’s palimpsest The big servings of food and unscathed, but then was demolished in 2000 history. While Art Deco has become a byword stack of board games THE ROUTE to make way for the Manila Hall of Justice – a for style and culture across the world, in Through the second exit door building that was ultimately never built. Manila it acts as a historical record, too. at the back of Plaza Cafe

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OS82.P38-39_Dispatches.indd 39 11/22/17 2:53 PM EXPO 2020

UAE a celebration oF cultures Why the cultural elements of Expo 2020 will drive its lasting legacy

WORDS: Iain Akerman corner of the globe. The events programme is being curated in partnership with participating countries and will include celebrations from everywhere, including Chinese New Year, Diwali and Christmas. Each of the three theme districts – Opportunity, Mobility and Sustainability – will include performance spaces, galleries, art installations and gardens. There will also be a children’s park and a dedicated events programme for families, while the iconic Al Wasl Plaza will have an innovative cover that doubles as a screen. “If you’re flying over the Expo site you’ll be able to see the shows that are reflected on it,” says Shamsuddin. “At the first Expo in that of the 180 nations expected to “The Expo is about innovation

London in 1851, there was participate in Expo 2020. and progress as well as people’s a gentleman by the name The renowned Emirati hospitality interpretation of their cultures.” DUBAI 55.2708° E 55.2708° 25.2048° N N 25.2048° of Adolphe Sax,” says will begin the moment millions of Interpretations have inspired great Dr Hayat Shamsuddin, visitors – 70 per cent from outside things at past Expos. Expo 2020 Senior Advisor Culture for Expo the UAE – arrive. The experience aims to nurture a similar legacy. 2020 Dubai. “He had brass will continue through traditional ExPO2020dubAI.AE instruments that he wanted to food, music, storytelling, poetry, showcase. And that was where the performance, theatre, architecture saxophone came to the attention of and even indigenous flora. the world.” “We very much would like to Shamsuddin is passionate about ensure that the site reflects the stories of how exposure to culture UAE,” says Shamsuddin. “A lot during a World Expo has influenced of the aspects of programming some of the most famous artists will be specific to our part of the and inventors worldwide. world, so you will have storytelling, Emirates unveils new She is working to create a similar which is very much in line with our Expo 2020 livery legacy for Emirati culture, and traditions, you will have poetry, and The livery is based on the Expo 2020 logo you will have programming from and is the first of three decal designs the UAE but also from the other that will mirror the themes of the event. participating nations.” The first represents mobility and reflects Expo 2020 will also be a Emirates’ role as a connector of people celebration of cultures from every and places.

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USa Logan Square, chicago WORDS anD ImaGeS: Sarah frEEmaN

Once open prairie land, Logan Square

GO didn’t really become part of Chicago until 1889, and it was one of the last CHIC a 41.8781°N 41.8781°N 87.6298°W pockets of the city to be gentrified. Craft beer taverns like Revolution Brewing and Flanked to the east by the Chicago artisanal cocktail lounges have since sprouted River and bisected diagonally by Milwaukee up, transforming it into one of the city’s trendiest Avenue, it now takes its place as one of the 77 drinking destinations. neighbourhoods making up the city. Pleasingly, its foodie scene is refreshingly Its historical heart is the stately public unpretentious. With a distinctly Latino feel square, where Milwaukee, Kedzie and Logan – thanks to an influx of Hispanics to the thoroughfares converge. Designed in the neighbourhood in the early 1960s – expect to find 1870s by William LeBaron Jenney (father of Cuban carry-outs, Mexican grocery stores and the American skyscraper), the centrepiece is more taco joints than is probably healthy. That a 70-foot tall marble column memorialising said, El Cid Tacos on Milwaukee does the best Illinois’ centennial. tilapia tacos in town – so don’t miss that. One of the neighbourhood’s most famous Naturally, there are other things to do in landmarks sits nearby: the century-old Logan besides lining your stomach, and Logan Theatre that, after decades of disrepair, in keeping with the area’s working class was revived to its former Art Deco glory six sensibility, much of it is free. Check out the years ago. public art scattered along The 606 (a railway However it was Logan Square’s year-round line repurposed as an elevated greenway) Sunday Farmers’ Market (launched in 2007) or take in vibrant murals along Milwaukee that actually fuelled the area’s hip-ward shift. Avenue. Alternatively, just take it easy at one of Logan’s four parks that are linked by beautiful leafy boulevards and studded with the neighbourhood’s signature greystone homes.

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NEIGHBOURHOOD

START 1. BUSY BEAVER BUTTON CO For a novel start to your day that won’t cost you a thing, check out the 1,600 pin-back buttons that grace the factory walls of the world’s only button museum. Sibling owners Joel and Christen Carter’s 18,000-strong archive spans genres such as politics to music, ﬁ ne art, comic, sports and a few historical gems like FOURTEEN- Abraham Lincoln’s campaign button. You can also watch the daily quota of MINUTE 30,000 buttons being churned out on vintage hand-cranked machines, destined WALK for homegrown businesses in Logan Square, as well as big-name clients including Daft Punk and Adidas.

3407 W ARMITAGE AVE | +1 773-645-3359 | BUSYBEAVER.NET

TWELVE- MINUTE 2. BICYCLE RIDE THE 606 Hop on your trusty Divvy bike and head south along N. Kimball Avenue to the 606 or Bloomingdale Trail – Chicago’s more democratic and elongated version of Manhattan’s High Line. Unveiled in 2015, the abandoned railway line-turned-aerial parkway has triumphed in becoming a neighbourhood uniﬁ er – intersecting four districts that run east to west on the city’s northwest side. Floating above the trafﬁ c, cyclists, dog-walkers and runners congregate along the 4.3km trail, which is tethered to the ground by 12 access ramps.

ASHLAND (1600W) AND RIDGEWAY (3750W) | THE606.ORG

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There are nine Divvy bike-share depots in the Logan Square area. Perfect for short rides of up to 30 minutes, 3. you can bag a 24-hour pass for just US$9.95 Bang Bang Pie ShoP divvybikes.com Follow your nose along North California Avenue to Bang Bang, a neighborhood bakery that marries Midwestern pie heritage with a community-focused vibe. Do as Logan locals do and go the double slice route, with a classic blueberry cobbler and honey custard pie, washed down with their house-roasted coffee. Failing that, try one of their famous savoury biscuit sandwiches. The sausage doused in sweet grape jelly is a real winner.

2051 N CalIfOrNIa avE | +1 773-276-8888 | baNgbaNgPIE.COm

TEN- mINuTE WALK

4. galerie F You don’t need to traipse the city’s Wabash Arts Corridor to view the best of Chicago’s street art. Galerie F houses the dynamic talent of street artists like Mosher (a long-time Logan Square resident), together with silkscreen rock and roll gig posters. Owner Billy Craven (himself a practicing screen-printer and street-art aficionado) has been a driving force behind Logan’s thriving arts community. More than just a regular art space, Galerie F hosts monthly live drawing event, Draw, Draw, Draw, screen-printing classes and pop-up print sales (with a barbecue) on the back patio. Head to the multi-purpose basement where you can listen to records and play chess, or venture into the rear alleyway to check out the freshly sprayed murals.

2415 N mIlwauKEE avE | +1 872-817-7067 | galErIEf.COm

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FIvE- mINutE TAXI 5. Lost Lake If you’re going to order just one drink at cocktail guru Paul McGee’s tiki-styled bar, make it a Bunny’s Banana Daiquiri, and be prepared for a dolphin (fashioned out of a banana) to practically jump out of your conch-shaped vessel. If Lost Lake’s exotic brews don’t transport you to the South Pacific, there’s always the puffer fish lamps, piranha tank and oversized palm print wallpaper to get you in the mood.

3154 W DIvErSEy AvE | +1 773-293-6048, | lOStlAKEtIKI.cOm FIvE- mINutE WALK 6. the Logan theatre Making a pilgrimage to one of Logan’s most iconic landmarks is a fitting finale to your time here. This Art Deco, 1915-built, movie house has a reputation for hosting the best late-night screenings in the city. As well as showing classic films, blockbuster hits, indie movies and cult classics, it hosts plenty of events for non-movie goers, like stand-up comedy and trivia evenings. The neighbourhood- minded theatre also partners with local Logan businesses such as Revolution Brewing (check out the craft beers) and Galerie F, that supplies silkscreen posters Emirates flies non-stop daily from Dubai to chicago with the Boeing 777-300Er. for special theatre screenings. DID YOU KNOW? chicago’s Skydeck is the highest observation platform in America. On a clear day 2646 N mIlWAuKEE AvE | +1 773-342-5555, up there you can see four states: Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin and michigan. END thElOgANthEAtrE.cOm

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OS82.P42-48_Neighbourhood.indd 48 11/22/17 5:07 PM COMFORTme

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COLUMN

GHOSTS OF CHRISTMAS PAST Our new columnist, Dom Joly, on the perils of travelling for the festive season IMAGE: Adam Patterson

When I was growing up, screaming at us, demanding to know I went to school in the exactly who had eaten the chocolate. UK but lived in Lebanon. He was livid and, naturally, I was too ZAMBIA 27.8493° E 27.8493° 13.1339° S 13.1339° Because of the political terriﬁ ed to own up. We were there for situation there at the time, a good 20 minutes before he closed however, I wasn’t always able make with the immortal line, “Someone it home to the Middle East from the amongst us is a liar and they will be UK for the school holidays. made to pay for their actions…” One Christmas, when Beirut After an extremely uncomfortable airport was closed, I got a last- supper (lamb chops, no veg, no minute invitation from a school potatoes) I decided to go to bed friend to spend the holidays with and try to work out how to solve the him and his family at their home in chocolate conundrum. I closed my Kitwe, a mining town in the north door, got undressed and climbed of Zambia. into bed. I was tired and I was We arrived on the morning of bar of Cadbury’s Fruit & Nut. It stressed, but the drama wasn’t quite Christmas Eve, and as soon as I’d was like an oasis to a thirsty desert over for the day. met his parents I could tell that it was traveller. I opened the wrapping, As I pulled the string by my going to be a tricky week. To say that snapped off four rows of the oh-so bed, reasonably assuming it would they were quite intense would be an inviting chocolate, and gobbled it turn out the bedroom lights, a understatement. I don’t think they down. My appetite sated, I joined piercing siren wailed out and bright took an instant shine to my spiky the family by the pool and thought spotlights began to dart across hair and teenage angsty vibe either. nothing more of it. the family compound. Through To make matters worse, I was Around half an hour later, the the window I could make out the a vegetarian at the time, and cook came rushing outside and father scouring the garden armed militantly into animal rights. This urgently whispered something into with a shotgun. Ten minutes later was a problem. Zambian Airlines the father’s ear. In an instant he he burst into my room, still with the did not cater for vegetarians and went puce red, immediately ordering gun in his hands. neither, as it turned out, did my everybody inside: the family, the “Did you pull the alarm?” he hosts. I was starving when I arrived staff… and me. Once assembled in screamed in apoplexy. early in the morning, but breakfast the living room, our inquisitor began “No… not me…” I stammered, and at my festive home consisted of he stormed out to spend the rest of a plate of sausages and some the night patrolling the garden in his fruit juice. Lunch didn’t fare much underpants. This was the ﬁ rst night better either: a massive pair of ZAMBIA of my Zambian Christmas, and steaks grilled to destruction on the things didn’t get much better. enormous barbecue in the garden. For more But the story is now part of my By this point I was famished humour family folklore. Whenever anything from Dom Joly, and, while the rest of the family lay check out Trigger bad happens over the holidays we around the pool, I spotted a large Happy TV, showing always console ourselves by saying, fridge and had a look inside. There, in Comedy TV “Ah well, don’t worry... it can’t be as on ice. on the top shelf, was an enormous bad as Zambia.”

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the new age of adventure Glaciers, icebergs, Arctic storms and a full turndown service.

Turn over to gently go extreme

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of a DVENTURE

As luxury liners negotiate the frozen wastelands of Greenland and the Arctic Ocean, we examine the not-so- brave new world of adventure travel

OS82.P53-62_Greenland.indd 54 11/22/17 4:57 PM THE f ACE

of ADVENTURE CHANGED foREVER? WORDS: CJ Hannon

OS82.P53-62_Greenland.indd 55 11/22/17 4:57 PM greenland

Standing on a gorse-strewn bluff looking down on one of the world’s great natural wonders, it’s hard to conceive of how something so beautiful 71.7069° N N 71.7069° 42.6043° W 42.6043° is so totally unknown. GREENLAND GREENLAND In terms of exposure, it’s the very antithesis of the world’s traditional sites: the Pyramids of Giza, the lost city of Petra, Macchu Pichu, all photographed, consumed, hashtagged and tweeted to the point where the real thing is often no match for the image in your head. Not so the Ilulissat Icefjord, a mammoth and mind- boggling procession of ice, slowly making its way into the Davis Strait on the western reaches of Greenland. The huge chunks of ice, drifting past at a rate of 40 metres a day, are calved off by the legendary Sermeq Kujalleq glacier, 40km to the east. It’s believed that the iceberg that sank the Titanic in 1912 came from this glacier, but in terms of lifespan that’s nothing. Some of the ice floating here is more than 250,000 years old; it’s nature at its most raw and primal. A few kilometres away, anchored in Disko Bay, is the National Geographic Explorer. Originally an expedition ship, it has been fitted out to cater to the demands of the 21st century tourist. This Lindblad expedition is at the edges of the luxury tourism market – a place where the one per cent forgo private pools and beachside manicures for a hike through untouched tundra and whale watching at the top of the world. But this is no cruise, and the ship is staffed with highly trained biologists and scientists, photographers and historians; a team that can help people understand what they are seeing and why. This type of educational travel has become something of a trend, and this year has seen trips to the Galapagos Islands led by the evolutionary biologist Richard Dawkins, as well as by renowned author, the Amazon, with David Attenborough live-narrating psychologist and linguist, Steven Pinker and his wife, through an intercom? Or perhaps a Segway trip through Rebecca Goldstein, a novelist and philosopher. Panama’s perilous Darién Gap? When presented in those terms, it’s difficult to argue Regardless of the industry end-game, there is now an with the benefits of such a trip. The volcanic archipelago undeniable desire for more from our travel experiences. in the Pacific is where Charles Darwin arrived at his Attitudes are changing and what used to be classed theory of evolution, and a select group got to walk in his as unique has become the norm. New York was footsteps – for a price – hosted by some of the world’s once a byword for the trip of a lifetime, but for many foremost experts. What could be better than that? it’s now just another metropolis, dotted with global But while a trip promoting a greater understanding of brands and countless selfie-stick wielding tourists. the natural world is commendable, there is an underlying Sure, you can book a suite in Waldorf Astoria, but you fear that luxury and edge-of-the-world danger could can book stunning suites from Shanghai to Rio. Cities eventually coalesce into some outrageously expensive have become a series of branded objects and retail mix. Are we looking at velvet-lined helicopter trips over destinations, one much like the other. Trafalgar Square?

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OS82.P53-62_Greenland.indd 56 11/22/17 4:57 PM Four Arctic Adventures Trips for those with an icy sense of daring-do

1 Svalbard A Norwegian archipelago deep in the Arctic Circle, Svalbard has it all: from the Northern Lights and glaciers to polar bears and whales.

2 Iceland A land of fire and steam, Iceland is spectacular. Explore a landscape of volcanoes, lava fields, hot springs and bleak beauty.

3 The North Pole The Empire State Building? The Colosseum? Seen it, The North Pole has long been on explorers’ bucket lists, although due to the cold, you will done it, posted it online. only be able to stay there for an hour. In comparison, back on board the Explorer and sailing up the Davis Straight, we have Greenland’s ragged, brutal shoreline to the east, the occasional blue whale breeching, and a procession of icebergs interrupting the poker-flat sea. There’s not another tourist, indeed not another human, in sight. Some, of course, would consider this cheating. A bourgeoisie attempt at extreme travel – adventure made easy. Historically, this type of trip would result in one of 4 two things: death or fame. Death, if it did come, would Ilulissat Icefjord This Unesco World Heritage Site, is a stunning be prolonged and gruesome. Fame would be – just fjord found in western Greenland, with the famed about – worth it. The first explorers who visited the Sermeq Kujalleq at its eastern tip.

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K greenland home comforts or not, we were present in the Arctic, braving sub- zero temperatures and viewing icebergs. should you suffer hardship to be authentic?

But while tourism might have existed even then, the majority of Arctic travel was based on covering ground, planting flags and reaching peaks. It was about endurance and sacrifice, and it didn’t always end well. In the meantime, the masses were basking in the glow of the great tourism boom of the 1950s and ’60s, generally seen as two weeks away for summer and starring a beach location billed as the height of luxury. With the advent of cheaper air travel, it morphed into a series of weekend breaks in cities across the world and then longer, ‘experiential’ adventures. The choice that now exists has, unintentionally, created a hierarchy of travel. There’s the classic tourist, who visits cities for a week or two; the backpacker, who travels for a year but barely survives on a budget; and the traveller, who wanders the globe at will, with no itinerary or plan other than to credibly experience the world. You could say that one aim of the new breed of luxury Arctic – rugged, slightly mad men – were amazed. How travel is to make tourists feel like travellers. Lindblad is the scene to explain the Northern Lights, or the giant white bears, or Greenland is all not the only company taking this route. A company called about natural the days and nights of darkness? When the Greek sailor spectacles, DNA Unwrapped takes your DNA test and then tailors a and explorer Pytheas arrived in 325BC, he described the a mix of trip based on the results. Or, if you’re feeling guilty about breathtaking frozen sea as “curdled”, and on his return to Greece was beauty and being part of the one per cent, a 1,300-acre nature reserve promptly regarded as a fantasist. No one, it was thought, other-worldly in Nicaragua – the Nekupe Sporting Resort and Retreat – vastness could survive these “uninhabitable reaches”, if they even combines luxury (Michelin-inspired meals, a high-end spa) existed in the first place. The boundaries of fact and with the knowledge that the resort practices sustainable fiction were often stretched during the early years of Arctic tourism and safeguards an area once prey to slash-and- exploration, not helped by the fact that those in the west burn agriculture. couldn’t comprehend its vastness or, in their eyes at least, According to Sarah Kennedy Ellis, VP of global its strangeness. On an expedition in the 17th century, marketing at Sabre Hospitality Solutions, this is a big French author Pierre Martin de la Martiniere wrote: “Nearly driver of luxury travel right now. “We see guests moving all those who live above the Arctic Circle are sorcerers, beyond traditional ideas of status and embracing highly- who control the winds at will.” Thankfully, by the 19th bespoke travel opportunities that focus more on the century such fantasies had become less prevalent and the individual traveller’s personality and values and less about first tourists began to trickle north. Some sailed private expressing opulence.” sailboats north of Alaska, while others took part in the Of course, you can’t hide from the fact that this is a first tour groups, exploring Svalbard and the regions north rather more genteel form of adventure. On board the of Norway. At this time, simply being able to see what lay Explorer, an expedition it might have been, but we weren’t north of the Arctic Circle was perceived as luxury. exactly braving the realities of Arctic travel. Problems were

the DetAILs

GREENLAND cURRent teMP: LOW -15/HIGH 37°F POPULAtIOn: 56,186 VIsIt: MAY TO AUGUST see: NATIONAL GREENLAND MUSEUM

For more adventures in Greenland on today’s flight check out Explorers: Into Twin Galaxies – A Greenland Epic showing on Red Bull TV, channel 1295 on ice Digital Widescreen. NUUK

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Sermeq Kujalleq The glacier behind the iceberg that sank Titanic

The Jakobshavn Glacier (Sermeq Kujalleq in Greenlandic) has helped develop our understanding of climate change and icecap glaciology. Featured in the 2012 documentary, Chasing Ice, it had the longest calving event ever captured on film (75 minutes) leaving the crew to comment, “The calving of a massive glacier, believed to have produced the ice that sank the Titanic, is like watching a city break apart.”

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less rationing and wondering how we would survive the Our psyches are certainly enriched by the fact that our the ship temperature drop, and more about whether there would experiences are no longer just experiences, but content The National Geographic be chocolate mousse for dessert (there was). Meanwhile, too. We filter and distribute what we see through social Explorer has in-cabin TV has the latest Hollywood films, a variety of channels such as Instagram and Facebook. This is why an Open Bridge policy, meaning National Geographic documentaries and a daily turndown the storm, which arrived on the final evening, was so you can annoy service. This is exploration that comes with a branded welcome. It was weather as an event, and as content. the captain at will dressing gown and headed notepaper. People could tweet: ‘Survived an Arctic storm!’ and bathe But home comforts or not, we were present in the in whatever reactions they got. We consumed the storm Arctic, braving sub-zero temperatures and viewing and handed it to the masses. icebergs. Must a person suffer hardship to be recognised But it developed us as people, too. We are better as authentic travellers – and should we even care? human beings for having seen a blue whale breech, The philosopher Alain de Botton says we need to and for having been tossed around in a violent weather be clearer about why we choose to travel in a certain event off the coast of Greenland. Certainly our post- way. “In the future, we would ideally be more conscious trip stories will be better, and therefore so will the about it – aware that we were on a search for places experience of our future dinner guests. If travel, like that could deliver psychological virtues such as ‘calm’ everything else in 2017, is a commodity, then why not or ‘perspective’. A visitor to Monument Valley in Utah consume it as such? wouldn’t just be in it for a bit of undefined ‘adventure’, For now, luxury experiential travel shows no sign of something to enjoy and then gradually forget about two abating. You can train as a cosmonaut if you have weeks later; travelling to the place would be an occasion US$89,500 to spare, or descend into the magma fundamentally to reorient the personality. It would be the chamber of a dormant Icelandic volcano. With manned call-to-arms to become a different person; a 5,000-mile, missions to Mars looking like a real possibility, the Red US$4,000 secular pilgrimage properly anchored around a Planet will surely be up next for the intrepid – and stage of profound character development.” wealthy – traveller.

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OS82.P53-62_Greenland.indd 62 11/22/17 4:58 PM Note: All listed numbers are within UAE The h idden Treasures

OS82.P64-70_Italy.indd 64 11/22/17 5:03 PM in i talian l ibraries Leave the packed streets of the city behind. The beauty of Italy can be discovered within the halls of its reading rooms

WORDS: DAVID LASKIN IMAGES: SUSAN WRIGHT

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In the madness of late spring at San seamlessly into the architectural fabric surrounding

Marco Square in Venice, amid the hordes San Marco, the Marciana was hailed by Italian architect, pouring in from land and sea, I found Palladio, as the richest and most ornate building “since VENICE 12.3155° E 12.3155° 45.4408° N N 45.4408° the still point of the turning world. Antiquity” when it opened in 1570. I found it in the library. Originally, the Marciana’s salone was filled with walnut It was 10 in the morning and I was standing, alone and desks to which codices (ancient bound manuscripts) enthralled, on the second floor balcony of the Biblioteca were chained, but in 1904 the chamber was converted Nazionale Marciana. Across the Piazzetta rose the to an exhibition and lecture space. Today, you can visit Doge’s Palace. At my feet, tourist insanity. At my back, using the same admission ticket that gives you access an immense, hushed, empty reading room designed by to the Doge’s Palace and the nearby Correr Museum. Jacopo Sansovino and decorated by Titian and Veronese. I gazed at the Titians, Veroneses and Tintorettos Why go to the library in Italy when all around you there that adorn the walls and ceiling. Yes, the library has is fantastic art, exalted architecture and deep history? books, too – one million of them – but to my eyes Because, as I discovered in the course of a rushed but the Marciana itself is as precious as its holdings. illuminating week dashing from Venice to Rome, Florence Rome has no shortage of important, and stunning, and Milan, the country’s historic libraries contain all of libraries, and I managed to squeeze in three during my those without the crowds. culture binge there. The Angelica, the Casanatense and Accompanied by my friend Jack Levison (a Bible the Vallicelliana are in the part of Rome I know and love scholar who was in Italy to study ancient manuscripts), I best – the historic centre anchored by Piazza Navona. hit six libraries in a literary Giro d’Italia. Not once were we Originally associated with different religious orders (the shushed or told not to touch. Augustinians, the Dominicans and the Oratorians), these Carlo Campana, the librarian on duty in the Marciana three libraries, now run by the state, retain some of the manuscript room when we arrived, was typical in his unique spirit of the clerics who established them. affable erudition. With a pirate’s flashing grin, Campana To my mind the most fascinating of these clerics left his post to take me on a tour of the library’s was the 16th-century priest (and saint) Filippo Neri, monumental public rooms. the charismatic founder of the Oratorians and their “The Marciana was built here as part of the 16th- library, the Biblioteca Vallicelliana. In the tumultuous century project to create a triumphal entry to the city world of Rome in the Counter-Reformation, Neri was from the lagoon,” he said, joining me on the balcony off something of a folk hero, a street preacher who devoted the salone, Sansovino’s palatial reading room. “Situating his life to the poor, and paradoxically won a following the library in the most important place in Venice reflects among the rich and powerful. Neri’s Oratorians took no the prestige of the book in the culture of the city.” Knit vows and were bound by no formal rules aside from a

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Treasures within An early edition of Dante’s long narrative poem, Divine Comedy. Widely regarded to be one of the finest examples of Italian literature in existence, it was completed in 1321, just one year before his death. Unfortunately, no original manuscript is believed to have survived.

commitment to humility and charity, and yet they dwelt in a gorgeous convent designed by Francesco Borromini, the most sought after architect in Baroque Rome after Bernini. The Vallicelliana was their library. The next day, I visited the Angelica and the century herbals and the personal papers of composer QUIET Casanatense libraries and found them a fine study PLEASE Niccolò Paganini. The reading in contrasts. Where the Angelica is small, plush and room in the After Rome, I made the journey to Florence to check out perfectly faceted, the Casanatense is spartan and Biblioteca the only library designed by Michelangelo, the Biblioteca Medicea muscular. The Angelica reflects the wealth of its Laurenziana, Medicea Laurenziana. Augustinian founders, whose church, the Basilica di Florence “Austere” was the word that came to mind as I entered Sant’Agostino, adjoins the library, while the Casanatense his crepuscular vestibule and ascended to the portal of shows its Dominican roots in its deep collection of books the reading room on a flight of oval steps carved from a and codices on church doctrine and natural history. somber grey stone known as pietra serena. No adjective “The salone of the Angelica is a kind of vaso dei libri – I know does justice to the reading room itself. Rows of a vessel of books,” the library’s brisk director, Fiammetta walnut benches that ingeniously double as lecterns – Terlizzi, told me proudly as we surveyed the four tiers of plutei, they are called – flank the sides of a central corridor bookshelves that line the walls of this splendid chamber. paved in intricately patterned rose and cream terracotta. “The room has the height and perspective of a cathedral.” Along the two lateral walls, stained glass windows face After lunch, I whiled away what remained of the each other in precise rectangular alignment, illuminating afternoon at the Casanatense. The library’s “salone the benches. The heavily carved wooden ceiling seems monumentale” is the perfect antidote for what the to flatten and deepen the space to infinity, like the writer Eleanor Clark called the “too-muchness” of vanishing point in a Renaissance landscape painting. Rome. Whitewashed, cavernous and presided over by “There is a small club of libraries with truly deep a pair of enormous 18th-century globes, this elegantly holdings, and we are part of it,” said Giovanna Rao, the spare reading room is now used for exhibits and director of the library, when we met in her office, a former lectures. The rest of the library is a delightful warren of monastic cell off the cloister. “Our manuscript collection, more whimsically decorated chambers, including the which runs to 11,000 items, rivals that of the British Library frescoed Saletta di Cardinale (the “little hall” of Cardinal or the National Library of France, though we are not a Girolamo Casanate, who founded the library in 1700). national library. And of course, no other library that enjoys Among the Casanatense’s most prized holdings is an the good fortune of having Michelangelo as its architect.” illuminated 14th-century “Teatrum Sanitatis” with its vivid In Milan, Biblioteca Ambrosiana comprises an depictions of medieval daily life, a collection of 18th- art gallery, art school and ecclesiastical college,

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FOUR TO DISCOVER Amazing bookstores to visit on your travels

1 Shakespeare and Company, Paris, France

“With a collection of ancient all housed in a rather severe neoclassical building close to manuscripts rivalling the Vatican’s, the Duomo. It was the intention the Ambrosian Library is world- of Cardinal Federico Borromeo, class… housing Leonardo’s Codex who founded the Ambrosiana Atlanticus, a collection of 1,119 in 1609 and named it for the 2 sheets of drawings and captions” city’s patron saint, that the El Ateneo Grand Splendid, library, museum and schools be Buenes Aires, Argentina integrated and collaborative. With a collection of ancient manuscripts rivalling the Vatican’s, the Ambrosian library is world-class. The library’s ornate 17th-century reading room, the Sala Federiciana, is incorporated into the museum, and, since 2009, has been used to display the institution’s greatest treasure: Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus, a collection of 1,119 sheets of drawings and captions on subjects ranging from botany to warfare. 3 Surrounded by the gilded and sepia spines that line this Livraria Lello & Irmao, Porto, mellow chamber, and dwarfed by its white barrel-vaulted Portugal ceiling, I lost myself for half an hour in Leonardo’s inspired doodles of catapults, primordial pontoon bridges and tripod-mounted cannons. The only other artwork in the old reading room is a Caravaggio still life: a basket of slightly worm-eaten fruit stuck with a few pocked, withered leaves. The ingenious improvisations of a restless polymath and this stark memento mori by a disturbed visionary form a perfect pair of bookends for the Italian Renaissance. 4 Only in Italy, I reflected, and only in a library could I Libreria Aqua Alta, Venice, stand, alone and undisturbed, in the centre of a great city Italy and peer into the mind of genius.

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K news • insideBRIEFING emirates • destination • visa • Uae smart Gate • roUte map • fleet

taking luxury to new heights Emirates unveils the game-changing new interiors of its Boeing 777 fleet.

turn over for more news from emirates

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K news Emirates unveils new cabins for Boeing 777 fleet

inspired by the Mercedes-Benz S-Class, the new suites really take luxury and privacy to the next level. The multi-million dollar upgrade includes newly-designed seats and upgraded inflight entertainment systems in all cabin classes. “The inflight experience is the heart of our brand and service proposition,” said Emirates President, Sir Tim Clark. “Aside from our new fully enclosed private suites, Business Class features thE ComplEtEly r EfrEshEd Boeing our latest fully-flat leather seats with 777 interiors include the airline’s personal minibars, Economy Class seats highly anticipated new First Class have adjustable full leather headrests, private suites. With floor-to-ceiling and the inflight entertainment system sliding doors and sleek design features has been upgraded for all cabin classes.”

Bespoke livery for Emirates Daily service EmiratEs uNvEilEd a bespoke livery Group, said, “His Highness Sheikh Zayed after receiving its 100th A380. The dedicated his life to the building of a to Algiers design features a special tribute to the prosperous UAE, and we are proud to late HH Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al celebrate his remarkable legacy and EmiratEs will iNCrEasE flights to Nahyan, the UAE’s founding father. honour his memory. Sheikh Zayed left Algiers to daily from December 13, It is the first time that Emirates’ livery an indelible mark on our home, the UAE, with the launch of an additional flight has featured a customised decal of a and we hope to help preserve his legacy that will further boost inbound and well-known public figure, marking the and spirit by spreading his message of outbound passenger traffic and cargo airline’s first initiative for the ‘Year of inspiration, dedication and leadership flows between Algeria and Dubai. Zayed’, which commences in 2018 and around the world as our aircraft take The new service will operate coincides with the centennial of his birth. to the skies and circle the globe.” every Wednesday with an Emirates His Highness Sheikh Ahmed Bin A total of 10 Emirates aircraft – Boeing 777-300 in a three-class Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and five Airbus A380s and five Boeing configuration, offering eight seats Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and 777-300ERs – will carry the livery. in First Class, 42 in Business Class and 310 in Economy Class. “In line with healthy commercial demand, we are pleased to introduce an additional service to Algiers, which will offer our customers even more choice and convenience to connect to Dubai and onward destinations, particularly in the Middle East, Far East, West Asia, Indian Ocean and Australia,” said Orhan Abbas, Emirates Senior Vice President, Commercial Operations, Africa. Emirates launched services to Algiers on March 1, 2013. In less than five years, the route has carried more than half a million passengers.

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Flight boost for Nigeria

EmiratEs will rEinstatE its second daily service to Lagos and resume operations to Nigeria’s capital city, Abuja, with four weekly flights from December 15. The added frequencies to Lagos will be operated with Emirates’ Boeing 777-300ER aircraft. The reinstated service to Abuja will be served by a 360-seat Boeing 777- 300 in a three-class configuration. cutting-edge learning technologies “Nigeria is a key market for Emirates and a modern fleet of training aircraft Emirates and its importance is Flight Training to train cadets with no previous reflected by the fact that we will add knowledge of flying. 11 weekly flights between Dubai and Academy opened His Highness Sheikh Ahmed Bin two major cities in Nigeria – Abuja Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and and Lagos,” said Orhan Abbas, EmiratEs’ statE-of-thE-art facility Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Emirates Senior Vice President, for training ab initio pilots has been Group, said, “The Emirates Flight Commercial Operations, Africa. officially inaugurated by His Highness Training Academy is designed to be one Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al of the most advanced flight training Maktoum, Vice President and Prime facilities not just in the Middle East Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai. region, but in the entire world. The The inauguration of the Emirates academy will train both UAE nationals Flight Training Academy took place as well as international cadets with its during Dubai Airshow. state-of-the-art facilities and fleet. We Located in Dubai South, the academy believe that the academy will set new has been developed in response to the benchmarks for next-generation pilot global aviation industry’s increasing training, and strengthen Dubai’s position need for skilled pilots. It will combine as a global hub for aviation.”

New codeshare destinations with Emirates and flydubai EmiratEs and flydubai have United States to South Asian destinations. built on the early success of their “This partnership is an unprecedented partnership by adding 16 additional opportunity for both airlines to unleash codeshare destinations. the combined power of their networks, The expanded network now includes offering travellers greater choice and sought-after destinations such as flexibility when planning their trips.” Zanzibar, Kathmandu and Kilimanjaro, Ghaith Al Ghaith, Chief Executive all of which Emirates’ passengers can Officer at flydubai, added, “The many now travel to on a single ticket. benefits of Dubai’s international “We are thrilled with the positive aviation hub have been recognised response from travellers,” said Emirates by travellers who have already shown President, Sir Tim Clark. “Nearly 14,000 that they are keen to explore the world sectors have been ticketed during the together. The latest announcement first week of operation, surpassing our will allow them to discover another expectations. We have witnessed strong 16 destinations as well as enjoy the demand for travel from Europe and the unique personality of each airline.”

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OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 76 11/22/17 3:05 PM Experience Polynesia in the heart of Dubai Parks and Resorts

Step into an exciting world of curiosity with an unforgettable stay at Lapita, a unique gateway to the endless fun and enjoyment on offer at Dubai Parks and Resorts. Create moments to treasure with friends and family when you stay within Polynesian inspired rooms with complimentary theme park tickets,* bond over a meal at amazing restaurants or unwind at the Lapita lazy river. Exactly like nothing else.

Book now at lapitadubaihotel.com Tel +971 4 810 9999

Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts, Autograph Collection Hotels Dubai Parks and Resorts, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 334221, Dubai, UAE LapitaHotel | LapitaHotel | LapitaHotelDubai

*Terms and conditions apply The new height of luxury With a design inspired by the Mercedes-Benz S-Class, Emirates’ new First Class suites take luxury and privacy to the next level, all as part of its Boeing 777 fleet upgrade across all classes

ultimate privacy it’s inspired by with fully enclosed mercedes-benZ private suites Your First Class suite Your luxurious private reflects the design suite is 7ft long, with philosophy of the floor-to-ceiling doors Mercedes-Benz S-Class, reaching up to 6ft 9in uniting two global brands high. Each suite offers up renowned for innovation, to 40sq ft of thoughtfully luxury, and comfort. It’s a designed privacy, partnership that extends meaning you can truly to your complimentary feel at home. chauffeur-drive service.

order room service game-changing via video call virtual windows Dining is on demand, so Don’t worry; private suites order at any time during in the middle row have the flight via video call virtual windows, so you from your suite. Your can admire the view à la carte multi-course regardless of where you meal is prepared by top sit – an exclusive feature international chefs. to Emirates.

your seat is enjoy the world’s inspired by nasa finest wines for optimal The airline’s world-class comfort wine programme takes Enjoy a “zero gravity” the finest wines from the setting inspired by NASA most prestigious wine- technology for maximum producing regions around relaxation. The seat also the globe. This means converts to traditional you’ll be served some the positions using the most exclusive wines, wireless control. champagnes and spirits.

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The enTerTainmenT Your headphones is even beTTer are nexT level The 32-inch full HD The Active Noise LCD screen, linked to Cancelling E1 Emirates’ award-winning headphones from ice inflight entertainment Bowers & Wilkins were system, has next-gen created exclusively tech, with improved for Emirates, and use image, touchscreen a unique hybrid noise and LED backlight. It’s cancellation technology perfect for watching optimised specifically for our 2,500 channels of the Emirates First Class entertainment. cabins.

be inspired You can reallY Each suite has an check ouT The view Inspiration Kit that If you’d like to find includes a Byredo out what’s happening skincare range that was down below, you can launched exclusively now get a better view in Emirates First class. of the world outside Your kit also includes a your window with notebook and pen to jot the Steiner Safari down stories, memories binoculars that are and ideas. available in your suite.

freshen up wiTh sleep well bulgari ameniTY kiTs Your pyjamas use Hydra Emirates has partnered Active Microcapsule with the luxury Italian Tech. This sees billions brand, Bulgari, to create of capsules applied to exclusive designer kit bags the fabric gently release that include signature naturally-moisturising Bulgari fragrances and Sea Kelp as you move, lotions, along with other keeping your skin pampering essentials. hydrated during the flight.

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OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 79 11/22/17 3:05 PM BrisBane From december 1, emirates will operate a third daily service to Brisbane. here’s our guide to the capital of Queensland

The Third-largesT ciTy in Australia and one of the country’s oldest metropolitan areas, Brisbane is a lush, colourful and welcoming metropolis. It is also the capital of Queensland and one of Australia’s most up-and-coming cities, replete with gleaming high rises, rooftop bars, art galleries and fashionable restaurants. Indeed, a level of big-city sophistication has been injected into this subtropical urban area, even if Brisbane was once regarded as little more than a bigger-than-usual country town. Now boutique shops, music venues and upscale restaurants are transforming the city. But don’t get too formal just yet. With parks, outdoor attractions and a climate worth moving for, it’s still as easy-going as ever. Traditionally a natural waypoint between the Sunshine Coast to the north and the Gold Coast to the south, the city itself is wrapped around the Brisbane River, while its eastern fringe is lapped by Moreton Bay, one of Queensland’s most important coastal resources. A former penal colony, no doubt Brisbane’s population has heard all the convict jokes before, even if precious few traces of the original settlement remain. What does remain, however, is the city’s distinct Queenslander architecture. These quintessential all-timber buildings have wide verandas designed to catch the breeze, which is understandable considering the city’s climate. Even in winter it rarely drops below the early 20s, with Brisbane enjoying hot, humid summers and dry, moderately warm winters. Which naturally befits the capital of the ‘Sunshine State’.

Operated by a Boeing 777-200LR, Emirates’ new third daily service to Brisbane launches on December 1. Flight EK430 departs Dubai at 22:20hrs, arriving in Brisbane at 18:35hrs the following day. The return flight EK431 departs Brisbane at 22:25hrs, arriving in Dubai at 07:00hrs the following day.

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OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 80 11/22/17 3:05 PM DESTINATION

E’CCO BISTRO URBANE HIMALAYAN CAFE E’cco was first There’s a screen Situated in Brunswick opened in 1995 by of bronze mesh at Street, you’d be hard Philip Johnson, one Urbane, designed to pressed to miss the of the country’s most provide diners with Himalayan Cafe. celebrated chefs, privacy from the Painted bright red with and refurbished outside world. It’s a splashes of yellow and in 2014. Situated nice touch and one blue, it is one of the in a converted tea that Argentinian chef city’s most popular warehouse, it places Alejandro Cancino culinary destinations flavour and produce takes pride in. What’s and a hive of lamps above all else, more, the restaurant’s and spices. Try the serving seasonal globally-influenced Nepalese goat stew Mediterranean and menu revels in taste or its famous Sherpa Asian-inspired and seasonal produce, chicken – the place contemporary with a dash of is perfect for an Australian dishes. experimentation. alternative night out. eccobistro.com.au urbanerestaurant.com +61 7 3358 4015

SPICERS THE NEW INCHCOLM NEXT HOTEL BRISBANE BALFOUR HOTEL HOTEL & SUITES There’s a lot to be A charming and A two-minute walk said for being central elegant boutique hotel from Central Station, to the action, and if with 17 rooms housed this elegantly-crafted being in the thick of inside a traditional boutique hotel is a it is what you require Queenslander 50-room, heritage- from a hotel, then look mansion; Spicers listed treat. Originally no further. The Next Balfour Hotel is in the built in 1880, with the Hotel is literally in fashionable suburb current neo-Georgian the heart of Brisbane. of New Farm. Not far four-storey structure With an entrance onto from the city centre dating from the the Queen Street Mall and enjoying shaded 1920s, the building and access to shops, courtyards, a gourmet was transformed into cinemas, restaurants restaurant and a a hotel in 1998 and and bars, everything is rooftop bar, it’s hard is both luxurious and little more than a short not to be impressed. rather stylish. stroll away. spicersretreats.com inchcolm.com.au nexthotels.com

SOUTH BANK GALLERY OF STORY BRIDGE Any visit to Brisbane MODERN ART ADVENTURE CLIMB is best started in the Situated in the South If you don’t mind South Bank district, Bank area, the Gallery heights and are which hugs the south of Modern Art is home partial to a spot of bank of the Brisbane to contemporary adventure, then River and is filled art from Australia, this is for you. Not with 17 hectares of Asia and the Pacific only does standing parklands, restaurants, and is adjacent to on top of Brisbane’s cafes, bars, boutiques, the Queensland Art iconic steel cantilever museums and Gallery. Both form a bridge get the blood galleries. There’s even single institution, with flowing, but it also the Wheel of Brisbane a combined collection offers wonderful (a 197-foot tall Ferris of over 17,000 works views of the city, the wheel) and a man- of historical, modern river, and out towards made beach. and contemporary art. Moreton Bay. visitbrisbane.com.au qagoma.qld.gov.au sbac.net.au

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OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 81 11/22/17 3:05 PM Comfort

Comfort in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

Smart Traveller

DRink plEnTY TRAvEl WEAR usE skin kEEp mAkE shARps of WATER lighTlY glAssEs moisTuRisER moving YouRsElf BoxEs Rehydrate Carry only Cabin air is Apply a Exercise comfoRTABlE Sharps boxes with water the essential drier than good quality your lower Loosen are available or juices items that normal, moisturiser to legs and calf clothing, onboard all frequently. you will therefore ensure your muscles. This remove Emirates flights Drink tea need during swap your skin doesn’t encourages jacket for safe disposal and coffee in your flight. contact dry out. blood flow. and avoid of medical moderation. lenses for anything equipment. glasses. pressing Please ask a against member of your body. your cabin crew for more information.

BEfoRE YouR JouRnEY AT ThE AiRpoRT DuRing ThE flighT WhEn You ARRivE Consult your doctor before Allow yourself plenty of Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise, travelling if you have time for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long bags through the airport and descent. journey, or if you suffer and onto the flight as this Babies and young from a respiratory or can place the body under passengers may suffer cardiovascular condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any departures try and relax as providing a dummy. vaccinations or special much as possible. Get as comfortable as medications? possible when resting Get a good night’s rest and turn frequently. before the flight. Avoid sleeping for Eat lightly and sensibly. long periods in the same position.

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Guide to US customs & immigration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle- free as possible.

All passengers arriving into the US need to Customs Declaration Form complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta

nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* Subject to change ** Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.

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www.moorﬁelds.ae/dubai

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Moorfields Eye Hospital Dubai is the first overseas branch of Moorfields London, the oldest eye hospital in the world. We are one of the few medical facilities in the UAE licensed by the General Civil Aviation Authority to apply the rigorous eye screening tests for pilots and air traffic controllers required to ensure your comfort and safety. We have a dedicated team of consultants who are highly qualified in assessing Aviation professionals and authorised to certify them as fit-to-fly from a vision perspective.

Our experienced Consultant Ophthalmologists deliver the same exceptional standard of MOH BM76019 screening, diagnosis and treatment to all of our patients. We provide the full spectrum of eye care services from simple eye tests to complex eye surgery including LASIK, glaucoma, cataracts, lazy eye, squints, corneal, ocluoplastics and retinal eye diseases associated with diabetes, as well as uveitis treatment, ocular oncology consultations and genetic eye disease testing and counselling.

Your eyesight is very precious, if you or any of your family have any concerns, please contact us today as early detection and treatment can prevent more lasting and serious consequences.

For more information visit www.moorﬁelds.ae/dubai, or call +971 4 429 7888 today to book your appointment.

LASIK CATARACT COSMETIC PAEDIATRIC OPHTHALMOLOGY RETINA CORNEA GLAUCOMA STRABISMUS VISA GUIDE

Cut the queue at JFK with Quick Connect If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs And Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow these steps 1 2 3 4 Have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting Connect card. Continue to the claim your baggage and clear final destination, hand it to flight ready for the ground Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of Emirates staff at the transfer staff as you exit. Arrivals Hall. your final destination. counter for your onward flight.

Quarantine in Australia

Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

Quarantine in Japan

Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:

• You have recently been to a livestock farm • Are bringing livestock products into Japan • Your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock

The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 86 11/22/17 3:05 PM AMERICAN HOSPITAL DUBAI PLASTIC, RECONSTRUCTIVE AND COSMETIC SURGERY

LOOK BETTER, FEEL BETTER, BE BETTER.

American Hospital Dubai’s new Plastic Surgery Department thrives on the same high standards as the hospital and prides itself on integrity, quality and safety.

We offer a comprehensive plastic, reconstructive, and cosmetic surgery services:

• Hand Surgery (Trauma & Elective) • Burn Repair Surgery • Breast Reconstruction (following mastectomy) • Skin Cancer Management • Cosmetic Surgery (Body, Breast, & Face)

Please visit our website for the complete list of procedures

To book an appointment, please call +971 4 377 5500 or visit www.ahdubai.com MOHAP - OQ40104 - 26/02/2018 MOHAP - OQ40104

American Hospital Dubai accepts most major health insurance plans, please call (+971) 800 - 5500 UAE SMART GUIDE

Be Smart! Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

Using UAE Smart Gate is easy GATES SMART CAN USE UAE THAT NATIONALITIES

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to 1 be scanned

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card 2 into the card slot

OK! Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the ﬂoor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When ﬁnished, the 3 next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration ofﬁcer. That’s it! Every time you ﬂy to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your

way just minutes after you have landed. *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling • Machine-readable passports from through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a the above countries matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at • E-Gate cards all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three • Emirates ID cards terminals at DXB.

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OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 88 11/22/17 3:05 PM INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP

MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST.

A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae MOH MH52817-30.9.18 90 / OPEN SKIES

OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 90 11/22/17 3:05 PM ROUTE MAP

TRAVEL TO ADDITIONAL DESTINATIONS WITH OUR CODESHARE PARTNERS With 22 codeshare partners in 25 countries (21 airlines and an Air/Rail codeshare arrangement with France’s SNCF/ TGV Air), Emirates has even more flight options, effectively expanding its network by over 300 destinations. Visit emirates.com for full details on our travel partners for full details on our travel Visit emirates.com

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OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 92 11/22/17 3:05 PM emirates advocates.pdf 1 12/21/16 6:31 PM

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS C REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS M MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE Y DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS CM LEGAL TRANSLATION MY DEBT COLLECTION CY TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION CMY PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT K

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI JABEL ALI TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 [email protected] [email protected] SHARJAH INTERNET CITY TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 [email protected] [email protected] RAS AL KHAIMAH TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 [email protected]

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Emirates Fleet Our fleet of 271 aircraft includes 257 passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 102 IN FLEET This month: 1 arriving All aircraft

20+ aircraft Up to 489-615 passengers. Range: 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

More Live TV equipped aircraft coming soon

BOEING 777-300ER 139 IN FLEET This month: 2 arriving All aircraft

100+ aircraft

Up to 354-428 passengers. Range: 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR 10 IN FLEET All aircraft

Up to 266 passengers. Range: 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-300 5 IN FLEET All aircraft emirates.com/ourfleet emirates.com/ourfleet Up to 364 passengers. Range: 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m For more information: more For

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OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 96 11/22/17 3:05 PM OS82.P73-97_Briefing.indd 97 Range: 9,260km.L63.7mxW64.8m Up to 19passengers.Range:7,000km.L33.84mxW34.1m Range: 9,204km.L70.6mxW64.4m HERE’S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT ANDSERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ONBOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE Live TV,news Shower Spa First Class & sport * First Class and Business Class;**Available in all rows inEconomy Class, and inall seats inFirst Class and Business Class *Onboard lounge Wi-Fi **In-seat Mobile phone power roaming Data USB port Number of telephone channels In-seat 1 INFLEET 13 INFLEET BOEING 777F EMIRATES SKYCARGO allows thecarriageoflongpieces. in thebelly-holdofpassengeraircraft. The nosedoor oversized shipmentsthatcannotbeaccommodated of approximately three metres, allowstheupliftof tonnes. The deck-sidecargo door, withaheight This aircraft upto iscapableofcarrying 117 1 INFLEET BOEING 747 ERF EMIRATES SKYCARGO non-stop on10-hoursector lengths. uptocapable ofcarrying 103tonnes ofcargo accommodate oversized consignments, itisalso with itswidemain-deckcargo doorwhichcan any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along operated today, withthelowestfuelburnof The mostenvironmentally-friendly freighter at the flexibilityofprivate jettravel. information Further ofourcustomised A319aircraftutmost comfort with personally around theworld.Flyupto 19guestsinthe exceptional to service thehighestlevel to flyyou The Emirates Executive Private Jettakes our AIRBUS A319 emirates-executive.com OPEN/ SKIES FLEET 11/22/17 3:05 PM 97

Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS

David Guetta’s GUIDE TO PARIS Each month, the great and good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, a superstar DJ from France

WORDS: Emma Coiler

People don’t need me to tell them the major sights of Paris – they’re among the most famous in the world. My advice is to just fall in love with the city. Paris is one of the most unique places in the PARIS 2.3522° E 2.3522°

48.8566° N N 48.8566° world – walk around, get lost, drink coffee, stop for wine and just watch Paris and its people go by. If you’re looking for a family day out, then Disneyland Paris isn’t far outside the city; for older kids we have some of the most iconic museums in the world, and now we also have one of the best football teams in Europe – Paris St Germain. Go see Neymar play. If you’re sightseeing, then the Eiffel Tower will always be the Eiffel Tower. Of course, it’s not even close to being among the tallest buildings in the world anymore, but you can’t replicate the romance of it. For part of the Euro 2016 celebrations I played a set beneath it and the show was electric – so the place has special memories for me. In my opinion, Paris comes alive after dark. There is so much to do in this city during the day but the magic, the beauty, and of course the clubbing, all happen at night. If you’re looking to sort out your New Year’s Eve plans, then Le Queen is a Paris institution. Now this place is busy anytime, but on New Year’s Eve it’ll be crazy. It’s also home to some very talented DJs and as close to the iconic 1990s Parisian clubbing scene as you are going to get. To recover after the big night, head for brunch at Les Bains. This was a nightclub until 2011 – and in the 1980s and ’90s it was probably the most famous one in all of Paris. I’ve played there and seen everybody from David Bowie to The Rolling Stones partying. The city shut it down, but it’s now open as a hotel – with the club now in the basement. They know their clientele – they serve breakfast until late in the afternoon. After some food here you should be ready to party again.

THE DETAILS ENJOY Disneyland Paris | Marne-la-Vallée NEW YEAR’S EVE Le Queen | Champs-Élysées SEE Eiffel Tower | Champ De Mars RECOVERY Le Bains | Rue du Bourg l’Abbé PARIS

Emirates offers 20 weekly A380 flights to Paris.

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WE ALL SEARCH FOR NEW WORLDS

But how do we ﬁnd them? First, we used maps, books and astrolabes. Now, we turn to cinemas and satellites.

As tools of exploration revealed the mysteries of our world, with the stars as guides to the borders of the oceans, we also searched within ourselves. Could exploration create a map for the mind and soul, and lead us to purpose and belonging? We’re still discovering.

Within the museum’s twelve chapters, experience the many ways our common consciousness converges throughout art and history.

PLAN YOUR VISIT Young Emir Studying, Osman Hamdy Bey, Turkey, Istanbul (?) 1878 Oil on canvas, Louvre Abu Dhabi © Louvre Abu Dhabi / APF Astrolabe, Muhammad ibn Ahmad Al-Battuti, North Africa, Morocco (?) 1726–1727 Cast brass, silver nails Louvre Abu Dhabi © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Thierry Ollivier Folding screens showing the arrival of Portuguese merchants in Japan, Japan, About 1625, Ink, colours and gold on paper, Louvre Abu Dhabi © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Thierry Ollivier louvreabudhabi.ae Evening safari. Private dinner. Close encounters. Unforgettable.

The Platinum Card® with its renewed travel and lifestyle privileges comes with a US$ 300 Travel Voucher* to enrich an already exquisite experience. Get your Platinum Card and prepare yourself for some truly memorable encounters.

Visit | americanexpress.com.bh/openskies

Call : (+973) 1755 7788

*Terms & conditions apply. This Card is issued by AMEX (Middle East) B.S.C. (c) pursuant to a license from American Express. American Express is a registered trademark of American Express. AMEX (Middle East) B.S.C. (c) – Emirates is regulated and licensed by the Central Bank of the UAE. AMEX (Middle East) B.S.C. (c) is regulated and licensed by the Central Bank of Bahrain as a Financing Company.