caféeuropa THE VOICE OF THE SPECIALITY COFFEE ASSOCIATION OF EUROPE AUTUMN 2015

PAUL STACK SCAE’s new President talks growth, succession and alignment with the SCAA

GOTHENBURG REPORT The Champions, The Products, The Parties

ISSUE 61

WOMEN IN COFFEE + WATER RESEARCH + ROSS KOPI + COLAB + PERNILLA OLOW-GARD At Host 2015 we’ve got something different planned.

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150730_DallaCorte_Advert_HostTeaser.indd 1 30/07/2015 12:09 Inside ISSUE 61 | AUTUMN 2O15

04 Welcome David Veal details the exciting activities planned by SCAE this autumn

06 Community The ‘Who’s Who’ of SCAE

10 Update Latest news from Europe’s coffee community

16 Calendar Dates for your diary

18 Product News Hot products from 30 SCAE members

20 Research Does water quality matter? SCAE commissioned research to find out

24 BGE Barista Camp is Coming

26 Cover Story Paul Stack discusses alignment with SCAA and his plans for his presidency

30 World of Coffee Gothenburg report

41 Women in Coffee Women are taking 24 on more prominent roles in coffee and the IWCA is there to support them

46 Interview Matthew Ross talks to Andra Vlaicu about civets, Ross Kopi, and overcoming kopi luwak’s bad reputation

50 Learning Rashel Winn reports from CoLab: Prague

54 Q&A We catch up with Pernilla 26 10 Olow-Gard, daMatteo Marketing Manager and Nordic World of Coffee Local Project Manager

Find Us Online Read the digital edition on scae.com 46 54

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 3 WELCOME A great time to be part of our speciality coffee community David Veal

our quality assurance programme, which ensures the integrity, transparency and quality of Coffee Diploma System. We recently signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the Coffee Quality Institute whereby we will work together on Q grading in Europe and Coffee Diploma System in producing countries. Allied to education our research programmes are taking off and several challenging papers will be published over the next few months. Our new partnership agreement with Grounds for Health and the International Women's Coffee Alliance are beginning to work now and we will continue to work together with our existing partners, specifically the Brazilian Specialty Coffee The SCAE team at the Nordic World of Coffee welcome reception Association. We have many other initiatives and ell, wasn’t World of Coffee As we all know, World of Coffee moves activities happening over the next few in Gothenburg a great to Dublin next year and all of the signs months including delivering sensory experience? All of us who indicate that it too will be a success. As an training to young people in Rwanda, Wwere there – and there were example, we sold 68% of our exhibition offering barista skills training in UK prisons, nearly 5,000 of us – had a truly outstanding space for Dublin while we were in and supporting the next Barista & Farmer week whatever our reasons for attending, Gothenburg. event at the beginning of 2016, as well and there were more reasons than ever to Moreover, after a very long bidding as organising field trips in Brazil and visit the event this year. process we have recently selected the Indonesia later this year. Barista Guild We were also able to report at our AGM venues for the following three World of of Europe will hold its second Camp held in Gothenburg what a successful Coffees. In 2017 we will go to the beautiful in Riccione, Italy in September and the year 2014 was for SCAE, with membership city of Budapest and we hope to be able second CoLab in Paris in November. expanding by 1,600 new members and to support and grow our membership in Look out soon also for news of our new our education programme continuing the east of Europe as a result of this. Roasters’ Guild. to grow. The year 2018 will see us head back to Finally, for those interested in ibrik coffee we are currently in the process of Initiatives planned for the next few months include planning the 2016 World Championships which will be held in Gulfood, Dubai in delivering sensory training to young people in Rwanda, February 2016. offering barista skills training in UK prisons, and supporting At SCAE we constantly seek to add to and enhance the benefits that we offer the next Barista & Farmer event at the beginning of 2016, our members and some of the above activities are just a part of that. It is a as well as organising field trips in Brazil and Indonesia great time, therefore, to be part of our later this year. Keep an eye out also for Barista Camp, fantastic speciality coffee community and there are so many good reasons to be a CoLab Paris and our new Roasters’ Guild. member of SCAE. If you’re not a member already, please join us, and if you are – In the last issue of Café Europa I wrote the Netherlands and Amsterdam, a tier one invite someone else to join. You can find that the future starts in Gothenburg city, which will make an excellent host for out how to become a member on our so I’d like to talk about the future now. World of Coffee, and in 2019 we will go to website, scae.com. Most people know that we are talking Berlin which, as most people know, is not to the Specialty Coffee Association of only a vibrant and developing city, but also America (SCAA) regarding the alignment has a great speciality coffee culture. David Veal of our activities and these talks should be We’re looking to further develop our concluded by early next year, at which point education programme in the coming Executive Director we should have some proposals to share. months, both in terms of content and Speciality Coffee Association of Europe

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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 5 SIGNPOST

SCAE BOARD OF DIRECTORS SCAE EXECUTIVE TEAM President David Veal, Executive Director Paul Stack (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems Penny Hayward, Personal Assistant to Executive Director Membership Team

Past President Jayne Richards, Membership Manager Cosimo Libardo (Italy), Toby Estates Jackie Malone, Chapter Coordinator Isa Verschraegen, BGE Coordinator Alison Wraight, Membership Advisor Vice President Leanne Celentano, Membership Coordinator Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece), W.S. Karoulias Lewis Young, Data Analyst Lesley Potts, Membership Accounts Clerk Robyn Stevenson, Membership Administrator Executive Director Anna Barlow, Retention Officer David Veal (UK), SCAE Education Team Susan Hollins, Education Manager Annemarie Tiemes, Education Field Manager Drewry Pearson (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems Kim Staalman, Education Field Coordinator Owen Thom, Quality Coordinator Megan Guo, Asia Coordinator Aidan Jones, Education Administrator Nils Erichsen (Germany), Ube Erichsen Beteiliungs Kay Bennett, Education Administrator Alex Morrell, Education Administrator Events Team

Garret Buckley, Events Manager Heinz Trachsel (Switzerland) Jens Henrik Thomsen, Sponsorship Coordinator Marketing Team James Humpoletz, Marketing Manager Luigi Morello (Italy), La Cimbali Andra Vlaicu, Marketing Assistant Richard Stiller, Marketing Assistant Keith Amos, Business Development Executive

Ludovic Maillard (France), Maison Jobin Operations Team David Hewitt, Operations Manager Denise Alborough, Senior Accounts Clerk Ellen Rogers, Accounts Clerk Johan Damgaard (Sweden), Johan & Nyström Caroline Newman, Accounts Clerk SCAE COMMITTEES

Membership Committee Alberto Polojac (Italy), Imperator Yannis Apostolopoulos, Chair Heinz Trachsel, Vice Chair Luigi Morello Christina Meinl (Austria), Julius Meinl Tomasz Obracaj Andrew Tolley Tibor Hajcsunk Dale Harris Frank Neuhausen (Germany), BWT water+more Isa Verschraegen David Veal Jayne Richards Education Committee Chahan Yeretzian (Switzerland), University of Zurich Ludovic Maillard, Chair Paul Stack Paul Meikle-Janney Sonja Björk Grant Patrizia Cecchi (Italy), Rimini Fiera David Locker Edouard Thomas John Thompson David Veal James Shepherd (UK/Ireland), Beyond the Bean Susan Hollins Annemarie Tiemes

Dale Harris (UK), Has Bean

6 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA SCAE COMMUNITY

Events Committee Colin Smith (UK) NORWAY Patrizia Cecchi, Chair Max Fabian (Italy) Storm Xaron C Lunde, Willem Husiman Nils Erichsen (Germany) e: [email protected] Grace O’Shaughnessy Marc Käppelli (Switzerland) PORTUGAL Anke Erichsen Drewry Pearson (Ireland) Claudia Pimentel, Brita Folmer Cosimo Libardo (Italy) e: [email protected] David Veal World Coffee Events POLAND Garret Buckley (Jointly Owned By SCAE/SCAA) Tom Obracaj, Marketing Committee Chair - Mike Yung e: [email protected] Christina Meinl, Chair SCAE Director - David Veal ROMANIA Johan Damgaard SCAA Director - Ric Reinhart Silvia Constantin, Dale Harris Managing Director - Cindy Ludviksen e: [email protected] Treasurer - Drewry Pearson Maurizio Giuli RUSSIA Jörg Krahl NATIONAL COORDINATORS Andrey Elson, David Veal EUROPEAN CHAPTERS e: [email protected] James Humpoletz AUSTRIA SLOVAKIA Audit Committee Günter Stölner, Tomas Callo, Nils Erichsen, Chair e: [email protected] e: [email protected] Mark Rose BELGIUM SPAIN David Veal Kathleen Serdons, Elisabet Sereno, David Hewitt e: [email protected] e: [email protected] International Development Committee BULGARIA SWEDEN Alberto Polojac, Chair Nikolay Litov, Erik Rosendahl Mick Wheeler e: [email protected] e: [email protected] Max Fabian CZECH REPUBLIC SWITZERLAND Colin Smith Stepan Neubauer, Marc Käppeli, Angel Mario Martinez Garcia e: [email protected] e: [email protected] Inyoung Kim (Anna) David Veal DENMARK TURKEY Penny Hayward Lene Hyldahl, Aysin Aydogdu, e: [email protected] e: [email protected] Research Committee FINLAND UNITED KINGDOM Chahan Yeretzian, Chair Viivi Ahtiainen, Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, Morten Munchow, Vice Chair e: [email protected] e: [email protected] Frank Neuhausen Lauro Fioretti FRANCE INTERNATIONAL CHAPTERS Edouard Thomas Patrick Mas, SINGAPORE David Veal e: [email protected] Ross Bright, Penny Hayward GERMANY e: [email protected] OTHER SCAE ORGANISATIONS Peter Muschiol, SOUTH KOREA e: [email protected] SCAE President’s Council Seongil Choi, GREECE e: [email protected] President Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos, REGIONAL COORDINATORS Paul Stack (Ireland) e: [email protected] Past President Sonja Grant, HUNGARY e: [email protected] Cosimo Libardo (Italy) János Szongoth, Vice President e: [email protected] Tibor Hajcsunk, e: [email protected] Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece) ICELAND Treasurer Jan-Fredrik Winter, Heinz Trachsel, Nils Erichsen (Germany) e: [email protected] e: [email protected] Executive Director IRELAND David Veal (UK) Alan Andrews, SCAEWorldofCoffee Drewry Pearson (Ireland) e: [email protected] SCAE Ambassadors ITALY SCAE_Community Dario Ciarlantini SCAE has named the following e: [email protected] Past Presidents of the Association SCAEWorldofCoffee as its Ambassadors: LITHUANIA Darius Vezelis, SCAE_Community Alf Kramer (Norway) e: [email protected] Patrick Bewley (Ireland) Mick Wheeler (UK) NETHERLANDS SCAE_Community Trygve Klingenberg (Norway) Peter Eijl, e: peter@doppio-espresso.nl Tomasz Obracaj (Poland) SCAE

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 7 SIGNPOST

WE HAVE…

3,000 Members

30 National Chapters No.61 | Autumn 2015

7 Publisher: Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) World Champions Oak Lodge Farm, Leighams Road, Bicknacre, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 4HF, UK T: + 44 1245 426060 | E: [email protected] 635 Editor: Sarah Grennan Authorised SCAE Trainers Contributors: Kelle Vandenberg, David Veal, Isa Verschraegen, Andra Vlaicu, Dr Marco Wellinger, Rashel Winn, Prof. Chahan Yeretzian 350 Design: Mark Nally Coffee Diplomas Awarded Printed by: Metro Commercial Printing

© Copyright 2015, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe

35,000 Café Europa (Print) ISSN 1752-8429 Coffee Diploma Café Europa (Online) ISSN 1752-8437 System Certificates Issued

Speciality Coffee Association of Europe is a company limited by guarantee registered in United Kingdom, Co. Reg. No. 3612500. 17,500 Copies of the SCAE by-laws are available by written request. Certified Baristas VAT Reg. No. GB 894 2009 15.

17 Views expressed in Café Europa do not necessarily represent those years' experience inspiring of its Editor, the Communications Committee or the Publisher, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe. coffee excellence

Articles and contributions by members are invited; Our vision is to be the authority please contact Sarah Grennan, Editor on delivering coffee excellence. E: [email protected] T: + 353 87 686 1272 Our mission is to create and inspire excellence in the coffee community through innovation, research, For rates and information about advertising in Café Europa please download the SCAE Media Pack at scae.com. education and communication. For further details and to book your advertisement, please contact Keith Amos, Business Development Executive Our values are excellence, knowledge, E: [email protected] leadership, integrity, communication, competence, education and community. T: +44 1245 426060

Join us and help us raise coffee standards in Stay Connected: Europe and across the world. SCAEWorldofCoffee SCAE_Community Learn more about the benefits of membership at www.scae.com SCAE_Community SCAE_Community or email [email protected] SCAEWorldofCoffee SCAE

On the Cover

Join our coffee community Join our coffee SCAE President, Paul Stack, pictured at Coffeeangel SAS, Dublin. Image: Jason Clarke. Special thanks to Karl Purdy for allowing Café Europa to take over his café on a busy afternoon in Dublin.

8 | SPRINGWINTER 20142013/20142014 || CAFÉCAFÉ | EUROPANO.EUROPA 54 8 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA SIGNPOST

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 9 UPDATE Celebrate the World’s Best Beverage on International Coffee Day

The 74 member states of the International Coffee Organisation (ICO), together with 26 coffee associations around the world – including SCAE – are joining forces to celebrate the first ever International Coffee Day this autumn.

On Thursday, 1 October, coffee lovers Ideas include: around the world can come together • ‘Buy one, get one free’ or to celebrate the world’s best-loved ‘buy a second cup for a cent’ beverage. promotions The first International Coffee Day, • Raising coffee seedlings and organised by the ICO, will champion giving them away for free or the coffee sector’s diversity, quality for a nominal price on the day and passion, and will provide coffee • Selling coffee-related jewellery aficionados with an opportunity to or merchandise support the millions of farmers around the • Inviting your local radio station to To order your free International Coffee Day poster world whose livelihoods depend on this broadcast from your business. please email [email protected] popular bean. SCAE’s marketing team are gearing up SCAE has got behind the event, for the occasion, planning a busy social creating a logo and posters for members media campaign to celebrate the first ever to display in their cafés and premises, International Coffee Day. ‘We would love and the Association is encouraging the to hear what our members have planned EVENT GUIDE community to reach out to consumers on for the day,’ says James Humpoletz, SCAE this very special day. Marketing Manager. ‘Let us know how you ‘The event provides you with a will celebrate and we will do our best to 1 OCTOBER great opportunity to creatively engage help publicise it.’ #INTERNATIONALCOFFEEDAY with your customers and encourage The Association is planning a series of them to celebrate the day with you,’ events across Europe to mark the occasion. explains David Veal, SCAE’s Executive Stay tuned to scae.com for more information Director. and email [email protected] to order your free coffee poster. SCAE and CQI Partner on Coffee Education As part of its mission to inspire coffee The Association agreed a Memorandum SCAE has agreed to utilise SCAA excellence across the globe, SCAE has of Understanding in July which will see it Certified Teaching Labs for all Q Courses reached an agreement to partner with the work with the CQI in Europe, Africa and when such labs exist in Europe, while CQI Coffee Quality Institute (CQI) on a number Asia. will endeavour to develop programmes of key educational initiatives. Under the terms of the Memorandum, and funding sources jointly with SCAE, SCAE and CQI will work together to particularly technical courses at origin. promote and manage CQI’s Q Grader The two organisations will appoint an Training Programme in Europe. This Educational Development Liaison officer to includes, but is not limited to, CQI’s Pre-Q, harmonise and align training activities and calibrations and Q courses, including the Q course programming. Robusta programmes. ‘This agreement will provide significant SCAE will only use CQI approved Q benefits to our members, offering greater Instructors to deliver all Q educational access to Q educational programmes programmes and, in a preliminary pilot in Europe and allowing us to work phase, SCAE will work with a group of closely with our CQI partners at origin,’ core Q Instructors to help them become explains David Veal. ‘Our mission is AST's as quickly as possible. When feasible, to inspire coffee excellence through CQI and SCAE will cooperate on specific education, research and innovation, projects at origin, mainly in Africa and Asia, and this new Memorandum of SCAE President, Paul Stack, and Executive Director, David Veal, sign where the Q Instructors can also deliver Understanding is another great step to help the Memorandum of Understanding with the Coffee Quality Institute SCAE modules and certification. us achieve that.’

10 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA UPDATE

announce our host cities for the next three years,’ comments David. ‘The response from Stands Selling Out at the successful cities has been overwhelming, with guarantees that the World of Coffee Europe event will be able to continue World of Coffee Dublin growing as one of the world’s best speciality Over 70% of the exhibition space available at next year’s World of Coffee event coffee shows. in Dublin has sold and the organisers are reporting strong demand for ‘Having seen some excellent potential host the remaining stands. cities throughout this process, we are very happy with our final choices. It demonstrates the true character and determination of the speciality coffee community that we are able to take World of Coffee to an Eastern European country for the first time, and we have no doubt that SCAE members over the world will be delighted with the cultural diversity our chosen cities reflect.’ World of Coffee is being hosted in Amsterdam for the first time, and in the Dublin is getting ready to welcome the global coffee community next June. Will you be there? Image: Fáilte Ireland Netherlands for only the second time. It will also Bookings for the event in the Irish capital, of Coffee in Dublin. Plans for next year’s show be Berlin’s first opportunity to host the show. which will also feature the 2016 World are already at an advanced stage and we are ‘We would like to express our sincere Barista Championship and World Brewers confident that it is going to be the biggest event thanks and appreciation for all the cities that Cup, opened at the Nordic World of Coffee in World of Coffee’s history.’ entered a bid to host our World of Coffee in Gothenburg where exhibitors quickly World of Coffee is SCAE’s flagship event, event, and hope that we can count on their snapped up 68% of the available stands. bringing thousands of coffee professionals support in future years when we re-open the ‘We were delighted with the response from together for a three-day celebration of tender process for hosting the event in 2020 our existing exhibitors in Gothenburg, many coffee each June. The event moves to a and beyond,’ David Veal added. ‘The next of whom have already signed up to join us in different European city each year and this step is to decide which competitions we will Dublin next year,’ says David Veal, Executive August SCAE announced the host cities for take to these three events, and this decision Director of SCAE. ‘The fact that so many coffee 2017-2019. In 2017, World of Coffee goes to will be made in the next few months.’ community suppliers return to the event year Budapest, in 2018 it will be held in Amsterdam To keep up to date with the latest news after year is a testament to its success. We are and in 2019 the event moves to Berlin. on World of Coffee and to download also hugely excited to see a number of new ‘We are pleased and excited that after the brochure and floorplan, please visit exhibitors joining us for the first time at World such a strong tender process, we can now worldofcoffee-dublin.com.

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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 11 bri-all-15-1005_ionox_scae_europa_185x128_rz2.indd 1 10.04.15 14:43 UPDATE Meet, Learn, Develop and Grow as a BGE Member ISA VERSCHRAEGEN explains why Barista Guild of Europe (BGE) needs your vote this autumn.

From the outset BGE has been an organisation formed of baristas within a community, hoping to extend the reach and opportunities to a wider group. From our very first conversations about what the group could be, ideas of democracy, inclusivity, and representation Put your hand up for BGE. Vote in the elections from 23 September have been raised. to 9 October. Image: Jordan Sanchez At our first event (Barista Camp 2014 in Athens), the Working Group presented a vision or membership of any organisation, but in to see us through the course of the next year, order to make a voting system work, we of which a key point was to create a structure need to have a system of determining what for the leadership of BGE that allowed makes a member and what allows them members to choose its future direction. to vote. This raised a number of challenges, BGE was created by SCAE to serve the starting with ‘Who are our members?' needs of a core area of its membership: As we thought deeper and longer about the barista community. SCAE realised that where we needed to go, we saw questions a vehicle that allowed baristas themselves about ownership, leadership, finance, to determine the scope and activities of elections, and structure, all of which this organisation would assist the growth became paramount to answer. of a stronger coffee community. While our We are pleased to say that with a great event financing comes from sponsorship deal of help, we think we have. Our ‘by- and ticket revenue, our operational costs are laws’ are now publicly available on our funded from SCAE's membership budget. website. We’ve crafted these intentionally As such, all SCAE members belong and to give clarity and structure for our future, are entitled to exercise a right to vote in BGE but freedom for our membership to decide elections. However, there is a challenge in where and what that future is. managing this membership, as individuals The creation and release of these by- working for SCAE member companies Indonesia was the official country producer sponsor at the laws bring us to a couple of key points that don’t necessarily get communicated with Nordic World of Coffee. SCAE is continuing its partnership with the Indonesian Embassy and the Speciality Coffee Association of we'd like to discuss with you: Elections and directly or have access to SCAE login Indonesia by embarking on a field trip to Banda Aceh this November Membership! information. Therefore, we have set the following Working Group Elections criteria to determine BGE membership: Visit Sumatra with SCAE As of this moment, the working group • If you, personally, are a SCAE member of BGE is made up of a small group of (Barista/Professional Individual Following successful field trips to Honduras volunteers who got in touch because categories), your BGE membership is and Brazil, SCAE is heading to Indonesia’s they wanted to be involved in seeing this included in your SCAE membership. Banda Aceh region for its third tour of 2015. initiative grow. We want the next working • If you currently work for a SCAE Running from 15 to 23 November, the trip group to be made up of people who want company member, you can will include visits to farms and coffee processing to drive it to its next stage, chosen by the personally register to become a plants, plus plenty of coffee cuppings. members it hopes to serve. voting member of BGE, at an annual The trip, organised with the help of the From 23 September to 9 October we’ll administration cost of €10. Indonesian Embassy and the Speciality be holding elections that allow members to • If you are not yet a member Coffee Association of Indonesia, is a choose who sits in the working group of BGE of SCAE and would like to join once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit the over 2016. Until 15 September, interested BGE, registering for SCAE barista beautiful coffee plantations of Sumatra. candidates can send in their nomination membership for €75 is equivalent Just 20 places are available on the trip, presenting themselves and the direction in to BGE membership. which costs €650 (excluding flights). To which they would like BGE to move. find out more and to register your interest We're excited that we can give our contact SCAE’s Field Trip Coordinator, Membership members a true voice in our organisation! Colin Smith, at colin.smith@smithcoffee. BGE and its activities are designed to Find out more information on co.uk or Jayne Richards, Membership build community regardless of location baristaguildofeurope.com. Manager, at [email protected].

12 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA UPDATE New Partnership with daMatteo Named Grounds for Health ‘Café of the Year’ SCAE has signed a Memorandum of Understanding with Grounds daMatteo’s café in Magasinsgatan, Gothenburg has been named for Health, the non-governmental organisation which is dedicated Sweden's Café of the Year by White Guide Cafés. to the prevention of cervical cancer in developing countries. The café , owned by Matts Johansson, topped a poll of Sweden’s ‘We're thrilled to be a partner of choice for SCAE,’ said Guy 316 best cafés which are selected for providing experiences Stallworthy, CEO and President of Grounds for Health, at the ‘beyond the ordinary’, says the Guide. signing of the agreement at the Nordic World of Coffee in June. daMatteo impressed judges by creating ‘a meeting place for ‘Foundational social issues, such as women’s healthcare, everyone with heart, expertise and a high level of service, where contribute to the resiliency of coffee-growing communities and, both home roasted coffee and pastries from their own bakery are therefore, the future of the supply chain. We’re looking forward to of an extremely high quality’. working with the SCAE leadership and its members on projects that reinforce the important role of women at origin.’ The three-year collaboration, which commenced in July, will focus on programmes to increase visibility and financial support for Grounds for Health’s work, mutually reinforce each organisation’s mission and expand Grounds for Health’s reach and impact delivering cervical cancer screening and treatment services to women in the coffeelands. The two organisations will work together to identify projects that reflect their shared interest in supply chain sustainability and commitment to improving farmers’ quality of life.

daMatteo’s Magasinsgatan

ECONOMY ECOLOGY ECOBOILER

Guy Stallworthy, CEO and President of Grounds for Health, signs the Memorandum of Understanding with David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE at the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg

In the next 15 years, it is estimated that six million women will die from cervical cancer, despite the fact that it can be easily prevented. Nearly 90% of these deaths will occur in low- and middle-income countries. ‘We know there are more than 750 million women in the developing world who would benefit from our life-saving­ services. Our work with the European coffee community creates a tremendous opportunity to help us reach more of those women,’ said Guy. MARCOBEVERAGESYSTEMS.COM Since the organisation was founded in 1996, Grounds for Health [email protected] has screened more than 53,000 and treated more than 3,200 or call +353 (0)1 295 2674 women living in coffee growing communities in Latin America and Africa. Currently, Grounds for Health supports programmes in Ethiopia, Nicaragua and Peru.

In its quest to support women in coffee, SCAE also signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the International Women’s Coffee Alliance at World of Coffee. See page 40 for more information the partnership and the work of the IWCA.

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 13 UPDATE

Morten Münchow, the trainer, consultant, researcher and Vice Chair of the SCAE Research Committee, has expanded his New CoffeeMind CoffeeMind consultancy business this autumn with the launch of his new CoffeeMind Academy. Morten, who was one of the creators behind SCAE’s hugely Academy to Train ASTs popular Coffee Diploma System, has noticed an increased demand for Authorised SCAE Trainers (ASTs) in Europe and has developed the Academy to help train and certify new ASTs. ‘The Coffee Diploma System has been so successful and there has been such a huge appetite for courses that there is currently a bottleneck for ASTs, especially in the Roasting, Green Coffee and Sensory Skills modules,’ he tells Café Europa. ‘We are focusing on training new trainers at the CoffeeMind Academy and hope to inspire a new generation of coffee educators.’ Located in Copenhagen, the new CoffeeMind Academy provides a training service alongside Morten’s well-established consultancy business. As well as Sensory, Roasting and Green Coffee training and certification from SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System, CoffeeMind Academy provides Sensory Performance training, where sensory scientist Ida Steen can evaluate cuppers’ performances and tailor specific training programmes to undertake ahead of SCAE or Q grader exams. Other services on offer at CoffeeMind include an online one- hour consultancy, providing assistance for startups on a number of topics, including business plans, budgets, workspace, workflow, quality control, green coffee selection, roast profiling and more, plus a Lean Startup programme, where roaster startups can work with CoffeeMind at Kontra’s roaster in Copenhagen to produce and test new product ranges. Morten will also continue to hold Foundation and Intermediate Roasting courses at London School of Coffee, where he has been training since 2007. For more information on CoffeeMind Academy, visit Morten Münchow has launched a new CoffeeMind Academy in Copenhagen coffee-mind.com. Gain Insight into World Competition Judging

Do you have ambitions to become a coffee championship judge? Would you like to know what judges look for when adjudicating at competitions? World Coffee Events is staging a series of education modules in Europe and Asia to provide competition training for aspiring judges, national judges, competitors, or anyone interested in understanding how a competition is judged. The World Competition Education Programme (WCEP) modules provide insight into rules and regulations, score sheets, judges’ stage behaviour and detail the competencies that are tested in WCE’s Judging Certification. Upcoming WCEPs modules include:

9-13 October, St Petersburg, Russia 17-21 October, Milan, Italy 17-20 November, Jakarta, Indonesia 25-29 November, Copenhagen, Denmark 7-11 December, Athens, Greece

To find out more email Annemarie Tiemes, Share [email protected]. Your News Have you a story to tell? Share your news with SCAE. Email [email protected]

Judges score Caleb Cha at the World Latte Art Championship in Gothenburg

14 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA an_cafe_europa_safra2015ai.pdf 1 20/07/15 07:43

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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 15 DIARY Autumn Event Guide SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER

11-13 September 1 October 14-16 October Dublin Coffee & Tea Festival International Coffee Day Hosfair Shenzhen Dublin, Ireland Global Shenzen, China dublincoffeefestival.com ico.org szhosfair.com

30 September- 15-18 October 20-27 September 01 October Biannual IWCA International SCAE Field Trip ICO Global Coffee Forum Convention Brazil Milan, Italy Bogotá, Colombia scae.com ico.org womenincoffee.org

30 September- 23-26 September 02 October 15-18 October Barista Camp SCAJ Conference & Expo Expospeciales Café de Colombia Riccione, Italy Tokyo, Japan Bogotá, Colombia baristaguildofeurope.com/bc15/ scajconference.jp expoespeciales.com

24 September Allegra World Coffee Portal 01-03 October 22-25 October CEO Forum World Tea & Coffee Expo Istanbul Coffee Festival New York, USA Mumbai, India Istanbul, Turkey worldcoffeeportal.com worldteacoffeeexpo.com istanbulcoffeefestival.com

24-26 September 05-08 October 25-27 October Coffeena PIR Expo Host Milano Cologne, Germany Moscow, Russia Milan, Italy euvend-coffeena.com pirexpo.com host.fieramilano.it

06-09 October 27-29 October 25-27 September 4th International Coffee Speciality Fine Food Fair & UAE New York Coffee Festival & Cocoa Festival & Exhibition National Ibrik Championships New York, USA Tehran, Iran Dubai, UAE newyorkcoffeefestival.com coffeexiran.com speciality.ae

16 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA 11-13 September Dublin Coffee & Tea Festival Dublin, Ireland dublincoffeefestival.com

20-27 September SCAE Field Trip Brazil scae.com

L TASTE OF COFFEE! 23-26 September E REA Barista Camp R TH Riccione, Italy FO baristaguildofeurope.com/bc15/

24 September Allegra World Coffee Portal CEO Forum New York, USA worldcoffeeportal.com

24-26 September Coffeena Cologne, Germany euvend-coffeena.com

25-27 September New York Coffee Festival New York, USA newyorkcoffeefestival.com

1 October International Coffee Day Global website to be confirmed

30 September- 01 October ICO Global Coffee Forum Milan, Italy ico.org

Perfect coffee from the only ECBC 30 September- 02 October approved single cup brewer! SCAJ Conference & Expo Tokyo, Japan scajconference.jp

www.technivorm.com

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 17 PRODUCT NEWS Java Republic Flies High Irish roaster, Java Republic, celebrated two big wins with customers and critics recently.

The company landed a contract to supply speciality coffee and tea on board Aer Lingus’ short haul routes in June. Passengers can now enjoy freshly ground coffee from Java Republic which is sealed at the bottom of individual cups for freshness. ‘I’m proud that this partnership is allowing us to put our fresh, hand-roasted, coffee within reach of more people and Mike Rutter, Chief Commercial Officer, Aer Lingus and Grace O’Shaughnessy, Managing Director, Java thus giving them the opportunity to taste the quality coffee Republic, are pictured with Aoife, a member of the Aer Lingus cabin crew, at the announcement that Java experience that we have carefully hand-crafted in our very Republic will supply coffee on-board the Irish air carrier own roastery in Dublin,’ said Grace O’Shaughnessy, Managing Director, Java Republic. While the coffee took to the sky during the summer, the Java Republic team also celebrated winning 10 stars at the UK’s Share Your News Great Taste Awards. Accolades include three stars for its single Email your origin, light roast Rwandan Nyungwe Coffee, plus two stars for brand stories to the Organic Wild Berry Infusion Tea, and one star awards for the company’s Pedra Redonda Coffee, Ponto Alegre Coffee, [email protected] Organic Jasmine Green Tea, Organic Peppermint Tea and Organic Irish Breakfast Tea. Grace commented: ‘To win the only three stars in Ireland this year was wonderful news, but we are over the moon to win seven awards and a total of 10 stars and it’s a testament to the quality and variety of our product range of which we are immensely proud. The win this year brings our total company awards to over 130 and we’re not finished yet!’

See more from Java Republic at javarepublic.com

Move Over Splurty, Say Hello to SP9 The SP9 was a big hit on the Marco Beverage Systems stand at the Nordic World of Coffee, but what’s with the name? ‘Since the launch of FAZE9 we have seen a huge amount of excitement and goodwill from many people in anticipation of Initially introduced as FAZE9, the single serve brewer which what we were doing. However it has come as a surprise how launched in February now goes by the streamlined title, SP9, many people were attached to the prototype name “Splurty”, in homage to its predecessor, the popular Splurty prototype. which was the forerunner of FAZE9. As such I feel that a nod to Marco’s Commercial Director, James Healy, explains: the hard work and dedication that went into moulding “Splurty” ‘As you know Marco introduced a new single cup brewer at CATEX into such an amazing product is in order. We have listened to Dublin and Internorga, Hamburg. The coffee community that had suggestions and agreed on a compromise whereby FAZE9 will be been familiar with project “Splurty” have since been pleading with called SP9 from now on.’ us to retain the name. As Commercial Director for Marco it is my privilege to travel the world and to interact with a wide cross- So there you have it. You can find out more at section of interesting people within the coffee industry. marcobeveragesystems.com.

18 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA CE53 Direct Trade v_02FIN 13-05-13_Cafe Europa 15/05/2013 07:29 Page 23

PRODUCT NEWS New Cropster Platform for COE Alliance for Coffee Excellence (ACE) has announced that it will use Cropster Hub as the auction platform for Cup of Excellence, beginning with the 2016 competitions.

As well as supporting the auction of award-winning Cup of ‘Making the valuable physical and sensory data collected during Excellence coffees, the platform will also provide a new sales the competition available to farmers is a huge priority for ACE, and channel for coffees that reach the final week of the competitions we are committed to developing a feedback system that will allow but do not make it to auction. producers to receive tremendous added benefit from participation The new platform, scheduled to launch later this year, will in the programme,’ said Geoff Watts of Intelligentsia, Chair of the support a cupping form app for jurors at all COE competitions, ACE Board of Directors. ‘We are equally excited about our improved and will also provide data for farmers and buyers, including ability to deliver more detailed farm information and coffee quality moisture and water activity measurements, warehouse data to COE members and auction participants.’ storage information, jury scoring data and COE suggested roasting profiles. Read more about Cropster Hub at cropster.com/hub.

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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 19 RESEARCH WHY DOES WATER:WATER QUALITY WHY QUALITY MATTERS As part of a number of research projectsMATTER? commissioned by SCAE, researchers at the Centre for Analytical & Physical Chemistry in Zurich University investigated howINTRODUCTION the quality of water can WHICH COFFEE? impact coffee’s flavour profile. TheSPECIALITY research COFFEE was led DEPENDS by ON Two freshly roasted coffees were chosen for the research A COMBINATION OF FACTORS THAT experiment: DRINFLUENCES MARCO WELLINGEROVERALL FLAVOUR and PROFILE. PROF.VARIABLES CHAHAN SUCH ASYERETZIAN PROCESSING METHOD, 1) Colombian washed-process caturra and castillo from La Argelia farm, grown at an altitude 1580-1900 m. ofROAST the Zurich DEGREE, University GRIND SIZE, TEMPERATURE, ofPRESSURE, Applied Sciences AND EXTRACTION TIME ALL 2) Brazilian natural-process yellow bourbon, tupi, icatu, inPLAY Wädenswil, A VITAL ROLE Switzerland. IN THE SENSORY RESULT and yellow catuai from Lagoa Formosa grown in the IN THE CUP. Minas Gerais region at an altitude of 1000-1200 m. peciality coffee depends on a combination of factors that influences overall flavour profile. Variables such as But thereprocessing is one method, factor that roast is degree,becoming grind an size,increasingly temperature, WHICH WATER? Simportantpressure, consideration and extraction for time the allindustry play a vitalas a rolewhole in the– and sensorythat isresult water. in theOr tocup. be But more there exact, is one water factor quality. that is Given becoming an thatincreasingly the main important constituent consideration of brewed for coffee the industry is somewhere as a Three types of water were chosen for the analysis. Based wholebetween – and 98that to is 99% water. water, Or to the be restmore being exact, the water mass quality. of soluble on the SCAE/SCAA target standard water recommendation Givenbrewed that the solids main extracted, constituent the of quality brewed of coffeeH O in is the somewhere brew range, a low (soft), medium and high (hard) mineral content between 98 to 99% water, the rest being the mass2 of soluble can truly mean the difference between a ‘good’ and water type were used. brewed solids extracted, the quality of H2O in the brew can truly mean‘great’ the differencecoffee. between a ‘good’ and ‘great’ coffee. While there is overwhelming anecdotal evidence that supports 160 thisWhile view, there is littleoverwhelming published scientific anecdotal research evidence in thethat area so far.supports So, how dothis we view, begin there to quantify is little thepublished impact ofscientific water quality research 140 Zurich fromin thea sensory area so perspective? far. So, how do we begin to quantify the tap water Inimpact a bid toof addresswater quality this question, from a the sensory Speciality perspective? Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) brought together a team of experts at the Centre 120 for Analytical & Physical Chemistry in Zurich, Switzerland, to provide In a bid to address this question, the Speciality Coffee some scientific clarity on how differing water compositions had an 100 impactAssociation on the coffee’s of Europe perceived (SCAE) quality brought on the together cupping a table.team The of experts at the Centre for Analytical and Physical Chemistry in High experiments were designed, conducted and the results analysed by -1 Dr MarcoZurich, Wellinger Switzerland, from toZurich provide University some of scientific Applied Sciences. clarity on how 80 Medium eq * L

differing water compositions had an impact on the coffee’s 3 Which Coffee? perceived quality on the cupping table. The experiments 60 Two freshly roasted coffees were chosen for the research were designed, conducted and the results analysed by Dr. Low experiment:Marco Wellinger from Zurich University of Applied Sciences. 1) Colombian washed-process caturra and castillo from La 40 Filter at zero bypass Argelia farm, grown at an altitude of 1580-1900 m. 2) Brazilian natural-process yellow bourbon, tupi, icatu, and yellow catuai from Lagoa Formosa grown in the Minas Gerais 20 region at an altitude of 1000-1200 m.

Calcium hardness / mg CaCO 0 Which Water? 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 Three types of water were chosen for the analysis. Based on the Alkalinity / mg CaCO eq * L-1 SCAE/SCAA target standard water recommendation range, a low 3 (soft), medium and high (hard) mineral content water type were used. All three waters used were within the SCAE/SCAA recommended range.

20 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA RESEARCH

What is the Water Standard? The coffee industry uses guidelines on the ideal extraction for coffee. SCAE/SCAA’s water standard outlines the acceptable range of mineral content, alkalinity, total dissolved solids (TDS), pH value, calcium/sodium content and odour/colour qualities that are recommended for brewing speciality coffee. The different water compositions were obtained using an ion exchange filter which reduces the total hardness and alkalinity in WATER: equal amounts. Since alkalinity is considered to be critical to the perception of acidity in coffee, it was decided to limit the variation WHY QUALITY MATTERS of it to +/- 50% of the recommended SCAE/SCAA target. Who Was Involved? An expert panel of four coffee professionals evaluated two coffees and three different water types. The coffees were prepared in a blind cupping session according to an amended SCAA cupping protocol. Fragrance, uniformity and clean cup scores were not evaluated but sweetness was added and evaluated on a scale of 1-10. The cuppers each evaluated the coffee extracted with the three different waters, and repeated three times. Significance differences were based on 95% confidence intervals. In order to ensure that the cup profile was interpreted consistently, only cuppers with a relative standard deviation of less than 5% for three blind repetitions of the same sample would be included in the analysis. This led to the elimination of one cupper. The coffee was evaluated against the following attributes: • Aroma: Orthonasal odour of the coffee during the break and, to a minor extent, after removing the foam • Flavour: Combined perception of taste and retronasal odour of a coffee, making up its principal character • Aftertaste: Duration, intensity and quality of the flavour from the back of the palate after swallowing • Acidity: Combination of quality and intensity of the sensory perception of acids – one of the quickest sensory impressions during tasting • Body: Sensory perception of mouthfeel determined by viscosity and texture of the brew (e.g. fats/oils and very fine particles) • Balance: Degree of harmony between flavour, aftertaste, acidity and body – especially at high attribute intensities, small WHAT IS THE WATER STANDARD?differences result in strong imbalance The water with the lowest values • Sweetness: Sensory perception of a sweet taste or the degree Thefor coffee hardness, industry alkalinity,uses guidelines consistently on the ideal extraction gave for Theof different roundness water and fullnesscompositions were obtained using an coffee. SCAE/SCAA’s water standard outlines the acceptable •ion Overall: exchange Integrated filter which score reduces reflecting the how total pleasant hardness the and sensory rangethe of highest mineral content, scores alkalinity, – suggesting total dissolved that solids this alkalinityimpression in equal was, amounts. and in respect Since of alkalinity origin, varietal is considered and processing method. » (TDS), pH value,type calcium/sodiumof water leads content to a and better odour/colour to be critical to the perception of acidity in coffee, it qualities that are recommended for brewing speciality coffee. was decided to limit the variation of it to +/- 50% of the cup quality overall. recommended SCAE/SCAA target.

Characteristic Target Acceptable range Odour1 Clean/Fresh, odour free Colour2 Clear colour Total chlorine 0 mg/L TDS3 150 mg/L 75 - 250 mg/L Calcium hardness 4 grains or 68 mg/L 1 - 5 grains or 17 mg/L - 85 mg/L Total alkalinity 40 mg/L At or near 40 mg/L pH 7.0 6.5 to 7.5 Sodium 10 mg/L At or near 10 mg/L

1. Odour is based on sensory olfactory determination 2. Colour is based on sensory visual determination 3. TDS measure based on a 4-4-2 conversion: 1 µS *cm-1 EC = 0.7 mg*L-1 TDS

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 21

WHO WAS INVOLVED?

An expert panel of four coffee professionals evaluated two The coffee was evaluated against the following attributes: coffees and three different water types. The coffees were prepared in a blind cupping session according to an amended • Aroma: Orthonasal odour of the coffee during the SCAA cupping protocol. Fragrance, uniformity and clean break and, to a minor extent, after removing the foam cup scores were not evaluated but sweetness was added • Flavour: Combined perception of taste and retronasal and evaluated on a scale of 1-10. The cuppers each evaluated odour of a coffee, making up its principal character the coffee extracted with the three different waters, and • Aftertaste: Duration, intensity and quality of the repeated three times. Significance differences were based flavour from the back of the palate after swallowing on 95% confidence intervals. In order to ensure that the • Acidity: Combination of quality and intensity of the cup profile was interpreted consistently, only cuppers with sensory perception of acids – one of the quickest a relative standard deviation of less than 5%, for three blind sensory impressions during tasting repetitions of the same sample would be included in the • Body: Sensory perception of mouthfeel determined analysis. This led to the elimination of one cupper. by viscosity and texture of the brew (e.g. fats/oils and very fine particles) • Balance: Degree of harmony between flavour, aftertaste, acidity and body - especially at high attribute intensities, small differences result in strong imbalance • Sweetness: Sensory perception of a sweet taste or the degree of roundness and fullness • Overall: Integrated score reflecting how pleasant the sensory impression was, and in respect of origin, varietal and processing method RESEARCH

How did the Coffees and Different Water Types Compare? Prof. Chahan Yeretzian, Chairman of the SCAE Research In all cases where a significant difference in scores was observed, Committee and Head of the Centre for Analytical & Physical the highest was attributed to the coffee samples brewed using low Chemistry, says that the research underlines how important mineralHOW content DID water, withTHE the lowest COFFEES hardness. Beside significant AND water DIFFER type is for the ENTcoffee industry WATER and its role in ensuring differences, there was also a trend for low mineral content water that speciality coffee can achieve its full potential when scoringTYPES highest for COMPARE?the majority of sensory attributes. Across the complemented by a range of other factors. The research findings spectrum,HOW the DIDColombian THE scored higher COFFEES than the Brazilian coffee. ANDadd DIFFER further weight toENT the discussion WATER in the speciality coffee community about why water quality matters. ConclusionTYPESIn all cases where COMPARE? a significant difference in scores was ‘The results indicate how differences in water type alone can Theobserved, resultsHOW show the highest theDID impact was THE thatattributed water COFFEES quality to the has coffee on a coffee’ssamples AND move aDIFFER coffee’s cuppingENT scores into, WATER or out of, the “speciality” flavourbrewed profile. using Of low all mineralthe attributes content evaluated; water, with flavour, the acidity,lowest bracket. From a scientific perspective, these findings strengthen balance and overall scoring were the most significantly affected. our understanding of the important role that water quality can hardness.In all cases Beside where significant a significant differences, difference therein scores was alsowas Low TheTYPES water with the COMPARE?lowest values for hardness, alkalinity, play in influencing a particular coffee’s flavour profile,’ concludes aobserved, trend for the low highest mineral was content attributed water toscoring the coffee highest samples for Medium consistentlybrewed using gave low the mineral highest content scores – water, suggesting with thethat lowest this type Prof. Chahan Yeretzian. ◆ ofthe water majority leads toof asensory better cupattributes. quality overall. Across Thethe Colombianspectrum, High hardness. Beside significant differences, there was also Low coffeethe InColombian that all casesscored wherescored higher a higher significantacross than all attributes thedifference Brazilian also inshowscoffee. scores that was the CLICK FOR MORE: The full research report is available for download on a trend for low mineral content water scoring highest for Medium higherobserved, the score, the the highest more significant was attributed the difference to the coffee there is. samples This scae.com. the majority of sensory attributes. Across the spectrum, High highlightsbrewed how using the type low mineralof water contentused in specialitywater, with coffee the lowestis even morethe Colombianimportant in scored sensorySIGNIFICANT higher evaluations. than theSIGNIFICANT Brazilian coffee.SIGNIFICANT hardness. Beside significant differences, there was also Low 9.00a trend for low mineral content water scoring highest for Medium the majority of sensorySIGNIFICANT attributes.SIGNIFICANT Across the spectrum,SIGNIFICANT High 8.50the Colombian scored higher than the Brazilian coffee. 9.00 8.00 8.50 SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT 7.50 8.009.00 7.00 7.50 8.50 6.50 7.008.00 6.00 6.50 7.50 5.50 6.00 7.00 5.00 5.506.50 Aroma Flavour Aftertaste Acidity Body Balance Sweetness Overall

Brazilian coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. 5.006.00 The three attributes of flavour, aftertaste and acidity show a significant difference. Aroma Flavour Aftertaste Acidity Body Balance Sweetness Overall 5.50 Brazilian coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. The three attributes of flavour, aftertaste and acidity show a significant difference. 5.00 Aroma Flavour Aftertaste Acidity Body Balance Sweetness Overall

Brazilian coffee: CuppingSIGNIFICANT scores and significant differencesSIGNIFICANT observed. SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT The three attributes of flavour, aftertaste and acidity show a significant difference. 9.00 SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT 8.50 9.00 8.00 8.50 SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT SIGNIFICANT 7.50 8.009.00 7.00 7.50 8.50 6.50 7.008.00 6.00 6.50 7.50 5.50 6.00 7.00 5.00 5.506.50 Aroma Flavour Aftertaste Acidity Body Balance Sweetness Overall

5.00Colombian6.00 coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. The four attributesAroma of flavour, Flavouracidity, balance andAftertaste overall show a significantAcidity difference. Body Balance Sweetness Overall 5.50 Colombian coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. 22 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA The four5.00 attributes of flavour, acidity, balance and overall show a significant difference. Aroma Flavour Aftertaste Acidity Body Balance Sweetness Overall

Colombian coffee: Cupping scores and significant differences observed. The four attributes of flavour, acidity, balance and overall show a significant difference. SIGNPOST

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 23 BGE Get Ready for

Would Baristayou like to learn, share ideas, make new friendsCamp and catch up with old ones, all while relaxing in the sunny idyll of the Italian Riviera? Then make sure you don’t miss the second annual Barista Camp, organised by Barista Guild of Europe, which takes place in Riccione, Italy, this 23-26 September.

aunched at World of Coffee Rimini 2014, the first European Barista Camp was one of the biggest hits of Lthe coffee calendar last year when it attracted baristas from across the coffee community to the sunny climes of Greece. This year, Barista Guild of Europe (BGE) is returning to the Adriatic coast, bringing the second annual Barista Camp to Riccione, 15km south of Rimini, where baristas can enjoy professional education, cutting-edge lectures, tastings and lots of fun, over four busy days. Taking place at Hotel Corallo, this year’s Camp includes an expanded educational programme with no less than Enjoy professional education, cutting-edge lectures, five educational tracks. Based on industry standards provided by SCAE’s Coffee tastings and lots of fun, over four busy days. Diploma System, participants can choose from: • Raphael — Barista Foundation and Sensory Foundation • Michelangelo — Green Foundation and Sensory Foundation • Leonardo — Barista Intermediate • Donatello — Brewing Intermediate • Splinter — Sensory Intermediate The tracks cater for baristas with diverse skill levels and interests and include optional certification.

Choosing the Right Track We realise there might be strong emotional bonds to any of these track names, but please consider carefully which track is right for you. We urge you to read through the curricula (visit baristaguildofeurope. com for details) for the modules you're interested in, so you can make an informed decision. You – and everyone else in your group – will benefit the most from the course if you possess the skills and knowledge required for that level. Barista Foundation is designed for people new to the coffee industry and focuses on the key skills required to set your grinder, make espresso and foam and texture milk for cappuccinos. No previous barista experience is required for this course. Barista Intermediate is designed to test key core and more advanced skills and understanding, expected from a competent Attendees at Barista Camp 2014, photographed by Hung Nguyen Canh and Jordan Sanchez

24 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA BGE

barista (for example, from someone working as a barista for six months or more). Successful candidates should be Get Ready for able to dial in a brew recipe, make a full range of drinks with quality and speed, as well as understand the basic requirements for customer service and maintenance. Barista Foundation is a recommended (but not mandatory) pre-requisite module. Brewing Intermediate is a hands-on workshop where you will learn to analyse Barista Camp your grind profile, match your grind to your brewing method and to scientifically measure coffee strength and chart a coffee’s extraction. Sensory Foundation covers the essentials of sensory evaluation in Green Coffee Foundation covers a practical and interactive manner. the key concepts surrounding green It investigates the way we perceive, coffee, from growing the plant, through what we taste and how to apply this processing, shipping, storage and arrival knowledge when evaluating coffee’s at a roaster. It includes an introduction to natural characteristics. It also offers an cupping and coffee grading. introduction to identifying speciality coffee qualities, as well as a basic overview of Book Now 23-26 September how to implement this in business. Following on from the success of the Sensory Intermediate is ideal for inaugural Camp last year, tickets for this Barista Camp year’s event are in hot demand. Tickets are someone with cupping experience who Riccione, Italy wants to develop their knowledge of priced at €575 (€525 for SCAE members) sensory skills. It is broken down into and include your preferred track of CDS baristaguildofeurope.com three areas: 'how we taste, perceive and modules, including certification, as well as interpret', 'running a cupping session and all other social and educational activities tasting the diversity of coffee' and 'how at camp, three nights of accommodation to set up sensory skills in your business'. at the four star Hotel Corallo, and all Sensory Foundation is a recommended of your meals. You can book online at (but not mandatory) pre-requisite module. baristaguildofeurope.com/bc/registration. ◆ 8537 Pentair Cafe Europa (128x185) AW_128x185mm 06/02/2015 16:43 Page 1

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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 25 PAUL STACK, the new President of ou will have heard the mutterings, we’re sure. The whispers, the Twitter speculation, the juicy gossip… the Speciality Coffee Association ‘Collaboration’ is the word du jour, and its big brother, Y‘alignment’ is rumoured to be causing tremors on both of Europe, has identified three sides of the Atlantic. If you have been buried under a brew bar for the last year and key priorities for his presidency: you haven’t caught the chatter, let us explain: the powers that be in the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) and the alignment, strategy and succession. Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) are investigating He talks to SARAH GRENNAN the possibility of forming one global organisation dedicated to promoting and supporting speciality coffee around the world. about leading SCAE into the future While it is not a covert operation, there has been no official comment on the process, fuelling the gossip at ground level in following the phenomenal growth the coffee community. Paul Stack’s TED-esque style talk at the inaugural Re:co of recent years. Speciality Coffee Symposium in Gothenburg during World of

26 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA COVER STORY

Paul Stack, President of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe and Operations Director of Marco Beverage Systems, pictured at Coffeeangel SAS, Dublin.Image: Jason Clarke

Coffee week was the Associations’ first step in taking ownership Paul’s talk at the first Re:co think tank, now available to view of the conversation. His sit-down with Café Europa in August on the RecoSymposium YouTube channel, gives a succinct is the second step. The message is clear: There is no conflict, insight into why the European and US organisations are dating, no tremors, no fear. But there may be if the burning issue of with a view to future marriage. When the SCAA was founded in alignment is not tackled. 1982 and its European peer was established in 1998 the world ‘The Re:co presentation was about trying to take control of was a very different place. The web was still in its infancy, the the message of alignment,’ reflects Paul, the Marco Beverage connectivity we all know and enjoy today was a pipedream. Systems’ Operations Director who took up the mantle as SCAE Looking back over the period since the associations were formed President at the Nordic World of Coffee event in June. ‘There ‘the connectivity in our lives has obviously transformed, and has been a lot of talk in the industry about SCAE and SCAA it has been transformational for our businesses,’ mused Paul collaborating. There has been a lot of chatter on social media. in his presentation to industry leaders and stakeholders. ‘That Are we friends? Are we enemies? But the fact is that the industry connectivity has enabled farmer to barista and it’s going to today, and the current connectivity we all enjoy today, means further enable farmer to consumer. This is the landscape we live that geographic borders are nonsense. The idea of not having in and that enables us all.’ the European and American associations aligned is nonsense. While they may have operated in different jurisdictions, both If we were to start an organisation now, it would be global.’ associations share a belief in ‘something that tastes better and »

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 27 COVER STORY

something better for the global coffee community. This child of two parents – SCAE and SCAA – has been driving, very successfully, global community events such as the world coffee championships, and now Re:co. WCE has been a great test bed for alignment.’ With roughly 3,500 members in each association, a marriage of the two organisations makes sense for the coffee community in Europe and the US, and the industry at large across the globe, he maintains. ‘What empowers alignment is that there is no reason not to do it. If we don’t collaborate, the nemesis of competition is that we will start to eat ourselves.’ Indeed there are early signs that this is already starting to happen. The rapid growth of speciality coffee in new and emerging markets, especially Asia, has seen SCAE and SCAA compete for new members. ‘There is a huge pull on our membership as we are asked to enter new markets. We are embarrassingly clashing.’ So the vision is alignment, but how will this manifest itself? ‘That is the big question,’ notes the SCAE President. ‘We have been talking at board level for some time. There is already a lot of cross-pollination in our associations. The Barista Guild of America is linked with Barista Guild of Europe, members of the SCAE board have sat on the SCAA strategic review for the last couple of years. Going back a few years the connectivity between the staff and the boards of both associations was practically non-existent, but now we meet twice a year to discuss the major issues impacting the industry. For instance we met on the Ethiopia Exchange two years ago and we were able to lobby together for a change through the ICO (International Coffee Organization).’ In dating parlance, therefore, the associations are dancing. When do they expect to post an engagement announcement? ‘We’re certainly not in a rush and nothing is agreed as yet. I would love to have a plan established by the time I sign off my presidency in June 2016. The boards of the SCAA and SCAE are knowledgeable industry executives and operators but we are a group of volunteers. Do we know how a global association should be set up? No, we don’t. We need to bring in some expertise to establish what such an organisation would look Pictured at the Marco Beverage Systems stand at the Nordic World of Coffee,image : Chris Dobbs like and we have to benchmark the correct way of doing things before we make any decisions. We don’t want to end up ‘The connectivity we all enjoy today means that geographic borders are nonsense. The idea of not having the European and American associations aligned is nonsense. If we were to start an organisation now, it would be global.’ can be explored’, explained Paul. The Europeans and Americans like FIFA.’ have common goals and similar activities. ‘You have education While the boards recruit external experts to help plot the programmes, exhibitions, competitions on either side of the transition, they have also met internally with members of the Atlantic and more recently, both associations working on executives to discuss the possible integration and allay any research and sustainability progammes,’ he noted. The first step concerns among staff. Paul’s meeting with the SCAE executive in partnership was the birth of SCAE and SCAA’s baby, World team was brimming with positivity, he reveals. ‘Both associations Coffee Events (WCE), which has done Trojan work in turning the are growing faster than they can cope so if alignment is there, World Barista Championship into a speciality coffee showcase there is no reason to believe that there might be cuts. By working viewed by thousands live at the event and online across the together to enter new markets our growth is going to be even globe each year. more explosive and the critical issue is how to manage that.’ Back in Marco’s head office in Dublin, Ireland in August, What about the fears among the membership? ‘Because Paul explains that, although both boards didn’t realise it at we haven’t had any substantial engagement with members on the time, the formation of WCE was a crucial first step on the alignment yet, any fears are anecdotal,’ notes Paul. ‘The SCAA road to alignment. ‘Unknown to the current board, when the is a single country association whereas SCAE is multinational, World Barista Championship was professionalised in 2010 by so maybe there are a few more fears on the US side. As SCAE the creation of World Coffee Events, it was a test bed to do is a multicultural, multinational, multi-currency association,

28 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA COVER STORY

Paul’s presentation at the inaugural Re:co Speciality Coffee Symposium in Gothenburg was SCAE and SCAA’s first public comment on alignment. You can view the talk on the RecoSymposium YouTube channel. Image: Eileen Kenny we’re more used to collaborating in Europe.’ He is conscious The challenge for SCAE as it moves into new frontiers, is of the need to engage with members on the issue, however. how to cope with the demand for membership and services, ‘The recent story regarding the US regional barista competitions including the hugely popular Coffee Diploma System which shows that if you take away a regional identity, the membership has already awarded an impressive 15,000 certificates this year. won’t be happy. The fear of losing a national identity may be To do this effectively, the Association needs investment, Paul even greater and those fears need to be acknowledged. We acknowledges. ‘The association has grown on average more need to establish and communicate the best possibilities for than 40% annually in the last four years. That highlights how both associations to enable a future road map. We owe it to the relevant SCAE is and the value it delivers. How will we meet that community to clarify what might happen.’ demand in the future? We will need more senior managers, we will need to invest in an automated membership system hile charting a course for future alignment and we will need to professionally develop our key staff will surely provide plenty to keep him and grow our own people.’ occupied through his presidency, For Paul, one of the key architects of the WPaul Stack is eager to point out Re:co Rewind Coffee Diploma System, the growth in the that it is just one task on his to-do list in the Association and in particular, its educational run-up to World of Coffee Dublin 2016. Watch Paul Stack’s offering, is hugely rewarding. ‘I didn’t do it ‘For me, three is the magic number,’ he on my own, there were a lot of volunteers says, pointing to the three pillars he has presentation at Re:co who invested a huge amount of time and identified for his one-year term of office. Gothenburg on the expertise in developing the Coffee Diploma ‘The first is alignment and collaboration, the System, but I am very proud of how second is developing a new SCAE strategy RecoSymposium YouTube successful it has been. The fact that we give and ensuring that we know what that is for the channel. €1 for every certificate issued back to origin, next few years. That strategy for SCAE in no in the past through Coffee Kids and now way conflicts with what happens with alignment. via Grounds for Health and the International The third pillar is about succession. Our board is Women’s Coffee Alliance, is wonderful. It further elected every two years and we need to encourage enables us to support the community.’ the right people in the community to put themselves Another source of pride must be the arrival of World of forward. We also need to ensure we have good succession Coffee, SCAE’s flagship event, in Paul’s hometown of Dublin next at committee level. The board sets the strategy but it is the June. Is he feeling the pressure? ‘To be the President bringing World committees that drive the activity and ensure that the executive are of Coffee to Dublin is a wonderful thing, but it is also professionally able to roll this out. SCAE was run by volunteers for so long that we and personally terrifying,’ he chuckles. ‘I do believe it’s going to be needed doers on the committees. Now that we have an effective the biggest and best event in the show’s history though. Over 70% executive team in place, we need thinkers as well as doers.’ of the stands have already sold and I think there is a big interest in While the board is well represented in terms of age, visiting Dublin. The fact that we are just one flight away from many company size and geography, it still has an imbalanced gender destinations, including the Eastern Seaboard of the US, is a big mix – just two of the 16-strong board are women. ‘We need attraction and we hope many of our colleagues in the community to encourage more women to get involved,’ urges Paul. ‘It is will come to visit us next June. Am I confident? Yes. Am I nervous? hugely important that the board is represented with a good mix Not too nervous, but I need to ensure I am fully involved in order from origin, roasting, machines and retail, as well as in terms to calm those nerves.’ of geography, gender and age. We will clarify this December With alignment, strategy, succession and World of Coffee which board members will run for re-election next June and Dublin to juggle along with the day job at Marco Beverage will be encouraging members of the community to nominate Systems, it doesn’t sound like Paul will have much time for nerves. themselves and others for election, particularly where there is a ‘I’m lucky, the team here are very supportive. Plus I enjoy being board imbalance.’ busy, which is a good thing, as it’s going to be a busy year!’ ◆

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 29 30 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA WORLD OF COFFEE THE WORLD’S A STAGE Thousands of coffee lovers from around the world landed in Gothenburg during Midsummer Week where SCAE staged Europe’s greatest coffee celebration, the Nordic World of Coffee.

his year’s event, sponsored by BWT water+more, attracted 4,073 unique visitors from 81 countries, more than half of whom returned on days two and Tthree of the show. The visitors flocked to the Swedish Exhibition & Congress Centre to do business with over 1,000 exhibitors who showcased their products and services on 155 stands in a 3,000sq.m. exhibition. Of course, SCAE’s flagship event is more than just an exhibition, it’s a carnival of coffee. This year’s World of Coffee featured no less than five enthralling World Competitions: the SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Demus S.p.A; the New Product of the Show Awards, sponsored by Wilfa; the SCAE Photography Awards; three busy days of cuppings, seminars and talks, the inspirational Re:co Speciality Coffee Symposium. which was held for the first time on the eve of the show, and of course, plenty of exciting parties, including the SCAE Party at Liseberg Amusement Park, the Gothenburg Street Food Festival and the WCE and Astoria’s Official Barista After Party. David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE, paid tribute to the supporters who made World of Coffee happen. ‘I would like to sincerely thank the working group here in Gothenburg who have worked so hard to make the Nordic World of Coffee the best ever, and the hundreds of wonderful volunteers who freely gave their time to help stage this event. I am particularly thankful also to our sponsors BWT water+more, our Official Event Host; Indonesia Specialty Coffee and the Indonesian Embassy, Official Coffee Producing Country Sponsor; Demus S.p.A., sponsor of the SCAE Excellence Awards; Wilfa, sponsor of the New Product of the Show Awards; and KeepCup, Volunteers’ sponsor, whose support has enabled us to stage such a great event.’ »

Above: David Veal, Executive Director, Paul Stack, President, Cosimo Libardo, Past President and Yannis Apostolopoulos, Vice President, SCAE, pictured with Frank Neuhausen, CEO, BWT water+more (centre) at the Nordic World of Coffee Welcome Reception. BWT water+more was appointed Official Event Host of the Nordic World of Coffee. Image: Chris Dobbs Top and opposite page: There was plenty to excite visitors at the Nordic World of Coffee. Images: Danilea Linares and Matias Sauter

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 31 WORLD OF COFFEE INSPIRING EXCELLENCE SCAE’s core mission is to ‘Inspire Coffee Excellence’ around the world, an objective that it would not be able to achieve without the support of members and volunteers at ground level. At the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg the Association honoured those who strive to make a difference in the global coffee community.

roudly sponsored by Demus S.p.A., the annual SCAE Excellence Awards are judged by the SCAE PInternational Development Committee and honour members who have contributed to the success of the industry through education, innovation, sustainability and entrepreneurship. David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE, explains: ‘The SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Demus S.p.A., recognise the achievement of members within the coffee community, rewarding the passion and commitment of those who work tirelessly to grow and improve our industry. Through these Awards each year we honour those who have the courage, the imagination, and the drive to make a Pictured at the presentation of the SCAE Excellence Awards were Colin Smith, Yves Clyford Desobgo Nguepi, Konstantinos Kostantinopoulos, difference in the global coffee community Patrick O’Malley, Mathias Nabutele, Max Fabian and Heinz Trachsel regardless of rank or place.’ Young Entrepreneur Award Passionate Educator Award The Awards were presented on This award is presented to a young This award is presented to an individual Wednesday, 17 June at the Nordic World and enthusiastic member of the who has made a concerted effort to of Coffee. The 2015 winners are: coffee industry who has shown drive, communicate to others the wonderful determination and perseverance in their pleasure that coffee can bring us. field to be successful in the coffee trade. Winner: Patrick O’Malley, International Winner: Konstantinos Kostantinopoulos, Barista & Coffee Academy (IBCA), Chief Executive of Coffee Island Espresso Italia, Infusion Coffee + Tea, and LiquidTech Coffee Services Since joining Coffee Island as Production Manager in 2010, Konstantinos Patrick O’Malley is as close to a ‘Professor of Kostantinopoulos has risen to the top of Coffee’ as one can get. A native of Arizona, the company, doubling Coffee Island in USA, he fell in love with coffee in the early size, introducing it to new markets and years of his career in the hospitality industry becoming Europe’s seventh biggest coffee and went on to found Espresso Italia in chain in the process. 1999, an importer of fine Italian coffee, Konstantinos, who has a background espresso machines and grinders. He later in mechanical engineering and expanded the empire with Infusion Fine Tea, aeronautics, has embraced the coffee a supplier of artisan teas, and LiquidTech, the industry with vigour over the last six service arm of the business. years. Today he holds the SCAE Coffee Patrick became just the 43rd person Diploma, he is an Authorised SCAE in the world to achieve SCAE’s Coffee Trainer of Barista, Brewing, Green Diploma in 2012 and his passion for Coffee, Sensory and Roasting modules, coffee education led him to establish the he is certified as a National Judge International Barista & Coffee Academy and he serves as National Coordinator (IBCA) in Tempe, Arizona, where he of SCAE Hellas. provides training in SCAE’s Introduction to He regularly travels to farms around Coffee, Barista Skills, Green Coffee, Sensory the world, rolling out Coffee Island’s Skills, Roasting and Brewing modules. Microfarm Project, a direct trade He is an Authorised SCAE Trainer, programme. Under his stewardship Coffee Master Roaster, Tea Sommelier and Island roasts more than 720 tonnes of International Judge and a key supporter of premium and speciality coffee per year, SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System, regularly and has a network of 256 coffee shops. flying around the world to provide training. Max Fabian of Demus S.p.A, SCAE Excellence Awards sponsor

32 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA WORLD OF COFFEE

Innovation Award of areas around Mount Elgon. The Winner: Heinz Trachsel This award is presented to an individual organisation also encourages collective or organisation that has successfully conservation of the environment through Heinz Trachsel has dedicated much produced a new and innovative means of the different farmer groups. Farmers are of his career to inspiring excellence promoting the quality of coffee. encouraged to plant shade trees on their in coffee. He spent 40 years working in farms that improve soil fertility and provide the industry, spearheading domestic and Winner: Yves Clyford Desobgo Nguepi, an additional source of income when they international marketing and sales of fully Demus S.p.A. mature. Coffee A Cup is also embarking automatic professional Swiss espresso on a new project to provide 13,000 coffee machines. Demus S.p.A.’s R&D Manager, Yves cooking stoves which will reduce wood A SCAE member for over a decade, Clyford Desobgo Nguepi, holds a Ph.D consumption and help reduce respiratory Heinz served as Swiss National in Chemical Engineering. He has worked diseases by making kitchens healthier. Coordinator from 2006-2012, leading with the faculty of Chemical Engineering the local organisation team for World at the University of Trieste, researching Lifetime Achievement Award of Coffee Berne in 2006. He was voted the extraction of substances using carbon The Lifetime Achievement Award is a ‘National Coordinator of the Year’ in 2010, dioxide (CO2) at supercritical state. He special award presented by SCAE each became a member of the Education is a coffee innovator and has recently year to an individual from the coffee Committee in 2009 and he is a co-creator conducted exciting research into, and industry that has furthered the interests of the Coffee Diploma System. Heinz the execution of, an alternative water of the coffee community by promoting has been a constant ally of the Association decaffeination process using activated the concept of quality coffee in a since he joined in 2004, serving as a charcoal at Demus S.p.A. and Demus Lab. statesmanlike manner. board member since 2012, vice chair Working Towards Sustainability of the Membership Committee, The Working Towards Sustainability and the Regional Coordinator for award is presented to a smallholder, Switzerland, Germany and Austria estate, cooperative, mill or farm in an from 2012-2014. origin country that has worked to adapt ‘Heinz has been a passionate traditional farming or coffee preparation supporter of the Speciality Coffee methods in an effort to improve the Association of Europe, contributing environment and help sustain the industry. significantly to the development of our education programme, among Winner: Mathias Nabutele, Coffee A Cup other initiatives. We are hugely grateful for the time and expertise he has Coffee A Cup has worked diligently to try offered the Association over the past and prevent landslides in Uganda that have decade,’ said David Veal. » killed hundreds through the reforestation Heinz Trachsel, winner of the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award

via Caboto, 31 • 34147 Trieste • Italy [email protected] • www.demus.it

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 33 WORLD OF COFFEE INNOVATION AWARDED The New Product of the Show Awards, sponsored by Wilfa, are the definitive guide to the hottest new products and services at World of Coffee each year and shine a spotlight on the most exciting new innovations to enter the market over the last 12 months.

his year’s winners, who were announced on day one Best New Non-Coffee Beverage of the show in Gothenburg, included a new online Zuma Non-Dairy Vanilla Bean community where coffee growers and roasters can Frappe from Beyond the Bean Tinteract, an espresso cupping cup, a cup with e-paper What is it? A vanilla frappe powder display powered by hot coffee, an all-in-one, portable pour-over suitable for use with milk or as a coffee maker, an eco-friendly bag, natural syrup range and non- non-dairy milk alternative. dairy frappe. What did the jury say? ‘This non- The winners were selected by an independent panel of coffee dairy product offers a neat solution and hospitality experts following an intensive judging process, that is highly practical, caters to combining written submissions, Dragons’ Den-style presentations special dietary requirements and to the jury on the eve of the event, and product demonstrations meets very different consumer on the opening day of World of Coffee. needs.’ The jury selected seven products for honours at the event. More info beyondthebean.com They were: Best New Technology & IT Innovation Best New Packaging Solution Algrano The Eco-Friendly Box Pouch with Front What is it? The first online community where coffee growers Zipper from Dutch Pack International and roasters can meet, interact and eventually become business What is it? An airtight recyclable bag with partners. Algrano makes direct sourcing of micro lots hassle-free high barrier foil that keeps beans fresh for for roasters, producers and logistic partners while providing end long periods. It is available in a variety of to end transparency on prices. sizes and finishes, with different options What did the jury say? ‘Algrano triumphed in this highly for reclosability and degassing valves. competitive category, impressing judges with its innovative What did the jury say? ‘This package is new online platform which provides greater transparency in the innovative and recyclable, offering an eco- coffee process – from crop to cup – and facilitates conversations friendly solution at a competitive price between farmers, baristas and consumers.’ point. The front zip provides flexibility and More info algrano.com the flat bottom offers ease of use.’ More info dutchpack.eu

Best New Food Product Espresso Syrup from AB Borowiec What is it? A range of all-natural flavoured syrups created by coffee lovers, free from artificial colourings, flavours or preservatives. What did the jury say? ‘Made from natural ingredients and competitively priced for an all-natural product, the range includes a wide selection of flavours.’ More info cafeborowka.pl

Best Coffee Convenience Product Paulig Muki from Oy Gustav Paulig AB What is it? A takeaway cup with an e-paper display that is powered by hot coffee and can be used to download images or send messages. What did the jury say? ‘This exciting new cup with e-paper display powered by hot coffee provides an innovative platform to connect customers with each other and your brand in a fun way.’ More info pauligmuki.com

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Best Domestic Coffee Equipment Cafflano Klassic from Beanscorp What is it? A portable, all-in-one, pourover coffee maker combining a hand-mill grinder, pourover kettle, stainless etching filter dripper and tumbler with lid. What did the jury say? ‘This all-in-one, portable, pour-over coffee maker is an ingenious consumer product that will appeal to speciality coffee enthusiasts around the world.’ More info cafflano.com

David Veal, SCAE, and Tony Andersson, Wilfa, present Raphael Studer, Algrano, with the award for Best New Technology & IT Innovation. Image: Chris Dobbs Meet the Jury The New Product of the Show Awards are judged independently from SCAE by a panel of experts from Best Professional Coffee Equipment the café, catering, hotel and academic sectors. The Revelation Cup by L’Arbre a Café The 2015 judges were: What is it? The Revelation Cup is the first cupping cup for espresso, • Kristofer Gibson, Technical Development – designed to appeal to the different senses – sight through its Product Manager, Costa Express shape, smell through its aromatic opening, touch through the thick stoneware and taste with the organoleptic clarity it enables. • Jonathan Morris, Author and Editor of coffee-related What did the jury say? ‘This was another hugely competitive publications and Professor of Modern History category. The Revelation Cup ultimately took first place, at the University of Hertfordshire impressing with its concept and delivery. The espresso cupping • Steve Lovegrove, Head of Business Excellence – cup changes your sensory experience of coffee – from smell to Hot Beverages, Compass Group UK & Ireland taste and touch, transforming your cupping experience.’ More info larbreacafe.com • Krister Dahl, Executive Chef, Gothia Towers

As part of their prize, the winners will each receive publicity with SCAE to the value of €3,000. Keep an eye out for future issues of (l-r) Krister Dahl, Jonathan Morris, Kris Gibson and Steve Lovegrove Café Europa to learn more about these great products. »

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 35 WORLD OF COFFEE TAKE FIVE

World Brewers Cup finalists

Five new World Champions were crowned and one marriage proposed at the Nordic World of Coffee.

urope scored highly at this year’s Coffee Championships A total of 36 National Latte Art Champions, 28 National in Gothenburg with three of the five new World Brewer Champions, 36 National Cup Tasters Champions, Champions hailing from the region, including two 10 National Coffee Roasting Champions, and 14 Efrom neighbouring Norway. But while it was a great National Coffee in Good Spirits Champions took part performance for the host continent, the event was arguably even in the championships over the three days. Along with better for Australia’s Caleb Cha who celebrated winning the World thousands of spectators at the event, a massive 43,850 Latte Art Championship by dropping to one knee and proposing viewers around the world watched the competitions to his – very surprised – girlfriend on stage. (She said yes!) live online.

Minkeun Choi, Joanna Alm and Audun Sørbotten triumphed in World Coffee Roasting Championship

36 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA WORLD OF COFFEE THE RESULTS

World Latte Art Championship Champion: Caleb Cha, Cafenatics, Australia 2nd: Xuechao Wang, Jiangbeileran Coffee, China 3rd: Kyeong-woo Jung, Corea Coffee Belt, South Korea 4th: Mao Nagura, Fonz, Japan 5th: Arnon Thitiprasert, RISTR8TO, Thailand 6th: Hong-Sheng Liao, Café Moment, Taiwan

World Brewers Cup Champion: Odd-steinar Tøllefsen, Supreme Roastworks, Norway 2nd: Konstantinos Iatridis, Taf, Greece 3rd: Benjamin Prager, Bear Brothers & Cow, Switzerland 4th: Sarah Jean Anderson, Intelligentsia Coffee, USA 5th: Rob Kerkhoff, Babo Coffee, The Netherlands 6th: Ruslan Shulga, Omni Coffee, Russia

World Cup Tasters Championship Champion: Juan Gabriel Cespedes, Ecomtrading Costa Rica, Costa Rica 2nd: Mateusz Petlinski, Woyton Roast Inc., Germany 3rd: Yoeri Joosten, Boot Koffie, The Netherlands 4th: Krisse McGregor, Coffee Lab, New Zealand

World Coffee Roasting Championship Champion: Audun Sørbotten, Audun Coffee, Norway 2nd: Joanna Alm, Drop Coffee, Sweden 3rd: Minkeun Choi, Coffee HOW’S Company, South Korea

World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship Champion: George Koustoumpardis, The Underdog, Greece 2nd: Ondrej Hurtík, doubleshot, Czech Republic 3rd: Paul Ungureanu, Paul Ungureanu Consulting, Romania 4th: Eduardo Affonso Scorsin, Lucca Cafés Especiais, Brazil 5th: Sang Moo Hyun, Maris Coffees, South Korea 6th: Sang Ho Park, Square Mile Coffee, United Kingdom » World Latte Art Champion, Caleb Cha

World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion, George KoustoumpardisImages: WCE

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 37 WORLD OF COFFEE

1. PHOTO FINISH

2.

4.

3.

Winning pics 1. From Bean To Cup – ‘The Process’ by Seivijus Matiejunas 2. The Artist's Way – ‘Ethiopian Coffee Break, Jimma, Ethiopia’ by Jonatan Låstbom 3. The Bean And The Farm – ‘The Origin of How it all Starts, Los Soldaditos’ by Ximena Rubio 4. The People And The Bean – ‘It Takes Thousands to Make Coffee Happen, I'm Proud’, Kateřina Husičková

38 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA WORLD OF COFFEE

SCAE’s ever-popular annual Photography Awards proved to be another great crowd-pleaser at World of Coffee 2015.

his year’s competition drew record entries from across the coffee community in Europe and around the world. The Awards were judged by a panel of experts, all of Twhom have a creative eye and a keen interest in great photography. The members of the jury were Johan Damgaard, Johan & Nyström; Ludovic Maillard, Maison P. Jobin & Cie S.A.S.; Alessandro Bonuzzi, Artisan Coffee; and Sarah Grennan, Café Winter Europa magazine. Open to amateur photographers who work in the coffee WONDERS industry, this year’s categories celebrated coffee’s process, people, artists and farms. The winners were: The colder weather can bring profitable opportunities for hot drinks. DaVinci Gourmet From Bean to Cup – Seivijius Matiejunas The People and the Bean – Katerina Husickova syrups and sauces will inspire you to create a The Artist's Way – Jonathan Låstbom seasonal menu to warm your customers’ hearts. The Bean and the Farm – Ximena Rubio

World of Coffee visitors were also given an opportunity to vote for their favourite photograph through the official World of Coffee app and the People’s Choice Award was presented to Katerina Husickova. ◆

of consumers are motivated by a 29% theme or occasion when purchasing

B E R R Y

MACCHIATOChristmas

INGREDIENTS 12oz/360ml Jonathan Låstbom pictured with the SCAE Photography Award for ‘The Artist's Way’ DaVinci Gourmet Gingerbread Syrup 2 pumps DaVinci Gourmet Raspberry Syrup 1 pumps Espresso 2 shots Milk 250ml

DIRECTIONS ADD syrups to base of cup ADD Espresso TOP with steamed milk

For inspiration, check out our online recipe videos www.davinci-gourmet.com

at www.davinci-gourmet.com @DaVinci_Gourmet

*Independent research, commissioned by DaVinci Gourmet and conducted by Cambridge Direction Seivijius Matiejunas with the SCAE Photography Award for ‘From Bean to Cup’

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 39 WOC cafe europa ad AW.pdf 1 20/08/2015 14:27

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40 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA WOMEN IN COFFEE The IWCA Connecting Women to Lead Their Own Revolution

As SCAE signs a three-year Memorandum of Understanding with the International Women’s Coffee Alliance,KELLE VANDENBERG reflects on the crucial work undertaken by the organisation and its members to empower women in the coffee community.

ithin the world of coffee, women are taking more It will take innovation and diversification to stabilise the predominant roles in all aspects of the industry. In coffee crisis. I believe that women are assuming larger roles consuming countries and in producing countries, in coffee due to the changing times, allowing diversification Wwomen hold key positions of power, are leaders of ideas, practices, and policy. The expanding role of women within their communities, and lend their voices to policies that in coffee impacts directly on the livelihood of their immediate affect their world. community. Women, statistically, keep the money local, share I have heard the term ‘quiet revolution’ used to describe the their knowledge, and give back to their community. We see changing role women play within the coffee industry. The gender this happening all over the world, in every level of economic gap remains a real and true divide, and when you listen to the situations. voices of the women in coffee, you begin to understand the challenges that women must overcome. When People Stand Together, They Stand Stronger To quote my friend Lucia Ortiz of El Salvador, ‘I think there are This is the underlying thread that weaves the story of the a lot of amazing women… the coffee business always used to International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA). Over 10 years be handled by men, but because of destiny or times, now more ago, a group of women came together and travelled to origin. women are in charge of farms, as producers, and are getting On that journey, they met women coffee growers who, in turn, involved in all facets of the coffee chain.’ shared their journey, their experience, and their challenges. As it The coffee industry has challenges ahead. With the rust often happens when people of different cultures come together outbreak affecting roughly 53% of all coffee grown in the world, and speak of their experiences, the similarities bound them compounded by rising global temperatures affecting coffee yield together in a shared humanity and ideas of how to help began worldwide, we are seeing a reduction in overall coffee production. to grow. »

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 41 #internationalcoffeeday WOMEN IN COFFEE

Women of El Salvador By Lucia Ortiz Sonia Castaneda, director of Alianza de Mujeres en Café de El Salvador (AMCES), the El Salvador chapter of the IWCA, was married to a coffee producer and was widowed very young. With three children and a big coffee farm to handle, she learned quickly and on the job. She took control of her situation, her farm and, now, her coffees are Cup of Excellence winners. With amazing high quality, she now exports to Europe and is always active in the coffee community. She has a strong will and is not afraid to say what she thinks, and doesn’t shy away from the truth. Sonia is one of El Salvador’s top producers and is highly respected in the coffee community. Carmen de Silva, secretary of AMCES, is an amazing woman. She is a top producer and a ‘heart giver’. Carmen gives a lot to her community, hosting lunch every Thursday for all the elderly in her coffee town who do not have anything to eat or can’t afford a good meal. She also owns a coffee mill that she created. Carmen provides faith and love to others and has passed on her strong will to her family of admiring women. Lya de Castaneda is a member of AMCES and an example of what a woman can do. She is the daughter of a coffee producer Princess Lalah with women of the Philippines and married a coffee producer; she has literally grown up in coffee. She started a bakery at her house when she was young with other little kids in the area. Being a woman with impressive Understanding the new role of development helps you understand what the International Women’s Coffee Alliance does. It is a group of dedicated women and men who understand that, in order to maintain a sustainable coffee industry, they must strengthen the heart of the coffee community: the women and children. The International Women’s Coffee Alliance is simply about making connections to help people help themselves. The IWCA offers a hand up rather than a hand out. We teach, we mentor, we introduce, and we recommend. We make connections, knowing that, working together, we grow a strong global coffee community. We believe strongly in localisation and building a community outreach through our chapters, knowing that those living in a community know the needs of that community best. Local chapters become a local resource at the source. When we started, it was at best a good intention that has since grown in the last 10 years to become an incredible 19 chapters globally. These are chapters that have benefited from the IWCA in leadership training, strategic planning, business development, technical training, health and medical programmes. The programmes have impacted policy, community, personal and professional growth and strengthened women’s role within the supply chain. IWCA members at the AFCA Conference & Exhibition

The expanding role of women in coffee impacts directly on the livelihood of their immediate community. Women, statistically, keep the money local, share their knowledge, and give back to their community.

The International Women’s Coffee Alliance brings people entrepreneurship, Lya learned how to diversify. She exports her together for training, helps source funding, and builds a vast coffee and kept the bakery, which has become very well-known. network of resources that women can utilise at their local Now she has her own coffee brand (Bosque de Lya), creates chapter level. coffee seeds covered with chocolate, and her latest project is We are helping to give women the tools necessary to build coffee liqueur. Lya is a great example of what women can do! their own dreams. I share with you a glimpse of some of the many women of Women of the Philippines: Princess KumalahSug-Elardo coffee and the incredible example of successful innovation, By Pacita Juan, IWCA Philippine Chapter teaching, and giving back to their community that strengthens She thought she would retire soon as her children were almost the world of coffee, one farm at a time. The following are finished college. But one fateful visit to her birthplace, Panamao, individual journeys as told by the women themselves, through Sulu, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo, now 62 years old, changed their voices. #internationalcoffeeday her life and the life of so many others. » CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 43 WOMEN IN COFFEE

A Burundi farmer with a bag of Coffee By Design’s Burundi Kayanza Bourbon coffee

Four years ago, Princess Lalah, as she is known to many, In just a year, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo raised the incomes saw how coffee was being dried and processed in her small of the families from zero to P10,000 (USD $250) a year. Soon, town. They would spread the drying coffee berries on the road many more villages went into coffee harvesting with the motto and hope that some vehicles come and run them over – ‘Pick Red’. Her coop would only buy red ripe cherries and would to crack the shells and expose the coffee beans. That is also buy civet droppings at a special price. Civet droppings come how they processed coffee. from wild civets who roam the Sulu forests. It is a prized coffee In one coffee summit organised by the non-profit Philippine selection that commands a premium price due to its exotic Coffee Board, Inc. (PCBI), she learned that coffee is better off nature. being harvested ripe and then washed it to get the best flavour. In 2012, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo started to sell more She went to work and first put a water line from the hills to her coffee to Manila markets and also joined the International town. She did this ‘bayanihan’ style (where villagers work together Women’s Coffee Alliance-Philippines chapter as a founding with no pay) and asked the members to chip in a few thousand trustee. This opened her doors to more markets, retail and peso savings so they could finally have water flowing in their wholesale. She also joined the Management Association of the taps. And so water came to Panamao. Philippines Agri Business and Countryside Development (MAP- ABCDF) as a regular member and got to know businessmen who would be her benefactors and friends, buying her coffee and raising funds through projects such as purchasing generators and cable TV for her community. Already, her town mates are busy harvesting and processing coffee and the men have put down their arms because Princess has shown them another way to live – peacefully and economically-vibrant – through a most important product called coffee.

One Woman from Burundi: My Story By Isabelle Sinamenye As a woman in the coffee sector, I was designated to participate in the workshop of IWCA/ITC/AFCA, ‘Promoting Possibilities’, which was held in Kampala in 2009. I was the only one in my country to participate. When I came back home, I translated the ‘Country Chapter Development Manual’ into French (our official language) to facilitate the socialisation and teach what I had learned. After the

IWCA members in El Salvador

44 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA WOMEN IN COFFEE

SCAE & IWCA – SUPPORTING WOMEN IN COFFEE

At the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg this June, the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe and the International Women’s Coffee Alliance signed a three-year Memorandum of Understanding recognising their common purpose to empower women in the international coffee community to achieve meaningful, sustainable lives and encourage and recognise women's participation in all segments of the coffee industry.

The International Women's Coffee Alliance (IWCA) and Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) are committed to working together to provide relevant educational programmes, promote and create women's opportunities and common codes of conduct, and women's empowerment within a sustainable supply chain for the speciality coffee industry.

A worker at the washing station in the Democratic Republic of Congo

establishment of our IWCA Burundi chapter, I was inspired by my work to find a viable project that would enhance the living standards of women members of the IWCA Burundi and help in producing coffee for their families. Our goal was to produce and sell top quality coffee. Through Mery Santos, Vice President, IWCA, receives a cheque for €5,000 from David Veal, the IWCA connection, we found BD Imports, which bought twice Executive Director, SCAE the coffee from our members and it allowed us to distribute Desiree Logsdon, president of the IWCA, believes that the twice the bonus to members who have put together their spirit of the MOU is directly related to the mission of the coffees. We also partnered with Burundi Friends International and IWCA. ‘Our mission, to empower women in the international 110 IWCA members received two goats to fertilise their farms, coffee community to achieve meaningful and sustainable provide milk, and, additional income for our families. lives; and to encourage and recognise the participation of A profit-splitting plan was developed between IWCA Burundi, women in all aspects of the coffee industry is directly the local washing station owner, and BD Imports that provided aligned with the purpose of this collaboration.’ a bonus payment to the IWCA Burundi members based on the coffee selling price. This year, Mawazo, one of the IWCA Burundi Together, SCAE and the IWCA will be able to: members, rode her bicycle to visit me and share her story. ‘I • Provide market access and/or marketplace was at my home when I heard about IWCA. I became an IWCA member in March 2013. I received 60,000 Fr Bu (approx. USD • Recognise women's achievement $40.00) as a bonus for the coffee I sold to the Karehe washing • Create a global approach station and I bought this bicycle. Now if my child is ill, I can take • Foster networking him to see the doctor on my bicycle.’ • Create a platform for leadership training and professional development. A Shared Voice I am grateful to the women of coffee who have shared their David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE, could not agree stories, either directly or through the voices of others. It has been more. ‘Entering into this agreement helps to leverage both my honour to share a few examples of the way that women organisation's efforts to make a real difference to the lives of change lives every day by coming together leading their quiet women in coffee.’ revolution from the seat of their bicycle. To learn more about the International Women’s Coffee With a mission of inspiring coffee excellence through Alliance go to www.womenincoffee.org ◆ innovation, education, research and most importantly, communication, SCAE, in alliance with the IWCA, can raise KELLE VANDENBERG is a former vice-president of IWCA and the VP of awareness of the needs of women throughout the coffee Marketing at PBi. supply chain.

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 45 INTERVIEW

SAVING THE CIVET Sourcing Ethical Kopi Luwak

Civet coffee, or kopi luwak, has caused How did you get started in coffee? controversy due to the unscrupulous I’ve always loved coffee. When I was a kid, I would drink my mother’s Nescafé when she wasn’t looking. When special people farming practices of some producers, which visited, we would have a cafetiere and we would leave the ground coffee in the fridge for months, but it still tasted great to me. were highlighted in a BBC documentary in I got serious about coffee in 2009. I was having a meal in 2013. But not all kopi luwak should be tarred Japan, at an amazing restaurant where the meal comprised delicacies and the coffee was terrible! I asked where it was from with the same brush, argues Matthew Ross, and they said ‘it’s from Italy’. I was amazed that these restaurants who has worked hard to create a sustainable could pay such attention to detail when it came to food, but then it didn’t carry through into the coffee. I thought to myself, and ethically sourced kopi luwak, collected in my wisdom of not knowing anything about coffee, ‘I’m going to make that delicacy coffee’. from wild civets that are free to roam the That year I took a trip to Banda Aceh, Indonesia, and I realised Indonesian jungle. SCAE’s ANDRA VLAICU that kopi luwak, on paper, could be the delicacy coffee I was after. I set up a company with a couple of partners and after met the man behind the Ross Kopi brand at a couple of years, what began as an interest became just… the Nordic World of Coffee this summer to everything. I left Hong Kong and banking and moved to Sumatra, living on and off, for two years, in Banda Aceh and Tanjung. find out more about this unusual coffee. I started living my coffee and it was fantastic! I lived in a very small house, renting it for $6 a month, and I learned ‘bahasa’ [Indonesian language] and about the wonderful people of Sumatra.

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Matthew Ross pictured in London’s famous Harrods department store where Ross Kopi was promoted uneaten because they only eat the exact amount of what they want. When I was living in Banda Aceh there was a papaya that a luwak kept for over five days, so they choose just the best coffee to start with. When it gets through their stomach, there are enzymes in there that change the peptone. This takes the bitterness out of coffee because the actual biological mechanics of the civet cat changes the chemistry of the bean, which is part of the cat’s fermentation process. I think there’s a lab in Korea trying to replicate this fermentation process, to obtain the same coffee. There is a real reason why there is no animal like it.

What about its bad reputation? Animal activists argue that the civets are cruelly farmed. Kopi luwak's popularity fell off a cliff in about one week. Tony Galindo did an expose for the BBC on luwak production in Northern Sumatra and that didn’t help. The challenge was there. The camera doesn’t lie. What they exposed was happening, but it was a very small size, in my opinion. You can find this in a couple of places, but you cannot say the whole industry is like that. It wasn’t nice what they saw – I think it was quite rough. Luwak was mis-sold in places, but that’s not where I’m coming from in this Lake Laut Tawar in the Gayo Highlands of Northern Sumatra, where Matthew sources kopi luwak line of business. I was I tarred with the same brush and I didn’t think that was very fair on me – they put me back for months. Making a real Luwak is extremely hard and difficult. There are I met Neal D’Cruze and Tony at WSPA and we started working challenges everywhere – not just challenges with the beans, on certification with the government. It’s something that needs but also challenges socially and geographically. It’s flooded with to be done. This coffee needs to be registered and certificated – challenges and I only realised this when I was way too heavily the burden of proof is on the producer. If these farms can prove submerged in it. At a certain point, with Kopi, you can only lose it’s real, then they should do it. what nature’s given you. Safeguarding that bean is really hard with Luwak, but ultimately, very enjoyable. What’s the perception of kopi luwak in the countries you trade in? Since I’ve been selling it, the perception has been that it’s cruel, What made you choose luwak? You can have excellent especially given the fact that I launched my business two months speciality coffee much easier than luwak and some might before the BBC documentary aired. Talk about timing! And then, say it tastes just as well or even better. of course, the actual process of getting it isn’t exactly inviting you You can, of course, but for me it was the perfect delicacy I was to drink it… I’d like to think that we’re changing that by educating looking for. I remember Dan Barber doing a speech about a guy the client with our traceability and our story. in Spain who was making a natural version of foie gras without the gavage. I thought this was amazing. I think for a delicacy How can consumers know that they are drinking the real deal? to have rarity it has to be artisan. There has to be a mysterious It comes down to traceability and being able to track your element of how it’s made which conjures up a bit of magic and I products source. If it’s just a bag of coffee with a sticker on it, thought that luwak had that. who knows where the coffee came from? Food production is so mass market now that everyone is slapping a sticker on What do civets do to coffee that it makes it so special? packaging and sending it out. I think we need to go back and First, the cat has an amazing sense of smell and you can see start rewarding our farmers for a product that’s well made, that’s » through the jungle that there are coffee trees and guava fruits traceable and that tastes good.

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 47 INTERVIEW

How many farms do you have? What criteria do you base your cuppings on? Does the kopi I have 52 farmers over a 300 miles radius in 12 different villages. luwak from your area taste different from a kopi luwak from I’m constantly working with 20 or 30, because the season another area? How do you profile this coffee in order to know changes and there are times where farmers don’t have any the differences and how do you create its main characteristics? coffee. You know, you only really get luwak when it’s raining and We know what fruits are in season on the farm from the month cold, so you don’t get it all the time. we collect the coffee so that’s going to have an impact. We do manage and keep statistics on all our farmers so we can see How do you treat your animals? what’s going on with flavours. And if one doesn’t taste right, then I’ve never seen one in my life, they live in the jungle. They are it’s a defect and we can trace it back. nocturnal jungle cats. I don’t live in a jungle and I do my operations This isn’t some random roulette game, it needs to be during the day, so we don’t cross paths. I’ve seen them in cages, professionalised and traceable. What we aim to do is create a but I’ve never been in the jungle to track one down. system where we can ensure quality – where it’s going to be clean, completely defect free and taste sweet, but where we let How do you select your coffee? the characteristics speak for themselves. We are going to create We find it in the morning and we rely entirely on luck to find it. their own arena to shine and impress, by making them really well. They are very territorial animals and they use their moss gland When we have a cupping we know they’re all going to be to mark out territory and they normally are active within that 80 or 85, because that’s the quality that they need to be at. We territory. They like to deposit their ‘golds’ in parcels for us to find, don’t know the flavours – some might be really cinnamon, some mostly on fallen trees, but it can be anywhere, so it takes luck to might taste like spices or tobacco, some might be really sweet, find it. I walked many, many farms, without finding anything and and taste like guava fruit. What I will tell you is they’re going to be sometimes you’ll find half a kilo in one spot. If it doesn’t rain for a clean and sweet and balanced. few days you don’t find anything. And if you do, it’s probably too old and we can’t use old luwak, because it doesn’t taste good. How do you process your coffees, given the unusual way of getting your hands on it? What coffee do you use? Lots of people check if it’s real and then we wash it in spring It can be any variety, but this cat eats only the right beans. There water until it is completely clean. When it’s run clear, we dry it are wild coffees and a lot of varietals in the Gayo Islands, so a cat on reed trays, and we make sure each farm has its own tray so could eat from any of those. The challenge for us is in insuring it doesn’t get blended with others. Then it dries nicely, sitting in the right water percentage when roasting. You can have one a drying house where we measure the humidity and make sure variety of coffee with a dense bean and one variety with a less everything is kept under strict parametric over a period of six to dense bean. When you do your coffee sample, it says it’s 12%, eight weeks. but in that you might have a couple of beans at 6%, because of density. When you roast it, you have one bean that tastes like charcoal and one bean that tastes accurate, like a grapefruit. Then we just stick the beans together in a bag for a couple of months and they sort of water one another – that’s why the process takes four months.

That’s not exactly fresh coffee! I don’t know if there is any fresher coffee that’s been more looked after or cared for than ours. It’s not exactly fresh, no, but it wouldn’t be any good if it was.

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Where do you think this trend with kopi luwak is heading? What is its stand on the Indonesian coffee market versus the rest of the world? With Ross Kopi, I set out that most obviously the cat is the main differentiator but it’s not what I’m selling it on. There are 18 stages in making this coffee, and the cat is only one of them. They’re all done inside Indonesia by Indonesian people, Indonesian farmers. For me to produce a product of that quality, it is through absolute professionalism, commitment, heart, love and all of the farmers whom I work with. I want this kopi luwak to showcase the crafts these guys can produce. They’re producing their own coffees on the side of this luwak, but through it they get a really good profile and a global name – because if you drink their luwak, you should consider drinking their other coffees as well.

What’s the consumption of luwak in Indonesia? Funny enough, I’ve never sold any in Indonesia – it’s all based on export. In the Indonesian supermarket you can get something called ‘white caffe’, which is instant coffee you can pick up for 10 cents a sachet – so I’m up against a bit of a hurdle over there.

It’s a fact that many coffee farmers don’t know what their coffee tastes like. Is this the case for your farmers too? It’s beautiful to see a farmer cup his coffee, then cup other farmers’ coffees and then to see the glow on his face when he realises his coffee is better, he has pride in what he does. As soon as you start educating, you cannot go back, you just progress and evolve.

What about competition? I think the luwak industry is recovering and will recover as where there is a demand there has to be a supply. As with everything else, as you have your favourite whisky or favourite food, you must have your favourite coffee. The price will keep high if you keep the quality – the competition will only boost demand for high-level coffee. So, bring on more luwak producers, it’s going to be fantastic! ◆

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 49 CoLab = compelling education + discovering a coffee community + meeting new friends Barista Guild of Europe’s first CoLab event, held in collaboration with host partner Coffee Embassy, educational partner Tamper Tantrum and gold partner and espresso bar sponsor, Nuova Simonelli, took place in Prague earlier this year. RASHEL WINN recalls a weekend of education, discovery and friendship. Images: European Coffee Trip.

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First attendees gathering for coffee at Cafe Jedna

‘What's Prague like?’ certain themes were overheard: ‘You'll love it. It's beautiful and weird and dark, and sexy,’ he ‘Where are you from? What do you do in coffee? What do you replied. think of THIS coffee?’ I tried to picture it sometime later, waiting at the gate to leave ‘Have you had the sausages here? They're, like, everywhere!’ the crisp grey skies of Dublin for BGE's first CoLab event, nestled ‘Were you at camp? Are you going to the next one?’ ...‘So, in the heart of Bohemia. Thoughts of the city, however, were boat tour?’ secondary – my purpose was people-specific, and for them I'd The latter referred to the next event on our itinerary. After the have gone anywhere. last person had been checked in, the last lanyard handed out, Barista Guild of Europe is a group I'd become familiar with and the last cup downed, we were off to the docks. The river seven months prior, when they hosted Europe's first Barista was laced with boats, and as ours pulled out onto the water I Camp. ‘Work hard, play hard,’ described it perfectly, and by the was briefly dazed by Prague's dark, stunning beauty. This abated end of it my body was exhausted from the activities, my heart as we fell into animated talks over our new drinks (beers, this swollen with new friendships, and my mind tightly jammed with time around), before Kalle Freese took the mic to act as our tour new information and ideas to carry back from Greece. guide. I use ‘act’ in that he wasn't our tour guide. Feeling game, CoLab aimed to be similarly within the ideal trifecta of we went along with it, laughing, and by the time we had returned knowledge-activity-connections, minus the rigorous exams (for to land we were feeling giddy and ravenous. Most of us went on which I was grateful): just a full day of talks given by people on to dinner together, in a tavern off a winding, cobblestoned street. the frontiers of coffee development in various fields, sandwiched I had no idea where we were, or what the place was called. I still between half-days of culture and cafés. A flying visit. don't. But we were fed in the straightforward, no-frills fashion Thursday found me at Cafe Jedna, as attendees and event I'd quickly come to associate with Czech food before we then crew alike trickled in for registration, greetings old-and-new, ambled into the cool night, down more labyrinthine alleyways and our first coffees together. As our cluster of groups chatted, until our (smaller) group found a cocktail bar. The drinks were »

BGE Co-ordinator Isa Verschraegen at the registration desk Coffee Sponsor doubleshot's Jaroslav Tuček engaging in the discussion

CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 51 LEARNING

The afternoon panel discussion with Chris Hendon, Joanna Alm and Adam Neubauer and hosts Steve Leighton and Kalle Freese elegant. My companions funny and insightful. My bed (much) Adam Neubauer, a Prague local, spoke about psychology later – incredibly welcome. in coffee, social intelligence, and how we all benefit from making ourselves better, not just our coffee. ‘Most people will get what The Meat of the Event we're trying to do, and will wait [for that quality]. Communication Navigating Prague, via lost taxi, in the hurried morning that of possible wait times, especially with filter, is still important followed was none of the aforementioned descriptors. though.’ Regardless, just in time, the NTK came into view. This was Joanna Alm spoke about roasting, and her work at Drop where all the talks were happening, six in total, paired with Coffee. ‘We have so much science around brewing – I want us Tamper Tantrum for coverage and panel discussion. The meat to be more brave with espresso too.’ She added: ‘All the feedback of the event. I felt the tension from the taxi journey give way to we receive from our baristas is super welcome, and it helps us a giddiness as I greeted my new friends, grabbed a goodie-stuffed lot! Otherwise we're just in our own little bubble.’ tote bag and cup of much-needed filter coffee, and took a seat Christopher Hendon, our last speaker, discussed grind size, in the airy lecture hall. the Brazil Nut effect, and 'intruders'. On staying in coffee when Steve Leighton and Kalle greeted all of us. ‘This will most he goes for his post-grad at MIT: ‘I get a lot of emails about definitely be the geekiest Tamper Tantrum we've had so far,’ signature drinks. That's not going to change.’ On government Steve opened, and moments after we were fully immersed in the funding for coffee research: ‘There's a lot of pushback, but [there first presentation. At a glance, the six speakers seemed disparate, shouldn't be] – it's a problem that's more relatable, and affects but they were united in their shared passion for their work in most people every day.’ coffee, and the depths to which they explained their processes Steve and Kalle closed the session with a last panel discussion, (read: ‘geekiness’). and we were released for a few hours before the much- Chahan Yeretzian brought the nascent findings of his trials welcomed after-party was to happen back at Cafe Jedna. My with water, packaging, and how we can better preserve our mind felt it'd reached full capacity as it scrambled to hold on to coffee. ‘In a statistical sense, “a” number [for measuring sensory everything all at once. I scribbled down notes, my writing shaky quality] is nothing. You need a significant range [ex. 86 +/- with the excitement brimming from my body. I was inspired! 4, done by 3+ Q Graders]… There is no single molecule that It felt as if we were sharing in a preview of concepts that were specifically smells like coffee.’ about to move speciality coffee into its next stage. (I dare not Erna Tosberg, familiar to competing baristas and an say wave.) experienced one herself, posed the question of whether The party after was a bubbly, energetic buzz as we feasted, baristas really needed competitions at all. (We do.) ’I grew so drank (beers and liquors that night), danced, and dove into more much as a barista… For me, it was very important that I found detailed discussions about what we thought about what we'd the [competition] coffee before I built my presentation… If I heard earlier. I'll admit to being an unreliable narrator for this part could make a new rule, I wouldn't allow people who've judged – I remember laughing, loudly and often. I remember the feeling competitions to go back to competing!’ of wanting to work with all of these people, or to see them work, Tibor Varady, speaking more to newcomers to coffee listening and I remember finding my bed with the feeling of being fully to the Tamper Tantrum podcast later, spoke as a café owner satiated, as I had been at Barista Camp not long before. about what he looks for when hiring. ‘If you know that it is more difficult to get a consistent espresso than to pour latte art The Last Morning [you're on the right track]… Preparing for the world [Brewers Cup] I was still rubbing sleep from my eyes, but packed and prepared. championship was one of my best developments [in coffee].’ I strayed off the given itinerary of a walking tour in favour of When asked about employer/employee boundaries he said: meeting my (soon to be faraway) friends at EMA Espresso Bar ‘Don't think that because you're friends that you don't owe each and later at Doubleshot. The early summer sun refreshed me other that respect as workers.’ as I went to interview a couple of lovely coffee friends for the A panel discussion followed, then a lunch break to let the First Draft Coffee blog, bolstered by the last coffees I could talks soak in. We filed out of the hall, into the corridor outside manage before I was again, too soon, waiting at the gate to where a cupping of local coffees gave us a better sense of how return home. much speciality coffee had developed in this region of Europe. I ‘What'd you think – was it like I said? Did you love it?’ he asked. cupped. I shoved a sandwich and fistfuls of grapes and pastries I just grinned, my heart fuller than when it left, and nodded. ◆ into my mouth while I listened to my friends and speakers during this brief break. Another cup of filter. A refreshed return to the TAKE PART: The next CoLab will be held in Paris from 17-19 November. lecture hall for Round Two. Tickets are available now at baristaguildofeurope.com

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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 53 PERNILLA QjA OLOW-GARD da Matteo’s PERNILLA OLOW-GARD was heavily involved in bringing World of Coffee to Gothenburg, managing the project at a local level for SCAE. She gives an insight into the organisation of Europe’s greatest coffee event.

How did the job as Local Project Manager come about? I had been involved for a couple of years locally on the project to bring the show to Gothenburg. When we won the tender to host World of Coffee, SCAE reached out to me to see if I would be available to project manage it locally. I managed to free up some time in my normal job as Marketing Manager at da Matteo in Gothenburg and do this part time.

When did you start working on the project? I had been involved since early 2012, but started working on the project properly in April 2014, 14 months prior to the show.

What did it involve? Were you nervous before the show? As Local Project Manager I oversaw the promotion I would say I was more excited than nervous. Maybe in all Nordic countries, including establishing It was special a bit nervous about the weather forecast, as you relationships with trade associations, working can´t really trust the weather in Sweden. Sun just with the convention bureau on the city´s to be able to show makes everything so much more fun. We got a involvement, social events, identifying exhibitors bit of a mix in the end, which was OK! and sponsors and many more little details along off our city and country the way. How did it feel seeing all your plans come to colleagues from together when the show opened? What lessons did you learn in the role? I love that phase of a project when everything Staying on your project schedule is important for all over the world. comes together – plans turn into action and such a big event that involves so many different reality. It was great. aspects, so having that to look back at now and then was valuable. Also creating good relationships and What advice would you offer the team in Dublin and communication with the different stakeholders is obviously key other World of Coffee hosts in the future? as well. Establish good relationships with the convention bureau of the city, hotel and restaurant associations, and other organisations that take an interest in the show and can contribute. If the city comes together, it creates a much better event.

What did staging the Nordic World of Coffee mean for Gothenburg, Sweden and the Nordic region? World of Coffee was quite a big event for Gothenburg and the city was very proud to host it. The city is used to hosting big events but I heard so many people say World of Coffee was special. It was well organised and the crowd is a very passionate one. For the coffee community in Gothenburg and Sweden, but also the other Nordic countries, I believe it was very special to be able to show off your city and country to colleagues from all over the world. It also kept people on their toes having so many coffee professionals visit their cafés and roasteries. We established a great relationship with the Gothenburg Restaurant Association, and many of their restaurants offered special coffee experiences for the guests during the week. This was something that not only made the restaurants look at The SCAE Party, sponsored by BWT water+more, took place at Liseberg Amusement Park on a sunny night in Gothenburg the coffee they are serving but also highlighted their coffee for other diners. ◆

54 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA Shop with SCAE Get all your Coffee Diploma System reading materials and equipment from the SCAE Shop. Members receive 10% off.

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